https://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/agra-exploring-the-treasures-of-mughal-architectural-splendour/
Introduction
Agra is the perfect destination to see the jewels in the crown of Mughal architecture. Some of their masterpieces in the form of magnificent monuments are in Agra. Mughal architecture found its zenith in the form of Taj Mahal (‘crown among the palaces’). It is a timeless saga of splendour.
I read the following line somewhere and felt that it resonates so closely to my own thoughts.
“Fill your life with beautiful travel experiences. Have stories to tell not stuff to show”
So I travel and through my blogs narrate interesting stories about beautiful places of India. I think everyone of you would have visited Agra and have a story to tell but the perspectives change. So sit back & enjoy the many delights of Agra through my eyes & lens.
Agra – a historical journey
It’s hard to believe that the dirty, dusty, crowded & chaotic city of Agra was the most important city of Indian sub-continent for nearly 150 years during the Mughal era.
Agra first finds a mention in Mahabharata as Agravena. There is no historical record after that and it was first established during the reign of Sikandar Lodi. Sultan Sikandar Lodi (r. 1489-1517 CE), the Afghan ruler of Delhi Sultanate in 1504 made Agra the seat of his government. He developed the city of Sikandara on the left bank of Yamuna and built a Baradari of red sandstone. Later Jahangir converted it into the tomb of Maraiam-ur-Zamani, Akbar’s empress. After Sikandar Lodi, his son Ibrahim Lodi ruled from Agra. Mughal Emperor Babur defeated & killed him in the first Battle of Panipat in 1526.
Agra under the Mughals
Babur didn’t like Agra much. Yet he made it his capital and laid the first Mughal garden Aram Bagh (Garden of relaxation) in Agra. Humayun’s reign was short-lived. Thereafter for a brief 9 year period, Agra was under Sher Shah Suri.
Agra’s golden age began after Akbar became the emperor in 1556. During his long reign of 49 years, he built the modern city of Agra on the right bank of Yamuna. Agra became a great centre of political, economic & cultural importance. Akbar also built a new magnificent capital city Fatehpur Sikri, 35 kms from Agra. It was abandoned after some years. The prime reason for abandoning it was lack of water resources for a large population. The capital moved back to Agra and it continued to flourish. It became one of the biggest cities of the East with huge amounts of trade happening through its bazaars.
The later years
English traveller Ralph Fitch who visited Agra in 1585 writes “Agra is very great city and populous, built with stone, having fair and large streets with a fair river running by it …… much greater than London … “ Another European traveller William Finch corroborated this.
Agra continued to expand during the reign of Jahangir and Shah Jahan. Shah Jahan built a new capital city Shahjahanabad in 1648 (now known as Old Delhi). When Aurangzeb assumed power in 1658, he finally moved his capital & court to Delhi. Though the importance of Agra remained largely unaffected as it was referred to as the second capital.
During the reign of the Mughals several magnificent buildings were built in Agra. They include Agra Fort, Akbar’s Mausoleum, Itmad-ud-daulah and Taj Mahal.
With the decline of Mughal empire, Agra’s control changed several hands. It passed from Mughals to Jats to Marathas before it finally came under the East India Company. It was looted and the city saw a rapid decline. After Independence it became part of the State of Uttar Pradesh.
Agra as a tourist destination
Because of the presence of a gem like Taj Mahal, Agra became an internationally known city. It rates among the top tourist destinations of the world. Both Taj Mahal & Agra Fort were declared as UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1983. Taj Mahal was also included in the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. Agra is a must visit destination for every international tourist coming to India. The roads & infrastructure around these monuments are kept in very good condition. Though the old populous city has seen little improvement.
I sometimes wonder that if Agra was included in Madhya Pradesh or Rajasthan, it’s condition would have been much better!
Lure of the Taj Mahal
Taj Mahal has an irresistible charm about it that leaves you spellbound. The moment you enter through a majestic, dimly lit 30 metres high gateway, Taj in all its splendour stands before you. Your heart skips a beat. The breathtaking sight leaves you in awe. It stuns you with its architectural & aesthetic perfection. Your gasp of marvel & wonder joins the collective gasps of many others around you in the hush that prevails!
No wonder many Heads of States & Monarchs who visit India take out time to make a visit to the Taj. If you ask 10 foreigners which image came in their mind if they were to think about India, I bet 9 out of them would answer Tajmahal. So many superlatives have been used to describe it and so many pictures have been seen that many approach it with trepidation that they would be disappointed. Yet the disappointment is rare. Taj is one of the most visited & most photographed monuments of India. It is made in ivory white marble.
An emperor’s grief
You wonder about the vanity of an emperor who was deeply in love with his favourite wife. When she died while giving birth to their 14th child, he was heart-broken and was in mourning for two years. The court historian writes that such was the grief of the emperor that his beard turned grey over-night! During the period of mourning there was no music, no feasting and no celebration! A historian wrote that their love was not just about passion but it was a meeting of same minds. She was also his political adviser.
Shah Jahan’s dream
A great builder and lover of art, Shahjahan decided to build a mausoleum for his beloved wife Arjumand Bano Begum (Mumtaz Mahal), a Persian princess. Mumtaz Mahal means “Jewel of the Palace” or “Chosen One of the Palace”. He wanted the mausoleum to be the most beautiful building in the world. The construction began in 1632. It is said that more than 20,000 labourers and craftsmen toiled for more than 21 years. They built a monument that till date has no parallel in the world. Architects, masons, carvers, stone-cutters, painters, calligraphers, inlayers and several skilled craftsmen were commissioned from several princely states. Some came from Afghanistan & Ceylon (Sri Lanka).
Enticing charm of Taj Mahal’s architecture
Taj’s awe-inspiring effect comes from its symmetrical perfection, the choice of marble as the construction material and its ornamentation. The tomb stands elevated on a 5.5 metres high plinth and a 95 metres wide platform. There are four slender kiosk-crowned minarets at four corners. Not many are aware that the minarets tilt a little outwards (not visible to naked eyes). This was done purposely so that during a natural calamity, the minarets do not fall on to the mausoleum. Entry to the octagonal central chamber is through a high-arched door. Within lie the cenotaphs of the Emperor & his wife. The emperor’s cenotaph disturbs the symmetry of the interior because it was originally not intended to be there. The actual graves are in a crypt below not accessible to public.
43 different precious & semi-precious stones were used for the decorative inlay work of motifs of flowering plants. They were sourced from various parts of Asia. Jade, amber, turquoise, chrysolite, amethyst, agates & malachite came respectively from China, Burma, Tibet, Egypt, Persia, Yemen & Russia. Diamond, pearls, jasper were sourced from various parts of India.
Different moods of Taj
Light is naturally absorbed and reflected off the colour & texture of the marble. It produces different tonal effects with the changing angles and brightness of the sun, even in mist & darkness. The brilliant translucent marble dazzles in the bright sun, blushes softly at sunrise & sunset and glows ethereally in moonlight. On full moon nights, the silver light makes it float away against the star-spangled sky. Monsoon clouds give it a moody blue tint. At different times Taj can look fragile, ethereal, white, amber, grey or gold. The many moods of Taj display the enticing power of architecture at its best.
Shah Jahan’s tragedy
Unfortunately when it was completed in 1652, the creator couldn’t admire his labour of love for long. Aurangzeb had put Shah Jahan under house arrest in Agra fort. He had usurped the throne by killing his brothers and deposing his father. Shah Jahan could only get a glimpse of Taj across the Yamuna from his prison-cell. After his death in 1666, he was also buried next to his wife and his tomb also lies in the Taj Mahal.
Taj- embodiment of everlasting love
The Taj Mahal is no doubt the greatest embodiment of love. Lovers for centuries have treated it as iconic symbol of everlasting love. They profess to meet here every evening. The opening lines of a beautiful ghazal by Rajendra Mehta captures this yearning to meet at Taj:
“जब आँचल रात का लहराए
और सारा आलम सो जाए
तुम मुझसे मिलने, शमा जलाकर
ताजमहल मे आ जाना”
This was a beautiful tribute by the ghazal maestro to this iconic embodiment of love of a heart-broken emperor.
It is said that Ustad Bismillah Khan once played the shehnai at the Taj on Sharad Purnima night. The young crowd of lovelorn couples was in raptures.
Legends / beliefs /myths
The belief holds that Shah Jahan planned a mausoleum for himself in black marble across the Yamuna river. The two structures were to be connected by a bridge. The idea originates from fanciful writings of Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, a French traveller who visited Agra in 1665. Tavernier has written that the place of Shahjahan’s proposed tomb was Mahtab Bagh (Moon Garden). He is believed to have made six voyages to Persia & India in his life time.
There is a myth associated with Taj which is quite grotesque. After completion of Taj, Shah Jahan ordered the hands of the craftsmen/ artisans be cut-off and eyes taken out. This was to prevent them from building or watching another monument more beautiful than Taj. There seems to be no truth in this as there is neither any historical record nor empirical evidence suggesting this. But the myth has survived for decades as it adds a measure of mystery to the story of the Taj.
The bad Englishman & the good Englishman
There is a shocking historical fact that is not known to many. After the decline of the Mughals, the Jats had controlled Agra for sometime and later after the 1857 Mutiny, it was occupied by British army. During that period they stole the gold, silver & precious stones from Taj. Taj remained neglected for a long period and shrubs & grass grew around it. In 1830, the then Governor-General of Bengal, Lord William Bentinck hatched a plot. He proposed to dismantle the Taj and ship the marble to London to be sold. Fortunately, good sense prevailed and the plot didn’t succeed. Taj survived by a whisker. Later, Lord Curzon who became the Viceroy of India in 1900, had the Taj restored.
UNESCO citation while giving World Heritage Site tag:
“Taj Mahal represents the finest architectural and artistic achievement through perfect harmony and excellent craftsmanship in a whole range of Indo-Islamic sepulchral architecture. It is a masterpiece of architectural style in conception, treatment and execution and has unique aesthetic qualities in balance, symmetry and harmonious blending of various elements”.
My visit to Taj
I had visited Taj for the first time many years ago as a college student with my cousin. At that time public was allowed in Taj till midnight on a full moon night to enjoy the beauty of Taj in its full glory. What an awesome, magical & thrilling experience it was watching the Taj by the moonlight. The second visit was a couple of years ago when we were in Agra for a family wedding. We were there for three days and I sneaked out for a full day to explore Agra.
Enjoy the pictorial tour of the Taj Mahal
~Sir Edwin Arnold, English Poet.
~ Bayard Taylor, American Novelist
~ Hodges, British painter
“Only let this one teardrop, this Taj Mahal , glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of time, forever’
Agra Fort
After spending over two hours at the Taj Mahal, I was on my way to another UNESCO World Heritage Site. My next destination was the majestic & sprawling Agra Fort. As you approach the fort, the high red sandstone walls loom over the Yamuna river. Behind the bastions lie a beautiful world of marble pavilions, landscapes gardens, palaces & mosques. The third Mughal emperor, Akbar built this majestic citadel and gave Agra a new name – Akbarabad. Abul Fazal, the royal chronicler has recorded the instructions of Akbar. “He gave directions for building a great fortress such as worthy thereof and correspond to the dignity of his dominions..”
Design of the Fort
Akbar chose this site because the river acted as a natural moat. There existed an earlier brick fort built by the Lodis which was demolished. According to Akbarnama, more than 3000 masons & skilled workers were employed in building this stone fort. The red sandstone walls rose to a height of 22 metres and stretched a distance of over a kilometre. Jahangir in his memoirs has noted that the fort and the buildings within it cost the exchequer Rs 3.5 million! On the city side a moat ran through two layers of high protective battlements. The fort has a crescent shape following the curve of the river. Drawbridges over the moat led to four giant gateways. Two of the gates, the Hathi Pol and Amar Singh Gate are still in use. Naqqar khana (drum house) was built over them.
The later forts built by Akbar at Lahore, Allahabad & Fatehpur Sikri followed the model of Agra Fort. His grandson Shah Jahan built the Lal Quila (Red Fort) in Shahjahanabad (old Delhi) following the same layout.
The palaces in the fort
Around 1570, Akbar built the royal palace, Jahangiri Mahal for his son Salim. Some historians are of the view that it was built during Jahangir’s time. This was the first attempt to blend ornate Hindu motifs with the more symmetrical Islamic style. The rooms have finely carved columns and niches. There is an open porch that overlooks the river. It is believed that Jahangir’s powerful queen Noorjahan lived in this palace. During Shahjahan’s reign, lustrous marble was used instead of sandstone. In 1636 he built his luxurious palace, Khas Mahal, flanked by two pavilions. A beautiful garden known as Anguri bagh in traditional charbagh style with flower beds & fountains was laid out in front. The walls & pillars of the palace had exquisite inlay in semi-precious stones.
In one corner of the Anguri bagh is an octagonal tower – Mussaman Burj or Jasmine tower. Crowned with a copper dome, this tower provides a panoramic view of the river. Next to the tower was an small exquisite palace with jali screens, carved niches and sculpted ornamental pool. This was Mumtaz Mahal’s private quarters.
Diwan-i-Khas & Diwan-i-Am
Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience): Important matters of the state were conducted here. It was built in 1637. The open hall has lavishly carved marble columns, arches with inlay work as well as carvings in relief. It faces an open terrace. At the other end of the terrace are two thrones, one in white marble and the other in black. There was a time when the music of Tansen reverberated in this open terrace and mesmerize Emperor Akbar.
The terrace overlooks a courtyard called Machhi Bhavan. In the garden facing it were ornamental fish ponds. The ladies of the harem celebrated the festivals in this courtyard.
We finally reach Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). It is a superbly proportioned structure with three rows of cusped arches supported by slender pillars. There is a highly decorated recess in the rear wall where the famous bejewelled Peacock throne of Shahjahan was placed. He sat there in state dealing with administrative matters, making pronouncements, hearing petitions and dispensing justice. The peacock throne was commissioned in 1634. Precious, rare jewels such as diamonds, emeralds rubies & garnets from the imperial jewel-house were used to embellish & adorn it. When Shahjahan moved court to Delhi, the throne was taken there. When Nadir Shah plundered Delhi in 1739, he carried off the throne to Persia.
There are three mosques within the fort – Nagina Masjid, Mina Masjid and Moti Masjid (the Pearl Mosque). Shah Jahan had built Moti Masjid for his personal use.
Fall & decline of the Fort
Abul Fazal mentions that during Akbar’s times there were over 500 buildings in the fort. A few survive today. Jahangir added some structures. Shahjahan demolished many of the sandstone buildings, remodelled some and built his own marble palaces. During the twilight years of the Mughal empire, the fort came under the Jats. They took away marble & peitra dura pillars for their own palaces. When British army captured it, they destroyed many buildings and converted them into ugly army barracks. The royal baths were transported to London to be exhibited in the palaces there. Despite this, enough remains for the visitor to get the flavour of the royal past. The emperors are long gone away, their legacy lives to tell some interesting tales.
A pictorial tour of Agra Fort
Tonga ride
I spent nearly two hours at Agra Fort and when I came out, I was fascinated on seeing a couple of Tongas (horse carts) standing outside the fort. Tongas have disappeared from most of the Indian cities but it still survives in Agra. I couldn’t resist the temptation of a ride.
A majority of the tourists make a day trip to Agra from Delhi. They either see only Tajmahal or at the most Agra Fort and miss out on seeing two other beautiful monuments of Agra. These are Akbar’s mausoleum at Sikandra and Itmad-ud-Daulah (tomb of Mirza Ghiyas Beg, father of Noor Jahan). I visited them on the same day. The number of visitors at Agra Fort was about 50% of the number at Taj and at these two monuments it was hardly 5%. But in my opinion, they are equally magnificent but unfortunately remain in the shadow of the more illustrious ones.
Akbar’s mausoleum at Sikandara
Sikandar Lodi had established the city of Sikandara. It is now a suburb of Agra but in Mughal times it was 10 kms from Agra on the other side of Yamuna. Akbar chose the peaceful environs of Sikandara for his final resting place. The Mughal emperors followed the Tartary custom and in accordance to it, Akbar decided to build his own tomb and planned the design himself. The construction started in 1604 but Akbar suddenly fell ill in 1605 and died after a brief illness. His son Jahangir made certain modifications in the design and the Mausoleum was completed in 1613.
Akbar, the great Mughal
Akbar undoubtedly was the greatest of the Mughals. Percival Spear in his book ‘A History of India (Vol II)’ writes “There seems no doubt that Akbar was a remarkable personality. Though formally illiterate, he had a prodigious memory and a keen intellect ….. he had great physical strength and personal courage…… he had the magic of magnetic leadership which excited devotion from his followers and extorted admiration from his enemies….. he was more humane and generous than most men of his time and more tolerant. Above all he possessed creative imagination ….. “
In 1582 he propounded a new religion Din-i-Ilahi intending to merge some of the good elements from different religions. The purpose was to reconcile the differences that divided his subjects. The intent was good but it never really took off.
Description of the mausoleum
It is but natural that this mausoleum should match the stature of this Mughal Emperor. The mausoleum at Sikandara is a magnificent example of the blending of three styles of architecture – Islamic, Hindu & Western. The pyramidal structure marks a considerable departure from the other Mughal monuments. The vast, beautifully carved, red-ochre sandstone tomb is set in the midst of a beautiful charbagh style of garden. The garden is spread over 117 acres. There is an imposing gateway at the entrance with four minarets in marble which is the“Gateway of Magnificence”. It resembles the Buland Darwaza at Fatehpur Sikri.
The tomb building is a four-tiered pyramid, surmounted by a marble pavilion containing the false tomb. The real tomb, as in other mausoleums, is in the basement. The buildings are constructed mainly from deep red sandstone. They are enriched with features in white marble. Decorated inlaid panels of these materials and a black slate adorn the tomb and the main gatehouse. Panel designs are geometric, floral and calligraphic. The circumferential gallery around the cenotaph is wide and impressive.
The sight of a number of deers and black bucks grazing in the lush green garden was so relaxing.
Jat rebellion & looting of the Mausoleum
Jats had rebelled against the Mughals under the leadership of Gokul Singh. They killed the Mughal Faujdar of Mathura. Aurangzeb was enraged and he sent a large force to crush the rebellion. Gokul Singh died in the ensuing battle. Few years later to avenge his death, Raja Ram once again organized the Jats under his leadership and waged war against the Mughals. He and his followers marched to Agra and forcibly occupied the mausoleum. They looted the precious stones. Historians believe that they even reached the grave of Akbar and desecrated it.
During the British rule when Lord Curzon was the Viceroy, he ensured the repair & restoration of the mausoleum.
Surrounding monuments
There is an exquisite little building ‘Kanch Mahal’ (Glass palace) outside the boundary of the mausoleum. Jahangir had built this is a harem quarter. It later became a hunting lodge. Close by is an unknown tomb belonging to the Lodi era which is now in ruins
Itmad-ud-Daulah
This exquisite Mughal era monument at first sight resembles a beautiful jewel box. Compared to the other Mughal era monument which are grand in size, it is much smaller. But it’s small size is more than made up by the beauty that it oozes.
This is the mausoleum of Mirza Ghiyas Beg who was the father of Noor Jahan. He was of Persian descent. He had ensured best of education for his daughter Mehrunissa (later Noor Jahan). She became well versed in Persian, Arabic and also in art, literature, music & dance.
Emperor Jahangir married her in 1611. She was his 20th wife but soon became his favourite. Noor Jahan (Light of the World) was a powerful queen. She took keen interest in the administrative affairs of the Mughal court. Many historians believe that she was the real power behind the throne during Jahangir’s reign. She ensured that Jahangir make her father his Prime Minister in 1615. Her brother became a general in Mughal army. Shah Jahan married her brother’s daughter Arjumand Banu (later Mumtaz Mahal. The Emperor awarded him the title of ‘‘Itimad-ud-Daulah‘‘ (‘Pillar of the State’) for his excellent work.
Description of the Mausoleum
After the death of Mirza Ghiyas Beg in 1622, Noorjahan built his mausoleum in Agra on the banks of river Yamuna. It was completed in 1628 and it is called Itmad-ud-daulah. The structure exhibits strong Persian architectural influences. The earlier mausoleums were made in red sandstone but this is built entirely in white marble, inlaid with semi-precious stones. Many regard it as precursor to Taj and call it ‘baby or mini Taj’. This is also the first Mughal structure to have used pietra dura (stone inlay) work. The pietra dura decoration depict cypresses, wine glasses, and an amazing variety of geometrical arabesque. The marble lattice screens, known as jaalis, lend a more softer, delicate feel to it. Jahangir’s mausoleum in Lahore has similar style.
Personally I found this to be the most fascinating monument of Agra.
Pictorial tour of Itmad-ud_Daulah
Agra monuments in postal stamps
United Nations under their World Heritage Series had issued a set of 6 stamps on Tajmahal in 2014.
India Post had issued one stamp on Tajmahal and two stamps on Agra Fort in 2004.
In conclusion
If only stones could speak …. these marvels in stone would have many an interesting tales of several centuries to narrate. Some of them happy & joyous while some sad & tragic!
Many old Hindi movies such as Mughal-e-Azam, Tajmahal, Anarkali and in recent times Jodha Akbar have immortalized the saga of Mughals. They have such a beautiful visual impact on the minds that the general masses start believing the stories narrated in them as actual depiction of history! There could be nothing more far from truth. This evergreen haunting song from the 1963 movie ‘Tajmahal’ still celebrates the eternal love between Shah Jahan & Mumtaz Mahal
“जो वादा किया वो निभाना पड़ेगा / रोके ज़माना चाहे रोके खुदाई / तुमको आना पड़ेगा….”
Radhasoami Spiritual Organization and Dayalbagh, Agra
India is a land of many religions and many faiths. Radhasoami is a spiritual organization. Shiv Dayal Singh established it in 1861 in Agra. There are more than 50 million Radhasoami follwers in India and around the world. There are two major sub-sects, one in Beas in Punjab and another at Dayalbagh in Agra. Their philosophy is surat shabd yoga (which believes in the “union of the soul with the divine, inner sound”). They lay more emphasis on guru bhakti (“devotion to the master”) and high moral living, including a strict lacto-vegetarian diet. They call their guru as guru maharaj.
Dayalbagh in Agra is a self-sustained colony. The inhabitants lead an active, disciplined and co-operative community life, conforming to the spiritual ideals of their faith. More than 3500 followers stay there. No one owns a house there – everything belongs to the community. Followers from across the globe visit the commune. There are stay arrangements at Dayalbagh. Followers give their voluntary contribution by working in the agricultural fields of the community. The community runs their own hospital, educational institutions & small scale industries.
Their magnificent temple in marble at Dayalbagh known as Soamibagh temple has been 115 years in the making.
Agra – a foodie’s paradise
One of the special breakfast item of Agra is Bedai poori. It is like a fluffy kachori taken with warm potato curry & a dash of curd. Warm crispy jalebis go well with it. Agra is well known for the Mughlai non-veg dishes. The royal chefs had perfected the recipes over the centuries. Popular chaat items are Rajkachori & panipuri (called golgappas here). The other speciality of Agra is Aloo tikki called Bhalla here. It is fried potato & chickpea patty that’s smashed open and topped with grated ginger and spicy tamarind chutney.
Agra is famous all over the country for its sweet Petha and Dalmoth. Pethas are made from white pumpkin or ash gourd and they are infused with different flavours. There are two types of Pethas – the dry hard one and the soft syrupy one. They are available as plain, angoori, keasar or paan pethas. Visitors carry them on their return.
Shopping in Agra
Agra is well known for leather goods specially shoes & chappals. Tourists carry marble souvenirs such as vases & jewel boxes with inlay work. The other marble gift items are statues, animal figures & decorative plates. Rugs & carpets are other items popular with tourists. Many foreigners carry miniature version of Taj in marble. Ladies buy fancy jewellery & gem stones. Traditional hand made embroidery dresses are popular.
Connectivity/ stay / best season
Agra is well connected by air, rail & road with various cities of India. It is easily accessible by rail & road from New Delhi. The train journey by Shatabdi Express from New Delhi takes only 1 hour & 50 mins. By road via Yamuna Expressway the distance is 165 kms and takes a little over 3 hours depending on traffic condition.
Agra being an international tourist destination has several luxury hotels and many budget hotels to suit every traveller. We had stayed at ITC Mughal Hotel.
The best season to visit Agra is from November to mid March.
Side trips
Fatehpur Sikri is 35 kms away. One can visit Bharatpur (56 kms) for the famous Bird Sanctuary. I had visited both these places as a college student. Another visit is definitely warranted. If you are in Bharatpur you may travel further 26 kms to Deeg to watch the grand 18th century palace of the Jat kings.
Jaipur is 238 kms away and Gwalior is 120 kms away from Agra.
Regular Updates
I have clicked all the pics (except as mentioned)
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. I do not take any responsibility for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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