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Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery
Like many, the pandemic lockdown was a big shock and somehow, I had to get over the season of no assignments and work from home. So, to get over the boredom I made a list of places that can be visited on a day trip. One of them was Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery, for some strange reason I kept avoiding this place coz the name gave me the creeps. So, it was not ironic that this place was one of the last places that I had visited along with a friend at almost the end of the pandemic season which was around October 2021.
Navigating in Howrah (Ghusuri) that too on a motorcycle can be challenging as the GPS on the mobile often cannot tell me if the road is a narrow lane with barely enough space for the motorcycle to pass through or if the road is wide enough for two trucks. Somehow, I managed to navigate through lanes and by lanes before reaching a laborer’s quarters and the small concrete lane just happen to pass through it.
I was kind of reluctant and luckily found a lady who knew the family had the key to the main gates and confidently told us to enter the premises without any hesitation.
The main temple was the only place that was in slightly better condition whereas the rooms in the adjacent building were almost crumbling down. The same sorry state was seen in the temple-style memorials which surrounded the property.
History of Bhot Bagan
Calcutta being Calcutta true to its nature had adopted various communities around the globe so why not adopt another community who called this place their home? Bhot Bagan is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery and why the Tibetans had to set up a monastery out here is a story in itself.
Bhot Bagan monastery was founded by Puran Gir Goosain as a direct request from the Tashi Lama of Tibet. Back then East India Company was constantly trying to expand its reach in the subcontinent and at the same time was facing stiff resistance from Tibetan states on the northern front of Bengal.
The story however did not start in Tibet but started in the princely kingdom of Bhutan. In 1772 the chief of Bhutan invaded Kuch Behar (Cooch Behar). With no help in sight and under pressure the maharaja approached Warren Hastings for military aid. With additional force, the Bhutanese army was completely destroyed and pushed beyond the borders. In exchange, Hasting had made the Maharaja take half of the kingdom’s revenue and also join Bengal to remain protected.
The Bhutanese chief (Depa Shidar) immediately got in touch with the Tibetan chief Tashi Lama (Lobsang Palden Yeshe) 6th Panchen Lama who was then the guide to the minor Dalai Lama to intervene. A delegation from Tibet was sent to Calcutta in 1773 along with a letter for Warren Hastings. The delegation reached Calcutta and the letter was received by Hastings on the 29th of March 1774.
A treaty was signed between the Bengal Government and Bhutan on the 27th of April 1774. The treaty highlighted that Bhutan return all the prisoners of war and in return, they keep enjoying duty-free trade as they used to.
To mediate further trade talks with Tibet Warren Hastings on the 13th of May 1774 appointed George Bogle who along with Dr. Alexander Hamilton and Puran Gir Gossain traveled to Tibet to meet (Lobsang Palden Yeshe) 6th Panchen. The delegation reached Lhasa on the 8th of November 1774.
The Lama as a sign of peace and non-hostility requested Hastings to allot him land in Calcutta where he would set up a monastery for the faithful to come to meditate and pray. The request was forwarded through the hands of George Bogle to Warren Hastings.
Back in Calcutta Hastings orders the purchase of 100 (upward of 150 as per some record) acres of land to set up the monastery by Hastings. The land was purchased on the other side of the Hooghly facing the river at Howrah (Ghusuri). Once the construction of the temple and the monastery was completed Hastings personally sent a message to the Lama informing him of this.
On June 1776 the temple at Bhot Bagan was consecrated (blessed and made active). The main deity of the temple back then was Mahakal. The Lama from Tibet had sent lots of valuables like paintings, idols, carpets, etc. for the temple.
The deeds of the land were registered in the name of Puran Gir Gossain who acted as a dispel and representative of the Lama in 1778.
Over the year Puran Gir Goosain became like a liaison between the Tibetan kingdom and the company in Calcutta. He was respected and revered and thus it can be seen that many governors after Hastings had kept a steady visit to Bhot Bagan. In future diplomatic missions to Tibet Puran Gir Goosain was sent as a representative of the company.
The temple became a place for traders from Tibet to come and rest when they would come to Calcutta for trade. All around the temple premises small cottages would be constructed for the traders to rest.
Puran Gir Goosain was killed in the year 1795 when the temple compound was attacked by dacoits, he had successfully managed to save the temple but got himself killed in the process. The main idol of Mahakal was however lost and never found again. After his death, his follower Daljit Gir Gosain took over the reins of the temple.
Over the years the property hold of the temple shrunk and with limited or no maintenance the main building started to fall apart and became inhabitable.
The Mahant tradition also ceased to exist beginning of the 20th century and now the locals manage the temple and do the necessary cleanups.
What To See In Bhot Bagan
The name Bhot has nothing to do with Bhut (ghosts) which many people mistake with. The Tibetans refer to their land as Bhod from which we get Bhot and Bagan which means garden. So, in short, this is a Tibetan Garden Temple.
If you find the main gates of the temple compound closed simply knock and enquire on the house located opposite the main gate. They know the person having the key to the temple.
The vast area around the temple is densely covered in grass and shrubs, the local children often use this as a playground. The main double-story heritage structure is in a dire state and is inhabitable. The roofs almost collapsing and the walls crumbling.
The main temple however is in a relatively better state. The temple cannot be exactly called a Buddhist temple anymore as we can see a seamless mix of Hinduism in the form of Shiva Linga placed inside the temple.
The main deity which has been secured within an iron grill box is that of Tara. She is referred to as the female form of Buddha. This was one of the idols that once had occupied this temple and with the loss of the Mahakal idol, this started being worshiped.
On the eastern side of the property right next to the temple compound, one can see four small temple-like structures and another one is placed northeast side of the temple. These are tombs of Mahants who had served this temple. On the western side of the property at a distance, one can also see two more such structures but a lot bigger, these have now been converted into two Shiva temples.
As per traditions Mahants who were considered Sadhus are never cremated instead, they are buried in a seated position. The place where the dead Mahants were buried was later covered up to resemble traditional Bengal temples. Traditionally people would also offer prayers at these spots remembering them.
How To Reach Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery
The best way is by your vehicle be it a car or motorcycle. Two-wheelers have the advantage of easily navigating the small lanes. Just follow the map given below and you will reach the destination. Remember that this is a functioning temple that especially becomes active during Shivratri thus plan accordingly. The locals mostly refer to this temple as Mahakal Temple.
Location of Bhot Bagan Tibetan Monastery on Map
Resources
Bengal: Past and Present, Vol-02, Issue no – January-June
Buddhist Monastery at Bhot Bagan (Howrah) by Gaur Das Bysack
Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal 1832 by Asiatic Society
Howrah District
Royal Collection Trust
British Library UK
John Hopkins University
West Bengal Heritage Commission
Other Related Blogs
Tilpi and Dhosa Archaeological Site
Tilpi and Dhosa Archaeological Site
When I told my friend that we will be going to Tilpi and Dhosa then my friend was kind of shocked thinking that I was referring to having Jilipi (sweetmeat) and Dosa for lunch and must be planning to check out a new restaurant. I had to repeat myself that it’s a name of a place rather than the specific names of two villages Tilpi and Dhosa which are archaeological sites. Surprisingly these two villages on the southern end of Bengal land mass right before the start of the Sundarbans have Buddhist Archaeological remains.
I have been actively visiting Buddhist sites across Odisha and Bihar and have blogged about these places also. What was always puzzling my mind was why only Odisha and Bihar had a history of Buddhism and why Bengal which joins the two states had nothing significant.
History of Tilpi and Dhosa
The Archaeological records found in Tilpi make this place date back to around three periods. Period one is dated to the 2nd to 1st century BC whereas period three is dated to the 2nd to 3rd century AD. A lot of artifacts found here belong to the early Gupta Period.
There was a sudden end to the occupation of this place around the 2nd – 3rd century AD indicating some sort of devastation. Archeologists suggest that a massive fire could have been the reason behind this. Post this period no record of human civilization was recorded till around the 16th – 17th century AD.
Fa-Hien when he had come to India talked about a large stupa located which can be corresponded to the current location of Dhosa. The excavation process at Dhosa unraveled lots of terracotta bricks indicating the presence of a large well-built structure.
Both Tilpi and Dhosa are geographically located next to the Piyali river which again connects to Matla and Bidyadhari Rivers. And if we look back in time then Chandraketugarh was located on the banks of the Bidyadhari River which was once a major trading port attracting trade from all over the world.
The Tilpi Dhosa Adventure
It took around two and a half hours to reach Dhosa and another fifteen minutes drive towards the south will take you to the Archaeological site of Tilpi. Do not expect anything visual and it was tough trying to navigate the small concrete village roads trying to reach the spot. After asking a few locals and missing a few turns finally the site was reached.
With nothing visually seen it was a bit confusing, all that I could see was an open playing field and a club where local boys were playing carrom. Upon asking them they pointed toward the end of the field where there were lots of bamboo trees and a large mobile tower.
On inspecting nothing much could be made out; it was then a local man showed what remains of Archaeological digs which have now been covered up. The excavation was done years back (2005 – 2007) and the team found some terracotta and metal objects. No structures resembling a stupa were seen but random bricks were seen which could be assumed were part of some structure.
Off the record, the localities talked about rampant digging and looting of metal and other precious objects by some villagers which were sold off with the help of agents. Much before the government agencies could come and start digging a significant portion of the catch was already taken out.
The villagers were a bit offended by the lack of apathy shown by the government agencies who had promised the villagers that the place will be developed into a tourism hotspot and that would help the villagers. Nothing happened and after the dig was over the sections were simply covered up and that was the end of the story.
On the return journey, we stopped at Dhosa which was another Archaeological site and with the midday heat picking up we stopped at a shop to have some fizzy drinks. It’s my nature to strike up a conversation with the shop owners so that additional information could be gathered. Luckily the shop owner was very much aware of the Dhosa Archaeological site, he used to watch the team dig up the place for hours and informed that the site was barely five hundred meters from his shop.
He gave us easy directions as to just look out for the football ground. After a couple of minutes ride, we reach a small football ground but unlike any ground which would have level ground consisting of either soil or grass this small ground had rather an uneven surface and the ground was full of broken pieces of bricks.
Confused I ask a group of children and they happily point me to this very ground as the Dhosa Archaeological site. Similar to that to Tilpi the authorities had dug up and did their excavation and after finding a few artifacts then closed up the dig site. Unlike Tilpi a lot of terracotta bricks were discovered here which made it almost certain of remains from an earlier monastery or stupa.
In a way, I was very disappointed, while Buddhist Archaeological sites in Odisha and Bihar are so much visited and highlighted in media no one talks about these Buddhist Archaeological sites of Bengal. Disappointed I pick up a small piece of terracotta brick from the ground as a reminder to myself of what should not be done to any heritage sites like these.
Artifacts at State Archaeological Museum in Behala
Back home I made a couple of visits to the State Archaeological Museum in Behala as most of the excavated finds from Tilpi and Dhosa are supposed to be housed there and put on display. Thankfully there was a room and all the artifacts were displayed with proper labeling. The team at the museum was also helpful in explaining a lot about these sites. There are some books on sale out here which has more information about these two places but unfortunately, all of them are in Bengali.
I wish to thank my friends and Behala State Archaeological Museum for extending permission to photograph the original excavated artifacts.
How To Reach Tilpi and Dhosa
From Kolkata, it’s around 48 kilometers and the best way to reach both Tilpi and Dosha is by car or motorcycle. The road to the Tilpi site is very narrow so I would suggest parking your car at a distance and walking the last few hundred meters on foot.
Tip: The locals might sound a bit agitated so it’s better to approach them making it very clear that you are tourists and do not represent any government organization.
Location of Tilpi and Dosha on Map
Resources
Other Related Blogs
Gangani – Grand Canyon of Bengal
I always wanted to see the Grand Canyon in the US but I guess that dream will remain a dream for some time till then let’s explore what similarities we have in our own country. I had already covered Gandikota which I think is a very much underrated tourist destination. Next, the nearest that we have something close to the Grand Canyon here in Bengal in our very own Garbeta (West Midnapore) is Gangani.
How To Reach Gangani
The nearest railhead is Garbeta and many trains pass this station. From the station, you can hire a Toto (e-rickshaw) for a round trip including waiting time.
Gangani can easily be covered while touring around Bishnupur. It is around 28 Km from Bishnupur thus making it an ideal evening trip destination. There are easy road markers from the main road taking you towards the Gangani viewpoint. Usually, people come here with their vehicles and there is ample (paid) parking available.
Where To Stay in Gangani
The government tourist resort at Gangani is still under construction (May 2021) thus it’s recommended that you stay at Garbeta town which has a limited number of good hotels. Ideally, stay at Bishnupur where you have enough options when it comes to hotels and resorts.
Where To Eat at Gangani
Right at the viewpoint, there are many shacks selling tea, instant noodles, and other light snacks. These are not expensive and I would recommend a scenic evening at Gangani with a cup of tea.
Note: There are several stray dogs out there. Don’t be alarmed, these are very friendly and would jump and dance around you for some biscuits. Please do feed them they will surely make you happy with their wagging tails.
What To See at Gangani
Unlike the Grand Canyon and Gandikota which are formed by centuries of weathering and erosion of rocks out here in Gangani its more to do with soil erosion and the color of the soil is orangish-red which gives you the feeling of rock-like a canyon.
The canyons slope down to meet the Shilabati River giving a spectacular landscape. There is a concrete staircase that one can use to get down to the bottom of the canyon to explore the crevasse. One must be careful when at the bottom of the canyon as the ground is very uneven and for this do make sure you wear footwear with good grips. I would recommend sports shoes.
The canyon extends to a large area so don’t veer off to unknown corners and stay within visual range. If you are traveling during the rainy season then be prepared for a very muddy and slushy ground making it almost difficult to walk.
This part of Bengal sees a very extreme heat during the summers thus the best time to visit this place is during the winters. During summer only evening time is recommended.
Take time to enjoy nature and its natural land formation and the very beautiful Shilabati river making this a perfect photo frame.
Mythological History of Gangani
The locals swear by it and when it comes to mythology it’s very difficult to justify things logically. The locals refer to this place as Ganganii Danga. Danga when you translate from Bengali means land. The locals believe that the land formation was a result of an epic battle between Bheema and Bakāsura who was a Rakshasa. The battle was so fierce that the force created an uneven landscape.
Vlog on Gangani
Location on Map
Other Tourist Sites Nearby
Piardoba WWII Airfield Bankura
Resources
Places to visit in Bishnupur
In this blog, I am listing down all the places to visit in Bishnupur and the list primarily contains temples that I have also mentioned so other tourist attractions here that can be visited along with the temples. Bishnupur is not only about terracotta temples but there are stone (laterite) temples here equally. Along with that, you can visit some other ruins which were once part of the fort here at Bishnupur.
How To Visit Bishnupur
You can reach Bishnupur by train, car, or motorcycle. You can also take the bus but I would suggest not to as the bus services are not comfortable. Bishnupur has its train station and there are some regular trains from Santragachi and Howrah. I drove to Bishnupur from Kolkata and it was a comfortable journey taking around 5 hours with a breakfast stoppage.
Places to stay in Bishnupur
There are many hotels and resorts in Bishnupur alternatively you can also stay at hotels at Joypur Forest. Bishnupur is around 15 km from Joypur Forest and can be easily reached for a day trip to cover the temples.
How to Travel Around Bishnupur
The only way to cover the temples is by a toto (e-rickshaw). There are well-paved roads around Bishnupur but the roads are very narrow and, in some places, not even big to fit a large car. I had to face this and had promised never to make this mistake again. Some temples can be reached by car while for some the only way is to use a toto.
The toto’s run on per hour basis and have a fixed rate (as in the year 2022) of Rs. 200 per hour. So, it all depends on how long you will take to cover the list of temples. I would safely around somewhere between 5 – 6 hours if you want to cover all the temples and tourist attractions else can finish up with 2 – 3 hours if you only want to visit the popular ones.
I would recommend a two full-day trip to Bishnupur so that you can cover all the tourist attractions out there and explore some other nearby places.
List Of Tourist Places in Bishnupur
The list contains temples and some other interesting places located nearby. Except for three sites all other places are free. You do not have to purchase three separate tickets instead you just need one ticket which will let you cover all three. There is only one ticket counter at the Rasmancha from where you can get a physical ticket. However, you have the option to buy an e-ticket for that you don’t have to go to the counter at Rasmancha. The security guards posted at the temple gates will help you if you have any difficulty.
Photography at all these sites is free however videography has been restricted till further notice (May 2022).
All the information that I have provided about the tourist sites is taken from the information board erected by the Archeological Survey of India outside each of these places. If you want further details about the Malla kings and these temples then there is much information already available online which you can search.
I have listed down the temples and other tourist places according to a route so that all the temples can be visited with minimum travel time. At the end of the blog, you will also find a Google Map where I have pointed down all these places. You can use this map and travel with ease.
Stone Chariot
This is the smallest landmark out here in this town so don’t get disappointed by its size. This is like a miniature version of a wooden chariot but instead of wood, it has been carved out of laterite stones. It’s a double-storied structure and has a miniature Ekratna shrine on the top. Its lower portion is open on all sides and has five arched facades. The upper portion has a triple-arched facade. This structure is dated around the 17th century.
Choto Darwaza
This is a small stone gate that once stood near the Bishnupur fort. The walls are no longer visible however with some raised mounds they can be made out to be part of the fortification around the fort.
Constructed out of laterite stone was probably built during the reign of Bir Singha around the second half of the 17th century. The original structure had a plastered outer layer and only some portions of this are still visible.
Pathar Darwaza / Garh Darwaza
This gateway is located very near to the Choto Darwaza but the size is massive and has many internal sections and rooms. This gateway was the main entrance from the north into the Bishnupur Fort during the reign of Bir Singha the Malla king.
Lalji Temple
This temple is built with laterite stones in the Ekratna style. The temple is constructed on a large square plinth with a slightly curved roof. On this stands a single tower. There are three triple-arched gateways on three sides. The square sanctum has a single-arched opening on the south and east with a staircase on the east and west.
The dome-shaped ceiling and the vaulted porch are very prominent here. The single tower is Sapta Ratna with rigid Rekha turrets capped by a round Amalaka and pitcher.
The upper shrine chamber is open on all four sides by a single-arched gateway. The four corners of the temple are decorated with five series of horizontal double lines.
This temple was built by the Malla king Bir Singha in the year 1658.
Bishnupur Rajbari
Nothing remains of the erstwhile Rajbari, you can only see some portions of the main gate. This is a private property thus restrictions apply to tourists. You can see some portions of the Rajbari in a rundown condition inside.
Radhashyam Temple
This temple was built by Chaitanya Singha who was a Malla king. Built in the year 1758 this temple is on a square plan. This is an Eka Ratna south-facing temple built with laterite stones. This temple sits in a large courtyard with a high boundary. The external walls of the temple have carvings on low relief which are decorated with fine stucco works.
This is a functional temple and becomes especially important during the annual Durga Puja celebrations.
Mrinmoyee Temple
This is a very famous Durga Temple and for the past 1000 years, Durga puja has been celebrated here making it one of the oldest continuous Durga puja celebrations in Bengal. The temple structure however changed over the century but the devotion and celebration continue till date thus making this the oldest temple out here.
Krishna Balaram Deul Temple
Almost ignored these are a pair of temples located next to a large pond. From here you can view what remains of the Bishnupur Fort ruins. As the name suggests these are two temples in ruins and not under ASI. As the name suggests these have classic Deul style architecture but the size of these two temples is small compared to the other temples out here.
Bishnupur Fort / Hawa Mahal
Don’t get misguided when you hear the word fort, nothing of the original fort is present. A rather small portion of a palace is what that can be seen. This is commonly referred to as Hawa Mahal and it’s best to see this from the vicinity of Krishna Balaram Deul Temple as the place is not safe to approach considering the heavy shrubs and bushes that now have taken over this property.
Mahaprabhu Jiu Temple
Located opposite Krishna Balaram Deul Temple on the other side of the road this temple is a terracotta temple but in ruins. Entry to the temple is restricted. The board outside the temple dates around the first quarter of the eighteenth century built by king Gopal Singha.
Jor Bangla (Kesta Rai) Temple
Note: This monument requires a ticket. The physical ticket needs to be purchased from the ticket counter near Rasmancha or you can buy e-tickets on your mobile on the spot.
The actual name of this temple is Kesta Rai Temple but it’s more popularly known for its design which is in Jorbangla style. This temple was erected by Raghunath Singha who was a Malla king in the year 1655.
The temple faces the south and is raised on a square platform in the form of two traditional Bengal huts. The two slopes are joined in between and surmounted by a Char Chala Shikara on the top.
There are exquisite terracotta work and panels on the outer wall, inner wall as well as roof. These terracotta panels depict different scenes from Krishna Leela, social life, etc.
Gumghar
This is a real mysterious structure. The locals swear that this was once a torture chamber and criminals would be thrown inside the rectangular structure with a hollow in the middle. At the bottom of the hollow interior, there would be spears and other weapons that would kill the person thrown inside.
Unfortunately, there is no concrete proof of this and it has been passed by word of mouth. This is very challenging to validate as there is no way to see inside and satellite map images show the interior to be full of debris.
This could have been a granary also as having an execution place so close to several prominent temples is somewhat questionable.
Pancha Ratna (Shyamrai) Temple
Note: This monument requires a ticket. The physical ticket needs to be purchased from the ticket counter near Rasmancha or you can buy e-tickets on your mobile on the spot.
The actual name of this temple is Shyamrai Temple but popularly it’s known by its architectural style which is Pancharatna. This temple was built by Raghunath Singha in the year 1643 who was Malla king.
The square sanctum is surrounded by an ambulatory pathway with a porch opened by three multi-cusped arches on four sides. There are five Shikaras and the central one is octagonal while the others are square which are resting upon the four corners of a sloping roof in Pida order.
The decorative panels show us the contemporary socio-religious themes and other life of people back then. One can also see scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata in the terracotta panels. Some also feature Puranic tales.
Rasmancha
Note: This monument requires a ticket. The physical ticket can be purchased from the ticket counter out here or you can buy e-tickets on your mobile on the spot.
This is one of the most iconic structures of Bishnupur and usually, this comes to mind when someone thinks or even searches for Bishnupur online.
This is built on a square structure with a small shrine at the center and three corridors around it. A triple-arched facade occurs on its four sides. The shrine in the center is approached through the central arched opening on the south. The structure has a truncated pyramidal roof. This structure was constructed around 1600 or late 17th century.
During the Ras festival, idols from other temples were brought here for celebrations.
Acharya Jogesh Chandra Purakriti Bhaban
This is a museum that one may wish to visit if they would want to explore more about terracotta, music, culture, etc. There is also a very famous sari shop located right opposite the museum.
At this moment (May 2022) this museum is undergoing major renovations and part of the museum is open to visitors.
Sarbamangala Temple
This temple is located a stone’s throw distance from the museum right on the banks of Lal Bandh (lake). This temple is dedicated to Devi Shakti and is famous for being frequented by Ma Sarada.
Lal Bandh
The Malla kings wanted to be self-sufficient when it came to water thus, they built seven large water tanks within their fort walls. This was done so that the knowledge that the land has some water scarcity would not be left vulnerable if under attack from an enemy.
Lal Bandh also has another history associated with it. According to the locals, this particular tank gets its name from a lady named Lal Bai who along with her baby were killed here. They were killed by tying them on a boat and then the boat was loaded with big stone boulders and then sunk to the bottom of the lake. This was done by the subjects of the Malla kingdom.
Dalmadal Cannon
This is a wrought iron cannon that was built by The Malla rulers. There was once an inscription in Persian on the cannon but these are not visible any longer. At a later stage, this cannon was fired during Durga puja celebrations.
Chhinnamasta Temple
This is a very famous temple in Bishnupur and one can see the idol of the headless Chinnamasta.
Jor Mandir Temple Complex
This temple complex consists of three temples. This temple was built around the 18th century by the Malla Kings. This temple complex consists of three Ekratna temples all of them have been constructed with laterite which is square in plan and constructed on a raised plinth. The temple in the middle is slightly smaller than the rest two and is elaborately decorated with stucco work that depicts scenes from Ramayana and Krishna Leela.
The northern temple was built by Gopal Singha and his wife Dhvajamani Devi in 1726.
Nandalal Temple
This temple has a laterite structure and is built in the Ekaratna style. The temple faces the south and it has ornamentations on the sides of the three arched openings. This temple was constructed circa the 18th century.
Radha Govinda Temple
This temple was built in 1729 by the Malla king Krishna Singha. This south-facing temple is built with laterite stones and is with a square plan having a curved roof and surmounted by a Sikhara at the top. It also has some bas-relief carvings which were originally applied with fine stucco work. You can also find a small chariot that had been built with bricks on the side in form of a miniature temple.
Radha Madhab Temple
Next, we have the Radha Madhab Temple which shares its compound with Kalachand Temple and the Archaeological Survey of India sub-circle office.
This temple was built by Churamony Devi the wife of Krishna Singha who was a Malla king in 1737 as the name suggests its dedicated to Radha and Krishna.
Kalachand Temple
This is a temple built with laterite stones and is in Ekaratna style. It was built in the year 1656 by Raghunath Singha a Malla king.
It is raised on a low platform and stands with a corridor around the three-arched openings on all four sides. The single tower having a Saotararatha plan is topped by an amalaka and a pitcher rises from the center of the curved roof.
The decorations are mainly low-relief carvings with Krishna Leela as the main theme and other Pauranic deities, dancers, etc. One of the panels in this temple features Chaitanya Mahaprabhu.
This completes the cluster of temples and other attractions on the eastern side of the town. Since the next set of temples are on the northern and north-western side of the town so I would recommend that you take a break and have lunch or snacks. Post which you can resume the tour after a quick rest.
The next set of temples is scattered so again one would need to travel to these places by toto.
Radhabinode Temple
This temple was constructed by Manikyabarshi who was the wife of Raghunath Singha in the year 1659. This temple faces the east and is one of the two Atchala style temples in this town. The gap between the two sets of chalas are very narrow. The temple has extensive terracotta works.
Madanmohan Temple
This temple was constructed by Malla king Durjan Singha in the year 1694. This temple is built with bricks and has a single Sikhara on a curved Chala. Many terracotta panels can be seen on the walls around the temple.
Malleswar Temple
This temple was built by Malla king Bir Singha in the year 1622. It is built in Ekratna style with laterite stone. This is a Shiva temple and one can also find a small stone Nandi Bull on the temple premise.
Muralimohan Temple
This temple was constructed by Rani Chudamani wife of Malla king Vir Singha in the year 1665. This temple is built with laterite stone and is facing the south. This is also an Ekratna-style temple but with some differences. The three arched openings are found replaced by a covered ambulatory resting on a row of pillars and the inner sanctum is topped by a tower.
Madan Gopal Temple
This temple was constructed by Shiromani Devi the wife of Veer Singha in the year 1665. This is a Vishnu temple and it’s in Pancharatna style.
Other Places Near Bishnupur
Panchmura
I would suggest a half a day trip to Panchmura which is famous for its Bankura Terracotta Horses. If you are planning to buy some terracotta souvenirs from Bishnupur then trust me to visit this artisans’ village and you will know why. Things are almost one-fourth the price out here in Panchmura than in Bishnupur. Also, you get the experience of watching the artisans in action creating wonderful terracotta horses, elephants, cups, saucers, etc.
Gangani
Another half-a-day trip would be to the Grand Canyon of Bengal. I would suggest that you visit this place in the second half of the day and enjoy a beautiful evening here. Unlike the Grand Canyon in the United States of America, this is not a stone erosion but a landscape created by land erosion. The land makes a drop to the river bed and you can see rising mud canyons all around you. Don’t forget to relax out here and have a nice warm cup of tea from one of the several snack stalls out here.
Note: You will find several dogs around here and these are very friendly. Don’t panic if they start jumping and dancing around you. They do it will all tourists and they do this just for some biscuits.
Pairadoba Airfield
This is an abandoned airfield that was used by US Airforce during WWII. You can still see the concrete runway which was once used by bombers of USAF. There are no paved roads leading to this place and you have to navigate through wild grass and vegetation with only a narrow strip of unpaved and uneven road guiding you.
Monalisa Restaurant
On a side note, if you want to taste Bengali delicacies then you must visit the restaurant called Monalisa. It’s highly recommended by several people and I have tasted them myself. And the best part is that the cost won’t make a hole in your pocket.
Locations of Places to visit in Bishnupur on Map
Other Blogs on Bankura
Piardoba WWII Airfield Bankura
References
Archeological Survey of India (Kolkata Circle)
Bankura District Administration
West Bengal Tourism
Outlook India
Terracotta Temples of Baranagar
After Murshidabad and Cossimbazar this will be my last in this series and this blog, I will take you to some of the finest terracotta temples that can be found in this region. We will explore the terracotta temples of Baranagar. You can easily cover Baranagar in a day along with Koshbag and Rosnaiganj. On the way, there are a few more temples that you can also visit which I will explain at the end of the blog.
How To Visit Terracotta Temples of Baranagar?
Baranagar is on the other side of Murshidabad town across the Bhagirathi River so you need to cross the river and here comes the challenge. If you have a car and want to visit these places then you can only cross the river at Berhampore as that is the only place that has a bridge for vehicles. This also would mean that you have to take a long detour to cross the river. On the other hand, toto’s can cross the river on makeshift boats with a bamboo platform which would take around 2 to 3 minutes. But keep in mind the top speed of toto is 20 KMPH which would also mean a slow journey and it would take significant time to cover these places.
Where To Stay in Baranagar?
Tourists usually stay in Murshidabad if not then at Berhampore. But there are some new hotels also available at Azimganj and you can try these out also.
Short History of Terracotta Temple and Baranagar
The history goes back to the 1750s when a queen named Rani Bhabani decided to build 108 temples here. She wanted to rival the glamour of Varanasi in terms of the temple and financed the construction of all the temples. The reason why she did is that after the death of her husband Raja Ramakanta Moitra who was the zamindar of Natore (now in Bangladesh) she took over the zamindari and prospered. She devoted herself to a lot of philanthropic work and thus as a part of that she wanted to build temples.
It is said that she built around 107 temples here. She was a devotee of Shiva thus in most of the temples around here you will find a Shiva Linga.
Terracotta Temples of Baranagar:-
Panchamukhi Shiva Temple
The first temple that we will visit is the Panchamukhi Shiva Temple. As the name suggests Panchamukhi means five faces thus the Linga which is placed in the temple has five faces of Shiva. This is a functional temple and one of the most well maintained. The fresh coat of paint makes the temple look neat and clean but one must be careful about terracotta as layers of paint often cover up the finely detailed work overtime.
This is a do-chala temple with a look almost that of a traditional hut of Bengal.
Vlog on Panchamukhi Shiva Temple
Char Bangla Temples
This is the most famous set of terracotta temples in this region. In terms of design these four temples each have their unique flavor and together makes this place a must-visit destination. These temples are dated around 1755 A.D.
Temple 1
We are going anti-clockwise and this would be the first temple. The best way to identify is the look for the broken wall which is located right behind this temple. On the side, you will find a Shiva seated on a pedestal.
If you are looking for some of the finest terracotta work then this is the temple where you will find them all over the front panels. The panel above the central doorway shows the war in Ramayana with the ten-headed Ravana in a fierce battle with Rama.
All around you will find panels of Durga, Kali, and other goddesses. The lower panels depict battle scenes and don’t be surprised to see some panels wherein the soldiers are carrying rifles.
Temple 2
The second temple also has some terracotta panels but there are not as detailed. This temple has more motifs and flower patterns all around the front. Two rows are leading from one side to the top and then to the other side having panels of God and Goddesses.
Temple 3
This is the simplest in terms of design. Only on top of the doorway, you will find some circular patterns and the rest only plan square embossed terracotta tiles. This looks somewhat incomplete as if the panels were meant to be filled with more designs but were somehow repeated with a similar pattern.
Temple 4
This is very different from the rest three temples out here. By the looks, you can make out the white color finish instead of the red terracotta of the other three temples. This is because this temple has a fine lime plaster and all the designs are etched in these fine layers of plaster. The fine detailed work is something that needs time to be appreciated.
Vlog on Char Bangla Temples
Bhavaniswar Temple
This was also built around the same time as the Char Bangla Temples by Rani Bhavani. Being a devout Shiva follower this is another Shiva temple. The temple has a dome architecture with arched open gateways in all directions. This temple also features a plastered ornamental design instead of red terracotta panels.
Vlog on Bhavaniswar Temple
Two Shiva Temples Next to Rajrajeswari Temple
Within fifty meters from Bhavaniswar Temple is the newly built Durga Temple (Rajrajeswari Temple). Right next to this temple you will find two smaller terracotta temples. These are now in a much-dilapidated state and not worshiped any longer. By the looks of the outer face, it can be made out in some portions that these also had similar lime plaster with ornamental designs.
Vlog on Two Shiva Temples Next to Rajrajeswari Temple
Gangeswar Temple
The next temple is popularly known as the Jor-Bangla temple and this can be attributed to its design. Visually this looks like two temples have been built together sharing a common wall in between them. This is another classic terracotta temple.
The terracotta panels are on one side of the temple and depict various ways of life, daily work, the life of people, battles, and Gods and Goddesses. Watch out for the panels depicting Krishna Leela.
Vlog on Gangeswar Temple
Apart from these, I would recommend you to visit one more temple which originally was a terracotta temple and along with that on that way you can visit Dahapara Dham.
Kiriteswari Temple
This temple is located in Lalbag (Nabagram) and you can visit this while going towards Baranagar from Koshbag. This is a very famous Shakti Peeth. The original terracotta temple was destroyed around 1405 and one can still see the remains of it next to the newly constructed temple where the shrine was moved. All around the temple you can find other newly built shrines.
Vlog on Kiriteswari Temple
Dahapara Dham
Let me make it clear that this is not a terracotta nor does it have historical significance. The reason that I am mentioning it here is this temple will fall on the way and you can just relax and stroll around this newly constructed temple and hear the devotees sing kirtan (religious songs).
Vlog on Dahapara Dham
Location Of These Places on Map
Other Blogs on Murshidabad
Places to visit around Murshidabad
Places to visit around Cossimbazar
Resources
Places To Visit Around Cossimbazar
In my previous blog I have covered Murshidabad so continuing with that series in this blog I am going to cover places to visit around Cossimbazar. Cossimbazar or Kasim Bazar is very near to Murshidabad town and it can be covered within a day along with places to visit around Murshidabad. Cossimbazar mainly covers cemeteries, palaces, rajbari, and churches.
How to Visit Cossimbazar
Most tourist stays at Murshidabad or Berhampore so the best way to visit would be in a Toto (e-rickshaw) or you can come by your vehicle also. A toto would charge somewhere between 500 – 600 Rupees for a round trip from Murshidabad. Usually, there is a fixed syndicate rate but slight negotiations can be done.
The number of tourist spots in Cossimbazar is less thus you can easily combine it with your day trip around Murshidabad.
Where to stay in Cossimbazar
If you are looking for a luxurious experience then do check out the Cossimbazar Choto Rajbari (Palace of the Roys) which has been converted into a luxurious hotel and one can experience both luxury and royalty.
Places to visit around Cossimbazar:-
Armenian Church
This is the only Armenian Church in West Bengal outside of Kolkata. You must be wondering why an Armenian church that too in Cossimbazar? Back then I mean during the Cossimbazar was a hub for European traders and that is the reason why you had the Dutch, Armenian, and English all set up shops here for trade.
Just like in Calcutta the Armenians were traders and merchants and were eager to trade in Bengal with the support of the Nawabs and Cossimbazar being the next town to Murshidabad became their hub.
The actual name of the church is The Holy Virgin Mary Armenian Church of Saidabad. This church was built around 1757 – 1758 by Khoja Petros Arathoon. There is no regular church service out here since there are no Armenians in this part of Bengal anymore. Their population even in Kolkata is dwindling. Service only happens on a rare occasion when members of the Armenian community travel to Murshidabad, especially during the Armenian Christmas that takes place around the 6th of January.
Vlog on Armenian Church
Dutch Cemetery
Similar to the Armenians the Dutch merchants were also active out here. It was easier for them to get direct access to the Nawabs instead of waiting for communication to happen from Calcutta. This small cemetery has around 47 tombs.
The most attractive is the white tomb of Tammerus Canter Visscher which when one compares is a replica of the Tomb of Susanna Anna Maria in Bandel. In reality, it’s the other way round the one in Cossimbazar was built much before the one in Bandel it is believed that Susanna Anna Maria choose this design for herself. Her first husband was the Chief Administrator of Cossimbazar and during that time she had seen this and wanted something similar for herself but on a grander scale.
Vlog on Dutch Cemetery
Cossimbazar Choto Rajbari (Palace of the Roys)
This is also known as the Palace of the Roys and now functions as a museum for tourists as well as a heritage hotel. So, if you want to experience luxury and heritage then this place is very much recommended. The front portion of the palace has been renovated and the front façade is beautifully maintained in pristine white color.
You need to buy a ticket to visit the museum and the guide cost is included in the building. Photography is only allowed outside the building from the front side. However, limited mobile photography is allowed in the back section. No photography is allowed inside the museum.
The museum consists of rooms that have been decorated to what they would have been during the zamindari era. Furniture, bed, porcelain, dress, etc. are all on display. You will be taken on a tour of the back section showing you the temple and the Thakur Dalan.
Vlog on Cossimbazar Choto Rajbari
Old English Cemetery (Residency Cemetery)
This place is also referred to as the Residency Cemetery since during the East India Company days and even after that during the Crown era, there was a huge number of Englishmen living here in Cossimbazar. They had the same motive as the Armenians and the Dutch that is to ensure trade and a quick direct link with the Nawabs.
Especially after the Battle of Plassey a lot of English soldiers and officers were stationed here so at to keep a check on the activities of the Nawabs and to prevent a repeat of what Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah did by marching to Calcutta unchallenged.
These English men were buried out here along with some of their family members. One of the most prominent amongst them is the first wife and daughter of Warren Hastings who back then a British Resident of Murshidabad (back then the capital of Bengal) and later rose to the ranks of Governor-General of the Presidency of Fort William.
Vlog on Old English Cemetery
Cossimbazar Boro Rajbari (Sripur Palace)
The history of this house and the family also has a direct connection with Siraj ud-Daulah. When Siraj ud-Daulah decided to attack Calcutta his first wave consisted of taking over possessions from the English starting from Cossimbazar. Warren Hastings used to work as a clerk at the Cossimbazar factory. During the first wave of attack, Warren Hastings hid in this very place and was sheltered by Krishna Kanta Nandy. He was the grandson of Kali Nath Nandy who had settled here in Cossimbazar. Due to this favor, he was later made Diwan and had given the charge of many Zamindari. This led to the prosperity of the family for generations.
This is also the very building that had hosted the first Bangiya Sahitya Sammelan in 1907 which was attended by Rabindranath Tagore.
Unfortunately, this place is not accessible to tourists and one can only see it from the outside.
Vlog on Cossimbazar Boro Rajbari
Residency Cemetery of Babulbona
This is another cemetery that I recommend one should visit during a trip to Cossimbazar. Geographically this place is located at Berhampore but very near to Cossimbazar and can be easily reached in a toto.
This is a very large cemetery when compared to the Dutch and the Old English Cemetery. This cemetery again has a connection with the Battle of Plassey as after that the East India Company had established a cantonment and apart from Cossimbazar many of them had residence around Berhampore.
This cemetery had tombs of soldiers, officers as well as high-ranking officials. This cemetery was also used for their family members, especially children who had high mortality due to the weather and health conditions.
Some of the most prominent people buried out here in this cemetery are Captain James Skinner (1773), George Thomas (1802), and Henry Creighton (1807). This cemetery has some tall memorial pillars and columns which is very unique and easily stand out. Unfortunately, only a couple of the tombs have tombstones so it’s very difficult to identify the tombs of the three. All of the tombs are numbered so I assume some records can help in associating the names with the tombs.
Vlog on Residency Cemetery of Babulbona
Location Of These Places on Map
Other Blogs on Murshidabad
Places to visit around Murshidabad
Terracotta Temples of Baranagar
Resources
Places to Visit Around Murshidabad
In this blog post, I am going to list down places to visit around Murshidabad. I will not create one mega blog post covering all the places instead will create posts in sections that you can visit. The first post will cover places around central Murshidabad town.
After covering Malda it was obvious for me to cover Murshidabad as this would complete the entire tourist trail with the Islamic history of Bengal and its Nawabs. I am not going into the historical details of these places as most of the information is already available on the net. I have listed down places that you can visit one after the other along with a small brief history of the place.
How To Reach Murshidabad
You can take a train to Murshidabad or drive down in your car. The journey time in the car would vary between 6 to 7 hours in my opinion. So, the best comfortable and cheapest would be to take a train. If you are taking the train then the nearest railhead is Murshidabad.
Where To Stay in Murshidabad
There are many hotels in Murshidabad town itself, however, some also prefer to stay at Berhampore. In that case, you need to get down a few stations before Murshidabad at Berhampore Court. I would suggest Murshidabad as that will reduce your cost of local transportation during sightseeing.
How To Travel Around Murshidabad
If you have got your vehicle then you can always use that but do keep in mind that some places will have parking restrictions due to narrow roads. The best would be to hire a Toto (e-rickshaw) that would charge around 600 – 700 Rupees to take you all the places around Murshidabad. There are no time restrictions and you can take your sweet time going around places.
Mind it that they will cover only this part of the town and will not cross the river for tourist places on the other side of Bhagirathi River. For that, you need to book for one more day costing almost the same covering that part of the district.
Guides at Murshidabad
Trust me when I say this you will find guides at every tourist site here. Some would politely ask you while some will pester on making you believe that without him you will understand nothing. I am not against guides and they mostly will charge around 30 to 50 Rupees for their service. However, I was annoyed when I overheard a so-called tourist guide giving complete fictional stories to tourists.
Places to Visit Around Murshidabad:-
Kathgola Palace
This is located in the northernmost part of the town and would be your first stop. This place requires a ticket for entry as well as for photography. This is a very large property that consists of a palatial home which one can see with the pond in front. Apart from this the property also houses a Jain temple, Hanuman temple, and also a mini zoo.
If you come during the flowering season then you can enjoy the view of the gardens in their full bloom.
You are allowed to visit around the ground floor of the main building which had been converted into a museum but photography inside the building is not allowed. There are various rooms like a billiards room, library, drawing room, and bedroom all decorated in their former glory. This building was built around 1873.
Murshidabad was once the hub for Marwari Jain businessmen who had settled in and around this place seeing the opportunity to trade with the Muslim nawabs as well as the British in later years. Kathgola Palace belongs to the Dugar family belonging to this community of businessmen.
Vlog of Kathgola Palace
House of Jagat Seth
One who has read the history of Bengal will surely know about Jagat Seth. He was a person so rich during his times that even the British (East India Company) took loans from him. The reason he was called Jagat Seth coz it literarily meant that he was the Merchant of the World.
He was also infamously connected with the conspiracy of Mir Jaffar with East India Company for the murder of Siraj ud-Daulah.
The house has now been converted into a museum. You can visit the multiple underground chambers and see different exhibits. This is also a ticketed place and photography inside the museum (house) is not allowed.
Vlog of House of Jagat Seth
Nashipur Rajbari
The next stop is Nashipur Rajbari which looks like a miniature version of Hazarduari Palace. This was built in 1865 by Kirti Chandra Singha Bahadur. You need to buy a ticket to enter this building, any kind of photography with a camera is not allowed however, you can use your mobile phone for photography and videography.
Only the front portion facing the street has been restored and is now converted into a museum. The back portion which comprises the old palace is in ruins.
Vlog of Nashipur Rajbari
Nashipur Akhra and Raghunath Temple
I hugely underestimated this place honestly. As you buy the entrance ticket and enter this place what you see is just an old building that was once occupied by the head of the akhara. But what most people miss is the Raghunath Temple which needs to be accessed through a small doorway. The architecture is simply splendid.
Vlog of Nashipur Akhra and Raghunath Temple
Namak Haram Deorhi
As the name suggests it has everything to do with Mir Jafar. This was once the palace of Mir Jafar but sadly what now remains are just the remains of this grand doorway and some portions of the outer wall. Even though this is a prime tourist attraction it’s still private property so it’s best suggested to see it from the outside and not venture inside.
This place got its name Namak Haram (traitor) since Mir Jafar had betrayed Siraj ud-Daulah by getting him murdered so people started referring to the palace gate as the gateway of the traitor.
Vlog of Namak Haram Deorhi
Jafarganj Cemetery
This is the very cemetery where Mir Jafar is buried and this is also the cemetery that was Mir Jafar himself for his family and dynasty of nawabs from his generations forward. This was more like a family burial ground with many of the next nawabs after Mir Jafar and their wives including immediate family members buried here.
This is an active cemetery and don’t be surprised to see new tombs as recent as a few months.
Vlog of Jafarganj Cemetery
Tomb Of Azimunnisa Begum
Built-in 1734 A.D. by Azimunissa Begum, she was the daughter of Murshid Quili Khan. She was married to Shuja Ud Daula. Nothing much remains of the original mosque except for a portion of the western wall and the raised platform. After her death, she was buried out here and the grave can be seen located below the staircase leading to the raised mosque floor. Approach the site from the left doorway and you can see the grave located below the staircase. This was done in the belief that people will use the staircase and pray for her afterlife.
Vlog of Tomb Of Azimunnisa Begum
Hazarduari Palace
This is the grandest structure in Murshidabad. It’s massive and as the name suggests the building on all sides and even in between has these massive doorways. Built by Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah between 1829 – 1837. This place has now been converted into a museum under the Archaeological Survey0059a30059a3 of India. The museum house various artifacts from the reign of the Nawabs. You can also see the grand durbar halls and other grand rooms.
This is a ticketed monument and photography is not allowed inside the building. Next to the ticket counter, there are lockers where you need to store your bags to visit the museum.
Right opposite Hazarduari Palace is the Nizamat Imambara. Apart from this, there are other structures within the compound like Clock Tower, Bachhawali Tope, and Madina Masjid. On the western side right outside the Hazarduari Palace compound is the Zurud Masjid (Yellow Mosque).
Vlog of Hazarduari Palace
Nizamat Imambara
Located on the same premise as Hazarduari Palace the Nizamat Imambara was originally built by Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah in 1740 A.D. and later it was rebuilt by Nawab Mansur Ali Khan in 1847 after the original structure was destroyed by a fire. This place is out of bound for tourists however one can enter when it’s thrown open to the public during Muharram.
Zurud Masjid (Yellow Mosque)
Popularly known as the yellow mosque is located on the western side of Hazarduari Palace. This is a functioning mosque and entry inside is restricted to anyone else other than Namazi (person coming to offer Namaz).
Tripolia Gate
This grand three-arched gateway was built by Nawab Shuja Khan between 1725 – 1739. It is a single-storied building that has a Nahabat Khana with four minarets on four corners.
Chawk Masjid
This is another functioning mosque where the tourists are restricted. This mosque was founded by Munny Begum the wife of Mir Jafar in 1767 A.D.
Vlog of Tripolia Gate & Chawk Masjid
Dakhin Darwaza
This is a smaller gate than the Tripolia Gate. As the name suggests this is the south gate of what was once the Kila Nizamat.
Ghari Ghanta
This is located next to Dakhin Darwaza and the bell can still be seen hanging. Locals say that the bell used to rung to demarcate clock hours.
Vlog of Dakhin Darwaza & Ghari Ghanta
Safaid Masjid
This is another small mosque similar to that of Zurud Masjid (Yellow Mosque) located right next to the river bank.
Wasif Manzil
The original palace was destroyed during the earthquake of 1897 and was rebuilt. The original structure was built by Nawab Wasif Ali Mirza Khan. The palace has a garden in front with a non-functioning fountain and marble statues.
Vlog of Wasif Manzil & Safaid Masjid
Fauti Masjid
To reach this place we have to travel towards Katara Masjid and we need to cross the railway line. Right after crossing the railway tracks this mosque which now is in ruins can be seen on the left. It was built in the year 1740 A.D. by Nawab Sarfaraz Khan. The legend goes that this mosque was built overnight. The nawab could not however see the completion as he was killed in the battle with Nawab Alvardi Khan. The mosque is in a state which looks incomplete. Since the death of the Nawab, the mosque is called “Faut” signifying a death in battle.
Vlog of Fauti Masjid
Katra Masjid
This is indeed a grand structure and it has its charm and architectural beauty. This grand mosque was built in 1723 by Nawab Murshid Kuli Khan from whom the town gets its name Murshidabad. The Nawab himself is buried here and his tomb can be found under the staircase on the eastern side.
Vlog of Katra Masjid
Jahan Kosha Cannon
When translated this means the “Destroyer of the World” Cannon. Originally this cannon was placed on a carriage with wheels but those have disappeared over time but the cannon remains as it is. Weighing more than 7 tons this cannon was set to have been built by Subadar Islam Khan during the reign of Shah Jahan in 1637 A.D.
Vlog of Jahan Kosha Cannon
Motijheel Masjid
This is another functional mosque located right next to the entrance of Motijheel Park. Built-in 1750 by Nawab Nawaei Muhammad Khan. The nawab himself is buried in the mosque compound along with his adopted son Ekramulla. Ekramulla was the biological son of Amina Begum thus he was the own brother of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah.
Motijhil Park
Historically Motijhil was an artificial lake built by Nawazish Muhammad Khan. Water from Bhagirathi was diverted to feed the lake. The lake was built like a horseshoe and had a palatial building in the center. Nothing of that remains, now it has been developed as a park. In the evening you get to see light and sound shows depicting the life of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah.
This is a ticketed park with restrictions on video photography but still, photographs are allowed. Apart from gardens, you can also enjoy boating in the artificial lakes.
Usually, Toto drivers will cover these places in one day as per the day-wise trip. There are other tourist places in Cossimbazar and on the other side of Bhagirathi River comprising Koshbagh (Khushbagh) which is the last resting place of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah and Nawab Aliverdi Khan etc., Rosnaiganj which has the Tomb of Nawab Shuja Uddin Khan and temples of Baranagar.
There will be two separate tours one covering Cossimbazar and the other covering the other side of the river. The above-mentioned tourist places and Cossimbazar can be done in a single day and the next day covering the tourist places on the other side of the river.
Koshbagh
This is located on the other side of the Bhagirathi River and if you are covering this place with a Toto then they will cross the river on motorized country boats. Two large wooden boats are joined together with bamboo and humans and small vehicles like Toto and motorcycles directly get up on these makeshift bamboo platforms and take the 2 to 3-minute journey across the river. You need to pay for the river crossing (both ways for the toto).
Koshbagh is the last resting place of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah, Nawab Aliverdi Khan, and other family members of that dynasty.
As you enter the first raised platform you will find the last resting place of the tomb of Amina Begum, mother of Siraj ud-Daulah, and the tomb of Ghaseti Begum, the eldest daughter of Alivardi Khan. The covered building after that houses the tomb of Nawab Alivardi Khan in the center, on the right is the tomb of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah and just below his tomb is the tomb of Lutfunnisa Begum, wife of Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah.
Vlog of Koshbagh
Rosnaiganj
This place had the tomb of Shuja Uddin Khan. He was the son-in-law of Murshid Quli Khan. He had married two of his daughters and became the Nawab after the death of Murshid Quli Khan.
Vlog of Rosnaiganj
Location Of These Places on Map
Other Blogs on Murshidabad
Places to visit around Cossimbazar
Terracotta Temples of Baranagar
Resources
Places To Visit Around Pandua, Malda
The next blog after Gour has to be on Pandua as this is where you will find the next set of mosques. So let’s explore places to visit around Pandua, Malda.
How to Reach Pandua
Pandu is located north of Malda and takes some time to reach. Unlike Gour, this place has just two functioning Dargah and three ancient mosques. But do keep in mind that the final mosque on the list and the last stoppage will be Adina which is huge and takes time to cover.
It’s around 19 kilometers north of Malda and the best way is to book a car. The route passes through a multilane highway and thus won’t take that long. Please discuss the rates for a car covering all these locations before your journey. The driver or the agency must be clear about the number of stops. If you want to include Jagjivanpur then inform them about the distance which will be around 50 Km from Adna each way.
Ideally, start early so that you can cover Pandua and from there go to Jagjivanpur to see the ruins of a Buddhist monastery.
Short History of Pandua
Before the prominence of the Gour, it was Pandua the capital of Bengal under the Muslim rulers.
In history, we get its mention after Shamsuddin Ilyas Shah defeated Alauddin Ali Shah in 1345. Back then this place was referred to as Hazrat Pandua. Some historians suggest that Pandua was the capital even during the reign of Alauddin Ali Shah as there are coins dating back to 1342 AD stating that. Back that Pandua was also known as Firuzabad.
Capital was shifted from Pandua back to Gour by Nasiruddin Mahmud Shah (1442 – 1459). It is to be noted that Gour (Gauda) previously was the capital during the early Hindu rule of this region. One of the main reasons sighted for the shift was the shifting of the main water flow of the Ganges.
Unlike Gour where we see several mosques only a few remain here today in Pandua. Historically speaking there were also other mosques in this region but none of them could be ever seen again.
Location of all Tourist Places in Pandu on Map
Please keep this map handy and use this for navigation.
Tourist Places in Pandua
Before proceeding to Pandua from Malda, I will request you to take a short detour to Nimasarai to see the remains of an ancient Minar (tower).
Nimasarai Minar (Tower)
This tower is located at a spot where the Kalindi River meets the Mahananda River. Said to be built around the 16th century could have been a watchtower. The word Nim which in Persian would mean half and this tower is indeed almost halfway between Gour and Pandua. And the word Sarai indicates a place for resting so this could have well been a halfway resting point for travelers traveling between the two places.
There are spikes carved out of stone to look like elephant tusks and this could have very well been ornamental but word of mouth passed from one generation to another tells that severed heads of enemies would be hung from these spikes as a sign of warning.
This tower was severely damaged in a lightning strike after which it has been repaired and one with prior permission can climb up to the top from there you can get a panoramic view of the village and the river. This place is located near Malda Railway Station and after this, you need to proceed towards Pandua for the rest of the sites.
Nimasarai Minar Vlog
Bari Dargah
Note: This is an active religious place thus your attire should be appropriate
This Dargah is in memory of Hazrat Shah Jalal Tabrizi. This shrine historians believe was constructed by Sultan Alauddin Ali Shah around 1342 AD. At the moment you can see the main mosque, tombs, grand kitchen, and several other rooms around the compound.
A little further down there is another structure known as Salami Darwaza (Saluting Gate) ironically not built like any Islamic structure instead resembles a Charchala temple.
Choti Dargah
Note: This is an active religious place thus your attire should be appropriate
Very near Salami Darwaza, there is another Dargah. Hazrat Nur Qutbul Alam who died in 1415 AD was active at a time when this region was getting very volatile. Even with a majority Muslim population, two Hindu kings had ruled this region.
He was the one who had converted (Jadu) Jalaluddin Mohammad Shah the son of Raja Ganesh to Islam. This Dargah was constructed after his death.
Bari Dargah and Choti Dargah Vlog
Eklakhi Mausoleum
This is the first heritage structure (Under ASI) that we see at Pandua. Its located very near Choti Dargah. This is a single dome mausoleum built-in classic terracotta brick style. As the name suggests it took one lakh Rupees (1,00,000) to build this structure back then. The structure contains three tombs are that of Sultan Jalaluddin (Jadu), his wife, and his son (Ahmad Shah). The structure is dated to be constructed around 1412 – 1415 AD.
Qutb Shahi Masjid
This mosque is located right behind Eklakhi Mausoleum and to reach this you have to go through the back gate which will take you to Qutb Shahi Masjid.
This mosque is also known by its other name “Sona Masjid” due to the gold-gilded walls and turret crowns. Built in 1582 AD this mosque was built to honor Nur Qutub-Ul-Alam by Makhdum Shaikh.
Eklakhi Mausoleum and Qutb Shahi Masjid Vlog
Adina Masjid
This is the most famous mosque in this entire region and its massive. Make sure you have at least one hour dedicated if not more to get to see all around the ruins of this great mosque.
This is considered the largest mosque in the whole of Bengal. It was built by Sultan Sikandar Shah between 1364 and 1374 AD. The Sultan later after his death was buried here. This mosque has a large rectangular open courtyard that is surrounded by domed structures. None of the domed structures are visible but the walls still stand.
There is an elevated lady’s section which has a separate entrance and this once had an elevated floor made of rock slabs. Some of them are still very much visible while the rest of them have been replaced by a wooden platform. There are three mihrabs at the gallery.
The main mihrab is very much seen right next to the western section right next to the main entrance from the western wall.
A lot of the raw materials used in the construction of this mosque had come from Hindu temples and the remains of them can still be seen with random pieces of Hindu gods and goddesses visible.
Take as much time as it takes as this is a fairly large structure and would take some time to see in detail.
Adina Mosque Vlog
Resources
Memoirs Of Gaur and Pandua by H. E. Stapleton
Financial Chronicle
Other Blogs on Malda
Places To Visit Around Gour, Malda
If you are planning to visit Gour & Pandua then this blog post would be the perfect guide. I will be posting two blogs about these places. This blog will focus on places to visit around Gour, Malda. All the places that you can visit including details and the perfect shortest route to cover all places. In my next blog, I will cover Pandua in the same manner. Malda is the virtual center point with Gour to the south and Pandua to the north.
How To Reach Gour & Pandua
The best place to make your base camp to visit both places would be Malda. There is a railway station at Gour but it’s a very small station with no hotels nearby. It’s somewhat isolated thus best be avoided.
I would suggest that you book a car for two days. Day one you can cover Gour and day two you can cover Pandua along with Jagjivanpur. Please fix the rates of the trip with the car agency or driver and make sure you specify and he is completely clear about the places that he would go.
For sure the driver will not know the location of all these places thus I would urge you to use the google map provided in this blog to guide him or to share it with him for navigation. I have chalked out the route so that you can cover the most places in the shortest amount of time.
I would suggest that you start early around 7 – 8 AM so that you can cover most of the places which do not have shade in the early hours before the heat of the sun kicks in. If you are not comfortable leaving early then leave post-lunch and make sure you start your return journey by 4 – 4.30 PM.
Where To Stay at Malda
At Malda you will find several hotels and I will personally recommend the Hotel Amrapali which is run by West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation. If you are taking a Toto (e-rickshaw) from the Malda station then please tell them to take you to Malda Tourist Lodge as this is what it was known earlier. This hotel has a parking space also so if you are coming by car or motorcycle, you can park here. This place has an attached restaurant and serves good food at affordable rates. Booking needs to be done online and remember that the GST needs to be paid at the hotel.
Another hotel which the locals recommend is Hotel Indraprastha.
Short History of Malda
I will not go deep into this as there are many resources readily available online if you want in-depth knowledge of this place.
The location of Malda is around the middle of Bengal thus making it an ideal capital for rulers ruling this part of India. The most prominent king under whom Bengal reached its pinnacle of success was Shashanka. Previously these parts of Bengal were under The Later Guptas and Shashanka managed to liberate and establish the Gauda Kingdom. It is from Gauda that we get the name Gour. He established his capital at Karnasubarna where you can still see some remains at Murshidabad.
Shashanka ruled Bengal from 590 – 625 AD and after his death, his son Manava could only hold on to the throne for a mere 8 months before being deposed by Harshavardhana. Shashanka was a devout Hindu king who helped to propagate the religion. There are records that he had ordered to cut down the Bodhi tree as he opposed other religious beliefs.
After this, we get the Pala Dynasty which dominated these parts of Bengal. Gopala was the first emperor of this dynasty which found its root in Gauda around 750 AD. Their rule lasted till 1161 AD.
This was followed by the Sena (Sen) Dynasty from 1070 AD. Ballala Sena was the most famous of them all to have conquered Gauda from the Palas. You can still find the foundation of the house of Ballal Sen at Gour. The Senas ruled Bengal till around 1230 AD.
It was during the Sena Dynasty that Muhammad bin Bakhtiyar Khilji had attacked this part of Bengal in 1203 AD and plundered it of its riches. The Sena ruler Lakshmana Sena retreated from Gauda and went towards the east. During the rule of Lakshmana Sena Guada was also known as Laksh-manadvati which later due to verbal corruption became Laknauti.
From this point on we see the Islamic rule of Bengal till the arrival of the East India Company and subsequent Muslim nawabs under the control of the company.
The Khalji rulers of Bengal (1203–1227).
Governors of Bengal under the Mamluk dynasty (1227–1287)
Independent Balban dynasty of Lakhnauti (1287–1324)
Governors of Bengal under the Tughlaq dynasty (1324–1338)
Independent Sultans of Bengal during the Tughlaq dynasty (1338–1352)
Ilyas Shahi dynasty (1352–1414)
House of Raja Ganesha (1414–1435)
Restored Ilyas Shahi dynasty (1435–1487)
Habshi rule (1487–1494)
Hussain Shahi dynasty (1494–1538)
Governors of Bengal under Sur Empire (1532–1556)
Muhammad Shah dynasty (1554–1564)
Karrani dynasty (1564–1576)
Mughal Subahdars of Bengal Subah (1574–1717)
Independent Nawabs of Bengal (1717–1757 CE)
Nawabs of Bengal under East India Company (1757–1838 CE)
Thus, if you look at the past a vast section of the history at later stages and even under the East India Company there were Muslim rulers of Bengal. This is the very reason when you will travel around Gour you can see such an impressive collection of terracotta and stone mosques. In fact, in some of the mosques, you will find remains of earlier temple-like door jams or panels. This is the reason why you do not find any remains of earlier temples or Buddhist stupas around this part of Bengal. Jagjivanpur which is a Buddhist site has been discovered very recently.
Location Of Tourist Places Around Gour on Map
Please follow this route to cover all tourist places around Gour.
List of Tourist Places Around Gour
(Two Stone Pillars) Hathi Badha Stombho
If you are coming from Malda then this would be on your left side right next to the main road. You will spot a fenced spot with two lone standing pillars. People refer to this as Hathi Bandha Stombho which literarily means pillars where elephants are tied. By its design, it is similar to the architectural style of the pillars that you will find in the mosques later.
Vlog of (Two Stone Pillars) Hathi Badha Stombho
Ramkeli
Stepping aside from the Islamic history of Gour this is a very significant Hindu pilgrimage site. You have two temples out here the first smaller one being Chaitanya Charan Mandir and the other being Madan Mohan Jiu Temple.
Historically Ramkeli has a big significance as Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu had come to this place. The small temple has a stone slab that has footprints that are said to be that of Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. Every year there is a big festival that takes place and devotees from all over Bengal come here to celebrate.
Boro Sona Masjid (Baraduari)
From this point onwards we will start seeing heritage sites from the Muslim rule of Gauda. The first one being Boro Sona Masjid or Baraduari. boro means big and Sona in Bangla means gold so it refers to this as the big golden mosque. This mosque once had 44 domes that had gold gilded tops. Now, much of it is in ruins you get to see only the front portion of the mosque which still has the domes intact. Two doorways are still visible while the third one is in ruins. This temple is also known as Baraduari or the mosque with twelve doors but if you count you will find only eleven doors.
The mosque was built in 1526 by Nasiruddin Nusrat Shah but was originally started by his father Allaudin Husain Shah.
Vlog of Ramkeli and Boro Sona Masjid
Dakhil Darwaza (Salami Darwaza)
The next of the stop very near to Boro Sona Masjid is Dakhil Darwaza. This impressive gateway is to the north of the citadel and is set to be built by Barbak Shah (1459 – 1474 AD). This gateway is also known as Salami Darwaza which means saluting gateway.
The structure has details terracotta works and make sure you pass through the gate and go to the other side of the gate as that is equally beautiful. The interior chambers inside the gate are infested with bats so stick to the main hallway and avoid venturing inside the side rooms.
Firoz Minar
This tower was built by Saifuddin Firoz Shah (1486 – 1489) after his victory over Barbak Shah. The tower has five stories and is on a mound with spiral staircases inside which is not accessible to tourists. The height of the tower reached up to 25.60 meters.
Vlog of Dakhil Darwaza and Firoz Minar
Kadam Rasul Masjid
This mosque was built by Sultan Nasrat Shah in 1531 AD details of which are mentioned in an inscription on the black basalt slab located on the back of the main entrance.
The mosque earlier had the footprints of the Prophet but that now has been moved to Mahidpur which stays with the Khadim.
Apart from the main structure, there are some tombs and the remains of a rest house which is in ruins. The main mosque has a single dome surrounded by four minarets on each side. There is another structure inside the compound of the mosque is the Tomb of Fateh Khan (1658 – 1707). The design of this structure is similar to any Hindu Charchala temple. Fateh Khan son of Dilawar Khan was the general of Aurangzeb. Aurangzeb had sent him to kill Saint Shah Naimtullah as he was suspected to have advised Sultan Shuja to rebel against him. Fateh Khan vomited blood and died on this very spot.
Lukochuri Darwaja (Sahi Darwaza)
Located right next to Kadam Rasul Masjid is another gate which is known as Lukochuri Darwaja (Sahi Darwaza). This gate is located in the south of the citadel of Gouda.
This is a double-storied gateway set to have built by Shah Shuja in 1655. The gate has a flat roof with space for drummers (Naqqar Khana) who would play on the arrival of any royal. The design a typical of Mughal architecture.
The word Lukochuri means the game of hide & seek so there is a saying that the king used to play hide and seek with his queens here at this gate. This probably is an exaggeration as to why would a king leave his grand house and come to a small gate to play with his near and dear ones.
Vlog on Kadam Rasul Masjid & Lukochuri Darwaza
Chika (Chamkan) Masjid
Built around 1450 the mosque or some debate it to be a mausoleum got its name for the numerous bats that infested this structure. It’s a single domed structure and inside you get a lot of structures that have come from an earlier Hindu temple.
At one point this mosque was also used as a prison by Sultan Hussain Shah (1493 – 1519).
Gumti Darwaza
This is another gateway located almost parallel to Lukochuri Darwaja (Sahi Darwaza) but to visit this you have to enter through Chika Masjid. This is size is much smaller and once had the outer face covered with colorful enameled tiles. Some of these tiles are still very much visible around the structure.
Vlog on Chika Masjid & Gumti Darwaza
Baisgazi Wall
This massive wall was built by Barbak Shah around 1460 to protect the palaces. To reach this place you go through the mango orchards and cross the big water tanks beyond which you will see several sections of this wall still standing. While some portions are in bad shape some have remarkably survived the test of time.
The walls are tapper from bottom to top, the base has a width of around 15 feet which tapers to 9 feet at the top. A portion of the wall has been restored to what it had actually looked and this can be seen right next to Ballal Bati which is our next destination.
Vlog on Baisgazi Wall
Ballal Bati
At the beginning of this post, I have shared a timeline and you can see when Gouda was ruled by the Sena (Sen) Dynasty. Ballal Sen (1160 – 1179) was the one who had captured the Gauda from the Pala. Recent excavation of this section led to the discovery of the foundation which the archaeologist says was the grand house of Ballal Sen. However, another set of historians believe this to be the foundation of a Buddhist monastery something similar which you can also see at Jagjivanpur.
Within fifty meters of Ballal Bati, one can see the section of the Baisgazi Wall which has been restored.
Jahaj Ghat
As the name suggests this was a river jetty and back then it is believed that the Ganges used to flow right next to it. This was a trading point for ships to come and dock. Not much of the structure remains but by its topography, it can be easily be figured out that it was once leading to the river.
Vlog on Ballal Bati & Jahaj Ghat
Chamkati Masjid
Now we come out from the mango orchards back to the main road where we will find Chamkati Masjid. It is said to have been built in 1475 by Sultan Shamsuddin Yusuf Shah. This is a single domed mosque with a veranda with three entrances. The name Chamkati according to some refers to the social caste of Muslims who were skin (cham) cutters (kati).
Tantipara Masjid
As the name suggests this mosque was for the Muslim weaver community. Constructed in 1480 by Mirshad Khan the mosque structure comprises 10 domes in a 5 X 5 pattern.
Vlog on Chamkati Masjid & Tantipara Masjid
Lottan Masjid
A little further down from Tantipara mosque we get Lottan Masjid. The mosque was built by Sultan Yusuf Shah in 1475 as a tribute to a royal courtesan. The mosque still has some visible colorful tiles on its outer walls. It has a single large dome and the floors inside have colored tiled mosaics.
Gunamanta Masjid
This is the last mosque in this series at Gour in India, there are a few more such mosques but they are now across the border in Bangladesh. Keep in mind that we are very near to the border now as you can see from the map. This mosque was built by Sultan Jalaluddin Fath Shah in 1484. The 24 domed mosque consists of a vaulted central nave along with three aisles and four openings.
Vlog on Lottan Masjid & Gunamanta Masjid
Kotwali Darwaza
This is the border between India and Bangladesh. This structure is in no man’s land and if you look down a portion of the wall further down is on the other side of the border.
When you reach this place, you need to first take permission from the BSF check post where you have to deposit an ID card like Aadhar, Driving Licence, etc. After that do inform that you are going to click photographs and proceed to visit the structure.
This is not a mosque but a massive wall. The wall along with the gateway (which does not exist now as it had collapsed) is 30 feet high and has a thickness of 16 feet. It is said that this was constructed somewhere between 1235 and 1315 (during the death of Mohammed Alauddin Khalji).
Vlog on Kotwali Darwaza
This concluded the tour of Gour in my next blog I will cover the north of Malda i.e. Pandua.
Resources
Archaeological Survey of India – Kolkata Circle
The ruins of Gour described and represented in eighteen views by Henry Creighton
Tourism in India by Vijay Kumar Gupta
Geographical Dictionary Of Ancient And Mediaeval India by Nundo Lal Dey
Times of India
Other Blogs on Malda
Taki and Golpata Forest
I always wanted to visit the border between India and Bangladesh. The quickest option for this would be a quick drive to Taki and Golpata Forest. Unfortunately, I never found time to do this trip even after so many years. A month back on a Saturday morning I woke up late around 10 AM and decided to go someplace on my motorcycle. Within 30 minutes I was on my motorcycle with no plan in mind I kept driving east until I reached the junction of E. M. Bypass and Basanti Highway. I looked up and saw the signboard, if I go straight and take left then I will reach Basanti and then Sundarban and if I keep driving straight past Malancha I will reach Taki.
Now Taki is something which I always wanted to visit so I started riding straight towards Malancha. It was a straight road and one would not need a mobile app for navigation. After more than an hour, I reached Malancha and took the left over the bridge crossing the Bidyadhari River. This river had always fascinated me coz historically this river played a major role in trade and commerce for the whole Bengal plain in the historic past.
What To See at Taki?
It took me a little more than two hours to reach Taki. Now Taki has many picnic spots as well as a viewpoint. These two are located a little far from each other. The picnic spots are right on the banks of the river usually managed by local clubs or property owners who rent these out for a picnic. They will charge you a fixed amount to use the property and other services.
If you are going there as an individual or as a family then it’s better to go towards the Taki View Point. There you will find many paid parking spots where you can park your vehicle and enjoy the scenic beauty of the Ichamati River which divides India and Bangladesh in the middle.
Where To Eat at Taki?
At View Point, you can also find several restaurants where you can grab a quick bite or have a full meal. The cost varies so check out the menu first before placing your order. Overall, I found the cost of food very economical.
Where To Stay at Taki?
Most of the hotels and resorts are located around Taki View Point. You can either book it online using popular hotel booking websites or come and book here directly at the reception. Keep in mind that this place is a very popular weekend destination thus I will always recommend you to book in advance especially on extended holiday weekends.
Most of the hotels out here have limited car parking facilities so make sure you confirm with the property on its availability if you are traveling by your car.
Boat Rides at Taki
You can rent out a boat for a sunset ride along the Indian side of the river. These are motorized boats and take you for a round trip to Golpata Forest and Mohana (river confluence). Boat rates are fixed per vehicle and they have a limit on the maximum number of passengers per boat. So, either you book the boat as a whole or share it with someone to reduce cost.
All the boats on the Indian side will have the Indian flag on them, the same applied to Bangladeshi boats which fly their flag. This is done so that the Border Security Forces guarding the border can keep track of movements.
Durga Puja Season at Taki
This is the time when the most number of tourists visit this place. One of the main reasons is the immersion ceremony on Dasami. There is a tradition that boats from India and boats from Bangladesh bring in their idol to be immersed in the middle of the river. People on the Indian boats and Bangladesh boats come next to each other to exchange greetings.
How to Reach Golpata Forest?
This was the most exciting trip for from during my day trip to Taki. Around 5 kilometers from Taki View Point, you have another tourist spot. Golpata Forest is often referred to as Mini Sundarban and one can experience the mangrove forest on a smaller scale.
The roads leading from Taki View Point towards Golpata Forest are very narrow and I would recommend that instead of coming in your car you park your vehicle at one of the numerous paid parking spots there at Taki View Point and take a Toto (e-rickshaw) and visit this place. Book the Toto for a return journey including the waiting time. If you prefer taking your vehicle then there are paid parking spots available outside Golpata Forest.
You have to pass through a BSF check post to reach Golpata Forest. It’s mandatory to have some form of national ID like an Aadhar Card, Voter ID card, Passport, Driving License which you need to submit at the BSF check post.
The BSF personnel will assign a number to your ID card and you are to remember that while returning you have to mention that number for them to search and return it.
Keep in mind that every individual is required to submit their ID card, even if you are traveling as a group or family every person should submit their ID card. The reason you need to do this is that Golpata Forest and the adjoining villages have very close proximity to Bangladesh land. At one point during low tide, the distance is less than 150 meters. This is the last checkpoint on the Indian side and BSF personnel does not operate inside the village or Golpata Forest area. Thus, at the end of the day, they would want to make sure that any tourists coming in is leaving back.
No outside vehicles are allowed beyond the BSF check post. Once you cross it you can either walk around 1 Kilometer to Golpata Forest or take a shared motorized van. The walk is a real short one taking you past village houses and if it’s not the peak of summer or you have some issues in walking it can be easily done.
What to See at Golpata Forest?
As I said earlier this place is known as Mini Sundarban and this place is a mangrove forest. It is difficult to walk inside any mangrove forest as they would be either half-submerged underwater or if the water recedes during low tide then the place will be muddy and walking on them is just not possible.
At Golpata Forest, however, the authorities have constructed a concrete bridge in a labyrinth manner taking you around the forest so that you can enjoy nature and do not have to walk on slushy mud or knee-deep water. You get to enjoy the surroundings from a safe height.
There is also a watchtower that is still under construction and from the top, you get a very good panoramic view of the forest.
The reason why this place is called Golpata Forest is due to the several Golpata trees (Nypa fruticans) that surround this small area.
The entry fee for this place is Rs. 10 which needs to be paid at the entrance. You can ideally spend around an hour exploring this place.
How to Reach Taki?
By car or motorcycle, the quickest way to reach Taki from Kolkata is to use the Basanti Expressway which goes via Malancha. You can also reach Taki using Kolkata – Basirhat Road but that road condition is not good for a smooth and quick journey.
If you are taking a local train from Sealdah North then take any train to Hasanabad. From outside the station, you can take a Toto to reach Taki.
There are also many buses departing from Esplanade going towards Basirhat and Hasnabad which you can avail.
Location of Taki and Golpata Forest on Map
Taki & Golpata Vlog
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Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque – Saptagram
I have been traveling to Basberia, Bandel since childhood and never gave any attention to the numerous terracotta temples that line the street from the station to my cousin’s house. Much later when I started blogging did, I realize the importance of terracotta when it came to temples and even mosques. I just returned from a long Gour & Pandua trip so there I had seen many terracotta mosques let me start that series with one which has history and also is very near to Kolkata. Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque in Adisaptagram (Satgaon) has a history that tells us a lot about this region and its Islamic past.
To understand this what I have done in this blog is to have a section dedicated to the association of Adisaptagram and its Islamic rulers so that you can get a better perspective of things and their importance.
Islamic Rule of This Region
We are getting the first glimpse of the Islamic rule of this region due to another heritage site that of Zafar Khan Ghazi Dargah. We roughly get a date of 1298 A.D. for the construction of the mosque out there which is very well documented in the inscription on black basalt rock slabs. The distance between Tribeni and Adisaptagram (Satgaon) is not much thus it can be easily assumed that the influence and rules had already spread to these parts.
These regions were mostly ruled by governors appointed by a king. Satgaon and its importance came to light as this place got its importance from the mint that was churning out coins. We get old coins dated as early as 1329 which have been minted at Satgaon.
During the reign of Mohammad bin Tughlaq (1325 – 1351) the governorship of Satgaon was placed at the hands of Azam-ul-Mulk Izzuddin Yahya.
Post this period around 1358 most of the provinces in Bengal came under the direct rule of Sikander Shah (1358 – 1390).
For a brief period even though the majority of the population of mid-Bengal were Muslims a Hindu ruler known as Raja Ganesh started ruling this region (1409 – 1415). Things did not go well and he was attacked by the neighboring Muslim rulers, he reached a compromise by allowing his son Jalal-ud- din Muhammad Shah (1415-1430) to convert to Islam and rule this region.
Barbak Shah (son of Mahmud Shah I) was the governor of Satgaon around 1456.
Hussain Shah became the governor of Satgaon around (1493 – 1520). It was continued to be governed by his descendants till Mahmud Shah III who was overthrown in 1536 by the Sher Shah.
Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque
It was during this time that Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque was constructed. The exact dates can be figured out from the inscriptions on the black basalt rock slabs.
The confusion of dates in various publications is due to the presence of long black basalt rock inscriptions which might have been transported here after the original mosque where these were installed initially had collapsed.
Historians who had visited this mosque around the early 20th century confirm the presence of one rectangular basalt inscription on the wall while three (two long and one rectangular with the middle portion missing) were placed inside the old mosque resting on the walls.
During the restoration process, a lot of things have moved, if you read an older first-hand account of this mosque then it talks about a wall surrounding the enclosure of the tombs. Unfortunately, those don’t exist any longer and those stones with inscriptions were placed around the tomb.
So, for dating the mosque it’s a general approach to consider the one installed on the mosque wall
God has said, ‘That man will build, &c,” [Quran IX., 18).
The prophet has said, ‘He who builds for God a mosque in the world, will have seventy castles built for him by God in Paradise.’
This Jami Masjid was built in the reign of the just king, Abdul Muzaffar Nucrah (Nusrat) Shah, the Sultan, son of Hussain Shah the Sultan, the descendant of Husain, by the worthy Sayyid Jamal Din Husain*, son of Sayyid Fakhruddin of Amul, the asylum of the Sayyids, and glory of the descendants of Taha [the prophet], – may God preserve him in the world and the faith, – during the blessed month of Ramzan, 936 (May, 1529).
* Sayed Jamaluddin
Thus, from the above inscription is it very clear who built this mosque and when it was built. Amul if you search on the map will correspond to Amol a city in Mazandaran Province of Iran located very near to the Caspian Sea.
What to See at Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque?
From the main road, you will be easily able to spot this mosque. As you approach you will find three tombs in a separate section to your left and a terracotta mosque in the front.
The three tombs on the left are that of Sayyid Fakhrud-Din, his wife, and his eunuch. The largest tomb is that of Sayyid Fakhrud-Din, the next smallest one is that of his wife and the last one is that of his eunuch.
One can question why a eunuch would be buried along with the noble then one has to see it in historical context. It was a tradition to employ eunuchs at harems and for helping the women of the house as they were found safe to safeguard the modesty of the women in the family.
I am assuming here that I have rightly identified which translation belongs to which one. If you find any mistakes, please feel free to get in touch with me.
There is a rectangular rock with an inscription on the tomb of Sayyid Fakhrud-Din is in Arabic.
God has said, “that man will build the mosques of God who beloves in Him and the last day, and performs the daily prayers and gives the alms demanded by the law, and fears no one except God. Such perhaps belong to those that are guided [Quran IX, 18]
And He whose glory is glorious and whose benefits are general, has also said ‘The mosques belong to God. Worship no one else besides God.’ [Quran LXXII, 18]
The prophet (upon whom he peace) has said, ‘He who builds for God a mosque in this world will have a house built for him by God in Paradise’.
(* * * two lines broken and illegible) [of him who is strengthened]
by proof and testimony, the refuge of Islam and the Moslems, Naciruddin Abdul Muzaffar Hussain Shah, the Sultan.
May God perpetuate his reign and rule, and elevate his state and dignity.
This mosque was built by the great, exalted, and honored Khan who has the title of Tarbiyat Khan. May God preserve him from the misfortunes of the end of time by His benevolence and perfect grace.
In the year 861 (1457)
It is very obvious as I said earlier that these slabs have come from some other mosques and were placed here. Some historians have insisted that this is the actual name of this mosque and this is the actual date of construction.
In front of the three tombs are two long black basalt stone that has an inscription and another one rectangular with a somewhat triangular cut section in between. The two long stones were initially kept resting in a slanting position on the walls inside the tomb section. Post restoration these have just been placed in front of tombs along with the square one with hole.
One of them is in Arabic.
God has said, ‘ The mosques, &c.’ [Quran, LXXII, 18.]. And the prophet (may peace be upon him!) has said, ‘ He who builds a mosque on earth will have a castle built for him by God in Paradise’.
This mosque was built during the reign of the just and liberal king Jalal-ucldin Abul Muzaffar Fat h Shah, the Sultan, son of Mahmud the Sultan, may God perpetuate his reign!
The builder of this noble and great mosque is the Lord of the sword and the pen, Ulugh Majlis Nur, commander and Vazir of the district of Sajla Mankhbad, and the town known as Simlabad, and Commandant of the Thanah Laobla, and Mihrbak, District and Mahall (Perganah) of Hadigar, — may God preserve him in both worlds!
Dated 4th Muharram, 892, [1st January, 1487.]. Written by the humble servant Akhund Malik.
And the next one is in Persian.
God has said, — ‘O ye that believe, when the call to prayer is heard on Fridays, hasten to the worship of God, and give up buying and selling. This is good for ye, if ye did believe.’ [Quran, LXIL, 9]. Legacies are not to be taken possession of. The prophet, may God’s blessing rest upon him, has said —, ‘ When thou goest out of thine house, and it be Friday, thou art a Muhajir (companion of Muhammad’s flight); and shouldst thou die on the road, thou wilt be in Paradise, in the highest.’ And the prophet has also said, — ‘He who wrongly takes possession of the property of a mosque and legacies, acts as if he committed adultery with his daughter and his mother and his sister/ The mosques belong to legacies * * * (illegible) — the light of his countenance on the day of resurrection will be like that of the full moon. (Persian). This Jami Masjid was built during the reign of the just and perfect Sultan, Abul Muzaffar Sultan Nucrah Shah, son of Husain Shah, the descendant of Husain, — may God perpetuate his rule — by the refuge of Sayyidship, Sayyid Jamalud din Husain, son of Sayyid Fakhruddin of Amul, during the month of Ramazan, 936. [May, A. D. 1529]. Because the Mullas and Zamiudars (Arab), if defrauding legacies, are overtaken by the curse of God it is the earnest (bajane) duty of governors and qazis, to prevent such frauds, so that on the day of resurrection they may not be caught in their wicked deeds.
There are two more inscriptions on the corner of the tombs on the northeast side.
The main terracotta brick mosque is now present in the roofless form. I have already discussed the Arabic inscription which helps us in dating this mosque. Only some sections of the original ornamental decorations remain still visible after the restoration. The original design had minarets on each side but only one on the back is still visible on the northwest side.
Inside on the west wall, one can see three niches. The left and the middle one is large and of the same size while the one on the extreme right is smaller. Right next to the middle niche one can see a few flights of stairs, these were used by the imams for preaching on Jumma (Friday Prayers).
In the middle of the mosque, you can see remains of basalt rock pillars which once would have supported the roofs. You can see some of these scattered on the north-east side on the property.
How to Reach Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque
This place is around 2 kilometers from Adi Saptagram station, from outside the station you can catch an e-rickshaw (Toto) in a shared or booked mode. It’s around 4.5 Kilometers from Bandel Junction and you can also take similar local transport from there.
Ideally club this place along with other tourist attractions nearby like Bandel Church, Debanandapur, etc. Refer to the list below.
Location of Sayed Jamaluddin Mosque
Other Places Nearby
Bandel Church
Vande Mataram Bhawan
Zafar Khan Ghazi Dargah and Mosque
Hangseshwari Temple
Hooghly Imambara
Dutch Cemetery in Chinsurah
Tomb of Susanna Anna Maria
Resources
Archeological Survey of India – Kolkata Circle
Indian Culture
Bengal: past and present (January to June) vol.3 Publication date 1909
Natural History Museum Library – London
Biodiversity Heritage Library
Hunter’s Statistical Account of Bengal, Vol. III
Bengal District Gazetteers: Hooghly by L.S.S. OʼMalley & Monmohan Chakravarty
Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, Part I for 1870
Riyazu-s-salatin; a history of Bengal. Translated from the original Persian by Maulavi Abdus Salam by Salim, Ghulam Husain
Hooghly: Bengal District Gazetteers by L.S.S O’Malley
UNESCO Digital Library
Resources
Monographs Of The Varendra Research Society No. 3
The Telegraph
Archeological Survey of India – Kolkata Circle
West Bengal Heritage Commission
Other Blogs on South 24 Parganas
Canning House – Port Canning
Temples od Bawali
Places To Visit Around Barrackpore
ThiThis is the final blog in the Barrackpore series in which I have compiled all the places that one can visit at Barrackpore. I have listed down 28 places that you can visit in Barrackpore.
It is to be kept in mind that while some places are open to the public for direct access however for some places you do need prior permission.
How to visit the places in Barrackpore?
I would recommend you to have your two-wheeler or car so that you can cover all these places in a day. The distance if you see it on the map will be difficult to cover on foot. If you are visiting during the winter months then it can be a pleasant walk around these tourist places but summer can be very hot and prepare accordingly.
Location of these places on map
List of tourist places around Barrackpore
Annapurna Temple
If you look at it first then you might find the amazing resemblance to Dakshineswar Temple. Construction started around 1870 the temple design is that of Navaratna meaning it has nine pinnacles. The temple was constructed with the patronage of Jagadamba the youngest daughter of Rani Rashmani.
Lalkuthi Fire Station
This is the old fire station and even though the building is in shambles it gives you a good idea of the architectural heritage that this building once represented. The location of this building is right next to Annapurna Temple.
Barrackpore Park South Gate
This was once the original gate for Barrackpore Park during the British Raj. Now only the concrete structures remain and no gates can be seen. This is located on the main road junction between Annapurna Temple and Gandhi Ghat.
When this gate separated the Barrackpore park which consisted of parks, lakes, and even a zoo from the native quarters.
Barrackpore Government High School
Established in 1837 this school was built by George Eden who was Governor-General of India. The main old building still bears the old Neo-Gothic architectural style.
Jawaharkunja Park
There are two parks in this vicinity that are ticketed and open to the public. The one that comes first on the way towards Gandhi Ghat is the place where usually picnics happen. Shades along with a water supply are provided for cooking and resting. This section of the park is more of an open field with lots of trees along the side. This park is located right on the banks of the Hooghly River.
Avoid this park during the monsoon season as the park virtually becomes a pool of water and mud. Entry to the park would be Rs. 35 per person, if you wish to avail cooking facility then the charges are different.
Gandhi Ghat
After the death of Mahatma Gandhi, his ashes were taken to different parts of India to be immersed. Here a portion of the ashes is preserved for paying homage. A monument was constructed that houses a portion of the ashes of his mortal remains.
Photography is restricted inside the premises and one needs to pay special attention when visiting this place as this is a sacred monument of the Father of the Nation.
Jawaharkunja Range
Right next to Gandhi Ghat there is another park also known as Jawaharkunja but unlike the previous one, this is very well maintained with pristine garden and walkways. This part of the park is not meant for a picnic but instead for enjoying nature.
Entry to this place would be Rs. 35 for adults and Rs. 20 for children (3 – 12). You would need to purchase additional tickets for photography and videography.
Lady Canning Tomb
Previously one could walk straight from Jawaharkunja Range to the Lady Canning Tomb but at the moment entry has been restricted to tourists from this gate and only personnel from the West Bengal Police Training Academy (Swami Vivekananda Police Training Academy).
To visit this place one would need prior permission from them and then access this place from the main gate only.
This is the place where Lady Canning was buried. Her original ornated tomb was shifted away from this place due to damage from rain and humidity to St. Paul’s Cathedral first and then now to St. John’s Church in Kolkata.
Later the statue of Lord Earl Canning was installed here after being removed from the streets of Calcutta.
To know more about this place read this blog post:-
Tomb of Lady Canning in Barrackpore.
Barrackpore Government House
Once Barrackpore was considered as the summer place for Governor-General’s and Viceroy’s and thus this building served as their official residence. This building was expanded over the years and then post-independence was converted as a hospital. Recently restored this building now houses a museum in the basement.
To know more about this place read this blog post:-
Banyan Tree
This is the famous Banyan Tree which has often been referred to as the place from where Mangal Pandey was hanged for his execution. This is not true as he was hanged at the Barracks and not at a place that was back then a residential section.
The original tree suffered severe damage during hurricane Amphan and now only its branched-off section remains to be seen.
Bungalow No 2
Previously there were many thatched houses around the park. These were demolished and new ones built by Lord Elgin between 1863 – 1865. This included the Flagstaff House and Honeymoon Lodge.
Bungalow No 2 now serves as the hospital after it got shifted from the Government House.
Honeymoon Lodge
Bungalow No 3 is the Honeymoon lodge. This was the official residence of the Military Secretary. It got its name as in the year 1835 Hannah More and her husband Sir Charles Edward Trevelyan had spent their honeymoon here in this bungalow.
Currently, this building is the official residence of a senior official of West Bengal Police.
Aviary Pond
This was started by Lord Auckland (1835 – 1842)
Minto Fountain
As the name suggests it was started by Lord Minto. This fountain was right in between the Minto Flower Garden.
World War II Huts
Numerous Nissen Huts were built across Barrackpore during WWII to accommodate the American soldiers. Air Transport Command operated from Barrackpore and played a vital role in suppressing the advancing Japanese from the east.
Flagstaff House
This was a small structure with a single floor and was the official residence of the Private Secretary to the Governor-General.
Post-independence the first Governor of Bengal refused to stay at the more opulent Government House citing excessive expenditure and instead decided to use the Flagstaff House as the summer residence of the Governor.
Please note that to visit this place you need prior permission from the Governor House in Kolkata.
To know more about this place read this blog post:-
Cenotaph
This was constructed as a memorial to commemorate the 24 fallen officers. They died during the war of Java and Isle de France which we now know as Mauritius in 1810 – 1811.
An additional tablet was installed here by Lord Ellenborough in the year 1844. This was to commemorate the fallen soldiers at Maharajpur and Punniar in Gwalior.
It is to be noted that he also constructed another monument at Calcutta (Kolkata) near Fort William facing the Hooghly River which we now know as the Gwalior Monument.
Semaphore Tower
Located right next to the Flagstaff House within its compound is the Semaphore Tower. These were used before the advent of the Telegraph and were used for signaling with the flag and poles. Messages in form of signals were often relayed from one tower to the other.
Balustraded Bridge
This magnificent bridge was constructed by Lord Wellesly. This bridge stands over Moti Jheel.
West Gate
This is the gate which is located on the other side of Balustraded Bridge over Moti Jheel.
Mangal Pandey Ghat
Located right next to the Flagstaff House is this ghat on the Hooghly River. On the other side is Serampore. This Ghat has a separate road connecting it thus you do not need any separate permission to access this place.
Mangal Pandey Park
Located next to Mangal Pandey Ghat is the public park. This is a ticketed park and would require additional tickets for photography.
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
This church was earlier known as Garrison Church and was the main church for the barracks. Now this church functions as the cathedral for Barrackpore Diocese (CNI).
You can read more about this churn in this blog:-
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
Wesley Church
This church is roughly located around 400 meters from St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral. This church also is a church under Barrackpore Diocese (CNI). Unlike St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral which is an Anglican church, this church is a Methodist church established in 1883.
Old Houses
There are several old Kothis or Bungalows scattered around Barrackpore which are in ruins. While most of them are out of reach this particular one is located right next to the road and can be easily seen.
A word of caution, this place is slightly unsafe as the locals use this place as a spot for quick addiction. I was warned by local boys not to venture inside and just click photos from outside.
Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya
Mahatma Gandhi had during his lifetime visited Barrackpore a few times and loves the calm and quiet atmosphere surrounded by nature. So aptly a museum was built at Barrackpore which showcases the life and struggle of the Father of the nation.
From time to time they have a documentary show on Barrackpore which is projected in the AV Gallery. I would strongly suggest you watch this as this would give you immense knowledge about the history of Barrackpore.
Barrackpore Cemetery
This is a small cemetery and this is part of the Commonwealth War Graves as this place has 23 identified burials from WWI and WWII.
To know more about this place read this blog post:-
Barrackpore Cemetery Commonwealth War Graves
House of Surendranath Banerjee
Often referred to as the Rashtraguru he was one of the founding members of the Indian National Congress. His house now has been converted into a school.
If you start exploring early then you can finish visiting all these places within a day. Please refer to the map that I have inserted at the beginning of the blog, follow that sequence if possible then you can cover all these places with minimum overrun.
All these places have ample parking space thus you can easily get your vehicle and park while visiting different spots.
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St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
Wherever the British went they took trade along and also their religion with them. That is the very reason why you have some of the finest churches in Calcutta (Kolkata). It was not restricted to only Calcutta but across all the major cities where the British had their presence.
While Calcutta boats of massive churches and cathedrals like St. Johns Church, St. Paul’s Cathedral, St. James, etc. in Barrackpore also had built few churches for the English soldiers and their families. It was referred to as the Garrison Church since its location was right next to the army barracks. It was dedicated to St. Bartholomew and is more commonly now known as St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral.
Now if you compare it with St. Paul’s Cathedral in Kolkata it is no match in size and grandeur but it is significant considering the divisions that the churches of India are divided into.
To make it easy for you to understand let us roughly divide the churches in India into four main categories, Roman Catholic, Protestants, Orthodox, New Age Churches, etc.
Now in India multiple protestant churches (denominations) have amalgamated into a single church body known as the Church of North India (CNI) and Church of South India (CSI). And these groups comprise of smaller Diocese comprising of a big geographical area. In Kolkata, you have the Calcutta Diocese under CNI and for Barrackpore and a large part of North 24 Parganas, South 24 Parganas, Murshidabad and Nadia it’s under the Barrackpore Diocese.
St. Bartholomew’s happens to be the headquarters of the Barrackpore Diocese and one of the largest churches under it thus it is considered as St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral.
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
This is an Anglican Church that was consecrated by the Bishop in 1847.
It’s a small church when you are calling it a cathedral, it’s a single-story flat-roof church. The church consists of the main altar at the center and a smaller chapel inside to the right of the altar. On the left of the altar are seating arrangements for the choir or the congregation seniors. Seating arrangements are in two rows on benches spread across the church floor.
There are many marbles as well as brass tablets and plaques around the inside wall. Most of these are dated during the British Raj.
Plaques at St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
Location of St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
How to visit St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
Two church services are held every Sunday when you can easily visit and attend the mass. The timings are 8 AM and 4.30 PM during the summer months and 8.30 AM and 4 PM during the winter months. If you wish to visit some other day in the week then you need to take permission from the church authorities located within the church compound.
Due to pandemic mass entry of visitors is restricted.
Other Blogs on Barrackpore
Flagstaff House
Barrackpore Park Latbagan
Tomb of Lady Canning
Places To Visit Around Barrackpore
Barrackpore Cemetery Commonwealth War Graves
Reference
The Story Of Government House by N. V. H. Symons
Times of India
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
Wherever the British went they took trade along and also their religion with them. That is the very reason why you have some of the finest churches in Calcutta (Kolkata). It was not restricted to only Calcutta but across all the major cities where the British had their presence.
While Calcutta boats of massive churches and cathedrals like St. Johns Church, St. Paul’s Cathedral, St. James, etc. in Barrackpore also had built few churches for the English soldiers and their families. It was referred to as the Garrison Church since its location was right next to the army barracks. It was dedicated to St. Bartholomew and is more commonly now known as St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral.
Now if you compare it with St. Paul’s Cathedral in Kolkata it is no match in size and grandeur but it is significant considering the divisions that the churches of India are divided into.
To make it easy for you to understand let us roughly divide the churches in India into four main categories, Roman Catholic, Protestants, Orthodox, New Age Churches, etc.
Now in India multiple protestant churches (denominations) have amalgamated into a single church body known as the Church of North India (CNI) and Church of South India (CSI). And these groups comprise of smaller Diocese comprising of a big geographical area. In Kolkata, you have the Calcutta Diocese under CNI and for Barrackpore and a large part of North 24 Parganas, South 24 Parganas, Murshidabad and Nadia it’s under the Barrackpore Diocese.
St. Bartholomew’s happens to be the headquarters of the Barrackpore Diocese and one of the largest churches under it thus it is considered as St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral.
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
This is an Anglican Church that was consecrated by the Bishop in 1847.
It’s a small church when you are calling it a cathedral, it’s a single-story flat-roof church. The church consists of the main altar at the center and a smaller chapel inside to the right of the altar. On the left of the altar are seating arrangements for the choir or the congregation seniors. Seating arrangements are in two rows on benches spread across the church floor.
There are many marbles as well as brass tablets and plaques around the inside wall. Most of these are dated during the British Raj.
Plaques at St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
Location of St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
How to visit St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral
Two church services are held every Sunday when you can easily visit and attend the mass. The timings are 8 AM and 4.30 PM during the summer months and 8.30 AM and 4 PM during the winter months. If you wish to visit some other day in the week then you need to take permission from the church authorities located within the church compound.
Due to pandemic mass entry of visitors is restricted.
Other Blogs on Barrackpore
Flagstaff House
Barrackpore Park Latbagan
Tomb of Lady Canning
Places To Visit Around Barrackpore
Barrackpore Cemetery Commonwealth War Graves
Reference
The Story Of Government House by N. V. H. Symons
Times of India
Tomb of Lady Canning Barrackpore
You can love your wife to the ends of the world but that does not guarantee that the same feeling and respect will be carried on by others forever. The love and tragedy of Lady Canning can easily be scripted into a movie. You may ask why I call it a tragedy for that to understand you need to go through the blog and understand the situation in its entirety.
Short Bio of Lady Canning
Charlotte Canning was born on the 31st of March 1817 in Paris. Her father was the British ambassador in France so she spent her childhood in Paris before shifting back to England in 1831. She was married to Charles Canning on 5th September 1835.
In 1842 she was appointed as Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Victoria. She was very close to the monarch.
When Charles Canning was appointed as the Governor-General to India in 1856 she traveled with her husband to India. It is to be noted that during this period was the famous rebellion of 1857 post which there was a transfer of power from East India Company to the British Crown and Canning became the first Viceroy of India.
The couple did not have any children. She was a prolific painter and had created a vast collection of watercolor landscapes during her stay in India.
She preferred to stay in Barrackpore instead of Calcutta, she preferred the quiet life at Barrackpore instead of the hustle-bustle of the city life in Calcutta.
Death of Lady Canning
Lady Canning loved to travel and with her prolific hobby of watercolor painting, she would visit new places to capture them in her paintings. She was supposed to return to England along with her husband and just before leaving she decided to visit the hills of Darjeeling. On her return journey to Calcutta, she fell ill, it was later diagnosed as Malaria.
It is to be noted that back then there was no treatment for Malaria as such and people survived if they could withstand the infection with their immunity. She died at midnight on the 18th of November 1861 at the Government House in Calcutta.
That very night her body inside a coffin carried on a gun carriage which was drawn by six black horses was taken from Calcutta to Barrackpore. Her husband insisted her body be buried at Barrackpore since she loved that place.
The carriage reached Barrackpore in the very early morning hour. The coffin was kept at Government House in Barrackpore and the early hours as the sun was rising her coffin was carried to her final resting place. The spot selected was right next to the Hooghly River a spot where Lady Canning would often stroll and loved.
The coffin was placed inside a masonry vault created beneath the ground. A vaulted gravesite is usually constructed when there is a plan to make that into a permanent structure. This funeral service was conducted by the Archdeacon of Calcutta.
The death of his wife completely broke Earl Canning and for days he would grieve and also kept visiting the gravesite in the early hours.
Earl Canning after her death
Canning left India for England within a few months on 18th March 1862. As fate would have it or for that matter, the bereaved husband did not have to survive long in pain and anguish. He died within a few months after reaching England on 17th June 1861 and was buried in England at Westminster Abbey.
Before his death, while he was still in India, he had written the epitaph for his wife.
“Honors and praises written on a tomb are at best a vail glory; but that her charity, humility, meekness, and watchful faith in her Saviour will, for the Saviour’s sake, be accepted of God, and be to her a glory everlasting, is the firm trust of those who knew her best, and most dearly loved her in life, and who cherish the memory of her, departed. Sacred to the Memory of Charlotte Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Lord Stuart De Rothsay, wife of Charles John, Viscount and Earl Canning, first Viceroy of India. Born at Paris 31st March 1817. Died at Calcutta 18th November 1861.”
Tomb of Lady Canning in Barrackpore
Be it a church or a burial ground it needs to be blessed and made sacred for that reason the burial site was consecrated by none other than Bishop Cotton himself. This ceremony was done while Earl Canning was in India just before departing for England.
The tomb site was demarcated by an iron railing which had the initial CC in them to resemble “Charlotte Canning”. The marble tomb which was carved from stones from Agra was designed by Lady Canning’s sister Louisa Lady Waterford.
The design was similar to what you see in the Taj Mahal. The marble base has carved mosaic slots which are then ornamented. Unfortunately, due to the weather of Calcutta and the proximity to the river, the excessive moisture seems to have been damaging the tomb.
Initially, a canopy was constructed over the tomb to protect it in 1873. The initial top cover was a temporary shed which later was changed to a canopy.
It was then decided to shift the original tomb casing marble slabs to St. Paul’s Cathedral in Calcutta and instead a simpler replica was created for the original tomb in Barrackpore. When the colonial statues were removed from the streets of Calcutta after independence the statue of Charles Johan Earl Canning was shifted to Barrackpore and aptly placed right opposite the tomb of Lady Canning in Barrackpore.
Tomb of Lady Canning in Kolkata
The new location however caused many difficulties at St. Paul’s Cathedral as that occupied an entire room that was towards the south. There was a need to create a small chapel within the church and the tomb was occupying a large space inside the church. It was then decided to shift the original tomb to St. Johns Church in Kolkata instead in 1913.
Necessary approval was taken from the Canning family and it was shifted. If you visit St. Johns Church you can still see the original tomb on the north side. The tomb does not encase any human remains as the original place of burial for Lady Canning remains at Barrackpore the place she loved so much.
How to Visit Lady Canning Tomb in Barrackpore
The location of the tomb is within the West Bengal Police Training Academy (Swami Vivekananda Police Training Academy) thus you would need prior permission for entering the restricted area. Previously one could access this place from Gandhi Ghat but post pandemic that road remains closed.
Location of Lady Canning Tomb in Barrackpore
Location of the original Tomb structures in Kolkata
Resources
Getty Images – John Edward Saché Collection
British Library – UK
National Portrait Gallery – London
British Government in India by George Nathaniel Curzon
The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Victoria and Albert Museum, London
Times of India
The Hindu
Anadabazar Patrika
Other Blog Post on Barrackpore
Flagstaff House Barrackpore
Canning House – Port Canning
Barrackpore Park Latbagan
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
Places To Visit Around Barrackpore
Barrackpore Cemetery Commonwealth War Graves
Flagstaff House Barrackpore
I had made three previous futile attempts to visit Flagstaff House Barrackpore. But somehow things were not coming in place. Finally last year in November I got a special invitation from West Bengal Heritage Commission to attend a special visit arranged by the West Bengal Police Training Academy (Swami Vivekananda Police Training Academy).
Now here is the tricky part as while some of the British-era heritage sites are present inside the training academy but even though Flagstaff House is located right next to it but it comes under the jurisdiction of Governor House in Kolkata. So one would need separate permission to visit the two sites.
A short history of Barrackpore Lat Bagan
In the year 1775, a cantonment was established by the British at Barrackpore. Then of course the name was not Barrackpore and the village where this was established was known as Chanak.
Chanak was a trading post for the local zamindars of Bengal as it was situated right on the banks of the Hooghly River. Chanak along with Nona Chandan Pukur was already a trading post since the 15th century.
The name Barrackpore was derived after the establishment of the “Barrack” and it was Indianized as “Barrackpore”.
The main building in Barrackpore is not the Flagstaff House but the Governor General’s House located at Lat Bagan. The building is now located inside West Bengal Police Training Academy. This building was however not built for Governor-General but was the residence of the Commander in Chief.
On the 1st of February 1801 Marquis Wellesly who was then the Governor-General fell in love with the property and took over this property as his official residence and the Commander in Chief was provided an additional house allowance to vacate this property.
He was however not contempt in living on this building and had great plans of constructing a grand building. So, he proceeded to demolish the original building. He even had a great plan to construct a straight highway from the Government House in Calcutta.
During the construction of the new grand house at Barrackpore, he had constructed a temporary residence for himself. The new building was never completed as was constructed till the ground floor. Wellesly resigned left for England in 1805 thus his dream house remained incomplete was later demolished.
The temporary house that was built is what was later developed by Sir George Barlow, Lord Hasting, Lord Auckland, Lord Lytton, and Lord Minto by adding different wings and sections to what we now see as the Governor’s residence of Barrackpore.
Each governor added a new element to this estate like the zoo, bridge, fountain, lake, etc.
History of Flagstaff House
While the Governor General’s residence was an opulent building that stood out in Barrackpore there were other smaller buildings scattered across Barrackpore. One such small but the significant structure was the bungalow which was located near the Flagstaff. The Flagstaff is a long mast on which flags are hoisted.
If you see old paintings of Barrackpore then you can see a huge flag pole located right next to the Semaphore Tower. Due to the presence of this flagstaff, the bungalow located right behind it was also referred to as the Flagstaff Bungalow.
This was a small structure with a single floor and was the official residence of the Private Secretary to the Governor-General.
Post-independence the first Governor of Bengal refused to stay at the more opulent Government House citing excessive expenditure and instead decided to use the Flagstaff House as the summer residence of the Governor.
The Government House got converted to a hospital and functioned as it is. In 2012 much restoration work was carried out and the hospital shifted to another building.
How to visit Flagstaff House
This building and its compound come under the direct administration of the Governor’s House of West Bengal and prior permission is required from Raj Bhavan. You can send in your applications there and after necessary paperwork, you will be permitted to visit and photograph.
Location of Flagstaff House
This small plot of land lies sandwiched between the Barrackpore Cantonment area which is administered by the Barrackpore Cantonment Board under the Ministry of Defence and West Bengal Police Training Academy (Swami Vivekananda Police Training Academy).
To reach this building just follow the road towards Mangal Pandey Park.
Photography Restrictions
As a rule of thumb, it’s best to not photograph without permission around Cantonment are unless it’s a park or common public area. Remember that this is a defence property and restrictions apply. With permission, you are free to photograph.
What to see at Flagstaff House
The Flagstaff house now is the official summer residence of the governor but in reality, this is just a fancy title given to this building and in the recent past very few times did the governor of West Bengal did visit this place.
The main building is very simple with a couple of rooms and elegant wooden furniture. The biggest room is the main drawing room as you enter and has a beautiful collection of paintings. On the back, there is the massive verandah that faces the gardens and the open ground.
Cenotaph
Apart from the main building, there is the Cenotaph which classically resembles a Greek temple. This was constructed by Lord Minto (1807 – 1813). At the front of the Cenotaph is the statue of King George V.
This was constructed as a memorial to commemorate the 24 fallen officers. They died during the war of Java and Isle de France which we now know as Mauritius in 1810 – 1811.
An additional tablet was installed here by Lord Ellenborough in the year 1844. This was to commemorate the fallen soldiers at Maharajpur and Punniar in Gwalior.
It is to be noted that he also constructed another monument at Calcutta (Kolkata) near Fort William facing the Hooghly River which we now know as the Gwalior Monument.
On the Northside of the building, one can see a marble statue. Notably, this is the only marble statue that one can see at Flagstaff House. This is the statue of Peel (Captain Sir William Peel VC KCB 1824 – 1858).
He was the son of Sir Robert Peel the Prime Minister of Britain. He was initially the captain of the Royal Navy serving during the Crimean War. After that, he came to India and was at Lucknow during the infamous Indian Mutiny. He survived the day and was knighted for his heroic effort. He died shortly after suffering from smallpox.
Statues of Flagstaff House (North Side)
There are many statues of Imperial rulers and prominent people from the British Raj. Once these statues were located all around Calcutta (Kolkata) but post-independence due to ongoing public sentiments regarding the colonial oppressors these were forced to be removed from the streets and were for long stored in a government warehouse.
These were later installed here at Flagstaff house as a matter of historic reference and importance. It is to be noted that the statue of Lord Auckland was shifted to Auckland in New Zealand.
Edwin Samuel Montagu 6th February 1879 – 15th November 1924 was the Secretary of State (1917 – 1922).
Earl of Ronaldshay (Lawrence John Lumley Dundas) 11th June 1876 – 6th February 1961 was the Governor of Bengal (1917 – 1922).
Northbrook (Thomas George Baring) 22nd January 1826 – 15th November 1904 was the Viceroy of India (1872–1876).
Curzon (George Nathaniel Curzon) 11th January 1859 – 20th March 1925 was the Viceroy of India from (1899 – 1905).
John Lawrence (John Laird Mair Lawrence) 4th March 1811 – 27th June 1879 was the Viceroy and Governor-General (1864 – 1869).
Statues of Flagstaff House (South Side)
Sir John Woodburn 7th April 1898 – 23rd November 1902 was the Lieutenant Governor of Bengal (1898 – 902).
The Marquis of Lansdowne (Henry Charles Keith Petty-Fitzmaurice) 14th January 1845 – 3rd June 1927 was the Viceroy and Governor-General of India (1888 – 1894).
Richard Southwell (Richard Southwell Bourke) 21st February 1822 – 8th February 1872 was the Viceroy of India (1869–72).
Napier of Magdala (Robert Cornelis Napier) 6th December 1810 – 14th January 1890 was the Commander-in-Chief, India (1870 – 1876).
Earl of Minto (Gilbert John Elliot Murray Kynynmound) 9th July 1845 – 1st March 1914 was the Viceroy and Governor-General of India (1905 – 1910).
Other Structures
Located right next to the Flagstaff House within its compound is the Semaphore Tower. These were used before the advent of the Telegraph and were used for signaling with the flag and poles. Messages in form of signals were often relayed from one tower to the other.
Only a single cannon could be seen placed near the Cenotaph. By its size, it could have probably been used for signaling or gun salutes.
Sources
Hindustan Times
The Hindu
Raj Bhavan Kolkata
Times of India
The Story Of Government House by N. V. H. Symons
West Bengal Heritage Commission
The Wire
Other Posts on Barrackpore
Tomb of Lady Canning in Barrackpore
Barrackpore Park Latbagan
St. Bartholomew’s Cathedral Barrackpore
Places To Visit Around Barrackpore
Barrackpore Cemetery Commonwealth War Graves
Tomb Of Susanna Anna Maria
There is something really strange about the tomb of Susanna Anna Maria Yeats (Verkerk). To begin with, very little information exists. The ones with any information had very basic information and almost all other blogs on this subject are old wine in a new bottle. Somehow, I wanted to know more about her and thus this blog is finally ready after months of research.
Thanks (or no thanks) to Ruskin Bond and his short story by the name “Susanna’s Seven Husband” now her character forever has been marred by designating her as a black window. Historically there are no records or any reference that she had seven husbands. As per all official records that I have seen and verified she was married just twice.
So let’s go one step at a time and try to decipher the mysterious life of Susanna Anna Maria Brueys Verkerk and her last resting place.
Timeline of Susanna Anna Maria
Susanna Anna Maria Verkerk
Born: 5 October 1743
Father: Gerard Verkerk Mother: Adriana Raats
Died: 12 May 1809
(Husband 1) Pieter Brueys
Born: 6 November 1730
Married: 18 October 1759
Children (with Susanna Anna Maria): Susanna Jaboba de Brueys (1761), Louis Adriaan de Brueys, Maria Anna de Brueys
Died: 23 August 1783
(Husband 2) Thomas Joseph Yeats
Born: Unknown
Died: Unknown
Married: 30 March 1795
Pieter Brueys
He was a Senior Merchant and Chief Administrator of the Dutch settlement in Hooghly. In 1783 he became the Dutch Director of the settlement. Before that in 1764 he was the Merchant and Chief Administrator of Cossimbazar.
He was the first husband of Susanna Anna Maria Verkerk and fathered three children with her. A lot of wealth and influence has come to Susanna Anna Maria from him due to his position in the Dutch administration.
He was born in The Hague in Netherlands to Jean Israël de Brueys and Suzanne Sandrin. He had one brother and one sister. Interestingly the first recorded document that we get both of Pieter Brueys and Susanna Anna Maria were in a document of Baptism of the son (also named Pieter) of his sister Johanna de Brueys.
By then they were married but interestingly Susanna Anna Maria signs her name as Susanna Anna Maria Verkerk instead of using the surname “Brueys”. In this document, they have signed as a witness which is normally the norm during any baptism ceremony as one needs to stand as Godfather and Godmother.
They were married for 24 years and after his death was buried at the Dutch Cemetery in Chinsurah. One can still see the tomb of Pieter Brueys standing with a stone plaque.
Thomas Joseph Yeats (Yeates)
Originally from Gloucestershire where he owned an estate but lost it all in his horse gambling addiction. To sort things out financially he joined East India Company as a cadet in 1779 rising to the ranks of lieutenant in 1781. He resigned from service on the 13th of December 1786. He reached Calcutta via Madras from Norfolk on March 1781.
After leaving the infantry as a lieutenant we only know that he became a merchant and had settled somewhere near Chinsurah. The details of his trade and business are not known in detail.
The only reference that I have found is that he had rented a room from Bob Pott. This was found in a letter that Bob Pott had written to Sir. Elijah Impey, in this letter Thomas Yeats gets some connection as the “Administrator of L. Lyons Estate”.
I tried searching for L. Lyon and his estate but could not find anything concrete. The only thing that I found was there is a place right behind the Writers’ Building which is known as Lyons Range. This place got its name from Thomas Lyon who was the designer of the Writers’ Building.
The most interesting piece of evidence which I can produce here is the original copy of the marriage certificate of Susanna Anna Maria Brueys with Thomas Yeats which took place at St. Johns Church in Calcutta. The date on the certificate mentioned is 30th of March 1795 and bears the original signatures of both Susanna Anna Maria Brueys and Thomas Yeats. It is to be noted that Susanna Anna Maria Brueys signed herself as S.A.M. Brueys.
The marriage with Thomas Yeats was short-lived and as per some
records, the couple got divorced. However, there is no evidence in the
church record. This information is debatable since in her tomb she
chooses Yeats instead of Brueys. Also, it’s a recorded fact that Susanna
Anna Maria was a widow of both of her husbands.
Mysterious Third Husband
In some recent documents, there is a mention of a Floris Cup as the mysterious third husband (first marriage) but this is incorrect.
Records indicate that Floris Cups was the first husband of Adriana Raats (mother of Susanna Anna Maria) and that her mother was a widow.
The error usually happens due to improper translation from Dutch to English. The single piece of evidence that gives us much of the details tries to say that Susanna Anna Maria was the daughter of Gerard Verkerk and Adriana Raats who was the widow of Floris Cup. Here Adriana Raats is the widow of Floris Cup.
It took me a lot of effort but I managed to get a copy of the original marriage record of Adriana Raats with Floris Cup on May 1723.
Tomb of Susanna Anna Maria
For some strange reason, she had decided to stand out even after her death. Not only did she build a magnificent tall tomb for herself but also kept funds for the maintenance of her tomb as well as that of her two husbands. While the tomb of Pieter Brueys still can be seen there is no trace of the tomb or grave of Thomas Yeats as of now.
The tomb is painted white and was built after the death of Susanna Anna Maria. The tomb is octagonal and is seen on a high plinth. To access it you need to climb a few flights of stairs on all four sides. The structure consists of Corinthian columns and on top, there is a semi-circular dome. On the dome there is an inscription “Susanna Anna Maria Yeats, nee Verkerk overleden 1809”
The structure itself looks as if it has been built with two separate sections with the upper section a litter smaller than the base section.
There used to be a marble slab at the center under the dome previously but that is now missing. The slab contained an epitaph written in Dutch.
Ter Gedagtenis van Susanna Anna Maria Yeates Geboorene Verkery obit den 12 Maij Anno 1809
Ik Lag in het graft zonder geklag
Ep rust dar tot den jongsten dag
Dan zult gy Heer mijn graft out dekken
En mij ter ecuwige Vrengd verstrekken.
(I lie in this grave without complaint In rest until the judgment Day I hen shall you. Lord, open my grave and take me to eternal joy).
The design however is not an innovative one as it is a replica of Tammerus Canter Visscher in Cossimbazar. It is to be noted that Pieter Brueys was the Merchant and Chief Administrator
of Cossimbazar and by then they were already married so highly probable
that she had seen this tomb in Cossimbazar and wanted something similar
for herself.
Will of Susanna Anna Maria
She had created her last will in the year 1809 the year of her death. This last will was witnessed by Louis Adriaan de Brueys (son) Johannes Muller, and Daniel Anthony Overbeek (Last Dutch director of Bengal, 1818-25).
In this will, she left all her possessions to his son Louis Adriaan de Brueys. This included six mares along with a coach, a house located in Chinsurah.
Previously there was another will which was created on 21 November 1805 wherein she left behind 4000 Rupees in a trust. The interest from this will be used for the maintenance of her tomb and also that of her two dead husbands. If there was a surplus then that would go to Chinsurah Poor Fund.
The place where she was buried (her tomb) was called Ayesh Baag and consisted of around 60 bighas of land. This she wanted to be a burial ground for the English and the Dutch. This however did not happen as the existing Dutch cemetery was expanded and it did not make sense to create another burial ground at this spot. Thus, the tomb of Susanna Anna Maria stands alone surrounded by open space.
This land along with the church and cemetery was handed over to the Bishop of Calcutta in 1825.
Location of The Tomb of Susanna Anna Maria
The tomb is located right next to the main road (Grand Trunk Road). The name of the place is Khadina More. If you are traveling on the road then it can be easily be spotted from the main road. The locals also refer to this tomb as Saat Saheber Bibir Kobor which translates to the grave of a woman with seven European husbands.
How To Reach The Tomb of Susanna Anna Maria
The nearest train station is Chuchura and has many trains from Howrah. From the train station, you can take a Toto (e-rickshaw) to this place. Additionally, you may also book a Toto for a round trip.
If you are coming to this place along with other tourist places around Chandannagar and Hooghly then it’s best to come in your own or hired vehicle. There is ample parking space around this tomb.
The tomb is easily seen from the main road and is a prime tourist attraction thus won’t be difficult to locate.
Location of The Tomb of Susanna Anna Maria on Map
Reference
List of the officers of the Bengal army: 1758-1834 by V.C.P. Hodson
Columbia University In The City of New York Digital Library
List of inscriptions on tombs or monuments in Bengal possessing historical or archaeological interest – 1896
Amsterdam City Archives
Bengal Past And Present Vol.51 Part 1 – 1936
Bengal Past And Present Vol.25 – 1923
Archaeological Survey of India – Kolkata Circle
Other Places Nearby
Bandel Church
Vande Mataram Bhawan
Zafar Khan Ghazi Dargah and Mosque
Hangseshwari Temple
Hooghly Imambara
Dutch Cemetery in Chinsurah
Vande Mataram Bhawan – Chinsurah
Growing up in Bangalore in the late ’80s and early ’90s had its charm. The city was about to boom into its Information Technology space but it was not just there yet. The school that I and my sister went was relatively small back then. One of the most interesting things about that school was every morning during the Assembly prayer a different song used to be sung. Apart from the national anthem, there was “Sare Jahan Se Achha”, “Guru Bramha Guru Vishnu” and “Vande Mataram”.
So, the complete lyrics of these were known by heart and we were specifically stressed on the correct pronunciation. As a child the song Vande Mataram was difficult to understand since it was in Sanskrit and none of it made sense.
Forward to the year 1997 when A. R. Rahman release an album with the same name and it also happened to be 50 years of Indian Independence. I had managed to purchase the audio cassette and inside that, there was a booklet with the lyrics. Of course, that album was a resounding hit and became a cult classic but I was yet to understand its lyrics in depth.
Last year when travel options were limited, I usually used to go on weekend-long bike rides. On one such occasion, I managed to cover a very unique house which is known as “Vande Mataram Bhawan”. Situated on the banks of Hooghly River at Chuchura (Chinsurah).
Vande Mataram Bhawan
The moment you approach this building it’s very clear it’s something special. The appearance of this building spells out that this is an old house built during the British Raj and thanks to a recent restoration carried out on this building it’s in very good health with a pristine white coat of paint.
This was the house in which Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay used to stay when he was appointed to Hooghly as Sub-Divisional Officer.
Originally Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay hailed from Naihati which when you look on the map is right on the opposite side of the Hooghly river.
He did not build this house but had purchased it when he moved to Hooghly. This house was part of the huge property once owned by Qassim Mallick.
History of Vande Mataram Bhawan
Here comes the confusion which I need to clear out. Even though the name of the building has been given as Vande Mataram Bhawan there is no concrete evidence that indeed it was composed by Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay while he was residing here. To make things clear I have somewhat tried to list down the timeline of Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay.
1839 – 27 June 1838 – Born in Naihati, West Bengal
1856 – Joined Presidency College
1859 – Passed B.A.
1859 – Appointed Deputy Collector
1865 – Durgeshnandini published
1866 – Wrote Kapalkundala
1869 – Wrote Mrinalini
1870 – Vande Mataram Composed
1872 – Started Bangadarshan Magazine
1873 – Wrote Bishabriksha
1876 – Became Sub-Divisional Officer of Hooghly (Shifted to Hooghly in 1876)
1877 – Wrote Chandrasekhar
1877 – Wrote Rajrani
1881 – Wrote Rajsimha
1882 – Wrote Anandamath
1884 – Wrote Devi Chaudhurani
1891 – Retied
1894 – 8 April 1894 – Died
Thus, from the above timeline, it is very clear that Vande Mataram was composed initially in 1870 much before he became Sub-Divisional officer of Hooghly and shifted to this house. However, here lies the interesting bit. When he was residing in this building, he wrote Anandamath in 1882, and in this very book do we see Vande Mataram in a different avatar.
Initially, Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay had composed the first two stanzas of Vande Mataram in 1870 which goes like this.
vande mātaram
vande mātaram
sujalāṃ suphalāṃ
malayajaśītalām
śasyaśyāmalāṃ
mātaram
vande mātaram
śubhrajyotsnām
pulakitayāminīm
phullakusumita
drumadalaśobhinīm
suhāsinīṃ
sumadhura bhāṣiṇīm
sukhadāṃ varadāṃ
mātaram
vande mātaram
However, in Anandamath which was written in 1882, he extended the Vande Mataram by additional four paragraphs which goes like this.
Saptakoṭīkanṭha-kala-kala-ninādakarāle
Dbisaptakoṭībhujaidhṛtakharakarabāle,
Abalā kena mā eta bale!
Bahubaladhārinīṃ
Namāmi tarinīṃ
Ripudalabārinīṃ
Mātaram.
Tumi bidyā[j] tumi dharma
Tumi hrṛdi tumi marma
Tbaṃ hi prānāḥ śarīre.
Bāhute tumi mā śakti,
Hṛdaye tumi mā bhakti,
Tomārai pratimā gaṛi mandire mandire.
Tbaṃ hi Durgā daśapraharanadhārinī
Kamalā kamala-dalabihārinī
Bānī bidyādāyinī
Namāmi tbaṃ
Namāmi kamalām
Amalāṃ atulām,
Sujalāṃ suphalām
Mātaram
Bande Mātaram
Śyāmalām saralām
Susmitām bhūṣitām
Dharanīṃ bharanīṃ
Mātaram
Thus it can be safely said that this building is where Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay had composed the song Vande Mataram in its entirety however the first two paraphs which so synonymous with the freedom struggle were composed some 12 years prior.
The Fate of Vande Mataram
If you see the translation of this song from Sanskrit then the last additional paragraphs which were added you can see that this becomes an ode to Durga the goddess. This created a religious divide during the freedom struggle and many Muslim leaders opposed this song to be sung especially making it into a song for freedom struggle.
It is to be noted that Rabindranath Tagore himself had sung this song publicly in 1896 at an Indian National Congress event. In 1937 what was done was to drop the additional paragraphs and only the first two paragraphs were sung at Indian National Congress events to maintain neutrality.
In the year 1950 after independence when “Jana Gana Mana” was selected to be the national anthem of India by the Indian Constitution however, the Constituent Assembly of India adopted this song as the National Song. Only the first two paragraphs were selected as the national song which had equal importance as the national anthem.
What to See at Vande Mataram Bhawan
This house is located right next to the river and after its restoration can easily be toured. Both interior and exterior wise this building is very well maintained. A marble plaque outside the main entrance tells the visitor about the significance of this building. A burst of Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay is also placed right next to the main entrance.
Once you go inside you will find the empty rooms but the walls have been decorated with paintings and other informative banners from the freedom struggle.
There is a spiral staircase inside the building which takes you to the upper floor which has a small room on the terrace. There is another room below the ground floor since this house is situated near the river banks thus the drop in land towards the river bank created a space from an underground room.
The ghat at this place is also very well maintained and can get a very good panoramic view of the Hooghly River. There is also a small park that has been built in between the house and the river bank.
How to reach Vande Mataram Bhawan
If you are coming by train then both Chuchura and Hooghly train stations are nearby. From the station, you can take an e-rickshaw and reach the spot (Joraghat). You can also reach Naihati (the other side of the Hooghly River) by catching a ferry from Naihati Ghat to Chinsurah Ghat.
If you are coming with your vehicle then you can park your vehicle nearby and visit the spot. Keep in mind that the road is very narrow thus for four-wheeler parking can be a bit challenging.
I would recommend that you combine other tourist places around Bandel or Chandannagar so that you can have a stopover.
There are no entry tickets for this place and anyone can visit and take photographs.
Location of Vande Mataram Bhawan on Map
Resources
West Bengal Heritage Commission
The Wire
Britannica
West Bengal Council of Higher Secondary Education
Indian Express
Indian Express
The Telegraph
French Cemetery Chandannagar
Once there was a French cemetery in Calcutta (Kolkata) but now that is sadly not preset anymore. So, my next bet to explore the French connection of Bengal was obviously the town of Chandannagar which in this blog I will keep referring to as “Chandernagore” which was known back then.
Weekend travel during pandemics has its disadvantage since most of the tourist places are either shut or don’t have any official information about reopening. While most churches are still open for mass but it’s not the same for visitors especially when it comes to Cemetery.
For me to visit the French Cemetery in Chandernagore it took me three unsuccessful attempts and then I had a full proof plan that is to visit it a day before All Souls Day knowing very well that the cemetery will be open for pre-cleaning activities. This bet paid off and finally, on my fourth attempt, I found the gates to the French Cemetery in Chandannagar open. This cemetery is also referred to as the Sacred Heart Cemetery since this cemetery is part of the Sacred Heart Church in Chandannagar. The church is also the custodian of this property.
Location of French Cemetery in Chandannagar
The cemetery is located right opposite Lal Dighi which is a large lake. Fort d’Orleans was located right behind this Lal Dighi before being destroyed during the siege. Nothing remains of that fort but the reference of this Lal Dighi and the cemetery can be seen in earlier maps. This fort was raised to the ground by Robert Clive in 1757.
History of French Cemetery in Chandannagar
According to the marble plaque installed inside the cemetery the date mentioned is 1696. The French came to this part of Bengal in 1670 and along with them came missionaries. At one point there were three churches in Chandernagore managed by various sects like Capuchins, Society of Jesus, and the Jesuits. Thus you can say that this cemetery is primarily a Catholic cemetery. However, some Protestants were also buried here which can be found on the left side of the cemetery as you enter from the main gate.
What to see at French Cemetery in Chandannagar
The cemetery has recently been restored. Not all the old tombs and graves have been restored but selected few important ones have been restored while the rest of the cemetery has been cleaned up and pathways built around the cemetery.
One has to agree that quite a few of the tombs are in urgent need of repair as the outer plater layer has completely come off. While some of them have been dangerously tilted due to a weak foundation and soft soil.
As you enter the cemetery you will find newly installed marble plaques and the pathways that have been dedicated to saints and other important personalities. Keeping with the tradition the pathways have been named in French like “Rue Mother Teressa”, “Rue Radhanath Sikdar” etc.
Some Important People Buried at Cemetery in Chandannagar
How To Visit French Cemetery in Chandannagar
This place is located not far from the rest of the tourist locations in Chandannagar and if you are traveling with your vehicle then there is ample parking space right outside the cemetery. If you have reached this place by local train or bus then the best way to go around the town is using a hired e-rickshaw.
Location of French (Sacred Heart) Cemetery in Chandannagar on Map
Sources
Bengal, Past And Present: Journal Of The Calcutta Historical Society 1908
Canning House – Port Canning
I have traveled to the Canning town several times when my dad used to go there as a part of his NGO activities. All I knew back then was the sweet meat “Ladycany” (Lady Canning) was named after the wife of the first Viceroy of India, Charles Canning.
It was a tradition to name different places after the names of lords, governors, viceroys, etc. So, it was obvious that the town of Canning was named after him. What was strange was that this place was at the fag end of mainland Bengal after which there was the Sunderbans which back then were mostly inhabitable marshy land.
It was right after the rebellion of 1857 and things moved on from the hands of East India Company to the British Crown and this saw a massive economic expansion of Calcutta. With expansion comes trade and back then Hooghly River and the port of Calcutta were the center point of all activities.
Silting of Hooghly River
The main issue with the Hooghly River was massive silting and this caused the river bed to rise making it difficult for larger ships to enter from the bay and come to Calcutta (Kolkata). This issue was not prevalent when the river was frequented by smaller ships carrying lighter loads but with time and increase in trade, the river traffic was getting difficult to manage.
Also, in some points, the river width is very narrow thus making river traffic in both directions a tricky affair avoiding the low river beds.
Back then there were no dredging activities possible thus the
colonial rulers feared that someday the river will get chocked and river
trade will come to a standstill. To prepare for this calamity there
were talks of having an alternate port for Bengal which would not be on
the Hooghly River but should have easy access to the Bay of Bengal.
Port Canning
The next best option was to build a port at Canning which was part of the South 24 Parganas and part of the Sunderbans. This place was situated on the banks of the Mutlah (Matla) River. Canning is around 50 Kilometres from Calcutta making it the best alternate option when it comes to port.
If one navigates south on Matla River then they would meet up with Bidyadhari River which was a much broader waterway with easy and quick access to the Bay.
Since 1853 this was being looked into however things came to a stop during the rebellion of 1857 and again resumed under the direct rule of the British crown.
History of Port Canning
In 1861 an application was given to the Government of Bengal by a group of businessmen to form a Municipal Commission in Canning. This was approved in 1862 and a committee was appointed. By 1863 the government transferred all its properties to the Municipal Commissioner. This included lands in and around Canning as well as parts of the Sunderbans.
The reason was that there were plans for port offices, railway stations, office buildings, government buildings, etc. To build all these resources a loan was requested from the government for the sum of 20 Lack Rupees. The government loaned 4.5 Lakh Rupees and requested the commission to get the rest of the funds from investors willing to invest in this project.
In 1864 the first offer came from Mr. Ferdinand Schiller (Messer Borradaile Schiller and Company) the Vice-Chairman of the Port Canning Municipality who was ready to invest 2.5 Lakh Rupees but with certain conditions. This would include granting newly formed Port Canning Land Investment Reclamation and Dock Company to build ports, tramways, and other administrative buildings in and around Port Canning. It was obvious that this company was formed by Mr. Schiller himself and many terms and conditions were added to enable the newly formed company to have revenue access from the port through taxes and operational rights.
After starting its basic operations for building ports and other auxiliary buildings it became clear that the newly formed company still did not have enough money which it had projected initially thus, they again went back to the government for further loans.
A sum of Rs. 4.5 Lakh was provided in 1866 and work began for the construction of Port Canning.
Mr. Ferdinand Schiller had however other interests and saw the opportunity in reclaiming a major portion of the Sunderbans for cultivation. He proposed the sale of nearly 10 lakh acres of land at a very cheap rate. His ultimate plan was to develop this section of Bengal in parallel to Calcutta having its port, tramway, railways, and cultivated lands. He also had suggested that Sunderbans be made a separate district with Canning being its Sadar (headquarter) Station.
He was so much into the development of Canning that he even named his son born in 1864 as Ferdinand Canning Scott Schiller.
Cyclone of 1867
A massive cyclone had formed over the Bay of Bengal and it swept through Southern Bengal in the early hours of the 2nd of November. With no prior warning or predictions, this was a massive disaster that caused over a thousand deaths in Calcutta alone.
Canning being much near towards the bay suffered a much serious blow
with severe damages and being completely cut off from Calcutta with no
supply of fresh drinking water or food. A lot of infrastructures around
Port Canning were destroyed.
Abandonment of Port Canning
The concept of having a parallel port to compete with Calcutta ports was from the very beginning a disastrous idea. The whole concept of having another port in Canning was solely based on the fact the Hooghly River was silting up which might clog the waterway completely. This in reality never happened and on the other hand, it was realized that port Canning being very near to the bay was prone to regular cyclones or heavy winds.
Another factor was that even with a mere 50 Kilometre distance from Calcutta the goods from Port Canning had to be brought to Calcutta via the railways. Calcutta and South-Eastern Railways were assigned to the expansion of the railway line from Calcutta to Canning and had invested nearly 5,00,000 Pounds for which the government was the guarantor paying an interest of 5% annually. With very limited goods flowing in from Port Canning it was not viable for the railways to continue operations and it was almost impossible for them to recover the amount which they had invested in building up the infrastructure initially.
The flow of vessels to Port Canning was extremely low and instead of growing every year was decreasing.
1863 to 1864 – 11 vessels
1864 to 1865 – 14 vessels
1865 to 1866 – 27 vessels
1866 to 1867 – 20 vessels
1867 to 1868 – 9 vessels
Thus, business-wise it did not make any impact as this place was solely built on the assumption that either Hooghly River will become impossible for navigation due to silting or the ports at Calcutta will be unable to handle additional business. The river remained navigable and even after the booming business in Calcutta, the ports of Calcutta could easily handle the additional business.
The government had already bled a lot of money in terms of the loan and it was not ready to loan further amounts for the development of Port Canning.
25th July 1868 the government of Bengal issues a letter to cease operations at Port Canning and thus began a 12-month notice for this closure.
However, in some reports around 1884 of the Chamber
of Commerce, we can see that there was still some deliberation of having
ports in Budge Budge or at Port Canning. But by then survey reports by Capt. Petley suggests that the town was a ghost town with only three houses, the railway station, the Cutchery (Court House), and rice mills remaining. Rest all were in ruins.
Port Canning Now
All that remains is just one old two-storied building in an extremely dilapidated condition. The upper floor of the building cannot be accessed and on the ground floor, all rooms are locked. The condition of the building is such precarious that any day it might crumble.
The building had a total of 22 rooms with a large veranda in the
front. Right at the back of the building, there is a river channel
connection to the Mutlah River.
As per a newspaper report, this lone surviving building was sold to Mr. J M Ghosh by J.M. Datiyala – R.C. Cooper. They had got this property from the Port Canning Land Investment, Reclamation, and Dock Co Ltd.
Apart from this building the Ghosh family also had another similar old building in the locality but as per locals, the building was demolished by the family, and the bricks were sold to meet expenses. This very well could have been the rest of the building mentioned by Capt. Petley in his survey report.
With limited or no maintenance slowly, this building completely lost its charm and is now destined to be wiped off from the face of the earth.
West Bengal Heritage Commission took over the building and planning to restore this building to its formal glory.
Lord Canning and Canning House
The reason why I had visited this place is to assert a direct connection between the last standing building of that era and Lord Canning himself.
Now here lies the main confusion if the building is Canning’s House of Canning House. I have searched through all archive’s and there are no direct references to Lord Canning every staying in this very building.
Moreover in 1862 Lord Canning had left India after his tenure and died on the 17th of June 1862 thus could not logically be present when the Canning Port was being built.
People by word of mouth have misinterpreted Canning House as the house where once Lord Canning had stayed. It was simply a building that was built when Port Canning was being developed as an alternate port.
Also as mentioned above the survey report from Capt. Petley only three residential houses were remaining and the rest were all in ruins. So this one last remaining building could have been either one of them.
Location of Canning
How to visit Canning
You can reach Canning easily by taking the local suburban train from Sealdah (South). There are several direct trains to Canning throughout the day. You can also reach Canning by availing bus services from Esplanade terminus.
With a distance of 50 Kilometres, this place is also ideal for a short drive on a bike or car. Private vehicles can be parked right next to Canning House next to the main road.
Resources
West Bengal Heritage Commission
Times of India
The Hindu
The Calcutta Review – Volume 47
The Bombay Gazette (Government of Maharashtra Archive)
Bengal Under The Lieutenant Governors Vol 1 by S Buckland
A Statistical Account of Bengal by William Wilson Hunter, Herbert Hope Risley & Hermann Michael Kisch
The Calcutta Port Trust by Thacker Spink & Co.
Constable’s hand atlas of India by John George Bartholomew (Boston Public Library)
I had visited this place before the pandemic lockdown and any travel now is only to be done keeping a note of the current situation and necessary precautions.
Serampore College
I visited this place way back in 2001 and back then I had no clue as to why I had to accompany my father’s friend all the way from Kolkata for a trip to Serampore College. He seemed to be very excited about the visit and I for some reason could not figure how a trip to a college would be so exciting considering the fact that he was never a student of that college.
Once there he happily hopped around and spoke to few people in the college office and even managed for a private tour of the campus. The old gentleman who was showing us around was an ex-employee of the college so showed us all around the college campus.
The only thing that I remember was the chair used William Ward which had a very unique look and according to the guide was built specifically for William Ward since he was a printer and needed to move swiftly from left to right for managing the letterpress.
The whole perspective of this college started changing when I was
reading about Serampore and realized that this college was the
foundation of divinity courses not only in India but once in the whole
of South Asia.
Short History of Serampore College
This college was part of the Baptist Mission Society which was established in the year 1800 by William Carey, Joshua Marshman, and William Ward. Most of the missionaries had settled away from the main city of Calcutta (Kolkata) as they were not welcome by the East India Company.
The company was not in the view of educating the native population also they feared uprising from the local religious communities.
So Carey and others had chosen upstream at Serampore which was then a Danish colony. Here along with Joshua Marshman and William Ward on the 15th of July 1818, all three together released a prospectus of a college where students will be taught in Eastern Literature and European sciences. This college will be for Asian Christians as well as others.
In the first year, there were around 37 students and it was started not from the present building that we see but instead from Aldeen House. The construction of the building started with a donation of 2500 Pounds donated by missionaries themselves. Once completed the building cost around 15,000 Pounds.
In 1821 donations were received from the King of Denmark which went towards the construction of the hostel rooms.
In the year 1827 Joshua Marshman was touring Denmark and during that tour managed to get a Royal Charter from Frederick the Sixth the King of Denmark (23rd of February). This helped the college to issue degrees of rank and honors to its students. This made them the first college in Asia to have the power to offer degrees to its students.
Theological Studies
The Senate of Serampore is the only college in India to have the facility to confer Theological degrees.
in 1902 during Madras Decennial Conference different missionary bodies came together and decided to start an Interdenominational Senate and use the Danish Carter that was with Serampore College so that Serampore College can directly confer degrees in Theology.
The Government of India under the British Crown had appointed a Commission to study the possibility of having Theological studies in the existing Indian universities. They concluded that it was not practical to have such departments in any existing Indian University.
Dr. George Howells was the principal of Serampore college in 1907 thought that Serampore College was unutilized to its fullest potential and he believed that theological studies should be started in the college along with the regular courses.
On the 4th of December 1915, the charter was used to confer the Batchelor of Divinity degree to I. W. Johory, Rev. N. G. Kuriakos and Mr. D. N. Bevasahayam.
On the 28th of March 1918, The Serampore College Bill was passed in the Bengal Legislative Council, and on the 1st of May 1918, it was gazetted.
So during that time Serampore College had the authority to confer
theological degrees not only in India but in the whole subcontinent. To
date, it’s the only college in India that can confer theological
degrees.
What to see at Serampore College
The college has two separate educational wings. One which deals in regular classes in Arts, Science, and Commerce streams while the other is that of Theology.
Apart from the office building, hostels, and other administrative blocs the main attraction out here are the Carey House (Principal’s Quarter), Main Building, Carey Library and Museum, Iron Gate, etc.
The whole campus is very well maintained with pristine gardens with palm trees and flowering plants. The first impressive structure that you see right in front (if you enter from the side gate) is the Leechman House which houses the Theology classrooms, staff room, student’s common room, etc.
Leechman House forms one wing of the quadrangle-shaped boys’ hostel. The rest of the three sides are the boys’ hostel with badminton courts and a garden area in the center.
A little up ahead is the Carey House (Principal’s Quarter). This is one of the most impressive buildings in the college compound. This building houses the residential quarter of the principal and guest room.
Next is the main building which was once the Main College Building. On the backside, you will find a small chapel for the residents of the college compound. The front side of the main building is the most impressive structure with the portico supported by eight columns. This is the structure that one can see from the main road.
This main building houses the main hall, library, and other faculties. One of the most impressive structures within this building is the iron spiral staircase. This entrance hall staircase was a gift from the Danish King Frederick VI in 1819.
Along with the staircase the main gate was also gifted to the college by Danish King Frederick VI in 1819.
Next to the main gate is the CLCR building (Carey Library and Research Center). In front of this building, there are three bronze busts of Joshua Marshman, William Carey, and William Ward.
Apart from this, there is the main playground and staff quarters. Across the road, there are other newer faculty blocks and Senate office.
Keeping in mind the pandemic situation prior permission was taken
from the management for photography, research, and other materials.
Location of Serampore College on Map
Other Blogs on Serampore
Henry Martyns Pagoda
Danish Government House Serampore
Mission Cemetery Serampore
Danish Cemetery Serampore
St Olavs Church Serampore
Sources
The story of Serampore and its college by George Howells and A. C. Underwood
Science City The Most prominent Post Colonial land mark of Kolkata
http://jibonerakibuki.blogspot.com/2015/03/a-day-with-science.html
Where is the only Saraswati Temple in West Bengal?
Pushkar in Rajasthan is a place which is associated with Brahma Deva, Here you will find the only temple of Brahma Dev, and also temple of Ma Saraswati also known as 'Sabitri'. It is said in Matsya puran that while creating the universe Brahma dev created 10 men known as ' Manas Putra' and among them was one girl called ' Manas Kanya' She is also known as Devi Saraswati the presiding deity of knowledge and learning.
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This is a beautiful picture album of Barrackpore, India. I was born in Barrackpore, Trinidad, West Indies, now residing in New York, USA and looking for and tracing my roots in India. My Grand Parents, originally from Bihar and Utter Pradesh, left West Bengal Port in 1892. I first visited West Bengal in 2004 and later on January 11, 2011 accompanied then Minister of Overseas Indian Affairs, Hon Vayalar Ravi and Railway Minister, Hon Mamta Barnerjee in installing a memorial plaque in Kidderpore Depot, along the Hoogley River to mark the solemn journey of our one million Indentured Indian Workers who left India for the West Indies. The Kolkata Memorial is a historical monument of our great people presence in the “new world”. We are proud of their vision, courage and sacrifices and today we stand proud on their shoulders.
We will like to establish a program with one each of your Primary and Secondary schools in Barrackpore, India with students in Barrackpore, Trinidad to help establish a “twinning program” where students can correspond with each other to share their experiences and learn about our people, culture and way of life. It will add to their wealth of knowledge.
Again excellent info!
What is the location of the World War II Huts?
You can find some of them at Baigachi. This place had a small airstrip during WWII