Tuesday, October 3, 2023

Pune Attractions

 http://travelzunlimited.blogspot.com/2010/11/parvati-temple-pune-photo-feature.html

Sinhagad valley : A Photologue




Sinhagad valley lies at the foothills of Sinhagad fort near village Achkarwadi, dist Pune (30kms from Pune).




It is famous amongs bird watchers for a variety of birds seen in its vicinity like Asian paradise flycatcher , Rufous treepie , Ultramarine flycatcher, Black winged kite , Plum headed parakeet , Yellow throated sparrow (chestnut shouldered petronia) , Sunbirds , Spotted / laughing doves , babblers , Common , Jungle and bank  mynas, Oriental magpie and Indian robins, Green bee eaters , Red breasted flycatchers, Verditer flycatcher, Tickell's blue flycatcher, Red whiskered and Red vented Bulbuls  etc.


Photos :

Pic: Asian paradise flycatcher male
Pic: Asian paradise flycatcher male

Pic: Asian paradise flycatcher female

Pic: Asian paradise flycatcher female juvenile

Pic: Tickel's blue flycatcher

Pic: Rufous treepie



Pic: Black lored yellow tit bird

 
Pic: Black faced monkey
 Pic: Blue throated green bee eater

 Pic: Jungle babbler

 Pic: Grey babbler

 Pic: Jungle babbler

 Pic: Purple sunbird

 Pic: Indian robin female


Pic: Bank myna

 Pic: Spotted doves

Pic: Pond Heron

 Pic: Buzzard


 Pic: Chestnut shouldered petronia

 Pic: Plum headed parakeet female

Pic: Plum headed parakeet male

 Pic: Indian robin male
Pic: Indian robin female

Pic: Jungle Babbler

Pic: White spotted fantail

Pic: Plum headed parakeet female

 Pic: Coppersmith barbet


 Pic: brown flycatcher

  Pic: White throated kingfisher



Pic: Chestnut shouldered petronia (yellow throated sparrow)

Pic: Verditers flycatcher


Pic: Red breasted flycatcher


Pic: White eye


Pic: Tickell's blue flycatcher

Pic: Black winged kite

 Pic: calotes

Pic: spotted dove
Pic: Laughing Dove

Pic: Brahmini starling

Pic: Black kite


Pic: Paradise flycatcher male juvenile


Pic: Paradise flycatcher male


Text & Photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 

Birding at Dive ghat : A Photologue




Birds are also sighted near Dive ghat  (Pune Saswad route).


Directions:  After Dive ghat ends (going from Pune-20kms), take a right after Hotel Garwa. The bird trail begins.Travel alongside the farms till you reach Pilaji Jadhavrao farms which is restricted area. 


But outside its entrance, towards the right  one comes across a huge crater that once used to be a lake-talao (alongside is a dug up well). 


Birds seen: Green bee eater, black drongo, grey hornbill, larks,bay backed shrike, black kites, eurasian collared doves, laughing dove,hoopoe etc.



Photos:


 Pic: Bay backed shrike
 Pic: Black drongo
 Pic: Bramhini starling
 Pic: Eurasian collared dove

 Pic: Green bee eater
 Pic: Grey hornbill
 Pic: Bush lark

 Pic: Hoppoe
 Pic: Indian silverbill
 Pic: Lark
 Pic: Robin
 Pic: Wire tailed swallow
 Pic: Red wattled lapwing
Pic: Rufous tailed finch lark
 Pic: Jungle crow
 Pic: Black kite

Pic: Short toed eagle
 Pic: Laughing dove
 Pic: Bush lark
Pic: Bay backed shrike


Pic; Black Kite



Text and photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Kavdi paat : A Photologue




Kavdi paat is village situated on the banks of the Mula Mutha rivers. It is situated after Manjari village (Pune-Solapur highway). One passes Hadapsar. Then after crossing Manjari toll post (while going from Pune)  , one comes across the board of Kavdi-paat on the left. One has to take a turn inside alonside the board. Kavdi paat is around 3-5kms inside (after passing a small railway gate).




Despite its appealing natural beauty , the place is unfortunately not well maintained (used virtually as a dumping ground ). However despite this lacuna, it is still a favourite spot for bird lovers from in and around Pune, as it attracts a lot of wading birds like Rudy Shelduck, Northern Shoveller ducks, Coots,Spot billed ducks, Egrets, Cormorants , Common Sandpiper, Kingfishers ,White browed wagtail, Pied bushchat, Robin, Pipit, Green bee eater,Shrikes,Bulbuls etc.


Photos:

 Pic: Rudy Shelduck (l,r)
Pic: Rudy Shelduck
 Pic: Northern shoveller male
 Pic: Northern shoveller female
 Pic: Spot billed duck
 Pic: Egret
Pic: Cattle egret in birding plumage

Pic: Grey Heron

Pic: Pond Heron
Pic: White browed wagtail
 Pic: White browed wagtail
 Pic: common sandpiper
 Pic: common coot
Pic: Coot with Brown headed gull

 Pic: white browed wagtail
 Pic: Pied bushchat male
 Pic: green bee eater
 Pic: Paddyfield pipit
 Pic: Oriental magpie robin
Pic: Red wattled lapwing

 Pic: Long tailed shrike
Pic: White throated kingfisher

Pic: Yellow wagtail


Pic: River tern


Pic: Black winged stilt bird & River tern

Pic: Dragon fly
Pic: Indian jewel betel
Pic: Garden Lizard

Text & Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Khadakwasla lake : A Photologue




Khadawasla lake (across Khadakwasla dam) is another beautiful location for birdies . It is located enroute Sinhagad fort.


It attracts various birds like black winged kites, drongos, pipits, green bee eaters and waders like pond herons, cormorants, egrets, spot billed ducks, cotton teal, grebes, rudy shelducks, tufted ducks etc.


It is also a favourite destination for picnickers and photographers who want to catch a glimpse of the beautiful sunset across the lake.

Photos:



Pic: White throated kingfisher


 Pic: Spot billed ducks
 Pic: Common coot
 Pic: Egret


 Pic: Cormorant
Pic: Little Grebe
Pic: Cotton Teal
Pic: Tufted duck



Text and photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 

Vetal Tekdi : Photologue


Pic: stone quarry


Vetal Tekdi is a hill range lying in the heart of Pune, dividing its areas viz. Kothrud , Prabhat road, Chaturshrungi and Aundh. It is a favourite trekking destination for Punekars (young and old alike), many of whom frequent in the early morning and evenings.
The hill takes its name from the Vetal baba temple in its vicinity. There is also a Hanuman temple in the area. Next to it is a mini gymnasium of sorts which attracts health conscious folks. Many can also been seeing jogging or brisk walking around the place.
Vetal tekdi is quite near to ARAI (automotive research institute), though access to it appears restricted.
The hill also has a huge stone quarry that today lies unused. Small water bodies in its midst attract some birds (shikras,kites,jungle crows, cuckoos,mynas,bulbuls,babblers etc) / waders (egrets, cormorants, pond herons).



Its dense trees are also home for peacocks. Though it is rare sighting them but there calls are quite unmistakably common.
In monsoons and winter the area is very green, but in summers the trees shed of their leaves leaving a rather arid appearance which can be seen as beautiful in its own unique way.
The hill can also be accessed by a tar road that goes further to ARAI. Enroute there is a huge open space where people park their cars and then move inwards for a stroll or a jog.






Pic: shikra

Pic: Jungle crow






Pic; grey babbler
Pic: Lemon pansy
Pic: Spotted owlet
 Pic: Small minivet
Pic: Tickells blue flycatcher







Pic: peacock





Text and photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Morachi Chincholi : A Photogue





Morachi Chincholi is a well known  village in the vicinity of Pune known for  the  beautiful peacocks, peahens that flock around its fields and tamarind (Chinch) trees.


It is situated 20kms off Shikrapur (turn from Malthan phata) on Pune-Ahmednagar highway.

Photos:





                                               Text and photos by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 http://www.morachichincholi.com/
 
 

Pashan Lake : A Photologue




Who would have imagined that a beautiful lake that attracts a variety of waders is situated right in the heart of the city.

Pashan lake is one such place capable of giving you that pleasant surprise.

Pashan lake is located 10 kms from Kothrud and can be seen while travelling across Pune Bangalore highway.

Pic:Egret

It can be accessed via Sus Pashan, Kothrud-Chandni chowk road, Mumbai Bangalore highway (Mahadev mandir).

Pic: Common Kingfisher

Pashan lake is situated right in the midst of a green marshy land. Its cool waters attracts birds of various kinds and even migratory birds you wouldnt imagine in the hustle bustle of a city.

Pic: Indian shag cormorant

There are birds like cormorants, painted storks, pond herons, egrets, grey herons, purple herons, pheasant tailed jacunas, swamp hens, river terns, pipits, kingfishers, drongos, shrikes,spot billed ducks, eurasian coots, ibis, kites,marsh harrier,jungle crows, mynas.... (besides  insects, bugs, reptiles and flora)  just to name a few.

Pic: Painted stork

It is one of the most favourite destination of Pune birdies and one often comes across this human variety glued to the lake with their cameras and binoculars.

Pic: Pond hen

Seeing the interest generated by the lake, it is being renovated with a new pathway and a centrally located bridge that joins two ends of a canal.

Photos:





 Pic: Egret
 Pic: Painted stork
 Pic: Paddyfield pipit
 Pic: Cormorant
 Pic: Cormorant
Pic:Egrets
 Pic: Glossy Ibis
 Pic: Pond hen
 Pic: Pond heron
Pic: Common kingfisher
  Pic: Pond heron
 Pic: Purple heron
Pic: Pheasant tailed Jacuna
 Pic: spot billed duck

Pic: Common Sandpiper
 Pic: Egrets
Pic: Little egret
 Pic: Cormorants
 Pic: Jungle myna
Pic: Purple heron & Egret
Pic: Grey heron and cormorant

Pic: Marsh Harrier
Pic: Green Bee eater
Pic:Purple heron
Pic: Red wattled lapwing
 Pic: Cattle egret
Pic: Grey heron
Pic: Garden lizard
Pic: Grey heron
Pic: Black drongo
Pic: Common sandpiper
Pic: Yellow wagtail
Pic: White browed wagtail
Pic: Common coot
Pic: Pied Kingfisher

Pic: Ibis
Pic: White throated Kingfisher
Pic: Black kite n Cormorant











Text & Photos by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Peshwe (Adventure) Park : Photo Feature


Peshwe park a.k.a Peshwe Udyan is located at Parvati, Pune. It has been named after the Peshwas who were prime ministers to the kings and owners of the Parvati area. The park is located adjacent to the Sarasbaug garden and in the vicinity of the Parvati temple hill. Previously the area was a part of a lake that was subsequently converted into a garden.
The Peshwe park is now also called as the Peshwe Adventure Park, especially after the induction of several adventure sport activities like net climbing, rope climbing,wall climbing,grappling,tower climbing, balancing, high altitude cycling, rope skidding, crossing the pond on a rope etc just to name a few (for age groups 3-16).


The children are also provided a safety gear to practise their adventurism (ofcourse under watchful supervision of instructors).


The idea behind the park is to remove the fear element in kids from a young age as was first mooted by its designer BS Deshmukh.




Skills like balancing, decision making are also imparted at an young age.
Previously there was a zoo in these premises which since has been relocated at Katraj.


But what has still been retained is the famous 'Fulrani' toy train .




The toy train is located near the childrens playground which comprises of typical kid amusement activities like see saw, slides, swings etc).

There are also educational models of Solar energy , Hydel energy and Biogas energy  projects  etc which provide information about their basic concepts to these young minds.
The PMC maintains the park and charges Rs 10/- per person (Rs 100/- for foreign nationals). The ticket timings for the park are 9.30 am- 3.30 pm , 4.00 pm -5.30 pm (tentatively).





Outside the park premises are refreshment stalls/eateries as also privately managed amusement activities like ferris cartwheel, horse riding, horse cart riding, carousel, merry go rounds, disney slides etc that charge fees around Rs 10-12.

Miscellaneous photographs:

















Text and Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum : A Photo Feature



Raja Dinkar Kelkar museum was established by Padmashree Dr D G Kelkar in the memory of his son Raja who had met with an untimely tragic death.





This museum showcases artefacts religiously collected from all over India by the late Dr Kelkar , his late wife Sau Kamlabai and daughter Sau Rekha Hari Ranade. The museum is presently being managed by Shri Sudhanva Ranade.









There are priceless antiques, handicrafts, kitchen utensils,musical instruments,locks,weapons, armour, statuetes, paintings, intricately carved doors, windows etc  made in wood, stone,metal,ivory etc on display.



There is also a recreation of the Mastani Mahal in the memory of Mastani the beautiful concubine of Peshwa Bajirao I.



The Kelkar museum situated at Natu Baug, off Bajirao Road,Shukrawar Peth is a testimony of one mans tireless quest for the most exquisite collectibles and their juxtaposition under one roof for the world to see.




Additional photographs:

pic: Meenaxi


pic: Varaha carrying Bhudevi
pic: fish scale armour
pic:zodiac sign wheel
pic: Ganesh on horseback


pic: four headed Ganesha


pic:Vishnu
pic:Ganesha

pic: Shiva 




 pic: light show puppetry
 pic: Buddha

 pic:Thai Ganesha
 pic:Yali

 pic: 5 headed Hanuman
 pic: Vithoba Rahi Rakhumabai
pic:Dattatreya


 pic: crocodile skin armour
pic: Iron plate armour

Address: Natu Baug, off Bajirao road,Pune.
Timings: 9 am- 6 pm
Entry fee: Rs 20/- + 150/- for use of camera.

Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 

Maharana Pratap Bal Udyaan (childrens park) , Pune



In continuation to my articles on childrens parks of Pune, I would like to make a mention of the Maharana Pratap Bal Udyaan which is located at Bajirao road (off Tilak road).
Located in the crowded n clustered peth area of old Pune it is an source of evening entertainment for both young and old alike. It serves doubly as a childrens park as well as a jogging / walking track for adults.


It has a green lawn where people can spend time in recreation and 'gupshup'.


Adjacent is the jogging track.


Alongside the track (towards the left of the entrance) is the childrens amusement park where there are swings, slides, see saws etc.


Outside the ground the kids can enjoy horse rides, merry go rounds etc.






The park also holds smaraks for for greats viz.  Maharana Pratap, Mahatma Basaveshwara, Shaheed Capt Sushant Godbole and Hutatma Bhai Kotwal.

pic: potable drinking water


All in all it is a good place for some evening recreation.

Text & Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Prati Shri Saibaba Mandir , Shirgaon


Prati Shri Saibaba mandir is a grand temple dedicated to Saibaba.


 It is located at Shirgaon (2 kms from Somatane village near Talegaon) off Mumbai Pune highway (app.35 kms from Pune).

The temple was constructed in 2003 due to the initiative of Shree Prakash Deole.
The temple has been built on the lines of the Shirdi Saibaba temple replete with a samadhi, the neem tree et all.


Alongside is a beautiful water fountain shaped like a giant kalash.



Then there is also a palatial Annapurnalaya which looks beautiful at night due to the illumination.


This place is definately not worth missing for either devotees or connoiseurs of beautiful architecture.

Ref:  http://shrisaimandirshirgaon.org/abtshirgaon.htm
Note: Photography is disallowed inside the actual temple.
 
 

The Temples of Baneshwar and Amruteshwar : A Photo Feature



Baneshwar is a medieval temple constructed in the 18th century by Peshwe Shrimant Balaji Bajirao. It is located in the Bhor taluka of Pune district.


It can be accessed by the Pune Bangalore highway. One drives 30kms from Pune to reach Nasrapur .


There one takes a right turn to pass through the Nasrapur village .


Towards the end of the  village road, one turns right to climb a hillock to reach the Baneshwar temple.


Baneshwar literally means the Eshwar (lord) of the Bana(forest).


True to its name, the Peshwas built this temple (dedicated to Lord Shiva) right in the midst of a green grove, surrounded by flowing streams and a thunderous waterfall.


The best time for tourists to visit Baneshwar  is in the monsoons when the beauty of the surroundings is particularly enhanced.


The temple has several  water tanks which are also a home for aquatic life like fishes and tortoises. One of these water tanks has a Gomukhi spout which pours in water.


The temple is made from black stone and has this nagara styled shikhara which has been painted in attractive colours  and adorned with deity figurines amidst the gavakshas and the kapotas.


 Facing the doorway is a Nandi mandapa wich house a fairly large idol of Nandi Maharaj. The main temple is divided into a ardhamandapa , a sabhamandapa and a garbhagriha. The sabhamandapa ceiling is supported simply on its strong walls and there are no pillars for additional support.


The sabhamandapa flooring  has a brass tortoise image , which is a part of the iconography of Shiva temples. The ceiling is hollow from the inside. The gabhara or sanctum sanctorum houses a beautiful Shiva Linga.
The temple has this beautiful bell of Portuguese make which was a part of the war booty of Maratha Portuguese wars that took place in the 18th century.


Around the main temple are several minor temples belonging to various other deities like Lord Ganesha, Lord Hanumana etc.


The drainage system of the temple also appears very unique and well defined.


The rear side of the temple has been converted into a botanical garden. There is this beautiful bamboo grove along with several trees,plants and saplings belonging to different species. Further a kilometer away lie the famous waterfalls of Baneshwar, which remains an attractive feature for picknickers, especially in the rainy season when the place is in its full splendour.


The Amruteshwar temple is located in the village of Mohari , around 15kilometers from Nasrapur (50kms from Pune). After coming down from the Baneshwar hill, one takes a right, drives for around two kilometers


and then takes a left turn which take you through some lush green fields , across river Gunjawani and a maze of small roads  (which can be a little confusing) until one comes across the Amruteshwar temple.
The Amruteshwar temple is also medieval, belonging to the Yadava era. The temple since has been  renovated  several times during the Maratha period till date.
It is said that the temple was often used by the Maratha king Shivaji and his guardian-advisor, Dadoji Kondev to settle village disputes.


Presently, the temple comprises of a Nandi mandapa  which  has this huge Nandi idol guarding the doorway.


Next one enters the Sabhamandapa which appears Yadavkaalin and made in black stone.



There are old idols of Mahishasurmardini, Shiva Parvati ,Ganesha in the sabhamandaps aedicules.




The doorframe of the gabhara is particularly ornate, with images of a sharabha, a vyaal, a ganda bherunda , floral motifs carved on them. The ceiling and the pillars are also typically carved like in many temples around Maharashtra.
The shikhara of the temple is nagara in style and elaborately painted with figurines of gods and goddesses.




The sharabha carving seems to have been the favourite of the temple sculptors and can be seen carved on the exterior walls of the temple as well.




The Sharabha and the Gandabherunda carvings are a part of several temples , forts in Maharashtra. There is also a mythological background behind these mythical beings.


Sharabha a mythical half bird half beast creature with amazing streangth. It was (as per Shaivite scriptures ) a form Shiva took to tame Narsinha, the half man half lion incarnation of Vishnu. However, Vaishnavite scriptures refute this. Some claim that Sharabha was just another avtar of Vishnu while some say Vishnu took the form of Gandabherunda ,another mythical bird with magical streangth to tame Sharabha.
All the idols and the iconography in the temple are indeed intricately done and are a testament to their artisan’s skill. There is the typical gomukhi (cow head) drain spout protruding out of the side wall of the temple, besides carvings of a sharabha lifting elephants, fighting warriors etc.
The gabhara houses a swayambhu (naturally formed) Shivalinga and also an old idol of Vishnu-Laxmi. 




The Shivalinga has an interesting folklore behind it. The Shivalinga  was apparently discovered by a cowherd ,when he found his cows repeatedly giving milk at a particular place. On clearing the area he came across this Shivalinga. When he tried to shift it, it wouldnt budge. That night in his dream the Lord appeared and asked him to use a yoke over the two cows and pull it over. Apparently the trick worked and he resurrected it in the temple.


A trip to the Baneshwar and Amruteshwar temples is definitely recommended on a visitors itenary. While one gets to experience the beauty of nature at Baneshwar, at Amruteshwar you can admire the beauty of its sculptures.
 
 

Alandi



Alandi is a pilgrimage centre situated around twenty five kilometers from Pune city on the bank of river Indrayani in Maharashtra.


It is famous as the samadhi sthal of the renowned 13th century saint Sant Dnyaneshwar who translated the Bhagvad Geeta in the local language marathi for undertanding of the common folks (besides temples dedicated to Vithal Rahumai, Jalaram etc).


Today one sees a ghat in the place surrounding the samadhi sthal where a temple in the memory of Sant Dnyaneshwar was created.

Alandi as a pilgrimage centre is famous especially amongst the followers of the Warkari panth who obey the teachings of the medeival saints like Dnyaneshwar,Tukaram etc and hold Vithoba -Rakhumai of Pandharpur as their principal deities .

Miscellaneous photos of Dnyaneshwar samadhi mandir (clicked from a cell camera) :

Pic:Dnyaneshwaar samadhi mandir entrance


pic:mandir shikhara

pic: ancient tree where Sant Dnyaneshwars mother had apparently offered a hundred pradakshinas
pic:Sant Eknath paduka
pic:mandir's offices
mandir: shikhar,gabhara
pic:palkhi


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksh
 

Ramdara Temple, Pune



Ramdara is a old temple situated around ten kilometeres from Loni Kalbhor village, off Pune Solapur highway (20 kms from Pune).


The temple was constructed by one Devipuri maharaj a.ka Dhundi baba. It is built in a very serene location overlooking a pond .


The way to the temple albiet a little rough has a scenic view as it goes through some lush green fields.

An added attraction to this beautiful location are a group of white geese that run amock in the pond.


The temple itself is very colourful.



The basic structure being in black stone is adorned with some beautiful murals of hindu deities and saints.


Though the main deity is Shiva, there are virtually all deities encompassed in this temple.


The sabhamandap is ornately decorated with walls depicting stories from hindu mythology.


One also finds a beautiful idol of Nandi at the entrance of the sabhamandap.


Not many people are aware of this temple. Hence it is virtually uncrowded , something which creates more tranquility around this place.



Text and photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Hooli Panchalingeshwara Temple : A Photo Feature



Hooli is a village 9kms from Saundatti off Belgaum-Saundatti Road (Belgaum - Saundatti distance is 78 kms).


Pic:Sabhamandapa

It is famous for its exquisitely carved temples. One such temple is the magnificent Panchalingeshwar temple.

Pic:intricately carved shikhara

The temple is made from carved stone and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The construction seems similar to the Kadamba temple style.
Pic:Gajalaxmi


Pic:Veergals

It is preserved by the Archaelogical Survey of India.


The temple is very well maintained with a beautiful green lawn and garden adorning its premise.

Text and Photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 

Chintamani Ganpati Mandir of Theur




The Chinatmani Ganpati temple at Theur is one of the Ashtavinayaka temples viz. the eight Ganesha pilgrimage centres in Maharashtra.


The  temple has a lore behind it. It is said that after praying to Lord Shiva, the sage Kapila was gifted with the Chintamani diamond. It had magical properties and could grant any desire of its beholder. One day it so happened that Prince Guna (son of King Abhijat and Gunavati) visited the sage. The sage used the amazing power of the stone and accorded the prince a very sumptuous meal. The prince was amazed at the wonderous powers of the stone and yearned for it. He requested the sage to part with the stone. But when the sage refused he stole it from the sages ashram. The sage in despair prayed to Lord Ganesha who in turn recovered back the diamond . But Sage Kapila wuld now have nothing to do with the stone that caused him such angst and gave it back to Lord Ganesha to adorn his neck. That gave Lord Ganesha the name of Chintamani. Since Kapila had prayed to Ganesha under the Kadamba tree, Theur was known in the ancient times as Kadambanagar.


Theur is located  22kms from Pune and lies across the Pune Solapur highway at the confluence of rivers Bhima, Mula and Mutha.


The Ganesha idol is left trunked and north facing. Two diamonds adorn the saffron coloured idol as its eyes. The main temple was built by Dharanidhar dev maaraj from the Maurya Gosavi lineage sometime in the 17th century.



Later Peshwa Madhavrao built a wooden (teak) sabhamandap for the temple in typical Maratha architectural style (so similar to other peshwakaalin temples all over Pune).


The sabhamandap also has a old stone fountain facing the gabhara entrance.


Madhavrao Peshwa was said to have breathed his last in the precincts of this temple and his wife Ramabai also went sati in its vicinity. Their samadhis are located here.


 The freshly painted shikhara has obviously undergone renovations from time to time and is nagara in style.


The temple also holds minor temple to Lord Shiva,Vishnu and Hanuman.


The temple courtyard  also has a five alloy  bell that was gifted by the Sardar Sarsenapati Dabhade family of Talegaon Dabhade.

Text and photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 
 

Rajiv Gandhi Zoological Park, Pune


Rajiv Gandhi Zoological Park or Rajiv Gandhi Udyan is a city zoo displaying a variety of animals and reptiles found all over the country. It is located at Katraj, Pune.


`

Its idea was first conceived by Shri Neelamumar Khaire and was brought into light in the form of Katraj Snake Park in 1986. 







Being a ardent snake lover, Mr Khaire decided to make the general people aware about this misunderstood reptile called the snake. 



For the same, the organization conducts awareness programmes and provides information about snakes in general. Mr Khaire has even translated this information into braile for the benefit of the blind. 



Later a small zoo and a botanical garden was also created alongside to provide additional attractions to the park. 




In 1999 with the government help the zoo expanded with animals from the Peshwe park being transferred here.







Today the park has around a hundred and six varieties of snakes and reptiles.







One of the major attractions of the par are the white royal Bengal tiger and a nine feet long king cobra. 




Besides these there are some rare brown palm civets, tigers, leopards,elephants,bear,deer,chinkaras,wild buffaloes, birds,turtles,porcupines,moneys,crocodile,antelope,wolf,hyenas,jackals, etc.


The zoo timings are between 10 am- 5.30pm, from Mondays to Sundays (except Wednesdays).



The entry fee is Rs 15/- per person (Rs 5/-p.child).On Wednesdays, the zoo is closed. It takes around 2-3 hours to see this sprawling par in detail. 


There are vehicles that take people around the park, but it is always preferable to see the same on foot. The park also has a artificial lake where boating is made available for the enthusiasts. Also outside the park there are several joyrides, carousel,merry go rounds, horse rides etc which the kids enjoy, while the parents can have a quic snack at the food joints alongside.


Rajiv Gandhi Udyaan is one of the major attractions of Pune and a treat for the children and adults alike.







Additional Photographs :



 Pic: Black buck, chinkara

Pic: A surprise visitor outside the tigers cage .... A white throated kingfisher bird

Pic: Sloth bear
Pic: Red faced monkeys
Pic: Neelgai
Pic: Royal Bengal Tiger sharpening his claws
Pic: A watchful leopard
Pic: A distracted tiger





Pic: Indian bison
Pic: Barking deer

Pic: Chinkara


























Pic: white tiger


Text and Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha

The Natural Potholes of Nighoj




Nighoj is an nondescript village in Shirur district (around 40kms from Ahmednagar and 80-90 kms from Pune, off Pune Nagar highway) .
But what makes this village unique are its natural deep gorge rock formations.
This place is also known locally as Ranjan Khalge . Its basalt rock riverbed formations are created around the Kukdi river that flows within the gorge.
The temple of Malganga located across the riverbed is also a popular religious place amongst the locals.

Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Shri Mangal Murti Morya Ganpati Idol of Somatane (Birla Ganapati), Pune


Shri Mangal Murti Morya Ganpati idol of Shirgaon is a 54 feet monolith idol of Lord Ganesh located atop a hill looking over the Mumbai Pune NH4 highway at Somtane Phata,Talegaon.


This 54 feet idol is seated over a 18 feet tall base placed over a hillock, making this idol visible to the passerbys even kilometres away.


Around 180 steps lead us up to this imposing Ganesh idol.


The idol is moulded in reinforced concrete and painted in metallic copper colour giving it a very radiant look.


The idol was established by the Birla family and was sculpted by the father son duo of Maturam Verma and Nareshkumar Verma of Pilani,Rajasthan.


 It took nearly three years and tireless work by craftsmen and labourers to get the work done.




pic: the idol looks beautiful after it is illuminated in the night

Spiritual leader Swami Tejomayanandji of the Chinmaya mission had innaugurated this idol in 2009.






Text and Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Joshi Railway Museum, Pune



As kids invariably all of us are fascinated by the life in railways. The sound of the train whistle appeals to us , as does the whooshing sound of the railway engine as it speeds past us, leaving behind a smoke of cloud for our memories.


However  very few carry forward this fascination to adulthood. One such person who did so was Mr B S Joshi . Not only did he cultivate and nourish his hobby for the railway engine but also created their scale models and put them up for display in what we now know as the Joshi Railway Museum.


Joshi Railway Museum is situated behind Sangam Press, at Erandwane ,Karve road (Kothrud-Pune). The museum is open to the public between 5-8 pm on Saturdays and Sundays.


As one enters the museum premises, one gets the impression of entering a railway station. Even a restaurant on the basement is designed on the lines of a railway canteen.





There are audio visual shows available which provide a running documentary on the railways while adifferent types of railway engine models run over a created model of a rail track , complete with platforms,mountain passes, cranes,slidings,trolley buses,monorails,drive in theatre,circus,windmills,tunnels etc.


All this is not just spellbinding for a young kid accompanying us, but adults too are impressed by the sheer ingenuity of the show.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 
 

Holkar Chatri, Pune


The Holkar Chatri, Kirkee,Pune is a mausoleum dedicated to Sardar Vithoji Holkar who was killed in Pune at the orders Peshwa Bajirao II as the former had opposed the ascension of Bajirao II to the Peshwa throne. (Tukojirao Holkar , the father of Vithoji had also died in Kirkee).


In retaliation, Vithojis brother Sardar Yeshwantrao Holkar had sacked Pune in 1802, forcing Bajirao II to flee to the confines of Fort Sinhagad. Later Bajirao II sought the help of the Scindias and the English to drive away the Holkar and the rest is history.


The Holkar Chatri is not as prominent as the Shinde Chatri and is built as a nondescript temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.


The property belongs to the Holkar family and is managed by a trust.


Timings for visiting the temple are 6-9am and 5-7pm.


Across the Holkar Chatri is the more famous Holkar Bridge which is more than 150 years old. It is said that Sardar Malharrao Holkar used to camp in its premises.The Holkar bridge is built over the Mula Mutha river.



 In proximity is also a old ghat used mainly for Ganesh visarjan and perhaps obsequies.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Miscellaneous Churches of Kirkee, Pune : A Photo Feature


Kirkee or Khadki is an area of tremendous historical significance. The last Anglo Maratha war was fought here. Since then the victorious British army set up its cantonment at Khadki. Subsequently they established many churches in the area to cater to the religious needs of their soldiers.


St Ignatius Church is located at Gen Thimayya road,Kirkee,Pune. It is a part of the Poona Diocese .

The church has a Visgothic style construction resembling the churches in Goa.

One gets to enter the church through an arch with the words 'Our Lady of  Vailananni Pray for us' painted on it.








The pathway to the church is enclosed by walls on both sides. There are murals painted on the wall niches depicting stories from the bible.



The interiors of the church are also splendid and very gothic.




This is indeed a beautiful church and a must watch for the devotees and the curious alike.

Methodist English church, Elphinstone road, Kirkee, Pune.Since the foundations of the Methodist church were laid in 1872 by people like Dr. Rev.Taylor,Rev.Fox, Rev Stephens, many more methodist churches sprung up with evangelical speed.
The Methodist English church at Kirkee has a Gothic construction in black stone.


All Saints Church, Mumbai Pune road,Kirkee,Pune. Also refer the link:
http://travelogueunlimited.blogspot.com/2010/11/all-saints-churchpune-photo-feature.html






St Andrews Church,Kirkee,Pune. Also refer the link:
http://travelogueunlimited.blogspot.com/2010/11/st-andrews-church-war-cemetery-kirkee.html







Text and Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha and Banibrata Das
 
 

Talegaon Dabhade : A Photo Feature


Talegaon Dabhade is a historical town located around 30ms from Pune city lying across the old Pune Mumbai highway.


It was once the jagir of Sarsenapati Dabhade family who were the commander in chiefs of the Maratha army.
The town still has remnants of this historical legacy in form of the Induri Fort, the Rajwada pedhis (small forts), Naska talao,Kadjai, Mahadev and Pandav temples, Sardar Khanderao Dabhade samadhi etc.
This fiefdom was singlehandedly created by Sardar Khanderao Dabhade (son of Yesba Dabhade, the personal bodyguard of Chatrapati Shivaji maharaj), one of the early patriarchs of the family. Sardar Khanderao was one of the earliest supporters of Chatrapati Shahu Maharaj, the grandson of Chatrapati Shivaji raje. Because of his sheer valour and integrity, Sardar Khanderao rose to the rank of the Sarsenapati in Ch.Shahus army.
The Dabhades seat of power was initially Gujrat (Sardar Pilaji Gaekwad the patriarch of the Baroda royal family was a commander in Sardar Dabhades army). But after a fallout with the Peshwas (Chief minister to the Chatrapati-King) following a territorial dispute, the Dabhades were confined to their family estate of Talegaon Dabhade (especially after Yeshwantrao Dabhade, second son of Khanderao refused to serve under the Peshwa Bajirao I, whom he held personally responsible for his brother Trimbakrao's death).


Induri Fort:
This fort was constructed by Sarsenapati Sardar Khanderao Dabhade in 1720-21 across the banks of River Indrayani.




The fort walls are still very much intact. Above the entrance of the fort lies the nagarkhana with a carved  'Ganesha' emblem signifying his protection for the fort.


This emblem is flanked by two 'sharabha' emblems.


The walls are connected by bastions that may have served as watchposts for the fort.



The forts also house the Godesss Kadjai temple. It is said that the idol of Kadjai was brought along by Sau Sagunabaisaheb.
Note:Sau Umabaisaheb was a warrior in her own right and had on one occassion repelled a attack by a Mughal sardar Jorawar Khan Babi on the city of Ahmedabad-Gujrat. For her service to the kingdom Chatrapati Shahu maharaj of the Satara throne had presented Umabaisaheb with a gold 'toda' (anklet) and a bejewelled sword. Even the title of Sarsenapati continued with Sau Umabaisaheb even after the death of her husband Khanderao.Today the Dabhades of Talegaon and the royal Bhosales of Satara have matrimonial relations with each other (as with other maratha aristocrat families like Scindias of Gwalior, Bhosales of Nagpur, Bhosales of Kolhapur, Kibes of Indore etc).


Sardar Khanderao Dabhade Samadhi sthal:










The ornately carved samadhi sthal of Sardar Khanderao Dabhade has also been constructed alongside the Mahadev temple, located in Talegaon village.


Also alongside one can see a water tank called 'Naska Tala'.




Pic: walls of the old Rajwada

Besides there are a few more samadhis belonging to the Dabahade family members and some veergals (hero stones).


Pandav Temple:












This temple is also owned by the Dabhade family and is a unique temple dedicated to the five Pandavas and Draupadi.


Text and Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha, Acknowledgements to Satyasheelraje Dabhade, the 13th descendent of the Dabhade Junior house
 
 

Kamla Nehru Park, Pune


Kamla Nehru Park was constructed sometime in the early fifties (1951-52) over a 4 acre land at Erandawane, off Bhandarkar Road.


It was named after the wife of India's first Prime Minister, Shri Jawaharlal Nehru.


In 1953-4, the garden was further developed and an water fountain was also created.


This garden was later alloted to Lord Ray industrial museum ( Mahatma Phule Udyan ) used for botanical studies.


There were also playground facilities (slides,swings,carousels) provided for children.


The garden has a variety of flora like Ashoka,Mahogany,Eucylyptus,Peepal,Sandal,Palm,Guinesses, Coconut, Coniferous trees etc provided on a green patch of lawn with a pathway created around it. The garden also has flower varieties like Rose etc.


The Indian airforce has also put up there, an fuselage of a Marut-HF24 fighter plane on display.
Outside the park , the kids are also entertained with horse rides.


The garden also has a small temple for the religious, besides benches, lamposts provided all over the garden.


Timings for the park are 6-11 am and 4-8 pm.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Vartak Udyan, Pune


Vartak Udyan is located near the historical temple of Omkareshwar, a kilometer away from the Balgandharva theatre. It is named after the renowned botanist and educationist, Dr V D Vartak .



It is a very green park that also serves as a jogging track.


Besides, there is a childrens playground.


There are also yoga and laughing club sessions taking place in the garden.


Outside the garden one an also find vendors selling nourishing vegetable juices.


The timings for the park are between 6.30-10 am and 4-8.30 pm.


Text and photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Chittaranjan Vatika , Pune



Chittaranjan Vatika is a sprawling garden run by the Pune Municipal Corporation and is located at Model Colony about 3-4 ms away from Deccan gymkhana.



It has a beautiful botanical garden complete with huge trees and flora. It also has a jogging track and a playground for children.


Interestingly there are traffic signals, distance boards and traffic signs present in the park .


They  are meant for educating children about the traffic rules of the city.



What attracts one to this garden is its vast expanse and is a treat for both the young and old alike.





Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Sambhaji Park, Pune


Sambhaji Park lies next to 'Balgandharva Rang Mandir' theatre, a kilometre away from the Deccan gymkhana.


It is named after Chatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj, the son of the illustrious Maratha king,Ch.Shivaji.


 The park was constructed sometime in 1951 and is under the maintenance of Pune Municipal Corporation.







pic:aquarium

pic:oscar fish
pic:arwana fish
pic:giant gourami
pic:silver shark
pic:tiger shark fish
pic:redshock flowerhorn fish
pic:goldfish
pic:pirhana fish
pic:aligator gar fish
pic:angel fish

The Garden is characterised by green lawns, colourfull flower plants, a gazebo, a water fountain, some ethnic vegetation, a clay fort model, a train model, a globe model, a clay statue of Lord Shiva, clay animal statues, a aquarium, besides a old battle tank on display.

pic:Omkareshwar temple as seen from the Sambhaji park playground




One also gets a view of the famed Omkareshwar temple from the Sambhaji park. There is also a playground for kids complete with see saws, slides etc (inside and outside the park).


The Sambhaji Park is one of the most prominent landmarks of Pune city.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Bund Gardens , Pune




Bund Gardens is one of the oldest gardens in Pune.  It was constructed sometime in 1868 around a bund (dam), first constructed over the Mula Mutha river by noted philanthropist Sir Jamshetji Jeejebhoy in the 1850s.


Later a bridge was constructed over the river and named as Fritzgerald Bridge.



This bridge is also called the Sinhacha pul (Lions bridge) because of the Lion engravings over it. It connects the cantonment area to the Western Yerawda section.



A boating facility was also provided near the river and was named the Royal Connaught Boat club.


The Bund Garden has been renamed as Mahatma Gandhi Udyan and is located near Koregaon Park, 2 kms from the Pune railway station.


The garden has been adorned with a green lawn, beautiful plants, a childrens playground and a gazebo.



There is also a jogging park available. Outside the garden, there is a amusement park for children and a popular shopping mall called the 'Pune Central'.


Overall the Bund Gardens is a complete entertainment package for the young and old alike.

Text and Photographs (except the vintage photos in black and white) : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Osho Teerth Park , Pune : A Photo Feature


Osho Teerth Par was constructed in 1994 at Koregaon Park , Pune.


It was built on the sprawling Osho commune estate, on what was previously a 'Nallah' (waste water stream)and is therefore also known as the Nallah Park.


The park was built by the Shunyo foundation on a five hectare land and is presently managed by the Osho commune (started by the late spiritual guru, Bhagwan Rajneesh a.k.a Osho).


The park is built on the lines of a Zen garden.


On entering the park, one is greeted by this life like stone statue of Osho, inviting you to this beautiful garden complete with green lawns, ethnic plants and trees, bamboo groves, stone steps, stone benches, small waterfalls etc.


What impresses one and all is the serenity and tranquility of this place. No wonder that it is frequented by people who want to find solitude in the bustling city of Pune.





















Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Khadakvasla , Panshet & Varasgaon Dams : A Photo Feature



Khadavasla , Panshet and Varasgaon Dams are situated in vicinity to Pune. All this dams are located in close proximity to each other.


From Pune, one takes the Sinhagad road and comes across first at Khadakvasla dam at Khadakvasla village (around 20kms from Pune). It is built across the Mutha river.


Khadakvasla dam was constructed in 1879 at a height of 31.79 metres and a length of 1939 metres.


The Khadakvasla dam has also become a favourite picnic spot for the Punekars. 


Due to its popularity, several hawkers have gathered in its surroundings offering eatables and refreshments for the picknickers.


A road from the Khadakvasla dam also takes you to the Sinhagad fort, while a detour takes you towards Panshet-Varasgaon.


Enroute one comes across institutes like a NDA training facility, Veternary college,CWPRS etc besides several scenic locations.


The Khadakvasla dam was the first masonary gravity dam of its kind to be built. 


During the Panshet floods of 1961, the Khadakvasla dam had to be blown using dynamite to allow the flow of the flooded waters. But it was subsequently rebuilt.


As one drives around 30 kms further, you come across the Panshet dam.



Panshet Dam was constructed over the Ambi river in the late 1959. 


But in 1961, the dam developed ruptures resulting in the inundation of Pune city. 


A decade later the dam was reopened for usage. It was renamed as Tanajisagar dam after Ch.Shivaji's famed knight Tanaji Malusare.



The dam is 6356 mtrs in height and 1039mt in length. 


The green backdrop of the Panshet dam provides a picturesque view for the onlookers.


A little further from the Panshet dam is the Varasgaon dam constructed over the Mose river . 





This dam too has been converted into a picnic spot and provides even a boating facility for the picknickers besides hotels serving Maharashtrian delicacies.














The Varasgaon dam has been renamed as Veer Baji Pasalkar dam after another of the Chhatrapatis knights.



One can cover all these three dams in a day and enjoy their scenic locations.




Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Raja Mantri Udyan, Pune : A Photo Feature


Raja Mantri Udyan is a garden managed by Pune Municipal Corporation and is situated near the Null stop, Erandawane, off Karve road.


Raja Mantri Udyan is a small but beautiful garden built on the lines of a Japanese garden.


It is complete with beautiful flower and decorative plants.


Bamboo plants also adorn the green lawns of the garden.


There is a Japanese style bridge constructed over a water fountain which adds to the charm of the place.


Then there is this gazebo with benches providing a resting space to the elderly.


Despite the small size of the garden, it is still a favourite haunt for the locals who cant seem to get enough of its beauty.

Additional Photographs :








Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Model Colony Tala Udyaan : A Photo Feature


Model Colony Tala Udyaan a.k.a Lakaki Park is situated in Model colony, near Ganeshkhind and is managed by the Pune Municipal Corporation .


This beautiful garden is created around a lake.


Two huge water fountains created in the middle of the lake add to its beauty.



A cement pathyway has been created around the lake . The lake is also home for geese, ducks and fishes , besides birds like kingfisher,hornbills, waders, parakeets, kites, coucals etc that are attracted to its cool waters.



The lake also has a green cover of water plants in certain sections.


Alongside the pathway is the garden with a green manicured lawn and decorative plants.


The timings are 6am-apm and 4pm-6pm. A nominal entrance fee of Rs 5/-p.person is also charged.

Additional photographs:


























Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Pu La Deshpande Udyaan, Pune : A Photo Feature


Pu La Deshpande Udyaan is located at Sinhagad road, Pune. It is also called Pune Okayama Friendship Garden and was errected by the Shimoden Landscape & Civil Engg.Co Ltd, Japan (in cooperation from the Commemorative organisation for Japan World Exposition), on the lines of the 300 year old Korakuen Japanese Garden of Okayama, Japan. The inauguration of the garden took place in the presence of chief guests like the erstwhile chief minister of Maharashtra, Shri Vilasraoji Deshmukh and Masahiri Iko, the governor of  Okayama. The Park was renamed as Pu La Deshpande Udyan after Shri Pu La Deshpande, the late humourist and playwright also declared as Maharashtras most loved personality.


The park is built on a ten acre stretch of land. The park is complete with sprawling green lawns, flower / decorative plants, rice/ coffee/ bamboo plantations, man made streams , ponds, mini waterfalls, arranged rock patterns, stone lanterns, Japanese bridges, Gazebos et all.


The Park timings are 4pm-8pm in the evening. Entry fee is Rs 5/-p.head. Car parking charges are extra.
The Garden is an excellent example of balance of the five elements and the spirit of Zen.

Additional photographs :

























Text and photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Peshwekaalin Temples of Kothrud,Pune : A Photo Feature

Kothrud boasts of two Peshwekaalin ( from the Peshwas times) temples viz. Dashabhuja Ganpati Mandir at Paud Phata and the Mrutyunjayeshwar Shiv Mandir a kilometer further on Karve Road.
Both were apparently owned by Sardar Haripant Ballal Phadke, a close aide of Nana Phadanvis the regent of Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao (late 18th century). The temples (as also Moti bagh where Vishrambaug wada is constructed) were subsequently handed over to the Peshwa family as a part of dowry (when the daughter of Dajiba Phadke , the son of Sardar Haripant Phadkes  was married to Peshwa Bajirao II a.k.a Raobaji on 16.2.1797).
It is said that Mastani the favourite concubine of Peshwa Bajirao I stayed in the same area where Mrutyunjayeshwar temple was later built.
The temples have since undergone renovations and are presently managed by the Devedeveshwar temple  trust (estb. 1846) that also manages the famed Parvati temple / Sarasbaug temple of Pune.

Dashabhuja Ganpati Mandir



Pic: Shikhara
Pic: sabhamandap
Pic: Ganpati idol in the gabhara
Pic: Hanuman temple




Mrutyunjayeshwar Shiv Mandir






Pic: Nandi mandap
Pic: sabhamandap
Pic:gabahara
Pic:rear side
Pic: Hanuman Mandir

Text and Pictures : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

Visit to the Somnath Temple , Pimpri dumala & Ranjangaon Mahaganpati Temple : A Photo Travelogue



A picture on Google of a ancient stepped water tank , ‘kund’,  attracted me to the nondescript  village of Pimpri Dumala . But what was revealed , was very much more than the Kund.
It was this beautiful Hemadpanthi temple made in solid black stone and adored with some exquisite carvings lying in this obscure  village, virtually oblivious to the outside world.


Pimpri Dumala is a very small village located near the more famous Ranjangaon , known for the Mahaganpati Ashtavinayaka temple (besides the automotive  manufacturing plant of Fiat India). Ranjangaon being very near to Pune (50kms distance,in Shirur taluka on Pune Ahmednagar road), it would have taken us maximum an hour to reach there. So we started a tad late (by 2pm) after a sumptuous lunch.
By 3 ‘o’clock, we were at Ranjangaon.


After asking directions for Pimpri Dumala in the Ranjangaon village , we realized that we had passed it over. We thus had to retrace back our path by a  couple of kilometers. We soon encountered this rather small signpost (which we had obviously missed on the way)with the words, ‘Somnath devasthan’.


The way to the Somnath temple , was through a very narrow road, full of wet mud, (due to the recent monsoons) and filled with gigantic potholes. The wet mud around the potholes also made the road a little slippery, and the danger was the car slipping down to the canal alongside the road.  However, manouvering the car around those potholes, definately made me proud of my driving skills.


After a slow drive of fifteen minutes over the god forsaken road, I finally made it to the village. The temples shikhara was visible from a distance and I pushed the pedal to hasten to our destination.
What we saw was a temple with its  ‘kalasha’ painted in blue having white coloured niches. The plinth and the walls of the temple were coated in grey. The temple was built in the Hemadpanthi style, in solid stone, possibly without the use of mortor (atleast initially). I figured that the temple must be at least 14th century , considering the time period of Hemadpanthi temples.


The temple’s shikhara seemed latter addition and was made in lime and gypsum plastered around its basic brickwork structure. The shikhara design was distinctly 'Devali-Nagara', complete with a central bulbous dome having a pointed finial. The portion below was double layered with niches aligned one next to the other and containing figurines of deities and saints. The lowermost layer had meghdambari style niches. Furthermore, there were smaller spires around the entablature.


The main temple had this ‘Nandimandapa’ built just before the entrance. The Nandimandap housed a  Nandi idol made out of black stone.


Just next to the temple entrance was this exquisitely carved idol of Suryanarayana with its iconic sun totem.


The temple had this dark sabhamandap (assembly hall), illuminated by the light coming from the open doorway. There was a small antarala (vestibule) separating the sabhamandap from the garbhagriha (sanctum).


The sabhamandap was supported by these strong stone pillars having designs and figurines carved on their square faces.


The ceiling too was etched with a design of a square within a square and a flower motif adorning the centre.



The pillars distinguishing the vestibule from the main hall, had these two celestial figurines sculpted in stone.


The gabhara doorframe was also intricately ornamented with motifs and figurines carved at the base. There was a Ganesha frame centrally carved on the top plate of the door frame (and painted in saffron) .


The Gabhara was a dark room housing this beautiful stone Shivalinga with a copper cobra covering the linga with its encompassing hood. There was also this metallic Shiva mask afixed to the temple wall, right behind the linga. Above the mask was this mirror providing a reflection of the Shivalinga. A copper ‘kalas’ (vessel) dripping water over the linga,  was suspended from the ceiling by a iron chain.








After praying before the Lord, I came out to survey the figurines and statuettes adorning the exterior temple walls . Must say they were in plenty. From the Ganesha shilp to Vishnu. From Parvati to Kali. There were many shilps (sculptures) of Gods, Godesses,Yakshas and Apasaras (even tantric/esoteric deities) adorning every face of the temple.There were also figurines of ascetics meditating in the Yati position

 
There were also some loose idols  resting against the temple walls. They may have been a part of the original temple before its jeernoddhar.


Incidently, there was one stone slab resembling a veergal (heros stones, in the memory of local martyrs) fixed to one face of the temple wall. Usually one comes across loose 'veergals' lying in the vicinity of a temple. But for the first time I was  seeing a Veergal slab actually a part of the wall sculptures.


Alongside the temple was this water tank known as a ‘Jala kunda’ which had initially attracted me to the place. However the tank was filled to its brim with rain water and I wasn’t accorded the pleasure of witnessing its ‘stepped’ design which had made the Kunda so alluring in the first place.
It took us around an hour to view this fascinating temple from every direction and click photographs to our hearts content. 


Since we had sufficient time on hand we decided to make it to the Ranjangaon Mahaganpati temple as well. Afterall I couldn’t miss out on the darshan of Lord Ganesha after coming so near to his most famous temple.




However , this time around (while going back) we avoided the canal road and took a different route (after due enquiries with the villagers) for Ranjangaon. This road was equally rough, but it spared us the potholes.
Within half an hour we reached Ranjangaon.


The original temple (said to be at least 9-10th century) has undergone renovations over a period of time. 






The most significant renovations were done during the time of Peshwa Madhavrao and his nephew Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao in the late 18th century.


Sardar Kibe from the Holkar roayal court  is also recorded to have made significant contributions to the temple.


The present structure though reminiscent of 18th century Peshwekaalin architecture, appears recently renovated. The main temple is surrounded by these huge temple walls. 


The facade consists of this massive nagarkhana and houses the administrative offices of the temple .


 The doorway is flanked by the images of Jay and Vijay, the celestial dwarpals (gatekeepers).


There is also a water kunda outside the temple.
The temple also has several minor temples dedicated to different deities.


The temple is ‘purvabhimukh’ or facing the east. Thus the first rays of the Sun are said to be cast on the temple idol before spreading around rest of the temple. The Ganesha idol is flanked by his consorts Riddhi and Siddhi.


The sabhamandap is made out of polished teak, so typical of Peshwekaalin temples of Pune. 


The pillars have a cypress tree shape with banana leaf embellishments. 


The ceiling which is also wooden, has these beautiful chandeliers adorning the place.


There is a silver elephant placed just outside the gabhara doorway.


The wall also has this Ganesha hymn embossed on a silver foil.



Another significant feature of this temple is an arcade passageway, whose walls display paintings depicting the mythology behind the Mahaganpati temple.


The story (as per Shaivite scriptures) goes this way – In the ancient times there was this Asura king born out of a sneeze of a sage, Rishi Grutsmanda.


This Asura came to be known as Tripurasura, mainly after praying to Lord Shiva. Apparently pleased with the Asuras penanaces Lord Shiva granted him three cities (as per some a triplet fortress)  each made in Iron,Gold and Silver.


Shiva also blessed the Asura with invincibility stating that no one besides himself can defeat him in battle and as long as his three cities are intact, no harm shall befall him. After this boon the Asura came to be known as Tripurasura  or the ‘master of three cities’.
 Because of this boon of invincibility, Tripurasura set out to conquer different worlds. He soon conquered the earth, the heaven, the Brahmaloka (abode of Brahma) and even the Vishnuloka (abode of Vishnu).


The Devas thereafter approached Lord Shiva to seek his help in destroying this demon king. Shiva thus led the charge of the Deva army against Tripurasura.
But the demon army proved too strong mainly because of his impregnable cities and Shivas own boon of invincibility. This set Shiva thinking as to why he wasn’t able to subdue the demon king who was destined to die at his hands. But Sage Narada resolved Shiva’s  querry, when he reminded him that the Devas had failed to take Lord Ganeshas blessings before embarking on the battle, hence the defeat.


So this time around,  Shiva sought Ganeshas blessings and Ganesha appeared in the form of this multi headed multi armed Mahaganpati. He granted Shiva a mantra which Shiva chanted before leading his second assault on the Asura. In the battle that ensued Lord Shiva proved  victorious and Tripurasure was anhilated.


Shiva then constructed a temple of Lord Ganesha in Ranjangaon (known then as Manipura) and the Ganpati here came to be known as Mahaganpati or the Great Ganpati. There is also a folklore that a multi headed multi armed idol of Ganpati is hidden under the base of the temple. But the temple authorities deny its existence.



Alongside the temple is also this neatly manicured garden with a water fountain which only adds to the beauty of this place.


It took us an hour to take darshan of the Mahaganpati  and we headed back for Pune , taking with us memories of these two old but distinctly unique temples.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 

A Journey to Saswad : A Photo Travelogue





For all Punekars having a free Sunday and wanting  a days excursion, somewhere in the close proximity of the city, then Saswad is ‘the’ place for them.
Saswad is a town located 30 kms away from Pune city (and 17kms from Hadapsar). 
We left Kothrud at around ten in the morning and it took us an quarter hour drive to reach the outskirts of Saswad.
Saswad is a town steeped in history. Its every nook and corner has its own story to tell. 
Saswad was the place, where the first Peshwa from the Bhat family, Balaji Vishwanath, breathed his last. 
As did Sant Sopandev, the brother of Sant Dnyaneshwar, who took his samadhi in this town and thus sanctified it.
This is the town that bears the samadhis (resting places for the ashes) of bravehearts  like Baji Pasalkar and  Godaji Jagtap who spilt blood to keep the Maratha saffron (flag) flying. 
This was the town of the Peshwa’s aides like Sardar Ambaji Purandare, Sardar Pilaji Jadhav and Sardar Panse.  Their dilapidated wadas (pedhis/small castles) still exist in this town  .
 In the close vicinity of Saswad lies the famous fort of Purandar (eulogised by the valourous deeds of the maratha martyr Murar Baji Deshpande) and the fort of Malhargad (probably the last fort built by the marathas).
But its the temples that we associate most with this town viz. the medieval temples of Sangameshwar, Changavateshwar, Bhairavnath,Nageshwar, Narayaneshwar, the Ekamukhi Datta mandir, and the most recently constructed Prati Balaji temple at Kapurhol (Kapurhol was the hometown of Dharau, the nursemaid of Sambajiraje, son of Shivaji), hardly 20 kms away from Saswad (It can be accessed from Pune Bangalore highway as well).


One has to pass through the famous mountain pass ,Dive ghat which connects Pune to Saswad.
The journey through Dive ghat was particularly pleasurable. The monsoons had just arrived and had sprinkled greenery all over the region. I realised that the roads which were once quite narrow and steep had been widened through some recent construction activity and the traffic (especially the plying trucks) had quite easened out.
Saswad is situated at the end of Dive ghat and at an higher altitude from Pune city.
Towards the end of the Dive ghat I noticed that a small crowd had parked their cars alongside the road and were gazing down below the ghat. Curiousity led us to follow suit.


As I enquired I was told that one gets a vantage view of Mastani Talao (Lake) from this spot. I had read about the Mastani Lake and hastened to have a look.
I was told by an bystander that Mastani Lake was built by Punyashlok Ahilyabai Holkar, the dowager queen of Indore. But I wondered how it had been named after Mastani, the beautiful muslim wife of Peshwa Bajirao I ,who fluttered the maratha flag in the north. ( However after more enquiries I was informed that it had been built by Peshwa Bajirao I himself and that explained the Mastani link).


I clicked a few photographs from the place. The Mastani Lake is an artificial lake running in a few acres and is surrounded by a circular stone wall .
 In the midst of the wall one sees a small temple. The lake was surrounded by lush green fields and provided a pleasant sight.
As I drove further, I passed through the concrete habitation of Saswad. I took a right towards the road that goes to the Purandar fort.


Hardly half a kilometer away I encountered the Sangameshwar temple. It was built across a canal which was said to be the confluence of rivers Karha and Chambli.


I crossed a bridge. As I looked across I got my first glimpse of the Sangameshwar temple. I stopped the car and clicked some pictures of what can be called the façade of the temple.



There is an immediate left (U turn) from the bridge which takes one through a narrow road, towards the Sangameshwar temple. 
One passes the Karhadevi temple and the Balaji Vishwanath samadhi (something which I saw after seeing Sangameshwar to my hearts content) as we reach Sangameshwar.


The Sangameshwar temple is built over a stone ghat. We climbed a few stone steps to reach the temple.


Just at the entrance of the temple was this beautifully ornamented stone Nandi idol, albiet damaged at the face.


The temple appeared to have been painted in a unique colour (creamish orange?). The colour ofcourse appeared worn out and I figured that no painting has been done in the recent past.
As it is, I am not in favour of old historically dated temples being painted, as I believe that they ought to be preserved in their original form.
The Sangameshwar temple is atleast 12-13th century.


The sabhamandap appears Yadav-kaalin (the Yadavas were the ruling dynasty of this region between 9th and the 14th century)and made from black stone. 



The temple is flanked from either side by two tall shikharas emanating from two minor temples built at a lower level than the main temple. 







One can get to view these shikharas from a close distance (from the side walls of Sangameshwar).



The temple is divided into a Ardha mandapa, a sabhamandapa and the garbhagriha.


There is an huge ornate Nandi in the ardhamandapa porch .The porch ceiling is further supported by wide  layered columns.


The wall dividing the sabhamandapa and the ardhamandapa has two devokoshatas.



Each having a idol of Lord Ganesha, the elephant god of wisdom and Lord Hanumana, the monkey god of streangth.


There is a intricately carved Ganesh door frame between these two devkoshtas, which leads  you to the sabhamandapa (assembly hall). The sabhamandaps are often used for village congregations, functions and festivals.


The sabhamandapa (which can be termed as an antarala or vestibule in this case) is again very splendid with carved columns, an floral hollow ceiling and the typical tortoise carved on the floor.


The tortoise symbolises the control over ones passions  and can also be called the Kurma avatar , one of the dashavatars of Lord Vishnu in a tortoise form.


After the sabhamandapa, is a dark cellar which constitutes the garbhagriha (sanctum). It houses the swayambhu (natural form) Shiva Linga, the phallic representation of Lord Shiva. I chanted ‘Har Har Mahadev’ (Hail Lord Shiva) and bowed in obeissance before the Lord almighty.




The temple’s shikhara is composed of several spires surrounding the main spire which is a bulbous dome with a finial and built in the devali style whereas the main vimana/mulaprasada (superstructure) which  adorns the gabhara section is built in the nagara style and is taller compared to the other spires and more decorated. The vimana signifies reaching out to God.









There are figurines of various deities carved over it. 


Unlike the portion from (and below) the entablature which is made from stone, the shikhara portions are made from lime and gypsum (perhaps coated over the brickwork) and are completed with stucco work. 
The shikhara work seems to be more Peshwa-kaalin i.e post 18/19th century (Peshwas were the prime ministers of the Maratha kings of the region) . The same is seen in the adjoining minor temples as well.


The temple has some admirable deepamalas which stand tall in the green background. 
These deepamalas have several stands meant for deepas (lamps) that can be placed on them, during festivals.


There is also a Tulsi vrindavan (Tulsi / Basil is the sacred plant having medicinal properties found outside evry hindu home and temple) which has a small Shivalinga in one of its niches.



On the left hand side, I found some stairs leading down to the ghat (stepped platform/embankment across a pond or a river) below.


We could see the river stream amidst the green vegetation. There was also a small bridge made across the stream .The view was indeed scenic.



Across were two temples facing each other. One being the earlier mentioned minor temple (Which also turned out to be a Shiva temple with a ornate nandi standing guard outside the temple). 
Facing it was another temple. We didn’t go inside as some village folks had already crowded around it.


Towards the extreme left we also found some more minor mandir like structures (or were they samadhis?). As we were in a hurry to see the other temples around Saswad, we left these uninvestigated.


While climbing back I noticed an arcade like structure. It was probably constructed as a resting room for the devotees.
After a satisfying survey of Sangameshwar temple we decided to make an exit to see other sights.


Pic:samadhi of Sardar Godaji Jagtap


Once outside the temple I expressed my desire to see the samadhi sthal of Peshwa Balaji Vishwanath.
I found the entrance was locked. Some bystanders told me that the keys are available in the house next door. I went over there and requested the people to lend me the keys, so that I can pay my respects to the first Peshwa. They were kind enough to agree.


As soon as I opened the gate, I found that some local kids on the pretext of showing me around had accompanied me inside. But once they were inside, to my horror, they busied themselves, plucking roses from a beautiful garden inside. I severely reprimanded them , but to no avail. They had already pocketed a few roses and fled away. I now realised why the samadhi sthal was kept in a locked state.



I paid my respects at the samadhi which was a huge rectangular stone and cement construction, perhaps placed over the Peshwas ashes and relics . 
I noticed a signboard which stated that the land for the samadhi sthal was donated by Sardar Purandares descendents and was managed by the Parvati Devdeveshwar sansthan.


The next stop was  the Bhairavnath temple. It seemed to be under renovation. It had a huge stone wall fortifying it. We went past a old wooden door which appeared newly painted in blue. 
We were particularly impressed by a coloured wooden structure that formed the porch. The sabhamandap was made in stone and had the Bhairavnath idol in the gabhara. 
I prayed before the idol before moving to inspect the temple.


The wall has a arcade aisle alongside it which serves as a resting chamber and a huge nagarkhana above the door way.


The temple premises also has several minor temple of Lord Shiva, Lord Ganesha and also a temple dedicated to our planetary deities viz. Shani,Rahu,Ketu,Som etc. There were also idols of Lord Hanuman and Lord Ganesha alongside. 







We prayed before every idol and afterwards clicked photographs around the temple.
As we came outside we saw some deepamalas, though of a smaller size, outside the doorway.


Next to the Bhairavnath temple lies the Purandare school, which had beautifully carved woodwork on its door.


Behind the Bhairavnath temple lies the Purandare wada, which was once the grand residence of Sardar Ambaji Purandare, an close aide and dewan to Peshwa balaji Vishwanath and his son Bajirao I. The wada was built in 1710.
Today all that remains of the wada are its tall stone walls. The monuments inside are all in a dilapidated state. The main entrance has a imposing wooden door with iron spikes (meant to prevent elephant attacks in the medieval times) protruding outside. The gate is flanked by two gigantic bastions wich appeared still intact.


There is also a Ganesh mandir which is a part of the wada.


The Ganesh temple's Shikhara is particularly breathtaking. It is adorned with beautiful scuptures of deities and animals carved in tiers.



After taking our blessings from the God of wisdom, we proceeded to our next sight i.e Changavateshwara temple.


This temple was said to have been built by the famous 'hatyogi' Sage Changadev. A Hatyogi is a person prone to performing severe penances to attain God and wisdom.
Perhaps you recollect the folklore of Sage Changdev and Sant Dnyaneshwar. 
It so happened that the news of Sant Dnyaneshwars miracles had reached the ears of Sage Changdev. 
Sant Changdev was therefore curious to meet Sant Dnyaneshwar ,moreso to verify the facts for himself.
 He proceeded to meet him with his huge entourage of disciples,  holding a snake in his hand and riding a tiger, in full pomp and splendour. 
 When Sant Dnyaneshwar heard that the great sage was coming down to meet him, he said to his siblings that the sage being elder in age, they ought to go forward and greet him themselves. Dnyaneshwar also thought that if the great sage had come down to meet them on a tiger, they too ought to have a suitable vehicle. 
So Sant Dnyaneshwar chanted a few mantras (holy words) and lo, the wall over which they were sitting, ascended up in the air. Thus Dnyaneshwar flew with his brothers and sister all the while sitting on the wall.
Sage Changadeva was so amazed by this miracle, that this aged sage fell at the feet of the teenaged Sant Dnyaneshwar and thereafter became his disciple.
This very Sage Changadev had discovered this swayambhu Shivalinga at this very place and had constructed a temple around it. 



This temple was further renovated by Sardar Purandare and since belongs to his descendents.
The temple itself is located in a picturesque green grove that has a small stream running across it. 
The temple is fortified by a stone wall. There are steps leading you up to the temple.


The temple shikhara portion appears renovated and coloured in bright yellow , while the walls and the portion below is Yaadavkaalin and made by chiselling stone. 


I found a striking resembelence between its construction and the one at Sangameshwar, especially the column structure.
Fortunately, except for the shikhara,  this temple is not painted . 









The walls are replete with beautiful carvings , especially on the pillars. I came across this vanar (monkey) sculpture, a mor (peacock) carving, a sharabha (mystical half bird half beast with magical streangth), a vyaal or a tiger carving, dancing apasaras, wrestling etc.
All these carvings seemed to tell a story from the Indian mythology (e.g vaanars or monkeys are associated with Ramayana).




Here again the Nandi idol was huge and ornamented. 




The antarala has the typical tortoise on the floor and a designed hollow ceiling.




The gabhara  was dark and had this huge Shivalinga visible only by the small glimmer generated by a lamp. I dropped down on my knees and prayed before it with folded hands. I spent a few moments in the solitude of the sanctorum before proceeding to move around the temple.





The courtyard has some beautiful deepamalas and several minor temples.


There was the Gomukh (cow head) spout, to drain out water from the temple.



The temple walls were corrugated (just as in the other Saswad temples) with elaborate carvings . There was an vacant aedicule in the central pilaster, which earlier may have contained an idol.


I spent some time in the serenity of this temple, admiring the beauty around, the green trees, the vales, the flowing water and the blue sky.


Then we proceeded for out next destination which was the Narayanpur Narayaneshwar temple. It is at a distance of twelve kilometeres from Saswad.


This is again a hemadpanthi temple with beautiful engravings on the walls.


The wall structure is fluted and has several aedicules with deity idols placed around it.


The sikhara structure is also very beautiful and very colourfully painted.


The door frame has figurines of deities carved at its base. (To my irritatation it had been coated with white lime).




Outside in the courtyard are nandi idols, tulasi vrindavans, deepamalas, pillar posts and some minor temples belonging to different deities.



After taking leave of this beautiful temple, we were thouroughly famished and did some pait puja (worshipped the stomach) after the ishwar puja (worshipping the gods).
Alongside the Narayaneshwar temple lies the Ekamukhi Datta mandir. Barring my mother who made a quick visit inside, we preferred prayed at the temple from outside as the temple appeared unusually crowded on that day . 
We were also told of the Sopandev samadhi in the vicinity (of Nageshwar mandir). But time was becoming the constraint. Moreover my folks were more keen on Prati Balaji Mandir.
Sopandev was the brother of Sant Dnyaneshwar, the teenage saint and social reformer (mentioned earlier) who attained salvation at a very tender age. Subsequently each of his siblings left their earthly abodes through nirvana, Sopandev being one of them, who took is samadhi at Saswad.


Our final stop was at the Prati Balaji temple. By now, it was almost evening.
Prati Balaji temple is constructed and managed by the Venkateshwara Hatcheries ltd and is said to be a replica of the famed Tirupati Balaji temple. It is located at Kapurhol, around 10kms further from Narayanpur.


One has to pass through a huge decorated torana (arched doorway) to enter the temple premises. 


One first encounters this beautiful Ganesha temple. We took our blessing there before proceeding further.
The Prati Balaji Temple was magnificent to say the least. 


It had this huge Dravida styled shikhara replete with rows of nasis and gavakshas placed one above the other. Each nasi houses a figurine.There are ornate gopurams alongside.The other spires were made in the Vesara style. The entire wall structure is unfortunately covered with tarpaulin and robs the temple of its beauty.
Even photography is not allowed inside the temple . 


We could just click the small Kubera temple at the doorway besides taking photographs of the main temple from a distance. We had to surrender our cameras and cellphones at the entrance before proceeding further. There are security guards everywhere who check you at several points. So incase anyone feels that he can sneak in a camera inside, its not worth it.
But once you are inside the temple your dissappointment goes away.
Prati Balaji is one of the most beautiful temples from the inside. Every wall has a story to tell with figurines carved on every corner.
I must say the temple is very clean and very well maintained so unlike other temples in Maharashtra.
After taking the darshan at Balaji temple,we realised that it was dusktime.
We had our tea at a nearby restaurant and retraced our path back to Pune.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 

Shanivar Wada , Pune : A Photo Feature



Shaniwar Wada lies in the heart of old Pune, in a locality known as Shaniwar Peth . In the medeival times it was earlier called Murshidabad

Note: In close proximity are Ravivar Peth (previously Malkapur), Narayan Peth and Budhwar Peth (previously Mohiabad) .
           'wada' in marathi = citadel

The citadel was constructed in 1732 by Peshwa Bajirao I , the prime minister of the erstwhile maratha king Ch.Shahu. It came around to serve as the Peshwa's official residence (and later as the headquarters of the maratha kingdom post the death of Ch.Shahu).

Note: Shanivar wada is built in proximity to the land where once Shivajis childhood palace Lal Mahal existed (as also a Arab citadel. But we are not sure whether the Arab citadel existed in the same location as the wada).

There is an interesting story behind how the Peshwa chose this site for his residence. Apparently, while on an hunting expedition, Peshwe Bajirao saw an rabbit chase a fox and felt that there was something very special about the land and thus decided to construct his house at that very site.

The land for the same was purchased from many people (its erstwhile owners) including the Zambres,Rangabhat Chitrav, Dhekane and the Kolis.

Its construction work was overseen by one Shivram Limaye Khasgiwale.

Since its foundation stone was laid on ‘Shaniwar’ or a ‘Saturday’(and coincidently, so was its innauguration), the citadel came to be known as Shanivar wada.
There were additions made to its basic structure during the time of the subsequent Peshwas (Nanasaheb Peshwa fortified Shanivar wada).



In 1817, the British Union Jack made way for the Maratha saffron as the Peshwas power waned in the country (During this time the Pune collector-probably the first was one Henry Robertson).
In 1827 (8) it was gutted down in an major fire (allegedly started by the British. They were also accused of making no attempts to douse the fire as Shanivarwada burned for three long days). The premises were then used by the British as a Mamledar Kacheri and later as a mental asylum and a prison.Later the Prince of Wales declared it a heritage site and had some trees planted at the site. Post independence the ruins were converted into a tourist spot by the government of Maharashtra and the Archaelogical department.


Shanivawar wada is constructed on a six acre land (built up 500 ft x 470 ft) in the heart of old Pune city.



The fort walls are 33 ft high and 11 ft in width (a parapet attached to the walls takes one around the palace and its 9 bastions) and 16 ft above foundation.


PIC: DILLI DARWAZA

It has five main gates. The main being ‘Dilli darwaza’ (Delhi Gate, constructed after the death of Chatrapati Shahu) towards the north, which serves as the main gate. It has strong gigantic teak doors with steel frames, fortified by long spikes, to prevent elephants from breaking open the doors . There are machicolation chutes (vents) provided to pour down hot liquids on a raiding army.The main door has a smaller man-sized door (wicket gate or Dindi darwaza) for daily entries and exits and also small enough to prevent a large army from barging in.Fifty odd sentries were said to guard the Dilli darwaza.Just above the Dilli gate is the Nagarkhana (which survived the fire).


The northern walls also has the ‘Mastani darwaza’ (Mastani Gate), later renamed Alibahaddur (Mastanis grandson) darwaza, which was said to have been used by Mastani, Peshwa Bajirao’s concubine, to come and go out of Shaniwar wada.


Then there is the ‘Khidki darwaza’ (Window Gate) in the east and ‘Ganesh darwaza’(Ganesh gate) in the south east, facing the Ganesh Rang Mahal , and used by the ladies of the house to visit the Kasba Ganpati temple. The Khidki Darwaza was also called Kavathi darwaza , because of its presence near a Kavathi(wood apple) tree. It was guarded by 15 sentries. The Ganesh Darwaza was guarded by around 25 sentries and the Mastani darwaza by 10 guards. In all there were said to be 275 sentries, 500 horsemen, 1000 servants on duty in Shanivar wada (when the Peshwa power was in its prime).


PIC: NARAYAN DARWAZA

The fifth gate was the Jambhul darwaza (or the berry Gate, also known as Natakshala darwaza), used for letting in concubines and dancing ladies. It was later renamed as Narayan darwaza, after the gate was used to take away Peshwa Narayanraos corpse for cremation.



After entering through the Dilli darwaza and turning left, one can see the ruins of what was once the Mastani Mahal (next to it is the Mastani darwaza), which was habitated by Mastani.Next to it was the Goshala (where the cattle was housed).

Pic: Chiman baug

Moving further one encounters the ruins of Ganesh Rang Mahal (constructed by Peshwa Balaji Bajirao) which hosted religious ceremonies , various functions and provided audience for the people. It had a huge hall.As per the written records, the second floor had a Ganesh idol. The halls were said to have huge curtains and there was a presence of beautifull fountains.Facing the Ganesh Ranga Mahal was a garden called Chimanbaug.However all that remains of Ganesh Ranga Mahal are ruins of a verandah where the Peshwas rested.




Then there was Thoralya Rayancha diwankhana which was used as a courtroom by Peshwa Bajirao I. There was also a Naachaachaa diwankhana or the dance (courtesan) floor. Then there was a Juna Aarsaa Mahal or the Old Mirror hall. The other rooms being a dancing hall,Aarse Mahal or hall of mirrors (It was constructed by Nana Phadanvis for his Peshwa, Sawai Madhavrao. It had survived the fire),Dadasaheb(Raghobadada) diwankhana(hall),Thorale rayancha diwankhana(Bajirao I hall),Madhavrao wada (south west next to Chimaji appas wada), Narayanraavaancha mahal (Narayanraos hall),Kushaba Haibatsingh mahal (Kushaba was the son of Haibatsingh an illegitimate son of a Peshwa from a concubine. This house was next to the old Aarsa mahal), Hastidant mahal (ivory hall),Homshala (place for lighting the ritual fire facing Bakuli chowk, which had a Bakul flower plantation),Amrutrao Peshwa (Raghunathraos adopted son) hall(facing an well plastered with lime), Godubai (Bajirao I's aunt, wife of Balaji Vishwanaths elder brother. This was next to Amrutrao hall) chowk,Gadichi jaga (where Peshwas sat for their daily durbar. This was somewhat centrally located),dining hall,Gauri shrine (south),Badami Fountain,Pushkarni fountain,servants quarters (south), offices,treasury (centre),agnikund,store rooms,grainary (north west),record rooms,armoury,library and medicene room,Jawahirkhana or jewellery room, horse stables(north west, next to the grainary. the elephants were also kept in the stables),water tanks,wells etc.


As one enters the main gate, you come across an ancient cannon showcased on the ground floor of the Nagarkhana,( besides smaller cannons at the access of the palace gardens).



The main building is storeyed and alligned with the ramparts of the palace walls. A stone staircase takes you to the main gallery, from where you can see the surroundings of the city from one end and the palace precincts from the other end. Adjoining (spiral)stair cases take you through the various watch towers (they are called buruj and are total nine in number, three on each side, except the dilli darwaza side , which has four buruj) of the wada.


PIC: NAGARKHANA GALLERY

The previously existing living areas inside the fort have since been destroyed and we can only imagine how they looked from the descriptions available.
There were engraved teak arches, doors and railings (The Teak used was from the jungles of Junnar). The residential quarters were made from Suru wood. The floor was said to have been made from polished marble and the building stones, lime quarried from the nearby areas (Chinchwad,Jejuri). The walls were adorned with beautifull paintings depicting stories from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata (by Bhajiraj). There were crystal chandeleirs that hung from the ceilings and the floors were covered by rich Persian rugs besides exquisite fountains and reservoirs. The construction cost of Shaniwarwada was said to be Rupees sixteen thousand one hundred an ten, a princely amount for those days. The buildings are said to have been designed and constructed by many well-known artisans, including Shivaram Krishna, Devaji, Kondaji Sutar, Morarji Patharwat Bhojraja (an inlay-work expert from Jaipu) and Ragho ( painter).
[Information source: Shanivarwada by Ramesh Newase, Peshwe gharaanyaacha itihaas by P Oak, VirtualPune and Wikipedia]


PIC: HAZARI KARANJA

The Shaniwar wada also has the famous ‘Hazari Karanja’ (pronounced Hazaari Kaaranjaa meaning a ‘Thousand fountains’), constructed for the pleasure of the infant Sawai Madhavrao Peshwa. It was designed in the shape of a sixteen petal lotus, each petal having sixteen jets with an eighty foot arch. Facing it was a marble statue of Lord Ganesha surrounded by a scenic flower garden.



There are also remnants of the quarters (behind the residing quarters of Madhavrao peshwa)of Chimaji Appa , the brother of Bajirao I, later occupied by his son Sadashivraobhau and his family. There are said to be underground tunnels that lead to Parvati and Rasta peth, but are since in disuse (said to have been sealed by ASI).



Contemporary Mohameddan reports have described Shanivar wadas appearance as hell from outside but heaven from within, whereas English reports have described the interiors as grand but austere (meeting hall had soft beds draped in white cloth).

The Wada has also witnessed its share of tragedies. The fire notwithstanding (earlier there was a fire in 1791 as well), the Wada has witnessed exile of its last occupant Bajirao II in 1817 and the subsequent replacement of the Keshari zenda(flag) with the British Union Jack. Its also seen the murder of the young Peshwa Narayanrao (in the dancing hall of Ganesh Ranga Mahal) at the behest of his own kins , the accidental death of his son, Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao, who fell to his death from the high palace walls of Ganesh Ranga Mahal, and also the fall of the Bhat Peshwas, from their glory and grandeur.


Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksh
 

Sinhagad Fort : A Photo Feature



Sinhagad ( The Lion's Fort ) , is located at a distance of 35 kms from the city of Pune. It is situated on a hill rising 800 metres above the surrounding countryside.

Pune(Kothrud)-Warje-Uttamnagar-Khadakwasla dam-Donjai-Sinhagad (12km climb).

Note: A tar road takes one around the hill, right upto the maachi.

Earlier it was known as Kondhana (a.k.a Kandakala) after Sage Kaundinya who was said to have meditated there.
Though the fort is said to be almost two thousand years old, its fortification may have started in the fourteenth century. It was then in the occupation of the local Koli tribes under Koli chieftain Nag Nayak, until the fort was captured by Muhammed Bin Tughlaq in 1328.
Later the fort came in possesion of the Nizamshahi of Ahmednagar and remained with them for a considerable time (there is a mention of Burhan Nizamshah having imprisoned a rebellious sardar,Nasir Ul Mulk on Kondhana. Shah Muhammed the sardar of Hussain Nizamshah (son of Burhan Nizamshah), had Nasir Ul Mulk killed, after he had made an unsuccessfull attempt to side with Hussains rebellious brothers against his Nizam.).
Later the fort passed hands to the Bijapuri Sultanate after the eclipse of the Nizamshahi.
Shivajis aide Bapuji Mudgal Deshpande bribed the killedar (fortkeeper) of the fort , Siddi Ambar and secured the possesion of the fort for Shivaji (in 1647). In 1649, Adilshah of Bijapur imprisoned Shahajiraje (father of Shivaji) and Shivaji had to hand over the fort back to Adilshah in order to secure his fathers release. But he captured it once again in 1656. The fort faced many unsuccessfull mughal attacks, until the Purander treaty, whereby, cornered, Shivaji handed Kondana over to Mirza Raje Jaisingh, the commander of the Mughal forces.
One of the most famous battles (Battle of Sinhagad) for Sinhagad was fought to recapture the fort by Tanaji Malusare, a commander of Shivaji (in March 1670). It is generally believed that it was after this battle that the Kondhana fort was renamed as Sinhagad, in the memory of Tanaji Malusare, after Shivaji nicknamed Tanaji as 'the lion' (Sinha), for having spearheaded the attack and dying a martyrs death.
But some Shivkaalin documents ,uncovered, have proved that the name Sinhagad existed well prior to Tanajis death.
Sinhagad was then under the control of its killedar, Udaybhan Rathod, a brave and fierce Rajput warrior.
A legend has grown that upon hearing of Tanaji's death, Shivaji remorsed with the words "Gad ala pan Sinha gela" (The fort has been captured but the lion has been lost).But that is more due to a novel by author H.N.Apte , having a similar sounding title.
As per Sabhasad bakhar ,an old treatise on Shivaji, the king was said to have retorted, 'Ek gadh aalaa pun ek gadh (fort) gelaa," meaning one fort was won, but another was lost.
Sabhasad bakhar even contradicts another popular folklore, that Tanaji climbed the fort with the help of a 'Ghorpad' (a mountain monitor). But Sabhasad bakhar nowhere mentions the use of a 'ghorpad', but rather mentions Tanaji and his mavalaas having climbed the fort similar to vaanars (monkeys).
Shivaji then awarded the 'killedari' of the fort to Suryaji Malusare, the brother of Tanaji, who had also actively participated in the attack along with their maternal uncle Shelar mama. They had continued the onslaught after Tanaji was killed.It is said that after Tanaji succumbed, it was the old Shelar mama that continued the fight with Udaybhan Rathod and struck him dead.
Tanajis young son, Raiba and his family were gifted the villages below the fort in reward for Tanajis services.
After the death of Sambhaji Maharaj,his lieutenant,Santaji Ghorpade carried out a daring raid on the mughal emperor,Aurangzebs personal camp and after creating chaos, it was in Sinhagad that, Santaji sought refuge.
The fort remained in Maratha hands till 1689, until it was captured by Aurangzeb.
In 1693, Marathas under Sardar Naavji Balkawde and Sardar Vithoji Kaarke (both pancha hazari infantry division heads) recaptured Sinhagad in an equally daring and breathtaking attack on the fort.
Shivajis younger son , Chatrapati Rajaram sought refuge in the fort after being chased by the mughal army, post an raid on their camp at Jalna. Just before the Jalna raid, Rajaram had personally taken part in extensive campaigns in Marathwada and Khandesh. This took its toll on the king and Rajaram died due to a stroke after vommitting blood on the Sinhagad fort premises.This was in the year 1700.
In 1703 , Aurangzeb recaptured the fort (he renamed it 'Bakshindabaksh' or reward of the Gods) after a long seige, but in 1706, it once again passed into Maratha hands due to the efforts of Trimbak Shivdev Mutalik, Pant Pratinidhi and Ramji Phatak.
The ‘killedari’ (guardianship of the fort) was entrusted with Shankaraji Narayan Sachiv and remained so with two of his subsequent heirs viz.Narayan Shankar and Chimnaji Narayan .
Chimnaji Narayan came into conflict with the then erstwhile Peshwa, Nanasaheb, after the former joined forces with Rani Tarabai against her tussle with the Peshwa. As a result the occupancy of Sinhagad was taken over by the Peshwas themselves.
Whenever the Peshwai faced any impending danger, the Peshwas always trusted the safe confines of Sinhagad to guard their wealth and their deities.Whether it was when the Nizam raided Pune or when it was during the attack of Janoji Bhosale , after he drew swords against the Peshwa.
It was in the Sinhagad fort that Peshwa Bajirao II sought refuge when Yeshwantrao Holkar was ravaging Pune. It was through Sinhagad that the Peshwa Bajirao II escaped to Vasai to sign his infamous treaty with the British, to seek their protection against Yeshwantrao Holkar.
The fort remained with the marathas until 1818, after which the British occupied the fort after a seige of almost three months.
One can see Tanaji Malusares samadhi on the fort and also the samadhi of his adversary Udaybhan Rathod. The samadhi of Rajaram Maharaj can also be found on this fort.
The bungalows of Lokmanya Tilak (something he purchased after his prison sentence in Mandalay jail) and famous Marathi Poet G.D. Madgulkar (Ga Di Ma ) are also located on the fort. It was on this fort that Lokmanya Tilak wrote his famous book, ‘Arctic home in the Vedas’. It was on this fort that Mahatma Gandhi sought audience with Lokmanya Tilak to discuss the political future of India. It was on Sinhagad that Subhaschandra Bose temporarily resided during his stay in Pune.
Dev Take - famous tank with sweet and cold water - is popular amongst the tourists.
Sweet curd, Buttermilk,and maharashtrian delicacies like Kaanda bhaji and Pithla-Bhaakari of Sinhagad are amongst the main attractions for the people.
There is also a small temple dedicated to lord Kondaneshwar (Shiva) besides a Sati temple (Saticha haath) on the fort.


Pic: Pune Darwaza , the main entrance


Pic: One of the entrances


Pic: One of the entrances



Pic: Balekilla

Pic: Hanuman mandir built by Ramdas swami

Pic: Toffkhana , place to store gunpowder


Pic:Ghodyachya Paga or Horse stables


Pic: Tanaji Malusare samadhi






Pic: Kalyani Darwaza (that leads one down to Kondhanpur village).


Pic;Tanaji kada


Pic: Dev Talao (Hatti Talao) a water reservoir/tank

Pic: Ganesh talao


Pic: Amruteshwar temple

Pic: Kondaneshwar temple

Pic: cannon channel

Pic: Lokmanya Tilak samadhi and bunglow


Pic: Chatrapati Rajaram samadhi

Pic: Udaybhan Rathod samadhi


[Text Information source Maharashtra Tourism site, Kondhana by Mahesh Mangesh Tendulkar and Wikipedia, Photograph source Abhijit Rajadhyaksha]
 
 

Parvati Temple, Pune : A Photo Feature



PIC: source.punelifestyle AN OLD PICTURE OF PARVATI HILL 

Parvati temple is constructed on a hill at what used to be the Parvati village. Parvati village finds mention in records dating back to the time of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. Chatrapati Shivaji had granted village Parvati in an inam to one Mudgalbhat Purandare, whose descendents inhabit the area (till date).
Today Parvati lies right in the midst of Pune city.
Parvati temple was constructed in 1749 by Nanasaheb Peshwe (I) a.k.a Balaji Bajirao, supposedly at the behest of his mother Kashibai. She had earlier recovered from her ailment, after praying to the Godess of  Parvati Hill.
It then used to be a small temple, but Nanasaheb Peshwe converted it into a much bigger complex. It hosted temples belonging mainly to Lord Shiva the ‘kuldaivat’ (family deity) of the Peshwas, lord Ganesha (God of knowledge and a son of Shiva), Godess Bhavani (an incarnation of Godess Parvati, the consort of Shiva), Lord Vishnu,Lord Surya (Sun God), Lord Kartikeya (the God of War and the eldest son of Shiva), and Lord Vithoba (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu) and Godess Rakhumai (Rukmini an incarnation of Godess Laxmi the consort of Vishnu).
The Shiva temple is built as per the Panchayatana tradition, whereby, besides the main temple of the Kuladaivat , there are four more minor temples of other deities built around in a clockwise pattern ( representing the five elements ). Here the main temple belongs to Lord Shiva , while around it are the four minor temples belonging to Ganesha (housing the idol donated by the Peshwas viz. Sadarecha Ganpati, 'sadarecha' meaning 'the one at the entrance'),Bhavani,Vishnu and Surya.
 The Kartikeya temple and another one for Lord Vishnu were latter additions  and are located in different premises.


PIC: STAIRS TO PARVATI TEMPLE

The temple is constructed around 2100 feet above sea level. To reach the temple, one has to climb a hundred and three (103), quarried black stone steps, which are long and wide, making the access less steeper and a lot easy.


The temple Shikharas are built in accordance to the Devali - Nagara style which originated in the Maratha-Deccan region. There is a blend of Marathi architecture as seen in the Vithoba Rakhumai temple and the north Indian style as in the older temples (but the Mandapa is as per Marathi traditions), with the façade being made the Rajasthani way as can be seen from the Devedeveshwara temple.


PIC: VITHOBA RAKHUMAI TEMPLE

On entering the Parvati temple premises, you are faced with the temple of Vithoba Rakhumai built in Maratha style. The Vithoba Rakhumai temple was constructed as late as 1931, by one gentleman, Shri Ganesh Govind Mudgal.


PIC: FACADE OF THE DEVEDEVESHWARA TEMPLE

To the immediate right, there is a way that takes you to the Devedeveshwara Shiva temple. There are two stone images of Dwarpals (Gatekeepers, Jai Vijay as per the scriptures) guarding the temple in typical hindu tradition.


PIC: MAIN SHIVA TEMPLE

It was said , when Chatrapati Shahu died, his Peshwa Nanasaheb had placed his wooden sandals in the temple in order to worship them , thus proclaiming his devotion for his deceased master.


The original idols of the Gods (Shiva,Parvati and Ganesh) were said to be made of pure Gold. In 1932, these idols were stolen ( speculation was rife that it was in connivance with the British Government authorities). They were later replaced with Brass idols for Parvati and Ganesha and a silver idol for Shiva, by the then trustee of the temple, Rao Bahadur Vaidya. Alongside the statue of Shiva Parvati and Ganesha is a Shivlinga made from a reddish black stone.


The Kalasha of the temple was also said to have been made of gold. When Nizam of Hyderabad , ransacked the temple, he is said to have carried away the gold Kalasha. But Madhavrao I subsequently replaced it in 1768 with all religious rites.
The thread ceremony or 'Munja' ceremony of the Peshwa Sawai Madhavrao was also conducted in these premises by Nana Phadanvis who also acted as the young Peshwas guardian and adviser.


PIC: VIEW FROM THE PARAPET OF DEVEDEVESHWARA TEMPLE


The ramparts of the temple are made in the Rajasthani style, with the main balcony being in the 'meghdambari' style (a umbrella like structure) on the upper floor. From there one gets to see a panoramic view of Pune city.


PIC: PANORAMIC VIEW OF PUNE CITY FROM THE BALCONY OF DEVEDEVESHWARA TEMPLE

It is said the Peshwa Bajirao I watched the proceedings of the battle of Kirki from this place. A parapet-aisle adjoining the walls was created to move around the temple.
There was also said to be a Jamdarkhana to the left of the temple, which exists no more. Valuables and weapons were said to have been stored there.
There also exists a Tal ghar or secret basement in the temple, which offered security to the people in case of an attack. It was rumored that there was a secret tunnel there which started from Parvati and ended in Shaniwar wada (palace of the Peshwas).Peshwa Bajirao II is said to have escaped from that tunnel after seeing the maratha army's defeat at the hands of the British. But rumours of a tunnel have been dismissed as baseless by temple authorities from time to time.
Towards the left of the main temple is a small temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the son of Lord Shiva.


PIC: NANDI

 Just outside the main temple you will see a large stone statue of Nandi maharaj (the Bull which is traditionally Lord Shivas mode of transport).


PIC: DUAL ARCHED ENTRANCE TO KARTIKEYA , VISHNU TEMPLE AND NANASAHEB SAMADHI PREMISES

Towards the left of theVithoba temple you are led towards the temples of Lord Kartikeya and Lord Vishnu , through a beautifully engraved dual arched doorway built in Greco-Roman traditions.
 The Kartikeya (also known as Shadanan, whereas the South Indians know him as Subramanya or Murugan) temple was constructed by Raghunathrao Peshwe, the controversial uncle of the third Peshwa Nanasaheb.
During the attack of the Nizam,the idol was broken so, Peshwa Madhavrao I had it replaced through his minister Nana Phadanvis.
It was replaced again in 1791, after a lightening bolt destroyed the temple(though the idol was spared).
In 1867, the right hand of the idol was damaged in an accident, hence a new idol was again installed in 1869.
As per tradition , the ladies dont worship Lord Kartikeya except in the month of Kartik as he is also considered as the 'bachelors' god.


 PIC: KARTIKEYA TEMPLE

The old wall surrounding the Kartikeya temple has made way for a new one, excepting at the rear, where the walls still exist as was in the Peshwakaalin days , probably for posterity and testimony to those times.



PIC: VISHNU TEMPLE

Next to it is the temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
It has a single Vishnu idol (because the idol of his consort Godess Laxmi) couldnt reach the instalation time. Hence the then Peshwa Madhavrao I decided on the installation of a single idol of Vishnu.
 The idol is seated on a Laxmi Yantra.
The Vishnu idol is made from Gandaki Shaligram shila stone (from the river gandaki. It was a gift from the King of Nepal to Peshwa Madhavrao along with a Shaligram stone with a silver encasing placed on a Garuda statue in the sanctum sanctorum along with the Madhav or Vishnu idol) with Lord Vishnu in all its glory with four arms holding four objects viz. Shankha(Conch),Chakra(whirling sharp edged discus weapon),Gada(mace), Padma(lotus) and wearing the garland Vaijayanti. in front of the main vishnu temple is a small minor temple of Garuda Maharaj (Eagle, as is the vehicle of Vishnu).
There is also a black wooden lacquor painted statue of Balkrishna as a crawling toddler.This statue was procured by Trimbakrao Mama Pethe the maternal uncle of the Peshwa during his Karnataka expedition and later presented to the Peshwas.
Also alongside is a Shaligram stone in an intricately carved silver casing , which is placed on a beautifully engraved Garuda seat.
Then there is a grinding stone which was presented to the temple by the Patwardhans of Sangli.




PIC: NANASAHEB PESHWA SAMADHI MONUMENT

As one comes out of Lord Kartikeyas temple, towards the immediate left is a Tulsivrindavan facing a monument dedicated to Nanasaheb Peshwa. This monument has been constructed on the place where Nanasaheb breathed his last, probably out of shock from the aftermath of the debacle at Panipat and thedeaths of his eldest son Vishwasrao and his cousin Sadashivrao bhau.


PIC: NANASAHEB SAMADHI

This monument hosts the Samadhi of Nanasaheb Peshwa and the room walls are adorned with the portraits of the Peshwa.
There are portraits of Balaji Vishwanath, Bajirao I, Nanasaheb,Raghunathrao,Madhavrao , Narayanrao,Sawai Madhavrao, Bajirao II and Nanasaheb II.
There are also portraits of Bajirao I’s valourous brother Chimaji appa and his son Sadashivrao bhau who was martyred at Panipat.
In the same room there is a display of some Peshwakaalin artifacts like sword hilts, perfume bottles, perfume containers made from camel intestines, caskets, vessels,whips, chains,locks, maratha attire, brahmin headwear etc.
There used to be a kitchen where 'naivedya' or offerings to the Gods were prepared. It was a part of the Peshwa mansion which existed then, but has since been renovated and modernised.


To the imediate left of the Vishnu temple, we find a gazebo enclosed in an open garden adorned by trees around its periphery.This also serves as a place for people to exersise amidst fresh air, students to study in its serenity and love birds to kootchie coo in its seclusion.
Then there is the Ramana temple at the foothills of Parvati which presently is a Ganesha temple, but in the past it also served as a place where dakshina / prizes were awarded to the Brahmin community (on basis of their knowledge and stature in society) during the Peshwa times.


PIC: PESHWA MUSEUM

Next to the Vithoba temple is the Peshwa museum which was built on the premises of the Peshwa mansion which had originally been built in 1795.
 The entrance has a Ganesh statue errected , made of beautifully carved white marble.
This museum has been specially constructed to display items belonging to the Peshwa era like palanquins,Pachisi board (Chaupat)game, utensils, arms and ammunition (like old matchlock guns, swords,khanjirs,katars,axes,ankush to control elephants and spears), portraits of Peshwas and their commanders, paintings,pictures,idols, sculptures,veergals (hero's stone) jewellery, headwear,armour etc .
These artefacts reflect the life of the Peshwas and their men as it was during those times .


Reference: Historical account of temple of Parvati by V.K.Nulkar, Shri Devadeveshwar Sansthan, Parvati, Pune.
Text & Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
 
 
 

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