http://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/exploring-mumbai-through-my-eyes-lens/
Introduction:
This week too I take you on another interesting journey of exploring Mumbai through my eyes & lens. This is in continuation of my previous post on Mumbai. Hope you enjoyed going through it. In case you missed it, here is the link: http://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/exploring-the-heritage-landmarks-of-mumbai-from-the-colonial-era/
I remember reading these lines in Hindi somewhere. They are simple yet beautifully sum up the essence of Mumbai
दिन-रात चलती है मुंबई, हर पल रंग बदलती है मुंबई ,
न थकती है ,न रुकती है ,बस चलती है मुंबई, दिन रात जगती है मुंबई ,
शोहरत –दौलत का नाम है मुंबई, हर किसी के लिए काम है मुंबई ,
बस थोड़ी सी बादनाम है मुंबई, लेकिन अपनी तो जान है मुंबई.
My travelogue today
It takes you to some other interesting sights & monuments of Mumbai. I had a 5 days a week office. Saturday was family time – we used to go to movies, plays, brunches or relax at home. While most of the Mumbai slept on till late on Sunday morning – this was a luxury I didn’t indulge into ! A majority of my Sunday mornings were spent in exploring Mumbai!
The many places of worship – Hindu temples, Jain temples, Buddhist Vipassana pagoda, churches, mosques, Parsi fire temples, synagogues, gurudwaras are strewn all over the city and depict the various cultures & religions which have made Mumbai their home and live in harmony. So here we go today to some of them and also some other interesting places. Enjoy the journey as you sip your coffee and wait for the rains !!
Banganga
Banganga located in the plush Malabar Hills is like an oasis in a desert. Once you are in the vicinity of Banganga you get the feeling of being transported to another world. It is far from the madding crowd of the metropolis called Mumbai.
Mythological background
India is a land of myths & legends and if they are to be believed then Banganga in Malabar Hills can be considered as the most sacred spot of Mumbai. According to beliefs, Ram & Lakshman had visited this place near the sea shore during their search for abducted Sita. Ram was exhausted after a long trek and felt thirsty. He asked Lakshman to fetch water and as the only water available nearby was the salty sea water, Lakshman shot an arrow (ban) into the ground and river Ganga sprang out and hence the name ‘Ban-ganga’. Even though sea is only 100 metres away from this place, the water of this tank is sweet.
There are many temples, old & new, around the tank, the most famous and ancient being the Walkeshwar & Rameshwar temples of Shiva. The story behind Walkeshwar temple is that Ram wanted to worship Shiva on the sea shore but could not find a Shiva Linga so he made a linga out of sand (walu in Marathi or balu in Hindi) and worshipped it. Hence the name ‘Walukeshwar’.
Historical perspective
As per the historical records, Banganga tank was constructed during the period of Shilahar kings in the 12th century as a reservoir of drinking water. It was destroyed during the Portuguese occupation of Mumbai but was reconstructed in 1715 with donations by a businessman Rama Kamath from Saraswat Gaud Brahmin community. It is believed that the tank gets water from an underground spring! There was a time when there were around 20 large water tanks (talab/ pokhar in Hindi) in Mumbai that used to meet the water needs of the residents. Over time as the population increased and alternate sources of water (the lakes) were found. These tanks got filled up and there is no trace of them today except for the Banganga Tank and the Bandra Tank.
Description of the Banganga tank
As one enters the peaceful environs of Banganga after climbing down the Malabar Hill, one feels transported to the ghats of Varanasi or Rishikesh. There are steps (ghats) all around the rectangular water body. Many ancient idols of gods & goddesses lie strewn all around, open to the sky, almost in a state of neglect. While you enter from the rear side, the actual entrance is from the opposite side i.e. sea-side. There are two deep stambhs (pillars) which were used for lighting the earthen lamps. Under an ancient tree, the place where Lord Ram was believed to have come, his foot prints made in marble are still venerated. The entire place, including, the temples all around are managed by trusts run by Gaud Saraswat Brahamins. Compared to majority of the Hindu religious locations the place looked relatively clean and well kept. Though, the scope for improvement is always there.
I have visited this place twice, once during monsoon on an overcast day when there was a slight drizzle. I didn’t mind getting wet in the drizzle as I went around the place. It was fascinating to see a group of young boys swimming and having fun & frolic in the tank. A flock of ducks & geese add a beautiful touch to the sacred place.
Tea-break
It is a 7-8 mins walk from the place where you park the car and go down to the tank. On the way there is an ordinary looking restaurant with just two tables serving tea and freshly fried samosas & jalebis. They tasted heavenly in the rains!
Classical music festival
A festival of classic music is held around the holy tank every year during January in which India’s leading artists perform.
This place would definitely rank high in my list of must visit spots of Mumbai. Enjoy the pics and get motivated to visit this place ! The temples remain closed between 12 noon to 4 p.m.
The Hanging Gardens
If you happen to visit Malabar Hills then you can also visit the Hanging Gardens. The Hanging Gardens also known as Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens, are terraced gardens perched at the top of Malabar Hill. They provide sunset views over the Arabian Sea and feature numerous hedges carved into the shapes of animals. It is favourite place of the Malabar Hill residents for their morning or evening walks. A tree top walk affording excellent views of the Arabian Sea is being planned in Malabar Hills.
Pictorial trip of Banganga
Babulnath Shiva temple
The four famous temples of Mumbai are Siddhi Vinayak, Mahalaxmi, Babulnath and Mumbadevi. Siddhi Vinayak attracts lakhs of devotees from far & wide and we have visited it several times. We have visited the other three temples too but my favourite is Babulnath. Going to Babulnath had an added attraction. It invariably warrants a visit to one of our favourite restaurants ‘Soam’. Since it is just right across the road from the base of Babulnath hill. It is difficult to say which is the bigger attraction!!
Situated on the top of a small hillock, Babulnath temple dedicated to Shiva is one of the oldest temples of Mumbai. Babulnath stands for Lord of Babul. Once upon a time the entire hillock was covered with babul (gum arabic tree) forest.
History of the temple
Babulnath Temple Shiva Linga and other Idols were originally consecrated in the 12th century by the then Hindu Silahara king. Over a period of time the temple was buried and was forgotten. Banganga then was a small village. The idols were re-discovered (unearthed) sometime between 1700 and 1780. The first temple was built in the 1780. The idols including the main Shiva Linga, Ganesh, Hanuman, Parvati are in the temple. The fifth one was immersed in the sea because it was found damaged when it was dug out.
The first Babulnath Temple was patronized by the Gujarati merchants. Later a bigger temple was built in 1890 with contributions from the Gujarati merchants and Maharaja Sayajirao Gaikwad of Baroda. During Mahashivaratri & Mondays of shravan month, lakhs of devotees throng the temple. The abhishek of Shivling is an elaborate ritual. Due to my wife’s wish, we performed the abhishek once. There are beautiful carvings /sculptures depicting various gods & goddesses all around the temple wall. One can either take an elevator at a nominal charge of Re 1/- per head or climb up about 60 steps to the temple. I preferred the climb as it afforded you view of architecturally beautiful doorway & old aesthetically built buildings on the way.
Pictorial tour of Babulnath temple
St. Thomas Cathedral
St. Thomas Cathedral in Fort area of Mumbai is part of British history and is a beautiful heritage building. It was built as a church in 1718. Not many know that Churchgate station was named after this church because the road from the station led to this church. At that time the church was visible once you came out of the station. It was converted into a Cathedral in 1837.
In the bustling commercial district of Fort area it is an oasis of absolute peace. It is built in the gothic & classic style of architecture. The interiors of the cathedral are awesome. There is ample use of painted stained glasses. There are beautiful carved figures & sculptures in marble. This Cathedral was recipient of UNESCO award for heritage buildings. I have visited the cathedral twice and always admire the architectural wonder. It is such a blissful feeling being in communion with the Almighty. On your next visit to Fort area please do not miss a visit to this place !!
Pictorial tour of St. Thomas Cathedral
Jain temple
One of the lanes opposite the CSMT station in Mumbai leads to Bora Bazar. Walk down for about 600 meters and one reaches the 206 years old Shree Kot Shantinath Jain temple. The temple is made of marble and is on two floors. It has intricate carving and beautiful sculptures of Jain Tirthankars. It is mini Ranakpur in Mumbai !!!
Pictorial tour of Bora Bazar
A walk in the street in Bora Bazar
Haji Ali
Haji Ali is a sight no one can miss if going to South Mumbai via Worli. It is a dargah that contains the tomb of Sayed Peer Haji Ali Bukhari, a wealthy business man from Bukhara who after travelling to several countries reached Mumbai in early 15th century and decided to settle down here. People started believing that he had many magical & healing powers and his followers kept on increasing. After his death, his tomb was built on this islet which was later connected to the mainland by a 800 meters long causeway. The dargah is more than 500 years old. It is made of marble and has a single tall minaret. Renovations have been done several times.
People of all faiths & religions visit the dargah to seek blessings of the Pir. There are shops on one side of the causeway that sell flowers & chadars. Devotees buy them & offer at the dargah. Other souvenirs are also available. There is a mosque adjacent to the dargah.
Surrounded by sea on three sides, a walk to the dargah via the causeway turned out to be interesting. After a shower, the sky was overcast and the sea was rough. The waves hitting the black rocks surrounding the dargah created an amazing sight. During high tide the water submerges the causeway. Accessibility becomes limited.
A child seeking alms
While going to the dargah, I saw a child all wrapped up to protect himself from the fury of the cold sea breeze on a rainy day. He looked at me with such expectant eyes for alms that I felt both pity & sad at his plight. I dropped the 50 rupee note in his bowl that I had kept handy to offer at the dargah!
Haji Ali Juice Centre
After visiting the dargah, I had fresh carrot juice at the legendary Haji Ali Juice Centre. This joint is very popular among locals for its shakes, ice creams and faloodas and being strategically located does roaring business!!
Jama Masjid or the Mosque
In the crowded Sheikh Memon Street of Crawford Market lies the majestic Jama Masjid built in 1802. Earlier the mosque was located in Dongri area but when the fort was being built there it was razed. The present location belonged to a Konkani Muslim merchant who had a large tank here surrounded by a garden. He allowed the mosque to be built on his land provided the tank was preserved. So the mosque still contains the tank which is used for wudu (religious abulations). The mosque has intricate carvings and fascinating marble stonework.
Mumba Devi Temple
Mumba devi is the goddess of Mumbai and the name Mumbai is derived from Mumba. The etymology of Mumba is Ma Amba. An old temple of Mumba devi is located in Kalbadevi area not far from the sea. She was originally the patron goddess of Agaris (salt collectors) & Kolis (fisher-folk). The temple of Mumba devi is believed to have been built in 1675. Due to the security threat at the time of my visit, photography was not allowed from inside or outside. This is the only picture I managed from a distance and the security police even objected to this. A lot of devotees throng the temple. The main deity is depicted in the form of a black stone. I took the blessings of the goddess.
Sion Fort
I and my younger son had a brush with Mumbai’s history of yore when we decided to visit the Sion Fort on a Sunday morning. It is located on a conical hillock in the bustling residential area of Sion, very close to the Eastern Express Highway. The fort is not visible from the road. As we climbed up the steps of Nehru Udyan, a beautifully laid out garden, we found that Rotary Club of Sion had organized a drawing/painting contest for the children of the nearby schools.
On climbing a little further, the small yet imposing fort came into the view. A pathway and a flight of steps took us to the top of the fort. The fort is today in a state of dilapidation though some restoration work has been carried out by ASI in recent years. To my surprise there was no litter and the general upkeep was good.
It really amazes me that majority of the Mumbaikars are not even aware of the existence of some interesting historical structures sitting right within the city limits.
History of Sion Fort
The Sion Fort was built sometime in the late 17th century and is nearly 340 years old. It was built in the era when Bombay was a group of seven islands and this Fort was built on the Parel Island at the boundary to serve as an outpost and watch tower for the British. A creek separated it from the Salsette island that was under the control of the Portuguese. There are two versions about this Fort. One version says that it was built by the British Governor of Bombay while according to another it was built by Portuguese and was later gifted to British who strengthened it further.
Description of the Fort
A flight of steps takes you to the top of the Fort from where one gets a panoramic view of the city. A solitary canon lying in a state of neglect is a reminder that this Fort was once inhabited by the British soldiers. There is a water tank on the way to the top and it is believed that there was once a tunnel that connected to another nearby fort.
These pics will give you a peek into the history of Sion Fort.
Bandra Fort
Castella de Aguada (Portuguese: Fort of the Waterpoint), also known as the Bandra Fort, is a fort located in Bandra. It was built by the Portuguese in 1640 as a watchtower overlooking Mahim Bay and the Arabian Sea. The fort lies over several levels, from sea level to an altitude of 24 metres (79 ft). The fort is in ruins. It is beyond Taj Lands End Hotel.
There is a garden adjacent to the fort where many open-air events are held. Even we had attended a musical evening of Shubha Mudgal organized with sponsorship of Times of India.
The view of Bandra Sea Link & Arabian sea is breath-taking.
Pictorial trip of Bandra fort
Basilica of our Lady of the Mount
The Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, more commonly known as Mount Mary Church, is a Roman Catholic Basilica in Bandra. A chapel was constructed by Jesuit priests from Portugal in the 17th Century but it was destroyed in 1738. The present structure is little over 100 years old. It has a semi-Gothic architecture. The Basilica stands on a hillock, 80 metres above sea-level. Lakhs of devotees visit it during the annual Bandra Fair.
The Cathedral of the Holy name
The Cathedral of Holy Name in Colaba was made open to public in 1905. It is a Roman Catholic Cathedral and has beautiful frescoes, stained- glass work, painted ceilings. The Archbishop of Bombay resides in a building next to this Cathedral.
Temples & eateries of Matunga
A walk through the bylanes of Matunga in Mumbai gives one the feeling of being transported to mini Madras (Chennai).
There was a time not many years ago when aroma of freshly ground coffee beans would waft through the air as you approached Matunga. That aroma is now restricted around the few South Indian eateries that still dot the map of Matunga east.
Temples of Matunga
On a Sunday morning I decided to take a walk in Matunga hopping from one temple to another. I have no hesitation in saying that Hindu culture, tradition & temple worship in its true & authentic spirit survives only in South India. The South Indian Hindu temples are far cleaner, better managed & look more aesthetic compared to their Northern counterparts.
The famous temples in Matunga are the 67 years old Shri Ram Mandir ( Kochu Guruvayoor) managed by the Asthika Samaj. It is a magnificent temple which besides the shrine of Ram has beautiful shrines of Shiva, Subramanyam Swamy (Kartikeya), Ayyapan Swamy, Anjaneya (Hanuman). The black stone idols, elaborate aarti with brass lamps & the musical instruments played by the temple troupe create a mystic feel. The payasam prasad is divine ( it happened to be a special puja day that day! )
Another beautiful temple is the Ram Mandir on Teleng road managed by Bhajana Samaj built in 1960. Other notable temples are the Sankar Mutt temple, Shiva temple and the Kanakya Parameshwari temple (with unusual towers at the entrance).
Matunga was once a stronghold of South Indians but their numbers have dwindled over the years. Now there is also a sizeable population of Gujaratis & Jains and there are a couple of remarkable Jain temples with beautiful marble architecture & glass work. Unfortunately in many of these Jain temples photography is not allowed.
Eateries of Matunga
Do visit Matunga for enjoying the delicious sumptuous South Indian snacks at some of the famous Udupi joints. My favourites – Idly (Cafe Madras), Neer dosa (Ram Ashray), Medu Vada (Arya Bhavan), Thattu Idly (Anand Bhavan). There are some equally good road side joints. A hearty breakfast is complete only after a piping hot steel tumbler of filter coffee & pan bida. This undoubtedly gives you the feeling of ‘nirvana’. I am sure I have been successful in activating your taste buds.
While leaving you invariably end up buying packets of banana, jackfruit & tapioca chips, udad dal /rice murukku and milagai podi (gun powder)
Some of the eateries have a cult following and are believed to have been visited by the likes of Mukesh Ambani & Sachin Tendulkar.
The flower & fruit markets in Matunga are also worth a visit.
Pictorial trip of Matunga
A city of two tales
Mumbai is a happening city where the young and those young at heart have plenty to enjoy. It is a relatively safe city where people can roam till late in the night. A city with several discotheques & pubs and restaurants offering every cuisine from across the globe. Here ‘Stand up’ comedy shows are appreciated & cheered by the crowd. It is possible only in a city like Mumbai that a bold show like ‘Vagina Monologues’ runs to packed auditoriums.
Mumbai in Hindi films
The films specially by Basu Chatterjee & Hrishikesh Mukherjee have captured the essence of the fascinating city of Mumbai. The names that readily come to my mind are Rajnigandha, Choti si baat, Gharonda, Piya ka ghar, Baton Baton mai etc. They brilliantly depict the everyday lives of the people of mumbai mahanagari. They were a departure from the usual blockbusters and underworld-inspired gangster movies. What draws us to them is their music and the way these films take us through the many moods and landscapes of Mumbai on celluloid.
The story of modern Mumbai in all its diversity and complexity was well depicted in a movie ‘Life in a Metro’
Mumbai is a city where lovers & married couples find it very difficult to have some private intimate moments. If you take a walk down Marine Drive you would find many couples sitting on the low parapet wall facing the sea with their backs to the city, their heads huddled !!
The other side of Mumbai
Mumbai is just not a city of dreams – it is a city of skyscrapers and glitter. Behind the glimmer of all the glitter the city also hides an underbelly. The darker side of Mumbai – the city of gangsters, underworld, drugs & crime. The city also has one of the largest slums of Asia – Dharavi. Dharavi is the most densely populated area in the world. In an area of 2.1 sq kms more than 1 million people reside!!
In conclusion:
I hope you enjoyed exploring the many delights of Mumbai through my travelogue. In case you have not visited some of them, keep a day aside to visit them during your next visit to Mumbai.
Regular Updates
I have clicked all the pics.
In case you have enjoyed going through this travelogue then please comment below and share the link with your friends. If you have missed reading my earlier blogs then you can go to the site www.travelindiathroughmyeyes.com and click on the heading of the respective blogs.
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. I do not take any responsibility for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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