http://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/rani-ki-vav-patan-architectural-treasure-of-india/
Introduction:
We all know that Taj Mahal is a wonderful show piece of India that is known the world over as a monument built as a symbol of an Emperor’s eternal love for his favourite wife.
But not many of us know of a magnificent architectural marvel built in the 11th century, nearly 660 years before Tajmahal by a queen to commemorate her love for her husband, the King. I am referring to Rani ki Vav (Queen’s step-well) at Patan in Gujarat.
If you want to see a grand architecture and exquisite sculptures that would take your breath away then head to Rani ki Vav at Patan at a distance of 134 kms from Ahmedabad. You would see the most incredible structure many feet below the ground level built in the style of an inverted temple some 950 years ago. It is like a living museum where the sculptures are like legacies etched in stone !!
History of Patan
Patan was established by the Chavda ruler Vanaraja in 8th century. It was then known as ‘Anahilpataka’ or ‘Anhilwara’. During 10th-13th century, the city served as the capital of the Chaulukyas in Gujarat, who overthrew the Chavdas. They went by the surname Solanki. Historian Tertius Chandler estimates that Anhilwara was the tenth-largest city in the world in the year 1000, with a population of approximately 100,000. Muhammed Ghazni’s general and later Sultan of Delhi, Qutb-ud-din Aybak sacked the city between 1200 and 1210, and it was destroyed by Allauddin Khilji in 1298. The modern town of Patan sprung up much later. Today it is a trading centre, an upcoming Industrial centre and a medical hub with medical college and hospitals. It attracts domestic and international tourists for some architectural treasures like Rani ki Vav (Queen’s stepwell), ancient Jain temples and the expensive handmade Patola Sarees.
Step-wells
Step wells have been an integral part of Indian culture for more than 2000 years, specially in the arid regions of the country. That’s the reason they are found in abundance in various sizes and styles in the States of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Over the centuries from being a functional utility with simplistic designs they developed into a piece of architectural beauty & marvel while still retaining the functional utility. As lot of sanctity was attached to water, the step wells also acquired the religious tag with the sculptures depicting the various gods & goddesses being carved on the walls around the various levels of a step well.
I have seen step wells in Jaipur, Bundi, New Delhi, Hampi among many others but the step well at Patan beats them up hollow in size, grandeur, magnificence, architectural quality and the sheer beauty of the sculptures. Undoubtedly Rani ki Vav (Queen’s Stepwell) at Patan justifies its name and is the most beautiful queen among all the step wells of India.
History of Rani ki Vav
Rani Ki Vav is the oldest and the grandest stepwell in the state of
Gujarat. Though no historical records or inscriptions have been found,
historians are of the view that It was built by queen Udayamati. She was
the wife of King Bhimdev I, son of Mularaja, the founder of the Solanki
dynasty of Anhilwara (Patan). King Bhimdev I ruled till 1063 CE. After
his death his son Karna became the king. The work of the Step-well that
was started in 1063 CE was completed 20 years later. A collection of
semi-historical Sanskrit narratives compiled by a Jain Muni in the 14th
century mentions that the Queen built this step-well as a memorial for
her beloved husband.
It is one of the finest examples of exquisite
craftsmanship and unmatched architectural splendour & grandeur. It
was built on the banks of river Saraswati. Sometime in the 13th century
due to heavy floods, the step-well was submerged under layers of silt.
The river changed course and gradually disappeared due to geotectonic
changes. Over years people forgot about the step-well and it remained
hidden and unknown for centuries. In 1890 two Britishers reported about
the sighting a huge pit at Patan but it was not until 1940 that the
excavation work was carried out and the step-well became visible.
Archaeological Survey of India took it over in 1958 but the restoration
work began only in 1980 and took 7 years of hard labour to bring it back
to its old glory. Fortunately as it had vanished from sight for
centuries it was not exposed to elements and the people and remained in
excellent state of preservation except for some minor damage to some of
the sculptures.
Our visit to Rani ki Vav
In January 2018 after visiting Modhera Sun temple (as narrated in my
previous travelogue) we drove down to Patan (35 kms away) after a short
break at a restaurant on the highway for lunch. We were at the entry
gate of Rani ki Vav at 2 pm. As you enter the compound after purchasing
the entry ticket (INR 25 for Indians and INR 300 for foreigners), a lush
green manicured lawn and a beautifully landscaped garden welcomes you.
No monuments are visible and after walking some 250 metres you reach an
open space in the middle of the garden with edges built like a low
compound wall and as you walk up to the edge from the eastern side and
look down, the sight that unfolds before you makes you leave a gasp in
amazement!!
The seven storey step-well below the ground level is
built in Maru-Gurjara style of architecture and measures 64 metres in
length, 20 metres in width and 27 metres in depth. The steps lead you
down from the ground level to the lower levels through several
pavillions. Our guide stopped us at the fourth level and informed us
that the lower levels had developed some cracks during the earthquake
that hit Gujarat in 2001. It was closed to general public as restoration
work was in progress. This was a bit disappointing as I understand that
at the lowest level just above the well there is a life size sculpture
of Vishnu reclining on the thousand hooded serpent Sesh Nag.
According to Kirit Mankodi, Professor of Archaeology at the University of Mumbai and author of the book ‘The Queen’s Stepwell at Patan’ – “Rani ki Vav”
is truly awesome in terms of size, profusion of sculptures and quality
of workmanship” He also states that “the number of stepped terraces
(seven), spacious pavilions (four), carved panels (several hundred),
principal sculptures (500) and minor ones (1,000) sets Rani ki Vav apart
as the most ambitiously conceived stepwell of its time.”
UNESCO included it in the list of World Heritage Sites in 2014 and mentioned in the citation that Rani ki Vav is
a masterpiece of technological excellence in groundwater management in
the 11th century and exhibits mastery of complex techniques and a great
display of details and proportion – it illustrates height of art and
techniques through sculptures of spell binding artistic quality.
As I came face to face with Hindu deities, gods, goddesses, apsaras – the celestial dancers, beautiful maidens – nagkanyas, vishkanyas, yoginis, nymphs displaying their coy smiles & bewitching expressions – I had the feeling of going in to a trance. I had never seen or experienced anything like this before and felt that any moment those enchantresses would step out of the stones and come to life to seduce !!!
While other members of our group sat down on the steps after completing a quick round of the pavilions, I spent another hour keenly watching the sculptures. This place is a photographer’s delight and I couldn’t stop myself from capturing the scores of sculptures from different angles in my camera. Special mention needs to be made of the sculptures of Vishnu’s dashavtars specially the sculptures of Vaman, Varaha, Ram, Balram, Parshuram, Buddha & Kalki. Among others there are intricate sculptures of Mahisasurmardini, Brahma, Vishnu, Shiv, Ganesh, Surya, Indra, Kuber, Bhairav, Lakulisha and Ashtdikpalas. There are sculptures depicting scenes from Ramayan & Mahabharat and some sculptures of mother & child depicting maternal love.
During the month of December or January, Rani ki Vav festival is held where one can enjoy the cultural programs along with exquisite local cuisine and street shopping.
I understand there are few beautiful Jain temples at Patan as they were patronized by one of the Solanki kings who had converted to Jainism. As we had to return to Ahmedabad, I couldn’t see them.
Patan is famous for its Patola Sarees – It is a double ikat woven sari, usually made from silk. Each Saree is painstakingly made and can take six months to one year due to the long process of dyeing each strand separately before weaving them together. It is very expensive and the price of an original hand made Patola Daree can range between Rs 100K to Rs 300K. Only a couple of families know the art of making it and the tradition has been kept a close guarded secret within father and sons and it is passed on from one generation to the next. It is believed that silk weavers from the Salvi community of Maharashtra went to Gujarat in the 12th century and settled down there. It is these few families who have continued the art of weaving Patola Sarees. No well-to- do Gujarati family wedding is complete without a original Patola Saree for the bride. It is indeed amazing that the latticed pattern geometric & floral designs of the beautiful motifs carved in stone at Rani ki Vav have been used in the weaves of the Patola sarees. One can also find entire designs of parrots, flowers, elephant and dancing figures weaved in the Patola Saree.
Rani ki Vav on currency note : The lavender colour currency note of Rs 100/- issued in 2018 features Rani ki Vav on the rear side.
We were impressed by the upkeep of the monument and the surroundings. ASI is definitely doing a great job. We left Patan around 4.30 pm carrying back wonderful memories of a marvelous place and were back in Ahmedabad by 7.30 pm. We stopped on the way for tea. The roads in Gujarat are excellent and driving is a pleasure.
Patan is easily accessible from Ahmedabad, Vadodara & Surat. It is 25 kms from the district town of Mehsana which has many stay options.
If you have liked my travelogue please comment and give your feedback. Please share the link with your friends too.
You can reach me at rameshkabra1956@gmail.com for clarifications if any or any feedback.
I am a life member of INTACH Nasik Chapter.
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