Cinematographic Wai - Menavali_November 6, 2013
We had a "real" long Diwali Holidays to our Company - 9 days - long enough to make all others, JEALOUS ;-)
We could go inside its compound. On the left we could see a large open square. Two storeyed structure is seen. On the right however, condition is not good.
We could not enter the rooms. They open at 11.00 am. There are some old documents, antique items like wooden bed inside. The interiors of this Wada can be seen in the Hindi Movie Mrityudand.
We had reached here at 9.45 am. Hence we decided to skip interiors this time. I would visit sometime later again.
Just behind the Wada is the most picturesque location of this entire trip. Menavali Ghat (घाट) on the banks of River Krishna. Stepping here, a film buff would start recollecting scenes from Hindi movies like - Entry Scene of Singham, Climax of Gangaajal, Bol Bachchan, etc.
There are two temples - one of Lord Vishnu & other of Meneshwar (Lord Shiva). There is a bell house in front of Meneshwar which has a large bell with carving of Mary holding baby Jesus in her arms. It is made of five-alloys & said to be of 650 kgs. It was captured by Chimaji Appa (brother of Bajirao Peshwe - I) from Portuguese in Vasai.
The Shiv-Linga is located about 5-6 steps below. There is complete dark out there. I was not able to see anything at all. Somewhere in mind was a fear; don't know what is there inside. It was that dark. Carrying a torch inside is requested.
The photo above is taken blindly with just a camera flash. I tried 3 photos to get it right at the centre.
There is one very different sculpture. Nandi in front of Shiva Temple is mounted on a Tortoise back. It's a huge tortoise over Lotus shaped pond. All this made out of black stone.
During one day in a year, the day Lord Narasimha appeared as per Shaastras, the pond is filled-up with water. At that time, it might appear as if the tortoise is swimming on water surface.
The main temple is intricately carved. It is built over a platform, need to climb 3-4 steps. Below the steps there is a small window, through which one can see a water cistern. The priest told us, it is actually a pond; the temple is built over a water body.
Climbing the steps are three arches behind which is the Garbha-griha.
One form is of Ugra Roop (Angry Form), with Hiranyakashyapu (हिरण्यकश्यपु) lying on his thighs & Narasimha tearing his stomach with bare hands.
The other form is the Shanta Roop (Peaceful form).
There was another unique sculpture that I haven't seen anywhere yet. A Face Scuplture of Paandavas. Four faces are on the sides, facing outwards & fifth face is on top, facing the sky.
Looking at it, I felt as if its our answer to the USAs Mount Rushmore in South Dakota. And how old is Mount Rushmore? Only about 90 years!!! (it was built just recently in 1925). ;-)
We turned back till the dam-wall road. Climbed a bit on the wall and view was breathtaking.
Dhom Dam backwaters were in front of us with Kamalgad at the centre. I tried capturing the entire scene by 4 photo panorama above.
Exactly behind me is Paandavgad.
It was hardly 12 noon. And our planned places had finished. Now we were discussing another possible place. There was Limb-sheri near Satara (Baara Motaachi Vihir), Kaas-Bamnoli, Thoseghar, Panchgani. We decided to go to Panchgani (पाचगणी), have something at Mapros, visit few Points, have a lunch & return.
However, being Diwali holidays, there was mad rush. Heavy traffic jams in between. Mapros was jam-packed - inside and outside also. We dropped the idea & planned to go ahead to Mahabaleshwar. There was the same scene. Th road to Kates Point & Echo Point (which is really small) was packed due to traffic. We also dropped the idea of seeing any Points.
We had a lunch at a hotel near Mahabaleshwar market. Had a small stroll in the market post-lunch. By the time we decided to leave, the rush had started to increase. So we decided to go ahead via Poladpur in Konkan on NH-17 instead of turning back all through traffic jams. On the way is Fort Pratapgad. Hence it got added in our itinerary.
Pratapgad is that part of our history, for which each one of us are & should be proud of. It is a witness to the battle that was fought at its foot in the year 1659 - Battle of Pratapgad.
Adilshah of Bijapur had sent Afzal Khan to lead an assault against Shivaji Maharaj in order to curb the growing Maratha threat. Shivaji at that time was at Pratapgad. Afzal Khan therefore moved his forces towards here.
During peace-discussions between Shivaji & Afzal Khan, Khan made a life attempt on Shivaji. Shivaji was prepared for this & responded; killing Khan by a single stroke of Wagh-Nakhi. A battle erupted soon after ending with a decisive victory of Marathas over Adilshahi forces.
Afzal Khan was burried as per Islamic customs & a tomb built at the foothills. This was Shivaji's philosophy - "Once the enemy is dead, enmity is dead too".
This tomb was open to see earlier, but now due to a controversy, it is closed for tourists since past 7-8 years.
We ascended the Ambenali Ghat (अंबेनळी घाट) which connects Mahabaleshwar with Poladpur on NH-17. In between is a way on left towards Pratapgad. Fort is accessible by road. Spacious parking is available. However, people visiting are in so large numbers (due to Mahabaleshwar nearby), that the parking falls short now. Mostly on holidays, cars have to be parked on the sides of narrow road, which creates more traffic problems.
Fort from here is very easy to climb. Well-cut steps are there till the top. After the Main Entrance, comes the highlight of Pratapgad - Mahadwar Maachi or Afzal Maachi. Due to shortage of time, we could not see the entire fort. We went a little ahead to capture a snap of this Maachi & we turned back.
Above this Maachi is the Citadel which houses a Bhavani Mata Temple, Life-size statue of Shivaji. There are many sites to see on the fort. All these on my next visit. Guides are also available who can take you around the fort with some information.
We started our return journey from Pratapgad at around 5.15 pm. We went to Poladpur on NH-17 and joined the Varandha Ghat from Mahaad. Reached the NH-4 again at Kapurhol. We avoided traffic at Mahabaleshwar but landed in pathetic road on this Varandha route.
We reached back in Pune at 9.30 pm.
Odo Readings:
0 kms Padmavati, Pune
20 Khed Shivapur Toll
34 Kapurhole
71 Wai / Surur Phata (Exit)
84 Wai
88 Menavali
95 Dhom Dam
113 Panchgani
130 Mahabaleshwar
154 Pratapgad
180 Poladpur
193 Mahad
290 Khed Shivapur Toll
310 Padmavati, Pune
We colleagues decided to plan a one day trip after Diwali. Wai-Menavali-Dhom Dam was decided immediately.
We started off from Padmavati in Pune in a Santro at 6.30 am. We took the NH-4 (Pune-Bangalore Highway) - the new road bypassing Katraj Ghat.
By 8.30 am we were having breakfast at the Wai exit on NH-4. Wai from here is about 13 kms. Road is single lane, graced by large banyan trees on both sides. However, traffic is seen for obvious reasons - Mahabaleshwar & Panchgani, the most sought after Hill Stations for people Maharashtrians & Gujaratis of this side. Just before, there is a diversion towards Right for Wai Town from the main Mahabaleshwar Road.
We started off from Padmavati in Pune in a Santro at 6.30 am. We took the NH-4 (Pune-Bangalore Highway) - the new road bypassing Katraj Ghat.
By 8.30 am we were having breakfast at the Wai exit on NH-4. Wai from here is about 13 kms. Road is single lane, graced by large banyan trees on both sides. However, traffic is seen for obvious reasons - Mahabaleshwar & Panchgani, the most sought after Hill Stations for people Maharashtrians & Gujaratis of this side. Just before, there is a diversion towards Right for Wai Town from the main Mahabaleshwar Road.
Wai (वाई) is famous for its Maha-Ganapati Temple on the banks of River Krishna (कृष्णा नदी). Also called as Dholya Ganapati (ढोल्या गणपती) considering the size of the idol. It is HUGE. Carved out of single black stone along with a large back rest. It is beautifully painted. Photography inside is not allowed.
The temple was built in the year 1762.
Next to the Ganesh Temple is the Shiva Temple - Kashi-Vishweshwar. It is said that the Nandi here is made out of same stone from which Shiv-Linga is made.
By the side, some idols & a Shiv-Linga is kept in a make-shift area. These idols are actually from Ganakeshwar Temple, which got submerged below Dhom Dam (ढोम धरण) backwaters when the Dam was made operational.
But the beauty of this place lies 3 kms ahead. There is this place called Menavali (मेणवली) ahead on the same road from Wai. This is the place where Nana Phadnavis (नाना फडणवीस), one of the influential statesman of Peshwas (पेशवे), built a Wada (वाडा) on the banks of River Krishna. It's been 230 years since, that this place is still present to tell us the History. It must have been witness to many diplomatic discussion that Nana had while directing the affairs of Maratha Empire in the midst of internal disputes.
The temple was built in the year 1762.
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| Maha-Ganapati Temple of Wai - Dholya Ganapati |
By the side, some idols & a Shiv-Linga is kept in a make-shift area. These idols are actually from Ganakeshwar Temple, which got submerged below Dhom Dam (ढोम धरण) backwaters when the Dam was made operational.
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| Kashi-Vishweshwar Temple - Wai |
Next to this Wada, is a tree with a massive trunk. Just see the photo, how tiny a human looks in front of it. A platform is constructed around it.
This tree & the parts of Wada were seen in the Hindi movie Swades - The Panchayat Scene.
The Wada by itself is in a fairly good condition. Some areas are delapidated though. Descendants of Nana Phadnavis own this property, its items & the Ghat behind. There was family staying by the side; they might be the family of the watchman there.
This tree & the parts of Wada were seen in the Hindi movie Swades - The Panchayat Scene.
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| Menavali - Nana Phadnavis Wada - Outsides |
We could go inside its compound. On the left we could see a large open square. Two storeyed structure is seen. On the right however, condition is not good.
We could not enter the rooms. They open at 11.00 am. There are some old documents, antique items like wooden bed inside. The interiors of this Wada can be seen in the Hindi Movie Mrityudand.
We had reached here at 9.45 am. Hence we decided to skip interiors this time. I would visit sometime later again.
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| Menavali - Nana Phadnavis Wada - Insides |
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| Information Board - Nana Phadnavis Wada |
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| Menavali Ghat (Krishna River) |
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| Ghanta-ghar |
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| Meneshwar Mahadev Temple (with Ghanta-ghar - Bell House in front) |
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| Meneshwar Mahadev - Shiv Linga |
The photo above is taken blindly with just a camera flash. I tried 3 photos to get it right at the centre.
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| Climax of movie Gangaajal shot here |
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| Village kids posing near two Nandis left there out of some film shooting |
It was about 10.45 am when we left for Dhom Dam. Another 6-7 kms from Menavali starts the Dhom Dam wall. Need to pass ahead of Dhom village. But before the dam, there is another piece of our glorious history. Dhomeshwar Mahadev & Laxmi-Narasimha Temple.
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| Dhomeshwar Mahadev & Laxmi-Narasimha Temple - Entrance |
Once reaching the road at the base of earthen dam wall, take a left and again a left to road that descends down within the trees. Signboards for Laxmi-Narasimha are available from Dhom village.
It is a complex that houses two temples - Dhomeshwar Temple said to be from the times of Paandavas AND Laxmi-Narasimha Temple built by the Peshwas. |
| Master Sculpture @ Dhomeshwar Mahadev Temple (Nandi on Tortoise back in a Lotus Pond) |
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| Dhomeshwar Mahadev |
Climbing the steps are three arches behind which is the Garbha-griha.
There is a Well beneath, opposite the temple (left side as you enter the main entrance - pictured above). Need to climb down 7-8 steps. Water from here flows out of a Go-mukh (गोमुख), about 30-50 meters away into a pond. However the area around that Go-mukh is not worth taking a photo even. Cleanliness drive of the water body is urgently required.
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| Dhomeshwar Mahadev - Temple Complex |
Opposite Shiva Temple on Left is a circular construction. It is the Laxmi-Narasimha Temple, built by the Peshwas. Unique here is that there are two idols of Laxmi-Narasimha back-to-back. Narasimha here is in its two forms, with Goddess Laxmi sitting on his left thigh.
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| Laxmi-Narasimha Temple |
The other form is the Shanta Roop (Peaceful form).
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| Narasimha - Ugra Roop |
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| Narasimha - Shanta Roop |
Looking at it, I felt as if its our answer to the USAs Mount Rushmore in South Dakota. And how old is Mount Rushmore? Only about 90 years!!! (it was built just recently in 1925). ;-)
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| Face Sculpture - Paandavas (2 faces are at the back) |
 |
| loved these colors |
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| Panorama - Dhom Dam (Kamalgad at the centre) |
Exactly behind me is Paandavgad.
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| Photographer in me awakens ... ;-) |
However, being Diwali holidays, there was mad rush. Heavy traffic jams in between. Mapros was jam-packed - inside and outside also. We dropped the idea & planned to go ahead to Mahabaleshwar. There was the same scene. Th road to Kates Point & Echo Point (which is really small) was packed due to traffic. We also dropped the idea of seeing any Points.
We had a lunch at a hotel near Mahabaleshwar market. Had a small stroll in the market post-lunch. By the time we decided to leave, the rush had started to increase. So we decided to go ahead via Poladpur in Konkan on NH-17 instead of turning back all through traffic jams. On the way is Fort Pratapgad. Hence it got added in our itinerary.
Pratapgad is that part of our history, for which each one of us are & should be proud of. It is a witness to the battle that was fought at its foot in the year 1659 - Battle of Pratapgad.
Adilshah of Bijapur had sent Afzal Khan to lead an assault against Shivaji Maharaj in order to curb the growing Maratha threat. Shivaji at that time was at Pratapgad. Afzal Khan therefore moved his forces towards here.
During peace-discussions between Shivaji & Afzal Khan, Khan made a life attempt on Shivaji. Shivaji was prepared for this & responded; killing Khan by a single stroke of Wagh-Nakhi. A battle erupted soon after ending with a decisive victory of Marathas over Adilshahi forces.
Afzal Khan was burried as per Islamic customs & a tomb built at the foothills. This was Shivaji's philosophy - "Once the enemy is dead, enmity is dead too".
This tomb was open to see earlier, but now due to a controversy, it is closed for tourists since past 7-8 years.
We ascended the Ambenali Ghat (अंबेनळी घाट) which connects Mahabaleshwar with Poladpur on NH-17. In between is a way on left towards Pratapgad. Fort is accessible by road. Spacious parking is available. However, people visiting are in so large numbers (due to Mahabaleshwar nearby), that the parking falls short now. Mostly on holidays, cars have to be parked on the sides of narrow road, which creates more traffic problems.
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| किल्ले प्रतापगड |
Above this Maachi is the Citadel which houses a Bhavani Mata Temple, Life-size statue of Shivaji. There are many sites to see on the fort. All these on my next visit. Guides are also available who can take you around the fort with some information.
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| Mahadwar Maachi (Afzal Maachi) - Afzal Khan's Tomb can be seen on the right |
We reached back in Pune at 9.30 pm.
Odo Readings:
0 kms Padmavati, Pune
20 Khed Shivapur Toll
34 Kapurhole
71 Wai / Surur Phata (Exit)
84 Wai
88 Menavali
95 Dhom Dam
113 Panchgani
130 Mahabaleshwar
154 Pratapgad
180 Poladpur
193 Mahad
290 Khed Shivapur Toll
310 Padmavati, Pune
Map:
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Beautiful writeup Kaustubh, very well written.
ReplyEnjoyed reading it.
would be a good reference if i have to do this trip.
Thank you.
Thank you Mama-shri... :-)
Nicely written.....
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An Epic Ride - Kanyakumari to Kashmir - November 2018
Me, with a friend, completed an epic bike ride covering entire India from Kanyakumari to Kashmir. Kiran had a plan in his mind and he pursued with me relentlessly to make it into a reality.
Our journey was from the Gushing Waves of the Tri-Sea at Kanyakumari to the Serene Waters of Dal Lake in Kashmir (Srinagar). These 4000 kms gave us the glimpse of India. We passed through 12 States, crossed about 29 Rivers, stayed in 7 cities / towns.
We must have passed from 100s of villages and towns; villages with unique, funny names. Names which identify the Regions. Names end with "Halli" in Karnataka, "Palli" in Tamil Nadu and "Patti" in Andhra / Telangana; with 'Pur' most common in North. There were funny names of villages in Punjab and Haryana -
A diversity that highlights India is its Food. Our experience to local cuisines started the moment we reached Kanyakumari. As we started to move Up North, Idli changed to Biryani and then to Paranthas & Rajma while Coffee changed to Tea, Lassi and finally Kahwa. We truly experienced the Taste Of India on those 4000 kms.
Another diversity is the religions, for which our country is renowned for - Kanyakumari has a Memorial dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, a Hindu Monk. Taj Mahal at Agra is a Jewel of Muslim Art in India. The Golden Temple is a holiest shrine for Sikhs - अठ सथ तीरथ (shrine of 68 pilgrimages).
All this while, what was continuously with us all the way was the NH-44, India's longest highway - the North-South Corridor of Golden Quadrilateral. It is also known as Kanyakumari-Srinagar Highway. The highway showed the level of development that have happened in the country. Complete highway is a 4 lane road with divider, made of tar. There is emergency telephone booth at every 300 meters. Truck lay-bye is available every 3-4 kms. Signage in English & a Local Language are provided. We crossed about 46 Toll Booths all the way; for us however, it was Toll Free journey, being on 2-Wheeler. Our ride through this Road took us a bit closer to the our Country and its People. We watched a lot from the seat of our bikes all those days - People, Villages, Nature, Development.
After some detailed planning of the route and possible stops, we decided our visit dates coinciding with Diwali in November to manage office leaves. Flight tickets were booked from Pune to Trivandrum and Jammu to Pune. About 10 days were marked for the trip with actual 6 riding days. 1-2 days were kept as buffer. Actually, we were planning to explore to Gurez Valley in Kashmir, which we cancelled later considering snowfall and road closure news.
We transported our bikes by train till Kanyakumari. And then the day came, after which we were going to attempt something, not many have done. On the midnight of November 7, 2018 we had our flight to Trivandrum with a lay-over in Bangalore. With some brief rest at Bangalore Airport Lounge and very early morning breakfast at 4 am, we reached Trivandrum at 7 am. We took a State Transport Bus for Nagarcoil and another one to Kanyakumari. We reached Railway Station by around 12 noon. We took our bikes into our custody and then searched for a hotel.
In the evening we ventured off for local sight-seeing. Vivekananda Rock Memorial being highlight of Kanyakumari, we went to see this first.
One needs to go by a Boat; return fare is taken at the window. Takes about 10 mins. to reach the Rock. The Rock is an island in a Tri-Sea - confluence of three Seas of Indian Peninsula, The Indian Ocean, The Bay of Bengal and The Arabian Sea. Swami Vivekananda is said to have achieved enlightenment on this Rock. A Dhyana Mandapam is erected which is the Memorial dedicated to Swami-ji. There is his life-size statue inside. Apart from memorial, there is a Temple dedicated to Goddess Kumari, where her foot-print is believed to have impression on the rock.
We were at the bottom-most point of the Indian Peninsula.
On a small island by the side is a Statue of Thiruvalluvar, a Tamil Poet and Philosopher. It is comparatively a recent development, unveiled on January 1, 2000.
Then we went on to see the Gandhi Mandapam, a place where Mahatma Gandhi's ashes were kept in an urn for public viewing before immersing them into the Tri-Sea.
From here, we went to a place from where the NH-44 starts. Start of a road from lower most point of India.
We started off by around 5.45 am. The night we spent with some fear and apprehension. It rained heavily at 9 pm; and that made us worried. It was something we were trying to achieve and were not sure whether we can do it and then these rains...
Morning, however, was clear. Slightly foggy and cool, but clear. In no time we touched the mighty NH-44 and started to move in dark and humid environment. As the dawn started to light up, at distance we could see the wind-mills rotating. by within 2 hours by 7 am, we were drinking coffee at Thirunelveli, some 90 kms away. And that was awesome covering of distance. The road was clear, not much traffic. The coffee was so awesome that we had double cups, actually glasses.
By 9.15 we reached Madurai and stopped for a breakfast, obviously Idli and Wada, being in South India.
With some brief Tea stop at Karur, we reached Salem at 2 pm for Lunch. This time it was South Indian Meals.
By 5 PM, we were at the outskirts of Bangalore. It took us about 11 hours to cover 700 kms. And it took further 3 more hours to cover 40 kms; thanks to Bangalore traffic. We decided to cross City and stop ahead since we had some time in hand. This could save our morning time next day. We stayed at a place called Devanhalli.
This was unbelievable for me. We covered 737 kms in a day; and that was all time high, so far. This ride made me confident that this is achievable; we can complete the #k2kride and make history for ourselves.
Till today morning when we cranked our Engines, I was not sure about completion of this feat. But when we hit the road and cruised effortlessly till Thirunelveli, my confidence started building up.
Route: Kanyakumari - Thirunelveli - Madurai - Salem - Hosur - Bangalore - Devanhalli
Kms covered: 737
From Tamil Nadu we crossed in Karnataka after Hosur.
Day-2, With confidence this time:
After quick tea below our lodge, we started for onward ride; it was 6 am. Climate was still so-so... not too hot, not much chilly. Immediately we crossed in AP. Little ahead, there was a road to Puttaparthi, birthplace of Satya Sai Baba.
Next big city was Ananthapur. On the way we saw huge project of Kia Motors. Being a Korean company, lot many Korean Officials and Workers must have been here; even the road signs, advertisements, names of hotels and home-stays were written in Korean language. We even saw a board of Korean Town-ship. This was something new for us, completely unknown.
We had a breakfast here.
Somewhere near Gooty (between Ananthapur and Kurnool) we found our first signboard for Srinagar, our target of the ride. It was still 2646 kms ahead. This was first of the wish - capturing the first milestone that mentions distance of our target, Srinagar.
By 3 pm, we reached outskirts of Hyderabad. And we made a mistake here. Our Google Maps showed us to take a left turn and we landed on to Nehru Outer Ring Road (ORR). Awesome road, 4 laned each side... terrific riding experience. But only one problem, 2-Wheeler is not allowed :-(
Somehow, we managed to get out of it and went through the Hyderabad city, wasting almost an hour's time. By 4 pm we had our lunch that day. Today was the day for a change in cuisine - from Idli, Wada, Dosa to lip-smacking Biryani. We had it at A1 Green Bawarchi Restaurant, Secunderabad.
Our stop for the day was 100 kms away at Kamareddy. We reached by about 7 pm and got ourselves accommodated in a lodge near Bus Stand.
Route: Devanhalli - Anantapur - Kurnool - Mahbubnagar - Hyderabad - Kamareddy
Kms covered: 697 for the day ; 1434 total
From Karnataka we crossed into Andhra Pradesh and then to Telangana.
Day-3, Marching towards half-way:
We started ahead after tea again. Cold was felt for the first time today. Some distance ahead and we were blessed with an awesome view of the ride.
By 8 we reached near Maharashtra border. We had our breakfast here - Parantha-Sabji and Chai for the first time.
Just while we were crossing into Maharashtra, we came across our first diversion on NH-44 due to some road construction work. This was awesome, because this was after whopping 1600 kms from where we started.
Lunch was planned at Kiran's friend's house in Nagpur. After sumptuous homemade Punjabi lunch, we marched ahead immediately to save time.
As we were moving ahead, out of Nagpur city, there was this single laned road. We were waiting for a double lane road, our regular NH-44. Couple of ghats also came. For next 4 hours we continued driving on this road, thinking it to be our NH-44, waiting for a bigger, better and double laned road to come. With this we reached Narsingpur at 7 pm. This time we got a better hotel compared to lodges last two nights. Into our rooms we figured out what went wrong. We had made another mistake while coming out of Nagpur. We missed some turns or road; and hence instead of joining the NH-44, we took to NH-47. Lucky for us that both these roads pass from Narsingpur; hence we reached our planned destination for the day.
A caveat: Distance from both these roads is almost same. NH-44 has so far been the big road with 2 lanes and a divider while NH-47 was single laned narrow road, not plain enough and also had couple of ghats. Still Google Maps was showing NH-47 as the best route when we had checked 3-4 times in between.
Route: Kamareddy - Adilabad - Nagpur - Chhindwara - Narsingpur
Kms covered: 658 for the day ; 2092 total
From Telangana we reached into Madhya Pradesh, passing through Maharashtra.
Day-4, Winter Is Coming!!!
This was our most chilly ride so far. Gradually as we were cruising North, we felt drop in temperature; and this felt terrible during early morning rides.
We started from our hotel by searching direction for NH-44 on Google Maps. We didn't want to miss again this time. Once we joined, we started cruising ahead. Chill in the air was taking its toll; we were longing to wait for some hot tea & some warm fire. But we carried on for an hour and then stopped at a road side tea-shop.
Again after 2 hours, we broke for breakfast at Sagar. From here we reached Jhansi at 12.30 pm. Here we took a break for 30 mins. Reason was to tighten the chain of my bike. It loosened and was creating noise. But we figured out that nothing much can be done; unless replacement. We could not afford that now, time wise. Hence with some adjustment, we started ahead. I was terribly excited being entering Jhansi for the first time. Actually, I wanted to spend some time & explore this land of Rani Laxmibai. But, we didn't had time. As we entered Jhansi, I was trying to captured some glimpse of a monument or a fort of the bygone era. However, I could see a statue of the Queen on the other side of the road. This was the only memory that I could capture of Jhansi. Sad, it deserved more. This was my second wish - could not be fulfilled fully.
As we crossed Jhansi, next couple of hours were the most boring period of our ride. A long stretch (about 60 kms) of the road was under construction. There were multiple diversions, dusty roads, roads going through crowded market place due to lack of a fly-over or a bypass, single lane functioning, etc.
As we crossed Dabra, we had our lunch for the day. It was awesome; the North Indian meals of Roti / Naan and Paneer Sabji / Dal.
Then came another Royal Capital, Gwalior. As we were bypassing through the city, I was trying to catch a glimpse of Gwalior Fort. But to no vain.
As Morena passed, another renowned place came by. I was eager to capture it as well. The infamous Chambal Valley. Though now it is perfectly safe, one could imagine how terrifying it would have been with all Burglar Gangs active in here (e.g. Phoolan Devi).
By 7 pm we reached Agra. It took little bit of searching for hotel; however, we did get a good deal.
Our plan was to reach Agra by 5 and try to visit Taj Mahal the same day. However, now we decided to visit next morning. We wanted to avoid this so that we could start on time and reach Amritsar on time.
Route: Narsingpur - Sagar - Jhansi - Gwalior - Morena - Agra
Kms covered: 608 for the day ; 2700 total
From Madhya Pradesh we reached into Uttar Pradesh, with multiple crossings between Rajasthan, MP and UP.
Yesterday, we were discussing the possibility of visiting The Taj. We missed the chance to visit yesterday due to our delay. Now, if we had to visit next morning, we can go there only after 6 am, as it opens for public at that time. This means our onward ride delays. So far we had ensure that we are hitting the road before 6.
By 5.45 am we were already at the queue for entry. This was a unique sight. Number of foreigners were overwhelmingly more than the Indians. Indians must have been sleeping underneath heavy blanket on that cold morning :-)
They opened the gates 5 mins early and we entered. Crossing past the Main Gate, we spent about 15 mins there - watching the beauty coming to light in that morning rays. This was the first time since my previous 2 visits, I watched the Taj with minimal crowd in my frame. Actually, there was nobody on the platform.
From here we rushed back. But not without spending some time at the Statue of Shivaji Maharaj. This was my 3rd wish since we planned this trip. In front of the main gate of Agra Fort, an equestrian statue of the Maratha King has been installed. Uniqueness about this is that it is facing the Fort in attacking stance. This is to commemorate his escape from the prison of Aurangzeb, considered by many as humiliation to the Mughal Empire.
It was a moment of pride for us to watch this befitting memorial of our King in a distant land, 1000s of kms away.
We came back to hotel by 7 am. After tying our bags on bikes and other formalities, we were good to go by 7.30; about 1.5 hours late that our usual standard time. However, this was already considered.
We rode towards Mathura and just before Haryana-UP border stopped for some breakfast - Gulshan Dhaba Murthal wala.
As we approached Delhi NCR, before Faridabad, we came across a large bypass equivalent to an Expressway. Some enquiry and came to know this to be Western Peripheral Expressway (or Kundali-Manesar-Palwal Expressway). We saw some bikes going over it. However, we had the Nehru ORR (Hyderabad) experience back of our minds. We confirmed with 2-3 drivers and bikers. They said since the Expressway is newly constructed and official inauguration is not yet done, bikes can use it (it is actually not allowed for 2-wheelers); however, they told this is the longer way. Passing through city would be a better option.
However, seeing the awesome road in front of us and chance to ride here, we decided to go through it, letting it be a long route. We were intercepted by Delhi Police though. However, they enquired about our ride, were impressed learning that we are riding from Kanyakumari and hence let us go wishing us. :-)
And what a ride it was!!! 150 kms of Expressway; almost 2.5 hours of ride; not a soul in between... The weather was cloudy and also foggy. The ride cost us about 50 kms more than the Delhi City road; but all the way, it was worth it.
We joined the NH-44 at Kundali Naka - the Delhi-Haryana Border. We had our lunch at Pahalwan Dhaba near Sonipat.
With a short tea break at Singh Vaishno Dhaba near Sirhind, it took us 7 pm to reach Ludhiana. Amritsar was still 150 kms ahead and it would be getting dark soon. We had an option to stay at Jalandhar (60 kms more) and again start off to Amritsar next morning; or stretch some more and directly reach Amritsar. This would help us toil hard today, but enjoy full rest tomorrow (save us from getting up early and start off in the morning). This would also save our time in hotel search at another place.
From Jalandhar, we moved away from NH-44 for connecting to Amritsar. By 10 pm, we reached Amritsar. Reached near Bus Stand and searched out a decent hotel - Paras Regency.
Kms covered: 723 for the day ; 3423 total
From Uttar Pradesh we crossed into Delhi, Haryana and then into Punjab.
Today was our rest day and the day of sight-seeing. The only day allocated fully for roaming around. No time-bound target for the day.
We got up late, got ready lazily and then started off for the highlight of Amritsar - Harmandir Saheb, most famous as The Golden Temple. This is by far the holiest shrine for Sikhs. Recognized as अठ सथ तीरथ (shrine of 68 pilgrimages). It is also referred as Darbar Saheb.
The Golden Temple is the Gurudwara built in-between a man-made pool of water. It was built by the 4th Guru of Sikhs, Guru Ram Das in 1577. The 5th Guru, Guru Arjan, placed a copy of Adi Granth Saheb in 1604. For next 150 years it was persecuted by Muslim armies many times; however rebuilt repeatedly by the Sikhs. The present day structure was built in 1764-1776. In the start of 18th century, Maharaja Ranjit Singh laid it's present marble structure and overlaid the sanctum with Gold foil. Hence the name.
The Gurudwara Complex is nominated as as the World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Apart from Gurudwara and the Water-pool, the Complex houses Akal Takht (center of religious authority), Clock Tower, place for Langar & Offices of Gurudwara Committee.
Golden Temple is open for worship for all men & women from any faith, religion and walks of life. Only binding is the head to be covered with a cloth (can be a handkerchief or a dupatta). About 100,000 people visit here daily.
Road towards the Golden Temple is very narrow from Bus Stand. There is a flyover going over this narrow road, making this even more congested. It felt as if the structure like this deserves a better access.
As we proceed ahead, there is a large square with a huge statue of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh in the center. From here there is a sudden change in surroundings. The street is well laid. Statues displaying Punjabi and Sikh culture attract you. Shops are well lined-up with names and hoardings in same format / template; whether it's McDonald's or a local Lassi-wala.
Jalianwala Baug is just next to the Golden Temple. However, we didn't had much time as Attari Border was lined-up next. Hence after a glass full of Amritsari Lassi, we marched into the Temple Complex.
After some photo-ops, we marched for the darshan. However, this took lot of time. We had not considered this. It took us almost an hour to complete the darshan. By 1 pm we reached back to our hotel.
Next was the Lowering of Flags Ceremony (some call it as Beating Retreat) at Attari Border. Actual ceremony started at 5 pm; however we were told that crowd starts appearing from 2 pm onwards in order to capture better sitting position.
However, rush in Golden Temple delayed our visit plan. We started from our hotel by 1.15 pm. We decided to ride on our bikes. This was highlight of our ride. A sense of pride filled inside us as we were riding on the Grand Trunk Road, the road that crosses border into Pakistan. Attari Border is about 29 kms from Amritsar. On the way we stopped for a while to get our vehicles washed. In order to avoid time loss, we skipped our lunch.
As we drove our sparkling bikes ahead, came my 4th wish - to capture a snap in front of signboard / milestone mentioning Lahore.
And a km prior to Attari Border, we were greeted by the massive Tri-color waving hard. That was a sight to watch. At the same time a Delhi-Lahore Bus passed ahead of us; it did had some security and pilot vehicles.
After parking our bikes, we entered inside through the huge "Swarna Jayanti Dwar". The Grand Trunk Roads goes into Pakistan through the Zero Line. On both side of the Line are the Gates of India and Pakistan which were closed. On both side of the Road were the Stands / Viewing Gallery. It was huge at the Indian side. At Pakistani side, they were much less in comparison. On their side also, Pakistani flag was fluttering on a high pole.
BSF Officers were hosting the event. Cheering the crowds, making them dance to the tune. He called in the kids on the road. They were given Indian flags and were told to run towards the Zero Line. They he called upon the women folk. Gradually, this number rose to more than 200 women and children dancing & celebrating on the road.
A large Tri-color was being moved through the crowd and people were getting excited to let the Flag pass over them.
There is one caveat: no abusing of other country is allowed. All you can cheer are the three slogans only - वन्दे मातरम, भारत माता की जय and हिंदुस्तान ज़िंदाबाद.
2 hours passed in no time, enjoying this fervor. Lowering of Flags Ceremony started at 5 pm. The parade that happens on both sides is a sight to cherish. The way they walk, raise their legs as high as possible (even above their foreheads), display their coordinated manoeuvres as they march rapidly towards the border, their mannerisms displaying aggression through expressions and hand-postures, and a lot more is a view to watch. And all this with a thunder of cheer from the crowd at the back.
As the Sun starts to set, Gates are opened. Flags on both sides are lowered slowly with a background of Bugle. Flags waving in the area (even the Army & BSF Flags) also are lowered. The Flags are then properly folded and are carried back in full honors by the respective Officers; to be brought back next morning. With a brief hand-shake between Jawans at the Zero Line, Gates are closed. This ends the ceremony.
A thing to mention that BSF Officers also had a visible presence of Lady Officers in this Ceremony. And that is quiet remarkable.
While the ceremony was on, suddenly it started to rain. It was brief, but it was heavy. The crowd suddenly started running for cover. The front row stands became empty suddenly. However on the field, Ceremony was still on. The rains didn't hamper the routine of these Officers on duty ... RESPECT!!!
After the end, we started for our return journey. Though rains had stopped, it brought the chill in the air. We didn't had any protection gear, except our helmet. This was getting very cold. The wet roads were resulting to spraying of muddy water wetting us and our bikes dirty. Clean, sparkling bike which we did at the washing centre, now again came to its previous, even worse condition.
Route: Amritsar - Attari - Amritsar (with local riding)
Kms covered: 70 for the day ; 3493 total
Today's was an exciting day for us; our final lap. We were to achieve our goal; realize our dream. However, today's was the hard ride. So far we traveled through the 4 laned highway, plain tar road. This was not going to be the same. Distance to travel was least today, however road was supposed to a 200 kms ghat section with single lane and possible traffic jams and / closures. We had traveled through this twice before - first in a taxi for Vaishnodevi-Srinagar Trip and then a bike ride to Ladakh. There were some news coming earlier about possible closure of highway due to snowfall and landslides. Hence we planned to start as early as 4 am.
However, we got up from sleep late and started off by 5.30 am. After a quick tea, we moved ahead. By 7.30 we reached Pathankot, the last big town in Punjab. Stopped for a tea-break. Climate was very cold. It was really difficult to keep riding; but the target was in our sight. While tea was being made, we were warming ourselves at the gas stove.
Few kms ahead, we crossed in J&K at Lakhanpur. Technically, we achieved our target from Southernmost state of Tamil Nadu to the Northernmost state of Jammu & Kashmir. However, Kashmir was still 270 kms ahead.
We entered Jammu by 9 am. This was as per our plan. Now was uncertain time ahead. We knew till Udhampur (50 kms more) it was a good 4-lane highway. We were cruising over it enjoying the views and remembering our previous journeys over this highway. Last both times we had experienced traffic snarls near Udhampur town. However, this time we completely bypassed the town and were greeted with heavy construction work going on. This was a new development. Soon we realized the complete stretch between Udhampur and Jawahar Tunnel (Banihal) was being made into a 4-lane highway; and just to remind it is complete ghat section. After this happens, may be in next 4-5 years, the road between Kanyakumari to Srinagar would be a complete. And this is a WOW!!!
All across, construction work and tunnel work is going on. The road was dusty and full with pits with a valley running down and beauty of snow-capped mountains in the background.
About 30 kms of dirt riding from Udhampur, we came across another feather in the cap for India. An awesome master piece of developed India. The Chenani-Nashri (चनैनी-नाशरी) Tunnel - India's longest tunnel of 9.2 kms. This tunnel bypasses the traffic jams zone of the Patni Top (snowfall and landslide prone areas). This tunnel saves about 30 kms, equivalent 2 hours of travel-time. This has India's first Fully Integrated Tunnel Control System.
While the tunnel is a single lane road without separators for ongoing and incoming traffic, there is a separate tube running parallel to the main tunnel for full 9 kms which acts as an emergency exit (escape tunnel). Effective exhaust system ensures removal of vehicle gases. SOS telephone boxes are present. Tunnel is well under surveillance through CCTV Cameras. It has lay-bys at regular intervals to park the broken-down vehicles, which are then immediately towed away from the Escape Tube. It also has fire safety measures. In case of traffic violation by the vehicle drivers, vehicles are pulled-our by the traffic cops outside and fined; this is controlled with help from CCTV Cameras. Speed limit inside the tunnel for all vehicles is 50 kmph. Overtaking is not allowed; crossing into oncoming lane is prohibited.
As we came near the tunnel, we got it clarified whether 2-Wheelers are allowed inside; again our Nehru ORR experience ;-) and also, there were some mentions online that 2Ws are not allowed here. However, we got a confirmation from a J&K Police constable there. We even saw few other local bike commuters.
Within 10 minutes time we were on the other side of the tunnel; which otherwise could have taken 2 hours. Immediately came Peerah. Our regular hotspot for Rajma-Chawal. It was 1 pm and Srinagar was still about 150 kms ahead. Normally, we could have covered this in 1.5 hours; however, this type of terrain may very well take about 4-5 hours.
As we cruised ahead again, snow clad mountains were calling us. In our company were the rivers of the region - Tawi to start with near Jammu, now Chenaab and Jhelum would be coming soon once inside Kashmir.
We were sensing the cold. Since it was pitch afternoon with Sun shining bright, the cold was bearable. However, as we were going near the Valley, this was going to get bitter. We had witnessed rapid change in climate over the past 7 days.
While enjoying this drive for 3rd time in 3 years, we reached the Jawahar Tunnel (Banihal Pass). I was having goose-bumps within me. Our dream was just 2.5 kms away. Till 1 week ago, that one thing which we were working towards, which I always felt that I may not be able to complete, that 1 thing for which so much efforts were taken, was in our reach. Crossing this Jawahar Tunnel would land us into THE KASHMIR VALLEY. As I entered inside the darkness, I knew we had done it, well almost.
We came out of the Tunnel and entered the paradise. Kashmir was reached. Technically, we had completed the Kanyakumari to Kashmir Bike Ride. Now reaching Srinagar was just a logistic arrangement. It was 4 pm. We completed the journey in 77 riding hours.
As we were driving, I was feeling like we need to stop and congratulate each other. We did so on our bikes, waving hands, cheering, dancing, shouting. But actually waited couple of kms away at the Kashmir Viewpoint.
We parked our bikes, hugged each other. This was the moment. We actually completed our Dream Ride. This is not difficult, but it is definitely exhausting. And looking at the scope and range of travel distance, not many attempt it.
Now once we crossed through Jawahar Tunnel, we were atleast safe from road closures. Because next 90 kms now was a straight road. We could sense the changes since our previous visit 2.5 years ago. Road was complete 4-lane highway bypassing intermediate towns like Anantanag, Pampore, Awantipora, etc. Withing couple of hours, we reached Srinagar. Since we had loved our previous stay hotel, we decided to straightaway venture inside and grab a deal. With some searching, ofcourse, we found out of our hotel - Malik Palace, right across the Dal Lake.
Now was our time for a peaceful sleep and end of targets for good.
We had kept couple of days as reserved with 1 day for Gulmarg. We didn't encountered any delays on account of our health, bikes condition, any untoward mishap and traffic jam issues. Touch-wood. We reached at each of our daily destinations as decided. Hence now after next day sightseeing at Srinagar, we had two more days of free time. Our return flight was from Jammu on 19-Nov-18. Actually, as mentioned earlier, we had planned a ride till Gurez. But we decided to cancel it due to various uncertainties. And visit Gulmarg instead.
Route: Amritsar - Batala - Gurdaspur - Pathankot - Lakhanpur - Kathua - Jammu - Udhampur - Ramban - Banihal - Anantnag - Srinagar
Kms covered: 490 for the day ; 3983 total
From Punjab we crossed into Jammu & Kashmir, our target state.
After getting freshen-up we started for a walk on the Boulevard Road around the famous Dal Lake. It was really cold out there; we were feeling it inside our closed room also. The whole evening we were just soaking in the feeling about successful completion of out attempt. We actually created the history for ourselves.
1 comment:
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Shaniwar-Wada - Identity of Pune
Shaniwar-wada was the seat of Peshwas (Prime Minister) of Maratha Empire until 1818. Peshwas being de-facto leaders of Marathas this was the place which, in late 17th Century, virtually ruled entire India - well almost. Even Delhi was under the control of Marathas - दिल्लीचेही तख्त राखितो, महाराष्ट्र माझा (a Marathi song praising Maharashtra).
Shaniwar-wada witnessed the golden period of Maratha dynasty. From Cuttack (Orissa) till Attock (in present day Pakistan), from Northern banks of Sindhu (Indus River) to Southern banks of Cauvery, all was under Maratha control. This was time when Delhi (Red Fort), Burhanpur (Mughal Empire's gateway into Deccan), Golconda (Seat of the Nizams) and Aurangabad (Aurangazeb's base in Deccan), all had Saffron fluttering over them. Once a Power House of Maratha Empire, Shaniwar-wada also witnessed their fall - Peshwa Narayanrao was mercilessly killed in a conspiracy hatched by his uncle Raghunathrao; this happened within these walls, in 1818 Marathas lost the 3rd Anglo-Maratha War resulting into fall of Maratha Empire; Shaniwar-wada came under the control of British. Once a magnum-opus residence of its Prime Minister, was now converted to a Police Station and a Mental Hospital. In 1828, massive fire gutted down the entire structure. This inferno lasted for a week (Shaniwar-wada was burning for 7 days). It is believed that the fire started from a Kitchen of Mental Hospital. For next 100 years, the place remained in a dilapidated state. It was in 1921 when Prince of Wales was to visit India and in Pune, that the place was cleaned-up and remains of Mental Hospital were removed. I think we should thank the Prince for this, atleast today visitors won't see a Mental Hospital inside this heritage.
A dream of an official residence of the Peshwas was nurtured by Bajirao-I (Balaji Bajirao). His ambition was to take मराठी जरिपटका (the Saffron Flag) to rule entire India; and Red Fort (Delhi) ruled India during that time. This is the reason, Shaniwar-wada was built with its North facing Main Gate, called दिल्ली दरवाजा (Delhi Darwaza). It was very beautifully decorated / coloured. However, today slight impressions of these designs can seen, if observed carefully.
The bhoomi-poojan (ceremonial foundation) was done on January 10, 1730. It was a Saturday - hence the name (Shaniwar - Saturday; Wada - residential complex). It was completed in 1732. Initially Peshwa Bajirao-I had built small residential structure. It didn't had any fortification which we see today. Actually, they say Chhatrapati Shahu instructed to build fortification of Chest (Valour) & not from Stones (कोट छातीचे नाही, तर मातीचे करा). Over the years Shaniwar-wada grew & developed to a strong bastion.
Peshwa Bajirao-I's son, Peshwa Nanasaheb, is the architect of Shaniwar-wada what we see today. This was the Golden Era of Marathas. He built the stone fortification around the Wada. There are 5 gates and 9 bastions in this fortification.
Above Main Gate is the Nagar-Khana. Teak Wooden frames & arches are still intact here. Equestrian Statue of Peshwa Bajirao-I facing towards Delhi looks very awesome from here. On the opposite side, is the view of inner Gardens. On both sides of Nagar-Khana, there is an exit over the fortification walls. One can walk around the Wada over it.
There are well laid out boards explaining about name & importance of each place / buildings.
Buildings:
Apart from these, there are places like संध्येचा चौक (place to carry out a brahmin ritual), रहाटाचा बंगला (a Well to take out water in nearby), गोदुबाई चा निवास (separate residence for Peshwa Nanasaheb's brother's widow). There used to be a fountain below Ganesh Mahal and also a Water Tank (हौद) nearby which had a provision of making colorful lighting using colored glasses and water stream fell over them.
A Bastion at the South-East corner near Ganesh Darwaza, was called as खजिन्याचा बुरूज. The name because, below the bastion used to be water storage for usage inside Shaniwar Wada.
This is a sad state of affairs that the place which once ruled entire India, today lies in a dilapidated state. However, conditions are improving. Many people are visiting nowadays. A Sound, Light & Laser Show is also started. Heritage Walks do happen. The site is already in the itinerary of Pune Darshan bus service.
2 comments:
Thanks for sharing kaustubh.
Very well researched and written.
Go Goa!!! Ride - November 2017
Post our awesome Ladakh Ride, we were wanting to take another one. Goa was always in my mind as I had never been there; barring once when I was in school, & that should not be counted at all ;-)
After all basic bike preparations, we kicked-off from Pune at 6.30 in the morning. We had decided to take the NH-4 Highway till Kolhapur and then break away for NH-17 via Amboli ghat.
We were 5 of us with 5 bikes (Avenger, Classic, 2 Thunderbirds and a ST7). We decided a meet-up point near Narhe-Ambegaon and proceeded to our onward journey.
We took a breakfast stop at Hotel Virangula (before Satara). We covered approx. 80 kms in about 1.5 hours time. Thanks to no traffic due to a weekday. We had sumptuous breakfast of Misal-Pav and hot Tea.
After a short break at Karad (80 kms further ahead), we reached Kolhapur; our target for lunch for the day. We had a special Kolhapuri (Tambada-Pandhara) Lunch at Hotel Parakh. With a heavy stomach & much reluctance, we embarked for further ride.
We rode about 40 kms more on the NH-4. Entering Karnataka state, slightly ahead of Nipani there is a right turn towards Amboli, Sawantwadi & Goa. This is called as Goa Phata or the Goa Ves. Even there is a hotel by the name Goa Ves; and another as Kaveri.
This was our end to the Highway drive and what we entered was a rustic village setting and small roads. Again back into Maharashtra, we reached Amboli Ghat, leaving villages behind - Uttur, Ajara.
Amboli Ghat drive was awesome. Considering the rains that lash this area, the road was fairly good. Scenery around was beautiful. As we descended the Ghat, the road twirled through dense forest area. This was another experience ride of the day.
Next big town at the descend of the Ghat is Sawantwadi. Riding along a beautiful lake in the town centre was great. I was not knowing such a beautiful lake exists in between, called Moti Talao, which I came to know later. While riding by its side, I was getting a feeling of Mall Road in Nainital (though in a miniature way).
After Sawantwadi we joined the NH-17 (Mumbai-Goa Highway). We crossed into Goa state at Banda checkpost. Further, we actually should have exited before Pernem towards right for Vagator, which was our destination. We even enquired at that place. But we got wrong info. And we moved ahead till Mhapusa and Shivoli and then reached Vagator.
Actually we reached Goa by 6.30 pm. About 420 kms in 12 hours. But we took another hour or so reach our destination and to search a stay option.
We were able to find an Apartment at very cheap rate; being an off-season ofcourse. Two apartments of two rooms each for two nights - 3000 Rs.
Route: Pune-Satara-Kolhapur-Nipani-Amboli-Sawantwadi-Banda-Vagator (Goa)
Next two days were relaxed one's for us. Today was even better as we had nothing to day. Tomorrow, atleast we had to leave Goa in the afternoon.
After a lazy breakfast at a local restaurant, we visited the Vagator Beach. However, it was just a small beach but was rocky enough. There was nothing much to do. After a brief photo-op, we started for our planned destination of the day - Arambol Beach.
Arambol beach is beautiful & serene. It is said to be one of the best beaches of Goa. With shacks on its edge and clean white sand below, this was a great relaxation point for us. Being an off-season, it was not crowded. But whoever we saw here were mostly foreigners. Indians, though very few, started gathering a bit late.
On the beach, we had a small stroll, walking over the clean sand cutting through the waves. before relaxing into one of the shacks. These shacks are lined-up at the back provided a seating area facing the sea. There were Beach Beds lined-up in front.
Some amongst us went to the sea for a swim; I however, preferred to just sit and enjoy the place with a pint of beer and snacks. We spent the whole day there, with some add-ons of massage & tattoo in between.
By the time the sun moved towards west, the shack employees started to take back the Beach Beds; maybe they started their preparation for the night life. We found that crowd had also increased. While we left, we saw a person playing a guitar.
This was byfar one of the most relaxed vacations of my life. I "actually" did nothing the whole day.
Today, we had to leave Goa for Tarkarli. However, we had planned to visit Chapora Fort prior. But first we had breakfast, again at the same local restaurant.
The Fort is named on Chapora River to which it overlooks. Currently it is in ruins, however it was once very strategically important to Portuguese because of its location on northern boundary of Goa. These ruins still provide a very good landscape. And not forget the view it provides from top - Chapora River & beaches of Chapora, Anjuna & Vagator can be seen.
The Fort shot to fame due to the Hindi movie "Dil Chahata Hai", so much so that it is still known as "Dil Chahata Hai Fort".
Actually, there is nothing much to see on the fort. Runined fortification surrounds a flat land. However, the view this place provides is breath-taking. It would be even fruitful if you visit in the evenings; however the time mentioned here was upto 5:30 pm. In that case sun-set might be missed.
We spent some time here taking pictures and enjoying the view. Then we retreated to our apartment for final check-out.
We started off by 11 am approx. for Tarkarli. This time we took the right route directly reaching between Pernem & Banda on NH-17. We continued till ahead of Chouke; from here there is a left turn to Malvan.
Once in Malvan, we had a good Malvani lunch with Sol-kadhi. We reached Visava Resort at Tarkarli by 4.30 pm.
Route: Vagator (Goa)-Banda-Kudal-Dhamapur-Chouke-Malvan-Tarkarli
Morning we started off for Scuba Diving. Tarkarli coast is famous for Scuba Diving; one of the few locations in India. Others are in Goa, Andaman, Lakshadweep, Pondicherry, Karnataka.
About half an sailing and we were at the Sindhudurga. One-by-one, people go inside water after wearing all the related kit - weights, jacket & breathing apparatus. A trainer explains the working and gives a trial. Then he takes you down below. At Tarkarli, they take you about 8-10 feet.
Once inside, the environment is phenomenal. It seems as if a whole new world has opened-up. It feels very peaceful. The scene from the film "Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara" appears in front you; and the dialogue which the Heroine says, "Tumhari zindagi badalne wali hai".
Sunlight crossing through the vast expanse of blue water and colorful corals below of different shapes & sizes; colorful fish coming in between - it seemed as if live Nat Geo experience.
We returned to our hotels, got freshen-up and had lunch. By 3 pm we left Tarkarli for our return journey. We had planned a night halt at Kolhapur (about 160 kms via Gaganbavda). After some Cashew shopping, we made a move.
In between, we took a wrong turn before Kankavli and went on Phonda Ghat route instead of Gaganbawda Ghat. And the road ahead was pathetic. It reminded us our Ladakh ride :-) ... its a joke... But the road was bad, it started getting dark, it seemed as if there was forest around, traffic was minimal and the cimate was getting chilly. And over it, one of our riders octopus rope broke; hence we had to drive slowly & carefully. Finally, with all such hurdles, we reached Kolhapur by 9 pm.
Route: Tarkarli-Chouke-Kasal-Phonda Ghat-Radhanagari-Kolhapur
Today again it was a relaxed day. Our final ride back home. But not before Darshan of Ambabai (Mahalaxmi of Kolhapur).
In the morning we went at the temple followed by the Kolhapur Misal-pav.
Route: Kolhapur-Karad-Satara-Shirwal-Pune
1 comment:
Great. Its explaining over
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The Italian Job - February 2017
and Bridge of Sighs in between
(view from Grand Canal)
Created by Lorenzo Ghiberti, these took 27 years to complete (also 27 years to restore later). The doors depict scenes of 10 stories from New Testament.
Out of Sistine Chapel, we moved towards one of the greatest attractions of Vatican, the place for which Vatican is known & famous for – St. Peter’s Basilica. It is the largest, the richest & by far the spectacular church in the whole world. It is said to have been constructed over the tomb of St. Peter. The High Altar inside the Church is built right above where St. Peter is buried.
Over its top are lined 13 statues - 11 Apostles, Christ & John, the Baptist
Dome is designed by Michelangelo
There is one more archeological site near Colosseum, which was at one point the centre of Roman public life – Roman Forum (or just Forum). It is located between Palatine & Capitoline Hills. It was site where victory marches took place, public speeches & criminal trials happened. This is the place where people met & discuss; this is the reason why the online discussion places today are called Forum.
Ruins of Imperial Palaces on Palatine Hill in background
The fountain became an eminent attraction in Hollywood movie of 1950s, Three Coins In The Fountain. The movie had a plot where the three women characters throw coins in to the fountain waters to fulfill their wish to return to Rome. This movie made this coin throwing tale as a perpetual ritual for anyone visiting Trevi Fountain. Approx. 3000 Euros are collected in the fountain daily; these go to charity. It is a crime to steal coins thrown inside.
Rome, they say, was not built in a day & it can’t be seen in one either. Rome is a city best severed slowly like a glass of wine. And in case you miss something to see, toss a coin into Trevi Fountain for a guaranteed visit to Rome one more time.
Land Of The Royals - Mewar, Rajasthan - November 2016
This was an awesome experience. Trailing a Tiger for about half an hour, then spotting him & finally watching him for the next whole one hour. My previous two Safaris didn’t succeed in spotting a Tiger (Jim Corbett & Periyar). This time we were lucky.
Vijay Stambha is one structure which is one of the identities to Chittorgarh. This 9 storeyed Victory Monument was constructed by Rana Kumbha to celebrate his victory over Mahmud Khilji led armies of Malwa & Gujarat. The tower is dumb-bell shaped with narrowing in centre & spreading out at bottom & top. This type of design is unique for a tower. It is decorated with thousands of sculptures outside as well as inside.
4 comments:
Nice travelogue. I appreciate the account and photographs. Made me nostalgic. Good work, keep travelling.
ReplyThank you
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ReplyLand of Rajasthan is actually Royal.. When you travel around forts in Rajasthan you feel Royal and better..
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