Tuesday, January 13, 2026

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Hanoi & Ninh Binh: Mist, Aroma & Legacy

diksha iyer

As I squinted my eyes and peeked outside the tiny flight window, the amber horizon lined around the clouds. We landed on a misty morning in Hanoi. The roads were moist and the cool wind gushed. The weather had taken the shape of a familiar hill station – giving a sense of familiarity, yet the feeling of the unknown. The mist wandered as the morning unfolded. From our hotel balcony that faced the streets of Old quarters, bicycles with figures in their conical hats rolled along, coffees brewed in the nearby cafes and slowly the city awakened. 

Hanoi, Vietnam

It was a tiring night-long journey in VietJet flight, where leg-space was not a concept. Being an itinerary driven traveller, I was derailed by two things – one that I would have to ‘waste’ a couple of hours sleeping, two – I was heavily sleep deprived to even take a step out. 

But fortunately, after a hearty breakfast and a couple of hours of sleep, we were ready to roll. Since we love exploring cities on foot, we decided to walk the city.

Our first destination, Temple Of Literature, was slightly away, so we took a cycle rickshaw, which did charge us a ton of money.

The complex unfolded itself with every courtyard. An ode to education and learning, this historical complex is a testament to the importance of education and most importantly morals and ethics which have been passed down generations in the country. Towards the end is a Pagoda dedicated to Confucius, where the energy shift is prominently felt. The complex also has hands-on calligraphy opportunities.

Stelae: The names engraved are of those who successfully passed the intense examinations
conducted by the mandarins. 

On our walk back amidst the tapering lanes, it was heartening to see stores carrying postcards, artwork, handicrafts and potteries. Multiple Silk boutiques and tailors lined up too, with the spotting of food stalls. A food stall popped up after every hop. But if you are a vegetarian, then maybe not after every hop for you. However, we did end up finding quite a few vegetarian options (not exclusive vegetarian joints) and stopped for interesting snacks that we found on the way.

Kẹo kéo
Mango Cheese Cream Puffs at Beard Papa’s

The road took us to the Hoan Kiem Lake area – where a different world unfolded. Musicians singing, locals taking a stroll, bicycles rolling, people sipping coffee besides the lake or just being. Being from Mumbai, looking at an open space is enough to fascinate you. The idea of having a space built just to rejuvenate and relax is an attraction. There was something that made the area so soothing and pleasing that we ended up taking walks there every day. 

At a walking distance from Hoan Kiem lake is Cafe Giang, the creator of Vietnam’s signature Egg Coffee. A narrow alley transfers you to the warm and rustic vibe of the 70s. The walls and the wooden furniture would have been weathered by all the stories and conversations shared by the locals and the curious tourists. The smell of the coffee travels around the room as waiters run around the room with trays of Egg coffee, adding to the old-school vibe. 

Vietnamese Coffee and Egg Coffee (bottom)
Cafe Giang

The taste of the egg coffee was nothing like we expected. The sweetness from the foam that dissolved as it touched the tongue savored our mouth. At the same time, the robustness of the coffee balanced it beautifully. It definitely was worth trying, but not something you could savour everyday.

We also tried the Vietnamese Coffee, a combination of espresso and condensed milk. A little strong for my taste, but for someone who doesn’t drink black coffee, it was not too bad either. 

The rest of the evening was spent walking the bylanes of old town, surfing the Shoe Street for some first copies, trying out street food and finally ending our night at MET restaurant for a Vietnamese meal. Not only was everything we ordered delicious, but it was also served with affability and a smile.

DAY 2

The next day started with a hearty omelet and coffee at the Haibay hotel. Somehow everything tasted better and more refreshing. After an eased up first day, we were all set to explore the city today. 

Riding into the wave of motorbikes that dominate the streets we first stopped at St. Joseph’s Cathedral.

The striking and rugged neo-gothic cathedral stands testament to the French colonial period of Vietnam. Today what lies in the backdrop of a bustling street was the first church built by the French in Vietnam. Choose to attend a mass, admire the architecture from up close or admire it while driving past it, but definitely add it to your path. 

The next stop, One pillar pagoda, built between 1028 to 1054, symbolizing a lotus, blossoms right behind the concrete soviet style Ho Chi Minh Museum. The pagoda complex enriches you with verdant trees, a mystical atmosphere and also some karmic lessons 🙂 There are a couple of mythical theories about why Emperor Le Thanh Tong constructed this pagoda, which eventually was destroyed by the invaders, and then constructed again by the government. 

Karmic Teachings
One Pillar Pagoda
Lotus Pond

Lotus, in Buddhism and Confucius philosophy, is much revered, as it is believed to have the ability to blossom even being in a dirty environment. 

Just nearby is the Mausoleum of Ho, surrounded by a huge square, much like the famous Moscow Square. The wind swoops around the grandeur and the place. The whole area is a strong security and military supported area. The guards do not let you stand on the roads or wait too long. 

On the way back to Old quarters is an expansive lake bordered by the city’s skyline. The water continues to shimmer as you admire nature and the city’s radiance at the same time. The area possesses a much calmer feel, which gets even more serene as you enter the Tran Quoc Pagoda situated on the lake. 

The Bodhi tree welcomes you with a majestic presence. The incense fragrance lured around with the wind that chimed the bells on the bodhi tree. There was a sense of tranquility and peace that oozed out from the walls of the pagoda. It was an ambience that invites you to slow down, breathe and admire the surroundings. 

The Bodhi Tree

Keep in mind not to wear revealing clothes – man or woman – while entering the pagoda. 

Our next stop was the one which symbolises Vietnam’s colonial past as well as the current pop-culture. The revered Train street of Hanoi has made its rounds around the internet for its aesthetics and the thrill. The locals slowly created their life around the tracks which were built by the French, and then over the years when tourists got fascinated by the scene, several cafes popped up on the street. 

Hanoi Train Street
Hanoi Train Street
Hanoi Train Street
Hanoi Train Street

We were fortunate to catch the train on time. Reach the place at least 30 mins before to get a table at the cafe. It truly was a one-off experience. The thrill, the energy and the savouring coffee made it a mental-picture worth moment. 

Slowly as the evening dawned upon us, we headed back to the Hoan Kiem Lake for a walk. The cold winds were back, and so were the locals who gathered around the lake for their weekend rituals. From Friday to Sunday, traffic is banned in this area so that locals can indulge in their fun and fair. Soothing music lured around as some locals danced around. There are several street food stalls in which you can try. We tried almost every egg-tarian stall there was to have. 

At the center of the lake is another beautiful temple – Ngoc Son Temple, a Taoist place of worship. It is believed that Emperor Le was gifted a gold sword by a divine turtle when he was boating at the lake. After victory, when the emperor returned to this lake, the turtle revisited to take back the sword, giving this lake the name Hoan Kiem –  lake of the returned sword.

If stories and culture of a place interests you, then you could definitely go for a water puppet show at the Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre, which is placed right at the lake square. Make sure to book your tickets in advance. We booked it a day prior from the ticket booth. Water Puppet art started in Vietnam as locals tried to make the most during the floods. Today the art form depicts stories portraying local life, culture and the people. The one hour show was a complete dose of entertainment, which also makes you feel strongly connected to the culture of Vietnam. 

Puppet Show

Since it was pretty late by the time the show got over, we grabbed dinner at an Indian restaurant, as that was the only restaurant open. However coffee cafes were still bright and shining till midnight. 

DAY 3

Today was an exciting day. We booked a one-day excursion to Ninh Binh, a countryside couple of hours away from Hanoi. We decided to ditch Halong Bay and instead experience the countryside life and landscapes. Additionally, since the weather was still cloudy with slight drizzles, the Halong Bay experience wouldn’t have been the best. 

The tour was booked through our hotel in a comfortable bus which included tourists from different hotels. The kind staff at the hotel packed for us some croissants and fruits to eat in the bus. Our guide was super welcoming and our day started off on a lovely note. 

The first checkpoint on the itinerary was cycling to Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam. We cycled alongside a river and hills on a curvy hilly road. The drizzles were still pouring, and the chilly winds blew on our faces as we peddled through some of the most serene views.

The verdant hills were shrouded in mist and the river flew endlessly. I am not sure if the rainy weather added to the charm or not, but it definitely deepened the sense of connection to the natural surroundings. The beauty of the ride overpowered the chills that we were subjected to due to the cold wind.   

We parked our bikes at the ancient capital square. The guide took us through the history and the stories that the rugged walls have soaked in over the years. The first capital of Vietnam was built in the 900s and still hosts some Pagodas and temples from that age. It is great to walk around, understand the stories and take some photographs of these timeless and resilient structures. 

Ninh Binh Vietnam
Inside Hoa Lu Complex
Ninh Binh Vietnam
Inside Hoa Lu Pagoda
Ninh Binh Vietnam
Vietnamese Lunch
Hoa Lu Ninh Binh Vietnam

Post this we cycled back to the restaurant where a hearty Vietnamese meal was waiting for us. The next stop was boating at Trang An. 

Soon, we were transported to a sense of calmness rowing with us as we navigated the waters and looked up in awe of the shouldering limestone mountains and the veiled sky. The reflections of the limestone mountains added a tint of green to the waters on which all the boats moved in symmetry. It was fascinating to witness the boats move in order and coordination. 

All of them were rowed by strong women. While some rowed in quietness, some tried to strike a conversation with the tourists, with both parties trying to decipher each other’s language, and others just conversing amongst themselves.  

The one hour ride soothed our minds as we experienced silence and the words of history seeping from the nearby temples at the same time. Next, we headed to Mua Caves. 

While some of the people opted for a trek up the caves to catch the sunset, we went around walking in the fields. The patches of the field have the lushness of post rainfall. The curving pathway took us to the interiors of the fields which did make for great picture points.

After walking around for a bit, gawking at the mountains in the background and admiring the sunset, we headed back to our bus.

We slept through our ride back, and then decided to end the day at Beer street, near Hoan Kiem lake. The midnight bustle was energetic. With chairs and tables lined up on both sides of the street, beer was much sought after a tiring day. The sight of people coming together and having a good time over chilled beer is probably what would have inspired Kingfisher’s tagline

I tried Bia Viet along with some piping-hot bar nibbles and finally wrapped up our last night in Hanoi with warm banana nutella crepes on a chilly night. 

We didn’t expect too much sleep that night, as we packed to catch our late night flight to Danang. I will see you in Danang and Hoi An in my next blog!

Meanwhile, here’s the link to my blog on all the eggetarian dishes we ate in Vietnam:

 
Mango Cream puffs

4. Egg Coffee at Cafe Giang, Hanoi

The unmissable Egg coffee often makes it to everyone’s list. Native to Vietnam, this is made by beating condensed milk with egg and then pouring it over coffee, giving it a custard flavour. Cafe Giang claims to birth this super sweet coffee. The tiny cafe transports you to 1946, the year the cafe was established in. The bustling and the warm atmosphere paired with a lovely cup of coffee will definitely make your afternoon.

Condensed Milk Coffee & Egg Coffee

5. Banh Mi, all parts of Vietnam

This delicious native Vietnam sandwich can be found at almost every nook and corner. Though it is tough to get a fully vegeterian Banh Mi in local stalls, you can try out the Mushroom one from Banh Mi Pho, a chain located at various parts in Hanoi.

Mushroom Banh Mi from Banh Mi Pho

However, our favourite one has to be the egg Banh Mi, customised with our choice of veggies and some cheese from a local cart near Beer Street, on a cold evening.

Egg Banh Mi from a local cart at Beer Street

6. Vietnamese food at MET Vietnamese Restaurant (Hanoi, Hoi An)

We highly recommend MET Vietnamese Restaurant for not only their vegetarian options but also their impeccable service and hospitality. You can find dishes like Pho, fried rice, and some really good starters. Though it is not a all-veg restaurant, they have a detailed vegetarian menu, not easily found otherwise.

Spring Rolls
Egg fried rice and Veg Pho

7. Beer Street, Hanoi

If you are looking for some mid-night bustle, then beer street is the place to be. With chairs and tables lined up on both sides of the street, beer is much sought after by young enthusiasts. The sight of people coming together and having a good time over chilled beer is probably what would have inspired Kingfisher’s tagline 🙂

You can try the local Tiger beer or Bia Viet along with some piping-hot bar nibbles. Do end the day with a chocolate banana crepe from the local vendor.

8. Italian dinner at Olivia, Danang

The coastal town of Danang is known for it’s elaborate sea-food menus. However, if like us you too crave for some comforting pizzas and pastas, then Olivia should not be missed. A tiny place that smells of freshly baked bread and cheese offered warm and homey food, that gave us a needed break from Vietnamese food.

Pesto Spaghetti
Truffle Pizza

9. Danang Night Market

One of my favorite spots to unwind in Vietnam was the Da Nang Night Market. Located near the iconic Dragon Bridge, it’s the perfect place to wrap up an evening stroll along the riverside promenade.

The market unfolds in two parts—first, rows of stalls selling consumerism. Then, as you venture further, you’re greeted by the lively aroma of freshly cooked street food.

If you’re vegetarian, the live seafood stalls might feel a bit overwhelming at first. But, we managed to find some delicious options like vegetable rice pancakes, crispy spring rolls, and Thai-style banana rotis. While not strictly vegetarian by Indian standards (as they may contain traces of egg), they were flavorful and satisfying treats.

10. Fresh fruits (all across Vietnam)

If I had to choose one simple yet unforgettable memory from the trip, it would be snacking on fresh fruits while wandering through the city streets. Fruit vendors are scattered all across Vietnam, and their colorful carts are hard to miss. This year, my first mango of the season was in Vietnam—and it was absolutely delicious

11. Morning Glory (Rau Muống) stir fry

A staple to Vietnam, morning glory has a mild, slightly earthy flavour with some nutty notes. While it does have some bitterness, when stir-fried in garlic, it pairs very well with noodles.

We tried morning glory at a tiny home-style café near Hoi An, based on a recommendation from our cab driver. While it wasn’t my favorite dish of the trip, it was definitely worth trying.

Stir fry morning glory
..with some noodles

12. Street food in Hoi An

Hoi An is a haven not just for art and culture lovers, but also for street food enthusiasts. As the sun sets, numerous carts selling all kinds of food line the riverbanks. We tried grilled bananas with sticky rice, grilled cheese (which was hearty 😊), Nutella banana pancakes, and spring rolls.

What makes the experience truly unforgettable is the combination of floating lanterns drifting by, the rich aromas of street food, the sounds of music in the air, and the lively gatherings of people—all coming together as you enjoy your meal.

Grilled Banana
Grilled Cheese
Grilled Cheese
Nutella Banana Crepe

13. Indian food at Indian restaurants (located in most of the tourist cities)

We found pretty good Indian food in Hanoi, Danang and Hoi An. Namaste Hanoi has been recommended by several tourists.

14. And, of course, loads of coffee all around Vietnam!

PS: Salted Caramel Coffee became my absolute favourite 🙂

This is the delicious journey our taste buds embarked on in Vietnam. If you follow a strict vegetarian diet, your best bets are Indian and vegan restaurants. But if you include eggs in your diet, don’t hesitate to dive into Vietnam’s vibrant street food and local cuisine—they’re absolutely worth trying!

 

Udaipur – Blues, Whites And All Beams

diksha iyer

In 2012, when Naina and Bunny roamed around the streets of Udaipur in reel, the aspiration to travel to Udaipur with friends in real set in. Ten years later, we did make it to the ‘city of lakes’. 

The lakes and the city’s lanes have been so romanticised that they pulled us towards Udaipur. Was it everything that we had expected? Did we get our picture-perfect moment?  

Well, not just that, we got many such moments, so much so that by the time we left, a part of us was left behind. 

Winding lanes, quaint shops, hot-fried food and the welcoming people made it a memorable two days in the lake city. We tried to soak in most of the experiences within the available time – trying out the best restaurants, walking down the streets, basking in the winter sun and shivering in the chilling nights.

Here is how we spent our memorable 48 hours in Udaipur. 

DAY 1:

We took an overnight bus from Ahmedabad, which reached Udaipur at 4:30 am. The auto rode against the chilly winds, making us shiver and wrap ourselves with shawls. It was colder than we had anticipated. We complained about it and yet enjoyed it till our trip’s end. 

We were all geared and excited about starting our tour. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the rooftop restaurant of Panorama Haveli, where we were staying. 

View from Panorama Haveli

Though the food was average, the early morning misty views of the ghats took our attention. 

We walked around the Hanuman Ghat area, admiring the tiny shops and the narrow lanes around the ghat. The jewellery and cloth stores that lined up the streets were exciting to see. 

After arriving at the chowk, we came across a tall marble white structure flaunting itself in the middle of a crowded street. This was the Jagdish temple.

Jagdish Temple is an architectural wonder of the Mewar dynasty, the temple was built by Maharana Jagat Singht-I in 1652 AD. Gorgeous sculptors adorn the walls of the temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is a must-visit.

Walking distance from the temple is the Udaipur city palace. The palace may not wow you as you enter the gates first. However, every step inside will slowly keep taking your breath away.  

The palace was set up to be made when Maharana Uday Singh moved his base to Udaipur. It is said that the first stone was laid in 1559, but it took around 400 years to construct the palace, most of it being carved out of a mountain.   

The palace has an amalgamation of Vedic and Ismalic architecture. Like most of the palaces in India, this one too has a king and queen’s side. The jhalis became prominent after the infamous incident that took place at Chittorgarh. 

Mewar has been the handcrafts capital since the 18th century. Hence, look out for magnificent paintings on the walls and ceilings of the palace. Not only that, the view of Lake Pichola from the palace is worth capturing too. 

paintings on city palace walls

After exploring the various facets of the city palace and living our YJHD moment, our stomachs yearned for some energy. We headed to the popular Khaama Ghani for lunch. 

The restaurant is situated amidst trees and at the edge of the ghat. The restaurant’s calming blue and white colours and the still waters create a perfect environment. We indulged in delicious tandoori chicken and naans. 

Like any other tourist, we wanted to experience the sunset by the lake. We walked around the lake side and spent time in the beautiful white canopies to take the boat ride at sunset. The boat takes you through the pristine blue waters with sprouts of white palaces. As the wind blows through your hair, it makes you just look at the waters, wish time stood still, clear your mind and soak in the beauty the place has to offer. 

sunset boat ride

As the sun set, so did our day. But the most-awaited bucket list spot was still to be covered –  Ambrai, one of the most popular and recommended restaurants in town. Layered with three clothes, we entered Ambrai, hoping to get a place. The temperature was dropping, but our will to sit in this open-air-lake-facing restaurant kept increasing. 

On the way to Ambrai, we also visited the Gangaur Ghat and shopped for some Udaipur prints and memorabilia.

view from the ghat

After waiting for an hour, we got the table that faced the twinkling lights that lined the ghat and cast its shine on the city palace. The food that came along made us lick fingers. 

The laal maas added a burst of flavour and the shahi tukda melted into our mouths. I would travel to Udaipur just to have dinner at Ambrai. 

With that out-of-the-world meal, our Day 1 came to an end. Ready with our next day’s Udaipur outfits, we went to sleep by covering ourselves multiple blankets, with excitement for the next day

DAY 2

The next morning we decided to ditch the hotel breakfast and headed to the streets for some piping hot Rajasthani food. Besides, how could we miss the kachori? On our scooty, we headed to the famous Paliwal Kachori. The cook is known for flipping the kachoris into the oil pans. Just as that spectacle ended, the smell of the kachoris tickled our noses, intensifying our hunger. The kachoris, which emitted aromas, burst into flavours inside our mouths. Someone rightly said, “a good breakfast leads to a good day.”

Our first stop for the day was Saheliyon ki Bari.

Maharana Sangram Singh II built the garden between 1700-1734 for the entertainment of the royal ladies and their maids of honour. Many small gardens that lay below Fateh Sagar Lake were merged into ‘Saheliyon ki Bari’. 

It gives us a glimpse of the bygone lifestyle – the canopies, lotus ponds, fountains and lush greenery. “Only if someone could build us such a garden too,” wondered my sahelis

A large part of the garden is dominated by blue waters, casting white reflections on the canopies and green trees. Some parts are surreal. It definitely is a photography-friendly place. One can spend a good amount of time walking around the gardens. 

There is also a cute art gallery which showcases imaginative scenes of saheliyas enjoying the space in the 1700s. It helps you connect the dots. 

Next, we rode our scooters along the massive Fateh Sagar Lake. It is a good spot to enjoy the sunset behind the hills that cast a reflection on the lake. 

After a sumptuous Rajasthani thali lunch at Natraj Dining Hall, we drove to Bapu Bazaar and Hathi Pole lanes. After a huge search for Udaipur clothes, we finally found something of our choice in a small hidden shop at Bapu Bazaar. We bought some typical Indigo coloured kurtas and more elephant-print shirts. After all, a trip isn’t complete without a satisfactory purchase.

Next was a one hour ride to Sajjangarh Palace. To reach the palace is a challenging drive uphill – a narrow road that swirls around a mountain and is dominated by monkeys, so much so that a money jumped on my friend sitting with the shopping bags on the scooty. 

But as we walked up the fort, the city zoomed out to present a breathtaking view of itself. The lakes, the palace and the entire city presented themselves most splendidly. It is one of the best spots to witness sunset. 

The fort was meant to be a multi-storey observatory tower. But construction ground to a halt in 1884 with the tragic death of young Maharana Sajjan Singh. His successor Maharana Fateh Singh completed the work and built it as a monsoon palace. It is situated 3,100 feet above sea level. 

Since it was a tricky ride down, we started to head towards the base just before sunset.

This time the chilly winds accompanied us too. The temperature started dropping, and the ride back to the hotel became challenging. The hot jalebis on our way back fueled our energy and warmed us up to reach our hotel. 

The dinner was planned at Baro Masi, a newly opened restaurant. It has an elegant rooftop restaurant, and the entire hotel is gorgeously designed. It is an amalgamation of sophistication and authenticity. Though the food and service were average, the lass floor, intricately carved verandas, and the view of the sparkly city lights made the experience worth it.

Interiors of Baro Masi

With this, our short trip to Udaipur came to an end. Those two days were enough for us to fall in love with the city. The structures you see in Udaipur are not just pieces of stones put together, but a storehouse of stories and memories, preserved and cherished for years to come.

Diksha Recommends:

  • Reserve tables at restaurants, especially if you are travelling during peak season or weekends
  • Check in advance if the palace is going to be shut for any private events
  • Carry your student ID card for discounts on the palace entry ticket
  • If you want to skip Jag Niwas, ditch the boat ride offered by the palace, and opt for the one from the municipal boat ride point. It is much cheaper.
  • In case you want to buy artefacts, opt for the local shops run by artists near Hanuman Ghat. Get yourself a Mughal miniature art painting. 
  • Try to reach your destination by walking. You will come across some very pretty lanes. 
miniature paintings
artefacts on sale
 

Nashik – A City Of Enchantments

diksha iyer

Silhouettes of mountains extended far and wide, shades of pink and orange mingled in the sky, and the fiery sun seemed to be bidding goodbye. It was as if the sparkling lights on the mountains were stars on earth, trying to find their way into man’s heart. 

I reflected on this scene on our way back from Nashik to Mumbai. It seemed like a scene from a mythological novel. I wondered whether the imprint was real or something my mind made up just because we had visited a place steeped in mythology! 

Don’t know if mythological stories are real. Probably, we will never know with any finality. But that’s the beauty of these tales. They let you believe that this world is magical. Magic that gives you hope and makes things exciting. Maybe, that is why we get so lost in these stories.

Recently my parents and I decided to take a trip to Nashik. Amidst the Covid traverse, this was a much-needed break.

We had one companion throughout the trip, which flowed in all its serene glory – River Godavari. Our trip naturally started from Trimbakeshwar, which is located close to the Brahmagiri mountain, the source of the Godavari.

Trimbakeshwar will transport you back hundreds of years. This is what I call the magic of temple towns. The smell of sandalwood dingles around as you enter the narrow lane leading up to the temple. It seemed the grey-black shikarwith an orange flag was calling us from the end of the street. Hawkers selling roasted peanuts, wooden toys, incense sticks and diyas lined up throughout the street. We noticed people gathered around carts that served glasses full of hot milk.

As we walked further towards the temple soaking ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere, we came across food vendors serving hot and crispy bajiyas too. The fried bun was a unique variety we had not seen anywhere else.

We finally reached the temple. It stood strong, isolated, and yet seemed so calm. Silhouettes of mountains enhanced the backdrop, making it look like a canvas painting. The closer we got to the temple, the more enhanced the atmosphere became. In the center of the sanctum is the self- emanated Shiva Linga. The Linga is three-faced, signifying The Trinity – Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh.

The temple was constructed by the third Peshwa Balaji Bajirao (1740 – 1760) on the site of an old temple. It is built in black basalt and Nagara style of architecture.

Kushavarta, a kund located close to the temple, contains water from the Godavari River. Around Trimbakeshwar temple are several smaller and rustic temples. They do transport you to a different era.

As the sun set, we followed the flow of the Godavari until we reached its banks – the ethereal Nashik.

Nashik is closely associated with the Ramayana. Recently, I read Chitra Divakaruni Banerjee’s “Forest Of Enchantments”. The book takes us through the life of Sita. The author has written it as a first person account by Sita herself. Since our visit to Nashik, I feel even more connected to the character of Sita as, according to the book, the most glorious times of Ram and Sita were spent in Panchvati, the heart of the Nashik experience. I reflected our visit there, listened to our guide, who enthusiastically took us to spots where Ram, Sita and  and Lakshman spent their time.

In the book Sita describes Panchvati as: “I found the region wild and mysterious but welcoming as well, with its many banyan trees, its shrubs that sparkled with star-like blossoms and its proliferation of mysterious species of animals and birds I’d never seen.” But today most of the area is a proliferation of cement. I wonder if they would have enjoyed staying here today as much as they did earlier!

Nashik is synonymous with Ramkund, a ghat located on the banks of the Godavari. It is exciting to be at the ghat – groups performing puja, kids swimming in the river, vendors selling tea, and  soothing bhajans in the background. Temples with colourful walls stand all along the ghat. If despite the ‘concrete jungle’, oh! I wonder, what scenes Ram, Sita and Lakshman must have witnessed.

The ghat has place where Ram and Sita would go to bathe. Our guide took us through the parapet of the ghat and stopped at a small kund. In a dramatic tone, he said: “Once upon a time, hot water used to flow here and this was the bathing spot of Sita. But with the increase in sins around the world, hot water started turning into cold water.”

In the same dramatic tone he also added: “When the Samudra Manthan (churn of ocean) was taking place, the demon clan caught hold of the pot of amrut. When they were running with this pot, drops of nectar fell on different spots of the land. These are the places where Khumb Mela is held”

A Godavari temple that stood quietly next to us opens up only during the Khumb mela, which happens once every 12 years. The temple also opens on Dussehra every year.

  • Godavari temple
  • Kapaleshwar Temple
  • Inside Kapaleshwar temple complex

Just opposite Ram Kund is Kapaleshwar Temple with an interesting story. While all Shiva temples have Nandi guarding his Lord, this one does not have Nandi. It is said that Lord Brahma had five faces. But one day Lord Shiva got angry with the fifth face, which was for condemnation, and separated that face from Brahma. Because of this Lord Shiva faced the sin of “Brahmahatya”. He roamed all over the universe but couldn’t find a way to get rid of the sin. This is when Nandi suggested to him to take a dip in the Godavari around the Ram Kund. With this, the sin was released. Impressed with Nandi, Lord Shiva considered him as his Guru and decided not to sit in front of Nandi in this particular temple.

Our Ramayana trail continued. Our next stop was the famous Sita gufa located near the five Banyan trees, from whom Panchvati got its name. It is said that this is the place where Sita worshipped Lord Shiva and also from where Ravana abducted her. When you enter the gufa, the path keeps getting narrower, testing your body’s flexibility. Being in a claustrophobic cave with ten other tourists makes you realize how essential oxygen is for our body. This is a place where only a warrior of Mithila could have managed to live for years.

Sita Gufa

Some kilometres away from Panchvati is the Tapovan. Tapovan largely translates to the forest and a precinct which is reserved for meditation and penance. While originally tapovans were developed outside city limits for peace, today the city has managed to spread its branches till there, making most of the area concrete.

I tried to imagine how this area might have looked like thousands of years ago. In the book ‘Forest Of Enchantments’, Sita complains about how distressing it is to see humans take over the forests which are home to the Rakshas clan, birds and animals. I wonder what Sita would say if she was living there even now. 

Tapovan is also the area where Lakshman cut Ravana’s sister Shurpanaka’s nose. Nashik gets its name because of this incident. This one event led to Sita’s abduction and the events that followed built the legend of Ramayana. Today, this place is marked by a concrete slab and a concrete temple, where you will find a statue of Shurpanaka.

  • Place where Lakshman cut Suparnaka’s nose
  • Kunds
Tapovan

Just opposite this temple is the gurgling stream of the Godavari dotted with boulders. A cavernous fissure on these boulders is called Brahma Yoni.

We also visited the Someshwar temple, which is surrounded by several other temples and lush greenery. Located on the banks of the Godavari river and surrounded by greenery, this place acted like a coolant in Nashik’s scotching afternoon heat.

The complex had quant temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Hanuman, and of course Ram and Sita. The Ram-Sita temple looks like one straight from the northern part of India. Its architecture reminds you of the temples you see in TV serials and movies.

If we say there were no mythical stories, then how come we feel so different when we visit such places? We will probably never know. But as I said, there is magic in this universe that binds us all to something much bigger than our comprehension. There is magic to help us connect to these stories and destinations. I am no historian, but a traveller who connects to a destination through its stories.

Are you surprised that the blog is about to end, but there is no mention of food? Well, when you are so steeped in the mythical experience, mundane aspects take a backseat, albeit temporarily. But I won’t disappoint you. A must-visit place for mouth-watering misal pav and ghur (jaggery) – jalebi fried in ghee is ‘Sadhana Chulivarchi Misal’. 

There are other places too to visit in Nashik – Pandav Leni caves, Kalaram Temple, Gangapur Dam, Muktidam, Coin museum, Sundarnarayan Temple, Dadasaheb Phalke Smarak, Sula Vines, and many more…

Here is a link to help you plan your visit better: https://www.thrillophilia.com/places-to-visit-in-nashik

Nashik, for me, however, will always remain an ethereal land.  

 

Karjat: Where thoughts evaporate and reflections rejoice

diksha iyer

There are times when your mind is devoid of any thoughts. This may be because the mind does not want other thoughts to take over the moment and seeks to seize the present. After all, moments do not last forever. 

Blurry eyed, I peeked through the dangling curtains to witness the dawn creep in and turn the sky into shades of orange and yellow. Outside my window, the paddy fields looked green as ever, as if they too had just woken up from a good night’s sleep. They welcomed the morning rays alongside a couple of huts that seemed to be waking up too. Petrichor emanated from the mud and my restless legs looked for the comfort of the sheet. 

While everything around me was welcoming the dawn, how could I continue to sleep? I decided to take a walk around this stand-alone villa that we were living in. Close by was a quaint village,home to just about twenty houses. These huts had mushroomed around the vast paddy field. 

As I walked along the vein-like path of the pseudo forest created in our homestay complex, it was like walking on a palette with different shades of green welcoming you at every step. As they say, there is nothing like an early morning walk – the time when humans are asleep, but birds and nature are in their full bloom. The chirping of birds filled the atmosphere and raindrops started to slide down my cheek. 

I was traveling after a long gap and my mind wanted to seize every moment. It is astonishing how your mind doesn’t let any thoughts disturb it when you are at a place that deserves your wholehearted attention. We are sometimes so anxious to reach the next destination that we forget to look at moments taking shape in front of us. 

As I walked in the village, I was greeted with smiles from locals who were getting ready for their day at the fields. Most of them even asked me if I had visited the river close up, and also advised me not to go for a swim in the deep waters.

The village had a small temple square around which most of the houses were located. The path crisscrossed from the paddy fields and led to a house. Meeting new people and listening to their stories is what life is really about. When you listen to someone else’s story, you unknowingly become a part of it. 

The river was a five-minute walk from our Airbnb and the village. Just as we (my cousins and I) started to walk towards the river, it started pouring. The trees, the grass, the leaves were now happier, and so were we. 

There is something magical about walking in the rain,especially when you are walking down a cobbled pathway surrounded by lush greenery. As we approached the river, the rain settled down and so did the dew on our skin. The river looked like liquid moonstone, casting a perfect reflection of the blue sky and white clouds. The floating cotton balls gave way to the clear blue sky. We could witness all of this just by looking at the river – a reflection, a reflection of the sky, a reflection of life. If there is a word for something that you feel when your heart beats fast yet your mind is calm, then that was it! 

We watched the river calmly flow by us with ripples of time. The sun’s rays were now shooting out from the horizon giving a whole new dimension to the scene. If I were to sit and write this article there, I know I wouldn’t have been able to. Because my mind was devoid of all thoughts in those moments. It wouldn’t have let me miss any moment. 

Even if it is for a short time, your mind needs a break – a break from thoughts, a break from the chaos.

Postscript: While most of my articles are information-based, I decided to let this one flow. In case you do wish to travel, here are some details from the trip. 

We had booked an Airbnb villa close to Neral. It is a farm house that is owned by a Mumbai-based couple – Dr. Sudhir Pillai and Dr. Neeta Jain. They were exceptional hosts and took care of all our requirements. Our caretaker Deepak attended to all our requirements too. 

Inside the property

But most importantly, the villa is situated in a secluded area and is surrounded by fields and lush greenery. The route is extremely scenic and traveling during the monsoon is a cherry on the cake. The house is properly ventilated and offers fresh views from all directions. If you are looking for a secluded location for a laid-back weekend stay, then this is a perfect place. While I call it secluded, it is also important to mention that you must travel by your own vehicle. There won’t be access to Uber or any local taxi as it is 4 km away from the town of Neral and the roads are in poor condition during the monsoon. 

The village I spoke about earlier is a minute’s walk from the property and the river is barely a fivd-minute walk. If you are looking for some thrill, you can go on a hike to the nearby forts or explore a waterfall nearby. We, however, decided to take a step back and relax. We had a refreshing break in the “rustic farmhouse”, as the owners call it. 

Now, if you do choose to travel here, make sure you do not miss Thackeray’s vada pav. I guarantee you won’t be able to stop at one. 

 
 

Walk, Dine And Embrace The Views In Dharamkot

diksha iyer

I stirred my cup of hot chocolate, which soothed my throat on a cold day. The wind caressed my hair and cheeks as I looked at the green valley dotted with colourful houses and the clouds floating around it. It had rained heavily the previous night, and the clouds had taken the liberty of blanketing the mountains that day. The temperature had dropped, and the drizzle continued. This was our last day at Dharamkot, a quaint town which lazily sits amidst the mountains surrounding Mcleodganj. 

Though the unexpected rains had ruined our plans of exploration, it somehow made it a perfect way to end our week-long trip – by relishing hot chocolate at a cafe. As I sat at the cafe with my arms cuddled up around the warm cup, I couldn’t help but look back at the six days here. 

While planning my trip a couple of people asked me what I was going to do for a week in one tiny town – something I sometimes asked myself too. But strangely, there was not a single day I didn’t feel at home. The atmosphere and the mountains encapsulated me into believing that this was home. 

Those who know me well, know that I am not an adventurous person. So trekking and camping were not on my priority to-do lists. But something else was. If you walk around the steps and slopes of Dharamkot, you are bound to come across a cafe every 4 minutes – some tucked away in the mountains, and some others overlooking a valley. Run by Israelis, Tibetans or locals, Continental, Middle-eastern, Tibetan or Indian, the food options are plentiful. This truly amused me. So my friend and I mapped out all the cafes we wished to visit and set an aim.

Fifteen cafes in five days is what we achieved. All of them have a different vibe and a relaxing environment. You will see people working, reading, chatting or having a nap after a nice meal at these cafes. Some places may not offer lip-smacking food, but the views and the atmosphere are truly intoxicating. 

  1. Heena Cafe, Upper Dharamkot: This open-air cafe sits on a cliff overlooking the valley. This is where we had the first breakfast of our trip and was the starting point of our cafe- hopping expedition. We reached Dharamkot at 6 am after a long journey and spent time in the cafe till our check-in. The kitchen was not open, but the sitting area was. The bells of the nearby temple merged with the morning mist creating a soothing atmosphere. We checked into Zostel, which was right opposite Heena Cafe, after a quick breakfast here. The food could have been better, but 10/10 for the views. 

        You can head here for dinner to gaze at the star-lit sky. 

  1. Trek and Dine, Lower Dharamkot: Trek and Dine is a popular cafe situated in the market area of Lower Dharamkot. It is surrounded by a couple of other cafes. It does not offer majestic views of the mountains, but the soothing colours, comfortable seating and relaxing atmosphere make it worth a visit. We loved the Chicken lasagna and hummus platter there. The place was so comfortable that I ended up taking a 30 minutes nap,  which I realised later was necessary for a steep forty minute uphill climb to Zostel. 

In Dharamkot, you will walk through narrow paths dominated by huge rocks and steps. There is only one concrete road, which also has a steep elevation. For us, it was more of dine and trek! 

  1. Salvation cafe, Dharamkot: Pop of colours and a cosy atmosphere will welcome you at Zostel’s in-house cafe. The cafe is open to all. It has several books, good WiFi connectivity and lovely views for you to spend some ‘Me Time’. This is also a place where you will get to interact with people coming from different paths of life, one of the reasons I look forward to staying at Zostel properties. Everyone here connects over their love for travelling. The cafe houses several card and board games to break the ice between visitors and travellers. 

The food at Salvation cafe is homely and delicious. Most of our dinners were at Salvation cafe. Their breakfast items are much relished too. The staff takes pride in their hot chocolate.

  1. Himalayan Tea Shop, Dharamkot: A tiny cafe located at the turning of the road, Himalayan Tea Shop welcomes you to its small world. The food was hands down one of the best I had in Dharamshala. The omlettes, parathas and chai are perfect to start you day with. We stopped at Himalayan Tea Shop after an early morning meditation session at Tushita Meditation Center. The homemade food and a neighbourhood ambience makes it one of the best places to stop for breakfast. This is also a stop for trekkers making their way to Triund.

You will find monks, trekkers, travellers and locals spending time with a chai and cigarette here.

  1. Moonlight: Yet another cafe with an aesthetic and chic vibe. With comfortable seating and delicious continental and middle-eastern food, Moonlight will be in the recommendation list of most visitors. The cafe offers views of the Dharamkot market area. You will see several foreigners and domestic travellers visiting this place for their revered banoffee pie. 
  1. Birdhouse Cakery, Dharamkot: Birdhouse is a cute little bakery located at the turning of a narrow lane that leads to Lower Dharamkot. The white and blue shades of the bakery in the backdrop of green mountains give the place a happy and positive vibe. This is a small place and you can also choose to have a seat outside overlooking the mountains. 

We tried their pancakes, orange cake and hot chocolate. Yes, we did get a sugar rush!  While their food isn’t exclusive, I liked the setting and ambience. It is a lovely place for evening tea. 

  1. Black Tent, Mcleodganj: This tiny Tibetan cafe is hidden away in a corner of the crowded market streets of Mcleodganj. After a long walk from Upper Dharamkot to Mcleodganj, our stomachs were growling. We had been looking forward to a Tibetan meal since morning. When our mobile network deserted us on the way, we started walking aimlessly in the markets of Mcleodganj, searching for this restaurant.  It was recommended to us by a friend and is not the typical touristy place, so many people are now aware of it.

After wandering around with our heads moving in all directions, I finally spotted a blackboard fighting for its space among other nameboards. We climbed the spiral stairs and opened the door to a mini Tibet. As I saw a group of monks in their red robes enjoying their lunch, I realised how perfect the homely setting was. The place is run by a Tibetan woman who welcomed us with a warm smile and helped us pick our meal.

I tried Thukpa for the first time and loved it. The soupy texture truly soothes your soul. I used chopsticks for the first time too. And must I add, I wasn’t bad at it!

Thukpa
Menu

If you are looking for a good Tibetan meal without the hassle of tourist crowds, then head over here!

  1. Hollywood cafe, Mcleodganj: My friend wanted to visit a fancy cafe: “We have visited so many local cafes, let’s try something different.” While walking down the streets of Mcleodganj, we spotted a huge board which said ‘Hollywood cafe’. Somehow the name attracted us and we climbed up the stairs and entered a neat restaurant. 

We ordered a cold coffee, which was quite average. My friend wanted to experiment, we did  and we left. It is an expensive place and I personally won’t recommend it. There are better places around to sit and relax. 

  1. Sunset Cafe, Dharamkot: Our legs dangling from a platform, we looked at the valley and the silhouettes of mountains fading away in the distance. The sun rays were protruding from behind the clouds casting shades of blue and green. It seemed like staring into a moving painting. The orange slowly stole everyone’s attention as it creeped down from behind the clouds, bidding adieu for the day. A warm pizza and a cold watermelon juice gave us company as we witnessed the sunset on a chilly evening. 

The Sunset Cafe located amidst the hills in the middle of nowhere is one of the best cafe experiences we had. The route to the cafe requires one to trek through steep slopes laid with rocks for almost forty minutes. Though the journey is slightly exhausting, the destination is worth the effort. 

The cafe is usually full during the sunset. Everyone watching the sunset together is an assuring sight. The cafe claims its vegetarian pizza to be the best in the country. While I feel the claim is a stretch, the pizza was pretty good.

Witnessing the sunset from the cafe amidst the valleys and greenery is an experience to behold.

  1. Jimmy’s kitchen, Mcleodganj: Someone once said: “Eat your breakfast like a King.” and on our fourth day in Dharamkot, we did just that. We were thrilled looking at the food pictures of Jimmy’s Kitchen on Zomato and were looking forward to visiting this popular cafe at Mcleodganj. We decided to eat our hearts out,  and that is exactly what we did. 

I ordered an American breakfast which included double egg omelette, sausages, potatoes, bread, muesli and tea. As exciting as it sounds, it was a task finishing it. Trust me, we weren’t hungry the whole day after ‘eating like a King’ in the morning. 

We liked the food. It probably did not meet our over-expectation, but it was worth a try. I have heard that their desserts are delicious. Unfortunately, I can’t give you feedback because we were too full already. 

  1. Tibet Kitchen, Mcleodganj: If you ask anyone in Mcleodganj for Tibetan cuisine, there are chances that they will suggest Tibet Kitchen. Located right at the Mcleodganj market square, you will see flocks of tourists entering this place excited about trying out the local cuisine. Our stomachs didn’t have any more space, so we shared a Thukpa.

To be honest, I relished Black Tent’s Thukpa more. For me, that felt more authentic. But that is strictly my opinion. 

Thukpa and Tibetan bread

The Tibet Kitchen also has several other options. If you crave for North Indian or South Indian food, they have that too.

  1. Young Monk, Upper Dharamkot:  It was our second last day in Dharamkot and it had rained heavily the previous night. We woke up to drizzling and extremely cold weather. Our plans of exploring Dharamshala were washed away by the rains, so we decided to hit a cafe close to Zostel for lunch. 

We entered the Young Monk Cafe which is situated on an open balcony, and the views were gorgeous. The rains had made the trees and mountains happier. The clouds were almost touching the ground and the dew had settled on leaves. We sat on our tables which overlooked a valley. The chilly wind and a hot cup of Kawa were perfect for the occasion. 

Young Monk also has a hostel. The cafe is small, simple, yet aesthetically pleasing. We enjoyed the food too. 

We spent a good amount of time here playing board games and enjoying the views, until it started raining again and it became too cold to stay outside. 

  1. Fuglers cafe, Dharamkot: On the same rainy day, as the clouds slowly cleared during late afternoon, we decided to walk down towards lower Dharamkot. We had heard a lot about Fuglers Cafe and decided to give it a try.

As we walked down the rocky slopes, we came to Fuglers, a tiny and cosy cafe located at the corner of a street. It is surrounded by greenery and has a chic vibe. Macrame art, dream catchers, postcards and fairy lights create a welcoming atmosphere. 

We ordered a plate of pancakes and a fried nutella ball which was recommended to us by the owner. We didn’t enjoy the food. However, it is a nice place to spend some time with a book or play with their in-house dog. 

  1. Kala Momos, Dharamshala: Our food chronicles ended with Kala Momos in Dharamshala where we stopped just before boarding our bus to Pathankot. I had been craving momos since Day 1. Momos are a speciality here as they are a local Tibetan dish. Somehow we didn’t manage to eat momos in Mcleodganj, so we had to find a way to try the much famous momos before heading back home. 

Our cab driver suggested Kala Momos in Dharamshala and we made a quick halt there. I don’t know the taste of authentic momos, but I did relish this one. I was finally satisfied when my friend said: “These are better than the ones I had at Mcleodganj.” 

Several moments of the trip made it a memorable one. The weather, the views, the landscape, the people, but also food. Food has always been an integral part of all my travels. What made the cafes and the food interesting are all the things mentioned above. The small things are the ones that add to and make your experience worth re-visiting. 

 

Kolad – River, Reverie, Rafting

diksha iyer

The other day I asked myself, why do I like to travel? It took a while for the answer to dawn, but when it did, it opened a window in my heart. While most of us travel because we like to explore new places, I realized that there is another reason too – travelling transports you inside a bubble.

The bubble that barricades you from the chaos of your thoughts. It is nothing but a beautiful escape – from reality. It makes you realize there is so much more to life than the mundane things we have surrounded ourselves with.

With every trip I take I realize there is so much I don’t know about life. There is so much more to explore and experience, life will fall short indeed. It makes me want to seize every moment of my life and live every bit of it. 

You may wonder what makes me so philosophical. Well, that’s because this feeling was seeping through my recent trip to Kolad. 

Unlike most people, our motivation to go to Kolad was not river-rafting, it was the newly opened Zostel. 

I had been to a Zostel property in Panchgani two years ago, and a year ago if we delete 2020 from our life calendars. The entire vibe, ambience and concept caught on me. So when I finally saw a Zostel property introduced closer to home, I couldn’t resist planning a trip there. The property is just a month old, but it was impressive. 

Kolad is frequently visited by adventure seekers and deserves more recognition than it receives. 

It is approximately two hours away by car from Panvel Railway Station. While Google Maps show 1 hour 45 minutes, it took us three hours to get there. No, the maps weren’t wrong, just that we were adventurous enough to travel by an Activa! 

After several pit stops, we reached Ambewadi junction. Make sure you don’t miss out on reading the booking confirmation email sent from Zostel, like we did. To reach the property, you have to park your vehicle at Wilder West Water Sports Resort. Call Zostel to arrange for a boat and then sail to the property. River Kundalika cuts between Zostel and Wilder West Resort, a premium operator and the only Licensed Operator of all water sports in the Kundalika River.

Wilder West Resort

Kundalika River flows from the Sahyadri Hills to the Arabian Sea. The river originates in a small town called Bhira and is fed by the excess water from Tata Power’s Mulshi Dam Project on to a series of hydroelectric projects and dams. It is also said that there once existed a trade route called Savalya Ghat which descended to Kundalika Valley from Tamhini Ghat.

You will find several retreats and farmhouses on the banks of this river, and one of them is Zostel. 

On our way to Zostel

After crossing the river in their “iconic” orange motorboat, we were guided by a cheerful young gentleman who checked us into our private cottage with a porch seating at Zostel. There are options for females and mixed dorms as well. 

  • entry to dorms
  • private cottages

What makes the property colorful and vibrant are the wall arts, open spaces, hammocks and the peaceful environment. 

The property has a common room for you to either laze around reading books or hype yourself up by playing some games.

They have an in-house Fuddlers’ Cafe which not only serves a limited but relishable menu, but also exciting water sports. We were excited about Kayaking, and that was our plan for the day. 

  • Caffe Fuddlers
  • Also Caffe Fuddlers

After a very filling Chicken Kokani, butter chapatis and the under-estimated afternoon nap, we headed for Kayaking. 

To participate in water sports, you have to cross the river again and head to Wilder West. Water sports are in full swing after 5 pm and you can register yourself at Zostel itself. 

It was my first time Kayaking experience. You get to witness a different part of nature as you float on water. The river was calm but the changing directions of the kayak was a work-out. As you begin to notice the reflections in the water and start enjoying the surroundings, the experience gets surreal and peaceful. 

Kayaking
Bumper Ride

We kayaked around until the sun started to bid adieu and we even saw someone hanging upside down by a suspension rope. While few tourists activated their adrenaline hormones by jumping from a tall mount, we peacefully enjoyed floating and watching the sunset.

  • Bungee Jumping

The best part about Zostel is its community – the people you meet, the stories you hear and the memories you carry. We met people from various walks of life who had their own unique stories. We spilled magic with our stories and bonded over some music, food, games and bonfire. This is when you realize that there is so much you haven’t experienced. Experiences are underrated. After all, life is all about taking risks and living it to the fullest. One learns so much from travel and that is what counts. 

We had no fixed plans of river rafting, partially because we wanted to relax at the property and also because we were scared. Our new acquaintances however encouraged us to give it a try. And now, I am thankful for that.

The river rafting point is around 22-25 kms away from the property. Zostel arranges for a transport and pools you in with others. 

The water released from the dam reaches Kolad sometime around 8:15 am and is in full flow at 10 am. We hopped on to our rafts after a safety briefing. When our guide Arjun was explaining the rafting procedures along with safety guidelines, my heart beat fast in excitement as well as anxiouslyness. But from the moment I stepped into that raft, it was a completely different world. I knew that this moment was never going to come again and I had to make the most of it.

I have never been an adventurous person. But one more thing I realized during this small trip of ours is that sometimes coming out of your comfort zone will give you the greatest pleasures.

So when we were told to jump in the river for a swim, I did. Yes, I was scared. But I went for it. In life, we need so much assurance that we sometimes forget to enjoy the moment. I consciously made an effort to not do that this time. So I jumped and floated on the water. Today, I can tell you that this was an experience I am never going to forget.

The gush of rapids, the swirls, the lashing of water against your raft, and the adrenaline pumping in your heart is what river rafting is about. The stream looked like molten silver cascading its way to eternity.

We were greeted by Morning Sickness, John Carry, Kundalika, Rajdhani, and many others who swayed us away. There are 13-14 such rapids with unusual names in the 12 km stretch.

If paddling is not enough work-out for the day, you also get an opportunity to carry the raft to the transit point. You definitely won’t miss your gym. 

It undoubtedly was a lifetime experience and I am glad that I went for it. 

The route back is dotted with villages consisting of vernacular houses made of wood or mud with roofs dominated by Mangalore tiles. 

I look forward to more explorations, experiences, and expeditions. It is true when they say, ‘travelling does help you find a deeper meaning in life’. 

Cheers!

Travel Tips:

  1. To know more about Zostel head to their website: https://www.zostel.com/zostel/kolad/
  2. There are some trains which stop at Roha. They usually depart from Panvel. State transport buses also ply to Roha from Panvel.
  3. The starting point of river Rafting is 23-25 kms away from Zostel and Wilder West Adventures. Rafting is only functional in morning post 8 am.
  4. If you want your pictures and videos clicked during river-rafting, the guide will carry a GoPro. You will be charged a certain amount for the pictures, but don’t forget to bargain!
  5. There is a 4 kms rafting stretch which starts at Wilder West Adventures.
  6. Water sports at Wilder West starts at 5 pm. So plan your day and travel accordingly.
  7. There are local autos that ply in the area.
  8. If you have a couple of days at hand, then do try to make a visit to Devkund Waterfalls, trek to forts of Tala and Ghosala, Tamhini Ghat and Bhira Dam.
  9. Try to make a visit during the weekdays to avoid the crowd. Our river rafting guide mentioned that during weekdays you will find almost 15 rafts in the river. We went on a weekday and there were only two! 
 
 

Beach Hopping In Alibaug

diksha iyer

Some places make you feel close to yourself, and some others make you feel alive. For me, that place has always been a beach. There is something about beaches that make my heart beat faster and yet be calm at the same time. I don’t know if it is the oozing waves or the dreamy endless sea. When the glittering sun rays hit the gurgling waves, it is nothing but a hypnotic site.

I prefer coastal destinations for my vacations. Hence, when I was planning my birthday get-away, it had to be to a beach. It was twelve months since I last traveled. So keeping in mind safety and proximity, we hit Alibaug, a beach-getaway from Mumbai.

We beach-hopped over the three days we spent there. Here is a map of all the beaches we visited.

What makes the experience even more special is the journey to the coast. Alibaug is a coastal town. The town center is where you will find the crowd, however, the rest of the region has houses situated remotely from one another. It is the perfect place to take a break and relax away from the hectic city life. While you are riding through the lanes of Alibaug, you will often find yourself between paddy fields or amongst dangling coconut trees. We passed through several colourful houses with verandas and courtyards. Sipping your morning tea in the courtyard or verandah must be such a blissful experience. The roads are secluded, green, and beautiful.

As you approach the beach you will pass through a village after which the beach is named. Each village has its charm.

We started with Saswane beach, which is located towards the north of Alibaug town.

  1. Saswane

Saswane Beach is relatively unknown and lies in proximity to the Mandwa beach. Withered rocks are a prominent site at this beach. If it is low-tide, you will have to walk almost half a kilometer to touch the sea. 

A local later mentioned to us that one can spot Mumbai island from this beach. We missed this, but you can definitely try spotting.

2. Awas

Awas beach and village were one of my favourite spots. Casuarina and Suru trees brim the shores of this beach. The beach hasn’t been commercialized yet, hence you can peacefully take a stroll here. Close to the beach are other attractions which I will talk about in my next blog dedicated to this region. 

3. Kihim

Kihim beach is a popular spot for tourists. After visiting the secluded beaches of Saswane and Awas, you will not find this beach crowded. You can sit by the shack, indulge in fried fish and sip coconut water.

4. Thal

‘A virgin beach’, is how our Air BnB host described Thal. He was right. We hit the Thal beach early in the morning and it was a serene experience. We stood on an elevated platform and watched the waves crash on the huge rocks. This was the first time we witnessed high tide, so it was lovely.  

5. Kubladha Jetty

There are times when Google Maps can be wrong too. We spotted Kubladha Fort on the maps and decided to head there. While there was no fort there, the locals told us that there is a jetty where we should drive to. I am including this in a list of beaches because this was our highlight of the entire trip. We parked our bike at the end of jetty and watched the dusk set in the glittering waters.

6. Varsoli

White sand and blue waters is what Varsoli is all about. This too is not an often-visited place, but is one of the most beautiful beaches. There are several cottages lined up along the coast and so are casuarina and palm trees. 

7. Alibaug

Alibaug is synonymous with this beach. Anyone who visits Alibaug will make a stop here. If you are looking for water sports, this is the place to go. You will find this beach flooded with tourists, especially during the weekend. Kulaba Fort is situated in the middle of this beach, and you can take a ferry or walk to the fort during low tide.

8. Akshi

While the garbage lying around caught our attention, the pearl-white seagulls compensated for it. There were colonies of gulls enjoying their Saturday at the beach. We spotted several wild-life photographers capturing these birds.

9. Navgaon

We drove on the beach from Aksi to Navgaon. This is something the locals frown upon, hence can be avoided. We ended up at a different entrance of the Navgaon beach, but had a scrumptious breakfast. There are several food stalls there and their egg-burji, misal pav, vada pav, poha and other Maharashtrian delights are delicious!

Main entrance of the beach

10. Revdanda

Revdanda beach faces the Revdanda Fort, a 16th century fort built by the Portuguese to protect its trading interest. The fort is however in a dilapidated state. Ruins of bastions, a bell tower and a long wall facing the beach is what remains, surrounded by palm and coconut trees. To reach the beach, you have to exit the fort complex from a tiny broken gate and climb down some uneven rocks.

The beach is serene and a must-visit. You will be away from the crowd and the stretch is quite peaceful. You will however encounter several pre-wedding photoshoots here.

11. Korlai

After crossing a bridge over the Kundalika River from Revdanda, you will reach the region of Korlai. You will pass through quaint lanes and villages to reach a fishing hamlet of Korlai. The smell of dried fish and the sand is a weirdly good combination. We didn’t go to the main location of the Korlai beach. However, on way to the Korlai Fort, you will witness mesmerising views of the Korlai Beach.

The fort is located on a hill top. This 16th century Portuguese fort was a stronghold of their empire in Maharashtra. The primary motive of this fort was to keep a watch on Revdanda creek. There is also a functional lighthouse near the fort. You have trek up to the fort.We decided to sit near the lighthouse and be in awe of the mighty Arabian Sea.

No two beaches were the same. Every beach and every area has a unique thing for you to remember them by. This was our beach hopping in Alibaug. You can extend your hop southwards of Korlai until Kashid.

I look forward to more beach hops. Someday maybe, we will cover the entire Indian coast. This was just the beginning! 

 
 

RoRo – ing from Mumbai to Mandwa

diksha iyer

“This feels like an airport Waiting Lounge,” I told my friend. 

We were standing in an AC lounge which encompassed comfortable sofa seats and a food counter. Just as we get impressive views of the runway from an airport lounge, we could see the endless magnificence of the sea from here. This was the lounge of the Ro-Ro ferry. 

I fulfilled my long wait of experiencing the Ro-Ro Ride. Roll-On-Roll-Off-Passenger-ship/ ferry was launched in Mumbai in March 2020, but was hit by the pandemic after a couple of sails. Several cities across the globe offer similar Ro-Pax services.

This is a joint initiative of M2M Ferries Private Limited, Maharashtra Maritime Board and the Mumbai Port Trust. Their aim is to make travel comfortable and faster between Mumbai and Mandwa Jetty. You can simply walk into the ferry or take your vehicle around and park it inside the ship. 

We boarded the ferry from Princess Dock in Mazgaon, commonly known as Bhaucha Dhakka. RoRo sails at regular intervals, but it is best to check the schedule and pre-book your tickets. 

The ferry is marvellous. It is grand and the red colour adds to its charm. As you approach the dock you will see a bright red ship dangling in the sea and waiting for you to join it. 

You will also spot several colourful boats waving to you from the sea.

Other boats parked at the dock

We bought a passenger ticket and entered the boat along with a swarm of cars and other travellers. I was surprised to see the ferry almost full, filled with enthusiastic tourists who had been holding their travel spirits for a long time. I was I was one of them. We were a batch who experienced rain in December and missed out on seeing the clear blue sky. But this weather had its own charm too.

From the open we could view silver clouds that were lingering above us complementing the relentless sea. 

You can just sit back and enjoy the views from the open deck or walk around the ferry clicking pictures and videos like we did. The sail is quite photogenic indeed. 

Open Deck

For someone looking for a luxurious experience, the AC lounge will win your heart. Grab a cup of Chai and a Vada Pav and enjoy the waves pass by in the comfort of a lounge chair. 

The AC lounge

The one-hour journey passed by quickly and we were soon at Mandwa Jetty where a long strip of land welcomed us.

The RoRo ride is something that you should definitely experience – an epitome of comfort that will make you want to travel to Alibaug more often.

  • Cars exiting the ferry

Ticket rates:

  • Passenger : INR 300
  • Cycle: INR 100
  • Two-wheeler : INR 200
  • Small Vehicle : INR 800
  • Medium Vehicle : INR 1000
  • Large Vehicle : INR 1200

P.S: There are cheaper ways to reach Mandwa. Launch and Catamaran services operate between Gateway of India, Mumbai, and Mandwa from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM. They also take an hour to reach. They even offer free bus coaches from Mandwa to Alibaug. 

Three companies offer this service – PNP, Maldar and Ajanta.  

You can have a look at the schedule here: https://alibagtourism.com/ferry/

However, these ferries do not function during monsoon. And for someone with sea-sickness, RoRo is a better option. 

M2M Ferries booking site: https://m2mferries.com

Sharing two YouTube Videos to get a better idea of the experience: 

 

Mumbai, Cycling And The Hidden Sea-Walk.

diksha iyer

An early morning cycling expedition along the sea will hold you in awe. The silence on the streets, sea breeze, sound of the gushing waves and the ubiquitous presence of iconic South Mumbai buildings make cycling a nostalgic experience.

Mumbai cycling
marine drive


It was a chilly Sunday morning. The sapphire sea seemed endless and infinite. The sound of the waves crashing on the mighty rocks was music to our ears. The cool breeze caressed our hair as we pedaled along the Marine Drive promenade. To our right was the beautifully curved coast of the Queen’s Necklace and to our left were buildings resembling a pastel colour box. 

It had been a long time since I had gone cycling. I had made several unsuccessful plans of cycling in the south of Mumbai until I finally decided to make it happen. 

Instead of commuting on our cycles from Chembur to Marine Drive, we decided to rent bicycles from a shop near Girgaon Chowpatty. It is the best way to have a relaxed cycling experience. We picked up our cycles from Anil Cycle Stores ( and were lucky to get the last two B-Twins. 

Anil Cycle Stores: https://goo.gl/maps/XXoeUyiLSPwvy9sb9

There was no route planned, but that’s what makes the journey compelling. We pedaled our way along the Chowpatty seafacing road, crossing Ideal Café, New Yorkers and Bachelors until we reached the Marine Drive promenade.

After parking our cycles at the dead-end of the street, we spent some time watching the waves crash on the rocks at Nariman point. The high-rise buildings of Malabar hills seemed distant, hiding behind the morning mist. The sky and sea seemed to be as close as ever.

Nariman point

 We looked around at people jogging and walking with their headphones on. There was also a group of cyclists who drove past us like a swarm of bees. 

As the waves were creeping steadily towards us, we scrolled through Google Maps to find our next destination. My friend came across a narrow strip of land right opposite Nariman Point. He found the place captivating and was curious to find the route to the strip. 

This strip of land is located in New Navy Nagar. Geeta Nagar is the closest bus stop. We picked up our bikes and pedaled our way to the point. 

marine drive
P.S : This picture was taken later. We did not cycle to this point during the COVID – 19 pandemic and we do not encourage the same.

Cycling on the streets of South Mumbai and passing by the buildings and roads embedded in various stories is incomparably charming. It was almost 9 am, and the number of vehicles on the road slowly increased. We pedaled through some bustling and also so few calm streets. While some streets were dominated by stone-clad structures, others had tiny colourful houses. 

As we approached Geeta Nagar, the coast was visible again. There isn’t a direct road leading to the strip even though Google Maps does show one. The motorable road ends at a slum settlement. You will have to carry your bikes through the narrow lanes of the settlement.  It isn’t a cakewalk. However, the locals are friendly and will help you navigate your way.

We slowly approached the ray of light. It was like a dim light shining in the corner of a dark room. As we stepped out of the cluttered dark area, we were stunned by the view of the vast blue sea. 

The strip felt endless. It seemed like a pathway to heaven. We cycled along this narrow strip of land with waves crashing on both sides. As we finally reached the tip, it was just us along with the endless sea and sky. 

cycling in Mumbai
Doesn’t it seem endless?

We parked our bicycles and sat down facing the mysterious sea. Miles away, we could see the blurry buildings that stood high and the riparian blue sea that groaned by.

The breeze was crisp and fresh. The humming of the sea-song was beguiling. And the gushing waves, comforting. It was a perfect Sunday morning moment. 

The rays of the Sun were now glittering on the sea. We could gaze at it for hours and be lost in our thoughts. But the Sun was now out from behind the clouds and shining a spiritedly. We decided to cycle back before the scorching heat got to us. 

cycling in Mumbai
Hugsy was an adorable companion!

(A small tip: Try to visit this place early in the morning or post 9 am as people defecate in the open). 

We pedaled back till Chowpatty and parked our cycles at the rental shop. 

Our South Mumbai cycling expedition ended with a scrumptious egg and bacon breakfast at Café Mondegar. Ah! What a day! 

My friend created a beautiful video of our cycling expedition. This will definitely give you a better view of our trip. Also, do subscribe, like and share for more interesting travel updates. Here’s the link. Happy Cycling 

 

Papad, Pizza and Wine

diksha iyer

It’s not just the wine that gets you drunk at Sula Vineyards, it is also the ambience and the food. 

The rays of the sun clinked with my glass of wine. It finally felt like the perfect Sunday I had been craving for – a bite of an over-loaded oven-fresh pizza and a sip of an elegant wine. Fun and fruity were my first thoughts. As I twirled my glass of Sula rosé and glanced at the vast nepeta green vineyard dancing to the song of the wind, it felt as if time had stood still. 

Last year in February my cousins planned a trip to Sula Vineyards. I was more than happy to hop on to the plan and get away from my daily grind. The term “weekend getaway” made much more sense now.  

The passengers in the train stayed awake through the night. Well, who can sleep when a noisy troop unfortunately book seats next to you? We reached Nashik on a Saturday afternoon. The sun shone bright, but the cool breeze kept the skin from burning. The town had a mystical ambience. The fact that Nashik has its mention in several mythological legends was felt in the air. The town, situated on the banks of the holy Godavari River, is daunted by wooden architecture, ancient temples and mesmerizing ghats. 

I love exploring the place whenever I travel to a new destination. However, this time it was just a two-day trip. So I decided to put my feet up and relax. 

“Sir what is the best dish in your restaurant?,” asked Ankit the eldest cousin amongst us. The waiter stared at the seven giants looking at him and smiled wryly. After all, a hungry Punjabi family isn’t always a treat to have around. 

Sukh Sagar in Panchvati is one of the most popular local restaurants. The cozy ambience seemed comfortable, but the growling stomach wasn’t. 

The waiter, dressed in parrot green, assured us that all dishes served in the restaurant were delicious. He also suggested we start with their special papad as an appetiser. 

Papad, which resembled a big bowl, was placed at the center of our table. The seven of us looked at it in excitement as if we were school kids on a picnic. This was something new and, more importantly, looked tempting. Just when everyone started to dig into the papad, “wait,” I shouted. “I want to take a picture of it,” I informed. While everyone gave me a ‘face-palm look’, I continued to click a picture of the papad and every other dish that came our way. If not for that then how would I show the pictures to you guy!

The same afternoon, after squeezing ourselves into two autos for a thirty-five-minute drive, we arrived at our much-awaited destination. The big whiteboard with two smiling sun emojis read ‘Sula Vineyards’. Were we more excited about the serenity of the place or the opportunity to consume some wine? Of course it’s the wine. It’s always the wine. 

The Sula Vineyards was established in 1999, which paved way for Nashik’s first winery. 

I walked through the passage sheltered with blooming magenta flowers. The Sun, now calm, was hiding behind the clouds. The cool wind blew through my hair making it dance with the winds too. 

To my right was a quaint California-inspired building and to the left were the endless rolling vineyards. I stood there trying to absorb all the mesmerizing things that surrounded me. 

Sula’s vineyards are home to some of India’s finest grapes. The cool nights and the warm days of Nashik ensure the perfect condition for the cultivation of premium wine grapes.

As we walked in, Mayank and Sania, two of my other cousins spotted a life-size wine bottle placed in a corner. We all huddled up and took pictures with the massive bottle. “If only this was a real bottle,” we all thought.

The wine-tasting session had a huge waiting time. So we decided to chill on the rooftop restaurant. The roof-top restaurant overlooks the rolling vineyards with panoramic views of the Gangapur lake in the distance. It is a wonderful place to watch the sunset. 

It was a long time since I felt so relaxed. The setting was perfect and so was the view. 

There are various activities you can take part in during your day at Sula Wines. You can sign up for an all-access tour of the winery and personalised wine tasting. There are also different restaurants with unique experiences where you can dine in. If you want to spend some more time, then Beyond and The Source by Sula are great options for a luxurious stay. 

As the Sun was now setting and the nepeta vineyard slowly faded into a dark silhouette, we were ready to head back to the city of Nashik. While on your way back, don’t forget to pick up a bottle or two from the shop. 

On our way back I looked out of the auto passing through fields shining in the moonlight. The curvy roads and the star-lit sky made me want to keep driving through the night.  

Before calling it a day, we made a stop at the Godavari Ghat. The sacred Godavari Ghat in the heart of Nashik’s old quarter is nothing but an alluring scene. The ghat is dotted by several quaint temples. The bright yellow lights, like souls, shine brightly in calm waters. We sat by the ghat and felt the river pass by. Everything around us was so calm – the waters, the people, the atmosphere….. 

The next day, early in the morning, we decided to visit the ghat again. After a piping hot cup of tapri chai, we walked along the path. The ghat was now occupied by several people. While some were performing last rites, others were enjoying the view of the serene waters. The sound of the dhols and the chanting of prayers added to the mystical environment. There is something about Indian ghats which makes you feel magical even amidst the chaos. 

The waiter at Sukh Sagar restaurant greeted us again for lunch. “Papad?,” he asked. We looked at one other. “Oh! yes, please get two.” 

We happily indulged in our sumptuous and authentic lunch and set off for home. 

If you ask any of us what are the three things we remember the most, it definitely would be Papad, Pizza and of course, The Wine.

Adios

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Globe-trotting through Bollywood!

diksha iyer

The role of media & entertainment is huge in our day-to-day life, with Bollywood having the biggest impact. The impact of Bollywood is not just through its plots and larger-than-life stars, but also because of the exotic locations scenes are shot in. Hindi films thus act as a tourism guide for Indians, who like to travel and explore the world.  

Raj Kapoor’s `Sangam` (1964), which was the first movie to be shot abroad, brought about a new trend in the Hindi film industry. A significant portion of the movie was shot in Europe. Till then, people only saw foreign locations on posters and in newspapers. After Sangam, many movies provided audiences a treat for their eyes by showcasing beautiful foreign locations. Audiences now started connecting with foreign locations as much as with the stars.

Yash Chopra took picturisation of foreign locales to a different level. Through his movie `Silsila` (1981), an entire generation of Bollywood fans was exposed to Netherlands’ Tulip Gardens. Indians sat in awe as they watched their favourite stars Amitabh Bachchan and Rekha amidst the astoundingly beautiful floral landscape. 

Silsila

Over a period of time, not just songs, but large portions of the film itself were shot abroad. 
Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge (1995), shot in amazing locales in Europe, become a travel inspiration for Indians. DDLJ, another film from the Yash Raj stable, became a trend setter.  The second half of Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s `Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam` (1999) was shot in Hungary. The film however showed it as Italy, but I guess no one was complaining. Hindi films were only reflecting the post-liberalization mood of the country, wanting to fly out of its comfort zone to explore new places, new cuisine and new culture. Audiences lapped up the trend and went to theatres for tourism exploring and not just `star gazing`. 

If Yash Chopra focused on Europe in the ’90s, Karan Johar, gave audiences a ringside view of the fascinating United States Of America (USA). He chose the USA to shoot Kal Ho Naa Ho, Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna, Ek Main Aur Ek Tu, Dostana and My Name is Khan. Audiences got a taste of the amazing New York and other fabulous destinations in the US. Thanks to Karan Johar, Indians now started receiving some interesting tourism education outside of Europe too. 

Movies like Rockstar (Prague), Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham (London and Egypt), Dil Chahta Hai (Australia), New York (New York and Philadelphia), Bachna Ae Haseeno ( Australia, Italy, Greece and Switzerland), PK (Belgium), Ek Tha tiger ( Cuba, Turkey and Ireland), Players (New Zealand and Russia), Chalte Chalte (Greece), Agent Vinod (Morocco), and Shivaay (Bulgaria) expanded audiences’ tourism horizons.

Bachna Ae Hasseno

Bollywood did not just stop at shooting in exotic foreign locales. It went one step further by incorporating travel as a theme. Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara (2011) is a story about three friends who go on a Spanish holiday. The film-makers collaborated with the Spain Tourim Board and presented an amazing movie, which was shot over 200 destinations in Spain. 
Dil Dhadkne Do (2015) was largely shot on a cruise. It brought alive yet another facet of travel. It inspired audiences to look beyond conventional modes of travel. 

Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara

Movies like Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani and Tamasha inspired people to take up their travel quests confidently.

Bollywood has also got some exotic Indian destinations which left us inspired to travel. These beautiful locations can compete with any foreign location. Movies like Dil Se (Ladakh & North East), Highway (Spiti Valley, Punjab), Jab We Met (Manali, Rohtang Pass), Jodha Akbar (Rajasthan), Rangoon (North East), Bajrangi Bhaijaan (Kashmir) have all given us travel goals.

3 Idiots – Ladakh
  • YJHD
  • Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam

Small towns of India have also made appearance in our Bollywood movies. Bareilly ki Barfi, Badrinath ki Dulhania, Tanu Weds Manu, Dum Laga Ke Haisha and Masaan have taken us through some of the beautiful and colourful towns of our country.

It is anybody’s guess how many people in the country plan their travel after watching a Bollywood blockbuster. But one thing is for sure, Bollywood has brought distant and expensive travel destinations much closer home for just a few hundred rupees. And as the current scenario is considered, I think the best way to travel is through the lens of our favourite Bollywood characters. 

 
 

A Backpacker’s Haven And A Historian’s Riddle: Ten Must-Things To Do In Hampi

diksha iyer

You can spend a lifetime in this ancient town, and still not soak in enough of its indescribable raw beauty. This is one place where modernisation is reluctant to disturb the historical sublimity providing peaceful echoes of a distant past right in the middle of a bustling present. If ever you wanted to know how you might have lived over 500 years ago, visit Hampi. 

Bank of Tungabadra

Heaps of giant boulders, endless blue skies, terrains of paddy fields and landscape dotted with monuments tracing history back hundreds of years, this town located by the Tungabhadra River simply stole my heart. 

The ancient temples, palace ruins and architectural splendour can only give you a peek into magnificent and majestic Vijayanagar Empire. The town attracts not just pilgrims and history buffs, but also backpackers from across the world. 

We spent 30 hours in Hampi and these are my Top Ten Recommendations:  

1. Cycle in the Hippie Island

If you are looking for some relaxing and chilled-out vibes, then this small island across the Tungabhadra River is the place for you. A delight for backpackers, this island is home to some beautiful landscapes, high boulders, sunset views and tiny cafes. We decided to rent out a bicycle and explore the island. We cycled until Sanapur Lake across local villages and witnessed some amazing views of paddy fields in the backdrop of the boulders.

You can end your day by enjoying the sunset atop the Anjaneya Hill. 

View on our way to Sanapur Lake

2. Cliff Jumping

After seeing so many videos of people jumping off the cliff, we couldn’t resist ourselves. Situated at an elevation, we cycled up to Sanapur Lake, which is a popular spot for cliff jumping. The deep blue waters of the lake mingling with the sky, surrounded by boulders, it was serenity at its best. The views from the top are the ones which make you stand still. 

There were people giving their shot at cliff jumping. However exciting jumping into the cool waters of Tungabahdra was, I wasn’t adventurous enough to jump off a cliff. My friend  though did jump and described it as an `out-of-the-world-experience`. 

  • Cliff jumping
  • Sanapur Lake

At Sanapur Lake, you can simply sit on the rocks and watch the calm waters.  

Make sure you are careful of the slippery rock and that you don’t jump too close to the rock. You need to undergo this adventure at your own risk. 

Note: There are no professional operators at the cliff-jumping area. You have to do it at your own risk. Please wear a life jacket while jumping off the cliff. 

3. Coracle Ride

One of the reasons I was so excited about my trip to Hampi was the Coracle Ride. A unique thing to experience, coracles are circular-shaped country boats which have been used in Hampi since the Vijayanagar Empire. 

On our way to Sanapur Lake, we spotted a local coracle ride in the passing stream. We swirled our way in the calm stream surrounded by greenery. Our helmsman even took us for a spin. It really was an exciting, joyous and a fun-filled ride. It was one of the most delightful experiences in Hampi. 

We however later came to know that this coracle operator was not legal and registered. It is therefore advised to be careful while choosing the ride and the operator. 

There are several places where you can experience the ride: Tungabhadra River boating area, Sanapur Lake and Sanapur Waterfall. The coracle ride is shut during the monsoon season. 

4. Indulge at cafes in Hippie Island and the main island 

From chill-vide cafes in Hippie Island to more traditional options in Hampi main island, the town is a delight for foodies. For non-vegetarian craving, it is better to hit the aesthetically decorated cafes at Hippie Island as non-vegetarian food and alcohol are banned in restaurants surrounding the Virupaksha Temple. 

The most popular eating joint is Mango Tree. Situated in Hampi Bazaar, this café serves lip-smacking dishes and the ambience is simply an icing on the cake. 

  • Sizzler at Mango Tree
  • Mango tree restaurant

We also dined at KSRTC Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneswara for breakfast and lunch. Their butter chicken, ghee rice, ghee roast chicken and tawa chapatis are delightful. 

  • Breakfast at Hotel Mayura
  • Bamboo Cafe

With low-seating mattresses, colourful sofas, friendly staff and beautiful views, you wish to be teleported to these cafes every Sunday morning. The cafes at Hippie Island are popular for their Israeli and continental meals. We tried the Bamboo Café and picked up a donut from The German Bakery. Oh! what a meal! 

5. Hike up Anjaneya Hill 

  • Anjaneya Hill

Believed to be the birthplace of Lord Hanuman, the temple is atop Anjaneya Hill. Located on the other side of the Tungabadra River, you can easily spot it from a distance as the temple at the hilltop is whitewashed and there is a white trail of steps zigzagging all the way to the top. The hike up the hill is a tough climb of 575 steps. The views from the top however make the climb worth the trouble. Apart from its religious significance, the hilltop is considered as one of the best places to catch a beautiful sunrise or sunset. 

6. Vijaya Vitthala Temple

Stone Chariot

Vijaya Vitthala Temple is the most important temple in Hampi and is known for its expectational architecture. The temple presents the explicit creativity and architectural excellence of the Vijayanagar empire. It is one of the largest temples of that period, built under the patronage of Devaraya II. This ancient temple is dedicated to Lord Vitthala (Vishnu’s incarnation) and dates back to the fifteenth Century. 

The temple has wonderful stone carvings of the Dashavatars (Matsya, Kurma, Vraha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parasuraman, Rama, Krishna and Buddha). The complex has three gopura entrances in the North, South and East. The vast complex is divided into three parts, namely, the outer mukhamandapa, the central rangamandapa and the interior garbhagriha. The entire mandapa is made of 56 musical pillars. These pillars emanate musical notes, a mystery that has fascinated everybody.

  • Carving of Lord Krishna

The sanctum sanctorum of the temple once contained an idol of Lord Vitthala. But now there is no idol. If you ever wondered which monument found its place on the Indian Rs. 50 note, then your search ends here. 

The Stone Chariot is one of the most stunning architectures of the Vijayanagar Kingdom.  The chariot is dedicated to Garuda – the carrier of Lord Vishnu. You can spot the idol of Garuda when you look perpendicularly from the sanctum sanctorum. It looks like a miniature Dravidian temple and it is said that it could be turned on its axis. 

  • Idol of Garuda can be seen inside the chariot
  • On our way to the temple

The whole complex is rich with architectural and sculptural perfection and portrays the rich culture of the Vijayanagar empire. Outside the temple to the east is a huge bazaar leading to a sacred tank known as Lokapavani.

Behind the temple is the King’s Balance and the bank of the Tungabadra River, which makes for a beautiful and refreshing view.

7. Virupaksha Temple

In the center of Hampi, this temple is one of the stunning landmarks of the city. It is the main pilgrimage site of Hampi. The temple is notified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temple is situated on the south bank of the River Tungabadra and is surrounded by the main bazaar of Hampi. It is believed that the temple has been functioning uninterruptedly ever since its inception in 7th Century AD. The shrine is dedicated to Lord Shiva. You can witness intricate carvings in the interiors of the temple. The temple complex has a charm of its own. The Gopuram of the temple is popularly known across the country. 

You can also witness erotic figures located at the south side of the tower. These icons signify fertility rites and are considered auspicious on a philosophical ground. 

This temple started off as a small shrine and later developed into a huge complex during the Vijayanagara rule. The surroundings of the temple have several authentic South Indian restaurants and the atmosphere is truly bustling.

Tank behind Virupaksha Temple

8. Hazara Rama Temple

The Hazara Rama Temple is the only temple situated in the core zone of the royal enclosure between the residential and ceremonial enclosures. This 15thCentury temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and is the finest example of a compact Dravida Vimana type of architecture. It has the Sanctum Sanctorum, Vestibule, Pillared Dance Hall and an elegant Pillared Pavilion. 

The temple is known for its sculpted friezes depicting the Ramayana in three tiers running all around the main shrine and the narrative sculptures of Lava-Kusha story running around the Devi’s shrine. It is said that there are thousand-sculpted figures of Lord Rama, which is how the temple gets its name – Hazara Rama Temple. 

A scene from Ramayana

The temple is also known for the narrative sculptures of the Bhagavata. It is undoubtedly the temple of the royal patronage. The narrative carvings of the Ramayana can be identified according to the scenes from the story. This temple is definitely my favorite in all of Hampi, due to its wonderful and intricate carvings of the Ramayana. 

9. Monument Hopping 


There are scores of  monuments across the whole town. They transport you back to the ancient ages of the Vijayanagar empire. These are few of the must-visit monuments:

  • Queens Bath

The Queen’s Bath was once a royal bathing complex for the queens. The architectural style of the royal bath is splendid and the tiny arches and windows make it even more beautiful.

  • Elephants’ Stable

These were the enormous homes of the royal elephants. It has eleven chambers and the grand structure is a must-see. 

  • Lotus Palace

The beautiful palace is named after its lotus-shaped structure. The architecture is mesmerising and is a great spot to get some nice photographic clicks. The Lotus Palace is a part of the Zanana Enclosure which is believed to be the secluded area where reside several monuments designed in Indo-Islamic style.

  • Laxmi Narasima Temple

This is the largest monolith statue in Hampi and was built in 1528 AD. The statue is an incarnation of Lord Vishnu – half man, half lion and is a symbol of grandeur. 

  • Monolithic Shivling

Just besides the Laxmi Narasima Temple is the grand monolithic Shivling. The Shivling presents a grandeur and charm of its own. There are several monkeys that will greet you near these monolithic structures. 

  • Sasivekalu Ganesha

The temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha and is one of the biggest statues in Hampi. The statue is believed to be carved from a single rock. It is situated at an elevation and so onee needs to climb a little. The sunset view from there however makes the walk worth the effort. 

  • Royal Enclosure: Mahanavami Dibba, Stepwell 
  • Mahanavami Dibba
  • Stepwell

The Mahanavami Dibba is where the royal functions were conducted. From the top of the platform you can witness amazing views of Hampi. It is said the the King used to have a grand function during Mahanavami and Dusshera and this platform served as the stage. Besides the platform, there are several other historic monuments around the area. We spotted a beautiful stepwell in the same complex.

  • Hemakuta Hill Temple Complex

The Hemakuta Hill Complex is dotted with several monuments and the views from the top are mesmerising. 

10. End your day at Matanga Hill

Hampi has several different hills you can climb for some stunning views. One of the most popular and beautiful ones is the Matanga Hill. On top of the hill is an ancient Veerabhadra temple. There is a small trek to reach up the hill which passes through boulders. There is also a monolith Nandi statue at the entry point of the hike. 

About Hampi and Vijayanagar Empire

A sneak – peek into our weekend in Hampi

Hampi is a temple town located in northern Karnataka, once the capital of the historical Vijayanagara Dynasty. The ruins of temples and other structures of Vijayanagara date back to 1500 AD. According to some sources, Hampi used to be the second largest city in the world. 

It served as the initial capital of the famous historical Vijayanagara Empire. Hindus, quoting the Ramayana believe that Hampi was a kingdom of monkeys, according to Ramayana, before the development of Vijayanagar Empire in pre-ancient age.It served as their capital for more than 200 years. All the beautiful temples, palaces, market streets and monuments were built by the Vijayanagara Empire.

Where did we stay?


Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneswri , Kamalapur 

How did we reach Hampi:?

We took an evening sleeper air-conditioned bus from Mumbai till the bus terminal at Hospet Town. From there, you can opt for one of the several local buses / auto rickshaws from Hospet to Hampi. 

For other options, you can have a look at this link: https://www.indyatour.com/india/karnataka/tour-spots/hampi-historical-tourism-information-kanataka.php

How did we travel in Hampi?

We hired local auto rickshaws who take you around for sightseeing. Renting a two-wheeler is also a good option.

What was the entire budget of the trip?

We spent a total of INR 6000/- from Mumbai and back per person. 

This included stay at the KSTRDC dormitory room and travel by local auto rickshaws. 

We spent thirty hours in Hampi and that is definitely not enough. You can easily spend a month in Hampi exploring the place and it’s culture. 

We left out many things due to lack of time. If you are someone who loves soaking in the architecture, history and the stories associated with the destination, then you will definitely need a lot more time. From being a backpacker’s haven to a historian’s riddle – Hampi’s got it all. 

See you soon! 
 

Maheshwar and Ujjain: Where Heritage Speaks And The Mind Soars

diksha iyer

Maheshwar and Ujjain, where Lord Shiva pervades, connects you to the heritage, culture and spiritual energy of India. Ahilya Bai Holkar’s legacy, the ghats, temples, streets and deep-rooted culture take you back in timeless time and elevate your consciousness as well as your conscientiousness. 

Maheshwar, “the abode of Lord Shiva” is a town situated on the banks of river Narmada in Madhya Pradesh. This peaceful riverside town has long held spiritual as well as historical significance. The town finds it’s mention by the name of Mahishmati in Mahabharata and Ramayana. It continues to draws pilgrims to its ghats and temples. 

Maheshwar is synonymous with Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar. A devotee of Lord Shiva and the Holkar Queen of the Malwa kingdom, she moved her capital of Holkar from Indore to Maheshwar. The entire town was constructed amidst the Holkar Fort. 

Rani Ahilya Devi’s simplicity is seen in the construction of this beautiful Maheshwar Fort and residing temples. It is said that she spent a major amount of her funds on the renovation of various temples across India. 

I had seen a couple of pictures of Maheshwar earlier, and was pulled by its splendor and simplicity. A town that looked like a miniature of Kashi, in no time made it to my list of must-visit places. 

We had gone to Indore to attend a wedding. Little did we know that it would be so difficult for us to take time out to make an excursion to Maheshwar. From the unavailability of cabs in the city outskirts (the wedding venue) to getting busy in the wedding functions to my father falling sick, our plans kept getting canceled. 

Finally, when we left for Ujjain, we reached a junction where Maheshwar was towards the right and Ujjain towards the left. We simply turned right and left for Maheshwar. There was something about the place which attracted us towards it. 

Statue of Rani Ahilya Bhai Holkar

We entered the town the Maheshwar and it felt like an accomplishment. We hired a guide to get better insights about the place. A grand statue of Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar holding a Shivling greets you at the entrance of the fort. 

We then entered Rajwada, which was the queen’s courtyard and palace. Her simplicity is seen in the construction and architecture of the palace. The palace is now partially converted into a heritage hotel. 

The most interesting part is Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar’s place of worship. There are rooms full of Shivlings from the Devi’s era and all of them are worshipped to date. During the reign of Maharani Ahilya Bai, she started the lingarchan puja. The puja was meant to bless all the inhabitants of the state. Everyday, 111 brahmins would prepare a board with 1,000 little shivlings made out of the soil of the fields, each ling representing the 1,10,000 population. The lingams were collected and finally offered to river Narmada. Even today, the tradition is continued by eleven brahmins. 

People here believe that every stone found in the river Narmada is Shiva in the form of a shivling. 

As you walk down towards the ghat, you can see the beautiful chaatrisand temples dotted along the banks of the river Narmada. 

On the way to the ghat

The ghat welcomes you with the magic of the river Narmada. The life source of Maheshwar, the river is said to have been born by the teardrop of Lord Shiva. You can feel the serenity and purity of the river in the whole atmosphere. As you walk on the ghat, you will see shivlings of various sizes placed along it. 

It is a beautiful place to just sit and watch the river flow by. We took a twenty-minute boat ride in the serene waters. Watching the ghat from the other side will make you fall in love with the place all over again. The boat ride also takes you to Baneshwar temple, located in the middle of the river. It is said that the temple is located on the axis connecting the center of the Earth to the North Pole. 

  • Baneshwar temple
  • captured during the boat ride
View from the boat ride

We visited the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, which is a re-creation of the original temple in Kashi. We came across pilgrims who had made a stop there doing their Narmada Parikrama. The parikrama is a 2,600 km journey which starts at Amarkantak in Madhya Pradhesh. (https://www.outlookindia.com/traveller/mp/inspire-me/culture/narmada-parikrama-great-circumambulation/). This was fascinating indeed! 

Intricate architecture

Next, we visited one of the most auspicious temples – Sri Rajarajeshwar Temple. This is again one of the many temples consigned to Lord Shiva. The temple is known for its Akhand Jyoti Deepak or the eleven eternal lamps that it houses. The lamps have been lit for many centuries. This temple is also partially dedicated to Sahastraarjun – the mighty king who made Ravana a prisoner for many years.

( More about the story of Sahastraarjun: https://www.quora.com/Who-was-Kartavirya-Arjuna-When-did-he-rule-What-was-his-story )

After strolling around the ghats for a while, we explored a couple of Maheswari handloom stores. The biggest living legacy of Rani Ahilya Bai is the Maheshwari Sari. The town is synonymous with its Maheshwari silk and handlooms. You can spot colorful handlooms as you walk around the town. Rehwa society is an NGO run by the Holkars to employee local women and keep the tradition of Maheshwar handlooms alive. 

Maheshwari handloom

This quaint riverside town with its rich heritage, serene Narmada river, century-old history, colorful streets, historic buildings and a rich spiritual connection, Maheshwar is always going to have a special place in my heart. 

At dusk, we left for Ujjain. This holy city of Ujjain finds its mention by the name of Avantika in the Puranas. It has been attracting pilgrims for more than hundred years. It is one of Hinduism’s seven sacred cities and also one the four cities that hosts the gigantic Kumb Mela festival every twelve years. We had dinner at Apna Sweets. Apna Sweets and Shree Ganga are two popular sweet and farsanshops in Ujjain. These two-storey shops also serve delicious food to indulge in.

The next day, early morning we visited the Mahakaleshwar Temple. Mahakaleshwar temple is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas and is said to be amongst the most sacred abodes of Lord Shiva. It is situated near the banks of the Shipra river and the lingam is a Swayambu (self-manifested). You can feel the positivity and divine energy in the temple complex. 

Life in the city of Ujjain revolves around this prestigious and powerful temple. Several food stalls around the temple serve authentic dishes. Our breakfast was set with hot Poha, kachoris and jalebis followed by a stroll along the magical Ram ghat. Witnessing the morning rituals being performed by the ghat by several Brahmins and Sadhus was a sight to behold. 

  • Breakfast
  • Poha and Kachori
Ram Ghat

The same day, we visited the Sandipani Ashram, Kal Bhairav Temple and Bhartrihari Caves.

As you enter the Sandipani Ashram, you’ll be calmed by the peaceful environs of lush greenery that is present in the temple complex. This is the spot where Guru Sandipani coached Lord Krishna, Balaram and Sudama. Gomti Kund, situated in the same complex, holds a blend of all the holy waters in the world which was collected by Lord Krishna. 

We visited the the Kal Bhairav Temple and offered alcohol as prasad. It is quite a sight to see the various brands of alcohol being sold near the temple to offer to the idol. It is indeed a unique experience. 

  • Kal Bhairav temple
  • Sandipani ashram

Later, we went shopping for some of Ujjain’s batik prints. Before heading back to the hotel, we stopped at Govindam Restaurant to enjoy Ujjain’s authentic local delicacy – Dal Bafna. 

Dal Bafna thali

With this, we ended our trip to Ujjain and headed back home. An undeniable spiritual energy pervades this charismatic temple town. You can feel it in the temples, river ghats and the alleyways. All the sacred spots in the city transform you back in time with their simplicity and mythological significance. 

Though this was largely a religious trip, I was stunned by the heritage, culture and mythological stories attached to these two fabulous towns. These places are what truly define our culture and preserve India’s diverse history.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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