Exploring the heritage landmarks of Mumbai from the Colonial-era was a pursuit that I used to enjoy to the hilt. Writing this travelogue takes me down the memory lane.
Life in a Metro -an introduction
Mumbai, the commercial, financial & entertainment capital of India is called the ‘Maximum’ city. It is a vibrant city with modern outlook. It is an extraordinary city that evokes many emotions. The city that never sleeps is a city of stark contrasts. Residents of Mumbai despite all the odds & hardships have tremendous energy and display undying attitude & indomitable spirit. Undoubtedly, it is an alluring city that attracts millions from the hinterland of India. It captures the imagination of every soul that steps its foot in the city.
Thousands arrive in Mumbai daily with dreams in their eyes. More dreams are realized and extinguished in Mumbai than any other place in India. Someone pursues his dream to multiply his wealth or create a successful career while someone else struggles to earn his livelihood. It is a city where everyone is in a hurry and time is more precious than life! In this city, for many people catching the 7.30 a.m. or 8.10. a.m. wali every working day is the most important event of life. I am referring to the local train!
My first brush with Mumbai
It may sound unbelievable that despite being a widely-travelled person even from my young age, I didn’t visit Mumbai till I was 32. My first visit was in 1989 on an official visit. The first experience was rather flustering. My office had done my hotel booking. I only knew the name of the hotel. Office-staff had informed me that it was very close to Bombay VT station. After landing at Santacruz airport from Hyderabad, I took a taxi to VT. Those were the times when there was no cell phone! It took me some 75 mins as it was peak traffic time. On reaching VT area, I was not able to locate my hotel as no one knew the hotel. Finally, I went to another hotel and inquired at the reception. To my horror they told me that my hotel was very close to the airport. Imagine my plight & frustration!
Eleven years in Mumbai
I had never imagined that I would live in Mumbai but this was the city where I ended up spending 11 years of my work-life. I stayed in Andheri, first in Andheri (West) for four years and then in Andheri (East) for seven years. East was closer to my work place so it saved lot of commuting time. People call it ‘aamchi Mumbai’ or ‘Mumbai meri jaan’ but I could never feel that connect. I detested Mumbai for its traffic, congested roads, pollution, humidity & over powering stench. I feel one should settle down in Mumbai only if one could afford an apartment on Worli Sea Face, Bandra Carter Road, Peddar Road, Malabar Hill or Marine Drive !! ‘Town’ in Mumbai means South Mumbai for the elite.
An amusing experience
I recollect another interesting & amusing episode of September 1995 during a short visit to Mumbai for shopping. We went to a saree shop. My wife asked the salesman to show some sarees. He showed no interest but all the salesmen were talking animatedly. I inquired about the reason. They looked at us incredulously and asked us whether we had not heard about Ganesh idols drinking milk. We were flabbergasted and left the shop thinking that these people were talking non-sense. It was the same experience at two neighbouring shops. We hired a taxi to return to our relative’s place. The taxi driver was excitedly talking about it. After returning and watching the TV we came to know of the madness that had gripped India for several hours that day. The entire country had come to a standstill and long queues had formed at all Ganesha temples.
Stranded in Mumbai – a terrifying night
Another experience I can never forget was the deluge of 26th July 2005. That day the skies opened up and it rained & rained incessantly for hours. I gave lift to another three colleagues in my car and we left office in Andheri East at 3 pm for our houses in Andheri West. We were stuck on the road. There was water all around us. By 9 p.m. It was pitch dark as there was no power supply and the cell phones had stopped working. We spent the entire night in the car without food or water and could only manage to reach home by 9.30 a.m. next day. But when I read about the horror stories & the tragedy that had unfolded, I realized that our suffering was insignificant.
Decision to leave Mumbai
I belonged to that minority for whom the quiet of a smaller city close to nature had a greater attraction. So, I moved out and settled down at Nasik at the earliest opportunity. A decision, I never regret.
Things I cherished in Mumbai
But it doesn’t mean that I hated everything in Mumbai. There are so many things, events & places that I cherished in Mumbai. I did’t miss an opportunity to enjoy them to the fullest on the weekends. In fact, I miss many of them! We loved watching plays at Prithvi theatre and Classical music/dance recitals at Nehru Centre or NCPA. Visits to Juhu Beach, Worli Sea Face or Marine Drive were relaxing. Watching movies in the plush cinema halls with an occasional brush with some Film or TV star was an attraction. Times of India Litfest (literary festival) at Mehboob Studio, Bandra was an event to look forward to. We also eagerly awaited the annual Kala Ghoda Cultural & Crafts Fest.
How can one not miss the 10 days extravaganza during the Ganapati festival. The fervour of the youngsters at the dahi-handi event and performing dandia to the tune of music during the 9 days Navaratri festival.
Food relished in Mumbai
South Indian breakfast at ‘Dakshinayan’ in Juhu or ‘Cafe Madras’, ‘Ram Ashraya’ or ‘Arya Bhavan’ in Matunga was a much awaited affair. Our regular haunt for lunch/dinner was ‘Urban Tadka’ (7 Bungalows) or ‘Masala Mantar’ (Lokhandwala) when we were in Andheri West. When we moved to Andheri East, ‘Tunga’ & ‘Sai Palace’ (both in East) became our favourite. Each place has a speciality of its own. We relished occasional Sunday lunches at ‘Soam’ (near Babulnath), ‘Swati’ (Tardeo), ‘Aswaad’ (Dadar), ‘Cream Centre’ (Oberoi Mall). We also visited ‘Shivsagar’ (Juhu), ‘Kailash Parbat’ (Lohandwala) & ‘Little Italy’ sometimes. Mughlai food at ‘Khyber’ (Kalaghoda) was yummy but a rare event because of the distance. Waiting for at least 30 mins to get a table was inevitable at every place.
Street Food: I used to relish the street food at Mumbai. They included grilled/ toasted sandwiches at Santacruz market /Fort, Vada Pav at Chetna College (Dadar). For Chaat – Panipuri, Sevpuri, Jhaal Mudi, Ragda Pattice at Sarkari Bhandar (Juhu) & Bhel near Prithvi. Maharashtrian snacks (particularly sabudana wada ,kothimbir wadi & watana pattice) at Prakash (Dadar) was something to look forward to.
Natural Ice creams were something to drool about. I got some of the best fresh fruit juices in Fort area.
My trips to the Fort area
I loved my occasional solo day trips to Fort area on a Sunday. It was convenient to take the local train as the train had thin occupancy. On a sunday, Fort area was deserted. On a few occasions my younger son also gave me company. Walking on the streets from CSMT Station to Fort area or from Churchgate to Fort via Azad Maidan /Oval Maidan /Cross Maidan was a pleasure. I enjoyed roaming around the almost deserted streets admiring the colonial architecture, visiting Jehangir Art Gallery, the Museum or Gateway of India. Samovar Café was attached to Jehangir Art Gallery, Mumbai’s pioneering art venue. It was another iconic restaurant (Taj Hotels managed it). I loved the Aloo Paratha & Veg Pakodas here. The tea was just perfectly brewed. Unfortunately it downed its shutters in 2018.
Book stores in Fort
Spending time at Kitab Khana, Strand Book Store, Oxford Book Store was another enjoyable past time. Strand Book Stall had become an ionic store for book lovers and had visitors like Nehru, Sarabhai, APJ Abdul Kalam, Manmohan Singh (when RBI Governor), Khushwant Singh etc. Mr. T N Shanbhag started it in the early sixties . Nine years after his death, his daughter had to close down in 2018. Amazon/ Flipkart lured away the readers with hefty discounts! I have spent hours on the pavement browsing through the second hand book stalls opposite Flora Fountain. Many a times a laborious search had led to the discovery of an old history or art books to add to my collection.
Exploring the heritage landmarks of Mumbai
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus)
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus ) known popularly as CST, CSMT or VT is a famous landmark of Mumbai. There are 18 platforms (7 for suburban train and 11 for long-distance trains). Nearly 3 million commuters enter or exit through this terminus daily making it among the largest & busiest railway stations in the world. Everyone is in a hurry. No one has the time to look up and observe the architecture!
The terminus started operation in 1888. The work had started in 1878 and the terminus was ready in 1887 during the Golden Jubilee year of Queen Victoria’s rule. British born architectural engineer Frederick William Stevens designed the terminus in an exuberant Italian Gothic style. It was a symbol of British authority in India and was named as Victoria Terminus (VT). The name was changed to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) in 1996 and in 2016 to Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT). It was built to serve as the headquarters of the Great Indian Peninsular Railway. I feel we should not change the names of our historical monuments as they were built to commemorate a historical event. Many of you may not agree with me. In my opinion, there are many new structures that could be named after our great national heroes & personalities.
Some interesting facts:
Bori Bunder: Prior to CSMT(VT) another station existed at Bori Bunder which was in operation from 1853 to 1887. Bori means sack & bunder was short form for bandargah meaning harbour. Items meant for exports were packed in sacks and stored in the warehouses here. On 16th April 1853, the first passenger train ran between Bori Bunder (Bombay) and Thane, a distance of 34 km. Three locomotives, named Sahib, Sultan and Sindh, were attached and it had thirteen carriages. It was a great event. The Governor’s band played, 21 guns boomed a royal salute and a huge crowd cheered the train. Hindus believed that the creation moving without being pulled by an animal was a miracle and offered flowers and coconuts.
Beauty of CSMT
Many of us would have visited CSMT but we rarely find time to stop, wander around and admire this imposing stately building. The striking central dome has the statue of a lady with a torch called the ‘Statue of Progress’. Grand corridors and carved friezes attract attention. Decorative elements featuring animals are fascinating. The gate to the administrative office block has sculptures of a seated lion & tiger representing Britain & India. The current ticket reservation booking hall looks like the lobby of a luxury palace hotel. The beautiful long, stained-glass windows add an aesthetic touch and provide light and create a feeling of spaciousness. The interior decorations include carved columns, ornamental railings & grills & fascinating woodwork. Even UNESCO has acknowledged that ‘it could be argued that among all the great stations of the world, CST(VT) is the grandest’.
CSMT – a World Heritage Building
CSMT was declared as UNESCO World Hertitage Building in 1988. The UNESCO citation describes CSMT as follows:
The Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, formerly known as Victoria Terminus in Mumbai, is an outstanding example of Victorian Gothic Revival architecture in India, blended with themes deriving from Indian traditional architecture. The building, designed by the British architect F.W. Stevens, became the symbol of Bombay as the ‘Gothic City’ and the major international mercantile port of India. The terminal was built over ten years starting in 1878 according to a High Victorian Gothic design based on late medieval Italian models. Its remarkable stone dome, turrets, pointed arches, and eccentric ground plan are close to traditional Indian palace architecture. It is an outstanding example of the meeting of two cultures as British architects worked with Indian craftsmen to include Indian architectural tradition and idioms forging a new style unique to Bombay.
What a stupendous piece of creation! Even after 133 years, CSMT can be identified with the ethos of Mumbai – it stands for unflinching feeling of exuberance, energy & optimism.
Pictorial tour of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT)
Municipal Corporation Building, Mumbai
The Mumbai Corporation building in South Mumbai is a heritage Grade IIA building. It is strategically located just outside the main administrative building of CSMT at a junction of two roads. It was built in 1893 during the British rule. Built in a blend of Venetian Gothic and Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, it is a landmark building of Mumbai. The tower is 255 feet in height. The V-shaped building houses the civic body that governs the city of Mumbai- Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai.
This iconic building is open to public now as part of heritage walk initiative and a guided tour is being organized. The booking has to be done online.
Times of India Heritage Building
An interesting fact: Times of India has the highest circulation among all the English newspapers of India. It was started in 1838. It’s head quarters in Mumbai is housed in a heritage building built in 1901 opposite CSMT on D.N. Road. Not many know that Times of India had a nickname- the ‘Old Lady of Bori Bunder’. The Times of India building, a Grade II A heritage building, is among the finest examples of Indo Saracenic architecture in India.
General Post Office (GPO), Mumbai
The GPO is modelled on the Gol Gumbaz in Bijapur. It was designed by British architect John Begg. The construction began in 1904 and completed in 1913. Black basalt with a dressing of yellow Kurla stone and white stones from Dhrangadhra (Gujarat) are the predominant materials used. The chief feature of the architecture of this building is an ethereal central hall which rises up to the great dome.
JJ School of Art/ JJ School of Applied Art /JJ School of Architecture
Another interesting visit was to the sprawling campus of JJ School of Art, JJ School of Applied Art & JJ School of Architecture. Parsis have contributed so much to the development of Mumbai. This School of Art was set up in 1870’s by donation given by Sir Jamsettji Jeejebhoy, a Parsi philanthropist. The School of Architecture started in 1910. There are heritage buildings & more than 100 years old banayan trees inside the campus. It is located close to CST station but once you are inside the campus you feel so far away from the hustle & bustle of the metropolis. Not many know that more than half of the leading lights of India’s Advertising fraternity have been alumni of this prestigious institute.
Another interesting fact is that the famous English writer Rudyard Kipling was born on December 30, 1865 in a bungalow within this campus. His father Lockwood Kipling was the first Dean of the Art School. ‘Jungle Book’ is the most celebrated book of Kipling. Kipling stayed in the campus only till he was 6 and then sailed to England for studies. He returned to the campus at the age of 17 for few weeks. Kipling in his autobiography recollects this visit to Mumbai and writes about ‘far-going Arab dhows’ that he sighted on the harbour as well as the ‘gaily dressed Parsees wading out to worship the sunset’. The bungalow in which Kipling was born had crumbled. In its place another Bungalow was erected in 1885 as a memorial to Kipling.
Pictorial tour
Credit for this pic to Sanchari Pal who wrote an article on Kipling on www.betterindia.com
Travel back in time in Mumbai:
Not many know that there was actually a Fort in the Fort area of Mumbai called ‘Fort George’. It was built by the British East India Company between 1686 and 1743 by razing an earlier fort called Dongri Fort. It had three gates ( the Churchgate, the Apollo Gate & the Bazaar Gate), a moat & an esplanade. Fort George itself was demolished around 1860 to facilitate the expansion of the city in a planned manner.
Let us now explore some buildings & monuments built in Neo Classical & Gothic Revival designs in the Fort Area. Fort earlier used to be the Business District of Mumbai.
Flora Fountain
Flora Fountain is a landmark structure of Mumbai. It was built in 1864 and is an ornamental & exquisitely sculpted fountain that has the figure of Roman goddess Flora, the goddess of flowers & the season of spring. The four corners of the fountain are decorated with mythological figures.
A poem in Marathi by Niranajan Bhagat translated to English extols the beauty of the Flora Fountain thus:
“A glass and concrete jungle; In its midst always, quiet, comely with hope filled face, she stands
Flora, a dream of spring in her matchless eyes, holding in both hands stone flowers.
About her, in all corners, iron butterflies fly round and round, and lifeless insects play.”
The High Court of Bombay or Mumbai High Court
It was established in 1862. The present building housing the High Court was completed in 1878. The architecture of the building was Gothic Revival in the Early English style. It is 562 feet (171 m) long and 187 feet (57 m) wide. British Engineer Col. James A. Fuller designed it. To the west of the central tower are two octagonal towers. On the top of the building statues of Justice and Mercy are installed. The building is part of ‘The Victorian and Art Deco Ensemble of Mumbai’ which was added to the list of World Heritage Sites in 2018.
University of Mumbai (Bombay University)
University of Mumbai (earlier Bombay University) was established in 1857. Rajabai Clock tower was built within the University campus in 1878. At a height of 280 ft it is even taller than Qutub Minar. It cost Rs 2 lakhs & took 9 yrs to build. It was funded by Premchand Roychand, a wealthy Jain stock broker who also founded Bombay Stock Exchange. He gave the donation on the condition that it would be named after his mother Raja Bai. It is modelled on ‘Big Ben’ of London and designed by an English architect in Gothic & Venetian styles.
Elphinstone College
Elphinstone College in Fort area was established in 1856 and is among the oldest colleges of India. It was named after Mountstuart Elphinstone who was Governor of Bombay from 1819 to 1827. It was funded through donation by the citizens of the city. Some of the well known alumni of this college are Lokmanya Tilak, Babasaheb Ambedkar, Homi Bhabha, Dadabhai Naoroji, Phiroze Shah Mehta, Jamshedji Tata among many others.
Neo-Classical & Gothic Revival buildings of Mumbai
The entire Fort area is studded with a magnificent spectacle of Victorian, Neo-Gothic, Neo-Classical, Edwardian & Indo-Sarcenic buildings built in the 19th century.
Parsi Fire temple and well
Parsis also spelled Parsees are members of a community who are followers of Persian Prophet Zoroaster and are also known as Zorastrians. They migrated to India from Persia (Iran) between 8th & 10th centuries to escape persecution from the Muslims. They first settled down in Diu and later migrated to South Gujarat & Mumbai. Today their number has dwindled to around 65,000 and they are predominantly settled in Mumbai and in small numbers in Pune, Bangalore, Kolkata and other cities of India. The word Parsi has come from the Arabic word Farsi which is the language of Persia. Despite being in a minority their contribution to India has been immense. Naoroji, Phirozeshah Mehta, Jeejebhoy, Bhabha, Sethna, Tatas, Godrej, Wadias, Mistry, Poonawala, Palkhivala, Nariman, Bharucha, Sorabjee, are some prominent Parsis. The list is long.
One unique aspect of the Zoroastrian religion is the use of fire in their temples, which is seen as symbolic of the divinity. The maximum number of Fire temples in India are located in Mumbai. Non-Parsis are not allowed inside the temple. Here are a few pics of exteriors of two prominent Fire temples & a sacred well.
Maneckji Seth Agiary:
It was built in 1735 and it is the second oldest Fire temple (Agiary) in Mumbai. Agiary is Gujarati word for ‘house of fire’. Two lamassus stand guard at the entrance. The lamassu is a celestial being from ancient Mesopotamian religion. It bears a human head, bull’s body, sometimes with the horns and the ears of a bull, and wings. The architecture of the building is a mix of Persian and Greek Revival styles.
Vatcha Agiary:
It is a Parsi fire temple built in 1881 by Bai Pirojbai, who was the widow of the late Seth Dadabhoy Maneckji Vachha. It is located on Dadabhai Naoroji Road.
Bhikha Behram Well:
The well was dug by Parsi Bhikaji Behram in 1725. He travelled to Mumbai on foot all the way from Bharuch. This well was dug to provide sweet water to the weary travellers. The canopy over the well was added much later. It is a very sacred well for the Parsis.
David Sassoon Library and Reading Room
The David Sassoon Library and Reading Room is a famous library and reading room located opposite Kala Ghoda near Elphinstone College. The building made of yellow Malad stone was completed in 1870. Albert Sassoon, son of the famous Baghdadi Jewish philanthropist David Sassoon had the bright idea to start a library. Above the entrance portico is a white stone bust of David Sassoon. The library still retains the period furniture and had a good collection of some rare classics.
Knesset Eliyahoo (Jewish Synagogue)
A beautiful turquoise blue building attracts your attention in a lane near Kala Ghoda. It is the Knesset Eliyahoo/Knesset Eliyahu, the second oldest synagogue of Mumbai. Jacob Ilyaas Sassoon, grandson of David Sassoon built it in 1884. The synagogue is open to public on weekdays at fixed timings.
Watson’s Esplanade Hotel
Watson’s Esplanade Hotel now known as Esplanade Mansion located in the Kala Ghoda area is India’s oldest surviving cast iron building. Probably, it could be the oldest surviving cast iron building in the world too. It was named after its original owner, John Watson. The cast and wrought iron structure of the building was prefabricated in England and it was constructed between 1867–69. It was Mumbai’s first 5-Star hotel and was open only to the Britishers & Europeans. The Hotel closed in 1960 and it was converted into small-cubicle offices. As the building was not maintained it became dilapidated and was closed in 2019 and awaits restoration.
Among the notable guests at this hotel was Mark Twain, the famous author who came to Mumbai in 1896. In his book ‘Following the Equator: A Journey Around the World’, he wrote about Mumbai’s crows that he saw outside his balcony. He described the city as “A bewitching place, a bewildering place, an enchanting place – the Arabian Nights come again. It is a vast city: contains about a million inhabitants”
There is a popular myth surrounding this hotel which scholars are quick to disown. It is said that Jamshetji Tata was denied entry in the hotel. He was so piqued that he decided to open the Tajmahal Hotel.
The Gateway of India
The first British Monarch to visit India was King-Emperor George V and his wife Queen-Empress Mary. They landed at Apollo Bunder in December 1911. The Gateway of India was built to commemorate that event. The construction started in 1914 and was completed in 1924. The structure is made of basalt and it is 26 metres (85 feet) high. It has also incorporated some elements of Indian Gujarati designs of 16th century along with the Roman Triumphal Arch. After its construction, the gateway was used as a symbolic ceremonial entrance to British India for important colonial personnel. It has been called a symbol of “conquest and colonisation” commemorating British colonial legacy.
It is located facing the Arabian Sea and it has Tajmahal Palace & Tower Hotel facing it on the other side. Today it is a famous landmark of Mumbai and is always crowded with locals & tourists. It is a favourite spot for photo shoot.
Since 2003 an annual early morning classical music programme is held here with the backdrop of Gateway. The spiritual morning initiative was taken to promote the magic of Indian Classical Music. The organizers believe that the love for classical music would become deeply rooted among both the connoisseurs and common music lovers. Many legendary artists have performed here. There is no entry fee.
Tajmahal Palace Hotel
Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata, the founder of Tata Group built their first hotel ‘The Tajmahal’ in 1903. It is a premium 5-Star Luxury Hotel. The hotel is now called Tajmahal Palace Hotel. A new wing came up in 1973. It is said that Jamshetji wanted to give the people a royal experience that was ‘worthy of Bombay’. It is an iconic hotel of India.
This hotel is an architectural jewel of Mumbai in the Saracenic Revival style. It has played host to many Monarchs & Head of States including Queen Elizabeth II, Obama & Clintons.
We once had breakfast at their Coffee shop and on another occasion high tea at the Sea Lounge, with great views of the Gateway of India and the bay. The pastries were the yummiest, I ever had!
Some interesting facts about the hotel
When it opened in 1903, the hotel was the first in India to have: electricity, American fans, German elevators, Turkish baths and English butlers. Later it also had the city’s first licensed bar, India’s first all-day restaurant, and India’s first discotheque. Initially in 1903, it charged Rs 13 for rooms with fans and attached bathrooms, and Rs 20 with full board. During World War I, the hotel was converted into a military hospital with 600 beds.
What is visible to us from the Gateway of India is the rear view of the Hotel. An untrue story was circulated that the architect made a gross mistake and committed suicide. Some guides still narrate the story that the hotel instead of being sea-facing was made the other way round. Nothing could be far from truth. Tata actually wanted it this way so that the majority of the rooms opened out to the sea.
The hotel was the main target of the deadly terrorist attack in Mumbai on the night of 26th November 2008. More than 167 persons including many foreigners died and the building suffered extensive damage. But it is to the credit of the resilience of the Taj Group that they were up & running in less than two months.
Kala Ghoda
Kala Ghoda is a crescent-shaped art district in the Fort area. It houses a number of Art galleries & Museums and is the venue of the annual cultural festival. The name Kala Ghoda means Black Horse, a reference to the presence of a black stone statue of King Edward VII (as the then Prince of Wales) mounted on a horse. It was removed from here in 1965 and placed in the Zoo at Byculla. In its place a new statue of a black horse without a rider stands there now.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sanghralaya
It was earlier known as Prince of Wales Museum. It was competed in 1914 but opened to public as a museum in 1922. During the intervening period since the First World War had started, it was used as a military hospital.
The museum building is a masterpiece of Indo-Sarasenic style of architecture. It evokes the beauty of Islamic architecture. The Indian pillared hall, the arched pavilion, the dome rising above the huge intersecting arches form a beautiful geometrical pattern. Small jalis for light and wind add to the grandeur of the building. George Wittet skilfully incorporated the original wooden arched pavilion purchased from a royal house (wada) at Nasik as a circular railing on the first floor of the building. For creating the dome the architect George Wittet took inspiration from the Gol Gumbaz of Bijapur and for the finials from the Taj at Agra.
The museum has a fine collection of more that 50000 artifacts & antiquities that span several millennia & cultures. They are displayed in distinct sections. Photoraphy is prohibited inside the premises.
Horniman Circle
Horniman Circle Garden is a large circular park in the Fort area. Around this park we can spot some of the finest & oldest Parsi buildings of Mumbai. They continue to house offices including many banks even today. Sir H C Dinshaw Building, along the semi-circle is an architectural delight. The stone structure, built in the British Era, is influenced by Italian Gothic architectural style. It was completed around 1833. The garden was laid around 1870., called as Elphinstone Circle Garden during British times.
After Independence the name becameHorniman Circle. Benjamin Horniman was the editor of the English newspaper Bombay Chronicle. A Parsi group that published Bombay Samachar (Mumbai Samachar) also owned it. These two newspapers were actively participating in India’s freedom struggle.
The Asiatic Society, Mumbai / Town Hall
The Town Hall building housing the Asiatic Society of Mumbai is one of the most magnificent edifice of Mumbai. In addition it also houses the Central Library, a museum and Head Office of the Directorate of Libraries of Maharashtra.
The architect Colonel Thomas Cowpar designed Town Hall in Neoclassical style of architecture. The influence of Greek & Roman architecture is quite obvious. The building has a height of 100 feet, a span of 200 feet and 30 steps lead up to the building. Grecian portico and eight Doric styled pillars adorn the entrance of the building. The entire construction was in stone Which was brought from England. Sir John Malcolm, Governor of Mumbai in 1930 said, “It is the most magnificent structure that taste and munificence combined have as yet erected in India”
It today houses invaluable collection of old & rare books. Dante‘s first issue of Inferno is one of the treasures at Town Hall. The other treasures include manuscripts in Persian, Prakrit, Sanskrit & Urdu.
The Town Hall building has figured as a Court and songs have been filmed on its steps in several Hindi movies.
Irani Cafes of Mumbai
A visit to Mumbai is incomplete without mentioning its iconic cafes! Zoroastrian Iranians came to India in the late 19th and early 20th century, and many of them opened restaurants now often termed Irani cafés. With the advent of Baristas & Starbucks many of them are today fighting for survival.
Leopold Cafe & Bar
A person of Irani descent established Leopold Cafe & Bar at Colaba Causeway 150 years ago in 1871 . It is an expensive yet popular hangout for foreigners & locals who come here for beer & food. The pastries & cakes too are yummy. This place was one of the targets of the terrorist attack of 2008.
Cafe Mondegar
Another cafe which is a must go when in Colaba is the Cafe Mondegar. It started off in 1932 as an Iranian cafe. Yazdegardi family owns the Cafe. Famous Indian cartoonist and painter Mario Miranda painted murals (his cartoons) on all inner walls and entrance ceiling of the restaurant. This has added a special charm to the place. Coffee here comes with a smiley.
Royal Cafe
Royal Cafe in Colaba established in 1919 is famous for its sizzlers though I didn’t get an opportunity to visit it.
B. Merwan Cafe
I visited B Merwan Irani Cafe that was established in 1914 near Grant Road Station. It is no frills restaurant and the retro furniture & cutlery take you to the bygone era. It is famous for bun maskas, mawa cakes & Irani tea. The stuff here is dirt cheap. I understand this iconic cafe has now closed down.
Gentlemen’s salon/ hair dressers
Let me introduce to an interesting outlet. This is TrueFitt & Hill which was established in London in 1805. Their first outlet in India was set-up in Colaba in Mumbai during the British-era. With five outlets now in Mumbai, they have also opened shop in Delhi, Gurgaon & Bengaluru. They have expanded into premium grooming products for men and they are available at these stores and also online. They cater exclusively to the elite by appointment. Their clientele include the film stars, industrialists etc. A Royal Shave here costs Rs 2250/- and a Royal Hair Cut for Rs 2500/-. These are basic services. The rates go up for other services such as manicure, pedicure, hair colouring etc.
In conclusion
My blog has already become quite a long one. Yet there are so many memories of so many other places visited in Mumbai that I am keeping them for my next blog. Do watch out.
The best time to visit Mumbai is from November 15th to end January when the climate is conducive to take a heritage walk on foot. Since it entails lot of walking, please do not forget to carry a cap, napkin & water bottle. The Bombay Heritage Walks (BHW) has been regularly organizing walks on the weekends mornings from 8.30 to 10 a.m. in the Fort area. Their charges range from Rs 750/- to Rs 1200/- per head depending upon the route & duration chosen. I had also joined one such walks and found it informative.
Regular Updates
I have clicked all the pics (except as mentioned)
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. I do not take any responsibility for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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