Introduction
Kailash temple at Ellora Caves is undoubtedly like a symphony on stone that leaves the visitor enthralled for a life time.
While we explore this World Heritage Site of Ellora Caves, our focus remains on Kailash /Kailas /Kailashnath temple at Ellora. It is by far the most valuable gem in the pantheon of 34 outstanding man-made caves at Ellora.
Kailash temple is a remarkable destination that leaves the visitor speechless with wonder, astonishment & awe. In addition, it has a timeless appeal as it continues to evoke enigma, mystery & intrigue. Even after 1300 years this imposing work of art and marvel of engineering is soul stirring. It is unbelievable that it is a work of human hands without the availability of the modern implements !!
The indefatigable spirit of human skills, creativity & above all ambition created this monolithic masterpiece. Further it is massive in concept!! It’s top down construction technique of chiseling, chipping & carving through a single hard rock continues to baffle experts. The complexity of the construction is remarkable. In addition, this epitome of rock-cut architecture of India, figures top on my list of ancient Wonders of India.
Over centuries, travellers, writers, archaeologists, students of architecture & history, conservationists have continued to troop through its hallowed portals. Everyone has formed his/her own opinion about the structure. Many scholars and authors have extensively documented its magnificent sculptures & architectural details. My travelogue is an attempt to present my perspective of this marvellous piece of architecture.
My visits to Ellora
I have visited Ellora Caves thrice. First time as a teenager, then with my family in the nineties and the last time on a solo visit a couple of years ago. Every time my eyes saw the place with a new perspective. I am so fascinated with the place that I wouldn’t mind visiting it again.
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
UNESCO in the year 1983 selected Ellora along with Ajanta, Taj Mahal & Agra Fort as World Heritage Sites. Thereafter, the list has expanded to 36 sites in India.
UNESCO report highlights the following in addition to mentioning the outstanding universal value of Ellora:
It is an invaluable ensemble of 34 caves at Ellora in the Charanandri hills of western India’s Maharashtra State. It showcases a spirit of co-existence and religious tolerance through the outstanding architectural activities. The followers of three prominent religions: Buddhism, Brahmanism, and Jainism excavated different set of caves. The rock-cut activity took place in three phases from the 6th century to the 12th century. The earliest caves (caves 1–12), excavated between the 5th and 8th centuries, reflect the Mahayana philosophy of Buddhism as prevalent in this region. The Brahmanical group of caves (caves 13–29) excavated between the 7th and 10th centuries include the renowned Kailasa temple (cave 16). Excavation of another group of caves (caves 30–34) took place between the 9th and 12th centuries. They reflected Jaina philosophy.
History of the Ellora Caves
These 34 main monasteries and temples are open to public (out of about 100 caves). They extend over more than 2 kms. Excavation took place side by side in the wall of a high volcanic basaltic formed cliff at Ellora. It is an uninterrupted sequence of monuments dating from 600 to 1100 CE. It brings the civilization of ancient India to life. Additionally, Ellora complex is an unique artistic creation and a technological exploit. It has temple and sanctuaries devoted to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism. They illustrate the spirit of tolerance that was characteristic of ancient India.
The excavation of the caves at Ellora happened primarily during the reign of the Kalachuris, Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas & Yadavas dynasties. Some scholars are of the opinion that excavation of some of the early Hindu Caves took place between the mid sixth to end of 8th centuries. While, some believe that during some decades there could have been an overlapping of excavation.
The Rashtrakuta king Krishna I (r. 756–773 CE) constructed the Kailash temple (Cave 16). Though, some historians believe that the excavation had started during the reign of Dantidurga / Dantivarman II (r 735-756 CE). It was completed by Krishna I. Some historians believe that the subsequent Rashtrakuta kings continued adding to the temple.
Ellora on the trade route
Ellora always remained the centre of activity unlike Ajanta Caves which remained hidden in the deep jungles for several centuries. The ancient name is Elapura from which it evolved to Verul /Eloor /Elura and later as Ellora. It was on the ancient trade route. This connected Paithan (Pratishthan) with the ports on the western coast (now in Gujarat & Maharashtra) and with Ujjaiyani. The traders/ merchants used Ellora Caves as the transit point for night halt & rest. Ellora remained in the public eye as it was on the more frequented travel route. Kailash temple remained a practicing shrine until the early 19th century. Several travellers to India have mentioned about Ellora in their accounts. They include Arab geographer Al Masudi and Venetian traveller Niccolao Manucci in the 10th & 17th century respectively, for instance.
Description of Kailash temple
Kailash temple is probably the largest and most remarkable cave temple in the world for its size, architecture & sculptural treasures. The Vadodara copper-plate inscription (c. 812-813 CE) of Karkaraja II (a Rashtrakuta ruler of Gujarat) is important. It mentions Krishnaraja as the patron of Kailasanatha, a Shiva temple at Elapura. It also states that temple is so wondrous that even the gods and architects became astonished. The cave temple gets its name from Mount Kailash the celestial abode of Shiva.
Architecture of the temple
The Kailasa temple architecture is different from the earlier style prevalent in the Deccan region. As stated above, it appears to be based on the Virupaksha temple at Pattadakal and the Kailasa temple at Kanchi. Though it is not an exact imitation of these two temples. The southern influence on the temple architecture is probably due to the involvement of Chalukya and Pallava artists in its construction. Consequently, the indigenous Deccan artisans played a subordinate role in the temple’s construction.
The excavation of Kailash temple must rank as an architectural wonder as two great trenches some 90 metres long were dug into the hillside. Another trench 53 metres across connected them. Then the architects used the great block of residual rock some 30 metres in height to carve the temple. This included the three-storeyed vimana, the main mandapa, two giant dhwajasthambas and four sub-shrines. What is remarkable is that the architect used the top down technique for construction. They first hewed the mass of the rock at the top into shape and then went down shaping layer after layer. Simultaneously, the carvers kept ornamenting the structure. This way as they moved downward they kept hewing & decorating each layer. Thus there was no need for any scaffolding.
A mystery surrounds the temple. People believe that there is an underground passage below the temple and a stream runs underneath. Many believe that only aliens with super natural powers could have excavated the cave and build this magnificent temple. Such stories without any proof only serve to add to the intrigue of this place.
Features of the temple
The entrance to the temple courtyard features a low gopuram. Most of the deities at the left of the entrance are Shaivaite while on the right hand side the deities are Vaishnavaites. A two-storeyed gateway opens to reveal a U-shaped courtyard. The dimensions of the courtyard are 82 m x 46 m at the base. The courtyard has a columned arcade three stories high at the edge all around it. Huge sculpted panels punctuate the arcades, and alcoves contain enormous sculptures of a variety of deities. Originally flying bridges of stone connected these galleries to central temple structures, but these have fallen.
Some of the most famous sculptures are Shiva the ascetic and Shiva the dancer. The Shiva sculptures can be broadly classified under Samharamurti or the aggressive form, Anugrahamurti or the benign form. In addition, Nrittamurti or Shiva’s dancer form, and Shiva as guru or the teaching form can be seen. Two dhvajastambhas (flagpoles) and two monumental freestanding elephants are also present in the Kailash complex.
Traces of mural paintings in Ellora are found in 5 caves, but only in the Kailasa temple, they are somewhat preserved. The paintings were done in two series – the first, at the time of carving the caves & the subsequent series was done several centuries later.
The Central Shrine
Within the courtyard, the central shrine has Shiva as the deity, and an image of his mount Nandi . The central shrine housing the lingam features a flat-roofed mandapa, supported by 16 pillars, and a Dravadian shikhara. The shrine is complete with pillars, windows, inner and outer rooms, gathering halls, and an enormous stone lingam at its heart. Niches, windows as well as images of deities, mithunas (erotic male and female figures) and other figures are on the wall. Nandi sits on a porch in front of the central temple.
The Nandi mandapa and main Shiva temple are each about 7 metres high, and built on two storeys. The lower stories of the Nandi Mandapa are both solid structures, decorated with elaborate illustrative carvings. The base of the temple has carvings of elephants all around suggesting as if they are holding the structure aloft. A rock bridge connects the Nandi Mandapa to the porch of the temple. The base of the temple hall features scenes from Ramayana & Mahabharata.
Please enjoy this beautiful virtual tour of the Kailash temple (Cave 16) gallery
Vogler’s book on Kailash temple provides a different yet interesting perspective
American architect Roger Vogler who had designed IIT Kanpur, has spent nearly 55 years studying the many aspects of Kailash. Consequently, he considers Kailash among the world’s greatest works of architecture. He has studied the books written on Kailash by eminent people like James Ferguson, Percy Brown, Madhukar Keshav Dhavalikar.
Vogler tried to understand the concept of the temple from the view of unknown Stapathi (architect) who had designed it 1300 years ago. He feels that to get a clear understanding a thorough study of Hindu religion through Vedas, Upanashids, Puranas and mythology is required. This could help in delving into the pysche of the creators of this masterpiece. His findings & postulations found a beautiful expression in his book “The Kailasa at Ellora: A New View of a Misunderstood Masterwork”. It was published in 2013 jointly by INTACH Aurangabad Chapter and MAPIN Publishing.
All the earlier writers & scholars have focussed on the magnificent sculptures and carved architectural details. But what’s missing is the positive significance of the great volume of space in the form of towering untouched cliffs. Many earlier scholars have considered the pit surrounding the structure as a flaw. But Volger tries to show that these cliffs enclosing the temple precincts are metaphors for presence of God. He also delves into the moral and religious messages under the stones, hidden in metaphors.
The book also has beautiful pics by Peeyush Sekhsaria, an architect/geographer.
Some other significant Hindu Caves
The Hindu Caves (caves 13 to 29) were constructed from the mid 6th century to the beginning of 8th century in two phases. The earliest caves are 28, 27 & 19 followed by caves 20, 21, 26 & 29. Then came caves 17 & 28. They were built during the reign of the Kalachuris. The later caves 14, 15 and 16 (Kailash Cave) were excavated between mid 8th century and 10th century. They belong to the Rashtrakuta period.
Description of some Hindu Caves
Cave 29 called the Dhumar Lena is among the earliest & largest excavations at Ellora. The carvings are larger than life size. But, according to author Dhavalikar, they are “corpulent, stumpy with disproportionate limbs”
Cave 21 called Rameshwar Lena has sculpture of Goddesses Ganga & Yamuna at the entrance. It also features a display of Sapta Matrika flanked by Ganesha & Shiva on either side. There is a sculpture of Devi Durga too.
Cave 15 is the Dashavatara temple that depict the ten avatars of Vishnu. According to Coomarswamy, the finest relief in this cave is the one depicting the death of Hrinayakashipu by Narasimha. Other reliefs include marriage of Shiva & Parvati, Shiva & Parvati playing dice, Markendya, Garuda, Shiva spearing Andhakasura, Gajendramoksha & dancing Shiva.
Other notable Caves are Ravan Ki Khai (Cave 14) and the Nilkantha (Cave 22). In addition, Cave 25 has a carving of Surya on its ceiling.
Enjoy the virtual tour of Hindu caves other than Kailash temple cave:
Buddhist Caves
There are 12 Buddhist Caves (cave 1 to 12). Notable among the Buddhist caves is Cave 10 which is Chaitya worship hall ‘Vishvakarma cave’. The period of excavation is around 650 CE. It became famous as “Carpenter’s Cave”, because the rock has a finish that has the appearance of wooden beams. Beyond its multi-storeyed entry is a cathedral-like stupa hall, chaitya-griha (prayer house). At the heart of this cave is a 15-foot statue of Buddha in a preaching pose.
Caves 5, 10, 11 and 12 are architecturally important Buddhist caves. Cave 5 is unique among the Ellora caves as it has the design as a hall. Further, it has a pair of parallel refectory benches in the centre and a Buddha statue in the rear. This cave and a cave in Kanheri are the only two Buddhist Caves in India with this design.
Caves 11 and 12 are three-storey monasteries that are cut out of a rock. They have Vajrayana iconography inside. It was an architectural feat to build a three storey structure from solid rock in that age. In addition, the floors and ceilings are smooth and levelled. Further, the cave had cells that could accommodate 40 monks.
© Brad Pict/Fotolia
Jain Caves
Cave 30 to 34 are the Jain Caves. Chhota Kailas (Cave 30) and the Indrasabha (Cave 32) are the most noteworthy. Chhota Kailas is a mini version of the stupendous Hindu Kailasa temple. An image of Mahavira seated on a lion throne is at the rear of the mandapa. The shafts of the columns have decorations of foliage & garlands. There are sculptures of 22 Tirthankaras in seating position.
However, the masterpiece of the Jain caves is the two-storeyed Indrasabha temple. A huge dhwajasthamba and a statue of an elephant flanks the temple. In addition, lion and elephant friezes decorate the sides of the courtyard. Further, there are a series of shrines of the many Jain tirthankaras. There is a beautiful image of Ambika with a child in her lap.
Enjoy the virtual tour of the Jain Caves:
In conclusion
What staggers one at Ellora is the realization that human hands have fashioned all the beauty one beholds. Besides, this was done more than a millennium ago.
Kailash temple is undoubtedly a major landmark of ancient Indian civilization as the sculptures & carvings here depict richness of artistic talent.
Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga
One advantage of coming to Ellora is that you get an opportunity to have darshan at one of the 12 Jyotirlingas. This is the Grishneshwar, the last Jyotirlinga in the list. Many people call it Dhushmeshwar temple too. The temple, built of red rocks has a five-tier shikhara.
The original temple had suffered destruction at the hands of Delhi Sulatanate in the 13th/14th century. Maloji Bhosale (grandfather of Chhatrapatti Shivaji) has reconstructed the temple in the 16th century. It had got damaged again during the Mughal-Maratha conflict. Ahilyabai Holkar had restored it in the 18th century.
To enter the sanctum sanctorum, the men have to go bare-chested.
Other nearby places to visit
The historical city of Aurangabad is 30 kms from Ellora. Daulatabad is midway between Ellora to Aurangabad. The final resting place of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb at Khuldabad is just 5 kms from Ellora caves. The famous temple of Bhadra Maruti is also near Khuldabad. I have written about all of them in a separate blog.
Where to stay
There are a couple of hotels in Ellora – the good options are Hotel Kailas (0.5 km from the cave) and Ellora Heritage Resort (1.5 km). The links are http://www.hotelkailas.com & http://www.elloraheritageresort.com
Many tourists prefer to stay in Aurangabad and make a day trip to Ellora and Daulatabad fort. There are several hotels in Aurangabad to suit all budgets.
Connectivity / Best season to visit
Aurangabad is connected by air & train with some major cities of India. It also has good road connection with Mumbai (350 kms), Nasik (150 kms), Pune (235 kms), Nagpur (475 kms), Hyderabad (560 kms).
The ideal time to visit Ellora Caves is from November to mid March). It is a good destination during the monsoon as well but summer months should be avoided.
A wonderful message for all travellers
Let us all ensure to keep our environment clean & pollution free.
Regular Updates
I have clicked all the pics (except as mentioned)
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. I do not take any responsibility for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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