https://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/mandu-a-feast-for-the-eyes-senses/
Various historians, authors & travellers over the centuries have spoken of Mandu in eulogizing terms as the city of joy, gaiety or pleasure. Medieval cities like Hampi or Mandu have a plethora of monuments spread over a vast area. When you visit these places you marvel with wonder at the genius and spirit behind contemporary engineering and building feats!!
“What words of mine can describe the beauty of the grass and the wild flowers? They clothe each hill and dale, each slope and plain. I know of no place so pleasant in climate and so pretty in scenery as Mandu in the rainy season……. ”. This is how Mughal Emperor Jahangir describes the beauty of Mandu.
Introduction:
I had visited Mandu in early seventies on a school trip. Though the memories had dimmed but it had left an indelible impression on my mind. I had always yearned to pay another visit. I got this opportunity a couple of years back and I revisited Mandu during the rainy season more than 400 years after Jahangir. Indeed, one couldn’t have agreed more with Jahangir. A visit to Mandu (Mandavgarh) is like an enchanting encounter with history.
Oh! to be in Mandu during monsoon with lush green hills & dales and water-filled lakes & talaos. In addition, Mandu is like an enchantress that entices you with her charm & beauty. The era of kings & emperors, battles & conflicts, love stories & romance have long back become a part of folklore. However, the beautiful, magnificent palaces & monuments continue to hold sway over our imagination.
Mandu is located at a distance of around 95 kms from Indore atop the Malwa Plateau at an elevation of 633 metres. The drive from Indore is pleasant affording scenic views. We made an impromptu stop on the way to enjoy the view of a waterfall. In addition, the sight of decorated camels and a little village boy with bow & arrow attracted us.
Why should we read history?
History is a dull subject for many who believe that we should not dwell in the past but be forward looking!! They are true only to a small extent. I believe that history provides us with thousands of years of collective wisdom and experience to learn from. We learn the patterns of the events in the history. This helps us in recognizing the patterns in the events going around us to enable us to take the appropriate actions. The events of recent past in USA are a pointer towards that. Only if they had read history!!
Brief History of Mandu:
Mandu has a chequered history replete with many interesting tales. The fortress town spread over an area of 72 sq kms has silently witnessed the rise & fall of many dynasties across a millennium.
Scholars believe that the earliest reference to Mandu is in a Jain inscription in Sanskrit dated 555 CE found at Talapur when it was called Mandapa-Durga. It’s Prakrit equivalent is Mandava which is still in use. However, over time it became Mandu.
Surprisingly, no historical records of the next three centuries are available. In the 10th Century, Mandu fort was under the Guhara-Pratihara empire of Kanauj. This is established by an inscription found in 946 CE in Rajasthan.
By the end of 10th century Parmara dynasty established their control over Mandu. Their capital was Ujjain but they later made Dhar as their capital. Parmara dynasty saw its golden time during the reigns of Raja Munja and Raja Bhoj. One of the talaos in Mandu is still called Munja Talao. An inscription found in Mandu mentions that in 1068 CE it was under Bhattaraka Devendra Deva, a vassal chief of the Parmara King. It is believed that few temples were built in Mandu during that period. They included the Shiva temple and few other temples around the Lohani caves. ASI has identified few carved stones of the temples which had been used later in the construction of the palaces.
In 1227 CE, Iltutmish, the ruler of Delhi invaded Malwa and ransacked Ujjain and surrounding areas but left Mandu. The power of the Parmara dynasty was on a decline. In 1293, Jalaluddin Khilji, ruler of Delhi attacked and looted Mandu. Thereafter, Alauddin Khilji attacked and defeated Mahak Deo, ruler of Malwa in 1305. Malwa including Mandu was added to Delhi Sultanate.
After Tughlaqs replaced Khiljis at Delhi, Malwa came under their rule. Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq made Dilawar Khan Ghuri as the governor of Malwa. After the death of Firoz Shah Tughlaq, the Tughlaq dynasty weakened. Taking advantage of this, Dilawar Khan declared himself as independent ruler of Malwa in 1401 CE. His son Hoshang Shah shifted the capital from Dhar to Mandu. He renamed Mandu as Shadiabad (the city of joy). Even though Hoshang Shah was busy with military expeditions, the construction of Jami Masjid and his own tomb were started during his reign. He died in 1435. His son Mahmud Shah’s rule was short lived as in 1436 he was poisoned by his confidante Mahmud Khan.
Mahmud Khan who took the throne in 1436 started the Khalji dynasty of Malwa. They ruled over Mandu till 1531 when Bahadur Shah of Gujarat defeated them. Between 1535 to 1542, the throne of Mandu exchanged hands several times till Sher Shah Suri conquered it in 1542 and appointed Shujat Khan as Governor of Mandu. Shujat Khan’s son Baz Bahadur declared Mandu as an independent Kingdom in 1555. In 1562 Akbar’s army defeated Baz Bahadur and Mandu came under Mughal rule. The Mughal Emperors Akbar & Jahangir visited Mandu several times. Even Noorjahan is believed to have been in love with Mandu. Jahangir was so enamoured with Mandu that once he & Noorjahan are said to have stayed on at a stretch for 7 months. It is said that Khurram after his Deccan conquest came to Mandu to report his victory to Jahangir who was camping there. Jahangir gave the title of Shahjahan to Khurram at Mandu.
In 1732, Marathas under Malhar Rao Holkar defeated the Mughal Governor of Mandu and brought Mandu under Maratha rule. By then Mandu had become an abandoned city.
Monuments of Mandu:
“The elevated plateau is a scene of the most enchanting variety ….. . On many of the prominent positions within the broken surface of this magic landscape …….. crowning the heights, are arcaded pavilions and pillared kiosks, turrets and cupolas …… “ – Percy Brown, British historian, art critic, scholar & archaeologist (1872-1955).
The palaces, monuments & tombs at Mandu are not as ornate or embellished as those belonging to Mughal school of architecture. Despite that, they stand out because of their elegance yet simplicity of design. It is a perfect example of magnificent Afghan architecture. They made ample use of water bodies & courtyards within & outside the monuments that kept them cool & airy even during the warm summer months. A majority of the monuments that we see in Mandu today were built in a period spread over 125 years between 1401 to 1526. Mandu rulers disdained at efforts to produce luxurious ornamentation on buildings. These monuments are unlike other Islamic structures seen elsewhere in the country.
The monuments can be divided into several clusters located at different sites in the fortress town.
The first cluster near the Bazar & taxi stands are Jami Masjid, Hoshang Shah’s tomb and Ashrafi Mahal. They are among the first monuments to be built in Mandu.
We (6 of us in two cars) had left Indore at 8 am after a light breakfast and we made it to Mandu in decent time. We hired a guide (unfortunately he turned out to be a moron!) and began our sightseeing tour of Mandu at 10 am.
For the next 8 hours (with an hour’s break for amazing lunch at a
roadside dhaba) we roamed around and explored the monuments of Mandu. We
were captivated & amazed by their remarkable architecture. One
should allow the imagination to run wild to get the eerie yet delightful
feeling of being transported back in time. In this city of gaiety, joy,
luxury & pleasure, every stone resonates. The sound of trumpeting
of the elephants, neighing of the horses, the footsteps of soldiers,
laughter of the women in the harem, the musical sound of the trinklets
they wore, music, dance & festivities still reverberate. One could
imagine & hear the loud, clear voice of the chief courtier
announcing:
” Ba-Adab ba-mulahija hoshiyar, badshah salamat tashrif la rahe hain”.
Jami Masjid: Our first calling was at Jami Masjid which by far is the most majestic building in Mandu. It is considered as the largest and finest example of Afghan architecture in India. It was built with red sandstone, and embellished with turquoise-blue & yellow tiles. Few of these tiles can still be seen at the entrance pavilion. Historians are of the opinion that it was modelled on the great mosque in Damascus. The major part was constructed during Hoshang Shah’s life time. Later Mahmud Khan Khalji completed the Masjid and also the remaining part of Hoshang Shah’s tomb.
Archaeological Survey of India has published a book on Mandu written by D R Patil. He says that for the best appreciation of the magnificence of Jami Masjid, one must view it from Ashrafi Mahal (located in front of it). One is at once struck by the hugeness of its proportions and the stern simplicity of its construction.
Ashrafi Mahal: It’s construction is ascribed to Mahmud Khan Khalji. One portion is believed to have been used as a Madrasa with cells around it for the students. It is now in ruins but what remains indicate that it was once a beautifully refined complex. There were 4 towers at the corners. One of them is believed to be a victory tower. Only ruins are visible now. Even Mahmud Khan’s tomb believed to have been built here has not survived. Scholars believe that if the entire complex had survived then it would have been one of the most resplendent of Muslim architectural creations.
The name Ashrafi Mahal has an interesting story attached to it. This name was given much later. The steps leading to the Mahal are quite steep. Mahmud Khan Khalji’s son & successor Ghiyasuddin Khalji was concerned that his queens were getting obese due to lack of exercise. So he offered the incentive of one Asharafi (gold coin) for each step the queens climbed !!
Hoshang Shah’s tomb: This tomb is located in a well laid out garden behind Jami Mosque. It is believed to be India’s first muslim monument built in marble. It has a central dome surrounded by four smaller ones. Natural light filters through the marble jali screens and lits the inside of the tomb. Many believe that this structure inspired Shahjahan to build the Taj Mahal in marble. One of the architects of this tomb was later involved in the construction of the Taj.
Rewa Kund group of monuments
This comprises of Baz Bahadur’s Palace and Roopmati Pavilion said to have been built by Baz Bahadur. Many historians disagree about Roopmati Pavilion and are of the opinion that it pre-existed as army observation post and Baz Bahadur only made additions & embellishments to accommodate his lady-love.
The love story of Baz Bahadur and Roopmati has been immortalized in folk tales and folk songs and even the guides narrate it with fervour. It is an interesting & beautiful amalgamation of history & fiction. According to one of the several tales, Roopmati was of Rajput origin and was a beautiful melodious singer. Once Baz Bahadur was on a hunting expedition and he found a group of young shepherdess girls in the jungle while tending their sheep. Baz Bahadur heard one of them singing. Smitten by her beauty and melodious voice, he proposed to marry her and take her to Mandu. Roopmati agreed only on the condition that a separate palace would be built for her from where she should be able to view and pay obeisance to river Narmada before partaking of food. Their marriage was performed both as per Hindu & Muslim customs.
It is said that their love blossomed after marriage and Baz Bahadur started spending maximum time with Roopmati. Their love story had a sad & tragic end. Baz Bahadur neglected the administrative affairs of the kingdom. This resulted in Mandu becoming prone to attacks from several different rulers culminating in the defeat of Baz Bahadur by Adam Khan, Commander of Akbar. As Akbar’s army marched into the fort, to avoid being captured, Baz Bahadur managed to escape leaving Roopmati at her fate. Roopmati, keeping the Rajput tradition of her upbringing chose to poison herself rather than fall into enemy’s hands.
Roopmati Pavilion: This beautiful palatial building visible from quite a distance is located on the crest of a hill. From its high pavilions Roopmati could see the palace of Baz Bahadur on one side and Narmada flowing through the Nimar plains far below from the other pavilion. As we stood on the top of the palace, we were momentarily transported back in time. It is said that when Roopmati would sit in the pavilion facing Baz Bahadur’s palace and sing, her melodious song would be audible to him in his palace several hundred metres away!!
Baz Bahadur’s Palace: This palace is located in the valley below in sylvan surroundings. The main portion of the palace consists of spacious open courtyards with cisterns or kunds in the middle with different shapes & design. There are two beautiful baradaris on the top of the palace affording a delightful view of the surrounding countryside.
Rewa Kund: Located near Baz Bahadur’s palace, this is an ancient kund, widened and remodeled by Baz Bahadur. There is a water lift at one end meant to supply interrupted water to the palace. Another aqueduct was created to carry water through channels to Roopmati’s palace. These are some amazing examples of ingenious engineering of those times! The pool is today revered as a sacred spot.
Another cluster of monuments: They comprise of Hathi Khana, Gumbad (Dai-ka-Mahal), Dai ki Choti Bahen ka Mahal. Dai is the term used for wet nurse. The kings in those times used to give lot of love & respect to their wet nurses. The wet nurses used to live in separate houses and after their death were buried in them.
Neelkanth Shiva Temple/ Palace: This is an ancient Shiva temple overlooking the ravine which was converted into a palace during the Muslim rule. With ample use of water pools, the palace used to be cool even during the summer months. Mughal Emperor Akbar camped at Mandu during his military expeditions to Deccan. He is said to have preferred to stay in this palace during the harsh summer months as it was cool and also had a beautiful view. During Maratha rule, it was again converted into a temple.
The Royal Enclave: This comprises of several beautiful unique palaces and water bodies spread over a vast area. They include the Jahaz Mahal (Ship Palace), Hindola Mahal (Swinging Palace), Jal Mahal (Water Palace).
Taveli or Tabeli Mahal: The first building that one sees on the right after entering the Royal Enclave is Tabeli Mahal which was used as stable for the royal horses. Today it has an administrative block and an archaeological museum.
Jahaz Mahal: The most striking & unusual structure at Mandu is the two storeyed Jahaz Mahal which is located on a thin strip of land between the Munjal Talao & Kapur Talao. The palace had three halls with a bathing courtyard, spacious terraces, fountain courts. There were pavilions, kiosks & cupolas on the long terrace. The balconies extended over the lake. It is said that Jahaz Mahal was designed as a royal pleasure ship (Royal Caribbean Cruise Ships of our times!). This palace was meant to house the queens of Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din-Khalji. It is said that the number of women in his harem was in hundreds if not in thousands with many of them from as far off lands such as Turkey!
Hindola Mahal (Swinging Palace): It was most probably built in 1425 during the reign of Hoshang Shah. The massive walls of the palace had sloping angle giving the feel of swaying, thus the name Hindola Mahal. It had a imposing Durbar (Audience) Hall along with residential chambers . To the west of Hindola Mahal are three baolis (stepwells) -the Champa Baoli, Ujali (Bright) Baoli and Andheri (Dark) Baoli. Out of these Champa Baoli was the special one with an underground chamber, kept cool by flowing water and with arrangements for warm water if required!
Shahi Mahal & Jal Mahal: These days there is an increasing breed of architects who have started believing that nature has to play an important part in the architectural designs of our homes & work stations. The concept of ‘creation of total environments’ is gaining ground. During the medieval times, the palaces of Mandu epitomize this concept. The palaces are a symphony of pavilions, terraces and gardens carefully orchestrated with large placid pools of water with miniature tanks, kunds & baolis. Jal Mahal is an outstanding specimen of this concept. Incorporation of richly patterned kunds in open courtyards celebrated the aqueous nature of architectural ensemble. During the rainy season it is a magical feeling to experience this and we were the lucky ones to see and appreciate this!
Lohani Caves & Sunset Point: Lohani Caves are bereft of any sculptures. It is believed that they were used by Shaivate Yogis. A carved pillar stands alone in front of the caves. Scholars believe that a Shiva temple existed here which was destroyed. The retrieved sculptures and carvings from the temple are preserved in the archaeological museum. The caves overlook the hills & valley. During rainy season, a waterfall is created over them and one has to wade through water to get inside the cave. We avoided this adventure. Close by is the sunset point from which we watched a majestic sunset.
There was a small shop near Jami Masjid and I bought few old coins to add to my collection.
After a day well spent, we were on our way back to Indore for the night stay and looking forward to another exciting interesting day in the offing!
As it was a day trip, we had to rush through many of the sites and we did miss seeing some of them. I think it is better to stay overnight in Mandu to really enjoy the place in a relaxed manner. There are a number of stay options in Mandu including Mandu Retreat & Mandu Resort run by MP Tourism and Jahaj Mahal Hotel.
The winter months from November to February are the best time to visit Mandu but to enjoy the rains and the water filled lakes & talaos, the months of August & September are also ideal.
Reference: (1) Madhya Pradesh – The Heart of India (Good Earth Publication) and (2) 100 Wonders of India (The finest treasures of civilization and nature) by Roli Books.
All the pics have been clicked by me.
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