Tuesday, July 30, 2024

हैद्राबाद

 https://jogharshwardhan.blogspot.com/2019/08/chowmahalla-palace-hyderabad.html

 Charminar Hyderabad

Charminar is famous landmark of Hyderabad. Foundation of the Charminar was laid down in the year 1589 by Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah who was fifth ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. Shah is said to have prayed here for eradication of cholera which was taking heavy toll of population in the area. Charminar is at the intersection of roads leading to Golconda & Machilipatanam. Both were important trading centers of that era. 

Construction of Charminar was completed in 1592. Around Charminar the city of Hyderabad was developed as capital city in place of Golconda. An interesting folklore says that Shah built the place in memory of Bhagmati whom he met here. Later after conversion Bhagmati became his queen though history guys do not agree with this theory. As at present ASI looks after this monument.
Some snaps: 

Charminar is a square building each side being 20 mtr long & having high arches. Second floor has a mosque 

Lovely high arches in Indo-Islamic style. Persian architect Mir Momin Astarwadi  had an important role in design & construction. The monument is made of granite, lime stone, mortar & pulverised marble. Pulverised marble used in thick plaster gives a smooth & shiny touch 

Clocks were installed on four sides in 1889 

Each Minar is 160 feet high and has two balconies & a dome on the top 

Surrounding area of Charminar is full of small shops & restaurants. On holidays the place is overcrowded  

'Fill this city of mine with people as, 
You filled the river with fish O Lord'
said Qutb Shah in his couplet while laying the foundation of Charminar 

 Chowmahalla Palace Hyderabad

Chowmahalla had been the official residence of Nizams of Hyderabad State and still is of descendants. Originally the spread of the area was 45 acres which has been reduced to 12 acres over time. The place is close to Charminar in old city. The construction work was started in 1750 by Salabat Jung and completed by 1869 during the period of Nizam Asif Jah V.

The name Chowmahalla means Chow = चार or four, and mahalla = महल or palace. There are four palaces here - Afzal Palace, Aftab Palace, Mahtab Mahal & Tahniyat Mahal. All of them are elegant with unique fusion of many architectural styles. 

Northern side has Bara Imam with long row of rooms facing fountain. It had been administrative wing. Opposite side had guest rooms. Some vintage cars & jeeps used by Nizams are also on display here. After careful restoration the place was opened for public in 2005. A part of the complex is used for organising functions.

Entry is by tickets, parking available, guide available. Need half a day to see all of the complex. Remains crowded during holidays. Some snaps:


1. Part of the complex getting spruced up

2. Minarets & designs on wall

3. Row of rooms forming adminstrative wing 

4. Fountain the middle

5. Field Gun

6. Another field gun

7. Beautiful style

8. Clock Tower 

9. Khilwat Clock. It is wound up once a week

10. Rolls Royace Silver Ghost 1912

11, Napier 1906 

12. Vintage Jeeps

13. On 15 Mar 2010 UNESCO had given Merit award for cultural heritage conservation which was received by Princess Esra former wife of Prince Mukarram Jah Bahadur  
14. Way to Tahniyat Palace & vintage cars


 Salar Jung Museum Hyderabad

Salar Jung Museum is located on the southern bank of Moosi River in Hyderabad, Telangana. It has huge & amazing collection of historical artifacts on display. The Museum is housed in two story semi circular buildings. Ground floor has large twenty galleries and first floor has eighteen. The bulding has libraries, reading room, conservation lab, sales counter and cafe as well. Guides are also availble for free at periodical intervals. On holidays Museum gets crowded. Nevertheless must visit place if you are in Hyderabad. 

It all started with Nawab Mir Yousuf Ali Khan, Salar Jung III (1889 - 1949) who was the Prime Minister under Nizam's rule on Hyderabad. He spent a large chunk of his income on collecting artifacts from all parts of the world. He did so for a period of approx thirty five years. Total number of items is said to be over a million pieces. He passed away in 1949 leaving the private collection in Diwan Deodi, his ancestral palace later named as Salar Jung Museum. This was inaugurated by Pt Jawahar Lal Nehru on 16.12.1951. Subsequently in 1968 the Museum was shifted to present premises in Dar-ul-Shifa. It is one of the National Museums now.

Photos of a few items:
Salar Jung III & his personal retinue in clay

Salabhanjika. First or second century AD, Mathura in red stone

Replica of throne of Tut-Ankh-Amun, King of Egypt 14th century BC 

Samurai Warriors of Japan 19th century

Chinese Monks  

Street musician in clay

Wooden passanger bullock cart

British Army formation of WW I

Museum has a Clock Room having large number beautiful clocks & sun dials from many countries. One of them is of particular interest - British Bracket. It has mini mechanical device. Every hour a toy figure comes out from his 'room'& hits the gong & goes back. Large crowd waits for him at say 11 or 12 as he will hit the gong 11 or 12 times.

They have put up cctv screens & placed chairs in lobby so that more people can watch the little fellow hitting the gong. A very popular show indeed 

 Golkonda Fort Hyderabad

Golkonda is a historical Fort in Hyderabad, Telangana. Located on a round granite hill 120 meter high which is about 11 km from Hyderabad City. Fort has palaces, halls, gardens, masques, rsidential quareters of soldiers, stables, magazines etc. Entire length of circumferential wall may be ten km. The wall has eight gates, four drawbridges & 87 bastions. 

2. Entry to the Fort is by ticket & so is the use of camera. official guides are available for a fee. Sound & light show is held in the evenings. The Fort opens at 9 & closes 5.30. Noons are hot here take care. Small restaurant is availble inside. Depending upon interest in history tour of the Fort may take a day or may be a couple of days. Climbing up 400 feet is a bit tough. Interesting features of the Fort are accoustical or sound echo communication, water harvesting, ventilation & of course security managment.

3. In olden times Golkonda was better known for diamonds kept in the vaults rather than as a fort. In nearby Kollur, Atkur and Paritala diamonds were mined. These were cut & sold in Golkonda. Some of the prominent ones are Koh-e-noor, Daria-e-noor, Noor-ul-Ain, Hope, Princie & Regent Diamond. 

4. As with these diamonds passing on to different royalties, the Fort also saw several dynasties occupying it. Foundation of the Fort was laid by Kakatiya kings who ruled from 1163 to 1323. Thereafter came Musunuri Nayakas who stayed up to 1386. Then came Bahmani Sultans who occupied the Fort up to 1527. Qutaub Shahi dynasty ruled till 1687. During this period the Fort was expanded & strenthened.
Aurangzeb attacked, won & Mughals stayed till 1707 though the Fort was severly damaged. After Aurangzeb died Mughal Empire weakened, Nizams took over in 1724 & shifted capital to Hyderabad. Nizams had some understanding with British which allowed them to rule till merger in India in 1948. Some photos:


1. View from Rani Mahal

2. One of the many bastions. Whole complex has large number of  heavy boulders

3. Arches or Mehrabs here are beautiful. High ceilings provided much needed cooling effect 

4. Inside main arches there is particular type of plaster which reflects light. So lesser number of torches & candles were used
5. Sepoy quarters 

6. There are number lawns & gardens which are well maintained 

7. Part of Nagina Bagh

8. Another view of the Fort 

9. Gardens & a view of Hyderabad City

10. Mosque at the top 

11. Another view of the Fort

12. Magazine or Aslahkhana

13. Nagina Bagh

14. High walls meant security

15. Several such pathways have been added for tourists

16. Golkonda is also spelt Golconda or Golla Konda

17. Keep walking!

18. Garden & the city

19. Rain water harvesting. Notice the 3x3 holes which have clay pipes for carrying water collected above

20. Such cavities were used to store water

21. Must have been a beautiful lively place 


 लेपाक्षी मंदिर

आंध्र प्रदेश के अनंतपुर जिले में एक जगह है लेपाक्षी. इसे बड़ा गाँव समझ लें या कस्बा. यहाँ एक सुंदर मंदिर है जिसे आम तौर पर लेपाक्षी मंदिर कहा जाता है पर वास्तविक नाम वीरभद्र मंदिर है जो सोलहवीं शताब्दी में बनाया गया था. उस वक़्त आस पास के इलाके में विजयनगर साम्राज्य था. लेपाक्षी से लगभग 40 किमी दूर पेनुकोंडा में राजा अचुत्या राय थे और लेपाक्षी में दो भाई वीरुपन्ना नायका और वीरन्ना नायका गवर्नर थे. वीरुपन्ना ने 1530 / 1540 में मंदिर का निर्माण कार्य शुरू कराया था.

बंगलुरु से लेपाक्षी की दूरी 140 किमी है और यह स्थान बंगलुरु-हैदराबाद हाईवे से बारह किमी अंदर है. ये सड़क बहुत अच्छी है इसलिए एक दिन के ट्रिप में बंगलुरु से मंदिर आना जाना हो सकता है. यहाँ आन्ध्रा टूरिज्म का इकलौता होटल और रेस्टोरेंट है इसलिए अपना इंतज़ाम करके चलना ठीक रहेगा. कोई टिकट नहीं है. हिंदी या इंग्लिश गाइड मिलना मुश्किल है. लेपाक्षी नंदी, मंदिर और गरुड़ थीम पार्क आधे किमी के दायरे में हैं और पैदल देखे जा सकते हैं. दोपहर की धूप यहाँ तीखी है और चट्टानें गरम हो जाती हैं अपना ख़याल रखें.

मंदिर बनाने की शैली द्रविड़ियन और विजयनगर जैसी है. पूरे मंदिर में खम्बों और दीवारों के एक एक इंच पर कमाल की नक्काशी है. मूर्तियों में ब्रह्मा, विष्णु, शिव, पार्वती, गंगा,यमुना, साधू संत, राजा, नृत्यांगना, संगीतकार, पशु पक्षी, फुल पत्ते इत्यादि हैं. छत पर रंगीन चित्रकारी है जो कहीं कहीं फीकी पड़ गई है.

मंदिर एक ऊँची सी चट्टान पर है जिसकी शक्ल कछुए जैसी है और इसलिए चट्टान का स्थानीय नाम कुर्म सैला है. भारत में सबसे बड़ी नंदी की मूर्ति, सबसे बड़ी नाग की मूर्ति और सबसे बड़ी गरुड़ की मूर्ति यहीं है. प्रस्तुत हैं कुछ फोटो:

1. नागालिंगा: बारह फुट ऊँचा, सात फना नाग. ये मूर्ति मंदिर परिसर में ही है. मान्यता है की मुख्य मूर्तिकार की माँ खाना बना रही थी तब तक उसकी टीम ने ये नाग तराश दिया. परन्तु मुख्य मूर्तिकार की माँ इस बात पर नाराज़ हो गई कि शिवलिंग नहीं बनाया गया इसलिए मूर्ति में दरार पड़ जाएगी. शिवलिंग भी तुरंत बना दिया गया. अगर आप पास जाकर गौर से देखें तो दाएं से तीसरे और चौथे फन के बीच हल्की सी दरार है. शायद फोटो में ना नज़र आये. 

2. नागालिंगा पत्थर के पिछले भाग में गणेशजी और उनकी सवारी चूहा 

3. भारी भरकम नागालिंगा पत्थर पर शिवलिंग की नक्काशी 

4. मंदिर का सबसे पहले बना भाग - शिवलिंग. दो सौ मीटर दूर बना विशालकाय नंदी इसी शिवलिंग की ओर देख रहा है 

5. खुला मंडपम. मान्यता है कि यह मंडप राजा से बिना पूछे बनाना शुरू कर दिया गया था. पर राजा जब अपने टूर से वापिस आये तो बहुत नाराज़ हुए और निर्माण बंद करा दिया गया. वरना इस मंडप में छत होती और शिव-पार्वती की शादी होती 

6. विजयनगर शैली के खम्बे, बरामदा और आँगन. हम्पी, कर्नाटक में भी इस तरह के खम्बे देखे जा सकते हैं  

7. मंदिर का मुख्य प्रवेश द्वार और दीप स्तम्भ 

8. फर्श के पत्थर पर बनी भोजन की थाली. इसमें मूर्तिकार भोजन करते थे 

9. हनुमान का पाँव. इस पाँव की विशेषता है कि इस में हर समय पानी रिस रिस कर आता रहता है. मान्यता है की घायल गरुड़ के लिए हनुमान ने पाँव को पत्थर पर मार कर पानी पीने की व्यवस्था की और गरुड़ को कहा - 'ले पाखी' जिसके कारण नाम हो गया लेपाक्षी   

10. खम्बे चाहे चार मुखी हों या छे मुखी, खम्बे की हर सतह पर सुंदर नक्काशी 

11. मुख्य मंडप की छत पर रंगीन चित्रकारी 
12. छत पर राम, कृष्ण और उस समय के राजाओं से सम्बंधित चित्र हैं   

13. मंदिर में सत्तर खम्बे हैं जिनमें से ये एक खम्बा फर्श से जुड़ा नहीं है बल्कि लटक रहा है. खम्बे और फर्श के बीच से अखबार या चुन्नी को निकाला जा सकता है. अंग्रेजों ने इसे हिलाने की कोशिश की परन्तु साथ वाले दूसरे खम्बे हिलने लगे और ऐसा लगा कि छत गिर जाएगी. उसके बाद इस खम्बे से छेड़खानी नहीं की गई

14. खम्बों पर देवी देवता, संगीतकार, नृत्य और राजाओं से सम्बंधित सुंदर नकाशी 

15. भृंगी, नृत्य गुरु विभिन्न मुद्राओं में  

16. ब्रह्मा 

17. विरुपन्ना नायका  

18. गाय के एक शरीर पर तीन सिर

19. सुसज्जित लेपाक्षी नंदी. 20 फीट ऊँचा और 30 फीट लंबा. वहां लगे ASI के बोर्ड के अनुसार भारत का सबसे बड़ा नंदी  
20. पीछे गरुड़ की बड़ी मूर्ति है जहां एक थीम पार्क बनाया जा रहा है. मान्यता है की सीता को ले जाते हुए गरुड़ घायल हो कर यहीं गिरा था 
21. थीम पार्क 

22. नंदी के पास एक तालाब में गुलाबी कमल  

 ओर्वाकल रॉक गार्डन, आन्ध्रा

ओर्वाकल एक गाँव का नाम है जो आन्ध्र प्रदेश में है. यहाँ एक सुंदर सा गुलाबी चट्टानों वाला रॉक गार्डन है जिसे Orvakal Rock Garden कहते हैं. कई जगह इसका नाम बंगलुरु और मैसूरू की तर्ज़ पर ओर्वाकल्लू-Orvakallu भी लिखा देखा था. ये रॉक गार्डन कुरनूल शहर से 20 किमी, बंगलुरु से 370 किमी और हैदराबाद से 250 किमी दूर है. अगर आप NH 44 से बंगलुरु या हैदराबाद जा रहे हैं तो ऐसी गुलाबी चट्टानें सड़क के दोनों और नज़र आएंगी. एक साइड पर बड़ी मशीनों से माईनिंग होती भी दिख सकती है.

ये आड़ी तिरछी गुलाबी चट्टानें quartz और silica की हैं जो छूने से नरम, चिकनी और चलने में फिसलन वाली हैं. इन चट्टानों का पाउडर कांच बनाने के में काम आता है. और इसलिए कम्पनियां बड़ी मशीनों से खुदाई में लगी हुई हैं. पता नहीं इस खुदाई से पर्यावरण को कोई ख़तरा है या नहीं.

बहरहाल राजमार्ग के एक तरफ आन्ध्रा टूरिज्म - APTDC, द्वारा एक हजार एकड़ में रॉक गार्डन बनाया गया है. यहाँ एक रेस्तरां, दस कॉटेज का होटल और बच्चों के झूले वगैरा लगा दिए गए हैं. दर्शकों के लिए चट्टानों के बीच से तीन किमी लम्बा घुमावदार रास्ता भी बना दिया गया है. चट्टानों के बीच पूल भी है जहां बोटिंग की जा सकती है. कुछ और काम अभी जारी हैं. अगर आप जाएं तो दोपहर की तीखी धूप से बचें. उगते और ढलते सूरज में नज़ारा बड़ा सुंदर लगता है.

सुंदर जगह होने के कारण यहाँ कई फिल्मों की शूटिंग भी हुई है जिनमें बाहुबली भी शामिल है. पर कुछ फ़िल्मी यूनिट यहाँ अपना कचरा और प्लास्टर ऑफ़ पेरिस भी फेंक गए जो यहाँ की चट्टानों के लिए अच्छा नहीं बताया जाता. प्रस्तुत हैं कुछ फोटो:

1. Quartz and silica rocks 

2. पैदल रास्ता 

3. अभी काम जारी है  

4. अनोखी और मजेदार शक्लों वाली चट्टानें 
5. पेड़ की जड़ों और पत्थर की जंग  

6. चट्टानों के बीच में पानी रुकता है इसलिए हरियाली भी है 

7. लोहे की नकली चिड़ियाँ लगा दी गई हैं जो जची नहीं 

8. बेंच लगे हैं आप बैठ कर सीनरी का आनन्द लें 

9. कई भरी भरकम पत्थर भी हैं 

10. ये पत्थरों का शहर है 

11. धूप बड़ी तीख़ी है यहाँ  

12. I am the master of all I survey

13. धूप छाँव

14. रेस्तरां. पत्थर की कुर्सियां, पत्थर के टेबल, पत्थर की छत और पत्थर का फर्श  

15. हरियाली और रास्ता 


16. मुसाफिर 

 कोंडा रेड्डी बुर्ज, आन्ध्र प्रदेश

कुर्नूल शहर तुंगभद्रा नदी के किनारे बसा शहर है और आन्ध्र प्रदेश में है. कुर्नूल शहर का इतिहास काफी पुराना है और खोज में मिली जानकारी के अनुसार बारहवीं शताब्दी में यहाँ चोला और तेरहवीं शताब्दी में काकातिया वंश का राज रहा है. कुछ समय यहाँ जागीरदारी की प्रथा भी रही. सोलहवीं शताब्दी में कुर्नूल विजयनगर साम्राज्य के आधीन हो गया था. इस विजयनगर साम्राज्य के शासक अच्युता देव रायलु ने यहाँ 1530 - 42 में कुर्नूल किले का निर्माण करवाया था. सत्रहवीं सदी में कुर्नूल मुगलों के आधीन हो गया और उसके बाद से कमोबेश यहाँ नवाबों का राज रहा जो 1947 तक चला. '47 के बाद कुर्नूल चार साल तक आन्ध्रा की राजधानी भी रहा.

कुर्नूल से 24 किमी दूर एक जगह है आलमपुर जहाँ के अंतिम राजा थे कोंडा रेड्डी ( 1597 - 1643 ). कोंडा रेड्डी नवाबों के लिए सिर दर्द थे. एक लम्बी लड़ाई के बाद कोंडा रेड्डी को कुर्नूल के नवाब ने गिरफ्तार कर लिया और कुर्नूल के इस किले में बंदी बना दिया. मान्यता है कि कैद में रहते हुए राजा कोंडा रेड्डी ने नदी तक एक सुरंग खोद ली और बाहर निकल गए परन्तु अगले युद्ध में मारे गए. उनके सम्मान में इस बुर्ज को कोंडा रेड्डी बुरुजू कहा जाता है. किले का काफी बड़ा भाग बाढ़ में बह चुका है. कुछ फोटो:

1. कुरनूल किले का कोंडा रेड्डी बुर्ज जिसका स्थानीय नाम कोंडा रेड्डी बुरुजू है. किले का यही भाग बचा हुआ है बाकी दो तिहाई से ज्यादा हिस्सा बाढ़ में बह गया है  

2. कोंडा रेड्डी बुर्ज कुर्नूल शहर के बीचों बीच है 

3. ऐसा कहा जाता है की किले में खजाना भी दबा हुआ था पर अब तक की कोशिशें बेकार गईं हैं 

4. बुर्ज की बेसमेंट दर्शकों के लिए बन्द है 

5. बुर्ज की दो मंजिलें खुली हैं समय सुबह 9 बजे से शाम 6 बजे तक 

6. कुर्नूल स्टेशन से केवल दो किमी दूर है 

7. किले का प्रवेश 

8. नोटिस बोर्ड 






Marco Polo in Golconda

Marco Polo in Golconda

Marco Polo said these about the riches of Golconda when he visited Queen Rudrama Devi of Warangal in 1292 AD “the flower of the diamonds and other large gems, as well as the largest pearls, are all carried to the great Kaan and other kings and princes of those regions. In truth they possess all the treasures of the world.”*

I have travelled to Hyderabad quite a few times but have never managed to visit any of its landmark. This all changed in 2013 when I had a real wonderful likeminded colleague travel with me to Hyderabad. It was an official trip scheduled for three days but a chance of luck made us finish the necessary meeting within a two days and we had a full day free for us with our flight back to Kolkata late evening.

Nothing was planned beforehand so everything had to be decided spontaneously and together with a common acquaintance Narasimha who happened to be a localite we decided to go to Golconda Fort. I never like to travel in a four wheeler as I do not get to feel the city and was lucky enough that Narasimha managed to get a motorbike from his friend and along with his own motorbike we set off to Golconda Fort.

Hyderabad traffic can be nightmare sometimes but since I am well used to riding bike in a city like Kolkata could easily manage to navigate. Journey did not go smoothly as planned, Narasimha’s bike ran out of petrol so we had to stop midway and help him push along to the nearest petrol station. These are all a part and parcel of the fun which I really seem to enjoy whenever I am travelling and I do not feel them as a show stopper.

Golconda Fort

Finally we reached Golconda Fort and parked our motorbikes outside in a well designated parking lot. Golconda Fort is under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) thus its very well maintained when compared to other heritage structures. At the very entrance you can see a layout map with well-marked sections of the fort. This is quite helpful if you do not wish to take the service of a guide then you can roam around freely at your leisurely pace.

Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Guide Map of Golconda Fort by ASI
Guide Map of Golconda Fort by ASI

Kohinoor

Golconda was once the capital of Qutb Sahi Dynasty and once known to be the fort where nearly seven famous diamonds were stored in its vaults. These include Koh-i-Noor, Hope Diamond, Daria-i-Noor, Noor-ul-Ain, Princie Diamond, Regent Diamond & Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond.

Diamonds of Golconda
Koh-i-Noor – maharajaranjitsingh.com, Hope Diamond – CSvBibra Wikipedia, Daria-i-Noor – Pemies Wikipedia,
Noor-ul-Ain – Magnus Manske Wikipedia, Princie Diamond – Forbes, Regent Diamond – Louvre
Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond – Borvan53 Wikipedia

History

Originally built by the Kakatiya dynasty from 945-70 the fort transfer hand to the Bahmani Sultanate in 1364 and later to the Qutb Sahi Dynasty in 1507. In 1687 Mughal Empire under Aurangzeb lay siege to the fort and drove the last nail to its coffin. Golconda formed a part of the Hyderabad State which was under Nizam of Hyderabad from 1724 – 1948.

Spread across eleven kilometres Golconda is actually a series of four forts whish are placed around a small hillock. Some of it is in ruins but some portions are quite remarkably well maintained. Various structures can be easily spotted which include Mosques, Temples, Archway, Halls, Rooms of different size etc.

Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort
Golconda Fort

Bala Hissar Gate – Golconda Fort

This gate welcomes you to the fort with its beautiful intricate designs and peacock motifs. Located on the eastern side of the fort this arched gate truly depicts the perfect fusion of Islamic and Hindu architectural styles.

Bala Hissar Gate
Bala Hissar Gate

Fateh Darwaza – GOLCONDA FORT

This is the most famous of the well preserved structure, this is basically a huge gigantic gate with iron spikes to prevent Elephants ramming into them. It was named Fateh Darwaza after the victory by Aurangzeb’s army who happened to march through this gate. You will surely find guides clapping their hands to demonstrate acoustic warning system which worked like a warning signal to a distance of nearly a kilometre.

Fateh Darwaza
Fateh Darwaza

Taramati Mosque – GOLCONDA FORT

From the entrance you can clearly see the Taramati Mosque which literarily stands out in front of the stoned fort ruins. Its yellowish textured walls glows with the stone background.

Taramati Mosque
Taramati Mosque – Bgag Wikipedia

You will definitely see the lush green grass and the gardens across the whole fort which gives you an idea of the grandeur which once it was. You will feel walking alongside the garden where once prince and princesses roamed around feeling the aromatic air of the garden flowers.

Lush Green Gardens around Golconda Fort
Lush Green Gardens around Golconda Fort
Flowers around Golconda Fort
Flowers around Golconda Fort

With stone arches all around you will definitely marvel the architecture styles, some of them still exists in somewhat good condition to get an overall feel. Some of the rooms have domes which have white plaster over them and the rays of the sun paints a beautiful hues of yellow and green on them.

Rooms inside the Fort
Rooms inside the Fort
Well Maintained Plastered Walls inside the Fort
Well Maintained Plastered Walls inside the Fort
Different Sections of the Fort
Different Sections of the Fort
Arches inside the Fort
Arches inside the Fort
Different Sections of the Fort
Different Sections of the Fort
Different Sections of the Fort
Different Sections of the Fort

Baobab Tree

Surprisingly there is also a Baobab Tree inside the extended portion of the “Naya Quila” of Golconda Fort, I have recently written a blog about Baobab Tree which is present in plenty in Western Africa but very few are here in the Indian mainland and this is one of the few. Locally it’s known as “The Elephant Tree” or “Hatiyan ka Jhad”, this may be due to its appearance which closely resembles an elephant trunk according to me.

Baobab Tree
Baobab Tree inside the New Fort – The Hindu

Other important landmark inside the fort are Rani Mahal, Ambar Khana, Ibrahim Mosque etc. You can also find old canons of different sizes around the fort, this gives you an overall view of the defence that was present within the fort.

Ambar Khana
Ambar Khana – Bgag Wikipedia
Ibrahim Mosque
Ibrahim Mosque – Anupamg Wikipedia
Rani Mahal
Rani Mahal – Bgag Wikipedia
Cannons inside the Fort
Cannons inside the Fort
Cannons inside the Fort
Cannons inside the Fort

One needs to climb a few stairs and you will reach the top of the fort which houses the Baradari. From here you would get a 360 degree view Hyderabad city (outskirts). You can also find many devotees visiting the Jagadamba Mahakali Temple, nestled between boulders this temple is as unique as its surroundings.

Baradari
Baradari atop the Hill
Stairs to the Top
Stairs to the Top
Stairs to the Top
Stairs to the Top
Baradari
Baradari
Baradari
Baradari – Bgag Wikipedia
Jagadamba Mahakali Temple
Jagadamba Mahakali Temple – MathewTownsend Wikipedia
View from Top of Golconda Fort
View from Top of Golconda Fort
360 Degree View from Top Golconda Fort
360 Degree View from Top Golconda Fort
360 Degree View from Top Golconda Fort
360 Degree View from Top Golconda Fort

Many portions of the fort can also be seen in need of some urgent repair. While some walls have collapsed and some portions which can be made out to be different sections of the fort are inaccessible. Considering the age of the fort this is natural as years of exposure to weather has loosened the rock foundation.

Broken Portion of a Wall
Broken Portion of a Wall
Some of the Inaccessible Portions
Some of the Inaccessible Portions
Some of the Inaccessible Portions
Some of the Inaccessible Portions
Some of the Inaccessible Portions
Some of the Inaccessible Portions

Looking at all these now I realise why Marco Polo an Italian Merchant said what he said after visiting India. This place in its original getup would have truly looked marvellous. Along with the wealth that this region generated from the Diamond Mines I am sure the fort would have stood out. In its heydays the word Golconda got associated with wealth and fortune. Even till date most of the famous diamonds are originally from this region.

The following is and extract from The Travels of Marco Polo by Marco Polo, translated by Henry Yule.

It is in this kingdom that diamonds are got; and I will tell you how. There are certain lofty mountains in those parts; and when the winter rains fall, which are very heavy, the waters come roaring down the mountains in great torrents. When the rains are over, and the waters from the mountains have ceased to flow, they search the beds of the torrents and find plenty of diamonds. In summer also there are plenty to be found in the mountains, but the heat of the sun is so great that it is scarcely possible to go thither, nor is there then a drop of water to be found. Moreover in those mountains great serpents are rife to a marvellous degree, besides other vermin, and this owing to the great heat. The serpents are also the most venomous in existence, insomuch that any one going to that region runs fearful peril; for many have been destroyed by these evil reptiles.

Now among these mountains there are certain great and deep valleys, to the bottom of which there is no access. Wherefore the men who go in search of the diamonds take with them pieces of flesh, as lean as they can get, and these they cast into the bottom of a valley. Now there are numbers of white eagles that haunt those mountains and feed upon the serpents. When the eagles see the meat thrown down they pounce upon it and carry it up to some rocky hill-top where they begin to rend it. But there are men on the watch, and as soon as they see that the eagles have settled they raise a loud shouting to drive them away. And when the eagles are thus frightened away the men recover the pieces of meat, and find them full of diamonds which have stuck to the meat down in the bottom. For the abundance of diamonds down there in the depths of the valleys is astonishing, but nobody can get down; and if one could, it would be only to be incontinently devoured by the serpents which are so rife there.

There is also another way of getting the diamonds. The people go to the nests of those white eagles, of which there are many, and in their droppings they find plenty of diamonds which the birds have swallowed in devouring the meat that was cast into the valleys. And, when the eagles themselves are taken, diamonds are found in their stomachs.

So now I have told you three different ways in which these stones are found. No other country but this kingdom of Mutfili produces them, but there they are found both abundantly and of large size. Those that are brought to our part of the world are only the refuse, as it were, of the finer and larger stones. For the flower of the diamonds and other large gems, as well as the largest pearls, are all carried to the Great Kaan and other Kings and Princes of those regions; in truth they possess all the great treasures of the world.

Catalan Atlas depicting Marco Polo traveling to the East
Catalan Atlas depicting Marco Polo traveling to the East – Ludo 29 Wikipedia

By now we were tired and hungry thus decided to move ahead to our next destination the famous Char Minar. Before that we of course stopped for some sumptuous Hyderabadi Biriyani and Shahi Tukda.

Hyderabadi Biriyani
Hyderabadi Biriyani – Dheerajk88 Wikipedia
Shahi Tukda
Shahi Tukda – Rockstarswapnil Wikipedia

All this blogging and photographs of food is making me hungry now, need to refuel myself. Till then keep visiting my blog and wait for my next adventure.

p.s. We were caught by the Hyderabad Traffic Police for riding a motorbike without a valid Pollution Certificate. Had to pay fine else they were about to confiscate my driving licence. So please drive safe and follow the traffic rules including carrying necessary valid documents.

* Marco Polo Quote Reference – A Guide to Golconda Fort and Tombs by Sha Rocco
Header Image Background – Tombs and Fort, Golconda, a drawing by Philip Meadows Taylor, c.1830* (British Library)




























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