http://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/a-rewarding-day-of-exploration-around-pune/
Introduction
Pune is the historical, cultural capital of Maharashtra. There are beautiful pieces of our history, culture & architecture strewn all around Pune. On one of my visits to the city, I devoted one day to visit some places in the vicinity of Pune. It turned into a wonderful day of exploration. In a single day I visited 11 ancient temples, forts & wadas within 70 kms from Pune. It includes ancient Shiva temples at Saswad, Khandoba temple at Jejuri, Moreshwar Ganpati temple at Morgaon, Bhuleshwar temple near Yawat. I visited Malhargadh (Sonari fort) & Jadhavgadh (converted into a heritage resort) near Saswad. The beautiful memories of the trip still linger on.
“Once you have travelled, the voyage never ends. The mind can never break off from the journey”.
Purandare wada at Saswad
Saswad is a small town, 30 kms from Pune and has a lot of history & legends associated with it. Sardar Ambaji Purandare was the dewaan/ governor of Saswad during the Peshwa era. Purendare wada is the house in which Sardar Purandare and his extended family and a retinue of servants lived. Purandare was a prominent Maharashtrian family of Nobles, Sardars, Patils & Jagirdars during the hey days of Maratha empire. The wada in Saswad is 310 years old and looks like a fortress. It also has a beautiful Ganesh temple within its premises. When I visited, I found the wada in a dilapidated state. It was not open for public viewing. These pics give a glimpse of the grandeur that this wada would have commanded in its hey days.
Shiva temples at Saswad
I visited two beautiful, ancient Shiva temples in Saswad.
Sangmeshwar temple
The first one was the Sangmeshwar temple located at the confluence of Karha & Chamli rivers. Peshwa Bajirao’s family built the temple around 1720. It is at the edge of the town and looks beautiful during monsoon from a distance when both the rivers have good quantity of water. The temple’s shikhara has hundreds of small sculptures of deities carved in consecutive layers. Due to weathering over the centuries they are not very clear. There are two Nandis- one outside the temple and one inside facing the mandap.
Changa Vateshwar temple
The second Shiva temple was the Changa Vateshwar temple on Karha river. The temple boundary wall gives the feel of a fortress. This temple has beautiful sculptures and a large nandi. There are smaller shrines which are dedicated to other gods including Ganesha.
I was the only person at both the temples. Sangmeshwar temple didn’t even have a priest. It is sad that these temples are unknown to the outside world and hardly any tourists visit them. People from nearby villages throng the temples during Shivaratri & the month of Shravan.
Kal Bhairav temple at Saswad
There is a fortress like temple just behind Purandarewada at Saswad. This is the temple of Kal Bhairav. There are two deep stambhs outside the main temple in the large open courtyard. In the girbagraha the deities are Kal Bhairav, Ganesh & Hanuman.
Malhargarh (Sonori Fort)
Maratha chieftains Bhivrao Yashvant and Krishnaji Madhavrao Panse built Malhargadh around 1775 CE. It is the last fort built during the Maratha rule. The fort got its name from god Malhari. The main purpose of building the fort was to keep a watch on Dive ghat.
On Pune Saswad road, after climbing Dive ghat, about 5 kms before Saswad, take a left turn. Then go on a narrow bad road for 5 kms to reach the base of the hill on which this fort is located. Many call it Sonori fort since it is close to the village called Sonori. The climb up to the fort is relatively easy. There are two temples in the fort.
My ‘ekant’ moment and encounter of a different kind:
Can you believe that I climbed up to the top of Malhargadh all alone and on reaching the top did not find a single soul. On the way up I experienced an exciting moment. As I took the zig zag way up the fort, at one blind turn I came face to face with a full grown four horned beautiful antelope (chausingha) standing in my path. Our eyes met for a moment and within a twinkling of the eye the antelope took two big leaps and vanished.
I spent about 20 mins exploring the place, savouring in the panoramic view, filling my lungs with fresh air. Then suddenly a thought came in my mind that sent shivers run down my spine. If I could encounter an antelope, there could be a even a leopard lurking behind the rocks or on the trees!!
I slowly climbed down to the car waiting at a distance from the foothill. I do not know whether it was foolhardy on my part to go on this exploration all alone. But all that I remember now is that the chance close encounter with that antelope would remain etched in my mind forever as a beautiful memory.
Jadhavgarh Fort Resort
After visiting Malhargadh, I thought of taking a break for lunch and drove down to Jadhavgadh.
Nearly 300 years ago, Maratha Chieftan Jadhav Rao had built Jadhavgadh . He had served Chhatrapati Shivaji’s grandson Chhatrapati Sahuji. Aurangzeb had captured and put Sahuji in prison for 21 years. After his release, Jadhav Rao had served him. The fort spread over 25 acres is now a luxurious hotel/ resort. Kamat group manages it. It is located about 25 kms from Pune on Saswad road. Just about 3 kms before Saswad there is a right turn. One has to keep driving for about 3 kms before Jadhavgarh comes into view.
My visit to Jadhavgarh
It was a royal welcome at the fort resort. They welcomed me by blowing the folk Maharashtrian trumpet called tutari. A lady dressed in traditional Maharashtrian nau-wari saree welcomed me & applied tilak on my forehead. I spent an hour at the Royal terrace adjacent to the Chajja restaurant. I sat alone sipping my glass of chilled beer along with deliciously made chilly cheese toast. One gets a beautiful view of the Sahaydri range. The fort resort spread over 22 acres also houses a 300 years old Ganesh temple. I also spent sometime in the museum of artifacts.
On my request they showed me their room. This is a perfect destination for a royal stay. The printed tariff for a day’s stay at the resort appeared on the higher side. Still, I believe one could strike a good deal if one books through one of the travel portals !
Virtual tour of Jadhavgarh fort/resort
Jejuri Khandoba temple
I spent a little over an hour and half at Jadhavgadh which was a relaxing break. Then I was again on the road. And this time to an interesting, intriguing temple some 22 kms away.
The cult of Khandoba
This is the famous temple of Khandoba at Jejuri. Khandoba was originally a folk god. But, over a period he has acquired a cult following in Maharashtra & some areas of Karnataka. He is the kuldevta (family or patron deity) of many communities in Maharashtra. Other than Khandoba, he is known by several other names such as Khanderaya, Mallari or Malhari. The name “Khandoba” comes from the words “khadga” (sword), the weapon used by Khandoba to kill the demons, and “ba” (father). “Khanderaya” means “king Khandoba”. The name “Mallari” or “Malhari” is split as “Malla” and “ari” (enemy), thus meaning “enemy of the demon Malla“. Malhari Mahatmya records Martanda Bhairava, pleased with the bravery of Malla, takes the name “Mallari” (the enemy of Malla). Malhari Mahatmya and folk songs narrate the legends of Khandoba. They revolve around his victory over the demons Mani & Malla.
Depiction of Khandoba
Some consider that he is another form of Shiva. Yet there are some who believe that he has combined attributes of Shiva, Bhairava, Kartikeya & Surya. The idols depict Khandoba as having four arms carrying a damru (drum), trishul (trident), bhandara-patra (bowl filled with turmeric powder) and khadga (sword). He is often shown dressed as a Maratha Sardar. Because he has many muslim followers too, sometimes he is also shown dressed as Muslim pathan. Often in images Khandoba is depicted as a warrior seated on a horseback with a sword in his hand and accompanied by one or both the wives. His dog is shown following the horse.
Jejuricha Khandoba (God of Jejuri)
The temple is located on a hill top in a fortress like structure and one has to climb approximately 300 steps to reach it. I enjoyed the climb and the vibrations had a mystic feel about it. What is remarkable about this temple is that Khandoba is a common man’s god and the devotees coming to the temple are simple rustic folks. I had a similar feeling when I had visited the Pandharpur temple. There is an older temple of Khandoba high up the hill. The ardent devotees make a trip to that temple too.
This temple was even patronised by some of the Muslim rulers and Muslim influence is even visible in its architecture. At Jejuri Khandoba, haldi (turmeric powder) is the main offering to the deity. It was fascinating to see everything covered in haldi. One gets a panoramic view of the surroundings from the temple top. Visiting this temple and taking a darshan & blessings of Khandoba was an unique, humbling experience for me.
An interesting piece of history / legend narrated by the locals
Locals narrate the story that Mughal army under the command of Aurangzeb had come to capture the fort. They fired a cannon at the fort. As a result of the hole created in the wall, swarms of bees got released. They attacked Aurangzeb’s army and the soldiers ran helter skelter to escape their fury. Some commanders advised Aurangzeb that Khandoba was a very powerful god and the bees were a warning signal from him. Aurangzeb abandoned the plan to attack the fort! I found no historical records for this.
Virtual tour of Khandoba temple at Jejuri
Holkar chatri
Holkar Chatri at Jejuri is a beautiful chatri/temple. It was built around 1776 CE. It is a beautiful memorial for Malhar Rao Holkar, a noble subedar of Maratha empire. Pleased with his accomplishments, Peshwas gave him the independent charge of Indore. Ahilya Bai was his daughter-in-law. Jejuri was his birth place.
Moreshwar temple :
From Jejuri it was a 18 kms drive to Morgaon. From Pune, Morgaon is at a distance of 70 kms. It is famous for Ganesh temple – Moreshwar or Mayureshwar. This temple is believed to have been built in 1730 AD. Morgaon is the foremost centre of worship of the Ganapatya sect, which considers Ganesha as the Supreme Being. A legend relates the temple to killing of the demon Sindhu by Ganesha. Many consider it to be the holiest temple of Ganesha.
Many believe that Asht Vinayak Yatra is complete only if it starts from this temple and ends here.
There is a Nandi in front of this temple which is a rarity for a Ganesh temple. According to legends when the sculpted Nandi was being transported to a Shiva temple, it was kept before the Ganesh temple for rest. Later when people wanted to lift it, Nandi refused to move from here !!
Bhuleshwar temple
A hidden treasure of Indian architecture & heritage lies just little over 50 kms from Pune. Despite that it was relatively unknown & less visited till few years back. I am referring to Bhuleshwar temple that is on a hill top about 7 kms from Yavat. Yavat lies on Pune Sholapur highway at a distance of 46 kms from Pune. The last 150 metres of the climb on the hill is very steep and tests the driving skill ! This mystic & marvellous temple amazes the visitor with its architecture and beautiful intricate carvings.
Mythology, legend & history associated with Bhuleshwar temple.
As per mythology, Shiva & Parvati had blessed this hill as Parvati had danced before Shiva on this hilltop. Following which they moved to Kailash and got married. According to another legend Panch Pandavas built this temple.
The historical records of the temple are a bit sketchy. Some scholars are of the opinion that Western Chalukya kings built the temple during the 9th century. While, another account says that Yadava dynasty built it in 1230 CE. But, another account says that the Yadava Kings carried out the ‘jeernodhar’ (restoration) of the older temple around 1230. Whichever account may be true, there is no doubt that it is among the oldest & most beautiful temples of Maharashtra.
Like several other temples, devotees have an interesting belief about this temple too. The Shivling has an opening on the top. Devotees offer pedas to the Shivling. If you are a true devotee, Shiva would accept one or more of the pedas. Marathi & Bollywood actor Milind Gunaji is also an avid traveller & writer. He has narrated this experience in his book ‘Mystical, Magical Maharashtra’.
About the temple
A fort was built around the temple in early 17th century. It’s name was Daulat Mangalgadh. Aurangzeb’s army had attacked and captured the fort. Nothing much remains of the fort now. But, the temple’s exterior is still in good shape. The lower half of temple is in black basalt stone. The stone was brought from far off places. The faces of many of the sculptors that adorn the walls of the temple have been disfigured by the invaders. Some believe that the original shikhar was damaged in the attack. Marathas rebuilt it in the 17th/18th century in typical Deccani style of architecture that incorporates a blend of Hindu & Muslim features. The temple has a unique sculpture that depicts the female form of Ganesh. She is known as Ganeshi, Vinayaki, Ganeshwari, Lambodari or Ganeshyani. Many carved sculptures on the walls depict the scenes from the epics Ramayana & Mahabharata.
I hope my pics would inspire the art lovers to explore this lesser known gem of Maharashtra.
Pictorial trip of Bhuleshwar temple
In conclusion:
What a satisfying, blissful & memorable solo trip it turned out be. There is so much to explore in our vast country. Every region is steeped in its own legends & history and there are mysteries to unravel at every turn. My feelings resonate with what English actor, traveller & TV presenter Michael Palin has said.
“Once the travel bug bites there is no known antidote, and I know that I shall be happily infected until the end of my life”
I conclude this travelogue with the above quote. Looking forward to meet you next week with another interesting travelogue.
Regular updates
I have clicked all the pics except as mentioned for two pics.
I hope you enjoyed going through this travelogue. Please comment below and share the link with your friends. To access my earlier blogs you can go to the site www.travelindiathroughmyeyes.com
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. I do not take any responsibility for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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