http://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/indore-ujjain-two-intriguing-cities-poles-apart/
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| उद्घाटन भाषण देते हुए शैलेन्द्र शर्मा एवं मंचासीन अतिथि |
What a delightful experience it was to visit Indore & Ujjain – two cities which are poles apart. Indore, the capital of the Holkars is a foodies’ delight. Ujjain, among the most ancient & holy cities of India is a city of temples and many other wonders.
History of Indore:
Indore’s history is just three centuries old. It grew rapidly as a commercial and trading centre during the reign of the Holkars in the 18th/ 19th century. Prior to that it was used as a transit camp on the banks of Khan river. The Maratha army camped here whenever they had to attack or raid North India. During the reign of Ahilyabai Holkar (1767 to 1795), the capital was shifted to Maheshwar. But she continued to give importance to Indore and contributed towards its growth. In 1818, Holkars shifted back the capital to Indore. A temple dedicated to Indreshwar was built by the Holkars in 1741 and it gave the name Indore to the city.
Indore today:
Indore at an elevation of 550 metres (1800 feet) with a population of more than 2 million is the largest city of Central India. A fast growing Industrial & Commercial centre, it has wide roads, plush hotels, shopping malls & lavish shops. It is also a fashion centre and foodie’s delight. BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) system has been implemented in Indore and it was wonderful to see dedicated lanes for buses. Indore is today an educational centre with both IIM and IIT having a presence here. Pithampur near Indore is a large & important hub of vehicle and automobile industries in India.
As Indore’s history is just three centuries old , it doesn’t have many historical structures to boast of. Majority of the visitors use it as a transit place for a trip to Mandu, Ujjain & Maheshwar. I cover in brief some of the tourist spots of Indore.
Rajwada (Royal Palace):
It was built in 1766 by the Holkars. The seven storey structure with a beautiful imposing entrance looks attractive. The entrance has a lofty archway and a giant wooden door covered with iron studs. Rajwada is built in an impressive Maratha style of architecture known for austere aesthetic and suited to tropical climes. As one enters through the gate, a large courtyard greets the visitor. It is interspersed with balconies and windows surrounded by galleried rooms. It was built by Muslim artisans from Mandu. Wooden jharokas (windows), marble jalis (screens) & carved pillars enhance the beauty. The lower three floors of the Rajwada were made of stone and the upper ones of wood.
The southern part of the Rajwada was destroyed in early 19th century in a fire during attack by the Scindias. It was rebuilt. Another fire in 1984 destroyed the upper wooden floors of the structure. The durbar hall/ banquet hall on the first floor is impressive. Chattris (cenotophs) of some of the Holkar rulers are also built in the premises.
Lalbagh Palace
The Holkars moved to a new palace built in 1886 known as Lal Bagh Palace on the banks of Khan river. The baroque style building resembles the European palaces. It is set in a 28 acres garden which unfortunately has fallen on bad days. It is said that the garden once boasted of the most beautiful cultivated roses in the country.
The interior of the palace is extravagantly ornate. It is embellished with Italian marble columns, Belgian stained glass windows and Italian style wall paintings. Many interesting tales are narrated by the guide about the events & guests who visited the palace. It is said that the ballroom had springs under the wooden floor to give the dancers extra bounce. To avoid smoke from the kitchen, it is believed to have been built across the river. An underground tunnel connected the kitchen with the palace. The imposing gate at the entrance to the palace ground is a replica of the main gate of Buckingham Palace. A marble statue of Queen Victoria has been moved to the ground outside. Photography was not allowed inside the palace.
Kanch Mandir (Glass temple)
This is a Jain Mandir with the interiors made entirely of glass. It was built by a wealthy cotton merchant about 100 years ago. The walls, ceiling, floor and doors are all made of glass. The Mandir has a special glass chamber on the top floor. Here there are three statues of Lord Mahavira which gets multiplied infinite times in the glass. Photography was not allowed inside the premises.
Besides the above there are several prominent temples in the City. Gomatgiri is a beautiful location on a hill. Here, there is a Jain temple and a seven metre tall replica of the mammoth statue of Gomateshwara at Shravanbelgola. We enjoyed a visit to this place and the sunset from the top.
A perfect destination for lovers of street food
If for nothing else, one need’s to visit Indore for it’s delectable street food. Indore’s love affair with food is long & legendary. A visit the Sarafa Bazar (Jewellery Market) Street (located in the old city area of Indore behind the Rajwada) even at 12 in the night, would leave you wondering whether it’s Diwali time or New Year’s eve. Every city in India has a khau gali but none can beat the khau gali of Indore.
Sarafa Bazar at night is the most celebrated landmark of Indore for ardent lovers of street food. The place is brightly lit with neon lights. It is teeming with people of all ages, young and old, locals and tourists, who seem to be in a festive spirit. As the jewellery shops close down by 8.30 pm, the street comes to life again but this time with variety of food stalls occupying their allotted places in front of the closed shops. Some of the famous food stalls had started way back in the late seventies and are being run by second or even third generation of the family. They have perfected the recipes, though minor modifications have been made with changing times & customers’ preferences.
You have to park your vehicle in one of the many adjacent lanes and make your way to the Sarafa Bazar Street. No sooner do you reach the street, the unmistakable aroma of the freshly made chaat items and fried snacks wafting through the air reach your nostrils and activate your taste buds. You are spoilt for choice as the street has much to offer for lovers of chaat & snack items. As you hop from one stall to another savouring the various sinfully delicious chaat items, it not only satiates the irrepressible appetite but also fuels it to try something new. It is claimed that all the items are made hygienically and in pure ghee. The connoisseurs of good food can vouch for that.
Here is a sample of the fares on offer:
There are atleast 12 varieties available of the ever favourite Panipuri/ Golgappa/ Puchka.
A speciality of Indore is ‘Bhutte ki Kees’. It is made from shredded corn mixed & boiled with milk and shallow fried in ghee. Masala made from spices is added and then topped with fresh coriander & grated coconut and a dash of lemon juice added. It acquires a moist, smooth texture that melts in the mouth.
Sabudana Khichdi: This regular breakfast item of Maharashtra is prepared in a distinctive Indori style.
Poha: Poha with misal and Jalebi is the signature breakfast dish of Indore.
Dahi Vada/ Bada: The most well known landmark of the Street is Joshi Dahi Bada Shop which is in operation since 1977. Joshiji (dressed in spotless white kurta) is a showman. It is an experience to watch him prepare the dahi vada dona (bowl made with dry leaves) before serving it to the customers. After putting vada in the dona, he pours hung curd over it and then using two fingers picks up 5 different spices at a time and sprinkles them without the spices getting mixed !! He then throws it up in the air deftly for the spices to mix properly without spilling a drop! There is always a crowd in front of his shop and his stock sells out in record time. I enjoyed the entire process though the dahi vada was not exactly to my taste as the curd turned out to be sweet.
Garadu & Ratalu: Garadu is type of a yam and looks similar to Ratalu/ Shakarkand (Sweet Potato). When fried to perfection it becomes crispy and tastes good when sprinkled with masala. Shakarkand / Ratalu is also served bolied or roasted.
Other items which are available are khopra (coconut) pattice, dal bafla, kanji vada, ragda pattice, chole, samosa, kachori, moong bhajiyas and the list is endless. Indoris have a sweet tooth and the chaat items are followed by sweets such as jalebis, jalebas, malpua or gulabjamuns served warm. During summer, some prefer to go for mango shrikhand , Indori shikanji or one of the many flavours of kulfis. While during winter, kesari dudh served in kullhads (earthen pots) is preferred.
After being stuffed to the brim, the last item on the agenda is Paan (Betel leaf). Indoris like it sweet and Petha paan is a speciality of Indore.
We spent almost an hour and a half at the street enjoying many of the delicacies. As we returned to our hotel, we were a bit apprehensive about our tummy. Fortunately next day everyone was in fine fettle. We thought of having tandoori roti & curry/daal in the evening but when someone in the group proposed another visit to the Sarafa Bazar, everyone readily agreed. Lo ! we were there again to relish those dishes which we had to forgo on the previous evening and also the favourites of the previous evening!.
I am sure after reading this you must be having an irresistible urge to take the next flight to Indore. Wait for few more months and let the food street come back to life post the pandemic before planning your trip.
Ujjain – an ancient city of many wonders
Ujjain situated on the banks of Shipra or Kshipra river is such an intriguing city. Among the most ancient cities of India, it is a place where myths, legends & histories jostle & clash with each other.
As per Hindu mythology, Ujjain is one of the places along with Prayagraj (Allahabad), Haridwar & Nasik which received a drop of the heavenly nectar following the samudra manthan (churning of the ocean). It is therefore considered holy & sacred and Kumbh Mela is held here once in 12 years.
As per Garud Puran there are 7 holy cities in Hinduism known as Saptapuri where pilgrims are blessed with Moksha (liberation of the cycle of birth & death). Here is the Shloka “अयोध्या मथुरा माया काशी काञ्ची अवन्तिका । पुरी द्वारावती चैव सप्तैते मोक्षदायकाः ॥” (Ayodhya, Mathura, Maya (Mayapuri or Haridwar), Kashi (Varanasi), Kanchi (Kanchipuram), Avantika (Ujjain) and Dwaravati (Dwaraka)) These seven cities are givers of Moksha and are called Mokshapuri. Here puri doesn’t refer to Jagannath Puri but it stands for ‘city’. In ancient times the region around Ujjain was also known as Avanti, Avantika or Indrapuri and Ujjayini was the capital.
Ujjain is also the holy place where one of the most important Jyotirlinga ‘Mahakaleshwar’ is located. It is the abode of Mahakal, the ferocious version of Shiva.
As per legends Dushan was an Asur King blessed by Brahma to be invincible. He started to trouble the Brahmins during their yagya. At that time Chandrasen was the popular king of Avanti or Ujjayini. He was an ardent devotee of Shiva. The neighbouring kings were envious of his popularity. They sought help from Dushan and the other demons and attacked Avanti. Chandrasen prayed to Shiva and sought his help. Lord Shiva took the form of Mahakaal and demolished all the demons including Dushan. At the request of his devotee Shiva acceded to stay put & active in Avanti for it’s future protection. Skanda Purana describes the glory of Ujjayini or Mahakal Van in great detail.
Ujjain is the place where Sati’s elbow fell and the Harsiddhi temple in Ujjain is one of the 51 Sakthipeethas.
Ujjain is also the place where boy Krishna and his friend Sudama received their education in the Gurukul of Sandipan Rishi.
Ujjain thus becomes important for the followers of all three aspects of Hinduism – Shaivism, Vaishnavism & Shatkt.
From 4th Century onwards, Ujjain has been an important centre of mathematics and astronomical learning. Traditional scholars from Ujjain have been studying the ephemiris and preparing the tables of astrological almanac that control the fate of millions of Hindus. Incidentally, the Tropic of Cancer also passes through the Northern part of the city.
The legendary mathematicians Brahmadutta (598-655 CE) and Varahamihira (505-587 CE) lived and worked in Ujjain. Importance of Ujjain can also be gauzed from the fact that it serves as the reference location for many of the Hindu calendars. Vikram Samvat (with a zero point in 57 BCE) named after the legendary king Vikramaditya originated in this ancient city. It is also the base for Saka Calendar (zero point in 78 CE). Ujjain’s location has been used as an anchor point for IST (Indian Standard Time).
Archaeological discovery & findings:
Excavations at a site some 4 kms north of the city have revealed pottery & iron objects dating back to the 8th century BCE. Structural activity is discernible from the 4th century BCE with the discovery of a brick-lined tank & canal. Creamated bones as well as coins, terracotta figurines, beads and semi precious stones have been discovered. All these discoveries show signs of continual habitation. It is believed that Avanti was a thriving metropolis. An account written by a Greek Merchant who voyaged to India in 1st century CE mentions a prosperous city by the name ‘Ozene’.
History of Ujjain:
The Mauryan Emperor Ashoka was the governor of Ujjain in 3rd century BCE before he assumed kingship at Patliputra after the death of his father Bimbisara. Six hundred years later the Gupta King Chandragupta II (Vikramaditya) made Ujjain an important cultural and administrative centre of the Gupta empire.
Ujjain acquired literary immortality during his reign when the great Sanskrit poet Kalidas celebrated the city in his epic poem Meghdoot. He hailed Ujjain as ‘the town fallen from heaven’. Kalidas while describing Ujjain in his poem writes ‘It’s houses are like palaces and palaces are like mountains’. He adds on ‘if heaven is a magnification of Ujjain then it must be a very interesting place indeed’.
In the 4th-5th century CE, Ujjain continued to be an important centre under the Gupta rulers. Later it became the capital of the Parmara kings who ruled Ujjain between 9th to 12th centuries. Ujjain was sacked in 1235 by Delhi Sultanate. Later it passed on to the Sultans of Mandu. After the defeat of Baz Bahadur of Mandu at the hands of Akbar’s army, it came under Mughal rule. Akbar fortified the city and the remains of some of the gates built by him are still visible. In the first half of the 18th century, the Mughals made Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh as the Governor of Malwa. He built one of the five Jantar Mantars at Ujjain and also built several temples at Ujjain.
Thereafter Malwa including Ujjain went through a period of turmoil before Marathas took control of it. In 1750 while Indore remained with Holkars, Ujjain came under the control of Scindias.
Ujjain is a city of temples and there is a popular saying that if one comes to Ujjain with two cartloads of grain and offers only one handful at each temple, one would still run short of offerings. Ujjain with a population of over half a million is a busy commercial centre and the people in this temple town go about their daily activities oblivious to their religious importance & significance. We had only half a day at our disposal so we visited only the major temples in the town.
Mahakaleshwar Temple:
The most important temple in the town is undoubtedly the Jyotirlinga temple Mahakaleshwar. The temple is always crowded and there is always a queue for darshan. My brother-in-law (sister’s husband) Ashok’s contacts worked like magic and after entering Ujjain, we were escorted to the temple and had VIP darshan. . It is believed that it is the only Jyotirlinga which is still active today. Another unique feature of this temple is that it is the only Jyotirlinga which is Dakshinmukhi (facing south). It is also revered as the only Swaymbhu (self actualized) Jyotirlinga.
The sanctum of Mahakaleshwar is in an underground chamber, while a shrine to Omkareshwar is on the ground floor and one to Nagchandreshwar on the third floor (this shrine opens for darshan only once in a year on Nag Panchami day). All the devotees have to take darshan from the vestibule which is outside the sanctum separated by huge silver doors. Only those who pay a hefty sum for the special abhishek or are VIPs are allowed inside the sanctum. We were treated in the second category and were allowed inside the sanctum for 10 mins for performing the special puja.
There is a special aarti conducted in the sanctum each morning before the break of dawn. This is known as Bhasma Aarti. The Linga is anointed with ash – Shiva, the master of cosmic time is propitiated with ashes. This signifies the end of one’s existential cycle. In earlier times, the bhasma (ash) used was supposedly the ash of the last corpse cremated at the shamshan ghat (cremation ground).
This temple is located near the Rudra Sagar tank and even though the site of the Linga is ancient, the present temple was built in the 18th century in place of an earlier wooden structure. It is a massive building of five levels out of which three are above ground level. The stone shikhara is decorated with elaborate carvings.
There are many other subsidiary shrines in the temple premises.
Kal Bhairav Temple:
Standing on a high plinth in a walled courtyard, the temple is decorated with some interesting paintings in the Malwa style. As is the norm with Kal Bhairav temples, liquor is offered to the deity. It is believed that the deity takes few sips from the bottle.
My brother-in-law, Ashok bought a bottle of VAT 69 from the market and gave it to the priests who poured some of it in a container and took it to the mouth of the deity. Lo! the container got empty in front of our eyes (we don’t know what innovative arrangements have been made to store the liquor in a container behind the idol). For the faithfuls it is no less than a miracle!. The priest returned the bottle to us with the remaining portion and like blind followers we all had a sip accepting it as a prasad of the Lord!!
The black-faced langoors can be found in plenty outside the temple gate. Pilgrims offer them bananas. Banana skins were strewn all around the place.
Harsiddhi Temple:
Our next call was at the Sakthi Peeth – Harsiddhi temple where Sati’s elbow had fallen. Shri Yantra or the symbol of Shakti is also enshrined here. The central deity here is Ma Annapurna in the form of a rock. Her vermilion-smeared image stands between those of goddesses Mahalakshmi & Mahasaraswati. The temple was built during the Maratha period. It has two towering deep stambhs (essential feature of the temples of Maharashtra) that are lit up on the eve of every festival.
Mangalnath Temple:
This temple on the banks of Shipra river on the outskirts of the town finds a mention in the Puranas as the birth place of Mangal (Mars). Mars is visible clearly from this temple. Shiva is worshipped here as Mangalnath.
Sandipani Ashram:
Our last stop was at the Sandipani Ashram. This is believed to be the Gurukul where Krishna & his childhood friend Sudama are believed to have received instruction from Guru Sandipani. There are several temples in the compound. There is an ancient sacred tank known as Gomti Kund adjacent to the Ashram. As per mythology, Krishna had called all the holy rivers to pour their waters in this tank so that his Guru would not have to go on pilgrimage to the several rivers.
After spending 6 hours in the holy city of Ujjain we returned to our Hotel in Indore in time for dinner.
Indore is well connected by air, rail & road. Ujjain is 55 kms from Indore. There are many good hotels in Indore including the Star hotels. We stayed at Effotel Hotel while my sister & brother-in-law preferred to stay at the more plush Radisson, next door. There are many stay options in Ujjain too including two properties Shipra Residency & Hotel Avantika run by MP State Tourism Department Corporation.
I have clicked all the pics (except 3 pics which have been downloaded from the web).
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Disclaimer: I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. No responsibility is taken for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
मोक्ष-दायिनी सप्तपुरियों में से एक उज्जयिनी
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| अनुज साहू, ललित शर्मा एवं विवेक तिवारी उज्जैन कुंभ |
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| उज्जैन नगरी का प्राचीन द्वार |
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| उज्जैन नगरी की सैर |
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| उज्जैन नगरी का राम घाट |
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| उज्जैन नगरी के घाटों पर श्रद्धालुओं की भीड़ |
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| उज्जैन नगरी की सैर |
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| उज्जैन नगरी की सैर |
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| उज्जैन नगरी की सैर |
संगोष्ठी के बाद घुमक्कड़ मिलन एवं डेरे की ओर मुसाफ़िर
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| मंगलनाथ जोन की ओर जाते हुए भीड़ |
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| बिकाश शर्मा के साथ संगोष्ठी स्थल पर |
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| सामाजिन न्याय एवं अधिकारिता मंत्री थावरचंद गहलोत के साथ |
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| मंच से संगोष्ठी में सहयोग |
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| तृतीय सत्र के मंचासीन अतिथि |
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| कुंभ में सांझ के समय स्नान पर्व की भीड़ |
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| भोपाल में घुमक्कड़ संजय कौशिक, ललित शर्मा, सचिन जांगड़ा, हरेन्द्र धर्रा |
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