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Ekamra Kshetra Complete Walk Guide

BySubhadip Mukherjee September 4, 2021

This blog post is perhaps the most sentimental for me. It’s very personal and one day I will reveal the reason why but not today. This blog post happens to be one of my longest projects as it took nearly 4 years for me to finish it up.

Ekamra Kshetra is one of the most underrated and undersold tourist destinations of Odisha. This place could have been easy being compared with the pagodas of Bagan in Myanmar. Bhubaneswar is a temple city much more than what it projects.

I realized that most of the local tour organizers and guide books do not cover all the temples instead only feature the popular ones. This is when I thought of creating a single blog post covering all the temples and other important places located at Ekamra Kshetra.

I am sure not all tourists want to visit all the temples one by one but I felt it was important to list them down in a single blog post no matter how long it takes for me to complete.

The information about the temples is mostly taken from the information tablets placed outside each of the temples. I have not gone into extensive details about each temple since that would have been way too big for a single blog post. I have deliberately kept the information for the popular temples also to a minimum since you have enough information about them already online. The main objective of this blog is for the reader to take a walking tour of this part of Bhubaneswar city.

Please keep in mind that it will be a long walk thus prepare accordingly. Ideally, this can be done in a day during the winter season but rest of the months I would suggest you split it up into sections.

I will start the blog from the main temple that is Lingaraj Temple which is the largest temple complex out here and all the rest of the temples are scattered around this main temple.

History of Ekamra Kshetra

More than documented history it’s the mythology that people believe the most. Let’s take the mythological way to explain the history and significance of this place first.

So Shiva and Parvati had initially settled in Kashi (Varanasi) after their marriage. Slowly over time, Kashi became very populated and Shiva decided to go somewhere else to meditate peacefully.

Shiva decided not to tell Parvati about where he was meditating and decided to meditate in a jungle under a large mango tree.

This place is what is now referred to as Ekamra Kshetra or sometimes even referred to as Gupta Kashi or hidden Kashi.

Parvati came searching for him and during this saw hundreds of cows coming under a mango tree and milking on their own. She at once understood that Shiva was there.

Now historically this place once had over 700 temples. This region had hundreds of mango trees and as per Ekamra Purana, this place covered an area from Khandagiri hills in the west to Kundalesvara temple in the east, Balhadevi Temple on the north, and Bahirangesvara temple on the south.

Lingaraj Temple was at its center and the largest of all the temples in this region.

Locations of all the important places at Ekamra Kshetra on Map

For reference I have color coded different types of tourist attractions.

Pink Stars = Temples
Green Stars = Dharmashala & Matha
Orange Stars = Other Important Places
Blue Star = Tanks & Lake

Lingaraj Temple

This is perhaps the most famous temple in the Ekamra Kshetra. Built around the 6^th century AD by the Somavamsi dynasty rulers initially and then by Ganga dynasty kings. This is the largest temple complex in this region. The temple consists of the image of Vishnu which is worshiped here in this temple.

Originally the temple is believed to be under a mango tree thus the name Ekamra. Architecture wise this temple is built in Deula style consisting of Vimana, Jaganmohana, Natamandira, and Bhoga Mandapa. Apart from the main temple, there are nearly fifty smaller shrines all around the temple compound.

Panoramic View of Lingaraj Temple From Curzon Mandap – Ekamra Kshetra

Entrance to Lingaraj Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Chitrakarini Temple

This is a Vaishnavite temple located right next to Lingaraj Temple. This temple is set to have been built around 1238 to 12647 AD by Narasingh Dev I. This temple is dedicated to Saraswati.

The building style is that of Panchayatana with a central main temple consisting of sanctum sanctorum and Jaganmohana with four smaller shrines on each side around the temple compound.

Side View of Chitrakarini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back View of Chitrakarini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Rock Cut Panels at Chitrakarini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Shrine 1 of Chitrakarini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Shrine 3 of Chitrakarini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Shrine 4 of Chitrakarini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Maitreswara Temple

This temple is located next to Chitrakarini Temple. This temple is set to be built around the 12th – 14th century AD during the Ganga rule of this region. The architectural style is that of Pancharatha with Vimana and Jaganmohana. This is a Lakshmi temple.

Papanasini Tank is located within this temple compound.

Front View of the Main Shrine at Maitreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of the Main Shrine at Maitreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Stone Cut Panels at Maitreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at the Back at Maitreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

One of the smaller Shrines at Maitreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Makareswara Temple

This temple is located next to Maitreswara Temple. No plaques were found with the information on this particular temple. It was interesting to see that the local children use the premises to play cricket. There were two structures within this temple premises.

Aishanyeswara Temple

This temple is located at the back of Lingaraj Temple next to BMC hospital. This is a Shiva temple built around the 13th century AD. The architectural style is that of Saptaratha with Vimana, Jaganmohana, and Ganthihala.

Side View of Aishanyeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Shrine at Aishanyeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Yameswara Temple

Built around the 13th century AD this temple was built during the dominance of Ganga rulers. This temple is supposed to have been built by Yama.

All wishes will come true of a devotee if Yama Dwitiya is performed during the second day of the brighter half of Kartik month.

Entrance of Yameswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Yameswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Bakreswara Temple

This temple is located just opposite Yameswara Temple. The temple faces the east direction and consists of a Deula and Jaganmohana which is consistent with the Saptaratha style of construction.

Side View of Bakreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Bakreswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Baitala Temple

This is an 8th century AD temple that has architectural features of a Khakara style of temples. The roof has a semi-cylindrical structure with three spires. This temple has a Deula and a Jaganmohana.

This temple is dedicated to Chamunda.

Front View of Baitala Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back View of Baitala Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Stone Panels of Baitala Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Sisereswara Temple

This temple is located in the same compound as Vital Temple. This temple is also set to have been built around the 8th century AD and is dedicated to Shiva. This temple consists of a Rekha Deula and Jaganmohana with a flat roof.

Shrine at Sisereswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Gosagareswara Temple

This is a functioning temple and for some strange reason, it has been whitewashed over its original stone walls. Legend has it that once Shiva had killed a calf and as a penance for this took bath in the pond located right next to the temple.

Built around the 13^th century AD this is a Shiva temple and there are numerous smaller shrines around this temple.

Uttareswara Temple

This temple was built around the 7th century AD. This temple is located on the northern side of Bindusagar Lake. The temple has been built in Triratha style with Vimana and Jaganmohana. This is a Chamunda temple.

Tank at Uttareswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Asta Shambhu Temple

There are 8 small Shiva temples right next to the Uttareswara Temple which is set to have been built around 16th century AD. All these have been built in Pancharatha style with height ranging from 14 feet to 20 feet.

Parvati once expressed her desire for Ratrikida with Shiva while they were at Ekamra Kshetra and Shiva agreeing to this transformed himself into eight forms which are referred to as Asta Shambhu.

Asta Shambhu Temples next to Uttareswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

View of Bindusagar Lake from Asta Shambhu Temples – Ekamra Kshetra

Taleswara Temple

This is one of the smallest temples that is preset here at Ekamra Kshetra and consists of a small single room only. This temple is set to have been built around the 9^th century AD.

Nabakeswara Temple

This temple has been recently renovated and one of the most striking features is the huge ancient water tank within the temple compound which has cut but digging through a rock bed. The main temple is set to worship Shiva while there is another smaller shrine located right next to the main temple.

Front view of Nabakeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Nabakeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at Nabakeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Water Tank at Nabakeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Parasurameswara Temple

This temple gets its name from a Lakulisa teacher knows as Parasvara. Dated around the 7th century AD this temple is said to be one of the oldest surviving temples in this locality in its original architectural form. The temple plan is based on Triratha and has lavish stone works on the outer walls.

The temple structure consists of a Vimana and Jaganmohana. The detailed work consists of Nataraja, Saptamatrika, Surya, Durga along with musicians and other deities.

Shiva can be seen on three sides, front-facing which is above Jaganmohana depicting Ravana raising from Mount Kailash. The second shows Annapurna offering alms to Shiva. The third instance shows the marriage of Shiva.

Side View of Parasurameswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back View Parasurameswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View Parasurameswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Stone Cut Panels at Parasurameswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Daitesvara (Pabakesvara) Temple

This temple is almost hidden with trees and is located between two houses. You can hardly even see this temple as you walk on the street. The signboard outside this temple dates it between the 10 – 11 century AD.

Daitesvara (Pabakesvara) Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Kedar Gouri Temple

Built-in a classical Kalingan architecture style this temple is a function religious site thus photography is prohibited in the interior of the complex.

The Lingam located inside the temple complex is named Dakshina Murti installed in this place by Giriraj Himalaya.

Architecture point of view this temple has been built in Panchayatana style having both Vimana and Jaganmohana which is in a pyramidic shape. This temple complex also has another smaller Gouri temple built around the 10th century AD in Khakra style.

The temple complex also consists of a tank that is believed to have medicinal properties.

Entrance of Kedar Gouri Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Mukteswara Temple

Visually this is the most stunning in terms of architectural beauty. What is lacks in size is overcome by the sheer detailed stonework that you see in this temple. This temple could easily be considered one of the finest in terms of iconography. This temple was built around the 10^th century AD.

The most iconic structure in this temple compound is the Mangalatorana (arched entry gate). This temple is facing west and consists of Rekha Deul (Pancharatha style) and Pidha Jaganmohana.

Smaller Shrines at Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Musicians at Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Stone Cut Panels at Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Tank at at Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Other Smaller Shrines at Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Water Well at Mukteswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Siddheswara Temple

Located in the same compound and right next to the north of Mukteswara Temple. Visually this temple is a stark contrast to its beautiful neighbor (Mukteshwara Temple). This temple faces the east and its construction is dated around the 15^th century AD thus making it its younger neighbor.

Back View of Siddheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Siddheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Siddheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Inside Siddheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at Siddheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Champakeshwara Temple

Dated around the 13^th century AD this temple is built with Laterite stone in Pancharatha plan having a Vimana and Jaganmohana. The Shiva Lingam inside the temple is believed by the locals to have come out of the earth from below under earth (Patalaphuta) surrounded by Cobras (Champanagas) thus the name Champakeswara.

Entrance of Champakeshwara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Champakeshwara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back View of Champakeshwara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Champakeshwara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at Champakeshwara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Swarnajaleswara Temple

Built around the 7th century AD by the Sailodbhava Kings in Triratha style consisting of a single Vimana. This temple architecture consists of scenes from Ramayana on the outer walls. Another noteworthy feature is the Naga holding Purna Ghanta (full jar).

Side View of Swarnajaleswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Stone Cut Ganesha at Swarnajaleswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Kotiteertheswara Temple

This 11th century AD temple was built by Somvanshi kings ruling this region of Kalinga. The word Koti means a crore (one hundred thousand) and Tirtha means pilgrimage thus the name suggests that after a dip in the sacred tank if the Linga is worshiped in this temple, then that will be equivalent to a pilgrimage of crore visits.

The construction of this temple is in Pidha (Pyramidical) style having turrets and spires.

During the Chaitra month, the festivities of Damanka Chaturdashi are commemorated by transporting a representation of Lingaraj (Chandrasekhara) which is taken inside the temple and worshiped.

Kotiteertheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Kotiteertheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Kotiteertheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at Kotiteertheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Subarnajaleswara Temple

Built around the 9th – 10th century AD this is a Shiva temple. The original temple had been damaged and was recently renovated. The design pattern of this temple is in Pancharatha style with Vimana and an attached porch. One of the most notable features of this temple is Shiva and Parvati around the doorjamb.

Front view of Subarnajaleswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back view of Subarnajaleswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side view of Subarnajaleswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Sampoornajaleswara Temple

This temple is located right behind Subarnajaleswara Temple and architecture wise is a vast contrast to its neighbor. The outer walls are elaborately decorated in patterns and figures.

Back View of Sampoornajaleswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Pataleswara Temple

This is a very small temple located on the banks of Bindusagar Lake. The temple is roughly dated around the 10^th – 11^th century AD This is a Shiva temple.

Patal means underground and the temple is almost buried below the road.

Brahma Temple

The locals refer to this temple as Jagati Temple. This temple is located right in the middle of Bindusagar Lake and when there is water in the lake then one needs to use a boat to reach this temple. However during the peak summer season when the water dries up it can be reached on foot.

Anata Basudeva Temple

This is a functioning temple and photography is prohibited inside. This is also one of the most important temples in this region of Eekamra Kshetra. This temple is dedicated to Vishnu and is set to have been built around the 13^th century AD This temple has a huge kitchen from where Prasada are distributed.

Entrance of Anata Basudeva Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Temple Priest Entering Anata Basudeva Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Mohini Temple

This temple is located on the southern bank of Bindusagar Lake and is dedicated to Chamunda. Bindusagar Lake has a Chamunda temple on all of its four sides and this is one of them.

The construction of this temple dates back to the 9^th century AD.

Side View of Mohini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back View of Mohini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Mohini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at Mohini Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Marakandeswara Temple

Located near Mohini Temple at the south-west corner of Bindusagar Lake

Side View of Marakandeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View Marakandeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Back View of Marakandeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Foundations of another temple near Marakandeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Bhabani Shankara Temple

This temple is located very near to Lingaraj Temple located southern side of Bindusagar Lake. Bhabani is another name of Parvati. According to legends Parvati was staying at Ekamra Kshetra and was having a disguise of a cowherd. During this time Kriti and Basa who were demons found, Parvati killed both of them and crushed them deep underground. This made Parvati very exhausted thus she took a rest at the feet of Shiva. This temple was built on that very spot where the daemons were buried.

This temple dates back to the 14^th century AD built-in Tiratha format.

Bhabani Shankara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrines at Bhabani Shankara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Bhabani Shankara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Tertheswara Temple

This temple was built around the 14^th century AD and is located right opposite Bhabani Shankara Temple.

Suka Sari Temple

People often confuse this temple as a single entity “Sukasari” which is incorrect. In reality, the structure to the south is the Suka temple and to the north is the Sari temple.

Suka temple is set to have been built around the 13^th century AD during the Ganga rule of this region. The temple has been built in Sapratha style.

Front View of Suka Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Suka Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Smaller Shrine at Suka Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

While Sari temple is now in news due to the recent discovery of another temple structure of which only the foundation was found while the local municipal government was digging up the surroundings for the creation of a road. As of now, construction work has been halted and ASI (Archeological Survey of India) is carrying out excavation work.

Please note that I had taken prior permission from ASI officials before clicking photos of the excavated sections.

Similar to the Suka temple Sari temple was also built around the 13^th century AD during the Ganga rule. Built-in Panchayatana style having one central structure and is surrounded by four structures around the main structure. The newly excavated section could be part of those additional structures.

Side View of Sari Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Sari Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Newly Excavated Sections at Sari Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Remains of a Foundation at Newly Excavated Sections at Sari Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Remains of a Shrine Foundation at Newly Excavated Sections at Sari Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Proposed Further Excavation Sections at Sari Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Ganga Yamuna Temple

After Parvati killed the two daemons and buried them underground at Bhabani Shankara Temple she was tired and rested at the feet of Shiva and was very thirsty. On seeing this Shiva took his trident and struck on the earth and water sprang up. To bless this water goddess Ganga and Yamuna were summoned.

The Ganga rulers built this temple out here to commemorate this incident around the 13^th to 14^th century AD. The temple compound still has a water tank believed to be that same blessed water.

Tank at Ganga Yamuna Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Lakheswara Temple

This temple is located right opposite the Ganga Yamuna temple. Built around the 13^th century AD this is a Shiva temple.

Side View of Lakheswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Kartikeswara Temple

Similar to Ekamreswara Temple this temple was also buried under centuries of shifting topsoil and only recently has been somewhat restored while still, some renovation works are ongoing.

This temple is set to have been built around the 13^th century AD.

Dakara Bibhishaneswara Temple

Built around the 13th century AD this temple is set to have been built by Bibhisana who was the brother of Ravana. This is a functioning temple and has a deity which is known as the messenger to Lingaraja.

Purbeswara Temple

This temple was built around the 13^th century AD and since it is located directly east of Lingaraj temple thus is referred to as Purbeswara temple. The temple has recently been renovated but sadly significant of the top portion is missing. The temple is set to have been built during the Ganga dynasty rule.

Side View of Purbeswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Swapneswara Temple

This temple is tricky to locate as it has to be approached from the main road. Locals refer to this temple with a different name thus it’s tricky to locate.

This is a Shiva temple set to have been built around the 13^th century AD by Ganga rulers.

Back View of Swapneswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Side View of Swapneswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Front View of Swapneswara Temple – Ekamra Kshetra

Ekamreswara Temple

This temple is located near the front entrance of Lingaraja Temple. Almost buried this temple has been recently restored by removing earth from around its main structure thus giving us a detailed view of the portion which once was below the ground.

This is a Shiva temple set to have been built around the 11^th century AD.

Minor Laterite Temples

There are around 4 such small temples with twenty meters of each other. These are not at all maintained and some of them are right in the middle of the road while one is tucked behind an electrical transformer.

Kharakhia Vaidyanatha Temple

This is just an open space with Shiva Linga. It derives its name from the open-top as sun rays fall directly on the Linga.

Shyamesvar & Nilakanthesvara Temple

Located right next to Kharakhia Vaidyanatha Temple.

Apart from temples, Ekamra Kshetra has a few other important Mathas and Dharmshalas. These form an integral part of the once temple town.

Dalmiya Dharamshala

This dharmshala was built by Rai Bahadur Sedmull Dalmia in 1920 for pilgrims to stay here during their visit to this place.

Doodwawalla Dharamsala

This is another dharmshala located right next to Dalmiya dharmshala. Built-in 1928 by Raihazarimull Doodwawalla Bahadur.

Doodwawalla Dharamshala – Ekamra Kshetra

Jagannatha Matha

This matha is located to the south of Lingaraj temple near the Group of Laterite Temples.

Bharati Matha

This matha is located next to Yameswara Temple. It is said that this matha was originally constructed by Yajati Kesari who has constructed the Lingaraj temple.

Emara Matha

This matha is located next to Uttareswara Temple and is in a very dilapidated state.

A group of Mathas was also present in front of the Suka Sari temple but they have been removed for the planned expansion of the road around Lingaraj temple.

Apart from these, there are a few more interesting places to see at Ekamra Kshetra.

Curzon Mandap

So Lord Curzon the Governor-General of India wanted to visit the Lingaraj temple but as per tradition, only Hindus are allowed inside thus this platform was specially erected for Lord Curzon to see the temples from outside.

This structure is located on the northern side of the Lingaraj temple. You can get a truly panoramic view of this temple from atop the Curzon Mandap.

Marble Plaque Outside Curzon Mandap – Ekamra Kshetra

Lingaraja Haat

This plot of land is located on the southern side of the Lingaraj temple. Haat means open market and some date this market to 7^th to 8^th century AD and a market which has a close association with the Lingaraj temple itself.

Ekamravan

On the western side of Bindusagar Lake is a garden full of medicinal plants which have been created by the forest department for visitors. It’s a nice place to unwind and watch the calm waters of Bindusagar Lake.

Manikarnikeswara Ghaat

This is the ghaat at Bindusagar Lake dating back to the 15^th – 16^th century AD.

There are two tanks are out here which are considered holy and forms an important part of this region’s history.

Devi Padahara Tank

This is the main tank right in front of Lingaraj Temple. As per mythology, Parvati slew two demons here.

Papanasini Tank

As the name suggests the water from this tank is supposed to cleanse sin when someone takes a dip in it. According to legends, a sage named Sajoti performed severe penance by fasting without food and water for many days. Shiva happy with him asked for a wish and Sajoti asked for a tank of water that would cleanse the sin of humans.

This tank is located within the Maitreswara Temple compound.

Bindusagar Lake

This is the largest water body in Bhubaneswar and forms an important part of Ekamra Kshetra. The rituals associated with Lingaraj temples have a close association with the waters of the lake. At the center of the lake, there is a Brahma temple (locally known as Jagati temple).

This artificial waterbody is set to have been constructed between the 7^th and 8^th centuries AD.

Kora Khai

Being a foodie, I had to include this in this blog post. Kora Khai is one of the prasad given to the devotees out here and you can also buy them from shops located around this place. This is one of the main prasad at Lingaraj temple thus you must try this.

This is prepared by dipping Khai (puffed rice) in sugar and jaggery solution. Cinnamon and coconut pieces are added to the mix for taste and flavor. When it dries up then it turns hard and crunchy.

Important Tips

Not all temples allow photography thus see the sign clearly before taking photographs inside any temple.

Dress appropriately as these are temples and holy places.

Carry enough water as it’s a long walk to cover all if not most of the temples.

Try to break the tour into segments spread over two days which will be comfortable.

Temple priests might approach you to perform puja, please note that they will for sure ask for money after this if you agree. The same applies to blessings also.

For some temples, you need to remove your footwear so please keep this in mind.

Dress comfortably as it’s a long walk.

Carry umbrellas or sun hats to protect yourself from the sun.

Kaima Hill Buddhist Site

BySubhadip Mukherjee July 13, 2021

I am on a quest to visit all the Buddhist sites in Odisha and that means I have to visit some pretty odd site which one might not count as a tourist destination. I get the thrill of visiting these places but the same does not apply to the driver of the car hired to take me to these places. Mobile App based maps are not fully reliable when it comes to village roads of India. The next destination that I wanted to visit had a very funny incident while reaching this spot.

I was on the highway and instructing the driver about the turns. We had almost reached the destination with just a kilometer remaining the map indicated us to take a left turn, I informed the same of the driver and the car slowed down. There were no left turns visible to us, the only lane going left was a small unpaved mud road that too around twelve feet below with no possible slopes for the car to go down. We moved ahead and found a very steep road going down to meet that unpaved road. The driver confidently took the card downhill slowly and we were finally on the mud road as guided by the app. The next set of instructions completely stunned us as we were supposed to travel over two large ponds and then jump over a hillock. Realizing the blunder, we dropped the idea of using a GPS Map and asked few locals for the direction. We then took a detour and finally managed to reach our destination Kaima Hill.

The Lone Blue and White Signboard Signaling the Presence of An Archeological Site

What To See At Kaima Hill

Let me be dead honest with you in the beginning so that you do not have any misconceptions. There is very little to see out here and it’s more of an experience of being in this place rather than to see something physically present.

The most significant piece of history is the Rock Cut Elephant which stands at the bottom of the hillock. Previously this stone elephant was out in the open but recently it has been covered up and an iron gate has been put in front to protect it from miscreants.

The Covered Shelter Housing the Rock Cut Elephant

The 3rd Century BC Rock Cut Elephant at Kaima Hill

As per ASI (Archeological Survey of India) findings, this rock-cut elephant belongs somewhere around 3^rd century B.C. which can be roughly plotted during the reign of Maurya Dynasty rulers.

Other than this rock-cut elephant during the excavation process, several rocks cut Votive Stupas were found scattered around the hill. Two small stone pillars can still be seen places behind the rock-cut elephant enclosure. All the excavated materials have been shifted out thus you will not be able to see any of those.

Portions of Rock Pillar Kept at The Covered Room Housing the Rock Cut Elephant

Rock Pillar With Inscriptions Kept at The Covered Room Housing The Rock Cut Elephant

Take the stairs right next to this enclosure and up ahead you will find another such enclosure. Inside this enclosure, you will find some stones scattered around. Initially, I failed to realize and on a closer inspection these turned out to be rocks with various inscriptions.

The Staircase Next To The Rock Cut Elephant Takes You To The Room Housing Stone Inscriptions

Stones Containing Inscriptions at Kaima Hill

I was not yet satisfied with what I saw and wanted to explore the hill a little more. Despite the mid-day summer sun, I trekked up to the summit and then found the remains of excavation which were earlier carried out by ASI.

Some Kind Of Local Religious Practice at Kaima Hill

View of the Surrounding Hills from the Summit

Around the 11^th century A.D., there was a functioning monastery out here as per the findings. Nothing of this structure is visibly left standing and only the area around the summit of the hill can be assumed to be its original position.

There are some caves located on the other side of the hill which now is part of a temple where the locals worship. This cave can be seen from the main road and I skipped this as nothing much remain from the original period of history.

Panoramic View Of Villages From Top Of Kaima Hill

Location of Kaima Hill

Tips

Try to visit this place around in the morning before the midday sun. The short climb to the top can be grueling in the summer heat. Once you reach the top look around and you will get a 360 view of the surrounding landscape.

Carry water as the long climb surely would need some hydration.

Wear protective clothing to shield you from the harsh sun.

Avoid the rainy season as the rock surface can become slippery and difficult to walk on.

Bajragiri Buddhist Site

BySubhadip Mukherjee July 4, 2021

My Buddhist tour of Odisha continues with my next blog on another interesting Buddhist site in Odisha. Buddhist viharas were once spread across the states of Bihar, Bengal, and Odisha. The ones in Bihar are famous for being popular tourist destinations but there are quite a few of them across Odisha which is very less frequented by tourists since not much excavation has been done which could have compared them to other nearby places like Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, and Udayagiri. If you place Bajragiri on the map then you can see its proximity to these sites and that what makes this region of Odisha so special.

How to Reach Bajragiri

There are no direct connections to reach Bajragiri from Bhubaneswar of Cuttack. It is around 80 Kilometers from Bhubaneswar station. Its located in the Jajpur district so the nearest railhead is Jaupur station. You can take a train to Jajpur and then reach this place but I do not have any information about the available travel options. Its best recommended that you hire a car to reach this place. I am almost certain that the car driver would not have heard about this place so it’s better to explain to him by showing a map on your phone about the exact place that you want to reach.

Since this is not a place that tourists visit thus the roads are not that well maintained and done be surprised if the map on your phone takes you to a dead-end or a missing bridge. I had to face this myself as a portion of a bridge was missing and the car had to turn back and a short detour took me to the other end of the bridge.

Another challenge is asking the locals for directions as they have no clue whatsoever about the importance of this place and its direct connection with Buddhism. The best way to ask the direction once you are nearby is to ask for Bajragiri Mahavidyalaya. This place is the high school in the village which is located on to of a hill and this very hill is a heritage site.

What to see at Bajragiri

There are two sites at Bajragiri one the high school (Bajragiri Mahavidyalaya) itself where you will find some Buddhist sculptures scattered around the school compound. These include figures depicting Buddha and pieces of carved stones which clearly would have belonged to a large structure.

Usually, the Buddhist monks built monasteries and stupas atop hills. These had two advantages one was that from the top they could have a clear view of the surroundings and that of any approaching danger. Also, it was easy as a pointer on a map.

Like we have a place like Udayagiri which means the hill from where the sun rises or Pushagiri which means the flowering mountain Bajragiri is derived from fusing two words Bajra which means lightning and Giri meaning mountain. So this place was referred to as the lightning hill.

Top of Bajragiri Hill – It is Unexcavated

Main Entrance to Bajragiri Mahavidyalaya School Compound

Keep a note that this place is a fully functioning school thus if you happen to visit on a weekday during the daytime you will find students who for sure will be staring at you. Anyways these students were very helpful in pointing me in the right direction where I could find the stone sculptures. There are about six to eight such pieces of stone located in one corner of a field near the school. Covered in vegetation initially it becomes difficult to spot them. I am sure during monsoon season it would be even difficult to spot them.

Scattered Stone Structures Hid Behind The Vegetation at Bajragiri

Unidentifiable Stone Structure at Bajragiri

While leaving the school premises a man approached us speaking the native Odia language. Luckily, I do understand the language fluently and I could make out that the headmaster wanted to speak to me. I was worried as this could mean trouble as I had entered the school premises without taking any permission. I reluctantly went inside to find a room full of teachers and seated in the middle was the headmaster of the school.

After offering me tea the headmaster of the school asked about me and I told him that I was a blogger with an interest in Buddhist sites across Odisha. Surprisingly all the teachers and the headmaster were very happy that I had come from Bhubaneswar and told me how these few pieces were scattered all over the hill and they managed to collect them and put them at a central location.

They also informed me that down the hill there is a village on the left where there was an excavation done by ASI (Archeological Survey of India) a few years back and that site also has lots of artifacts. Thanking them for this vital piece of information I drove next to this village to locate someone and half kilometers downhill. The site was located within the village and was surrounded by houses. There used to be a signboard clearly which is now missing and only the metal frame of that signboard remains erect. The site has a boundary wall but clearly, it was not enough for the locals to stop using this place to store cow manure which was later shaped in discs and left to dry all around the heritage site. The iron gate which was placed there to keep the site safe remains wide open for anyone to just walk across.

The Village Located Below the Foothills of Bajragiri Hill

The Heritage Site Barricaded By A Stone Wall at Bajragiri Village

The Almost Broken Iron Gate Guarding The Buddhist Heritage Site

Once you enter this site you can make out that this place had some big stone structures as you can see foundation stones and other longs pieces of stone slabs which for sure would have belonged to a bigger structure. The floral patterns on these stone foundations had similarities with other Buddhist sites nearby.

One You Enter Through The Gate You Come Across This View Of The Heritage Site

Local Villagers Using This Site To Dry Cow Manure

A Little Down You Slowly Get To Slowly See Some Stone Structures

Scattered Stone Fragments Probably From Some Larger Structure

These Stones Of Various Size Was Part Of Bigger Stone Structure

Stone Blocks Which Usually are Part of a Wall

Design Patterns Carved on Stone Blocks at Bajragiri

Larger Stone Blocks With Clear Joining Sections at Bajragiri

Various Stone Blocks With Channels at Bajragiri

The one-piece that stood out was that of the headless Buddha. This could have very well been a Stupa while the monks used to stay uphill in their monasteries. From this place you can see the Bajragiri Hill where the school is located and where we found the smaller stone structures.

Tips For Visiting Bajragiri

Try and avoid monsoon season as the roads become very difficult to drive also a little unsafe.

Summer months will be hot so always prefer an airconditioned car.

Carry snacks and water as these places do not have any decent eatery.

Start early from as this place is located 80 Kilometers and takes nearly two hours to reach. Visit during the daytime and make sure you return by 4 PM.

The car will pass through multiple toll gates thus have a clear understanding of the charges that you have to pay to the car.

Book the car on basis of distance covered and not point to point so that at the end of the trip there is no confusion on the car hire charges.

The driver might confidently tell you that you are visiting the wrong place as he would expect all tourists to visit popular tourist spots like Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, and Udayagiri. So be firm and confidently tell him to follow your mentioned route.

If traveling during monsoon make sure to carry umbrellas and during summer months a sun hat is a must.

Pushpagiri Vihara – Langudi Hill

BySubhadip Mukherjee April 27, 2021

Hiuen Tsang (Xuanzang) a name that has fuelled my imaginations for decades. I first read about him when I was in class 4 and the image that I vividly remember was a Chinese bald man with a rucksack made out of a stick on his back. He walked to India from China just to learn about Buddhism in India.

He traveled across India especially to Bihar and Odisha recording all the monasteries and viharas. Based on his description many modern historians have managed to trace back major important Buddhist sites across India. Places that were once lost thanks to his accounts were traced.

One such important place which Hiuen Tsang had visited when he traveled to Odra (Odisha) was that of Pushpagiri. We all are well aware of the Diamond Triangle consisting of Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, and, Udayagiri but there was once a place much bigger than these three which Hiuen Tsang had referred to as Pu-Sie-Po-Ki-Li.

History of Pushpagiri

Historians had always had this problem of perfectly pinpointing the Pushpagiri that Hiuen Tsang had mentioned in his writings. The main issue was that previously no archaeological sites had been excavated with any direct reference to Pushpagiri. There is a Pushpagiri in Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, and Kerala, we can completely rule out Karnataka and Kerala but Andhra Pradesh with its proximity to Odisha was always a confusing factor.

Portrait of Hiuen Tsang Tokyo National Museum - Public Domain — Portrait of Hiuen Tsang Tokyo National Museum – Public Domain

Langudi Hill in Jajpur district of Odisha was not much excavated previously. As recent as 1995 – 1996 basic excavations were done on this hill. Langudi was overshadowed by the great archaeological finds at Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri and, Udayagiri. But if you place Langudi on the map you may be surprised by its proximity to all these three sites.

During the excavation, a fragment of the inscription was discovered written in Brahmi. The type of Brahmi used here puts these inscriptions within a date range of 1^st – 2^nd century AD. One of them was Sri Pushpasabharagirayah this when translated can be read as “The Illustrious mountains with the load of flowers”.

The second inscription also in early Brahmi is Konasakkhay which translated to “Off the staff (bearing) school (sect)”.

The next inscription excavated out here are in three lines as (Pu)phagiri Kak-k(a), nana-haladharakasa, Prarachavalasa. These when translated reads like “Of Prarachavala the ploughman of Pushpagiri Kanana (garden)”

At a later stage, another inscription was found from this location which had Pispasiriviha(r)e which can be translated as “In the monastery of Pishpagiri (Pushpagiri)”.

Keeping in mind the significance of the above inscription during the excavation of Langudi Hill it’s almost certain that this place is indeed what was once referred to by Hiuen Tsang as Pu-Sie-Po-Ki-Li.

Further excavations during 1999 – 2000 found fragments of pottery, pillars, etc. One interesting find during this excavation process was that of an inscription fragment with the words Ami Upasaka Asokasa Samchiamana Agra Eka Thupe “In prominent stupa of the accumulated height of Ashoka”. Now this changed the significance of Pushpagiri as this script directly refers to Ashoka the great ruler who was known to have constructed several Stupas during his lifetime.

It is very much logically possible for Hiuen Tsang to have visited this place considering the significance of its relation with Ashoka. During his trip around Odra, he had visited ten stupas that were built by Ashoka.

Location of Pushpagiri Langudi Hill

Excavation of Langudi Hill

ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) has concentrated more on Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri and, Udayagiri considering the vast amount of visible artifacts found in this location and are still planning to extend the exvacation at Udayagiri. Very little has been excavated at Langudi Hill and the vast size of the hill will take a significant amount of effort and resources if it was to be excavated in detail. Around two years back a team from ASI restarted excavation at the top of the hill and reminisce of those activities can be still be seen on top.

Following This Main Path Will Lead You To Langudi Hill (Pushpagiri)

Once You See The Hill Take The Left Path Way

Cultivated Lands From The Surrounding Villages Around Langudi Hill

What to see at Langudi Hill (Pushpagiri)

Langudi is a fairly large hill and luckily there is only a single entry point to this archaeological site. Once you enter the site you climb uphill first and then take left (walk northwards) towards the remains of the foundation of the large stupa. Nothing much remains of the stupa except for the main foundation and the broken staircase. The material used in the construction of the stupa was mainly laterite stones and terracotta bricks.

Remains Of The Main Stupa of Pushpagiri – Langudi Hill

Remains Of The Broken Staircase of the Main Stupa of Pushpagiri – Langudi Hill

(Back View) Remains Of The Main Stupa of Pushpagiri – Langudi Hill

From the remains of the stupa walk east around 50 meters and you will come across a series of rock-cut small votive stupas. One side of the hill has these small stupas in various sizes, some carved into the hillside with only one side visible with some have three dimensional shaped structured.

Rock Cut Stupas & Votive Stupas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Rock Cut Stupas & Votive Stupas of Various Sizes of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Votive Stupa With The Image Of Buddha Still Recognizable at Langudi Hill

Close Up Showing Figures Of Humans on Rock Cut Stupas & Votive Stupas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Votive Stupas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Image of Buddha On a Rock Cut Stupa of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

On the south side of the hill which can roughly correspond to the hilltop facing the stupa, you will find rock-cut sculptures of Buddha and Tara in various states. Similar to that of the votive stupas you will find the figures of Buddha carved into the hillside.

Some of the formations or mudras in which you can see here are Dhyani Buddha (Samadhi Mudra), Tara, and four armed Prajnaparamita, Avalokitesvara, Buddha in Bhusparsa Mudra, etc.

Go Southwards Towards The Top Of The Hill To Find The Rock Cut Buddhas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Rock Cut Buddhas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Rock Cut Buddhas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill (Side View)

Rock Cut Buddhas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill (Front View)

Images of Dhyani Buddha (Samadhi Mudra), Tara and four-armed Prajnaparamita, Avalokitesvara at Langudi Hill

Smaller Rock Cut Buddhas of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

Rock Cut Buddhas & Votive Stupa of Pushpagiri at Langudi Hill

If you climb to the northeast section of the hill you will be able to see the excavated sections by ASI. You can see stone foundations that have been dug out indicating that once there were bigger structures on top of the hill. Pushpagiri had a monastery (Vihara) attached to it, while we can only see the foundation of the stupa the main Vihara of the monastery must have been somewhere around the hill.

Pushpagiri Excavation Site At Langudi Hill

Apart from these one interesting thing to note out here are the scattered stone bricks all around the hilltop. This indicates that either these scattered pieces were part of the main stupa or there must have been other structures around the hill that do not exist anymore.

Scattered Remain of Laterite Stone Block of Pushpagiri Excavation Site At Langudi Hill

Tips

You can easily plan to visit Langudi (Pushpagiri) along with a trip to Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, and, Udayagiri it’s very near to the Udayagiri excavation site.

No tickets are required for entry to this site.

There are no guides around here thus I would suggest you take a copy of the location of the map on your mobile for easy navigation.

This particular site is completely desolate thus I would recommend visiting only during daytime and avoid late afternoon to evening time.

Carry water bottles as the climb to the top especially during hotter months can be a bit of a workout.

There is a caretaker at this site and you can request him to unofficially show you the archaeological site. Do remember to tip him later as a thank you gesture.

This place is not equipped for tourists with special needs.

When I was there I could not see a properly functioning toilet thus plan accordingly.

References

Excavations at Udayagiri-2, 1997-2000 by Bimal Bandyopadhyay

Dhauli Hill

BySubhadip Mukherjee April 30, 2021

Dhauli is the very first place that I remember visiting as a tourist along with my parents way back in 1994. I did visit Puri the Miami for all Bengali’s before that when I was very young but I do not remember those trips. If I remember it correctly my sister did not travel with us and it was just an extension of an official trip for my parent. Honestly, for me, it was a very boring white structure on top of a mountain but what I enjoyed was the variety of snacks, peanuts, cashew nuts that were being sold out there. For me, it was just an outing one evening and nothing more.

The next time I visited Dhauli was in the year 2019 when I was traveling along with others bloggers on behalf of Times of India and Odisha Tourism covering Buddhism trails in Odisha. It was in February and along with that, we had special VIP seats at the Dhauli Kalinga Festival.

What To See Around Dhauli Hill

Dhauli Shanti Stupa
Dhabaleswar Temple
Rock Edicts of Ashoka
Ashoka Pillar & Buddha Statue Park
Kalinga Dhauli Mahotsav

Dhauli Shanti Stupa

There are quite a few interesting sites at Dhauli Hill which is also known as Dhauligiri. People usually go there to see the Dhauli Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda) which understandably is the most visually appealing structure out there. However, this is not a historical site as such. Construction of this peace pagoda commenced on 25^th August 1971 and was completed and inaugurated a year later on 8^th of November 1972. The construction was led by Japan Buddha Sangha and the Kalinga Nippon Buddha Sangha under the leadership of Nichidatsu Fuji Guruji who has been known for building peace pagodas around the world. Apart from Odisha that had also built the Shanti Stupa at Rajgir in Bihar.

The stupa has four large stone Buddhas on the east side, two of them in a seated position while one is lying down and the other standing upright.

Statue of Buddha On The Western Side (Main Entrance) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Statue of Buddha On The Northern Side – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Statue of Buddha On The Eastern Side (Back Entrance) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Statue of Buddha On The Southern Side – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

The stupa has two layers of tablets, the lower layer most probably made out of white cement and the middle layer made of stone. These depict the life of Buddha, his enlightenment, and teachings. There is a top layer that has patterns of nature consisting of birds, animals, and trees. There are 12 panels in each of the lower, middle, and top panels. There are four yellow-colored panels on top of the four Buddha statues. In each of the four directions, you will find a pair of a lion on each side.

Lower Panel 1 Starting Clockwise From Main Entrance – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Middle Panel 1 (Starting Clockwise From Main Entrance) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Upper Panel 1 (Clockwise From Main Entrance) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Panel On Top Of Buddha Statue (West) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Panel On Top Of Buddha Statue (North) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Panel On Top Of Buddha Statue (East) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Panel On Top Of Buddha Statue (South) – Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Lion Overlooking The Villages at Dhauli Shanti Stupa

The stupa can be approached from the main entrance from the western side of the southern side which can be accessed after crossing Dhabaleswar Temple.

Try to visit this place in the evening so that you can enjoy the 3D Light & Sound Show in the evening.

3D Light & Sound Show at Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Dhabaleswar Temple

Right behind the Dhauli Peace Pagoda, you will find this temple. This temple was rebuilt in the year 1972 on the very spot where the original ancient temple once stood.

Rock Edicts of Ashoka

Apart from the Dhauli Peace Pagoda, the single most important thing out here is the Rock Edicts of Ashoka. The reason it is more of significance is that it is believed that in this very place Ashoka witnessed the massacre of the people of Kalinga done by his army. The Mauryan army destroyed the Kalinga army, it is believed that over 2,50,000 people lost their lives in this battle in the year 261 BC.

The Kalingan army was very strong and had previously stopped Chandragupta Maurya from annexation of Kalinga to the Mauryan empire. Ashoka was a strong leader and he had to prove a point and for him, the victory had to be at any cost.

The victory did come but the bloodshed that came along with it was unfathomable. The battle took place where the Daya River flows near Dhauli and it said that from here Ashoka saw the carnage that had been done. The water of Daya River had turned red with the blood of the slaughtered Kalingan army.

Daya River As Seen From Dhauli Shanti Stupa

The victory was not sweet anymore for Ashoka and he realized his mistake and vowed never to bring this type of destruction anymore in his kingdom under his rule. He took an oath of Ahimsa (non-violence) and that of Dharma Vijaya (victory through cosmic law and order).

At Dhauli you can find one of the most important Edicts of Ashoka. Surprisingly this important historical site is rather simple with just a stone elephant carved out from the stone. This elephant is a representation of Buddha.

Location of Rock Edicts of Ashoka at Dhauli

Location of Rock Edicts of Ashoka at Dhauli Which Now Has Been Converted Into A Park

Location of Rock Edicts of Ashoka at Dhauli – The Rock Now Is Encased In This Room

The Stone Elephant Carved Into the Hill Symbolizing Buddha

Ashoka’s Mother Had Dreamt About An Elephant Before His Birth

Elephant Is One Of The Most Revered Animal in Buddhism

Rock Edicts of Ashoka Now Sits Enclosed To Protect It From vandalism

Out here in Dhauli, you will find only Rock Edicts 1 to 10 & 14. Rock Edicts 11 & 12 were replaced by Kalinga Rock Edicts 1 & 2. Rock Edict 13 is said to have been purposely removed as it detailed the Kalinga war and the deaths. All of these are in the Prakrit language which was written using Brahmi scripts.

You will find the following edicts out here (summary version) :-

Rock Edict 1: Prohibition of the killing of an animal in the kingdom including his royal kitchen and imposition of restrictions on festive occasions.

Rock Edict 2: Arrangements were made both for human and animal beings for medicinal treatments and plantation of medical herbs both in his and bordering kingdoms. Planted trees and dug wells on the roadsides.

Rock Edict 3: Ordered his officials to set out on tour every five years to propagate moral codes among his subjects.

Rock Edict 4: Ordered his officials to promote the practice of morality and compassion among his subjects and wishes that these practices would be followed by his descendants.

Rock Edict 5: Appointed Mahamatras from all sects to establish and promote morality.

Rock Edict 6: Ordered his officers to report him on matters of administration related to the affairs of the people at all times and all places.

Rock Edict 7: Self-control and purity of mind are objects of attachment for all sects.

Rock Edict 8: On the tenth year of his anointment, he went out to Sambodhi which was followed by a visit to the Brahmanas and Sramanas, helped the poor, and propagate morality.

Rock Edict 9: Recommended the practice of morality, consisting of courtesy to slave and servant, reverence to elders, gentleness to animals, and liberality to Brahmanas and Sramanas.

Rock Edict 10: Proclaimed that morality is the only act of fame and glory.

Rock Edict 14: Inscribed way of morality at various places in his vast empire according to the subject matter and places.

Kalinga Rock Edict 1: Addressing the Mahmatras of Samapa, Asoka proclaims that all his subjects are just like his own children and he wishes their welfare and happiness both in this world and the other as he desires for his children. He orders his officials to be free from anger and hurry so that nobody will be punished without trial.

Kalinga Rock Edict 2: He ordered the Mahamatras of Samapa to assure his piety to the unconquered border territories of the forest region (Atavikas).

Ashoka Pillar & Buddha Statue Park

This is a replica of the famous Ashoka Pillar, please do not compare it with the grandeur of the original pillar as it’s just a smaller replica.

Right opposite this you can spot few Buddha statues. The authorities must have been planning to make this place into a park but my guess is it’s unfinished.

Kalinga Dhauli Mahotsav

If you are traveling during February then plan your trip to Dhauli along with Kalinga Dhauli Mahotsav. It’s a festival that spans three days and you can see classical as well as modern dance performances. I was honestly quite impressed by the scale of the event and the quality of production.

Tips

It is advisable that you come to Dhauli either in your vehicle or if you are coming by cab or auto then book it both ways as its very difficult to get return transportation from the top Stupa location.

Very neat and clean washrooms are available for tourists which are located near the Stupa.

All the tourist attractions around the hill have no tickets and are open for all.

The replica Ashoka Pillar and Buddha Statues are located on the back road that directly connects the Dhabaleswar Temple.

Resources

Odisha Tourism
Maurya And Sunga Art by Niharranjan Ray

Panchu Pandav Caves -Bhubaneswar

BySubhadip Mukherjee May 2, 2021

Being born in the 80s has its advantage. We have seen the transformation of black & white television to OTT streaming services on your mobile. Others have also witnessed this change but for us, it was a transition that we saw from childhood to adulthood. The one thing that made every child crazy was mega television serials like Ramayan, Mahabharat, Chandrakanta, etc.

For many of us including me mythology being played out on television was something really enjoyable, especially the war sequences. We were mesmerized by the scenes where one would launch an arrow and then it would multiply and sometimes transform into a thunder or a snake. So one thing that these two mythological television serials did was to solidify the main characters into our minds.

I simply happen to chance upon this site by mistake. I was traveling and this signage had crossed me which pointed to something called “Panchu Pandav Caves”. It was easy to understand that it had everything to do with the five Pandavas and I decided to read about it when I get back to my guest house.

History of Panchu Pandav Caves

According to the epic Mahabharata which revolved amongst its central character of the five Pandava brothers (Yudhishthir, Bheem, Arjun, Nakul, Sahadev) who were sent to exile for 13 years along with their mother Kunti. Now here comes the problem wherein you will find various caves across India claiming to be the place where the Pandavas had taken refuge inside a cave.

One such cave can be found in Bhubaneswar which is known as Panchu Pandav Cave. The word Panchu can be easily translated to Panch or five. Unlike the rest of the heritage structures in and around Bhubaneswar, this place does not feature amongst its popular tourist trails.

According to various reports, this place was left to nature and a few years back even entry to this site was difficult as it was completely covered in shrubs and other vegetation. This place has been recently restored and beautified and thankfully it is now possible to visit these historic caves.

The signage outside the caves tells us the date of 5^th – 6^th Century AD which does not match up with the timeline in which the original Maharabhat was written which historians put somewhere as early as 400 BC. So there is a thin line between history and beliefs thus will let that matter be not judged and let each person decide what they want to.

Location of Panchu Pandav Caves

How To Reach Panchu Pandav Caves

Address: Badagada Brit Colony, Pandav Nagar, Bhubaneswar

Since this is not a popular tourist destination thus do not be surprised if Auto and Cab drivers do not know the route. It’s better to pinpoint the exact location on your phone map and then book a mobile app-based cab or auto. Since this place is located within city limits thus you do not need to keep the vehicle booked you can always book your return journey with your mobile app.

Boundary Wall Around Panchu Pandav Cave at Bhubaneswar

Signage Outside Panchu Pandav Cave at Bhubaneswar

What To See at Panchu Pandav Caves

This archaeological site is under ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) but there are no entry tickets to this site. Finding a parking spot near the entry gate can be tricky as this is a residential locality and all along the roadside you will find private vehicles parked. What is more shocking is that they have not spared the entry gate also as you will be able to see private vehicles blocking the main entry gate.

Panchu Pandav Cave Ancient Heritage Spot in Bhubaneswar

Even though this place is called Panchu or Panch (five) Pandav you will not find five caves instead you will find only three caves out here. The first cave has been converted into a temple and high chances you will find the temple priest out there either performing puja or spending time out there.

First Cave at Panchu Pandav Cave Which Have Been Converted Into A Temple

Not many tourists come here so the temple priest gets excited whenever he sees someone in the compound and will surely approach you to ask if you want him to perform puja and get blessings. It’s completely up to you and don’t feel pressured, just keep in mind that you will surely have to give some offerings in terms of money if you ask them to perform a puja.

Panchu Pandav Cave Bhubaneswar – First Cave Which Has Been Converted To A Temple

The caves are relatively small in terms of space and the first one being the largest of the three still feels small. As you enter the first cave you will be able to see the images of Navagraha on top of the entry door. As you enter the cave chamber you will find a series of idols and images on your left. At the center of the cave, you will find a stone cut Nandi facing towards the gods.

Navagraha Outside The Gate of The First Cave at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

On the main altar, you will find images of Jagannath, Subhadra & Balaram since this being Odisha so this is a common deity. At the center, you will find a Shiva Linga surrounded by snakes (Naag) made out of metal. Next to this, you will be able to see a stone image of the Pandavas. Yudhishthir can be seen sitting and surrounded by his four other brothers. Next to that, you will find a female deity that can be possible of Draupadi. There is another altar right next to it towards the interior and that has a Durga idol.

Nandi Bull at The First Cave at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Idols Inside The First Cave at Panchu Pandav Cave

Idols of Jagannath, Subhadra & Balaram; Shiva Linga; Pandavas Inside The First Cave at Panchu Pandav Cave

Pandavas Inside The First Cave at Panchu Pandav Cave

Apart from the main chamber in the first cave, you will find another smaller chamber to the left which remains locked behind a gate. Peeping through it most likely looks like a portion of the cave has been converted into a storage section.

Smaller Chamber To The Right at Panchu Pandav Cave

Outside this first cave, you will find a well that now has been covered. According to the locals, this well is also ancient and was used by the Pandavas during their stay at this place.

The Historical Ancient Well at Panchu Pandav Cave

The next two caves are up ahead around ten meters from the first cave. The second cave is smaller than the first one and is empty. There is an iron gate in front of the cave to keep outsiders going in. This depth of the cave is around 10 feet in depth with a height of around 5 feet and a width of around 15 feet.

View of Cave 2 and Cave 3 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Cave 2 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Front of Cave 2 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Locked Gate - Front of Cave 2 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar — Locked Gate – Front of Cave 2 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Interiors of Cave 2 (Central Section) at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Interiors of Cave 2 (Left Section) at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Interiors of Cave 2 (Right Section) at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

The last one being the smallest would measure around 10 to 12 feet in width with a height of 4 and a half feet and a depth of around 6 feet.

Exteriors of Cave 3 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Front View of Cave 3 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Locked Entrance to Cave 3 at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Cave 3 (Left View) at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

Cave 3 (Right View) at Panchu Pandav Cave in Bhubaneswar

All three caves have been extensively supported with additional concrete roofs and additional pillars to support the concrete roof. The entire area has good landscaping however I feel that too much concrete has been used especially around the tile flooring around the three caves which makes this site look a little artificial. A little bit of greenery would have merged the stone caves with their natural surroundings.

Overall this is a small place to cover and it would at the max take around 30 to 45 minutes.

References

The Telegraph

Khandagiri Caves – Bhubaneswar

BySubhadip Mukherjee April 26, 2021

Continuing with my Udayagiri and Khandagiri trail this blog is the second part and this blog takes you around the caves of Khandagiri. If you want to know more about Udayagiri then please refer to my previous blog.

Khandagiri is the twin hill located right next to Udayagiri. Unlike Udayagiri which requires a ticket to enter this hill though under ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) is not ticketed and not directly managed by ASI. This poses a different problem as some of the caves are used by locals and hermits to spend a leisurely day away from the sun. Some of them even dry their clothes on the stone cut sculptures and inscriptions without obviously understanding their significance. Some caves have also become makeshift shops and people sell peanuts and popcorn.

Caves at Khandagiri are a bit difficult to locate as they are numbered in a very odd pattern. I have tried my best to track all of them but out of the 15 caves I have tracked and visited 13 of them, the rest two caves are on the other side of Khandagiri Hill is a desolate location that I felt was unsafe to visit alone. I wanted to visit it last time that I was in Bhubaneswar but unfortunately, all the tourist sites were shut due to a pandemic.

Location of Udayagiri and Khandagiri

Khandagiri Hill Located Right Opposite To Udayagiri

These Flight of Stairs Takes You to The Top Of The Khandagiri Hill

Locations of Each Caves At Udayagiri

Cave 1 – Tatowa Gumpha

This is the first cave but not the first cave that you will see once you enter Khandagiri and go up the stairs. To reach this cave you need to go right once you reach the first level and go till you get another flight of stairs taking you to the upper level. Instead of going up you will find another path leading downwards, follow this and you will reach this cave.

The name of this cave comes from the word parrot as you will find a stone-carved parrot at the entrance. However, I could not see this and assume that it was once visible but now weathered away. You will find two dvarpalas on both sides of the entrance. This cave has a single pillar and two entrances leading to a single chamber.

Interiors of Tatowa Gumpha at Khandagiri

Inscriptions Inside Tatowa Gumpha at Khandagiri

Cave 2 – Tatowa Gumpha

This cave also has the same name as the first one and is located at the junction from where you had gone down to see Cave 1.

This cave has two pillars and three doorway leading to a single cave chamber. On the walls, you will find some remains of stone cravings.

Interiors of Tatowa Gumpha at Khandagiri – Stone Cut Doorways and Pillars

Interiors of Tatowa Gumpha at Khandagiri – Decorated Stone Pillars

Cave 3 – Ananta Gumpha

To reach this cave you must take the flight of steps going up. This cave has netted barrier but sometimes it is kept open.

This cave has three pillars supporting the veranda with four entrances. Inside you will find some stone carvings on the wall. Once inside you will find three doorway leading to a single chamber.

Interiors of Ananta Gumpha at Khandagiri

Interiors of Ananta Gumpha at Khandagiri – Stone Cut Doorway Panels

Cave 4 – Tentuli Gumpha

To reach this cave you must come back to the lower section. This cave is located on the right of the main staircase leading you from the road.

This cave has a single column that has a symbol of an elephant on top. Inside there is two decorated entrance leading to a single chamber.

Tentuli Gumpha at Khandagiri – Stone Carved Elephant On Top Of The Central Stone Pillar

Interior Chamber at Tentuli Gumpha at Khandagiri

Cave 5 – Khandagiri Gumpha

This is the very first cave that you would see once you enter Khandagiri hill after climbing up the stairs. This is a very simple cave with a single pillar (restored) with a single open chamber.

Cave 6 – Dhyana Gumpha

The next set of caves are located towards the left of the main staircase. This is a very wide cave with not many interesting features.

Cave 7 – Navamuni Gumpha

Located right next to Cave 6 this cave according to me is the most interesting one. It looks very simple from the outside but what matters is what you get to see inside. On the right side of the back wall, you will get to see stone cut panels of Jain Tirthankaras. The word Nava means 9 and muni means hermit.

On the back wall, you will find images of 7 Tirthankaras on the top row. Rishabhanatha, Ajitanatha, Sambhavanatha, Abhinandannatha, Vasupujya, Parshvanatha, and Neminatha.

Below those 7 Tirthankaras on the back wall, you will find 8 images. The first one on the left is that of Ganesha followed by Yakshi of the individual Tirthankara.

On the right wall, you will find two Tirthankaras which are Parshvanatha and Rishabhanatha.

On the left wall, you will a solitary image of Chandraprabhu.

Apart from these images, you will find inscriptions around this cave. Around five inscriptions are found here.

Navamuni Gumpha at Khandagiri – Back Wall With 9 Tirthankaras and 9 Yakshis

Navamuni Gumpha at Khandagiri – Right Wall With 2 Tirthankaras

Navamuni Gumpha at Khandagiri – Left Wall With 1 Tirthankaras

Navamuni Gumpha at Khandagiri – Back Wall Note The Ganesha Panel On The Extreme Lower Left

The next two caves have now become a part of a temple complex. The locals come to this temple to worship the twelve-handed image of Durga which is known as Barabhuji.

The Two Caves Which Are Now Part of Temple Complex

The Two Temples Are Covered In This Enclosure at Khandagiri

Cave 8 – Barabhuji Gumpha

This cave has several Jain rock-cut panels inside but the most popular is that of Barabhuji or twelve-handed Durga which is worshiped and devotees come here in the hundreds to worship her.

Image of Twelve Handed Durga at Barabhuji Gumpha at Khandagiri

Barabhuji Gumpha at Khandagiri – Back Wall With 18 Images

Interiors of Barabhuji Gumpha at Khandagiri

Cave 9 – Trusula Gumpha

This cave is located right next to on the left of Barabhuji Gumpha. Most of the time the gate remains closed and I managed to see whatever was visible from outside.

Interiors of Trusula Gumpha at Khandagiri

Cave 10 – Ambika Gumpha

The next set of caves are located on the left of caves 8 & 9 which have been converted into a temple. The main cave is seen as the roof has collapsed. What you see three sculptures on the top. The three include two males (Rishabhanatha) and a female (Amara).

Ambika Gumpha at Khandagiri - The Most Probable Location Of The Original Cave — Ambika Gumpha at Khandagiri – The Most Probable Location Of The Original Cave

Ambika Gumpha at Khandagiri – Roof Not Present

Ambika Gumpha at Khandagiri – Rock Cut Images On Top

Cave 11 – Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha

This is the last cave in this section similar to the previous cave the portions of the original cave have collapsed and you can see most of the stone sculptures located on the top section with no visible floors.

The right chamber has three reliefs which consist of two Rishabhanth and one Parshvanatha.

The left chamber has five sculptures of two Rishabhanth and three Parshvanatha.

Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha at Khandagiri – Right Chamber With Three Rock Cut Images

Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha at Khandagiri – Left Chamber With Five Rock Cut Images

Cave 12 – Unnamed Cave

The next two caves are located on the south side of Khandagiri hill. Follow the small path from Lalatendu Keshari Gumpha going towards the left. After reaching a rock-cut tank which is known as Radhakunda. A little up ahead is this cave which now has no physical resemblance to a cave. What can be only made out is that once it had two chambers separated by a wall at the center. Now, however the ceiling or the walls nothing remains.

Cave 13 – Unnamed Cave

Just another 10 meters from Cave 12 you will find remains of another cave. The condition of this cave is slightly better as you can somehow find a portion of the ceiling while the pillars are gone and only remains its foundation.

Cave 13 – Unnamed Cave at Khandagiri – Pillar Foundations

Cave 14 – Ekadasi Gumpha

Unfortunately due to pandemic Udayagiri and Khandagiri site has been closed to tourists and only visitors to the Jain and Hindu temples are allowed. The location of the cave is near Shyamakunda which lies around the South-West of Khandagiri Hill. I will try to get photos of this cave whenever I get the opportunity to visit Bhubaneswar again.

Cave 15 – Unnamed Cave

I also could not visit this cave and is most probably located somewhere near a cave called Guptaganga. I will try to cover it during my next visit.

Digamber Jain Temple

One of the major tourist attractions at Khandagiri is the Digamber Jain Temple which is located right at the top of Khandagiri and can be easily spotted from all around. Historically it is believed that King Kharavela had built a temple at this very spot. However, the temple that you now see is a much newer structure due to its construction style and design. Photography is prohibited within the temple compound.

Overall it will take nearly half a day if you want to cover both Udayagiri and Khandagiri cave complex. Do give some time to each of the caves in both the hills as each one of them is unique in itself and has a story to tell if you look close enough.

View of Udayagiri From Top of Khandagiri

Important Tips

The hills are completely open to nature which means during summer take precautions like a hat or an umbrella.

During monsoon make sure you carry umbrellas and be careful as the ground can become slippery.

Guides are available who tell you that they are official but there is no way to verify that. If you need a guide make sure you are clear about the guide charges and the duration of his service.

There are Langur monkeys around the hill which are usually brought there by their keepers for visitors to click photo. They usually ask you to buy peanuts from them to feed them so that you can click photos. Sometimes these monkeys tend to be a bit excited and grab food items from visitors.

Carry bottled water as the climb around the hill can be very tiring and you would surely need to rehydrate.

You can carry light snacks with you as there are several benches around the hill where you can rest and have a quick bite. Just remember not to throw trash around the site instead use the waste bin provided to discard anything.

You need to buy tickets for Udayagiri but Khandagiri does not require any tickets.

For pandemic physical tickets are no longer sold instead you need to scan a QR code and buy tickets online. While entering you need to show the e-ticket inform of a QR code which the official will scan and let you enter.

Udayagiri Caves – Bhubaneswar

BySubhadip Mukherjee April 22, 2021

The name Udayagiri is very confusing, if you Google it then you will get many different results from Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, etc. The confusion arises due to the name which is a confluence of two words “Udaya” (morning) and “Giri” (peak) which translates to Morning Peak or the hill on which the first morning rays fall from the sun. The name being common was used across many historical places as a landmark.

In Odisha, there are two Udayagiri, one in Bhubaneswar and the other in the Jajpur district. While the one in Bhubaneswar is a Jain site and the one in Jajpur is a Buddhist complex. The one in Bhubaneswar is commonly known as Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves as these are a set of two hills having multiple natural and manmade caves. Apart from caves these two locations also have some manmade water tanks carved out of the hill.

I had first visited these caves in 2019 and started documenting them one at a time. Initially, I wanted to write a single blog consisting of details of the individual cave but then I realized that there are too many caves and it’s better to write two separate blogs. In this blog, I will cover all the caves of Udayagiri only.

History of Udayagiri and Khandagiri

The history of these caves dates back to around 1^st Century B.C. These caves were built by the then Kalinga King of the Chedi Dynasty. This region was then ruled by King Kharavela who was leading the spread of Jainism in this region. He took this project as a shelter for the Jain monks who would be traveling around and would need someplace to rest and sleep. Since these were monks who required very less earthly pleasure and preferred the very basic thus rock-cut caves and natural caves were the best options for these Jain monks.

Jain monks were hermits thus did not stay at a place for a long time instead moved from one place to another preaching the wisdom. Most of the caves had a slanting floor that acted as a bed and raised section on one side which acted as a pillow. During the monsoon season in this region of India which lasted around four months the Jain Monks would ride out the monsoon in these caves.

The twin hills had a very well water management system with tanks cut out on the hills at various sections and channels for draining out rainwater.

It is also said that King Kharavela would often visit this place and meet his subjects and also enjoyed various cultural performances.

It is said that once both the hills had around 113 caves but now only 18 caves at Udayagiri and 15 caves at Khandagiri have been identified by the archaeologists. Don’t be surprised to see many cave-like structures around both the hills which are unnamed as these are usually simple cave which has not been identified.

Location of Udayagiri and Khandagiri

Locations of Each Caves At Udayagiri

How to Reach Udayagiri and Khandagiri

Udayagiri and Khandagiri are located with Bhubaneswar town thus can be easily reached by private car, app cab or auto. There is a large official parking space near to this heritage structure thus you should not be worried about transportation.

What to see at Udayagiri

Udayagiri is a ticketed site and is under heritage site is well guarded and maintained by ASI (Archaeological Survey of India). As you enter the cave complex you can go in various directions as the caves are all spread out. The numbering of the caves is also not in any particular order. The map at the entrance gives you the position of caves but it’s a bit tricky to find out their exact location in reality.

It took me some time to figure out the locations of each cave. I had to at least go through the entire cave complex three times to map the locations of each of the recorded caves.

Cave 1 – Rani Gumpha

To reach this cave you have to take the right path as you enter Udayagiri. This is the largest cave complex and one of the most beautiful ones. This cave has multiple sections and is on two floors.

The ground floor has a 180 degree spread with a large central hall and one on each side. The central hall has seven rock-cut doors. Do check out the caves on your right as these have some of the most beautiful rock-cut structures.

You can get to the top floor from the rock-cut stairs on the left side or get to the top from the right side by climbing out random stone blocks.

The central hall on the top floor has nine pillars. Some portions of the interior of the central hall still have beautiful rock-cut patterns, dvarpalas, etc.

The room on the right on the top floor has some beautiful depiction of war and other lives of the royalties from that era. I am not getting into the details of each of the sections as these have been written extensively and I cannot add something new.

Rani Gumpha – View of Ground Floor and Top Floor

Rani Gumpha – View of Chambers of Central Section on the Ground Floor

Rani Gumpha – View of Chambers of Central Section/Right Section on the Ground Floor

Rani Gumpha – View of Chambers of Central Section/Right Section on the Ground Floor – Walls Decorated With War Scenery

Rani Gumpha – View of Chambers of (Interior) Right Section on the Ground Floor

Rani Gumpha – View of Chambers of (Exterior) Right Section on the Ground Floor

Rani Gumpha – View of Chambers of (Exterior) Right Section on the Upper Floor Guarded by Dwarpalas

Rani Gumpha – View of Pillars & Chambers of Central Section on the Upper Floor

Rani Gumpha – Interior Chambers of Central Section on the Upper Floor – Depiction of War Can Be Seen

Rani Gumpha – Interior Chambers of Central Section on the Upper Floor

Rani Gumpha – View of Central And Right Sections From Top

Cave 2 – Bajaghara Gumpha

This cave is located on the left side of Rani Gumpha and from the main entrance side this is located in the extreme right.

This cave has around four pillars, one of which is not that prominent and merged with the main structure. The interior is very simple. One thing you must notice is most of the floors of the caves have a slant position with an extra elevation towards the head side. Most of the Jain monks slept directly on the floor and the slant was like a natural bed with the raised section towards the head acted as a stone pillow.

Bajaghara Gumpha - Udayagiri — Bajaghara Gumpha – Udayagiri

Interior Chambers of Bajaghara Gumpha at Udayagiri

Cave 3 – Chotho Hanthi Gumpha

As the name suggests this cave has an elephant cut out on the front. The single cave has a huge rock bolder on top. Pillars were later added to support the top weight. There is one big elephant on the top right and the rest of various sizes spread out. In total there are six rock-cut elephants at the cave.

Chotho Hanthi Gumpha at Udayagiri – Rock Cut Elephants Decorated Around The Entrance

Cave 4 – Alkapuri Gumpha

This is a double-storied cave. The lower section is simple with just one chamber and two stone pillars. The upper section is single-chambered with stone pillars.

Alkapuri Gumpha at Udayagiri – View of Upper and Lower Section

Alkapuri Gumpha at Udayagiri – Upper Section

Alkapuri Gumpha at Udayagiri – Rock Cut Panels Depicting Elephants & Humans

Alkapuri Gumpha at Udayagiri – Rock Cut Panels Depicting Horses

Cave 5 – Jaya-Vijaya Gumpha

This is also a double-storied cave. The one at the bottom is simple while the one on the top has rock-cut figurines. At the entrance, you will see two female dvarapala while the interior has two chambers that have decorated the top front.

Jaya-Vijaya Gumpha - Udayagiri — Jaya-Vijaya Gumpha – Udayagiri

Jaya-Vijaya Gumpha at Udayagiri – Upper Section

Jaya-Vijaya Gumpha at Udayagiri – Upper Section – Two Female Dvarapalas

Jaya-Vijaya Gumpha at Udayagiri – Interiors of Upper Section

Cave 6 – Panasa Gumpha

This cave is located right next to the path that takes you to the middle section of Udayagiri hill. It’s a small single vaulted cave that has two pillars. These pillars were added later for structural support.

Panasa Gumpha - Khandagiri — Panasa Gumpha – Khandagiri

Cave 7 – Thakurani Gumpha

This cave has a double-storied structure. While the one at the bottom is large the one at the top is very small. You can see a tiny portion of the carved section on the top left of the bottom section.

Thakurani Gumpha - Udayagiri — Thakurani Gumpha – Udayagiri

Cave 8 – Patalapuri Gumpha

This cave is almost at the top of the slanted walkway to the top. This is a very simple cave with two pillars, the internal chamber has four doors leading to a single chamber.

Cave 9 – Manchapuri and Svargapuri Gumpha

As the name suggests this is a cave with two floors. The lower floor is known as Manchapuri Gumpha consisting of four cells, the lower section has an inscription from the time of Vadukha and a depiction of the royal procession.

The top section is known as Svargapuri Gumpha and contains inscriptions.

Manchapuri and Svargapuri Gumpha - Udayagiri — Manchapuri and Svargapuri Gumpha – Udayagiri

Manchapuri (Lower Section) at Udayagiri - Dvarapalas — Manchapuri (Lower Section) at Udayagiri – Dvarapalas

Manchapuri (Lower Section) at Udayagiri – Interior Chambers

Manchapuri (Lower Section) at Udayagiri – Stone Cut Panels Depicting The King And His Subjects

Manchapuri (Lower Section) at Udayagiri – Inscriptions

Svargapuri Gumpha (Upper Section) - Udayagiri — Svargapuri Gumpha (Upper Section) – Udayagiri

Svargapuri Gumpha (Upper Section) at Udayagiri – Interior Chambers

Svargapuri Gumpha (Upper Section) at Udayagiri – Inscriptions

Cave 10 – Ganesh Gumpha

The location of this cave is on the extreme right once you reach the middle section of the hillock. This is one of the important caves in this section. It gets its name from the stone cut Ganesha in the interior section. On the outside, you will find two stone elephants. The entrance to the cave has been cordoned off with petal poles so you need to see the detailed stonework in the interior sections.

This cave has two cells with a veranda in the front and has detailed works in the interiors.

Ganesh Gumpha at Udayagiri – Dvarapala On The Left and Two Stone Cut Elephants On The Right

Ganesh Gumpha at Udayagiri – Close Up Of Stone Cut Elephants

Ganesh Gumpha at Udayagiri – Rock Cut Panels On Top Of The Interior Sections

Ganesh Gumpha at Udayagiri – Rock Cut Panels On Top Of The Interior Section Depicting War By The King

Ganesh Gumpha at Udayagiri – Ganesha inside the Interior Chamber

Cave 11 – Jambeshvara Gumpha

This simple cave with a pillar at the center and two sections. This cave is located on the extreme left of Hathi Gumpha right next to the stone stairs leading to the top of Udayagiri Hill.

Cave 12 – Bagha Gumpha

As the name suggests this cave has been cut to the shape of a tiger’s face with an open mouth. The open mouth portion is the cave in itself.

Inscriptions inside Bagha Gumpha at Udayagiri

Cave 13 – Sarpa Gumpha

Sarpa means snake and the shape of this cave is similar to that of a snake’s head.

Sarpa Gumpha at Udayagiri – Lower Section

Sarpa Gumpha at Udayagiri – Upper Section (Rough Inscription Can Be Seen On Top)

Cave 14 – Hathi Gumpha

This is the largest cave in the top tier and this is the cave that you will see when you climb up the elevated path from the bottom of the hill. Caves 10 and 11 are to the right of this cave and caves 12 and 13 are to the left of this cave.

The reason this cave is so famous is due to the large stone inscriptions in the Prakrit language written in Brahmi script by the great ruler Kharavela the ruler of Kalinga around 2^nd century BC.

Inscriptions of Kharavela Inside Hathi Gumpha at Udayagiri

Translation of the inscriptions:-

In the very first year of his coronation (His Majesty) caused to be repaired the gate, rampart, and structures of the fort of Kalinga Nagari, which had been damaged by the storm be built a flight of steps for the cool tanks and laid all gardens at the cost of thirty-five hundred thousand (coins) and thus pleased all his subjects.

In the second year, without caring for Satakarni (His Majesty) sent to the west a large army consisting of a horse, elephant, infantry, and chariot, and struck terror to Asikanagara with that troop that marched up to the river Kanhavemna.

Then in the fourth year, (His Majesty) the Vidhadhara tract, that had been established by the former kings of Kalinga and had never been crossed before. The Rathika and Bhojaka chiefs with their crown cast off, their umbrella and royal insignia aside, and their Jewelry and wealth confiscated, were, made to pay obeisance at the feet (of His Majesty).

And in the fifth year, (His Majesty) caused the aqueducts that had been excavated by king Nanda three hundred years before, to flow into [Kalinga] Nagri through Tanasuli.

And in the seventh year of his reign (the Queen) of Vajiraghara, blessed with a son attained motherhood.

In the 8th year of his reign, he attacked Rajagriha in Magadha and forced a Yavana king to retreat to Mathura.

In the 12th year of his reign, he attacked the king of Uttarapatha. Then brought back the holy idols of Kalinga’s Jain Gods (The Blessed Tirthankars) which earlier Magadha rulers had carried away with them after the Kalinga War in the Past. Tirthankar’s idol was brought back with its crown and endowment and the jewels plundered by king Nanda from the Kalinga royal palace, along with the treasures of Anga and Magadha were regained.

He then attacks the kingdom of Magadha, and in Pataliputra, the capital of the Shunga Empire makes king “Bahasatimita” (thought to be the Shunga King Brhaspatimitra, or Pushyamitra himself) bow at his feet.

Cave 15 – Dhanaghara Gumpha

The location of this cave is towards the extreme right of Hathi Gumpha. There is a path taking you to the top and you do not go up instead look towards your left and you will find this cave.

This is a cave with two pillars, on the top of each pillar you will find remains of some carvings which cannot be made out properly. On the left, you will find a Dvarapala.

Dhanaghara Gumpha at Udayagiri – Dvarapala on The Left And Two Stone Pillars

Decorations On Top Of The Interior Chamber of Dhanaghara Gumpha at Udayagiri

Cave 16 – Haridasa Gumpha

Go extreme left from Sarpa Gumpha and you will find the next three caves. This cave has a single pillar in the center and has three doorways past a veranda leading to a single cave.

Cave 17 – Jagannatha Gumpha

This is the only cave in Udayagiri that has been restricted entry with netted doors. This cave has three pillars and in the interior, three doors are leading to a single room.

Cave 18 – Rasui Gumpha

This cave is located in the extreme left on this level of the hill and the last one on this level. This is a very simple cave with a single doorway.

Apart from these 18 caves, there are several smaller and even mid-size cave-like structures all around the Udayagiri hill. These have not been numbered or named and can be found scattered around the hill. You will also find several water tanks which have been cut into the hill to preserve water for the monks during dry seasons.

Apsidal Chaitya Griha

If you take the path going to the very top of Udayagiri Hill then you will be able to see a vast stone structure on the ground. This was once a Jain shrine which historians have placed around 2^nd century B.C.

From the top of Udayagiri you can also see the Khandagiri Hill. This I will cover in my next blog post.

View of Khandagiri Hill From Top Of Udayagiri Hill

Important Tips

The hills are completely open to nature which means during summer take precautions like a hat or an umbrella.

During monsoon make sure you carry umbrellas and be careful as the ground can become slippery.

Guides are available who tell you that they are official but there is no way to verify that. If you need a guide make sure you are clear about the guide charges and the duration of his service.

Carry bottled water as the climb around the hill can be very tiring and you would surely need to rehydrate.

You need to buy tickets for Udayagiri but Khandagiri does not require any tickets.

Chausath Yogini Temple Hirapur

BySubhadip Mukherjee March 12, 2021

There are only five Chausath Yogini (64 Yogini) temples in India which are located in Khajuraho, Hirapur (Bhubaneswar), Ranipur (Jharial), Morena, and Bhedaghat. The very first 64 Yogini or Chausath Yogini temple that I had ever visited was in Khajuraho. That one was unique since that is the only square Chausath Yogini temple also this one is incomplete ruins with none of the 64 Yoginis deities present.

The next Chausath Yogini that I managed to visit was during a trip to Bhubaneswar a few years back. It took me another visit to shoot all the Yoginis individually

Location of Hirapur Chausath Yogini Temple

Though this one is in Bhubaneswar geographically it’s a bit on the outskirts. Locally the temple is popularly known as Mahamaya Temple. I would suggest that you visit this temple during the daytime and avoid late afternoon trips considering its remote location.

The best way to reach this temple will be either by App Taxi, Auto, or your vehicle. If you are traveling by an App Cab or Auto then I would recommend you to book the vehicle for a return trip inclusive of a waiting time. It will be difficult for you to get a return transport otherwise.

About Hirapur Chausath Yogini Temple

This temple is set to be built somewhere between the 8^th – 9^th Centuries AD. However, there is no concrete conclusion by historians as to which dynasty was responsible for the construction of this temple. Approximately the Bhanja Rulers were in control of these areas during roughly this period.

This temple is under ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) but this is a functioning temple. As you enter the temple compound you will see a small functioning temple to your left and devotees and priests performing puja. The main temple is up ahead.

Hirapur Chausath Yogini Temple – The Functioning Temple on the Left As You Enter

Hirapur Chausath Yogini Temple – Temple Compound

Hirapur Chausath Yogini Temple at the Distance

This temple is circular (hypaethral) with no roof. The reason why Chausath Yogini temples are without a roof is mostly attributed to the nature of Yoginis who set have the power of flight thus keeping the roof open to please them.

Chausath Yogini Temple – Hirapur (Back View)

Pedestal Next To Chausath Yogini Temple – Hirapur

Chausath Yogini Temple – Hirapur – Main Entrance

Katyayani

On the outer circle, you will find nine Katyayanis who are considered as avatars of Durga who slew Mahisasura.

Katyayani 3 & 4 on Outer Wall of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Katyayani 5 & 6 on Outer Wall of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Katyayani 7 & 8 on Outer Wall of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Katyayani 9 on Outer Wall of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

The temple has a small entrance which you have to literarily bend down to enter. As you are about to enter you will find two Dvarapalas on each side. These are considered warrior gatekeepers.

Dvarapalas at the Entrance of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Once you get past the main doorway you will find two sculpture of men who look like warriors.

The Warrior Sculpture on the Left and Right Wall As You Enter Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

After this, you enter the main temple which is circular and you will find sixty Yoginis one after the other clockwise from your left.

Interior of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Interior of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur – Chandi Mandap

Interior of Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur – Images of Yoginis Surrounding the Inner Wall

At the center of the temple is the Chandi Mandap (Yogini Mandap) with is a pillared rectangular structure with an open roof. Each of the four pillars has one Yogini and one Bhairva sculpture. It is to be noted here that one Yogini is missing and that portion is blank.

Chandi Mandap at Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Devotee Bowing Her Head at Chandi Mandap at Chausath Yogini Temple in Hirapur

Concept of 64 Yoginis

Brahmani, Maheshwari, Kaumari, Vaishnavi, Aindri, Chamunda, Mohalaxmi & Varahi are considered Asta Matrakas which means eight mothers. From each of these eight Matrakas, we get eight individual Yoginis which makes them sixty-four in total.

Yogini cult is very must associated with Tantric practices. According to the Puranas, the yoginis manifest the combined power of the goddess Durga and often represent various forms of power. This is the very reason why you will see the Yoginis having different facial forms ranging from boar, horse, elephant, etc. The Yoginis can also be seen manifesting the powers of warriors having swords, bow & arrow, daggers, etc.

64 Yoginis at Hirapur Temple

Starting clockwise from the left as you enter you will find the following Yoginis.

Yogini 1 – Maya / Bahurupa / Chandika

This Yogini is known by three names Maya, Bahurupa, Chandika. This is the first Yogini that you will see as you enter the main temple. We will be moving clockwise thus the very first one to your left.

You will be able to see that the Yogini is standing over a corpse, the face is not clear but you will be able to make out the four hands that once were part of the original deity.

Yogini 2 – Tara

Similar to the first one this Yogini can be seen mounted on top of a dead body. The most notable feature is the braid of hair which can be seen on the left side of the face.

Yogini 3 – Narmada

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of an elephant. Similar to Tara this Yogini also has her hair but on the opposite side of the face. If you zoom the image then you will be able to see the skull necklace around her neck. These are very tiny head almost as if it’s made of babies’ skull. She can be seen having a skull head with her left hand as if drinking from it. If you look closely then you will be able to see that this Yogini is mounted on her left leg with her right feet (portion still visible) on top of her left feet as if balancing on one leg.

Yogini 4 – Yamuna

This yogini is seen balancing herself on top of a tortoise with one leg over its head and the other over its tail end. This Yogini has four hands and the most notable unique feature is her hair braids which are rising in curls around her head.

Yogini 5 – Shanti / Kanti / Laxmi / Manada

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a lotus flower with a snake (Cobra) amulet on the left arm. There seems to be another snake-like feature atop her head on the right side which is not so clear.

Yogini 6 – Vriddhi / Kriya / Varuni

The most interesting thing to note about this Yogini is her jewelry especially the ones on her hair. This Yogini is seen as if floating on top of waves.

Yogini 7 – Ajita / Gauri / Ksemankari

This Yogini is seen mounted atop an alligator. She is having four hands.

Yogini 8 – Indrani / Aindri

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of an elephant.

Yogini 9 – Varahi

As the name suggests this Yogini is seen mounted on top of a boar which is also known as “Varaha”. Yogini is having four hands with a skull on one of her left hands.

Yogini 10 – Ranavira / Padmavati

This Yogini can be seen mounted on a serpent with two hands up in the air. She is also seen wearing a necklace around her neck which is made of a skull. She can also be seen holding a large sword (Kharga) with her right hand, however only the handle of the sword is visible while the rest has broken away.

Yogini 11 – Murati / Ostragreeba

This Yogini had four arms and is seen mounted on top of a camel. This is the first of the Yogini which has an animal face and this one is having a face of a monkey.

Yogini 12 – Vaishnavi

This Yogini is seen on top of a Brahminy Kite (Garuda) having a huge hair braid.

Yogini 13 – Virupa / Kalaratri / Panchavarahi

This Yogini also is mounted on top of a Varaha (Boar).

Yogini 14 – Vadyaroopa

As the name suggests Vadya means musical instrument and that is what this Yogini is seen mounted on. She can be seen mounted on top of a Dholak/Mridangam.

Yogini 15 – Charchika

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a male figure, the male figure is seen lying on the ground on his knees holding a lotus plant.

Yogini 16 – Marjari / Betali

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a fish. She has four arms.

Yogini 17 – Chinnamastaka

As the name suggests it means someone with a severed head. This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a head. She is having four arms and in one of her left hands, she is seen holding a bow (not clear as it’s damaged).

Yogini 18 – Vrisabhanana / Bindhya Basini

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a structure similar to that of a house or a cave somewhat similar to the ones you see across this region. Notable is her unique braided hair and her Buffalo face.

Yogini 19 – Jalakamini

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a Toad. Note her unique hairstyle especially towards the right.

Yogini 20 – Ghatavara

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a lion while holding an elephant over her head.

Yogini 21 – Vikarali / Kakarali

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a dog, she is seen mounted on the left leg while the other right leg is lifted over her left thigh and her hand holding onto her right leg.

Yogini 22 – Saraswati

This is Yogini Saraswati and not to be confused with the goddess Saraswati. She is seen mounted on top of a serpent, having four arms with a musical instrument slung over her shoulder towards her front. The most notable feature is the large mustache which she is seen curling with one of her left hands.

Yogini 23 – Birupa

She is seen mounted on top of waves.

Yogini 24 – Kauveri

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a large fully bloomed lotus flower. Note her unique hair braids.

Yogini 25 – Bhalluka

This is a Boar-faced Yogini who is seen holding a Damru (musical instrument) with her right hand. She is seen mounted on top of the Lotus Creeper plant.

Yogini 26 – Narasimhi / Simhamukhi

As the name suggests this Yogini has a face of a Lion and is seen as if mounted on top of a forest with plants and flowers. Note her unique hair braids which surround her face in a circular pattern.

Yogini 27 – Biraja

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of Lotus bud, note her hairstyle especially towards the right side.

Yogini 28 – Vikatanana

This Yogini is having a very unique facial structure.

Yogini 29 – Mahalaxmi

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a huge Lotus flower. On her left hand, she is seen carrying a shield and on her right hand, she is seen carrying a thunderbolt.

Yogini 30 – Kaumari

This Yogini is very difficult to spot as this one is right beside Mahamaya which is the central deity at this temple. Devotees usually cover the idol of Mahamaya with colorful cloths and often the Yogini ones on the left and the right also get covered up. I somehow managed to click a side view.

This Yogini can be seen mounted on top of a peacock. Note her hairstyle which braids on the right.

Yogini 31 Mahamaya

D evotees Worshiping Yogini 31 Mahamaya — Devotees Worshiping Yogini 31 Mahamaya

This is the central deity of this temple and is positioned right at the middle right opposite the main entrance. The idol is covered so much with colorful clothes that only her eyes are visible.

You can only read about its features in books and other referential documents. This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a Lotus and having ten hands.

Yogini 32 – Usa / Rati

Similar to the 30^th Yogini this one is also difficult to spot as it’s mostly covered up. This Yogini is seen mounted on top of an archer.

Yogini 33 – Karkari

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a crab.

Yogini 34 – Sarpasha / Chittala

As the name suggests this Yogini has a face that of a snake and is having four arms.

Yogini 35 – Yosha

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a platform similar to a table or a bed.

Yogini 36 – Aghora / Vaivasvati

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a Ram Goat. Her unique feature is her big bulging eyes.

Yogini 37 – Bhadrakali / Rudrakali

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a crow handing a sword (portion) in her left hand.

Yogini 38 – Matangi / Shitala / Vainayaki / Ganeshani / Gajanana

This Yogini has a face of an elephant and is also seen mounted on top of an elephant. This is almost the feminine version of Ganesha.

Yogini 39 – Bindhyabalini

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a rat. Though missing she is seen launching an arrow with her right hand holding the bow and left hand pulling the bow with an arrow.

Yogini 40 – Abhaya / Veera / Kumari

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a scorpion. She has four arms.

Yogini 41 – Maheswari

This Yogini is mounted on top of a bull. She has four arms.

Yogini 42 – Kamakshi / Ambika

This Yogini is seen balancing herself on top of two wheels which are on top of a mongoose. She has four arms. On one of her left arms she has a cup-like structure most probably the head of a skull and on the Damru (musical instrument).

Yogini 43 – Kamayani

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a Cock.

Yogini 44 – Ghatabari

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a Lion.

Yogini 45 – Stutee

This Yogini is having four arms and is seen balancing on some sort of pan or plate. On the left, you can also see a portion of a vase.

Yogini 46 – Kali

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a man which can be assumed as Shiva having a third eye. The Yogini is also holding a trident with her right hand.

Yogini 47 – Uma

This Yogini is seen mounted on multiple small lotus flowers. With a cobra snake on her left hand.

Yogini 48 – Narayani

This Yogini is seen holding a wine jar with her left hand and a sword with the right hand. There is a small pot or jar-like structure just below the wine jar.

Yogini 49 – Samudra

This yogini is seen mounted on top of a conch shell. Note her hair braids to the left of her head.

Yogini 50 – Brahmani

This Yogini is very interesting as she is the only one with three faces, she also has four arms.

Yogini 51 – Jwalamukhi

This Yogini has her ears very high up almost on the front side of her forehead.

Yogini 52 – Agneyi

As the name suggests it’s everything to do with fire. You can see flames of fire carved behind the Yogini. She is also seen holding a sword over her head parallel to the ground.

Yogini 53 – Aditi

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a parrot.

Yogini 54 – Chandrakanti

This Yogini is seen standing on top of a platform almost like that of a bed with four legs.

Yogini 55 – Vayubega

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of a yak.

Yogini 56 – Chamunda

This is another unique Yogini with unlike other Yoginis do not have a well-built body instead it’s almost like a skeleton (skin and bones). She is having four arms out of which each left and right hand hold a lion on top of her head while the rest of the two arms hold a dagger with her right hand and a severed head with her left hand.

Yogini 57 – Murati

This Yogini is seen standing on top of a deer.

Yogini 58 – Ganga

This Yogini is seen mounted on top of Makara which is a mythological sea creature. She has four arms.

Yogini 59 – Dhumavati / Tarini

This Yogini is seen mounted on a duck.

Yogini 60 – Gandhari

This Yogini is seen mounted on a horse.

This completes all the Yoginis that are places in circular pattern around the temple. The next four Yoginis are mounted on the pillars of Chandi Mandap.

Yogini 61 – Sarva Mangala (Missing)

This one is missing and this portion

Yogini 62 – Ajita

This Yogini is seen mounted on a Deer. She has four arms.

Yogini 63 – Surya Putri

This Yogini is seen mounted on a horse. She has four arms. One of the left arm holding a bow and one of the right had taken out a bow from its quiver.

Yogini 64 – Vayu Veena

This is the last of the Yogini and is seen mounted on a blackbuck. The background has patterns as if mimicking the movement of air.

Bhairavs on Chandi Mandap

Along with the three Yoginis (one missing) on the pillars of Chandi Mandap, you will find four panels of Bhairavs also. One of them is Ekpada Bhairav who is seen standing on one leg while the rest three are ten armed Bhairavs in a seated position.

Bhairavs on Chandi Mandap Pillar (Chausath Yogini Temple – Hirapur)

Mahamaya Puskarini

There is a water body right next to the temple which has a temple-like structure at the center. This tank is part of the temple and is known as Mahamaya Puskarini which is named after the main deity of the temple (Mahamaya).

Mahamaya Puskarini – Temple like Structure at the Centre (Chausath Yogini Temple – Hirapur)

Quick Facts

This temple was discovered as recently as 1953 by Kedarnath Mahapatra
The temple measures 27.4 meters in circumference and has a height of just 2.4 meters
The temple is made from sandstone
The stone panels of Yoginis are made of black and grey chlorite stone
Out of the 64 Yoginis, 1 is missing
60 Yoginis are places around the inner wall circularly while 4 (1 missing) on the Chandi Mandap
9 Katyayani on the outer wall made of sandstone
2 Dvarapalas at the main entrance made of sandstone
4 on Bhairavs on Chandi Mandap pillars

Sisupalgarh – The Forgotten City

BySubhadip Mukherjee October 14, 2019

We have to visit Sisupalgarh I told myself as I think I make my 50^th trip to the city of Bhubaneswar. Being quite close to Kolkata and which also happens to be one of my workplaces it’s not uncommon for me to keep visiting this city both for work as well as for pleasure. For some reason or the other, I have always managed to miss a chance to visit Sisupalgarh. This time however I was determined to make it happen.

The word “Garh” is synonymous with forts across India, be it Nahargarh, Kumbhalgarh, Jaigarh especially in Western India and similarly out here also Garh refers to a forth which once stood here in ancient India.

Location of Sisupalgarh

Surprisingly it is just a few kilometers from the capital city of Bhubaneswar and can be easily accessed by booking an Auto or by hiring a cab with your mobile app. If it were a weekend then it would just take less than half an hour to reach this place.

To be precise it is just 10 kilometers from the center of the town thus it is a short drive away. The only challenge perhaps is locating the two sections once you reach Sisupalgarh as asking the locals for directions is a really bad idea and I am sure they will tell you a completely different route confidently.

Reaching Sisupalgarh

Getting a cab was a breeze and within minutes of booking the cab had arrived to pick us up and within 20 minutes we had reached Sisupalgarh according to our GPS on our mobile. We asked some locals and each one of them pointed in a different direction. The board from ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) clearly indicated that we were in the vicinity. We left the app cab and decided to explore the vicinity on foot and sometimes using GPS maps on our mobile.

First Sign of Sisupalgarh

By following our instincts, we could locate the first site, which was the Monumental Gateway. This section has clear Laterite Blocks measuring up to 1.8 meters. While most of these sections either are below the ground or have weathered away, some sections do measure up to 18 of such blocks. Just by looking at these sections one can assume how big and magnificent the original structure must have been.

Sisupalgarh - Monumental Gateway — Sisupalgarh – Monumental Gateway

Sisupalgarh - Monumental Gateway – Laterite Stone Slabs — Sisupalgarh – Monumental Gateway – Laterite Stone Slabs

Sisupalgarh - Monumental Gateway – Reverse View — Sisupalgarh – Monumental Gateway – Reverse View

Sisupalgarh - Monumental Gateway – Large Laterite Slabs — Sisupalgarh – Monumental Gateway – Large Laterite Slabs

Sisupalgarh - Monumental Gateway – Encroachments — Sisupalgarh – Monumental Gateway – Encroachments

Search for the Sisupalgarh Pillars

The most famous visual reference that one can find online on Sisupalgarh is the lone standing stone pillars thus the next adventure was to find these pillars and here things turned really confusing. Initially we tried to ask around the houses if there were any ancient stone pillars to which none agreed thus I had to resort to showing reference images on the mobile screen. Some did recognize these but were unable to explain the correct direction due to the obvious language barrier.

Sisupalgarh – Extended Area under the Threat of Encroachments

Finally, there was one elderly man who seems to know what we were looking for but his expressions were priceless. His reaction after seeing the photo on the phone was that of sadness and regret, for a moment we thought that these do not exist anymore then later did we understand that he was actually trying to convey the fact that this place is very easy to locate.

Somehow, with hand gestures, he told us a rough idea as to where these were and finally we set off to locate the stone pillars. The stone pillars are locally known as “Shola Khombo” which literary translates into sixteen pillars, even though we could not trace all the sixteen pillars there must have been in the past which might have collapsed over the years.

These were located in the middle of a field and we could see them from a distance but as we tried to approach them, we realized that these ancient stone pillars were located in the middle of a field, which in turn was filled with knee-deep stagnant water with a thick layer sludge at the bottom.

We were first very confident that we would be easily able to walk to the middle and it is then I remembered what a local had warned us earlier that there were snakes all around this area due to the stagnant water. Without giving a second thought, we just turned back towards dry land.

We might have to come back during the dry summer season when the water might dry out for easy access.

Sisupalgarh – Stone Pillars Located In The Middle Of the Field

History of Sisupalgarh

There has been a constant debate amongst historians as to the real origins of Sisupalgarh. What historians have still not been able to pinpoint is the exact date around which this place would have flourished. However there are rough estimates which place Sisupalgarh as one of the earliest settlements in this part of the continent.

Initial excavation work was done in the year 1948 followed by some more work in the 1960s after which not much has been done till early 2000.

The date reference of Sisupalgarh is taken from the inscriptions at “Hathigumpha” (elephant cave) located at Udayagiri & Khandagiri caves. One of the inscriptions refers to this place as “Kalinga Nagari”. As per radiocarbon dating of the artifacts found at this site during excavation work gives a rough date around 1000 BC to 1 BC. But significant increase in population was seen during 3 – 4 B.C.

All these if you sum together make this place very significant in the history of settlements in this country as well and the continent as a whole.

I had traveled to Sisupalgarh along with another blogger – Trekkers of the East.

Location of Sisupalgarh on Map

Other Blogs on Odisha

Diamond Triangle of Odisha -Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, Udayagiri
Barabati Fort – Lost and Forgotten
Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar
Netaji Birthplace Museum – Cuttack
Odisha State Maritime Museum Cuttack
Daytrip to Chilka Lake from Puri
Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village

Reference

The Telegraph
The Telegraph
BBC

Pahala Odisha Rasagola, Rosogolla and Rasgulla

BySubhadip Mukherjee October 21, 2019

I have been trying to cut my sugar intake for the last three months and to an extent, I have been successful. I was getting flabbier by the day and had to put a big full stop to this binge sweet consumption. Not going into the good and bad side of excessive sweet consumption in the blog instead let me take you to a land where its sweetness overloaded.

There has been an ongoing war between Odisha and Bengal as to whom Rosogalla truly belongs to. While Bengalis have, a special soft corner when it comes to Rosogollla the good citizens of Odisha initially claimed Rosogolla as theirs and then when Rosogolla was given GI tag in favor of Bengal they changed the name to Odisha Rasagola and got their own GI tag.

I have asked this question to several friends of mine who keep debating about the origin of the white fluffy sugary-sweet dish. Keeping the debate aside I wanted to try out myself the difference or the similarity between the two versions of Rasgulla (now this is the North Indian name for the same stuff).

During my childhood almost mandatory trips to Puri during school vacations, a part of the experience was incomplete without having Rosogolla from the vendors selling at the beachfront. After a swim in the sea, a sweet experience was always welcome. During one such session, I vividly remember choking while trying to swallow a whole Rosogolla as I wanted to go for a swim for one last time. My mother had to give a hard pat on my back to stop me from choking.

A Trip to Pahala

During a trip to Bhubaneswar earlier this year, I was told by the host that I am in for a special sweet treat at a place called Pahala located somewhere between the highway that connects Bhubaneswar to Cuttack. Not exactly knowing what to expect I really did not think about it much until the bus actually arrived at Pahala.

What we in Bengal can easily relate to when we say Shaktigah and Lengcha or for that matter Bardhaman and Sitabhog it is exactly the same when it comes to Pahala and Odisha Rasagola.

There are several shacks all lined up next to each other on both sides of the road and all of these shops are selling the same products. The prices are also the same so just pick your favorite or just walk into a random shop. Almost all of them will serve you piping hot Odisha Rasagola.

Several Shacks like These Line up on Both Sides of the Road Selling Traditional Indian Sweets

All the Shops at Pahala Sell the Same Varieties of Sweets

Customers Can Be Seen All Throughout the Day Coming Here For Buying Sweets

Odisha Rasagola vs Rosogolla

Let me be absolutely neutral and tell you that these two products may look the same but they taste absolute different. The texture differs hugely and so is the taste, if you don’t believe me then I am ready for a challenge. What you get in Pahala is a type of sponge Rosogolla with a milder sweetness and equally thin sugar syrup. What we in Bengal refer to as the Rosogolla are slightly hard textured with a coarse feeling as you bite into them. They will not squish if you try to bite into them and will retain its original shape. Last but not the least the consistency of the sugar syrup is different with a thicker variety and obvious more sweetness.

Odisha Rasagola at Pahala – Colour Becomes A Little Whiter When It Cools Down

Much More than Odisha Rasagola

Honestly speaking my favorite of the sweets from Odisha has always been the Chhena Poda, which I think, is what defines sweets of Odisha for me. Right from childhood, I remember my father bringing these in kilos from every trip to Bhubaneswar. Later when I started traveling for work to this region the very first thing that I would do whenever I landed in Bhubaneswar was to have Chhena Poda. Chhena Poda is milk cheese (cheena) which baked overnight and then soaked in sugar syrup. The baking makes one side of the chhena cake burn and that is what makes it so tasty. You need to buy these according to weight as its shape of a cake and will be cut then weighed and then served. There is also another variety of Chhena Poda which is made by steaming the chenna instead of baking them and then its doused in the sugar syrup.

Baked Chhena Poda – It’s Cut and Served as per Weight

Apart from Chhena Poda, Odisha Rasagola you will get another variety of sweet which is known as Chhenar Goja. These are a harder and dry variety of milk cheese or chhena. Unlike Odisha Rasagola these don’t float on sugar syrup instead have a dried sugary texture.

Made Right in front Of You

The best part of a trip to Pahala has always been to see the kitchen where these sweets are prepared. Each shop has its own kitchen at the back and you are free to visit them. Mind the heat from the wood-fired ovens and take extra precautions of the huge cauldrons filled to the brim with piping hot sugar syrups. It is also not uncommon for shops to share the same kitchen space, as what I have understood is that no matter which shop you visit they are all known to each other and that is the very reason why the price is same across all shops in this locality.

Fresh Chhena Being Delivered To the Shops – These Cloth Bags Hold the Fresh Chhena

Fresh Chhena When Separated From Its Water Content

Chenna Hand Rolled Into Sphere Shaped Dough

Finally, the Chenna Looks Similar To Odisha Rasagolas

Huge Wood Fired Cauldrons with Boiling Sugar Syrups

Water Being Added To Dilute the Boiling Sugar Solution

Boiled Odisha Rasagolas Being Transferred from the Flame after It Has Been Sufficiently Cooked

The Coked Odisha Rasagolas Are Then Kept In a Separate Pan and Cooler Sugar Syrup Added

A Typical Shop in Pahala Displaying Odisha Rasagolas & Chhenar Goja

Since there are several shops here selling the same items thus this locality has become synonymous to traditional Indian sweets and customers both from Bhubaneswar as well as from Cuttack come here so a fixing their sweet cravings. So next time you, travel to Bhubaneswar remember to stop by this place and increase your blood sugar for a day.

A Sweet Seller in Pahala Selling Chhena Poda

Customers Buying Odisha Rasagolas at a Shop in Pahala

Location of Pahala on Map

Ghost In A Hotel Room

BySubhadip Mukherjee July 6, 2020

I have traveled extensively around India and abroad and quite of few of these trips were solo so I am well used to staying alone. Be it tents, a bench on a roadside Dhaba, a budget hotel, or a star hotel I have experienced it all. I am comfortable in all of them coz after a day-long trip I usually get tired and just a place to put my head should be enough for a quick rest.

To be honest I don’t sleep much since I am busy processing photos or writing notes which help me writing my blogs later. Another important activity that I usually do at night while traveling is to read up on the places that I would be visiting the next day so that I don’t miss any.

On one such trip to Bhubaneswar in September 2019 which was a one-day official tour, I had no hotel reservation for the night. Since my flight was next day morning so I had to find a place to spend the night at the last moment. I opening my mobile and checked a few places available for a night. Did not seek anything fancy so decided to book a room from a hotel aggregator portal. I am purposely withholding the name of the portal and the hotel where I spent the night just to avoid any controversies later.

Hotel at Bhubaneswar – Left Portion under Construction, My Room Was in the Right section

My Room Was Behind the Lower Right Window

I just wanted to crash for the night so checked into the hotel and went straight to the room. The room was average for its price, no towel no toiletries, and beds with an unclean bedsheet. On requesting the bed sheet was changed but the request for the bath towel was never acknowledged. Even after following up several times the bath towel did not arrive.

For dinner, I ordered thee rootis, one chicken curry, and daal. I was told that the order will be served in an hour due to staff shortage which I did not mind. I went for a quick wash and changed and relaxed on my bed to watch some Netflix on my laptop. After an hour a knock on the door and I knew it was my dinner arriving.

I laid the food on the table and sat on the chair to have food. I was served three rotis, daal, and a funny-looking curry. Upon inspecting I realized that it’s no chicken instead it was panner. I called the reception and complained, the call was transferred to the kitchen and the staff told me that they had run out of chicken thus served me paneer instead. I was speechless and did not want to drag this much further thus decided to settle with paneer curry.

After dinner, it was time for some more Netflix and around one past midnight, I decided to call it a day and switched off the lights to sleep. I think I might have slept for around thirty minutes when I realized some anomaly. I felt that there was something heavy near the leg side of the bed. I opened my eyes and switch on the light to find nothing.

I went back to sleep thinking that I might have been dreaming but within minutes I felt the same and this time I was not sleeping but awake. I felt that it was someone and not something that was sitting on the bed. The feeling was surreal and could not be seen with my eyes but could be felt only. Every time I tried to sleep this feeling kept repeating. Just to break the pattern I switch on my mobile and listened to some music and in an hour I was a bit sleepy so must have slept off.

What happened next still gives me creeps to date. I could again feel someone sitting on my bed but this time I could see a faint outline of a human form but not the face. To make matter worse I was in a suspended sleep meaning I was awake and could feel my surrounding but my body was asleep and could not move freely.

Then things turned bizarre and I had an out-of-body experience where I could see myself sleeping and this figure sitting next to my leg. There was no recognizable face but a blurred face with no clear feature. This must-have continued for some time and the more I tried the wake up more clearly I could see and feel myself.

It took me some good time to get outside this pattern and finally I could come to my logical senses and got up from the bed. At once I switched on all the lights and drank some water. Sleeping was not a solution anymore so I decided to leave the room and sit in the corridor. It was around 3 AM and I had to spend a couple of more hours outside for sunrise.

I knew that if I let this incident get into my head then it will spook me up so decided to listen to some heavy rock music. So after a couple of playlists, the sun started slowly breaking the dark skies. Finally, it was morning and I could get back to my room.

I took a shower and realized that the bath towel that I had asked a night before was still not delivered so used my worn t-shirt to dab myself dry. I packed up my luggage and left my room around 6 AM. My flight was at 10 AM so I could have easily left at 8.30 AM but I decided not to spend any more time in this hell hole. I reached Bhubaneswar airport and had my breakfast with Medu Vada as for strange reason all other food joints at the airport were closed and only one counter was active only serving vada, dosa, tea, and coffee.

Bhubaneswar Airport – This Is the Arrival Section

After boarding the aircraft I just slept off and did not even realize when the plane was airborne. I was dead tired and slept the whole journey.

I am not here to judge if it was a ghost that I saw or just that I was hallucinating in my dreams due to my extensive tiring day. It can be anything so I leave this up to you to decide what you would like to call this experience.

Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar

BySubhadip Mukherjee March 4, 2019

In the year 2002 I was still in college and during that time, I had the wonderful opportunity to visit Koraput in Odisha. I was a part of a five-day student exchange program where I had a fantastic opportunity to meet other college students from Bihar, Jharkhand, Odisha and West Bengal. During one of the field trip, we were taken to a tribal village and this one was not the typical tribal villages of Jharkhand but a village that belonged to the ‘Bonda Tribe’. To be specific we were visiting a specific branch of the tribe known as ‘Upper Bonda Tribe’ who lives in complete isolation from the rest of the nation.

We were given specific instructions regarding how we should interact, what we should and should not photograph and last but not the least not to give them any plastic bottles. There was even a government minder to oversee our field trip. I was allowed to click two photographs and till date, people wonder in disbelief if that was indeed a village in India or somewhere in Africa. Their dress, bead jewelry, and their food habits were very different from the rest of the region.

Bonda Tribe - Photographed by me in the Year 2002 — Bonda Tribe – Photographed by me in the Year 2002

The reason we were told not to hand over plastic bottles as the government wanted to avoid any form of plastic pollution in that region and for the Bonda tribe people these plastic bottles were like a priceless commodity.

Coming back to the present time when I was visiting Odisha as a part of Cultural and Heritage Tour of the state organized by Times Passion Trails and Odisha Tourism I was well aware of some of the basic tribes of Odisha. On the very first day and the very first place that we visited as a part of the trip was to the Museum of Tribal Arts and Artifacts.

Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar

This museum as the name suggests is specifically designed to showcase the various tribes of Odisha. The museum is located in a big campus which also houses a training center and a hostel. The museum is not a new one as such since the original museum which was much smaller was started in the year 1953 but was updated and modernized in the year 2001.

Layout of Museum of Tribal Arts and Artifacts

Beautiful Traditional Tribal Wall Paintings

Even the Trees Have Beautiful Paintings on Them

Different Tribes of Odisha

Bagata
Baiga
Banjara
Bathhudi
Bhottada
Bhumia
Bhumij
Bhunjia
Bhuyan
Binjhal
Binjhia
Birhor
Bonda Paroja
Chenchu
Dal
Desua Bhumij
Dharua
Didayi
Gadaba
Gandia
Ghara
Gond
Ho
Holva
Jatapu
Juang
Kandha
Kandha Gauda
Kawar
Kharia
Kharwar
Kisan
Kol
Kolah Loharas
Kolha
Koli Malhar
Kondadora
Kora
Korua
Kotia
Koya
Kulis
Lodha
Madia
Mahali
Mankidi
Mankirdia
Matya
Mirdhas
Munda
Mundari
Omanatya
Oraon
Parenga
Paroja
Pentia
Rajuar
Santal
Saora
Shabar Lodha
Sounti
Tharua

Sections in the TRibal Museum

The museum has five sections and each of these five sections are showcasing different objectives of the tribal life:-

Hall 1 – Personal Adornments
Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs
Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense
Hall 4 – Household Objects and Agricultural Implements
Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items

Tribal Museum – Hall 1 – Personal Adornments

Hall 1 - Personal Adornments – Mannequins Dressed as Juang Couple in Traditional Attire — Hall 1 – Personal Adornments – Mannequins Dressed as Juang Couple in Traditional Attire

Hall 1 - Personal Adornments – Metal Bangles — Hall 1 – Personal Adornments – Metal Bangles

Hall 1 - Personal Adornments – Mannequins Dressed as Dongria Kandha Couple in Traditional Attire — Hall 1 – Personal Adornments – Mannequins Dressed as Dongria Kandha Couple in Traditional Attire

Hall 1 - Personal Adornments – Mannequins Dressed as Bonda Couple in Traditional Attire — Hall 1 – Personal Adornments – Mannequins Dressed as Bonda Couple in Traditional Attire

Tribal Museum – Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Dress Accessories — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Dress Accessories

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Dress Accessories – A Saora Couple — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Dress Accessories – A Saora Couple

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Lanjia Saora Paintings — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Lanjia Saora Paintings

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs –Juang Paintings — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs –Juang Paintings

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Gadaba Comb — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Gadaba Comb

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Kutia Kandha Comb — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Kutia Kandha Comb

Hall 2 - Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Warm Garments — Hall 2 – Personal Belongings, Arts, Paintings & Photographs – Warm Garments

Tribal Museum – Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense

Hall 3 - Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense - Arrows — Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Arrows

Hall 3 - Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Knife — Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Knife

Hall 3 - Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Fishing Nets — Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Fishing Nets

Hall 3 - Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Guns — Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Guns

Hall 3 - Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Nets & Traps — Hall 3 – Hunting & Fishing Implements & Weapons of Offence and Defense – Nets & Traps

TRibal Museum – Hall 4 – Household Objects and Agricultural Implements

Hall 4 - Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Cow Bell — Hall 4 – Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Cow Bell

Hall 4 - Household Objects and Agricultural Implements - Utensils — Hall 4 – Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Utensils

Hall 4 - Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Soil Digger — Hall 4 – Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Soil Digger

Hall 4 - Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Cart — Hall 4 – Household Objects and Agricultural Implements – Cart

TRibal Museum – Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items

Hall 5 - Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Metallic Snake Charmer — Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Metallic Snake Charmer

Hall 5 - Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Male Dance Costume — Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Male Dance Costume

Hall 5 - Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Female Dance Costume — Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Female Dance Costume

Hall 5 - Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Drums — Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Drums

Hall 5 - Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – String Instruments — Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – String Instruments

Hall 5 - Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Changu Drums — Hall 5 – Dance, Musical Instruments and Dhokra Items – Changu Drums

Tribal Museum – Open Air Exhibits

Exhibits Depicting Various Religious Sites of Tribal’s of Odisha

Location of Tribal Museum

Click here to open Google Maps

Other Blogs on Odisha

Netaji Birthplace Museum – Cuttack
Odisha State Maritime Museum Cuttack
Day trip to Chilka Lake from Puri
Day trip to Raghurajpur Village

Barabati Fort – Lost and Forgotten

BySubhadip Mukherjee March 7, 2019

27^th of October 1996 was supposed to be an exiting day when India and Australia meet head to head for a one day international Ciricket tournamet in Cuttack (Odisha). The Cricket match was supposed to take place at Barabati Stadium but the non stop rain had played a spoil sport and the match was called off without a single ball being bowled. During the mid 90’s Cricket in India was it its hights and any Cricket tournament featuring India would bring the entire nation to a stand still. Since T20 had not yet been started thus the number of Cricket matched featuing team India were limited and very popular.

All these years I kept thinking Barabati was some peorson in whose name the stadium had been named. Coming back to present times when I was touring Cuttack as a part of Odisha Cultural and Heritage Tour organised by Times Passion Trails in association with Odisha Tourism I was surprised when the driver informed us that after visiting the Maritime Museum we were going next to Barabati. For a moment I was thinking why on earth are we being taken to a Cricket stadium? I assumed that they must have recently renivated the stadium and wanted us to see it.

As the car approached the statium which can be seen from a distance I could see a Laterite stone wall. It did not look that new yet it was nothing more than a wall and an extreme narrow entrance. At one moment I though our car would get stuck in that narrow entrance.

We had reached “Barabati”, it was right next to the famous Cricket stadium but wehere we had arrived was once the legendary “Barabati Fort”. But where is the fort? I tried looking around but could only see the information plate of Archelogical Survey of India mentioning this as a protected monumnet.

The fort was once there and only few remaining blocks of Laterite stone stand testimony of the grand past. This place was such popular that it even finds a place in Ain-i-Akbari writen by Abu’l Fazl where he mentions this fort as a nine storied asiana (palace).

Extracts from Ain-i-Akbari About Barabati Fort

(Translated version)

The city has a stone fort situated at the bifurcation of the two rivers, the Mahanadi, held in high veneration by the Hindus, and the Katajuri. It is the residence of the governor and contains some fine buildings. For five or six kos round the fort during the rains the country is under water. Raja Mukund Deo built a palace here nine stories in height.

The first story was taken up for the elephants and the stables.
The second was occupied by the artillery, the guards and quarters for attendants.
The third by the patrol and gatekeepers.
The fourth by the workshops.
The fifth by the kitchen.
The sixth contained the public reception rooms.
The seventh private apartments.
The eighth the women’s apartment.
The ninth the sleeping chambers of the governor.

To the south is a very ancient temple (Lingaraj Temple). Overlooking thus, in the city if Purushottama (Puri) on the seashore stands the shrine of Jagannath.

By the word “nine”, we must not mix up with modern nine-storied apartment but rather this fort had nine sections and each of these sections were for different groups as mentioned above.

History of Barabati Fort

Rule of Ganga dynasty over Utkal started by the defeat of the Somavamshi Dynasty under Karnakeshari. He was defeated by Chodagangadeb around 1118 – 1134 A.D.

Anangabhimadev III (121 1-1238 A.D.) who was another ruler of Ganga Dynasty decided to build a new city at Barabati (Baranasi Katak).

Ganga Dynasty lasted until 1434 followed by Suryavamsi Gajapatis until 1540.

Bhoi Dynasty ruled this place after this until 1560.

King Mukundadeva (1560 – 68) of Chalukya Dynasty mainly constructed the nine section modern fort.

In the year 1568 Afghan army under Sulaiman Karrani took control over this region due to long-term instability within the kingdom with a new king every now and then.

In 1592 Mughal rule under General Raja Man Singh who was the trusted general of Akbar started the new era of Mughal rule in this region.

1751 saw the dominance of Maratha rule under Raghoji Bhonsle.

The British forces under East India Company took over the fort from Marathas on 14 September 1803.

As per records, the British wanted no sign of the regional rulers thus started breaking down the once glorious fort. It was stripped of its stone and wood. The stones were broken down to create other building and for the construction of roads. Slowly the fort was nowhere to be seen and only the moat around the fort remained with few pieces of unrecognizable structure scattered around the fort complex.

What Remains of Barabati fort Now?

Nothing that can anyway say that here once stood a magnificent citadel. The fort covered around 102 acres of land. Only a gate made of laterite stone and a huge mound at the centre mode of khondalite stone, laterite stone and coarse sandstone. If you take the stairs, you will reach the top of the mound, which has a square stone base. Up ahead on the eastern corner you will see stone pillar like structures. There are thirty-two pillars visible.

During the initial excavation process various objects such as seated Goddess Gandharva, lamp fragment, balls and pot fragments of stone; sling balls, fragments of animal figurines of terracotta and axe and a stylus made of iron. The pottery finds comprised storage jars, spouted vessels, lamp, pot stands, knobbed lids, miniature pots, dishes and bowls, the final portion of a hookah and pieces of Chinese porcelain etc.

The only visible structure is the Sahi Quila Mosque (Fateh Khan Mosque) built around second half of 16^th century after the fort was taken over by the Muslim rulers of this region. This mosque is also referred as the Paltan Mosque as it might have been mostly used by the soldiers stationed at the fort. As per some historians Fateh Khan was a military general responsible for protecting the fort.

There also used to a temple inside the fort complex and excavations have been able to find the foundation on the North-Eastern side of the fort complex.

(L) Standing Couple (R) Female Head - Found During Excavation Work at the Site - Photo Courtesy Odisha Review (Govt. of Odisha) — (L) Standing Couple (R) Female Head – Found During Excavation Work at the Site – Photo Courtesy Odisha Review (Govt. of Odisha)

Skeletal Remains of an Elephant - Found During Excavation Work at the Site - Photo Courtesy Odisha Review (Govt. of Odisha) — Skeletal Remains of an Elephant – Found During Excavation Work at the Site – Photo Courtesy Odisha Review (Govt. of Odisha)

Lamp of Chlorite Schist - Found During Excavation Work at the Site - Photo Courtesy Odisha Review (Govt. of Odisha) — Lamp of Chlorite Schist – Found During Excavation Work at the Site – Photo Courtesy Odisha Review (Govt. of Odisha)

Entrance to Barabati Fort (The Front Portion of the Gate Is a New Structure Whereas the Original Structure Is At the Back)

Garden around the Fort Complex – This Is Where the Fort Once Stood

The Mound Rising To the Left and the Garden Area to the Right

The Mound Is the Only Prominent Structure Left

These Stairs Lead You to the Top of the Mound

From Top of the Mound Some Remaining Foundation Structures Still Visible

The Thirty-Two Stone Pillars That Are Visible From the Top of the Mound (Paltan Mosque Can Be Seen In the Background)

Sahi Quila Mosque (Fateh Khan Mosque) – Photo Courtesy Mohamed Nasr

The Thirty-Two Stone Pillars That Are Visible From the Top of the Mound

Square Stone Foundation atop the Mound (Khondalite Stone)

Flat Surface above the Square Stone Structure

Other Blogs on Odisha

Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar
Netaji Birthplace Museum – Cuttack
Odisha State Maritime Museum Cuttack
Daytrip to Chilka Lake from Puri
Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village

Location of Barabati Fort

Click here to open Google Maps

References on Barabati Fort

Ain-i-akbari Of Abul Fazl I Allami Vol. 2
States of Our Union: Orissa by Shreeram Chandra Dash
Aspects of Socio Cultural Life in Orissa under the Mughal by Mohamed Nasr
Orissa Review Sep – Oct 2005

Diamond Triangle of Odisha -Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri, Udayagiri

BySubhadip Mukherjee April 18, 2019

Foreign tourist coming to India are mostly bound to do a common tourist circuit called the Golden Triangle. This Golden Triangle consists of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur. Apart from this, there is another very important site, which is referred to as the Diamond Triangle and is a very important part of India’s Buddhist heritage.

Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri and Udayagiri are referred to as the Diamond Triangle of Odisha and is often considered as some of the most important Buddhist sites of the state. The name Diamond Triangle is not due to the locations of these sites on map instead the very root or sect of Buddhism from where these have evolved.

Vajrayana which when you translate from Sanskrit would mean Thunderbolt Vehicle (Vajra = Thunderbolt and Yana = Vehicle). In Sanskrit Diamond is also known as Vajramaṇi thus Vajrayana was referred to as the Diamond Vehicle sect of Buddhism.

Vajrayana

Vajrayana evolved from within Mahayana around 7^th – 8^th century. This particular sect is said to have evolved from Tibet when Padmasambhava was invited by King Trisong Detsen of Tibet in order to balance the influence of nobles of his kingdom who have said to follow the indigenous Bon religion of Tibet. Padmasambhava managed to converge the traditions and practices of Bon along with Buddhist Dharma thus giving rise to the Vajrayana sect. Padmasambhava constructed the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet at Samye.

Vajrayana Buddhism Emphasizes

Prajna & Karuna, which is the unity of wisdom and compassion

Sadhana, which forms the concept of meditation and exercise

Tharpa or the awakening

Various forms of Buddha in the form of Amitabha Buddha and Avalokitesvara the Bodhisattva

Key Rituals of Vajrayana

Mantra (prayer) is the act of chanting of prayers along with meditation. These Mantras is said to carry the cosmic energy of Bodhisattva. Mantras also help the person by protecting them from negative energy by using their own inner positive energy.

Mandala (circle) is the symbolic themes of meditation, which represents the cosmic diagram. It represents the entire universe.

Mudra or the gesture is the symbolic positioning of the hand and body.

Location of the Diamond Triangle

Road Sign Showing the Location of the Sites

History of Buddhism in This Region

This part of Eastern India was ruled by the Bhauma Kara Dynasty, which lasted between 8^th to 10^th centuries. As per records the first three kings of this dynasty where Buddhist and as per some records the next two kings in this dynasty were followers of this religion.

Keshmankara, Shivakara I, and Shubhakara I were the first three kings in this dynasty known to be Buddhists. Even the next two rulers Shivakara II and Shubhakara III were known to be affiliated to this religion.

During this phase of rules in this region, the kings were like patrons of Buddhism and encouraged monks to come and settle in this region. Many scholars, monks started to migrate to this region of ancient India and settle down in the various monasteries here. With the protection of the king, these monasteries thrived and expanded heavily.

These facts have be confirmed by the famous Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang who as per record had travelled in this region once in the 7^th century and then sometime between 8^th and 9^th century.

Lalitgiri

I would recommend you to spend maximum time at this location not only for the ruins but also for the museum, which has been recently opened and has all the excavated objects found at this site preserved and labelled for easy reference.

Lalitgiri initially was confused for Pushpagiri and in the 1980’s further excavation at this place revealed that Pushpagiri was separate site located elsewhere. The excavations over the years also revealed many statues of Buddha and inscriptions which was referred to have been from the Mahayana and Hinayana form of Buddhism thus it can be easily said that this site of Lalitgiri existed even before the Bhauma Kara Dynasty patronising the Vajrayana form of Buddhism.

As you enter the excavated site of Lalitgiri, you will find the museum to your left but I would also recommend that you visit this museum after going around the site so as to get an overall feel and then it will be also easy to relate the site with the objects displayed in the museum.

At Lalitgiri, you can find the ruins of four monasteries, a stupa and a mahastupa on top of a hill.

Monastery 1 – Lalitgiri

As you move ahead, you will find Monastery 1, which is the largest of all the monasteries at Lalitgiri. You will be able to see a mix of stone structures like pillars as well as terracotta bricks. You can clearly see various sections, which could have been rooms inside the monastery. If you climb to the top, you will be able to see the massive size of the monastery.

Monastery 1 – Lalitgiri – Terracotta Bricks

Monastery 2 – Lalitgiri

To locate this monastery you have to take the small road right after the museum and at the end of the hillock. Out here, you will find some structures of stone and bricks, which is in real bad shape. Out of all the structures in this complex, this is in most of the dilapidated state. Only one stone carving can be seen out here, which gives some historical reference to being a monastery in the first place. This was one of the last structures built out here after which there was a steady decline of Buddhism in this region.

Monastery 2 – Lalitgiri – Stone Carvings

Monastery 3 – Lalitgiri

You can see the large floor space and the various room made with terracotta bricks can be visible here.

Monastery 3 – Lalitgiri - Entrance — Monastery 3 – Lalitgiri – Entrance

Monastery 3 – Lalitgiri – Inner Sections

Monastery 3 – Lalitgiri – Inner Rooms and Chambers

Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri

This particular monastery was the most exiting one for me considering the headless Buddha statue located inside. It would be wise to say that the statue was missing the upper part of the body. In front of the room, housing the statue there was an open space with multiple stone and terracotta brick chambers in the side.

Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri - Entrance — Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri – Entrance

Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri - Interiors — Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri – Interiors

Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri – Inner Chambers

Monastery 4 – Lalitgiri – Statue of Buddha inside the Main Shrine

Chaityagriha Stupa Lalitgiri

Right opposite to Monastery 4, you will find a large circular stone foundation, which was the Chaityagriha Stupa. The entire top portion of the stupa is missing and you can see other stone structures and pillar foundation all around. The most striking thing about this structure are the several mini stupas, which are lined up next to each other. In order to get the best view of this place it is recommended that you look from the road, which is in elevated position.

Chaityagriha Stupa Lalitgiri – Votive Stupas

Mahastupa Lalitgiri

Moving ahead on the right above a small hillock you will be able to find the Mahastupa. Take the flight of stairs and reach to the top to access this place. This stupa became very important from the point of excavation as some relics were discovered inside. The archaeologists discovered two stone caskets and one of them has three more caskets in one of them there was one bone relic in a golden casket. This can be seen at the museum of Lalitgiri. It is assumed that this is an actual Buddha relic in the form of a bone fragment.

Lalitgiri Museum

Gallery 1 – This section consists of eleven Buddha images and a Stupa. These are from an earlier period and the detailed features are not so prominent.

Gallery 2 – This section consists of six Buddha images from a later transitional period. These have a better details thus can be assumed was done at a later period.

Gallery 3 – This sections consists a large Buddha head, which is surrounded by six seated Bodhisattvas. Important amongst these are Dhyani Buddha, Manjushri and Jambhala, which are god of wealth.

Gallery 4 – This contains the Relic Casket. Three sets of these containers made of Khandolite were found inside the Mahastupa, three caskets containers were designed in the form of a Votive Stupa. Out of these three caskets, two had a set of gold casket kept within a silver casket. Each of these two gold caskets had a relic in the form of a charred bone wrapped in gold foil and the other without any foil.

Gallery 5 – This gallery consists of four Buddha female deities and six Bodhisattvas from the Vajrayana line of Buddhism.

Gallery 6 – This is the open courtyard at the centre of the museum and have been designed to resemble a Buddha Mandala.

Lalitgiri Museum – Massive Buddha Statue in the Courtyard

Lalitgiri Entry Ticket Cost

Indian Visitor = Rs. 25
Children (Below 15) = Free
BIMSTEC Visitor = Rs. 25
Foreign Citizens = Rs. 300
Video Charges (only for excavation site and not museum) = Rs.25

Ratnagiri

The next site in the Diamond Triangle would be that of Ratnagiri which is around 13 to 16 kilometres (depending on the route) from Lalitgiri. There is a good hotel and a restaurant located right next to the excavation site thus would recommend you to have your lunch out here during your Diamond Triangle Tour. This archaeological site is spread on top of a small hillock on almost flat surface. After taking staircase which will take you to the top of the hill you will be able to see the first glimpses of the archaeological site.

Ratnagiri – Stairs Will Take You to the Top of the Hill

Votive Stupas – Ratnagiri

Once you reach the top of the hill on the left, you will be able to see a collection of Votive Stupas (8^th to 11^th Century). These are generally constructed as a sign of commemoration when visiting a famous stupa. These are like miniature stupas about one or two feet in height. They look similar to a stupa with similar features. Out here, you will find hundreds of them but these were actually found around the Mahastupa.

Shrine Complex

Waking up ahead from the set of Votive Stupas towards the main section you will come across a stone foundation like structures on your left. This is the Shrine Complex (9^th to 11^th Century) and only visible reference other than the stone foundation are few stone carvings.

Shrine Complex – Ratnagiri – Remaining Stone Sculpture

Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri

This is the most majestic site out here built around 8^th to 11^th Century, especially the entry gate with its majestic doorjamb. Once you cross that, you will find yourself in the massive courtyard surrounded by massive stone heads of Buddha. There are several small rooms around this vast monastery and from the top, you can see the huge building complex. On the other end, there is a small room (shrine) with status of Buddha.

Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri – Doorjamb Details

Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri – Stone Carvings

Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri – Massive Buddha Head

Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri – Remains of Various Stone Statues

Remains of Different Rooms at Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri

Monastery 1 – Ratnagiri – View from the Top

Monastery 2 – Ratnagiri

Right next to Monastery 1 is the smaller monastery, out here you can see the open courtyard with the room with a Buddha statue. All around you will be able to see various rooms

Up ahead in front of Monastery 2 you will find some Votive Stupas surrounding a statue of Buddha. If you look to your left you will find a small square room, make sure you look inside, as you will get to see three stunning statues.

Mahastupa – Ratnagiri

This was the Mahastupa of Ratnagiri and it massive in size and is surrounded by more Votive Stupas. Look around and on one side, you will find a small stupa with a five discs on top. This structure is dated to be before 10^th century, the surrounding walls are dated around 13^th century.

Structures around the Mahastupa at Ratnagiri

Mahakala Temple – Ratnagiri

This temple was originally built over an existing stupa and in order to preserve the original site the temple was carefully block-by-block and placed on the side of the hill in the year 1996. If you look closely the stone bricks will have small numbers written on them which were used as reference numbers while shifting the temple.

Mahakala Temple at its New Site at Ratnagiri

Mahakala Temple - RatnagiriMahakala Temple - Ratnagiri — Mahakala Temple – Ratnagiri

Single Winged Monastery – Ratnagiri

To see this monastery you have to go back to the place where the collection of Votive Stupas are present. If you walk ahead, you will reach this spot.

Ratnagiri Museum

Take time out to visit this museum as most of the artefacts found at Ratnagiri site have been shifted to this museum. Apart from statues, you will be able to see coins, jewellery and old manuscripts.

Gallery 1 – Twenty five stone images of Buddha, Avalokitesvara, Khasarpana, Manjusri, Tara etc. are present here all belonging to 9^th to 11^th century AD.

Gallery 1 (Photo Courtesy Government Archaeological Museum – Ratnagiri)

Gallery 2 – There are twenty-four antiquities in this gallery some of which are that of Buddha, Bodhisattvas, Jambhala, Tara in various postures, Vasudhara, Chunda etc.

Gallery 2 (Photo Courtesy Government Archaeological Museum – Ratnagiri)

Gallery 3 – Eighty one antiquities are displayed out here; important ones are stupas depicting Buddha, Bodhisattvas, Aparajita, Ushnishavijaya etc.

Gallery 3 (Photo Courtesy Government Archaeological Museum – Ratnagiri)

Gallery 4 – This gallery has eighty displays. This gallery features broken pottery, terracotta plaque depicting Buddha, monastic seal, copper plates etc. This section also has bronze images of Buddha, Krishna-Yamari, Tara and Manjusri.

Gallery 4 (Photo Courtesy Government Archaeological Museum – Ratnagiri)

Reserve Gallery – This gallery features artefacts excavated from Ratnagiri and consists of stone sculptural pieces, monolithic votive stupas, terracotta seals, bronze objects, glass bangles etc.

Ratnagiri Entry Ticket Cost

Indian Visitor = Rs. 25
Children (Below 15) = Free
BIMSTEC Visitor = Rs. 25
Foreign Citizens = Rs. 300
Video Charges (only for excavation site and not museum) = Rs.25

Museum Entry Fee (for all) = Rs. 5
Museum Entry Fee (below 15 years) = Free

Udayagiri

The last place amongst the Diamond Triangle is Udayagiri. Amongst the other two this site was excavated much later and was done in two phases thus, we have the Udayagiri 1 and Udayagiri 2. This is the largest Buddhist site in the state and still being expanded after further planed excavations.

Entrance of Udayagiri Archaeological Area

Udayagiri Archaeological Area – Some Stone Remains Can Be Visible

Udayagiri – Take Left Road for Excavation Site 2 and Right Road for Excavation Site 1

Stepwell – Udayagiri

This is the very first structure you will come across in this archaeological site. This is an ancient stone well sometimes referred in Northern India as Baoli. It has a stairs, which takes you to the bottom of the well, which has a square tank. From the other end of this stepwell, you can directly see the square tank deep below.

Water inside the Ancient Stepwell at Udayagiri

Shrine Complex – Udayagiri

If you take the left pathway, you will reach Udayagiri 2 section, which was excavated later. On your left, you will see a vast stretch of stone formations resembling several stupas most of which have only visible foundations. You will also be able to see some Votive Stupas out here.

Remains of Shrine Complex at Udayagiri – Mostly Restored

Stone Lion at Shrine Complex at Udayagiri

Votive Stupas - Shrine Complex at Udayagiri — Votive Stupas – Shrine Complex at Udayagiri

Stone Lions - Shrine Complex at Udayagiri — Stone Lions – Shrine Complex at Udayagiri

Drainage System - Shrine Complex at Udayagiri — Drainage System – Shrine Complex at Udayagiri

Unmarked Excavation Site

Votive Stupa - Unmarked Excavation Site at Udayagiri — Votive Stupa – Unmarked Excavation Site at Udayagiri

Monastery 2 – Udayagiri

Going past the Shrine Complex you will reach Monastery 2 which is clearly understood by its rectangular structure. Right at the centre there is a courtyard and in front you can see the main shrine with the stone statue of Buddha.

Votive Stupas - Monastery Section – Udayagiri — Votive Stupas – Monastery Section – Udayagiri

Monastery Section with Various Rooms – Udayagiri

Buddha Statue - Monastery Section – Udayagiri — Buddha Statue – Monastery Section – Udayagiri

Mahastupa – Udayagiri

From the stepwell if you take the right pathway you will reach the Udayagiri 1 section which was first to be excavated. The most prominent structure of this place is the Mahastupa. The Mahastupa is the most unique of all the three sites of Diamond Triangle as it features a Buddha in each direction which is accompanied by Bodhisattvas

Mahastupa - Udayagiri — Mahastupa – Udayagiri

Buddha One - Mahastupa - Udayagiri — Buddha One – Mahastupa – Udayagiri

Buddha Two - Mahastupa – Udayagiri — Buddha Two – Mahastupa – Udayagiri

Buddha Three - Mahastupa - Udayagiri — Buddha Three – Mahastupa – Udayagiri

Monastery 1 – Udayagiri

Going past the Mahastupa you will be able to see Monastery 1. The monks used these as residential complex while staying out here for meditation and education.

Half Submerged Stone Statue - Udayagiri — Half Submerged Stone Statue – Udayagiri

Main Shrine (Interiors) of Monastery 1 – Udayagiri

Udayagiri Entry Ticket Cost

There are no entry fee at this place for any visitor.

Ideally, you can do a day trip from Cuttack or Bhubaneswar and cover all the three sites and the two museums on the Diamond Triangle of Buddhism in Odisha. Would recommend you to start as early as possible to get enough time to cover all the sites. Best season would be winter as the sites would be clean of moss and weeds. Avoid the rainy seasons as with the rains the shrubs around the sites grow and turn the stone and terracotta structures in to a dull black in colour.

I hope you have enjoyed my blog on the Diamond Triangle of Odisha I had travelled to Odisha as a part of Times Passion Trails organized in association with Odisha Tourism.

Other Blogs on Odisha

Barabati Fort – Lost and Forgotten
Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar
Netaji Birthplace Museum – Cuttack
Odisha State Maritime Museum Cuttack
Daytrip to Chilka Lake from Puri
Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village

Netaji Birthplace Museum – Cuttack

BySubhadip Mukherjee March 1, 2019

Bengalis are proud of two common things, Netaji and Rosogolla and there is an ongoing debate as to who these two belong to originally. Both people of Bengal and Odisha claim it to be theirs. Well, me being a true blood Bengali won’t participate in that debate as I will be biased by default.

My fascination with World War II is not something unknown to many, I have done many types of research regarding the bombings of Calcutta during WWII and something which always came into the picture was INA and Netaji. I got so intrigued that I traveled all the way to Myanmar (Mandalay & Yangon) to know more about this period of history.

Netaji Birthplace Museum Cuttack

During my recent trip to Odisha as a part of Times Passion Trails organized in association with Odisha Tourism I had the opportunity to visit the city of Cuttack for the very first time and after crossing several narrow lanes and by-lanes which resembled more like an extended market which covered the street we reached a large gate with a mural of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. At once I knew that I was about to reach the house where Netaji was born on the 23^rd of January 1897.

I had read about this long time back so this opportunity was truly a moment to cherish for me as I could see the very place where the great leader was born.

This place is open to all and does not require any tickets, photography, and videography is prohibited and let me put a disclaimer that I had prior approval before shooting photos here. There are eleven galleries out here depicting the different important aspect of the life of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. Each of the galleries contains letters, photographs and various artifacts related to his life.

Commemorative Gate - Entrance from Jail Road — Commemorative Gate – Entrance from Jail Road

Netaji Birthplace Museum – Exteriors

Janakinath Bhawan – Netaji Birthplace Museum

Stable Outside the House (Now Converted into a Display)

Commemorative Stone Plaques outside the House

Garden Area inside the Main House Compound

Beautiful Mural Showing Netaji during INA

The Beautiful Two Storied House And the Corridor Connecting the Various Rooms

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 1 (Study)

Janakinath Bose, the father of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, settled in Cuttack in 1885 to practice law. He had his legal office here at Janakinath Bhawan. He became a successful lawyer and earned the membership of Bengal Legislative Council in 1912. In the same year, he became Government Pleader and was elected at the first non-official Chairman of the Cuttack Municipality. Some of the old furniture which originally belonged to his father can be seen here in this gallery.

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 2 (Early Life)

Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose was born here at Janakinath Bhawan on 23rd of January 1897. He was the ninth child and sixth son of his parents, Janakinath Bose and Prabhabati Devi. He spent his early childhood days in this house with his large family and had his early education at Cuttack from Protestant European School (Stewart School) and Ravenshaw Collegiate School. Netaji completed his schooling in 1913 and left for Calcutta (Kolkata) where he joined the Presidency College to pursue higher studies. He came back and stayed at Cuttack with his family during 1916-17. He left Cuttack in 1917 to join the Scottish Church College (Calcutta) to complete his education.

This gallery features various copies of old photographs of Netaji and his early life.

Gallery Showing the Various Stages of Family & Young Life of Netaji

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 3 – Prison Life

This gallery is designed in form of a Prison, to depict the “Prison life of Netaji” which had been a significant feature of the freedom struggle of India. During his stay in prison, Netaji had penned down a number of letters to his parents. The letters, displayed on the board are from various jails such as Mandalay Central Jail, Insein Central Jail, Alipore Jail, Presidency Jail, Rangoon Jail etc.

Some of the Letters Written By Netaji from His Jail Displayed

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 4 – Political Life

In 1920 Netaji was selected for the esteemed Indian Civil Service, but he had other plans. Influenced by the ongoing freedom struggle and inspired by the teachings of Vivekananda, Netaji had made up his mind to serve his country. He turned down the appointment and came back from England to join active politics. In the midst of an intense nationalist ardor during the non-cooperation movement, Netaji went to Bombay (Mumbai) and met Mahatma Gandhi. Following his instruction, he returned to Calcutta and met Deshbanshu Chittaranjan Das, the Congress working committee member and the leader of Gandhi’s non-cooperation movement in Bengal. Over the years, C.R. Das and Netaji developed a warm relationship. He readily introduced Netaji to the political scenario of the province to its youth movement; the trade union movement and assigned him important responsibilities.

Gallery Depicting Various Photographs from His Political Time

Gallery Depicting Various Photographs & Murals from His Political Time

While Gallery 1 – 4 is located on the ground floor rest of the galleries are located on the first floor

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 5 – National Bank of Azad Hind Limited

Determined to carry on the war of Indian Independence until the country was finally free from British shackles, Netaji placed the programme of “Total Mobilisation” before the Indians in East Asia and added: “I then demanded of my countrymen an increasing flow of men, money, and materials so that we could prepare for and launch an armed struggle for the freedom of our country“. The response was overwhelming and Netaji gratefully acknowledged the fact that his countrymen in East Asia had responded generously to his appeal. Accordingly, it was possible to fulfill his pledge to set up a second front in India and fight the enemy on the sacred soil of India. In the execution of the financial programme, they were able to start a bank of their own. The National Bank of Azad Hind Ltd., at the beginning of April 1944 in Rangoon (Yangon), Burma (Myanmar). The Bank had proved to be such a success that branches were opened in many places.

Beautiful Wooden Staircase inside the House

Gallery 5 (First Floor) - National Bank of Azad Hind Limited — Gallery 5 (First Floor) – National Bank of Azad Hind Limited

Original Currency Note from National Bank of Azad Hind Limited

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 6 – Indian National Army

The Indian National Army (INA) was founded by Captain Mohan Singh in Singapore on 1st September 1942 with Japan’s Indian “Prisoner of War” in the Far East with the support of ‘The Indian Independence League’, headed by expatriate nationalist leader Ras Behari Bose. The first INA was however disbanded in December after a disagreement between the Hikari Kikan and Mohan Singh, who came to believe that the Japanese High Command was using INA as a mere pawn and propaganda tool. However, the idea of a Liberation Army was revived with the arrival of Subhas Chandra Bose in 1943. Ras Behari Das handed over control of the organization to Subhas Chandra Bose. This is where he earned the name “Netaji“. He was able to recognize the fledgling army and gather massive support among the expatriate Indian population in South-East Asia. INA had a separate women’s unit, the Rani of Jhansi Regiment (named after Rani Lakshmi Bai) headed by Capt. Lakshmi Sahgal (Swaminathan), which is said to be the first ‘all women’ regiment in the world.

Gallery with Photographs and Uniform from INA Period

Insignia & Badges Used by INA Service Personnel

Stethoscope Used By INA Service Personnel (Medics)

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 7 – Provincial Government of Azad Hind

On October 21, 1943, Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose proclaimed the formation of the Provincial Government of Azad Hind (Free India) at a historic assembly at Cathay Cinema Theatre in Singapore. The Provincial Government was recognized by nine states including three world powers – Japan, Germany, and Italy. Thus for the first time during two hundred years, Indian freedom fighters tasted independent statehood. The first official act of the Provincial Government was to declare war on Britain and America; and to solemnly declare “the permanent Government of India will be formed after the war, in accordance with the will of the Indian people“. This event was a memorable document in the history of India’s freedom struggle. After proclaiming the government, Netaji took the oath as the Head of The State and Prime Minister of The Provincial Government of Azad Hind.

On 22^nd October 1943, Netaji formally inaugurated the Rani of Jhansi Regiment of the Azad Hind Fauj. This fighting unit of Indian women warriors was concrete expression if Netaji’s belief on the equality of men and women and his determination to give women equal and full opportunity in every aspect of life and human endeavor.

National Anthem of Provincial Government of Azad Hind

Stamps Issued by Provincial Government of Azad Hind

Posters and Other Promotional Materials by Provincial Government of Azad Hind

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 8 – Azad Hind Radio

In 1942 Netaji called for “Total Mobilisation” for the cause of the freedom of our motherland. He demanded from the masses, “Men, Money, and Materials”. To take his message to every doorstep he needed a powerful medium of mass communication, hence the proposed and started the Azad Hind Radio. This service was started in early 1942 and it helped Netaji to spread his message to every corner of the nation.

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 9 – Birth Room

Janakinath Bose wrote in his diary, dated 23/01/1897, that Subhas was born this day a few minutes after 12 noon here in this house. This particular room is believed to have been the birth room of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. The room displays, an old bedstead, photographs, copy of the diary page recording and decorative objects belonging to the Bose family.

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 10 – Spiritual Life

The revolutionary spirit of Netaji was inspired by spiritualism, deeply influenced by Swami Vivekananda, Ramakrishna Paramahamsa, Sri Aurobindo, and the Bhagavad Gita.

Swami Vivekananda’s philosophy and teachings on Nationalism, Universalism and Social Reformation had a profound impact on him from his childhood. His political and socialistic thoughts also drew inspiration from the teachings of the Bhagavad Gita, inculcated in him by his mother Prabhabati Devi.

Netaji Birthplace Museum –Gallery 11 – Family Life

In 1941, Subhas Chandra Bose reached Berlin and set up an Indian Embassy in Germany. An Austrian lady Mill Emilie Schenkl joined the Indian Embassy as Secretary, Her devotion to duty and love for India impressed Netaji so much that in the beginning in 1942 he proposed and got married to her at a ceremony in Vienna. It was a “Gandharva Vivaha” because they could not be married under the then existing German Marriage Law. The marriage took place at the residence of Miss Schenkl and an Indian friend and a Viennese gentleman were present during the function. On 29^th November 1942, in Vienna, a daughter was born to Subhas and Emilie. They named her Anita.

Family Tree of Netaji (Click for Larger Version)

The Great Escape Route of Netaji (Click for Larger Version)

Overall, this museum is a nice place to spend half a day; it would take time to go through all the exhibits, as there are quite a few in each of the sections. There is ample parking space available if you approach the museum from the main gate that is the Jail Roadside. There is a small shop at the entrance selling souvenirs and other reading materials, which you purchase if you want to know more about Netaji.

Location of Netaji Birthplace Museum

Location on Google Maps

OTHER BLOGS ON ODISHA

Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar
Odisha State Maritime Museum Cuttack
Daytrip to Chilka Lake from Puri
Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village
Barabati Fort – Lost and Forgotten

Odisha State Maritime Museum Cuttack

BySubhadip Mukherjee February 22, 2019

Have you heard of the “Viking of British India”? If not don’t feel bad neither did I until at least a week back. Some referred to him as the “King of Jobra”, someone who after living in India for more than forty years started calling India as his home yet could not even speak or understand any Indian languages.

George H Faulkner was an engineer by profession and a native of Manchester. He had learned his trade in one of the many engineering workshops that once thronged Lancashire. He had come to India around 1833 when he was just twenty years old and as per records after initial service in Madras (Chennai) where he had worked in the Irrigation Company which has formed for the purpose of irrigation canal construction on Godavari River which was then part of the Madras presidency. This company also had contracts for further canal construction on Mahanadi thus George H Faulkner had shifted to a small locality in Cuttack known as Jobra.

Later on, this Irrigation Company was taken over by the British Crown (Government of British India) thus becoming directly employed under the crown.

One of his most significant work was to start the Boat repair workshop in Jobra in the year 1869. This workshop was under the PWD (Public Works Department). Faulkner was a skilled artisan himself thus knew his trade from the back of his hands. Jobra was like his own kingdom and he was the undeclared “King of Jobra”. His engineering skills were legendary and during the construction of canals around Cuttack (on Mahanadi) he was known to have been the problem solver by inventing machines in his Jobra workshops which aided in the construction process. Jobra was also a place where extensive boat repairs were done in the workshop.

Odisha then was a part of Bengal Presidency and after the great famine in the state; it was decided to expand the irrigation system in and around Odisha to prevent this disaster in the near future. Thus, Jobra PWD Workshop played an important role in the maintenance of the machinery and the boats.

George H Faulkner was a Freemason and was a member of the Cuttack Lodge this surely is reflected in his working style which involved a lot of men especially native laborers who he had to keep check yet maintain an atmosphere of finesse.

Over the decades, this workshop slowly was lost in oblivion and just rusted away with time. Boats were no more required to be repaired here as larger dockyards had already come up in Calcutta, Paradip, and Machilipatnam. This place lay in ruins for decades and finally in 2013 was revived as a Maritime Museum. A lot of restoration works were carried out and finally, we got the Odisha State Maritime Museum.

Odisha State Maritime Museum – Now After Renovation

Lighthouse outside the Odisha State Maritime Museum

Original Foundation Stone of the PWD Workshop Marking the Date as 1 January 1869

Layout of the Museum (Click to Download High Resolution Diagram)

This museum has fourteen galleries each properly demarcated, each of these galleries have a different set of information. As you enter start from your right and then proceed.

The different galleries at Maritime Museum

Introduction Gallery
Maritime History Gallery
Boat Building Gallery
Jobra Workshop Gallery
Maritime Rituals Gallery
Navigation Gallery
Monuments on Odishan Coast Gallery
Boat Shed Display
Saw Mill
Boat Repairing Jetty

Apart from this, there is an open-air amphitheater where you have events, an exhibition gallery, library, multimedia room, computer section where you can find more information about any particular maritime subject, activity room for the children and a souvenir shop.

Last but not least there is also an Aquarium which is a must visit section.

Odisha Maritime Museum – Introduction Gallery

This section mainly comprises of old artifacts and old photographs of the workshop as it was before the renovation. You can see some old signaling lamps, cannons, compass, utensils and other objects from that period and mostly found at the site.

Introduction Gallery – Stone Anchor from 1866

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Maritime History Gallery

This section, you will see many three dimensional dolls or mannequins depicting the history of Kalinga and its maritime connections with the rest of the world.

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Boat Building Gallery

In this gallery, you can see a depiction of boat building activity, which has been carried on for centuries in and around ancient Kalinga. You will find photographs and illustrations along with models depicting various boat building activity.

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Jobra Workshop Gallery

This section of the museum is what I liked the most as this section houses all the old tools and machinery used at the Jobra workshop. This section is the metal workshop so all bending, shaping, cutting etc. were done here. The old machinery has been wonderfully restored and mannequins depict the various activities within the workshop.

Jobra Workshop Gallery – Various Tools & Machinery

Jobra Workshop Gallery – Mannequins and Machinery

Jobra Workshop Gallery - Crane from Union Foundry, Bradford — Jobra Workshop Gallery – Crane from Union Foundry, Bradford

Massive Drilling Machine from Nasmyth Wilson & Co, Patricroft

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Maritime Rituals Gallery

India is steeped in traditions and this is found in boat building activity, for sailors as well as for fishermen. Religious activities have seamlessly merged with maritime and in Odisha, this has a long history. This gallery features several three-dimensional models depicting the various rituals associated with maritime in this part of India.

Maritime Rituals Gallery – Rituals before Starting a Construction of a Boat

Maritime Rituals Gallery – Praying for a Safe Passage

Maritime Rituals Gallery – Rituals before First Voyage

Maritime Rituals Gallery – Kartik Purnima Celebrations

Maritime Rituals Gallery – A Typical Village House

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Navigation Gallery

This gallery has a huge collection of navigation tools from different decades and centuries. From compasses to sextants, you will also be able to see models depicting chart navigation system.

Navigation Gallery – Marine Compass (Brass)

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Monuments on Odishan Coast Gallery

There are quite a few monuments along the Odisha cost associated with maritime, these sections show scale models of some of these.

Monuments on Odishan Coast Gallery - Pothagarh Fort (Ganjam) — Monuments on Odishan Coast Gallery – Pothagarh Fort (Ganjam)

Monuments on Odishan Coast Gallery - Hukitola building Kendrapara — Monuments on Odishan Coast Gallery – Hukitola building Kendrapara

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Boat Shed Display

India has a long history of indigenous boats and in this gallery; you get to see different types of boats from other states. This shed also hoses some vintage trucks, which were originally used in the workshop.

Boat Shed Display – Various Boats from Other States

The workshop, which was once the pride of Jobra and was completely run down now, has been restored to its former glory. All the different sections of the workshop have been renovated and now houses the exhibits. You can get an overall feel how the workshop used to originally look like if you stroll along the gardens.

Beautifully Restored Buildings – Classic 19th Century Architectural Style

Beautifully Restored Buildings at Odisha State Maritime Museum

(Left) Beautifully Restored Building (Right) How It Was Before Restoration

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Saw Mill

Boats were basically made of wood along with the support of metal structures. This section of the museum houses the machinery used to cut and shape wood for boat repair.

Boat Repairing Jetty (Dry Dock) With Lock Gates, Which Has Access to Canals

Pulley & Wrench Used To Pull the Boat inside the Dry Dock Area

Newly Built Amphitheatre Used For Various Activities at the Museum

ODISHA MARITIME MUSEUM – Aquarium

The newly built museum has an aquarium where you can see various biotopes, which have been carefully recreated. You can see various type of sea life, which belong to each of these biotopes. Baitarani. Bhitarkanika, Amazon, Lake Chilka, Mahanadi, Tanganyika and Koi pond are some of the sections in the display.

Overall, this museum has a lot to offer thus I would recommend a half a day tour in order to see all the sections within the museum properly. There is a cafeteria within the museum thus you will not go hungry if you need a quick bite also do check out the souvenir shop located within the museum for some exciting collectible items and gifts.

Indian Vagabond was specially invited by Times Passion Trails in association with Odisha Tourism to attend this cultural & heritage trail of Odisha. I would like to thank the entire team for curating this wonderful tour.

References

Memoirs of a Bengal Civilian by John Beames
Quarterly Civil List For Bengal No.53
Allen’s Indian mail and register of intelligence for British and foreign India: 1878, 7/12
Maritime history comes alive – Naveen inaugurates museum on Utkal divas
Maritime Museum

OTHER BLOGS ON ODISHA

Tribal Museum Bhubaneswar
Netaji Birthplace Museum – Cuttack
Daytrip to Chilka Lake from Puri
Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village
Barabati Fort – Lost and Forgotten

Daytrip to Chilika Lake from Puri

BySubhadip Mukherjee September 10, 2018

For quite some time during my childhood, we used to live in Bangalore (Bengaluru) and that means regular train travel since air travel was simply out of the question. One of the highlights of the train travel was when the train traveled right next to Chilika Lake. We as a family did quite a few trips to Puri but somehow always skipped a trip to Chilika. Forever I wanted to see the Dolphins and of course the charm of a long boat ride.

Every time the train would pass Chilika Lake I would peep outside the window trying to get a good look at it. Since only a small portion of the lake can be visible from the moving train thus the beautiful scenery would just zoom past. I would wish that someday I would get the opportunity to see the lake for real.

So when I got invited by Sterling Resorts along with few other bloggers to have a different experience I was super excited when I came to know later that the trip would include a day trip to Chilika Lake. This was like one of my childhood dreams coming true.

The day trip was planned for day two and after a quick morning breakfast the group of bloggers set out in three different vehicles towards Chilika Lake. The road is well paved and being a weekday had very less traffic. The only traffic hurdles that we found were the hundreds of cows that randomly sit in the middle of the road right in between traffic. No amount of honking can move them thus it’s for the drivers to go past them. With a recent spell of rain, the weather was just perfect with a cloudy sky it was just what you wanted for a day out in open waters.

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (3) — Beautiful Chilka Lake On a Cloudy Morning

We reaching Satapada Garh which is less than an hour’s drive from Chilika where there is a jetty from where usually all the tour boats depart. There is also a Yatri Nivas near the waterfront which is currently undergoing renovation and once ready would be a perfect place to spend a night next to the lake.

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (1) — Chilika Lake from Satapada Garh

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (2) — Chilika Lake from Satapada Garh

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (4) — Chilika Lake

Now here is a disclaimer even though I love the thought of going for a long boat ride honestly I am very scared of a boat ride only for the reason that I can’ swim. This fear was unfound when I got to see that all tourist boats have life jackets for all the occupants.

The jetty at Chilika looks really modern with several concrete piers which can support several boats together. There are both motor boats as well as boats with oars while motor boats are mainly used for tourists the later they are preferred by the fisherman. Chilika is the largest coastal lagoons in India and the second largest in the world thus don’t be surprised to see a lot of traffic on the waterways also. In the distance you will be able to see large vessels loaded with human as well as heavy motor vehicles crossing the water.

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (5) — Beautiful Jetty at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (6) — Vacant Piers at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (9) — Fishing Boats on Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (10) — Large Goods Carriers on Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (11) — Smaller Tourist Boats on Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (12) — Beautiful Cloud Covered Hills Near Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (13) — As The Cloud Clears Up On Chilika Lake

The first part of the trip was to visit a particular area within the lake where its known to have a population of Irrawaddy Dolphins. Unlike the black and white ocean dolphins, these are greyish in color thus extremely difficult to spot in the waters of the lake. The boatmen usually know their location as according to them there is only a particular area within the lake that the dolphins usually roam around.

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (14) — Grainy Unfocused Photos of an Irrawaddy Dolphin at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (15) — Grainy Unfocused Photos of an Irrawaddy Dolphin at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (16) — Dorsal Fins of an Irrawaddy Dolphin at Chilika Lake

These dolphins are very shy and you have to be extremely vigilant to spot one. We were lucky to spot two of them but photographing them was a challenge since the rocking boats made it almost impossible to focus properly. Moreover, the sounds of the boat engines usually scare them away thus the sighting is all upon chance.

Our final destination was to reach the Rajhans Island Picnic Spot which you need to navigate with a boat and reach. It’s a narrow strip of the sand island from where you can reach the Chilika Sea Mouth. Another attraction of this island is the numerous food shacks that sell prawns, fish, crabs, and other seafood. All of which are cut, cleaned and cooked right in front of you and served hot.

Floating Food Shacks Near Rajhans Island Picnic Spot

Food Shacks at Rajhans Island Picnic Spot

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (19) — Boats Dock at The Island Right Next to The Food Shacks at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (20) — Boats Dock at The Island Right Next to The Food Shacks at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (21) — Just Choose From The Fresh Catch Of Crabs, Fish or Prawns

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (22) — Fresh Crabs Being Cooked Right in Front of You at Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (23) — Delicious Chilika Crabs Ready to Be Eaten

On crossing the Island, you get to the sea front but this is not a place where you can swim since the beach is at an extreme slope and the sea gets deep within few steps. However, the scenery is absolute serene with very few people venturing this part of the lagoon.

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (24) — Rajhans Island – View from The Lake Side Towards the Sea

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (25) — Rajhans Island – Chilika Lake

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (26) — Rajhans Island – Sea Front

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (27) — Chilika Lake – Rajhans Island Sea Beach

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (28) — Chilika Lake – Rajhans Island Sea Beach

The ride back was equally interesting as we could spot many wild fishing cats lurking around the bushed amongst the numerous islands. These creatures are very shy and a hint of humans will send them running for cover.

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (30) — Some of The Islands Around Chilika Lake Full of Wildlife & Birds

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (31) — Some of The Islands Around Chilika Lake Full of Wildlife & Birds

Overall this can be a full day tour of Chilika keeping some time to enjoy the nature absolutely to yourself.

Tips for A Day Trip to Chilika Lake

– Make sure the boat has adequate life jackets for all the occupants

– Carry sunscreen lotion as you need to travel on open waters for long

– A sun hat is always recommended

– Carry adequate drinking water as the bottled water available at the food shacks can be expensive

– Carry light eatables for the journey especially if you have young children

– If you are allergic to seafood stay away from the prawns and crabs

– Absolute no bathing at the sea beach

– Keep the island clean by not littering around. Carry back the empty packets and bottles back to the boat

Daytrip Chilka Lake Puri (32) — One Final View of Chilika Lake for The Day

This whole adventure of a day trip to Chilika Lake was planned and organized by Sterling Resorts and I would surely recommend anyone traveling to have this in their itinerary. This really goes perfectly with the theme of #HolidayDifferently.

Location of Chilika Lake On Map

Other Blogs On Puri

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village

BySubhadip Mukherjee September 6, 2018

The first vacation that a Bengali family usually takes would be either a trip to Puri or to Darjeeling. For my family, it started with a planned trip to Darjeeling in the mid-1980’s. All the bags were packed and I was super excited especially to see Tiger Hills which I thought was a hill full of tigers back then at an age eight nothing could be more exciting. We reach the station to board our train only to find out that all trains to the hills were canceled due to recent agitation by some political parties.

Not to disappoint us my father made an impromptu trip Puri as an alternative. I still have some faintest memories like the beach, the railway station where a couple was fighting (the wife not happy with the choice of train seat) and the sweet meat selling vendors. Not to forget the sumptuous lunch cooked by my mom which included chicken, mutton and of course tons of fish. Yes, back then most families cooked their own food while staying at one of the several holiday homes. This was also a trip where my grandmother was also with us which I believe was the only time she had accompanied us during a vacation.

Years passed, decades pass and after more than a dozen trip to Puri, I was getting bored of the same sea, sand, and food so when I was invited by Sterling Resorts to enjoy their hospitality I was initially not interested as I did not want to go through the same regime. However, on knowing that a couple of my blogger friend would also be joining me I hastily agreed.

The day we reached the resort we were told after the initial briefing that we would be taken to a special place for a tour and our lunch would also be served out there prepared by the villagers consisting if traditional dishes. I was more fixated about the traditional lunch and initially did not pay much attention to the name of the village.

Reaching Raghurajpur Heritage Village

It took around twenty minutes by car to reach the village called Raghurajpur some 14 kilometers away from the main Puri town. It is then I realized that once I had read about this very special heritage village of Raghurajpur which is known worldwide for its Pattachitra painters and other craft works.

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (1) — The Signage Outside Raghurajpur Village

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (2) — Information About the History And Heritage Of Raghurajpur Village

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (3) — Marble Bust of Jagannath Mohapatra the First Person to Win President’s Award for Promoting Pattachitra

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (4) — Bust Of Padma Shri Maguni Charan Das Considered As The Master Of Gotipua Dance

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (7) — A Local Village Leader Explains the History of the Village

Pattachitra

For those who are wondering what Pattachitra are then it’s a traditional scroll painting usually done on a cloth having narratives of mythological tales. In olden days before the advent of television and cinema, traditional singers would travel from village to village with these scroll of paintings and would narrate out the mythological stories by singing along with visual reference through these Pattachitra. These style of painting would often involve bright colors and large motifs.

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (6) — Sample Pattachitra On Cloth (Photo Courtesy Shakti – Creative Commons)

Other than Pattachitra this heritage village is also known for this palm leaf paintings along with other craft items. The whole village as such in involved in these activities. What makes it more interesting is that each house in this village has a story to be told and each of them has decorated their front entrance as beautifully as the Pattachitra itself.

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (5) — Traditional Pattachitra On Palm Leaf

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (8) — A Village Woman Working On A Palm Leaf

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (9) — Paper Mache Masks

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (10) — Paper Mache Masks

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (11) — Colourful Hand Painted Storage Containers

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (12) — A Boy in The Village Playing with A Toy Doll in The Backdrop with Handmade Colourful Toys

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (13) — Colourful Paper Mache Masks

You should not be surprised if you happen to see a lady busy painting earthen pots or see someone actually painting a Pattachitra. The villagers are very friendly and encourage you to take as many photos as you wish. Be courteous to them and they will even invite you inside their homes to see the crafts being prepared.

Most of The Houses in Raghurajpur Village Have Beautifully Painted Walls Replicating Pattachitra Style

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (15) — Beautifully Painted Walls of Raghurajpur Village

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (16) — A Local Home Owner at Raghurajpur Village Explains Us The Art Of Mask Making

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (17) — A Woman at Raghurajpur Village Can Be Seen Hand Painting Products

This village has a landmark almost equally important as Pattachitra that is the original house of Kelucharan Mohapatra the legendary Odissi dancer. A name which is almost synonymous with the dance itself. Unfortunately, very little is left of that house and only some pillars still stand to tell a story of a forgotten past.

Gotipua – Traditional Odisha Dance

Talking about the dance guru one would also like to talk about the dance form of Gotipua something with Kelucharan Mohapatra used to perform during his childhood which ultimately led him to master this art form. Gotipua is a dance performed only by young boys before they reach adolescence and the most unique thing is that they are dressed as girls. From their hair to their makeup to the clothes that they wear is that of a girl making them look very much feminine.

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (19) — Gotipua Dancers Of Raghurajpur Village

Gotipua dance form is the predecessor of Odissi dance something which was performed at temples. The temples had female dancers in the form of Devdasis who would perform dances like depicting the romance of Radha and Krishna. Later on when the tradition of Devdasis was discontinued these boys dressed as young girls danced in the temples.

Raghurajpur is supposedly to be the heart of Gotipua and the tradition still continues with young boys from the village taking up this dace form at a very young age. They are trained at the newly built training center dedicated to promoting the dace from of Gotipua.

Gotipua also fuses acrobatics and along with elegant dance moves you should not be surprised to see some acrobatic moves which include human tower formation. The song that is sung along with this form of dance also involves only young boys in keeping with the tradition.

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (20) — Gotipua Performed by Young Boys Dressed Up As Girls At Raghurajpur Heritage Village

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (21) — Gotipua Dance Involves A Lot Of Body Flexibility

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (22) — Gotipua Dance at Raghurajpur – Posing As A Running Horse

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (23) — Acrobatic Postures During Gotipua

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (24) — Acrobatic Postures During Gotipua

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (25) — Acrobatic Postures During Gotipua

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (26) — Acrobatic Postures During Gotipua

Coming back to the original attraction that is the traditional lunch that we were promised was true to its name. We were escorted to a dining area where banana leaves were placed on the floor where our lunch would be served in line with the tradition. The kitchen located next to this dining area had a large wood-fired cooking facility where our food was being prepared.

Traditional Raghurajpur Food

The traditional lunch consisted of Rice, Dahi Bengan (aubergines with a curd gravy), Meetha Cholar Daal (Sweet Bengal Gram), Mixed Vegetables, Mixed Saag, Papad. What came next was something very unique to this section of Odhisa which is Chura Kadma with Cheena. This is basically crushed chura (flattened rice) which has been fried in ghee (clarified butter) along with dry fruits like cashew nuts and almonds served with a spoonful of cheese curd. Mind it this can be really very heavy and a couple of mouthfuls will surely make your belly full. Last but not the least we were served Payesh/Kheer (rice boiled in sweetened milk).

Daytrip to Raghurajpur Village (27) — Our Specially Prepared Odiya by The Villagers

Being really hungry this was much needed and tummy was full. These type of Odiya cuisine is something which is not well known other than a specific few items but it’s been a long tradition for Bengali families to utilize Odiya cooks during various occasions like wedding etc. thus their skills of cooking is something known across Bengal but this opportunity to have Odiya cooks preparing authentic Odiya cuisine and having them in that village of Raghurajpur was something really special.

So my bet of coming to Puri again was not disappointing at all as I got to see new things, witness new things and of course to taste new things. This whole adventure of a day trip to Raghurajpur was planned and organized by Sterling Resorts and I would surely recommend anyone traveling to have this in their itinerary. This really goes perfectly with the theme of #HolidayDifferently.

Thursday, December 5, 2024

Orisa Tourist spot

History of Ekamra Kshetra

Locations of all the important places at Ekamra Kshetra on Map

Lingaraj Temple

Chitrakarini Temple

Maitreswara Temple

Makareswara Temple

Aishanyeswara Temple

Yameswara Temple

Bakreswara Temple

Baitala Temple

Sisereswara Temple

Gosagareswara Temple

Uttareswara Temple

Asta Shambhu Temple

Taleswara Temple

Nabakeswara Temple

Parasurameswara Temple

Daitesvara (Pabakesvara) Temple

Kedar Gouri Temple

Mukteswara Temple

Siddheswara Temple

Champakeshwara Temple

Swarnajaleswara Temple

Kotiteertheswara Temple

Subarnajaleswara Temple

Sampoornajaleswara Temple

Pataleswara Temple

Brahma Temple

Anata Basudeva Temple

Mohini Temple

Marakandeswara Temple

Bhabani Shankara Temple

Tertheswara Temple

Suka Sari Temple

Ganga Yamuna Temple

Lakheswara Temple

Kartikeswara Temple

Dakara Bibhishaneswara Temple

Purbeswara Temple

Swapneswara Temple

Ekamreswara Temple

Minor Laterite Temples

Kharakhia Vaidyanatha Temple

Shyamesvar & Nilakanthesvara Temple

Dalmiya Dharamshala

Doodwawalla Dharamsala

Jagannatha Matha

Bharati Matha

Emara Matha

Curzon Mandap

Lingaraja Haat

Ekamravan

Manikarnikeswara Ghaat

Devi Padahara Tank

Papanasini Tank

Bindusagar Lake

Kora Khai

Important Tips

What To See At Kaima Hill

Location of Kaima Hill

Tips

How to Reach Bajragiri

What to see at Bajragiri

Tips For Visiting Bajragiri

History of Pushpagiri

Location of Pushpagiri Langudi Hill

Excavation of Langudi Hill

What to see at Langudi Hill (Pushpagiri)

Tips

References

What To See Around Dhauli Hill

Dhauli Shanti Stupa

Dhabaleswar Temple

Rock Edicts of Ashoka

Ashoka Pillar & Buddha Statue Park

Kalinga Dhauli Mahotsav

Tips

Resources