http://travelindiathroughmyeyes.com/indias-first-world-heritage-city-ahmedabad/
Introduction:
In 2017, the city of Ahmedabad acquired the distinction of being the first city in India to be declared as UNESCO World Heritage City. The colourful city is amazing & astounding in many respects- it’s a fine blend of old & contemporary, peaceful & chaotic at the same time, historical monuments that display the fine amalgamation of Indo-Islamic architecture, city with highest percentage of vegetarian population compared to other metros, city where drinking alcohol is officially banned, city that is at its colourful best & in a celebratory mood during the festivals of Navaratri, Diwali, Uttarayan (Sankranti), Janmashtami & Eid.
My Ahmedabad visit:
I had visited Ahmedabad as a child (only faint memories remain!) and then in early nineties for a day to attend the wedding of a niece and thereafter in 2014 for official work. My uncle (father’s first cousin) lives in Ahmedabad and being just 3 years elder to me is like a close friend. He had been inviting me to visit him for a long time. So in January 2018 after visiting Surat (family wedding) and Nadiad (religious function) I and my wife visited him at Ahmedabad. As I had to return to Mumbai for office work, I was in Ahmedabad for just two and half days, out of which we spent one day to visit the beautiful sites of Modhera & Patan. So even though I couldn’t get to see Ahmedabad to my heart’s content, I did enjoy every minute that I spent in this colourful, historical & vibrant city – known for its rich heritage & culture, historical monuments, hospitality and variety of delicious vegetarian food. I have tried here to share the delightful experiences through my pen & lens!!
A brief history of Ahmedabad (also known as Amdavad):
The area around Ahmedabad was inhabited from the 11th century and was known as Ashaval. The Solanki Chalukya ruler of Patan took control of Ashaval after defeating the Bhils. They named it Karnavati. Solanki rule lasted until the 13th century, when Gujarat came under the control of the Vaghela dynasty. Delhi Sultanate took control of Gujarat including Karnavati in the 14th century. However, by the earlier 15th century, the local Rajput Muslim governor Zafar Khan Muzaffar established his independence from the Delhi Sultanate and crowned himself Sultan of Gujarat as Muzaffar Shah I, thereby founding the Muzaffarid dynasty. His grandson, Sultan Ahmed Shah in 1411 A.D. liked the forested area on the banks of Sabarmati and established his new capital city near Karnavati and named it Ahmedabad. In 1487, Mahmud Begada, the grandson of Ahmed Shah, fortified the city with an outer wall 10 km in circumference and consisting of twelve gates. In 1535 Mughal Emperor Humayun briefly occupied Ahmedabad after capturing Champaner. Ahmedabad was reoccupied by the Muzaffarid dynasty. In 1573 Gujarat was conquered by the Mughal emperor Akbar. During the Mughal reign, Ahmedabad became one of the Empire’s thriving centres of trade, mainly in textiles, which were exported as far as Europe. Ahmedabad remained the provincial headquarters of the Mughals until 1758, when they surrendered the city to the Marathas. During the period of Maratha Empire governance, the city became the centre of a conflict between the Peshwas of Pune and the Gaekwads of Baroda. The British East India Company took over the city in 1818. It was incorporated into the Bombay Presidency during British rule. In 1864, a railway link was established between Ahmedabad and Mumbai which helped in increasing its importance as a trading centre. Over time, the city established itself as the home of a developing textile industry, which earned it the nickname “Manchester of the East”. In the early 20th Century, Mahatma Gandhi established two Ashrams in Ahmedabad that includes the well known Sabarmati Ashram. It became the focal point of his crusade for the Independence Movement. After dissolution of the Bombay Presidency in 1960, Ahmedabad became the capital of Gujarat. In the late 1970s, the capital shifted to the newly built, well-planned city of Gandhinagar which was then 23 Kms from Ahmedabad.
UNESCO World Heritage Citation: This is what the citation said about Ahmedabad when it was declared as the World Heritage City in 2017:
“The walled city of Ahmadabad, founded by Sultan Ahmad Shah in the 15th century, on the eastern bank of the Sabarmati river, presents a rich architectural heritage from the sultanate period, notably the Bhadra citadel, the walls and gates of the Fort city and numerous mosques and tombs as well as important Hindu and Jain temples of later periods. The urban fabric is made up of densely-packed traditional houses (pols) in gated traditional streets (puras) with characteristic features such as bird feeders, public wells and religious institutions. The city continued to flourish as the capital of the State of Gujarat for six centuries, up to the present”.
Places of interest visited by me and captured in my camera
Adalaj Vav (Stepwell):
Adalaj ni Vav also known as Rudabai Vav is a stepwell located in Adalaj village (it is no longer a village) on way to Gandhinagar from Ahmedabad. There is an interesting yet tragic legend associated with the step well (narrated later)
The Adalaj ni Vav is intricately carved and is five storeys deep. It’s history is established by an inscription in Sanskrit found on a marble slab in the well. Its construction was started by Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty of Dandai Desh in 1498. But he was killed in a war, whereafter the Muslim king Mahmud Begada of a neighbouring state who defeated him completed it in 1499 in Indo-Islamic architectural style. Constructed in sandstone, it is octagonal in plan at the top, built on intricately carved large number of pillars. Each floor is spacious enough to provide for people to congregate. Enough provisions for air and light vents were provided at various floors . From the first storey level, three staircases lead down to the water level of the well, which is considered a unique feature.
The motifs of flowers and graphics of Islamic architecture blend very well with the symbols of Hindu and Jain gods carved at various levels of the well.
Legend associated with the Vav: It is believed that in the 15th century, Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty reigned over this territory known at that time as Dandai Desh. His kingdom was a small one. It was subject to water shortage so to alleviate the misery of his people, the Rana began the construction of a large and deep stepwell in 1498.
Before this project could be completed, his kingdom was attacked by Mohammed Begda, the Muslim ruler of a neighboring kingdom. The Rana king was killed in battle and his territory was occupied by the Mohammed Begda. Rana Veer Singh’s widow, a beautiful lady known as Rani Ruda (or Rudabai), wanted to perform Sati. However, Begada prevented her from giving up her life and proposed marriage with her. She agreed to the marriage proposal on the condition that he would first complete the building of the stepwell. The Muslim king who was deeply enamoured of the queen’s beauty agreed to the proposal and built the well in record time. Once the well was completed, Begda reminded the queen of her promise to marry him. Instead, the queen who had achieved her objective of completing the stepwell started by her husband gave up her life by jumping into the well, ending the saga of building the well in tragedy.
Another legend is linked to the 6 tombs found near the Vav. Begda asked the masons if they could build another similar well and when they agreed, Begda sentenced them to death as he was so impressed by the Vav’s architectural excellence that he did not want a replica to be built.
During summer months the temperature inside the Vav is said to be couple of degrees lower than the outside temperature. In earlier times, this encouraged the women who came to fetch water to spend more time in the cool environs in worshipping the gods & goddesses carved in the Vav and in gossiping.
Sarkhej Roza
Sarkhej Roza is a mosque and tomb complex and comprises of elegant
architectural monuments. This Roza built between 1445 to 1451 is one of
the most revered Rozas of Gujarat where the Sufi Saint Shaikh Ahmed Ganj
Baksh lived. In his honour a mausoleum was begun in 1445 by Sultan
Muhammad Shah II and was completed in 1451 by his son Qutbuddin Ahmad
Shah II. The next Sultan Mahmud Begada was fond of the place and
expanded the complex greatly. He dug a large Sarkhej lake, surrounded it
with cut stone steps, built on its south-west corner a splendid palace,
and finally, opposite to the Ganj Baksh’s tomb, raised a mausoleum for
himself and his family, where he, his son Muzaffar Shah II, his great
grandson Mahmud Shah III and his queen Rajbai are buried. There is also a
beautiful mosque within the complex.
The complex was originally
spread over 72 acres, surrounded by elaborate gardens on all sides. Over
time, human settlements came around it, eating into the gardens and
reducing the area to 34 acres.
Swaminarayan temple
Shree Swaminarayan Mandir is the first Temple of the Swaminarayan Sampraday, a Hindu sect, located in Kalupur area of Ahmedabad. It was built in 1822. Swaminarayan Sect was later divided into two Gadis and this temple is the headquarters of the NarNarayan Dev Gadi. The land for the temple was donated by the British Government and the temple and surrounding buildings have intricate carvings in timber. The central gateway of the temple is artistic. There are several beautiful, colourful havelis in the complex that are used as guest houses and administrative office.
The Jami or Jama Masjid
The Jami Masjid or Jama Masjid (mosque) is the most imposing & impressive monument of Ahmedabad. It was built in 1424 during the reign of Ahmad Shah I. At the time of its construction it was believed to be the largest mosque in India. Built with yellow sandstone, the mosque complex is centered on a large rectangular courtyard 75 m long and 66 m wide. It is built in Indo-Saracenic style of architecture. Some of the central domes are carved like lotus flowers and some of the pillars are carved with the form of a bell hanging on a chain. The main prayer hall has over 260 columns supporting the roof, with its 15 domes, making a walk through the hall a beautiful maze of light and shadows. As I was in shorts, I had to take a lungi on rent and wrap it around my waist before I was allowed entry into the mosque premises!!
Rani no Hajiro
Rani no Hajiro also known as Mughalai Bibi’s Tomb or Tombs of Ahmed Shah’s Queens is a tomb complex near the Jama Mosque. The enclosure is high above the ground entered by a lofty gateway and the courtyard surrounded by a cloister. The walls of cloister are fitted with carved stone screens.
Sidi Saiyyed Mosque
The Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, popularly known as Sidi Saiyyid ni Jali is a small beautiful structure that was built in 1572-73. It was built by Sidi Saiyyid, a senior official in the army of the last Sultan of Gujarat Sultanate just a year before Ahmedabad came under Mughal empire. It is known for its intricately carved stone windows (jalis). Depicting a tree with intertwining branches, the carvings look like fine lace work, but are actually made from solid stone. It is famous among foreigners and has become a symbol of Ahmedabad city.
Heritage walk from Mandir to Masjid
The starting point of the two hours Heritage walk was the Swaminarayan temple that began at 8 am. A group of 15 including 6 to 7 foreigners was led by a guide through the narrow alleys & lanes of several Pols (gated community localities) in the old walled city. We saw several temples, heritage houses, havelis, bird feeders (chabutro in Gujarati) and imbibed the history of the city as narrated by our guide. The following pics would give you a bird’s eye view of the places we saw during the interesting heritage walk that culminated at the Jama Masjid. The walk was a photographer’s delight and at times reminded me of the heritage walk in the lanes of my own city Nasik!!
Dodhia Haveli is converted into a heritage hotel keeping its charm intact
Ahmedabad is a vibrant city at the intersection of the old and the new and blends the past with the present. Centuries-old monuments stand alongside high-rises and glitzy shopping malls. A city full of life and wondrous contradictions. It is a safe city for women as the crime rate in Ahmedabad is among the lowest in India and it also ranks among the less polluted cities. Compared to other cities Ahmedabad is an affordable city.
The Urban conglomerate of Ahmedabad has a population of 8 million. The people of Ahmedabad are friendly. Majority of Hindu population is vegetarian. At around 4% it has one of the highest percentage of Jains. The concept of Jain food in restaurants originated from Ahmedabad. Ahmedabadi people are fond of food and eating out at restaurants. Even street food is popular and at night the road side stalls & eateries come to life. There are delectable cuisines which are native to Gujarat – Khakhra, Fafda, Khaman, Dhokla, Khandvi, Thepla, Ganthiya, Patra, Dalvada, Undhiyu, Chola Fali, Dabeli, Jalebi etc. are some popular snacks. Gujjus prefer their daal and kadhi to be khatti meethi!!
My uncle and aunt took us to ‘Goardhan’ restaurant for the famous Gujarati thali and we thoroughly enjoyed it – losing count of the items served in the thali !! We also visited our niece and her family. She & her husiband took us for a drive to Sabarmati river front – beautiful promenade developed around the river for people to walk and relax. It was followed by a visit to the famous snacks joint ‘Swati’ for dinner where we savoured few authentic local dishes.
Ahmedabad is home to many reputed Institutes such as the Indian Institute of Management (IIM) , National Institute of Design (NID), the Physical Research Laboratory (PRL), Darpana Academy of Performing Arts etc. The city is the head quarters of many leading Corporates including Adani, Cadilla & Torrent.
This may be termed as part one of my travelogue on Ahmedabad as another visit to this beautiful city is definitely warranted bcoz due to paucity of time, I missed out on visiting many historical & heritage monuments. Ahmedabad has several interesting museums worth a visit such as Calico Textiles Museum, Auto World Vintage Cars Museum, Folk Arts Museum, Kites Museum, Gandhi Museum at Sabarmati Ashram, Vechaar Utensils Museum, Sardar Patel National Museum etc.
Ahmedabad is well connected by Air, Rail and Road with other cities of India. There is no dearth of good hotels in the city to suit every budget. The best time to visit is during winter when the weather is very pleasant, the summer months are harsh.
If you want to be part of the festivities then visit Ahmedabad during Navaratri (October) when the people are at their colourful best and the entire city reverberates with the beats of Garba & Danda. The alternative is on Makar Sankranti day (January) when entire Ahmedabad comes to a standstill and the people are on their rooftops flying kites of all shapes & sizes. You also get to enjoy the International Kite Festival.
For street shopping to buy the colourful costumes & mojdis at reasonable price, the best place is Law Garden market.
Please put your comments in the Comments Section below if you have found my travelogue to be interesting & informative. A special request to you, please share the link of the travelogue with your friends
Next week we move on to another interesting State where we would linger for several weeks !!
I am a Life Member of Nasik Chapter of INTACH.
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