Udaipur City Palace
Dominating the shore of Lake Pichola, the City Palace in Udaipur is enormous. The same can be said for the crowds of people that visit the Palace each day, so if you are staying in Udaipur try to get there early before the steady stream of coaches arrive.
If you enter the palace from the north (furthest away from the lake), you will first come to Manek Chowk, a large courtyard with shops and restaurants that offer views overlooking the city. Here you can also see the impressive multi-storey walls of the west side of the palace, with upper level balconies and carvings.
Stairs lead up to the entrance of the City Palace Museum, this isn’t a series of rooms with glass cases, the museum is effectively your tour around the palace. The route takes you through 17th century rooms and a series of pretty courtyards.
The oldest parts of the complex date back to 1567, when Maharana Udai Singh founded the city as the new capital of Mewar. The complex was subsequently added to by many rulers bringing a mix of architectural styles. About half the palace is now hotels, and the central part is a large museum.
This roundabout route eventually takes you to Moti Mahal, or Pearl Palace. Here the rooms are highly colourful with glass and mirror-work.
You should set aside a good couple of hours to see and appreciate the inside of the City Palace, and if you arrive after 11am be prepared to do battle with plenty of other people wanting to do the same. However, it is worth the effort – I have to admit a lot of the interior came as a surprise to me.
As the Palace complex is open until 10pm, it’s well worth returning to view the exterior at night. I’d also recommend taking a walk down to Gangaur Ghat, crossing the bridge nearby, and turn left to view the palace from across the lake. It’s a safe area to walk at night, and there’s also plenty of hotels and restaurants on this opposit shore that you can stop off at. I had my best Dal Makhani ever in one of them
The Palace complex is open daily 8am – 10pm, last entry inside is 4.30pm.
Mehrangarh Fort – The Exterior
“The splendours of a Palace that might have been built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun.”
This is how Rudyard Kipling described Mehrangarh fort when he visited Jodhpur in 1888, probably Rajasthan’s grandest and most visitor friendly fort.
Mehrangarh Fort also has one of the most imposing fortifications to be found anywhere in the world, the mammoth structure built high up on a hill dominates the landscape with 36m walls that tower over the busy city below.
It’s places like this that make me thankful SD cards are so cheap to buy these days. Pouring over the hundreds of photos I took in and around Mehrangarh fort, it’s clear that writing a single blog is not going to be enough to do this place justice.
So my account of Mehrangarh fort will be in two parts :
- Part 1 – The Exterior (this post). This will document what can be seen of the fort without entering the palace complex itself. Just as with Udaipur City Palace, there’s a lot you can see of the exterior of the fort without having to pay an entrance fee, and I spent a good couple of hours doing just that on the first day I arrived in Jodhpur, leaving a visit proper until the following day.
- Part 2 – The Interior. This will document what can be seen and experienced with your entry ticket.
There are two entrances to the fort, the primary one being at the NE extent of the fort which has a large car park and is how almost everyone approaches the fort. This will take you right by Jaswant Thada shortly before the car park which well worth a visit.
The second entrance is to the SW from the old city, if you’re staying in that part of Jodhpur it’s a much quieter approach, more on that later.
From the car park you walk along a board, paved pathway through seven pols (gates), always climbing uphill. The walls and architecture of the fort are incredibly impressive as you get up close to them for the first time.
Rao Jodha, the fifteenth chief of the Rathore clan, is credited with the origin of Jodhpur in India. He founded Jodhpur (previously known as Marwar) in 1459 , and just one year after his accession to the throne, Jodha decided to move his capital to the safer location of Jodhpur. The one thousand year old Mandore fort was no longer considered to provide sufficient security, and so Mehrangarh fort was constricted.
On the way passing through these gates there are couple of points of interest.
Before reaching Loha Pol look out for a red stone slab set into the wall. When Rao Jodha decided that Bhaurcheeria Hill should be the location for his fort, a saint by the name Cheeria Nathji was forced to move off the hill where he had lived all his life.
In response, the saint cursed Rao Jodha’s kingdom that it would always face drought. Rao Jodha established a new home and temple for him near the old city, but regardless the saint kept the curse in place. He then suggested that to appease the curse, a human sacrifice should be performed.
And so here is where it is said Raja Ram Meghwal was buried alive in the foundations of the fort. In return for his sacrifice, Raja Ram Meghwal was promised his family would be looked after by the Rathores. To this day his descendants still live in Raj Bagh, Raja Ram Meghwal’s Garden, an estate bequeathed to them by Jodha.
The walls around Jai Pol (Victory Gate) are scarred by marks made by cannon balls during a failed attempt by Jaipur forces to capture the fort in 1808. Sadly, these I failed to photograph !
Loha Pol, the final gate you pass under, houses wall plaques bearing the handprints in relief of women – wives, concubines and servants, who committed sati on the death of a maharaja. It is said that 6 queens and 58 concubines immolated themselves on Ajit Singh’s funeral pyre in 1724.
A little further along from Loha Pol is where you enter the interior of the fort proper. But that’s for another time, instead I continued on my exploration of the exterior of the palaces and courtyards, which in themselves are simply stunning.
There is no shortage of pretty balconies with intricate jali screens carved out of the pink, and sometimes yellow, sandstone.
Continuing on, I ended up on the eastern side of the fort walking along the massive walls housing numerous cannons and impressive views over the city of Jodhpur and Umaid Bhawan Palace.
Although the walls are tall, there are places where you can squeeze your camera through gaps to get that shot of the walls and city far down below.
After a short time you will reach the Chamunda Mataji Temple.
The Chamunda Mataji was Rao Jodha’s favorite goddess. He brought her idol from the old capital of Mandore in 1460 and installed her in Mehrangarh. She remains the Maharaja’s and the Royal Family’s Isht Devi or adopted goddess and is worshipped by most of Jodhpur’s citizens as well.
Sadly it is here on 30th September 2008 that human stampede occurred in which 249 people were killed and more than 400 injured. About 25,000 Hindu pilgrims were visiting the temple to mark the first day of the nine day long Navratri festival.
From here your only option is to turn around and head back, past the wonderful architecture that will be even more abundant when the palace interior is explored.
If you’re staying in the old city, there is an alternative gate to the SW that’s a shortcut. Note that entry if not permitted before 9am, and you need to be through this gate and exited the fort proper by 6pm.
It’s a pleasant alternative route to the fort, and removed from all the crowds using the car park by the main gate. If you are reaching Mehrangarh fort on foot from the old city, this would be my preferred route.
Mehrangarh Fort – The Interior
Make no mistake, Mehrangarh fort is absolutely huge. Anyone planning to see the fort for just a couple of hours is not going to do the place any justice at all.
I ended up spending more than two half days here, firstly exploring the exterior of the fort on the day I arrived in Jodhpur, and then the following day spending over 4 hours touring around the interior.
So my account of Mehrangarh fort is in two parts :
- Part 1 – The Exterior. This will document what can be seen of the fort without entering the palace complex itself. Just as with Udaipur City Palace, there’s a lot you can see of the exterior of the fort without having to pay an entrance fee.
- Part 2 – The Interior (this post). This will document what can be seen and experienced with your entry ticket.
It’s well worth taking of advantage of the audio guide that is provided when purchasing your entrance ticket. I’m not always a fan of these, but the one at Mehrangarh fort is probably the best I have experienced, and it really helps bring the place to life.
Shringar Chowk and Daulat Khana
Shringar Chowk is the first courtyard you come to. In one corner is a marble throne, where the new ruler of Jodhpur is presented to its people, the last being Gajaraj Singh II.
Immediately the quality and detail of the Jali work goes up a level from what can be seen on the exterior of the fort.
The Daulat Khana is a three storey building with arched openings on all levels. Built in early 18th century by Ajit Singh and known back then as Ajit Vilas, its present name literally means “Wealth Store” and is a term that is often used to indicate a treasury, but sometimes the most prestigious royal apartment. This room is now used for the display of some of the museum’s prize exhibits.
Howdah Room
In this room there is a wonderful collection of 18th and 19th century howdahs (seats for riding on elephants), decorated with some fine silver repousse work.
These elephant seats from the Royal Collection are regarded as the finest in the country. A priceless and unique historical Howdah is a silver one presented to the Maharaja Jaswant Singh I (1638-78) by the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan.
Palki Khana
Palanquins (litters) were a popular means of travel for royal and noble ladies up to the second quarter of the 20th century. They were also used by men on very special occasions.
This gallery displays one of the richest collections of palanquins in Rajasthan.
View just beyond Shringar Chowk
Before exploring too many more rooms in the fort, be sure to find an open platform just beyond Shringar Chowk that gives some wonderful views over the SW, including the old (blue) city, and Jaswant Thada.
I found quite a few visitors failed to go here, which is a shame as it offers some of the best views of the wider landscape possible from the fort.
Daulat Khana (Treasury)
Star of the show here is Mahadol, a golden palanquin that was a gift from the governor of Gujarat in 1730 A.D.
There are numerous display cabinets in this room, displaying items such as heavily decorated swords which perhaps were more ceremonial than functional at the time.
Mawar Paintings
In another room is a gallery displaying a large collection of miniature painting, and perhaps the finest collection of paintings from the Marwar School.
Court painting in Jodhpur developed greatly during 17th century through the association of Marwar Rulers with the Mughal Emperors. During the 18th and 19th centuries it evolved into a distinctive Rajasthani style, combining Mughal naturalism with local folk style and bold colours.
Jodhpur paintings later took on an even more exuberant turn under Maharaja Man Singh (1803-43), and dozens of paintings of the ruler, his nobles and his ladies were made.
Also housed here is an idol of the goddess Gangaur, one of the incarnations of Parvati. Gangaur is worshiped by married ladies for longevity of their husband’s life and my unmarried girls for a suitable match. This silver idol is dressed in traditional Rajasthani costume and jewelry from the 19th century.
This concludes the tour of the downstairs for now, and it’s time to gain some altitude…
Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors)
This was Maharaja Ajit Singh’s bed chamber, heavily decorated with mirror work.
Under the arches are painted gesso panels of sacred subjects: Brahma, Shiva with Parvati, Devi, Krishna and Ganesh all sit enthroned; while in other panels Krishna plays the flute and lifts mount Govardhan; and Rama and Sita confer with Hanuman.
Phool Mahal (Flower Palace)
This is a grand and highly ornamented reception room, constructed by Abhay Singh, son of Ajit Singh, in the mid 18th century.
This elevated room is less accessible and would not have been used for receiving outside visitors. It was probably intended as a private audience hall, where the ruler could confer with his confidants and perform certain personal rituals.
Being open to the breeze, the room could also have served for some leisure pursuits such as listening to music. The architectural style of the interior is derived from the palaces of Shah Jehan, although the outer casing with elaborate jaali work is typical of this part of Rajasthan.
The paintings of the columns and walls are original, but the ceiling and its cornice were repainted in the mid 19th century, in the reign of Takhat Singh.
Sileh Khana (Armoury)
This room housed numerous weapons. The room was packed with people, and I forgot to return to it, so sadly no photos !
Takhat Niwas
This has to be one of the most remarkable interiors in Rajasthan, and was the personal apartment of Takhat Singh (1843-1872).
It is an unusually large space: there is no need for supporting columns in the centre as the ceiling is carried on great wooden beams that are in turn supported by engaged piers and corbels on the side walls.
All the surfaces including the floor are painted. Even the windows are filled with coloured glass panes, creating quite an eerie light.
This is also a great location to get more views of the fort and the blue city from an elevated height.
From here the tour takes you through a couple of empty rooms and corridors and a small courtyard with yet more of that amazing carved jeli work.
Jhanki Mahal (Peeping Palace)
Situated on the upper floor of the north wing, from the Jhanki Mahal women could look down on the activities of the courtyard down below. The room now houses a collection of baby cradles.
Zenana Deodi (Palace of Women)
Quite rightly, the tour saves the most impressive architecture for the end of the tour. The small courtyard is surrounded by the most exquisite jali carved screens and balconies you could ever imagine seeing, in the lighter yellow sandstone.
This is also the oldest part of the palace complex.
Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace)
Moti Mahal takes its name from the quality of the lime plaster used, mixed with finely crushed shells, it give the surfaces of the room a pearl-like luster.
The five deep alcoves on the far side of the room look like decorative architectural features, but they are actually secret balconies. From here the Maharaja’s queens would sometimes sit and silently listen in on court proceedings.
Final Courtyard
The tour concludes in a final courtyard, with yet more wonderful carved architecture surrounding you. It’s a perfect spot to take a rest before moving on (shopping opportunities await you at the exit!).
There’s also some hidden gems in this courtyard if you take the time to find them, such as a painted door sitting in the corner with faded panel scenes.
And so concludes the tour of the interior of Mehrangarh Fort. The best time to visit the fort is almost certainly early morning, try and get here as the place opens up and you’re likely to avoid most of the crowds that start descending by about 10am.
The fort is open at 9am and the last tickets are sold at 5pm (but that only gives you an hour, far too short to see all of this !).
Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park
Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park on the outskirts of Jodhpur was created in 2006 to try and restore the natural ecology of a large, rocky wasteland next to Mehrangarh Fort.
Previous to 2006, the wide expanse of land had been neglected and overrun by baavlia (Prosopis juliflora), which is an invasive, thorny shrub introduced from central America almost a century ago.
The initial goal was to eradicate the baavlia and create a suitable home for native rock-loving plants that exist further out in the deserts of Rajasthan.
By 2008 the clearance of baavlia was complete, and the team had over 80 species growing in their nursery ready for planting. Nine years on and the ecological restoration is going from strength to strength, with the park now also attracting back wildlife. At the last count the park had nearly 150 species of bird, including over 30 winter visitors.
Clearly the best time to visit the park for flora and fauna is during and after the monsoon, and whilst I enjoy photographing nature my real interest in the park was the fantastic opportunities it presents for photographing Mehrangarh Fort and Jaswant Thada.
The park is split into two distinct areas…
South and West of Mehrangarh Fort
This is the main part of the park, entrance is via the visitors centre by Singhoria Pol on Fort Road and here you can walk three separate well signed trails (yellow, green and red). You can do these by yourself or with a guide, arranged at the visitors centre.
For photographing Mehrangarh Fort, the best time to visit is late afternoon as the sun enters the golden hour. With a little bit of elevation you can get some nice shots of the fort with Ranisar Lake in the foreground.
It is possible to walk through to Jodhpur old city from here via
Brahmpuri Gate or Ranisar Gate, and in the late afternoon it’s well
worth exploring Ranisar and Padmasar Lakes. These are adjacent lakes
constructed in 1459.
Ranisar Lake was built on the orders of Queen Jasmade Hadi, Rao Jodha’s wife while Padmasar Lake was ordered by Queen Padmini of Rao Ganga, daughter of Rana Sanga of Mewar.
South and West of Jaswant Thada
This area around Devkund Lake is slightly away from the main desert park. You still get your tickets from the main visitors centre but for this part of the park you have to be accompanied by a guide. It’s from here you can get that classic Jodhpur shot in the early morning with Jaswant Thada in front of Mehrangarh Fort.
If you want to try and get this shot, there are a few recommendations from having done it myself.
- Get your tickets in advance a couple of days before you intend to go. I tried contacting the park via email with no replies at all, so you really have to visit in person to make the arrangements.
- If you are going to walk through the main park to Jaswant Thada from the old city , which is only a 20 minute walk, don’t rely on Ranisar Gate being open. I was assured the gate would be open at 5.30am, but it wasn’t. Brahmpuri Gate was open (not sure if it’s ever locked), and you would be able to climb over this anyway. However, not far from the visitors centre there’s another gate when you walk through the city wall, and that too was locked. I was stranded there for 30 minutes and nearly missed sunrise. The guides assured me all the gates would be open at the time I would be walking through the park, but reality was not quite like that – not helped by navigating through the dark with packs of wild dogs interested in what I was up to. I strongly recommend you get to wherever you have arranged to meet your guide via a more conventional route, even if it means a super early start and a longer walk. Getting a tuk tuk at 5am might be a struggle of course, so plan well in advance !
- Make sure you have a torch, sturdy footwear, and extra clothing as the early mornings in Jodhpur can be surprisingly chilly !
Despite all the difficulties I had, and I confess quite a lot of frustrations I was harbouring inside me, it was well worth all the effort. It wasn’t the ideal “perfect shot” weather (no clouds!), but the guides are used to people doing this and they can take you up to the exact spots where that classic shot can be taken, which is right up beside and on the city wall.
On the way down there’s also a couple of decent spots right by Devkund Lake.
For all the effort to get there, the actual time shooting is next to nothing. Within 20 minutes I was done, it was just past 7am, and I had the rest of the day ahead of me.
Opening times for Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park are :
April to September – 7am to 6:30pm
October to March – 8am to 5:30pm
For more information, visit their website.
Jaswant Thada
Jaswant Thada (foreground)
Built by Maharaja Sardar Singh in 1899 in memory of his father, Maharaja Jaswant Singh II (the 33rd ruler of Jodhpur), Jaswant Thada is a cenotaph situated right by the approach road to Mehrangarh Fort.
Popularly referred to as the “Taj Mahal of Marwar”, the structure is an epitome of a Rajputana style of architecture. Built from intricately carved marble sheets, the polished stone exudes a warm glow when sunrays fall on it. The structure also has some beautiful carved marble lattice work.
The grounds feature carved gazebos, a tiered garden, and a small lake, as well as three other cenotaphs.
The surrounding landscape has thankfully not been developed, and is now part of the Rao Desert Rock Park which was established in 2006 to try and restore the natural ecology of the wasteland surrounding Jaswant Thada and Mehrangarh Fort.
It’s a welcome, peaceful spot after the hubbub of the city, and the views across to the fort and over the city are superb.
Ghantaghar Clock Tower
Meet Mohammad Iqbal…
Mohammad is the person behind the ticking of the Ghantaghar Clock Tower, one of the most famous landmarks in the centre of the new city in Jodhpur.
He and his ancestors have been maintaining the clock for nearly 50 years, since 1968. Mohammad’s maintenance of the clock started on 10th September, 2009. It is said that he and his son, Mohammad Shakeel, are the only people who know how to make the complex clock work.
For a few rupees you can climb the narrow staircase up to the clock mechanism, and possibly meet Mohammad.
Built by Maharaja Sardar Singh (1880-1911) from whom the market takes it name, the clock tower is in the very heart of Sardar Market, slap bang in the centre of the city.
It’s a useful anchor point from which to explore further afield in the city, you can always get back to the clock tower from wherever you end up.
The market is an interesting place to spend an hour or so, views of the fort are pretty good but no different from any number of rooftop restaurants in the area.
Mandore Gardens
Mandore is best known for the chattris memorialising the rulers of Marwar up until the late 1890s, but until the mid 15th century it was also the capital of Marwar.
From the car park you can enter Mandore Gardens (free) and within a couple of minutes wander among the chattris marking the cremation sites of the maharajas of Jodhpur.
Unlike most royal chattris which typically have open pavilions, almost all of those at Mandore resemble Hindu temples. Each one has a nameplate stating which maharaja it belongs to next to the steps leading into the building.
The most impressive of these structures is the chattri of Maharaja Ajit Singh (1679 – 1724), with an impressive domed roof and some elegant carvings.
Whilst this cluster of buildings is impressive, their setting is sadly not. Mandore Gardens is in a very poor state, littered with rubbish, dried up water features, and garden features rapidly turning to piles of rubble.
A recently review on TripAdvisor gives a good sense of it all :
“The place has a good garden, beautiful temples but is facing the apathy of government and the people. It is not at all maintained and the fountains have become swamps, gardens are full of weeds and looks like a place for drug peddlers”
I really wasn’t drawn to photograph any of the decay, so you won’t get a visual sense of it here. I really don’t quite understand why this has happened at Mandore, with a little investment it could easily become Jodhpur’s equivalent of Lodhi Gardens in Delhi, and clearly there was a time when attempts were made to do just that.
The historic buildings are under the maintenance of A.S.I., and they are in a great condition.
A short distance beyond the chattris is the Janana Palace. This was built by Maharaja Ajit Singh as summer residence for his queens. The complex is said to be an impressive example of 18th century architecture, but I’m afraid it didn’t really resonate with me.
Some of the rooms of the palace have been adapted as a museum displaying sculptures, inscriptions and decorative objects.
Well, you get the idea. To be honest it’s not really worth the entrance fee, it doesn’t appear as though anything has been changed here for over 30 years…
Next to the palace is the three storeyed Ek Thamba Mahal, also built by Maharaja Ajit Singh.
Just across the path from here is the Hall of Heroes, a much restored colonnade carved into the cliff face depicting images of gods and heroes.
Right next to this is a Hindu temple dedicated to 330,000,000 gods, which from my perspective seems to be geared almost solely at tourists – what little there were of them. I may be doing this place an injustice of course, by this time I was just about ready to leave.
Mandore Gardens is 6km north of Jodhpur on the road to Osian, so if you’re visiting Osian for the day from the city you can easily incorporate it into your plans.
It’s probably worth visiting for an hour or so, and if the local government actually paid this place some attention it could be worth staying for a whole lot longer.
Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra
Located just 5 minutes walk away from Toorji Ka Jhalra, Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra was the second step well I visited in Jodhpur.
This step well seems to be even further off the tourist radar, and I can’t find any information regarding its early history at all.
As with Toorji Ka Jhalra, until recently this step well was in a poor state. Neither of these monuments are under A.S.I. control it should be noted. The current relatively clean condition you’re likely to find the well is all thanks to Caron Pierre, a 70 year old Irish tourist who in 2015 set about cleaning up the well single handed.
Caron Pierre spent 5 – 7 hours every day for two weeks to complete the cleaning job, and clearly this has inspired locals to continue with the on-going maintenance. You can read an article about his efforts here.
The added bonus with this well is that it’s illuminated at night ! So if you’re staying in the centre of Jodhpur it’s well worth a quick visit one evening.
Also be sure to stop by Gulab Sagar at night, which is just a few meters away on the other side of the road. This is great location for photographing Mehrangarh Fort at night, incorporating the fort reflections on the water from the artificial lake.
Toorji Ka Jhalra
Toorji Ka Jhalra (Toorji’s Step Well) was built in Jodhpur the 1740s by a Queen, Maharaja Abhay Singh’s Consort, continuing an age old tradition that Royal women would build public water works.
As with all step wells, the steps follow the fluctuating water table down to provide easy all-year round access.
Interestingly this well was submerged and full of debris for decades. Only recently has it been drained, cleaned up and restored.
In the process, the excavations went down over two hundred feet to expose hand carved treasures in Jodhpur’s famous rose-red sandstone; including intricate carvings of dancing elephants, medieval lions and cow water-spouts, as well as niches housing deities long gone.
The well’s original system consisted of a Persian Wheel driven by a pair of bullocks circling the platform on top, which drew water up to two different access levels and a separate tank.
Interestingly, the Rajput Princess who funded the well hailed from Patan in Gujarat, home to one of the finest Step Wells in the country.
The whole area around the Toorji Ka Jhalra step well has undergone a bit of urban regeneration recently, under the auspices of a project called JDH, with vibrant shops, restaurants, hotels and cafes.
Even though Toorji Ka Jhalra is just a few hundred meters from the Clock Tower in Jodhpur, the step well still seems to be largely off the tourist map, which I was quite surprised about. I guess available time and the draw of the Mehrangarh fort prevents more visitors from coming here.
The best time to see the well is probably early morning, by midday it’s always frequented by children and some adults who enjoy having a dip and a dive into what must be extremely cool waters. It’s great to see the local community embracing this heritage monument once again.
The daily maintenance of the well is purely through volunteers, and they do a great job. The water must be pretty clean as there’s plenty of fish swimming around the tank, who of course get regularly fed by the locals.
Just 5 minutes walk from here is a second step well in Jodhpur, Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra.
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