https://theroamingshoes.com/2023/11/complete-guide-to-arunachal-pradesh-tawang-circuit-part-1/
– Part 1
Arunachal Pradesh – the land of the rising sun, the heaven where clouds descend to greet the curious travellers and rivers and waterfalls dot the extra green landscape every few meters. Monasteries adorn the hill tops, glimmering lakes under the sun reflect the surreal mountain scapes and high mountain passes offer the thrill to adventure lovers.
Arunachal Pradesh is one place where I truly felt no pictures or videos could ever do justice to its unparalleled beauty. It is only to be experienced in person. So here is a complete guide to help you plan your trip to Arunachal. This is part one of the guide that will contain detailed itinerary along with places to visit and any pointers related to the attractions. For other details such as Permit, Accommodation, Budget and other important info for planning, please refer to Part 2 of this guide.
Daywise Itinerary for Arunachal Pradesh
Here is the itinerary we followed for our Arunachal Pradesh trip.
Day 1: Reach Assam (Guwahati) and drive to Arunachal. Reach Shergaon and stay overnight.
Day 2: Explore Shergaon and drive to Dirang. Overnight in Dirang.
Day 3: Visit Dirang Monastery, Mandala Top and Sangti Valley. Overnight in Dirang.
Day 4: Dirang to Tawang. Visit Sela Pass, Sela Lake, Jaswant Garh War Memorial and Jang Falls on the way. Night stay in Tawang.
Day 5: Visit Bumla Pass and Madhuri Lake. Evening at Tawang Market. Overnight in Tawang.
Day 6: Visit Chakzam and rest of the day for Tawang sightseeing. Overnight in Tawang.
Day 7: Tawang to Bomdilla. Bomdila Sightseeing. Overnight in Bomdilla.
Day 8: Bomdilla to Guwahati. Sightseeing on the way depending on available time. Night stay in Guwahati.
Day 9: Fly back to your city
What would we have done differently
We would have liked to stay one more night in Dirang and explore the place by foot. Or may be visit nearby villages of Lubrang/Thembang. Or simply do nothing sitting by the river and setting up a picnic. There is just so much more to do in Dirang that 1 night may not feel enough, especially if you are someone who likes to take things slow instead of rushing to tick off attractions.
Itinerary breakdown for Arunachal Pradesh
Day 1: Reach Assam (Guwahati) and drive to Arunachal Pradesh. Reach Shergaon and stay overnight.
Fly to Guwahati and start your road trip to Arunachal Pradesh. We recommend taking an early morning flight to Guwahati so that you can reach Shergaon before evening. If you reach Guwahati by afternoon, stay in Bhalukpong for the night and proceed to Shergaon the next day. This will add an additional day to your trip.
Take any of these 2 routes on your way to Shergaon and the other one on the way back. I would definitely recommend the Nameri route at least one way since it’s very scenic.
Route 1: Guwahati → Mangaldai → Orang → Kalaktang → Shergaon
Distance: Approx. 250 kms
Time taken: Approx. 7 hours. But actual time will be more depending on stops made on the way.
Sightseeing: There is not much to see in this route in terms of sightseeing. You can make a stop on the way to see Bhutan border. Apart from lunch break, depending on time, you can make stops in between since its a long journey.
Route 2: Guwahati→ Nagaon → Tezpur→ Nameri → Bhalukpong → Rupa → Shergaon
Distance: Approx. 350 Kms
Time taken: Approx. 8 hours. Actual time will be more depending on what sightseeing you do on the way or the number of stops made.
Sightseeing: Mahamrityunjay Temple at Nagaon, Nameri National Park, Waterfall at Tippi, Lumum Waterfall etc. In my opinion, this route is better taken on your way back (from Dirang/Bomdilla/Shergaon to Guwahati) as it is longer and also you will be able to decide on the sightseeing considering available time.
Most probably it will be evening by the time you reach Shrgaon. Check into your homestay and rest for the night. We reached Shergaon at night since there was a landslide on the Kalaktang route and we had to take a long detour. So we just made a stop at Tippi and proceeded to Shergaon. The highlight of this day was seeing the full moon rise over the mountains amidst lingering sunset colours. It was such a beautiful sight.
Day 2: Explore Shergaon and drive to Dirang. Overnight in Dirang
After breakfast, it’s time to explore Shergaon. Here are a few must visit places in Shergaon.
Shergaon Monastery (Lower Monastery): Start your day by visiting the lower monastery of Shergaon, just at the foothills of Zengbu Gompa. This is a recent addition and is a beautiful place to visit. We met some wonderful locals at this monastery who were having their village meeting. They guided us through the monastery and invited us to join them for some butter tea. So this place will always remain one of my favourites in all of Arunachal Pradesh.
Zengbu Gompa: Though a small one, this monastery dates back to approx. 400 years. Perched on a hill, you can reach here by car (or by walk if you have time). It is just 5-7 mins drive from the lower monastery of Shergaon.
Choskorong Waterfall: After visiting the monasteries, proceed towards Choskorong Waterfall. Its like a hidden treasure that can be reached by a fairly easy hike. If you start from main road, it would take 30 mins, but vehicles can go till the nearby farm. In that case, it is just 10 mins walk to the waterfall. The last stretch is steep, but manageable. And the waterfall surrounded by dense foliage is a treat to the eyes.
Buddha Park: This is not exactly in Shergaon, but in Mushaksing village which is close by. The park is not inaugurated yet and the inside of the monastery is still work in progress. But the Golden Buddha statue outside surrounded by stupas and prayer flags and overlooking the valley is a magnificent sight.
If you have time, try visiting Chillipam Monastery too on this day as it is just 15 kms away from Rupa.
Once the sightseeing is done, proceed towards Dirang which takes 2-2.5 hours from Shergaon. There is a high chance that it would be almost evening by the time you reach Dirang. So check into your homestay and rest for the night.
Day 3: Visit Dirang Monastery, Mandala Top and Sangti Valley. Overnight in Dirang
Start your morning early by visiting Thupsung Dhrgye Ling (aka TDL) Monastery, just a kilometre away from Dirang market. Surrounded by mountains and overlooking Dirang valley, the design and architecture of this monastery is noteworthy. Indeed it is one of the most beautiful monasteries we came across in Arunachal Pradesh. You can also enjoy some coffee and Maggi in the small cafe of the monastery.
Your next destination for the day is Mandala Top. It is about 25 kms from Dirang and takes an hour to reach due to the serpentine uphill road. At the hill top, there are 108 stupas surrounding a Buddha Statue and the place offers amazing views of the distant mountains and valleys. Since we visited in Oct end-Nov time, we could see Autumn colours all around. Do not forget to stop for some chai and momos at the Mandala Cafe on your way down.
After coming back from Mandala Top, finish your lunch in Dirang and then proceed towards Sangti Valley. The valley is around 15 kms from Dirang town and takes 30 mins to reach. It is famous for its fruit orchards, farmland and scenic beauty. In November, we could see Oranges, Kiwis, tomatoes, leafy vegetables and even chillies adorning the valley everywhere. With a river flowing through the valley, it is an ideal place to set up a picnic and spend hours with loved ones. While coming back, visit the Govt. Sheep Breeding Farm, not just for the sheep, but for the lovely views of the valley, especially during sunset. Stay options are also available in Sangti Valley although limited in number.
You will still have sometime left. So visit Dirang Market for some shopping and snacks and then return to your homestay.
Day 4: Dirang to Tawang. Visit Sela Pass, Sela Lake, Jaswant Garh War Memorial and Jang Falls on the way. Night stay in Tawang.
Dirang to Tawang takes around 4 hours covering a distance of approx. 135 kms. But the actual time to reach Tawang will be 6-7 hours or more depending on the sightseeing spots covered on the way. And also the time spent at each spot. So it is advisable to start your day early at around 8-8:30 am.
On the way to Tawang, you can visit the following places.
Sela Pass: At a height of 13700 feet, this place offers some mesmerising views. If you are lucky, you will be able to see clouds descending down and creating a heavenly scene. There is an army run canteen at the pass for a quick bite or a hot cuppa to enjoy in the cool weather.
Sela Lake: Lying in the vicinity of Sela Pass, this stunning lake with crystal clear water reflects the towering mountains like a mirror. There is a walkway constructed around the lake to take a stroll and enjoy its beauty. On the day we visited, the lake looked absolutely surreal reflecting the enchanting blue colour of the azure sky.
Jaswant Garh War Memorial: This war memorial was constructed in the memory of the the 1962 war hero Jaswant Singh Rawat. The brave soldier single handedly fought the Chinese troops for 3 days, killing almost 300 Chinese soldiers. There is a temple for him and a Smriti Sthal cum small Museum that houses his belongings. An army run cafe is just outside the memorial where they serve free tea and water to the visitors.
Nurnang Falls / Jang Falls: If you remember Tanhayi tanhayi… song from the Bollywood movie Koyla, then you have already seen this waterfall on the screen. Still looking at it in person is an experience like no other. A roaring waterfall falling from a height of 100 metres with a full rainbow around it looks absolutely breathtaking. Make sure to visit before 3-3:30 pm max if you want to see the rainbow effect. From the parking place, you need to walk for 5 mins through a set of steps to reach the waterfall.
After visiting the waterfall, proceed towards Tawang. You can have your lunch in Jang town or in the War Memorial canteen as it would be past lunch time when you reach Tawang. If you have time and energy left, spend your evening at the War Memorial and enjoy the Light sound show. Or just rest at your home stay or hotel.
Day 5: Visit Bumla Pass and Madhuri Lake. Evening at Tawang Market. Overnight in Tawang.
For Bumla Pass, you need to take a local taxi from Tawang and a permit from DC office. Both need to be arranged beforehand. So talk to your home stay or hotel in Tawang and get this done before the day of your trip. We recommend starting your trip early, around 7:30-8am so that you can be back by 2:30-3pm.
Bum La Pass trip covers Bum La Pass and Madhuri Lake (Sangetsar Tso). But this trip is more about the journey than the destination itself. The whole route is gorgeous dotted with numerous Lakes (I counted 19), mountains blanketed with Rhododendron plants and at places, the landscape was entirely barren apart from little shrubs here and there.
Madhuri Lake is unique among all other lakes you will come across in this route with dead tree trunks standing vertically inside the Lake. You can easily spend half an hour to one hour at the lake. At Bum La, you get to see the actual Line of Control and thats about it. There is nothing else as such to do there. Indian Army takes people in batches of 10-15 to the Actual Line of Control and brief about history, Indo China war etc. You can even see Chinese Soldiers at the other side of the border.
As soon as you reach Bum La, submit your permit at the counter where they will give you a number and wait for your turn to be taken to the LOC. Enjoy some tea/coffee or Maggi at the Army run canteen as there is no other option for lunch until you return to Tawang. On the way back, you can stop at PTSO lake, or any other point depending on available time.
Once you are back in Tawang, freshen up and after a little rest head to the market. There are 3 markets in Tawang – Nehru Market, New Market and Old Market. We visited Old Market and did a little shopping before finishing dinner and coming back to our home stay.
Day 6: Visit Chakzam and rest of the day for Tawang sightseeing. Overnight in Tawang.
This day is for sightseeing in and around Tawang. We chose Chakzam specifically to see the iron suspension bridge that is approx. 700 years old. If you do not wish to visit Chakzam, you can very well spend the day by visiting other places in Tawang.
Chakzam Bridge and Kitpi Village: Start your day by visiting Chakzam, around 25 kms from Tawang. The drive takes almost an hour with the road being a little bumpy. The main attraction of the place is the iron suspension bridge made on the Tawang Chu river. With a base made of bamboo and supported by iron chains, this bridge is an architectural wonder of the old times. It was made to connect Kitpi and Mukto villages with the rest of Tawang. There is a parallel iron bridge made now for regular commute, but walking on this bridge while the river roared below transports the mind into the ancient era. On the way back, you can make a stop at Kitpi village. During October, Cosmos flowers bloom abundantly in this area.
After coming back from Chakzam, you can visit the following in Tawang.
Khinmey Monastery: Another beautiful monastery to visit in Tawang. It has the statue of Medicine Buddha inside with a very colourful interior. This is not exactly in the main town, but almost 10 kms away. You can visit this on the way back from Chakzam.
Tawang Monastery (Ganden Namgyal Lhatse): After visiting Khinmey, proceed towards Tawang Monastery. The largest monastery in India and the 2nd largest in Asia, this monastery is beautifully sprawled on a hill overlooking Tawang town. With its yellow tin roofed houses, the monastery is prominently visible from different points of the town as you drive through. Inside the monastery compound, there is a museum, a beautiful prayer hall with balconies that allow seeing the Buddha statue up close and then a view point offering stunning views of the town. Expect to spend 45 mins – 1 hour here.
Giant Buddha Statue: The giant Golden Buddha is located on a small hill, just 5 mins drive away from Tawang Monastery. The Golden Buddha on a decorated platform looks stunning with the backdrop of mountains. You can have lovely views of Tawang Monastery from this place. Since there is not much to see here, keep 15 mins before proceeding to the next attraction.
Urgelling Monastery: This is not visited by many as there are a lot of monasteries in Arunachal Pradesh much grander than this. But this is the monastery I strongly recommend to people who like peaceful and historically or religiously important places. The monastery is approx. 600 years old and is the birthplace of His Holiness Dalai Lama the 6th. It also has an interesting story that is written on the monastery wall and the surroundings are absolutely meditative.
Tawang War Memorial and Light Sound Show: The war memorial is built as a Chorten and has names of 2000+ Indian soldiers written on granite plates who were martyred in 1962 war. There are 2 halls inside the memorial that house the belongings of martyrs along with some maps, photographs and weapons.
Before visiting the war memorial, first acquire the Light and Sound Show ticket from the amphitheatre just behind the memorial. The 1st show happens at 5:30 pm and there are subsequent shows later. Each show goes on for half an hour showcasing the beauty of Arunachal Pradesh, its culture and the history of 1962 Indo China war. Once you get the tickets, visit the War Memorial and then come back by showtime to the amphitheatre.
Near the parking spot, do not forget to try the Aloo Chop (my fav Odia snack from Childhood) and chai sold by the army. If you are here around sunset, then this place offers the most beautiful view of Tawang Monastery under the sunset sky.
Light sound show ticket: INR 50 per person
This marks the end of Day 6. Return to your homestay and rest for the night.
For more information on other tourist places in and around Tawang, visit their official website.
Day 7: Tawang to Bomdilla. Bomdila Sightseeing. Overnight in Bomdilla.
Tawang to Bomdilla takes approx. 5 hours. So depending on your journey start time and no. of stops made on the way, you can cover the sightseeing spots in Bomdilla accordingly. Apart from lunch break, we made only 2 quick stops on the way, but had to miss a few things in Bomdilla as we started late from Tawang. So target to reach Bomdilla by 2-2:30 pm to cover everything. Here are a few things to see in Bomdilla.
Bomdilla Monastery: Bomdilla has an upper Gompa, a middle Gompa and a lower Gompa. If you have time and interest, you can visit all. The one we visited was the Upper Gompa which is considered the main monastery and is perched on top of a hill. The drive to the gompa was beautiful and the monastery itself offers lovely views of the valley. We luckily met a monk who was kind enough to explain about the concepts and beliefs of Buddhism and engaged us in a very insightful conversation.
Bomdilla War Memorial: This is a must visit in Bomdilla. Because everyone we met told us about the amazing views this memorial offers due to its location. Also, this memorial holds significant importance as this is the same site where the last battle took place between Indian and Chinese forces. We could not visit the place as it was not open to civilians at that time. You can club this with a visit to the monastery.
Craft Centre and Ethnographic Museum: If you are an art lover, then the Govt Craft Centre in Bomdilla is a must visit. Here you can have first hand experience of how different handicrafts are made. At the same time, buy authentic and good quality items from their shop such as rugs, wooden items, cushion covers, wall hangings etc.
When you are done with the sightseeing, make a stop at Choudhury Tea Stall near to Bomdilla Market for some yummy samosa and chai. Then check in to your home stay and rest for the night.
Day 8: Bomdilla to Guwahati. Sightseeing on the way depending on available time. Night stay in Guwahati.
This is going to be a long journey. So again start early. You can take breaks in between and visit a few places on the way back.
Chillipam Monastery: Like I said before, try to cover Chillipam Monastery when you are leaving Shergaon. Otherwise, it’s a detour and takes time. We had to do it on the way back to Guwahati due to lack of time previously. Nevertheless, this is a monastery you should NOT miss. Set on a hill, it has the most beautiful surrounding and gorgeous views all around. They also have a cafe in case you are in mood for some coffee.
If you are taking the Bhalukpong->Nameri route on the way back, you can visit Lumum Falls. It is located just beside the main road approx. 25 kms before Bhalukpong. Though small compared to the other bigger waterfalls in the state, it is worth making a stop for 10-15 mins.
We also made a stop for a couple of minutes at the river in Nameri National Park, Assam. It’s a beautiful place to spread a picnic or just sit down with feet dipped in the river. If time permits, you can also visit the Mahamrityunjay Temple at Nagaon Assam. Do talk to your taxi driver or travel agent beforehand for these places to be included in itinerary to avoid any last minute conflicts as these are in Assam and not in Arunachal Pradesh.
You can stop for lunch either in Assam or in Arunachal Pradesh depending on time. We stopped at Sessa Hotel in Arunachal, but honestly did not like the food at all. Once you reach Guwahati, check into your hotel and rest for the night.
Day 9: Fly back to your city
We specifically booked a flight for the next day instead of day 8 when we returned to Guwahati. First we did not want to hurry on our last day in Arunachal Pradesh and 2nd we did not want to make it too tiring. If you are okay and have a late night flight available, you can return on Day 8 itself.
This is the end of 8 day long itinerary for Arunachal Pradesh. We have provided as much detail as possible to help you plan your itinerary. If you have further queries, let us know in the comments below.
Part 2
This is Part 2 of our Arunachal Pradesh Guide where we detail every aspect of planning a trip to the state. For detailed itinerary and places to cover, please refer Part 1.
The most important thing – Permit
Inner Line Permit (ILP)
In order to visit Arunachal Pradesh, even Indians need an Inner Line Permit (ILP). Obtaining ILP is a pretty simple process. You can either apply for it online or take help from your travel agent. ILP costs INR 100 per person. You need your identity proof(Aadhar/Driving License/Passport/Voter Id) and passport size photograph for applying ILP. All details of the application process, required documents and photo dimension are given on the website where you apply for the permit.
It is also possible to get your permit at designated check posts in Arunachal . But some days these posts are closed and you may not be able to obtain it immediately, hence delaying the trip. So get your ILP before the trip starts.
For foreign nationals (except tourists from Bhutan), a Protected Area Permit (PAP) is required which is similar to Inner Line Permit. The procedure for availing it is different though and a bit tedious in comparison to ILP. PAP can be obtained from All Indian Mission abroad, concerned state authority and in their absence from the Ministry of Home Affairs. Please read more about PAP in the Govt Website.
Other Permits
Along with ILP, another special permit is required for visiting Bumla Pass. This permit can be obtained from DC office in Tawang a day before. Talk to your hotel or homestay in Tawang and they will be able to help you arrange it. ILP and identity proof is required to apply for this permit.
The Circuit
Arunachal is the largest state among the North Eastern states. Also, being a border state, there are designated circuits that tourists are allowed to visit. So decide on the circuit depending on your preference.
Check all the circuits at https://arunachaltourism.com under Destinations Menu. You can always combine places from one or more circuits to make it a longer trip. Out of all the circuits, Tawang is the most visited one. We chose this circuit for the varied beauty it offers, starting from high mountain passes, to a number of monasteries, lakes and waterfalls.
Whichever circuit you may plan in Arunachal, keep at least 8-9 days in hand for a comfortable trip. Because a lot of your time will be spent on the road commuting from one place to the other. We did Tawang circuit in 8 days.
Reaching Arunachal Pradesh
By Air
Arunachal has 3 commercial airports, biggest one at Itanagar whereas other two are very small. Only Itanagar airport is connected to some of the major cities in India like Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata. In case, your city does not have direct connectivity to Arunachal by flight, the alternative is to fly to either Tezpur or Guwahati airport in Assam. And then rent a taxi for your trip to Arunachal.
Helicopter: Helicopter service is available between Guwahati and Tawang and some other places in Arunachal too. Please note that this is seasonal and highly dependent on weather conditions. Check the schedule and fare here.
By Train
Nearest railway station is Naharlagun/Itanagar, roughly about 4 hours drive from Bhalukpong. But this station is not very well connected with the rest of the country yet. So you may have to catch a train to Guwahati Railway Station and then start your road trip to Arunachal.
Vehicle for Arunachal Trip
We recommend reserving a vehicle for your entire trip, starting from Airport pick up to dropping at the airport. This gives you the flexibility to make stops on the way as you wish and do the sightseeing as per your convenience. This is the most suitable option for families or people traveling in groups. But for budget travellers, this will be expensive. In that case, you have to rely on the shared Sumos. Do remember that the timings of the Sumos are fixed and they normally start early in the morning. Talk to your home stay and they can help you with the timings and seat booking.
Now coming to reserving a vehicle, we went with Guwahati based Silver Line Travels. The owner Niren Ji is very humble, responsive and his prices are reasonable. We got a Honda Amaze for our trip which cost us INR 30000 for 8 days (including pick up from Guwahati airport and drop at Guwahati hotel). The vehicle was new and very smooth for the long journey. The only hiccup was the attitude of the driver who was very impatient if we spent more time at an attraction. So while booking the vehicle, make it a point to the agency if you need more time at places. Because for some of us, it’s not just about seeing a place, but more about experiencing it.
Best time to Visit Arunachal Pradesh
October – Early November is a great time when the weather is pleasant with blue skies and sunny days. Waterfalls and rivers will be at their best after the Monsoon. But there will be no snow in the mountains or high passes.
Late March – Early May is a good time when you can see some snow as well as greenery. Rhododendrons Bloom abundantly (especially April onwards) during this time.
Our time of Visit: Late October-Early November
Avoid Late November as visibility becomes poor due to fog. Not an ideal condition for drive and sightseeing.
Accommodation in Arunachal Pradesh
Accommodation across Arunachal are predominantly Home Stays except a handful of hotels in the major cities (like Tawang). The home stays are pocket friendly and offer excellent opportunity to interact with the locals. We sang with our homestay owner in Shergaon, tasted and understood the rice wine making process and got some amazing recommendations on places of interest. And how can I forget the heart to heart conversation with the most amazing homestay owners in Dirang and that delicious homemade food?
Alternatively, you can also stay in guest houses of monasteries at some places like Dirang and Bomdilla. This is a very unique experience and we strongly recommend it. The prices are affordable too. We stayed in Dirang Monastery guest house (TDL Guesthouse) and honestly it is one of our best stay experiences so far. Sitting in front of the monastery late at night in complete silence or being awed by the night view of the surroundings faintly lit under the moonlight felt absolutely enchanting.
Accommodation booking – Things you need to know
Now coming to the accommodation booking process, here are a few pointers to keep in mind.
- Prebook your homestay at least a month before your trip. The home stays with better location and reviews get booked fast during peak season.
- In Dirang, try and book an accommodation in the Dirang Dzong area. This will give you the opportunity to explore Dirang by foot and enjoy amazing views.
- Many of the home stays are available online for booking on different platforms like MakeMyTrip or Booking.com. But we understood from our home stay owner that if you just book online and do not contact the home stay, your booking may not be confirmed as these sites do not contact the owners most of the time. Also, because of high cancellation rate online, the owners prefer confirmed bookings offline with some advance paid. So book online, but at the same time call the home stay to confirm your booking for which some of them ask a nominal amount as advance.
- Monastery guest houses are not available for online booking. You can call the numbers for the respective guest houses given below for booking.
Dirang Monastery guest house (TDL Guest House): 07640869686
Bomdilla Monastery guest house (Doe-Gu-Khil Guest House): 03782-223232, 9862642199
Budgeting for Arunachal Pradesh Trip
Here is a low-down on the budget for Arunachal Trip. I am not including the cost of flight or train here as it depends on which city you are traveling from.
| Purpose | Cost (in INR) |
|---|---|
| Vehicle for 8 days (We had rented a Honda Amaze) | 30000 |
| Vehicle Charge for Bum La Pass / Madhuri Lake trip (Irrespective of the type of vehicle) | 5500 |
| Accommodation (with double occupancy) | ~ 20000 (2500 avg. per night with double occupancy x 8 nights) |
| Food | ~ 10800 (1200 avg. for 2 people per day x 9 Days) |
| Total Expense For 2 People for 8 nights/ 9 days trip | ~ INR 66200 |
Food and Where
Do try home-made Rice Wine (prepared by collecting vapours of fermented rice), Butter Tea, Thukpa and Momos when you are in Arunachal. I loved butter tea though this may not suit everyone’s taste buds. Ask your homestay if you want to taste butter tea. Because it is not always available in outside shops due to specific methods of preparation.
Also, Churpi (fermented Yak Cheese) sabji if your taste buds can take quirky flavours. I did not dare try this since I am hyper sensitive to strong smell.
Now coming to the places we ate at, here are a few we absolutely loved and recommend.
Dragon Restaurant, Tawang old market: For delectable local and Chinese food. Loved their Thukpa and Veg Chop Suey. Keep in mind that they take their last order by 7:30 pm.
The Lilac, Tawang old market: One of the prettiest cafes we came across in Tawang. The decor with flowers and little booths is absolutely stunning. We were there for a quick snack and loved it. A perfect place for a coffee date or dinner.
Dharma Coffee House: This cutesy coffee house is just a few meters away from Tawang Monastery. They serve Pizza, Sandwiches, Maggi and some local food along with tea and coffee. We loved the veg Pizza and Fried Thentuk with some refreshing Ginger Honey Lemom tea. But more than the food, we loved the aesthetics of the place and the cute library with many books on Buddhism.
Food Hut, Shergaon (Lamu Zurkhi Homestay): The best thali we had in all of Arunachal. The food was tasty, homely and literally soul soothing.
Packing List for Arunachal Pradesh
- Toiletries: Brush, toothpaste, shampoo, shaving kit, Moisturiser etc are essential as home stays do not provide these.
- A good sunscreen: With SPF 50 or above since the the skin is easily tanned at this altitude
- Hairdryer: The home stays usually do not provide hair dryers. And dusty roads and wind make the hair quite oily and unmanageable. So pack a hair dryer if you need head wash every 2/3 days like me.
- Comfortable Shoes: For all the walking involved
- Room Slippers: A must, especially in Winter since the floor gets chilly
- Winter wear: Thermals, Jacket, sweaters, beanie, gloves etc. You will need a lightweight jacket even during April and October time. November onwards, layering becomes necessary. So pack accordingly.
- Powerbank: For your charging needs during power cuts which are quite frequent. We experienced it in Dirang and mostly in Tawang.
- Masks for dusty roads: This is a must for people with dust allergy. Some of the roads are way too dusty due to ongoing roadwork
- Snacks: For the munching needs on long journeys or cozy evenings
- Camera Gears: For capturing the scenic beauty and moments with family
Interesting Facts about Arunachal Pradesh
- Did you know Arunachal Pradesh does not have a script of its own, but many dialects in different regions? That is the reason why Hindi is widely used across the state for communication. Sometimes, even husband and wives communicate in Hindi when they have different dialects. We got to know about it while talking to our homestay owners.
- Home made Rice Wine prepared by collecting vapours (in a special process) of fermented rice is offered as a welcome drink by locals.
Additional Pointers
- During Oct-Nov, sunset happens early around 4:30 pm and it becomes dark by 5pm. Also, sunrise happens early and by 5:30 am, it becomes as bright as 7am. So start your days early (around 7:30-8am) to cover the sightseeing points effectively.
- UPI payments work almost everywhere except a few places where internet connection is poor or internet does not work (like Bum La). So keep some cash handy.
- Airtel and Jio mobile networks worked fine in most of the areas.
- People of Arunachal are some of the most hospitable we have met so far. They help voluntarily without keeping any personal interest. So tip is not expected anywhere.
- Markets of Tawang, Dirang etc are good for buying winter wear. But do not expect the prices to be cheap as they bring the items from other places. I found the cost of items reasonable and the shop owners really friendly. Just to give you an idea, a Yak wool shawl cost me INR 500 and a hand knit beanie INR 300.
Conclusion
Arunachal Pradesh was a very different experience for us. To most places, we go with certain expectations that comes from watching pictures or videos on social media platforms. But for Arunachal, we had hardly seen any pics or videos. And that worked its magic during our trip. There were so many pleasant surprises at every turn bringing immense happiness. So go and experience the unspoilt beauty of Arunachal Pradesh, but with a responsible attitude.
That’s it for now. If you have further queries or have anything to share with us about Arunachal Pradesh, do leave a comment below.
My love affair with Shergaon – The charming hamlet of Arunachal Pradesh
Shergaon – A name I did not know until about recently, must be a month or two before we planned our trip to Arunachal Pradesh. And yet here I am, dreaming of the days we spent in this quaint little village in Arunachal Pradesh. A place blessed with remarkable natural beauty and a temperate climate, but more than that the most wonderful people with hearts of gold. A little stroll under the morning sun, moments of solitude by a waterfall hidden inside the forest and incredible warmth shown by people to two strangers in their land – I fell hopelessly in love with Shergaon.
Why Shergaon became my favourite
The Natural Beauty
Shergaon is blessed with unparalleled natural beauty. It is cradled by lofty mountains. River and brooks with the clearest of water flow joyously through it. Farmlands and fruit orchards brimming with life dot the landscape. Even the wild flowers and different shrubs add so much to the charm of the place. And at some places, man made wooden and iron bridges adorned with prayer flags make it look just like a postcard.
What I loved more is that Shergaon is not yet very commercialised. We did not see too many home stays under construction like we later saw in Dirang. The natural beauty is still intact and it is the perfect place to explore by foot, to take life slow and to relish everything nature has to offer..
The Stay experience
It was late evening when we reached Shergaon. So our first experience of Shergaon was the warm welcome of our hosts into the homestay. After a cup of hot coffee, we joined our hosts by the traditional heater called Bukhari, that is part of almost every home in this cold region. Delicious smelling chicken curry was slowly cooking on the Bukhari and the atmosphere for conversations was set.
Our host offered us some home made rice wine and while we sipped on it, he explained the nitty-gritty of the wine making process from fermented rice. Then the topic shifted to local culture, lifestyle and festivals of the village and how it has helped shape lives in the region. We ended the evening singing together some beautiful Bollywood and Odia oldies and enjoying a hot home cooked meal. It truly felt like being part of someone’s home and we went to bed happy and excited about what Shergaon would reveal the next morning.
The Hidden Waterfall
Choskorong waterfall is like a hidden treasure of Shergaon. I say hidden, because the waterfall is located inside dense foliage away from the main road and is not visible to the outside world. It requires a little hiking (not very difficult) to reach the waterfall. And on the day we visited, there was no other soul around. Just the two of us, sitting under a tree overlooking the falls, entranced by the beauty in front of us. Prayer flags fluttered in the winter breeze. A little birdie was flying around merrily, and the sun peeped through the tree branches swaying in the wind. It felt like a different world, a world away from all the chaos. We stayed there for almost 45 mins enjoying that solitude, with hearts full of gratitude.
It is not just the waterfall that is beautiful, even the walk to that fall offers lovely views, passing by cutesy wooden bridges, streams and a fruit orchard. The orchard looked so colourful with the leaves of the Persimmon trees turned Orange and many trees laden with Persimmons. The last part of the patch was a bit steep, but felt absolutely worth treading when it opened to the view of the waterfall. It took us around 30 mins to reach the fall from the main road. But vehicles can go till the farm and then a 10 min hike can take you to the source of the fall. What an experience it was!
The Monasteries
Shergaon is home to 2 monasteries, Zengbu Gompa on the hill that dates back to almost 400 years and the other one just at the foothills of Zengbu. The latter is a recent addition where locals mainly gather. When we visited, Zengbu Gompa was closed, so we could not see inside. But the surrounding of this gompa is one of the most peaceful we found in all of Arunachal. With forest all around and a wall of prayer flags beside it, the monastery had the most meditative vibes. It is just 5-7 mins drive from the lower gompa. So if you have time, you can even hike to this gompa for a different experience.
While Zengbu Gompa was devoid of any people, the monastery at the foothills was bustling with villagers. They were having their regular Panchayat meeting when we made a stop. One of the villagers showed us inside the monastery and the interiors were tranquil and colourful. He told us about the tribe, their rituals and faith and how things still work like old days in Shergaon. The villagers even invited us to join them for tea and sipping butter tea while talking about life to the humblest people we met, I will say this was the highlight of our Shergaon trip. Our quick visit turned into a longer one, but I would never trade that time for anything else in the world.
The Amazing People
Everywhere in Shergaon, we were greeted with a bright smile and warmth. It felt like HOME, a place where you feel comfortable, welcome and most of all HAPPY. We met a lady in the monastery who gave us two sacred threads wishing us a safe trip. And we had known her not even for 5 mins. The locals that we met at the monastery made us feel like one of their own, sharing their time and life with us, asking about us with genuine interest. Then came the farm worker who led us close to the waterfall when we were confused about the route, making conversations on the way, not expecting anything in return.
Shergaon felt like a different world, where people still live by the fundamental principles of Simple Life and Atithi Devo Bhava (Guest is God). They take pride in their culture, work as a community to protect environment and are honest and hardworking. We felt lucky to have got a chance to experience their hospitality in the little time we had. This I would say was the most fulfilling experience of our whole Arunachal trip.
The Heavenly Buddha Park
I am so thankful to our homestay owner for recommending this place to us. He also guided us about the route as it is still a new attraction and hardly known by tourists or taxi drivers. This park is yet to be inaugurated, but it still looks like a piece of art. A magnificent Golden Buddha statue is seated on an ornate platform on top of the hill, surrounded by several stupas and prayer flags of all colours. The valley view is absolutely gorgeous too. The interiors of the temple are still in progress and may need another month to complete. Even so, this is one of the most beautiful parks we have seen across India.
Google Maps may not work as this place is not yet known to many. It is not exactly in Shergaon, but in in Mushaksing village which is close by. You need to drive till Jigaon and then take right after crossing the bridge. Then drive uphill for almost 20 mins to reach this park.
Conclusion
If I had a chance, I would have liked to spend a couple more days in Shergaon. But in a time bound trip, I was still grateful to have experienced it in the best way possible. I know in my heart, this was not our last visit and I would return back again into the lap of nature, to those forever welcoming people, to take a walk in the village, to eat fresh fruits from its orchards and drink the clearest water from its streams. But for now, I will look back and smile, keeping those precious moments close to my heart.
TDL Monastery Guest House, Dirang – A Distinctive Stay Experience
It was around 10 pm when we both opened our eyes to the dimly lit surrounding. The world around us, cloaked in serene stillness, was occasionally interrupted by the distant barking of a dog. Above, stars twinkled in a satin black canvas with white clouds floating by. In front us, the courtyard flanked by neatly manicured trees led to the entrance of the imposing monastery. And behind it, the silhouette of majestic mountains loomed, their regal forms outlined against the night sky. Here, within the walls of Dirang Monastery, nature, architecture, and spirituality coalesced into an extraordinary tapestry.
Embraced by the meditative ambience, we had drifted into a trance, losing track of time. But as reality seeped in, gratitude surged within us for this profound experience. The opportunity to stay in the monastery guest house had opened doors into the spiritual realm that we had never imagined. And it still stands as a cherished highlight of our Arunachal Pradesh trip.
About TDL Monastery Guest House
The Guest House is part of Thupsung Dhargye Ling (aka TDL) Monastery. This is the new monastery of Dirang, perched on a hill and surrounded by towering mountains. The guest house is sprawled across the 1st and 2nd floor of the monastery complex.
The guest house has 8 private rooms suitable for double occupancy. Each room opens to a balcony, offering great views of Dirang valley as well as the surrounding hills. The rooms are capacious and have simple furnishings. All rooms are equipped with a comfortable bed, adequate blankets and comforters for winter, a table with a pair of chairs and a TV. The tiled bathroom has a western toilet, a wash basin, shower and a geyser. Overall, the accommodation is very comfortable and cost-effective.
Booking and Tariff – TDL Monastery Guest House
Booking accommodation in the guest house can only be done by calling their designated contact number. It is not available on any of the online platforms. Alternatively, you can get in touch with MyNortheast Tours and Travels who can help with the booking. I am providing both numbers below.
- TDL Monastery Guest House: 07640869686
- My Northeast Tours and Travels (Rahul): 8399969227
Tariff:
- INR 1800 + GST for double occupancy without breakfast
- INR 2000 + GST for double occupancy with breakfast
Food
The guest house has a kitchen serving meals as well as tea, coffee and Maggi. The taste is good and prices are reasonable. While non-vegetarian dishes are not available (except egg), there are enough vegetarian options to choose from. They do not serve any local dishes though.
The kitchen’s pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the dining area where you can savour your food with a view. Opening to charming mountain vistas, it provide the perfect setting for chai and Maggi. This is also accessible to people visiting the monastery and not only to the ones staying in the guest house.
What we liked about our stay
Night view and solitude
The main reason we loved our stay at the guest house was the way it felt after sundown. As evening descended, the whole place was transformed from a bustling tourist spot in to a sanctuary of solitude and spirituality. If I said, the monastery was stunning in the day, then it looked purely magical at night. With no other soul around, we just settled down near the stares closing our eyes for a while and meditating. This experience is possible only when you stay in the guest house overnight.
It is not just the spiritual vibe, but also the night views that elevate the whole stay experience. From our room balcony, we could see the town lights at a distance like twinkling stars and the silhouette of the mountains surrounding us in the faint light. The stupa and garden below complemented by fluttering prayer flags and washed in the cool moonlight looked absolutely surreal. It felt like being in a different world where everything was designed carefully for a wholesome experience, a place with the ability to heal even the most troubled minds.
Early morning vibes
Staying in the guest house offers another unique advantage: exclusive access to the monastery in the morning before tourists flock in. Bathed in the soft sunlight, the monastery truly looks like the divine abode of the Gods. Inside, the absence of people allowed us to appreciate the intricate details and the sacred ambience. If you are an early riser, do not miss the mass prayer of the monks that transforms the whole atmosphere.
Additional Pointers
- This is an economical guest house run by a handful of people and not a commercial hotel. So do not expect luxury or service at the same level. Let’s say, you are in the mood for some tea. Then you need to go to the kitchen, order it and bring it to your room. As per dinner, they send it to the room.
- We found the staff of the guest house quite helpful. The young boy who helped us with the luggage was a very humble fella and always catered to the requests with a smile.
- No smoking or drinking is allowed in the guest house premises.
- They do provide accommodation and food for the driver without additional charges.
For us, TDL Monastery Guest House was not merely a place to rest our heads for the night; It also provided the means to connect with nature and our inner selves. This was an experience like no other and will stay in our hearts forever. We genuinely wish for you to encounter the magic of this enchanting place and relish it as we did during our trip.
Drop us a comment if you liked this blog or have any queries on the stay. For more details on our Arunachal Experience, refer the other blogs here.
Note: All prices mentioned in this blog are valid as of Nov 2023
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