Afternoon at the Masroor Rock Cut Temple, Himachal

What are the chances of you stumbling upon this amazing monolithic structure during your visit to Kangra in Himachal? Well very meagre! In these thirty years of my life I had never heard of this temple, but thanks to (and I am admitting this) my favourite TV show on Star Plus called Kya Qusoor hai Amla Ka. The show’s major sequence which was the wedding of the protagonists, was aesthetically shot at this location. Since then my curious personality kept calling out to me to visit this place. Here I was on the 16th August 2017, exactly after 70 years of India’s freedom. I managed to get my free days, packed my bags, took a flight from Mumbai to Delhi, then a bus to Dharamsala and finally booked a cab from Dharamsala to Masroor Rock Cut Temples.

These monolithic rock cut temples at Masroor, excavated from a single sandstone ridge, are located about 48kms northwest of Kangra town, via Gaggal in the district of Kangra in Himachal. It was a sunny day and my sweat was just adding up to the heat, and then this structure stood right in front of me. Built in the 8th century in a style not seen in Himachal, the temple is carved from a single block of stone and though originally dedicated to Shiva, has idols of Ram Sita and Lakshman housed in the sanctum presently.

Though in ruins, the temple complex still preserves on its walls, ceiling and pillars, a good number of sculptures and art motifs. Noteworthy among these are images of Siva on Lalatbimb (lintel) on the eastern doorway of the sanctum, the river Godesses Ganga and Yamuna on either side of the entrance doorway and elsewhere, three faced Siva, Skand, Ishan, Vishnu, Vaikuntha (Vishnu with additional head of a boar and a lion), human Varah, (Vishnu incarnated in human form with boar head), Indra, Durga, Karttikeya, Surya on the horse-drawn chariot, Buddha seated on simhasana, Eight Dikpalas (guardians of directions), flying Gandharvas, with jeweled crowns, celestial musicians (the drum and veena players), the Mithuna figure (amorous couple), and so on besides such art motifs as pot-and -foliage, lotuses, diamond- like lozenges, etc.

In all probability, the Masroor temple complex was built by a paramount ruler of ancient Jalandhar Kingdom of Punjab plains, or by a Katoch ruler under the supremacy of Yashovarman, A King of Kanauj. How many of you have actually visited a temple whose origins are still under scrutiny?

Another jewel in the crown is the water body where the temple’s shadow falls adding to its charm. The complex also has a school and a gram panchayat which showcases the village ways in the best possible way.

An afternoon well spent at this monolithic wonder. It talks volumes about the architecture and craftsmanship of that age which did not have efficient equipments.

How I wish the temple had more visitors who could admire this beautiful marvel … and if the government could do a little more to preserve this historical piece of wonder !!!

P.S. Please do check for the lizards, they act as a security squad surrounding the temple!!

P.P.S Thanks to my co traveller who patiently waited for me in the sweltering heat while I admired and took a hundred clicks.

https://thetravellogsite.wordpress.com/2017/08/17/afternoon-at-the-masroor-rock-cut-temple-himachal/