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Golden temple for my 50th (golden jubilee) travelogue
Golden Temple, Amritsar – there could not have been a better place to choose for my golden jubilee travelogue. Last year when I started writing the travelogues, I had not imagined that I would be touching this milestone of 50 travel blogs. This has been possible only with the love, support & encouragement from friends, well-wishers & my readers. Some of you have followed me week after week and posted compliments, appreciation & positive feedback. A big ‘thank you’ to all of you.
Visit to Amritsar & Golden Temple
I have visited Amritsar three times though all were short trips. I could visit the Golden Temple only twice. A visit to the Golden temple is one of the most sublime, humbling & blissful experience of life. The beautiful memories of the visit remains etched in the mind in letters of gold. They continue to have a sobering effect on you. I refer to it as sublime because it elevates you to a high degree of moral or spiritual purity. I call it a humbling experience because any visitor coming to the temple leaves his ego, power & status behind.
Every Sikh volunteers for a week in his life time to do ‘seva’ at the temple. Here you can find rich businessmen or senior officers pick up your footwear and stack them safely in the shoe-rack. Or they volunteer to do some form of service in the ‘langar’ that includes washing utensils / serving food to visitors.
Harmindar Sahib / Darbar Sahib / Golden Temple
The temple is known as Harmandir Sahib or Darbar Sahib though Golden Temple is the popular name used universally. The first sight of the temple in a sarovar (pool) is breathtaking. It glistens in the sunlight and glitters in the evening artificial lights and looks mesmerizing. As you start moving around the complex, the feeling of calmness, inner peace and tranquility slowly engulfs you. Over 1,00,000 persons visit the temple complex everyday. The place is always crowded though the crowd remains disciplined. Walking around the complex, you get to listen to the melodious recitation of ardas, kirtan or the akhand path. They take your spirits soaring high and you feel in communion with the Divine.
Origin of Sikhism
Sikh simply means “seeker of truth.” Sikh Dharma is a spiritual path. Guru Nanak (1469-1539) was one of the greatest religious innovators of all times. He founded the Sikh religion towards the end of the 15th century. It is one of the youngest major religion of the world. Today there are more than 30 million followers in India and across the globe. Sikhism originated from the conflicts between Hinduism & Islam. It draws ideas from the goodness of both the religions but at the same time denounces the caste system & rituals. According to Guru Nanak everyone is equal, regardless of caste or gender. His idea was that there was only one God and every human being could attain him following the righteous path. .
“Before becoming a Sikh, a Muslim, a Hindu or a Christian, let’s become a human first” – Guru Nanak
Khalsa panth
While Guru Nanak was the first Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh was the tenth & last Guru. He established the Khalsa panth in 1699 on Baisakhi day. The founding of the Khalsa started a new phase in the Sikh tradition. It formulated an initiation ceremony amrit pahul (nectar ceremony) and rules of conduct for the Khalsa warriors. “Khalsa” comes from the Arabic word “Khalis”. It means “to be pure, to be clear, to be free from, to be sincere, to be true, to be straight, to be solid.” Upon initiation, a Khalsa Sikh gets the title of Singh (male) meaning lion and Kaur (female) meaning lioness. The rules of life, included behavioral code and a dress code (Five K’s). Five K’s are Kesh (uncut hair), Kangha (wooden comb), Kara (iron bracelet), Kachera (cotton underpants) and Kirpan (iron dagger).
Guru Gobind Singh introduced the Khalsa salutation which is in use even today:
“वाहे गुरूजी का खालसा ,वाहे गुरूजी की फ़तेह”
Towards the end of his life, in 1708, Guru Gobind Singh passed the mantle of the Guruship to the Siri Guru Granth Sahib. This ended the tradition of the physical Gurus of the Sikhs. And began the reign of the Shabad Guru, itself, as the Spiritual Light and Guide for the Sikh community.
History of Amritsar & the Golden Temple
Amritsar is the largest spiritual & cultural centre of the Sikhs. It is the holiest of the Sikh shrines in the world. Amritsar literally means ‘pool of nectar of immortality’. Guru Ramdas, the fourth guru of the Sikhs founded the city of Amritsar in about 1577 CE. It’s unclear whether Mughal Emperor Akbar granted the site or Guru Ramadas purchased it for establishing the new city. Guru Ramdas also started the construction of the Amrit Sarovar from which the city got its name. He invited 32 traders to settle down in Amritsar and start shops. These families still run them in the area known as Batisi Hatta (32 shops).
The next Guru, Guru Arjan Dev completed the project and established Harmandir Sahib in the midst of the sarovar. The construction took place between 1581 and 1589. The Guru Granth Sahib is the central holy religious scripture of the Sikhs. Guru Arjan Dev compiled the first rendition of Adi Granth. He placed it inside the Harmandir Sahib on 1st September 1604.
Attacks & restoration
In the 18th century, invaders attacked and ransacked the city . They included Persian King Nadir Shah, Mughal ally Massa Rangar and later Afghan ruler Ahmad Shah Abdali (Durrani). Each time Harmandir Sahib was restored & renovated. Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839) known as Sher-e-Punjab established the Sikh Empire in early 19th century. During his reign he nurtured, enlarged & bestowed the shrine with wealth. Gold plates /foils cover the upper part of the temple and the dome . Total gold used was 162 kgs of 24 karat. Since then, Harmandir Sahib acquired the name Golden Temple. In the nineties renovation took place with 500 kgs of gold.
Operation Blue Star:
Operation Blue Star was launched between June 1st to 10th, 1984 to remove Sikh militant Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale and followers. They had sought cover in the Amritsar Harmandir Sahib Complex. As decided by the Govt. of India under Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, Indian Army carried out the operation. 492 civilians and 83 army men died in this operation. It turned out to be the single bloodiest confrontation in independent India’s history of civil strife. This was an ill-conceived action that received world-wide condemnation. It left the Sikhs world over devastated and seething with anger. Four and half months after this operation Indira Gandhi was assassinated by her own Sikh bodyguards. Many buildings in the temple complex suffered extensive damages and they were later restored.
Description of the Golden Temple
The main entrance is the ‘Darshani Deori’ and has an ornate archway embellished with inlay work. The temple complex is accessible from all sides. It signifies that any person irrespective of religion, caste, creed or gender is welcome at the temple. The only restriction is that the visitor has to leave his footwear outside, wash his feet and cover his head before entering. The temple is in the centre of the sarovar (pool). Devotees reach it via a marble causeway which is 202 feet in length & 21 feet in width. There is a 13 feet wide ‘Pardakshna’ (circumambulatory) path around the temple. It leads to the ‘Har ki Pauri’ (steps of God). On the first floor there is continuous recitation of Guru Granth Sahib.
Guru Granth Sahib
Guru Granth Sahib is the Holy Book of the Sikhs. It was originally written in the Gurmukhi script. The Holy Book is 1430 pages long and consists of sayings of Sikh, Hindu & Islamic saints. It is in the form of 5000 hymns set as classical Indian melodies.
The architecture of the temple is an unique blend of Hindu & Muslim style of architecture. Guru Arjan Dev himself had designed it. This evolved into a distinct Sikh style of architecture for the subsequent Gurudwaras. The interior walls are decorated with sculpted wooden panels, intricate gold & silver ornamentation, frescoes & stained glass.
There are several important buildings surrounding the temple and the sarovar.
Akal Takht
The most important of them is the Akal Takht. The Akal Takht (“Throne of the Timeless One”) is one of five takhts (seats of power) of the Sikhs. The sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind built it. The original name was Akal Bunga. Originally it had only two storeys. It was a symbol of political sovereignty where spiritual and temporal concerns of the Sikh people could be addressed. Three more storeys were added during the reign of Ranjit Singh. Hari Singh Nalwa, a general of Ranjit Singh decorated the dome of Akhal Takht with gold.
Central Sikh Museum
Central Sikh Museum is housed in the Clock Tower. It has rich collection of paintings, coins, old arms, musical instruments and ancient manuscripts. It also boasts of an excellent library. The kangha (comb) of Guru Gobind Singh is also housed here.
Ramgariah Bunga
The word Bunga stands for a place to live. During the period of Sikh Empire, royal family members & rich merchants built 99 Bungas in Amritsar for the devotees to stay in them. Valiant warrior Jassa Singh Ramgariah built one bunga in the Golden Temple complex. There used to be 22 watch towers in the temple complex to keep watch on the invaders but today only 2 survive.
Sikh Victory over Lal Qila (Red Fort, Delhi)
In 1783, Jassa Singh Ramgariah and his associates Baghel Singh & Jassa Singh Ahuliwalia attacked Delhi. They led a large contingent of Khalsa Sikhs, attacked and captured Red Fort at Delhi. Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb hid in the Fort and sought peace treaty with them. He agreed to pay nazrana to the Sikh Empire.
Jassa Singh Ramgariah detached the throne of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. He brought it on elephants and kept it at the Golden Temple. It is part of Ramgariah Bunga.
Gurdwara Thara Sahib
Just next to Akal Takhat Sahib stands Gurudwara Thara Sahib. It was built in the memory of historical visit of ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Teg Bahadar to Hamandir Sahib.
Dukh Bhanjani Beri Tree
There are a number of holy trees in the complex. One of them is an old & sacred jujube tree that contains miraculous power. The tree stands in the Golden Temple complex on the eastern side of the Amrit Sarovar. According to the legend, the leper husband of Bibi Rajani was cured on taking a dip in the pond near the tree. Guru Ram Das decided to develop the reservoir into a proper bathing tank. The tree got the name Dukh Bhanjani, which means eradicator of suffering.
Ath Sath Tirath
Next to Dukh Bhanjani Beri is the place known as Ath Sath Tirath. It signifies that any one taking a dip here with devotion will have benefit of visit to 68 holy places. There are marble palanquin on the raised platform. It is the place where small pothis (manuscripts) of Gurbani were kept. These pothis (holy books) were brought to Amritsar for compilation of Adi Granth Sahib.
Darshani Deori
The main entrance leading to the pathway to Harmandir Sahib is the Darshani Deori. The gates of Darshani Deori get closed as soon as Guru Granth Sahib is taken for Sukh Asan (for Rest at Night) to Akal Takhat Sahib, The sewadar (attendants) on duty allows only devotees with special permission for taking part in the night sewa. This includes cleaning and washing of the sanctum sanctorum.
Lachi Ber
This particular Jujube tree bears small fruits, stands next to the Darshani Deori. During the brick lining of the Amrit Sarovar (Pool of Nectar) and construction of Harmandir Sahib. Guru Arjan Dev and a close devotee of the Guru, Bhai Salo Jee, used to sit here and supervise the construction.
Langar at the Golden Temple
Guru ka Langar at Golden Temple is the largest community kitchen in the world. It serves more than 60K people daily. On holidays & festival days the numbers are much higher and at times cross 100 K. Guru Nanak Dev initiated the tradition of serving langar. The third Guru, Guru Amar Das formalized it at Goindwal. Langar is very important to Sikhism.
No pilgrim or visitor is ever denied food at meal time in a gurudwara. Sharing a common meal sitting in a pangat is for a Sikh an act of piety. So is his participation in cooking or serving food in the langar and in cleaning the used dishes. The Sikh ideal of charity is essentially social in conception. A Sikh is under a religious obligation to contribute one-tenth of his earnings for the welfare of the community. He must also contribute the service of his hands whenever feasible. The service rendered in a langar is the most meritorious. The food served at the langar is the prasad.
Kada prasad
Kada prasad is a smooth, soft, velvety and rich halwa made with whole wheat flour (atta), sugar/jaggery & pure ghee. This super delicious halwa is kada prasad. The devotees get it as prasad. Its everybody’s favorite sweet and melts in the mouth. Devotees attach a lot of significance to Kada prasad as they believe that this prasad receives the blessings of the Guru. One can also buy the Kada prasad.
Heritage walk to the Golden Temple Complex
An area of 500 sq metres around the Golden temple is a no vehicle zone. Visitors have to leave their vehicles 500 metres away and walk up to the temple. It is a heritage walk as it takes the visitor through heritage buildings, beautiful sculptures & monuments and intriguing markets & shops. It is an interesting experience as one sees the symmetrical shops painted in the same colour and the sign boards in same design & colour. Reminded me of the pink coloured buildings of the walked city of old Jaipur.
Some more pics from Golden Temple Complex
Jallianwala Bagh
Jallianawala Bagh massacre is a black spot during the British rule in India. On 13th April 1919 (Baisakhi day), a large crowd of peaceful protestors had gathered in the bagh (garden). They were protesting against the atrocities of the British. Brigadier General Dyer was the commanding officer. He closed the only exit and ordered his troops to fire at the unarmed crowd of men & women. The troops kept on firing until their ammunition exhausted. At least 379 people died on the spot. Over 1,200 other people received injuries out of which 200 were serious. People believe that the actual number of deaths were much higher. Britain never formally apologized for the massacre but expressed ‘regret’ in 2019.
A memorial is erected at the site. American architect Benjamin Polk was the designer. Amar Jyoti (eternal flame) continuously burns at the site. On our way back we spent sometime at this place to pay our homage to the martyrs.
The gastronomical / culinary delights of Amritsar
Amritsar is famous throughout the world for its rich culture and cuisine. A trip to Amritsar is a true feast for the sesnses. No visit to Amritsar is complete without exploring its gullies for street food & many dhabas to taste the foodie delights.
The traditional Punjabi cuisine is mouth watering tandoori fare. Though rich in fat content, it is truly irresistible & delectable.
Vegetarian delights of Amritsar
For vegetarians the item that tops the list is Amritsari kulche-chole. No other city could replicate the delicious crispy kulchas that are on offer in Amritsar. Chole, tamarind chutney & cut onions are the accompaniments. Amritsari Chole also have a distinctive taste of their own. There are many varieties of kulchas – plain, aloo or stuffed, baked to perfection.
Kesar de dhaba is a legendary restaurant whose recipes have passed from one generation to another generation over the last 100 years. Their maa ki daal is lip smacking and equally delicious are the lachcha paratha, palak paneer & smoky baingan bharta. During the winter months Sarson Da Saag and Makki di roti is an evergreen and classic combination. Chana /Chole bhatura is yet another dish that finds many takers.
Amritsari chaat items include dahi papdi chaat & dahi bhallas. Lassi in Amritsar is thick & creamy. It is served in a large glass garnished with dry fruits. Lassi is available in many flavours. The other famous drink is Shikanji which is different from nimbu pani as mint & masala (to aid digestion) are added to it.
If you are craving for something sweet to eat then the best dish of Amritsar is phirni. This creamy delicacy served in earthen pots will definitely make you ask for a second helping. Daal pinni & moti choor ladoo are other sweets famous in Amritsar.
For Non-veg lovers
I am a pure vegetarian so I can not talk much about the non-veg flavours but I understand that non-veg fare is also soul-satiating. Amritsari fish is world famous. From chicken preparations to mutton chammps, bheja fry & paya – there is no dearth of non-veg dishes.
Amritsar – a friendly city
Amritsar is a friendly city with hospitable inhabitants. The residents of Amritsar welcome you with open arms. Like Punjabis in any other place, they love to live life to the fullest. They love their food and drink and are jovial and a bit boisterous by nature. Amritsari people are fun loving and are fond of music & dance. They love bright colours and love to dress that way. A visitor gets a positive vibe in the city.
Shopping in Amritsar
Amritsar is famous for its fine embroidery work. Phulkari dupattas are a speciality of Amritsar. Embroidered salwar suits, shawls, stoles & juttis are famous in Amritsar. They are much in demand with the visitors. Amritsari papads & wadis are famous.
Wagah Border
Wagah Border is the gate that divides India and Pakistan. Every evening, a ceremony known as Beating Retreat is held which is a show of strength of both the India and Pakistan soldiers.
Originally started to promote goodwill between the two nations, it is a blustering parade of the military soldiers. As the sun sets, the border gates open. The flags of both the nations are lowered in retreat.
Soldiers from either side shake hands. The ceremony ends with the folding of the flags and closing of the gates. It is a ceremonial spectacle. The enthusiastic show leaves you with a positive sense of patriotism in your heart. The atmosphere is charged up and the crowd chants ‘Jai Hind’. You also join the chorus at the top of your voice. Usually, the crowd on the Indian side is twice as large as that on Pakistani side. It is enough to down their voices.
Unfortunately I lost all the pics that I clicked at Wagah border.
Connectivity / season /stay
Train, air & road connectivity to Amritsar is availabler with all the major cities of India. Sikhs are spread all over the globe and their ardent desire is to visit the Golden Temple. International flights connect Amritsar with many major cities in the world. Two Shatabdi trains run between New Delhi & Amritsar and they cover the distance in 6 hours & 15 mins. They also offer the Executive Chair Car facility.
Amritsar has extreme weather during summers & winters. In June the maximum temperature goes up to 47°c while in extreme winters the temperature can dip below 0°c. The best period to visit Amritsar is in the month of November up to mid December and then in February & March. This period is the most pleasant in Amritsar.
There are several options to stay in Amritsar. Hotels of every range are there in plenty.
Regular Updates
I have clicked all the pics (except as mentioned)
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places. I have culled them out from various sources and do not take responsibility for any inadvertent errors in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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