Dudhsagar Waterfalls
Type: Waterfall
Area: Inside Mahavir Sanctuary Goa-Karnataka Border
Base Village: Dudhsagar
Best time to visit: Monsoom
Time visited: July 2012
About: Dudhsagar falls lie high up in the Mandovi River's watershed and during the monsoon season the falls are transformed into one of the most powerful falls in India. The water plummets hundreds of feet in large volumes during the monsoon season, forming one of the most spectacular natural phenomena in Goa. It is a major part of the Goa ecosystem. This is a four tiered waterfall with a total height of 310 metres (1017 feet) and an average width of 30 metres (100 feet) and is 5th tallest waterfall in India.
Way to reach from Pune:
The waterfall is located between Castlerock and Kulem railway stations.
Option1- Kulem: Travel to Kulem Railway Station by Goa Express which stops at Kulem at around 5AM in the morning. It’s 12 KM- hike from Kulem to Doodhsagar. This is most exciting walk as you get a view of complete waterfalls and famous snapshot of railway chunking down across the waterfall. Travel back to Kulem and board return Goa Express to Pune at 4PM. Travelling back is pain and but you can request and board some freight trains and travel back to Kulem.
Option 2- Castlerock: Travel by Goa Express and alight at Castlerock station
at around 3 am in the morning. It 17-18 kms walk from Castle Rock to
Doodhsagar. I did see lot of them coming this way but unfortunately this missed
the wonderful full view of the waterfall.
Option 3- Dudhsagar: Alternatively get down a Dudhsagar Station. Note this is not a passenger Railway all trains might not stop here. But I did see Goa Express and Poorna Express taking a halt for a minute. Poorna Express comes at around 11.30 AM. Walk back 3-4 kms to get a full view of the waterfalls. You can board Goa Express at 4PM.
Important tips
- There’s heavy rush in the monsoons. So travelling without a confirmed ticket is bad idea. You would not get even standing space in general bogeys.
- Most preferred way for picnickers is probably travelling by Poorna and boarding back goa express both at Doodhsagar. We could see hundreds of people alighting from Poorna Express at 11.30 who boarded Goa express back at 4pm. Then again a lot of the board from Castlerock . Lot of people change trains at Belgaum. So till Belgaum the trains are packed and there’s hardly an inch to move. Ideally boarding a train from kulem would be safest option.
- There are chances of leech if you are walking. Apply Tobacco water of Diesel to keep leeches away.
- There is hardly any space to get in the waterfall to bathing and is very very risky and this should really be avoided. There are couple of waterfalls on the way too if bathing does matter:)
- There is only one vendor who sells some food items including hot tea near the waterfall. So it would be good idea to carry own food and water.
- At some places there is small pathway beside the tracks but where the path doesn’t exist it is slightly difficult to walk on the tracks. The stone do hurt and it would be good idea that you shoes have thick and strong soles. Ideally avoid walking on tracks!
- It you get a ride in freight train on return journey believe me its highly bumpy and jerky. You would thankfully realize what shock absorbers means for a normal train.
- There are 6 tunnels on the way. Carry a torch. Avoid a tunnel when train is passing through it. Its extremely deafening!
The whole group had travelled from Pune by Goa Express and got
down at Kulem at around 5AM in the morning. Since I was in Goa, I had hired a
Innova for a drop from Colva. Since I started at 4AM the driver charged me exorbitantly-
Rs 2000/- It was raining heavily but Reached safely at 5.15/5.30 AM to join the
rest of trek group. I guess we were around 50-60 people.
Kulem station is pretty small
and the only vendor had Bhopla-Puri
and hot tea. After the snacks we had introduction and warm-up session.
Note the 50/700 milestone. The Dudhsagar milestone is at about 38.
We started at around 6.30/6.45 AM. It was a pleasant morning and rains were still playing hide and seek.
Thick forest covered both sides. The visibility still was only 70%.
Trains kept whizzeing by with screeching noise.
Snails and worms were enjoying the cheerful weather.
We had to cross 6 Tunnels.
The wait was worthwhile.
Thousands of gallons of water gushed merrily into the gorge.
The walk continued till we reached actual waterfalls. There was huge rush.
And this was still 60-70% of the full flow due to scanty rains this year.
At 12 we walked a little forward at signal near Dudhsagar station. Poorna express had halted and thousands had alighted! After while we caught a frieght train back to Kulem and what a jerky ride it was! Reached back safely in time at 3PM. Goa express came slightly late but we boarded and started our return journey with wonderful memories....
Goa-scapes
Along with Morachi Chincholi we went to visit Rajan Khalge. Asia’s largest natural gigantic potholes in riverbed of Kukdi near Nighoj is an archeological site recorded in the Guinness Book of World records. This is a geographical phenomenon where the pebbles that are carried by the river get locked in the cracks developed in the basalt rock riverbed. These pebbles, which rotate due to the water current, form pot shaped cavities in the basalt rock over the hundreds of years. The interiors of potholes are smooth and regular. The miracle resembling the rock sculptures are are on the riverbed and the narrow walls of gorge through which river flows. The Gorge is just about 2-3 kms in length and is hardly visible from a distance. The fascinating formations with its looks of a canyon, would give you a chilling thought how mars or moons surface might be. Over the years the depth of these potholes has increased and villagers tell us that they could be even more than 100 feet deep at
Aguada Fort
Goa Trip
Type: Sea fort
Area: Panjim
Base Village: 13kms from Panjim
Best time to visit: Anytime of the year
Time visited: July 2012
Way to reach from Pune: Travel to Panji. It’s an Half an hour’s drive from
Panjim.
Much part of the Fort Aguada seems to be converted to a beach Resort. We were not sure if the lower area facing the sea was accessible as it seemed that entry was through Taj Vivanta. But we were able to see upper area with old light house and huge water tank inside the fortified structure.
The entry to is very pleasing and is one of the best maintained structures.
The History put up by Archeological survey of India talks in detail about this structure.
The main entrance is well protected gate not easily visible.
The Magnificent view from the one of the towers inside the fortress with the huge water tank in the center.
The fortified wall all around.
The huge tank with the old lightout house in the background.
The Powerful Bastion with trench around.
The lighthouse.
Chapora Fort
Goa Trip
Type: Sea fort
Area: Panjim
Grade: Easy
Base Village: 10kms from Mapusa, Vagotar/Anjuna beach
Time to climb: 20 mins Hours
Best time to visit: Anytime of the year
Time visited: July 2012
Way to reach from Pune: Travel to Panji. It’s an Half an hour’s drive – 20 kms from Panjim.
History as on Internet: Chapora Fort name derived from Chapora Riverwas
constructed by Adil Shah of Bijapur long before the Portuguese arrived
in Goa and was called Shahpura, ('town of Shah'), Even after the
Portuguese acquired Bardez, the fort changed hands several times and was
much sought after. Trying to end the Portuguese rule in Goa, Prince
Akbar joined his father’s enemies, the Marathas in 1683 and made this
place his base camp and it became the northern outpost of the Old
conquests. The Portuguese troops had to surrender to Sambhaj Mharaj in
1684. But discord boiled over between the locals and the Marathas.
Finally in 1717, the Marathas withdrew their force. The Portuguese then
took over again and rebuilt the fort. The new structure of the fort was
equipped with underground tunnels that ensured a safe getaway in case of
an emergency. Even this glory was not for long. Again in 1739 the
Marathas captured the Chapora fort. Two years later, in 1741, the
Portuguese regained the fort when the northern taluka of Pernem was
handed over to them.
I had covered lot seaforts in konkan 2years ago. So this time I was thrilled to get a chance to visit the Dil Chata Hai fame fort- Chapora. We were staying in south Goa near Colva beach. We started after having a breakfast and it took almost 2 hours to reach the fort.
On the way to the fort.
It’s a small climb of 20 minutes. There is very little space at the foothills for car parking. The boundary walls are clearly visible from the base.
A small gate takes you inside of the fort. If you look back you can see amazing view of huge number of coconut trees below.
Monument
The red laterite stone walls stand still facing the gushing winds and heavy rains.
Amazing view of the beautiful beaches- Anjuna and Vagator.
.
We proceeded to our next destination - Auguada fort.
कलोनियल गोवा
http://www.misalpav.com/node/40038
नुकतेच एका कौटुंबिक समारंभाकरीता कारवार येथे जायचे होते . समारंभ सकाळचा. म्हणजे, अगदी पहिले विमान पकडून गोव्यात गेलो असतो तरीही कारवारला पोहोचेपर्यंत प्रचंड दगदग आणि धावपळ होणारच होती. म्हणून मडगावला मुक्काम करून दुसर्या दिवशी कारवार गाठावे असा बेत केला. हाताशी तसा वेळ फार नव्हता आणि यंदा समुद्रकिनार्यावर जायचे नाही असे ठरवेलेलेच होते. तेव्हा मडगावच्या जवळपासच थोडे फिरावे असा विचार केला.
मडगावजवळच चांदोर नावाचे एक टुमदार गाव आहे. तेथे ३-४ शतके जुनी अशी बरीच पोर्तुगिझकालीन घरे आहेत. तेव्हा भटकंती तिथेच करावी असे ठरवले.
पहिले घर पाहिले, ते होते मेनेझिस ब्रागान्झा हाऊस. सत्तरीकडे झुकलेल्या एका आजीबाईने दरवाजा उघडला आणि स्वागत केले. घर सतराव्या शतकातील. उत्तम फ्लोअरींग, इटालियन झुंबरे, बेल्जियन आरसे, चीन-मकावहून आणलेली पॉटरी, साधारणपणे ८० माणसे बसू शकतील असा मोठा डायनिंग हॉल, चांदीची कटलरी आणि ते ठेवण्यासाठी असलेले सुबक लाकडी कपाट, पाच हजार पुस्तके असलेली खासगी लायब्ररी. जागोजागी लावलेली फॅमिली पोर्ट्रेट्स, खोल्यांमागून खोल्या जातच होत्या. आणि घराच्या अगदी मागच्या बाजूला, छोट्याश्या जागेत, आजीबाई आणि तिचे कुटुंब राहत होते!
(ब्रागान्झा हाऊस)
दुसरे घारदेखिल चांदोरमधीलच सारा फर्नांडीस यांचे . पहिल्याचा मानाने जरा लहान पण तरीही भव्यच! ही म्हातारीही सत्तरीकडे झुकलेली पण सोबतीला तरुण सून! येथेही तोच प्रकार. भल्या थोरल्या खोल्या, मार्बल फ्लोअरींग, जुने लाकडी फर्निचर, युरोपातून वगैरे आणलेल्या इतर वस्तू इत्यादी इत्यादी. मात्र घरची मंडळीही इथेच राहात होती. आणि स्वतःच्या राहत्या घरातूनच ते पर्यटकांना फिरवीत होते!
खरे तर ही फर्नान्डीस मंडळी पारंपरीक ख्रिस्ती गोमंतकीय खानादेखिल खिलवतात. पण त्यासाठी किमान एक दिवस आधी सुचना द्यावी लागते. ती दिली नव्हती म्हणून तो योग (इथे तरी) हुकला.
चांदोराहून निघालो तो जवळच असलेल्या लोटली (Loutolim) गावाकडे. इथे पाहिले अरौजो अल्वारिस यांचे घर. बराचसा मामला पहिल्या दोन घरांसारखाच. एक खास बाब म्हणजे "दिपाजी राणेंच्या गुंडांपासून" (sic), रोख आणि दागिन्यांचे संरक्षण करण्यासाठी बनवलेला मजबूत लोखंडी दरवाजा!
(अल्वारीस हाऊस)
लोटली गावातच एक छोटेखानी म्युझियम आहे. मुख्य आकर्षण आहे ते संत मीराबाई यांचे १४ मीटर लांब शिल्प. आणि शिल्पकार आहे अल्वारीस नावाचा एक स्थानिक लोटलीकर!
(मीराबाईचे शिल्प)
आता ह्या तीनही घरांचा लसावि काढला असता काय दिसते?
एखाद्या घराण्यात एक -दोन कर्तुत्ववान व्यक्ती निपजतात. त्या एक मोठे साम्राज्य उभे करतात. पुढील पिढ्या मात्र सामान्य वकुबाच्या निघतात. आहे त्या ऐश्वर्यात भर टाकणे त्यांच्या कुवती बाहेरचे असते. पण ही मंडळी ते फूकून टाकत नाहीत. काही उरले आहे ते जपण्याचा आटोकाट प्रयत्न करतात. मग त्यासाठी आपली राहते घर आणि मालमत्ता प्रदर्शानात का मांडावी लागेना!
हे सगळे पाहता पाहता अडीच वाजून गेले होते. कळवळून भूक लागली होती. आता पोट पूजा करणे क्रमप्राप्त होते.
असे म्हणतात, जर स्थानिक खाद्यपदार्थाचा आस्वाद घेतला नाहीत तर तुमची भटकंती अपूर्ण राहते!
साष्टी (Salcete) भाग हा बव्हंशी ख्रिस्तीबहुल. गोमंतकीय हिंदू खाद्य-संस्कृतीशी चांगलीच "तोंड"ओळख असली तरी, किरिस्तावी पद्धतीची माझी मजल विंदालू आणि सोर्पोतेलच्या पलीकडे गेली नव्हती. सारा फर्नांडीस यांच्याकडील संधी हुकली होती परंतु चौकशीअंती, चिंचोणे (Chinchinim) गावानजीक असलेल्या असोळणे गावात Seman's Nest नामक एक खानावळ ऑथेन्टिक ख्रिस्ती गोमंतकीय खाद्यपदार्थ देते, असे कळले आणि तिकडेच मोर्चा वळवला.
ठाण्याच्या मामलेदारची आठवण यावी असे कळकट्ट बाह्यरूप! दुपारचे सव्वा-तीन वाजून गेले असल्यामुळे, आता जेवण मिळणार नाही, असे सांगितले गेले. तेव्हा खास तुमचे नाव ऐकून मडगाहून आलो असे सांगून, पहिली ऑर्डर हीच शेवटची ऑर्डर, अशी मांडवली करून आत गेलो.
मत्स्याहारी खाणावळीत मेन्यू कार्ड बाजूला ठेऊन वेटरचा सल्ला घेणे इष्ट, कारण आजचा "फ्रेश कॅच" कोणता हे त्यालाच ठाऊक असते! तसे त्यालाच विचारले. त्याने मोडशो (Lemon fish) आणि चोणक (Giant sea perch) ची शिफारीश केली. ही नावे तशी कधीतरी कानावरून गेली होती तरी ते मासे प्रत्यक्ष कसे लागतात, हे काही ठाऊक नव्हते. अखेर, मोडशो आणि चोणक फ्राय, कलामारी (Squid) चे कालवण आणि भात, अशी पहिली आणि शेवटची ऑर्डर दिली.
तोवर किंचित पावसला सुरुवात झाली होती. आभाळ भरून आले होते. शेजारूनच साळ नदी संथपणे वाहात होती आणि समोर थाळी आली!
मोडशो आणि चोणकचा एक-एक तुकडा चाखला आणि मला मत्स्याहारातले फार कळते, हा अहंकार साळ नदीत बुडून गेला! निव्वळ अप्रतिम चव. कलामारीचे कालवण आणि भात हे काही मी पहिल्यांदा खात नव्हतो, पण ही चवदेखिल वेगळी आणि छानच होती.
खरा धक्का बसला तो बिल आल्यावर! ठाण्या-मुंबईतील कुठल्याही ठिकाणी किमान तिप्पटतरी बिल आले असते!
भरघोस टिप आणि दिलखुलास दाद देऊन बाहेर आलो.
हिंदू आणि किरिस्ताव यांच्या घराबाबत असे सरसकट विधान कदाचित करता येणार नाही पण किरिस्तावांची घरे टापटिपीची दिसतात हे मात्र खरे.
बोरी (Borim) गावातील बा भ बोरकर यांचे घर हे स्मारक म्हणून विकसीत करण्याचा घाट घातला गेला होता. त्याचे पुढे काय झाले ते कळले नाही.
हा 'फारिन' इन्फ्लुअन्स आहे. गोव्यात एक कायदा होता. त्यानुसार प्रत्येकाला आपापले घर, निदान त्याचा दर्शनी भाग स्वच्छ आणि व्यवस्थित रंगवलेला असणे आवश्यक होते. अगदी हिंदू देवळातसुद्धा एक सरकारी ऑफिसर येऊन स्वच्छतेची तपासणी करीत असे. इतकेच काय, मुंबई, वसई, दीव, दमण, पाँडिचेरी जिथे जिथे मोठ्या प्रमाणात क्रिस्टिअन किंवा युरोपीय लोक राहिले तिथे स्वच्छता आणि टापटीप आढळते. केरळातले किनारे आपल्या इकडच्या मानाने स्वच्छ आहेत. टूरिस्ट लोक काय घाण करतात तेव्हढीच. त्यांची घरे, चर्चेस व्यवस्थित निगा राखलेली असतात. त्यांनी कसलेल्या जमिनीसुद्धा हिरव्यागार, आखीवरेखीव दिसतात. एक इंचही जागा रिकामी ठेवलेली नसते. विरार, वसईकडे बाकीच्यांनी आपापल्या जमिनी विकल्या किंवा विकत आहेत. क्रिटिअनांनी मात्र त्या विकलेल्या नाहीत. मुम्बईत मरोळ, खोताची वाडी, वेसावे, चकाला, सहार, आंबोली इथली जुनी क्रिस्टिअन वस्ती अगदी लखलखीत होती. आता डीपी , बिल्डरलॉबी आणि अर्बन लँड सीलिंग अॅक्टमुळे अनेकांना जमिनीवरची मालकी सोडावी लागली आहे.
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