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Ancient Shiva temples of Maharashtra
My quest to explore the lesser known ancient temples of India, took me to three ancient Shiva temples of Maharashtra. Each one of them is a hidden gem and has an unique history and legend attached to it. The Indian rulers in ancient times would patronize artists and sculptors. This led to building of exceptional masterpieces in the form of temples. This travelogue takes you to Aundha Nagnath near Parbhani, Ambernath near Kalyan and Gondeshwar near Nasik. These majestic temples date back to between 11th to 13th century. They are treasure troves of rich carvings & beautiful sculptures. My attempt is to explore the religious shrines in the historical & cultural context. They reveal many lively & fascinating stories. Some are based on historical facts. Though, many have links to mythology & local legends.
The palaces built in the ancient times by the great kings & dynasties have not survived today. Even though many of these temples still stand tall. They are masterpieces of ancient art & architecture. They are reminder of the glorious times of these kings & dynasties. Many of them have left an indelible imprint on the political & cultural history of India. Some of them even after 900 to 1000 years continue to be live temples with visits from devotees & pilgrims along with tourists.
Aundha Nagnath Shiva temple
Considered to be one of the Jyotirlingas, Aundha Nagnath (Nageshwar) temple is at the village Aundha in Hingoli district. It is at a distance of 52 kms from Parbhani and 65 kms from Nanded. We had travelled to Parbhani from Mumbai by an overnight train. Thereafter we went to Aundha Nagnath by cab.
History of the temple
Historical records of the temple are very sketchy and the absence of any inscription makes it difficult to pinpoint the exact year of its construction. Based on the style & architecture, scholars conjure that it was built in late 12th or early 13th century. This region at that time was under the rule of Seuna Yadavs of Devagiri. So it is safe to assume that they had patronized this temple. The invaders had demolished the shikhara. it was restored in the 18th century during the reign of Ahilyabai Holkar. It’s simple & plain architecture stands out in contrast to the elaborate carvings on the lower half of the temple.
Mythology :Like several other temples, mythology attributes this temple to the period of Pandavas’ exile in the epic Mahabharata.
Legends associated with the temple
This temple had a lot of following among Nath Sampradaya (sect). This is reflected in the presence of many sculptures of ascetics, siddhas & yogis on the outer walls along with the images of gods.
Saint Poet Namdev (1270 to 1350 CE) met his guru, Visoba Khechara, at Aundha Nagnath Temple. Sant Gyaneshwar and his sister Muktai advised Namdev to travel to Aundha Nagnath in search of a proper guru. In the temple premises, Namdev found Visoba resting with his feet on the Shivling. Namdev was aghast. He admonished Visoba for insulting Shiva. Visoba smiled and asked Namdev to show him a place where Shiva was not present. Wherever Namdev placed Visoba’s feet, a linga sprang up. Thus, through his yogic powers, Visoba filled the whole place with Shiva-lingas and taught Namdev the omnipresence of God.
Another interesting legend
There is another famous story about Namdev’s connection with Aundha Nagnath temple. Once he was chanting bhajans in front of the temple with his guru Visoba Khechara and a few other Varkaris. The temple priests came out and insulted them. They asked them to stop singing in front of the temple as it was disturbing their routine pooja. Sant Namdev was unperturbed. He quietly went to the back side of the temple and started singing there. Shiva knew that Namdev was his genuine devotee. So he revolved the temple in order to see his devotee and listen to his bhajans, . The priests realized their folly and sought forgiveness of the Sants. The temple to this date stands in the inverted direction facing west. Because of this miracle, Nandi in this temple finds himself on the back side of the temple.
These may be only legends but in those days it highlighted the fact that God is for everyone. It is not the exclusive preserve of the higher classes & castes. Nath Sampradaya advocated compassion for society at large and people should work towards good for all instead of just personal goals.
Namdev’s teachings also had influence on Guru Nanak and during one of his travels he visited Aundha Nagnath temple. He also visited Narsi Bamani, the birthplace of Namdev. Namdev is also revered in Sikhism as Bhagat Namdeo.
Details of Aundha Nagnath temple
In this temple, the Jyotirlinga is hidden in an underground chamber and it is accessible only through a small opening in the floor. At a time only one person can go through it. Even after reaching inside the chamber, one has to crouch to have darshan. I and my wife along with another couple performed the abhishek.
Another unique feature of this temple is the presence of three large figures on the outer wall on three sides of the temple. They have the images of a person with folded hands. From the face they look like those of Shiva but the two armed figures in devotional pose appear as if they are human beings. They also look out of place when compared to the other figures on the walls. The other notable sculptures are those of 20-armed Vishnu, SadaShiva, 20-armed Bhairava and Kartikeya.
Pictorial tour of Aundha Nagnath temple:
Ambarnath Shivalaya
My zest for exploring ancient temples took me to a gem of a Shiva temple located close to Mumbai (50 kms). It is the relatively unknown Ambarnath / Ambernath / Ambreshwar temple. Ambernath is at a distance of 8 kms from Kalyan and 6 kms from Ulhasnagar. Local trains on the Central Line going from CST to Karjat and Khopoli touch Ambernath. It is beyond Kalyan & Ulhasnagar. The temple is at a distance of 2 kms from Ambernath station. Auto Rickshaws ply regularly. It is locally famous as Puratan Shivalaya. I had visited it for the first time in December 2014 and again in 2019.
History of the temple
As per inscription in the temple, Chittaraja, the ruler of North Konkan Shilahara dynasty built it. He had started the construction of the temple sometime during his reign (1022 – 1035 CE) but it could be completed only in 1060 CE during the reign of Mummuniraja. This is believed to be among the oldest temples in this part of the country. It is also the first important temple in the Bhumija style. Mythology attributes this temple also to the Pandavas.
Brief details about the temple
Ambernath temple is located on the banks of Waldhuni (also called Vadavan) river. It is merely a dirty nullah now. In ancient times it must have been a very pretty site in the woods. The temple resembles the Neelakanteshwar temple at Udaypur in Madhya Pradesh and Gondeshwar temple at Sinnar near Nasik. Dr. Kumud Kanitkar is an Indologist who has published a Research Paper for Asiatic Society and also written a book on ‘Ambernath Shivalaya’. She says “the temple has many features that make it special and different. It is located at the crossroads – both geographically and culturally – presenting an aesthetic blend of many styles. It has a Chalukyan influence as well as features from Gujarat’s Solanki style of architecture”.
The main shikhara (spire) of the temple is not there. It had fallen long back probably due to a natural calamity like earthquake or lightning. It is also possible that the temple came into disuse after that, as it remained hidden in the forest for many centuries. Rev. John Wilson (a Scottish Christian missionary, educator & orientalist in Bombay Presidency presented an archaeological report in 1850. This was accompanied with photographs taken by Captain Charles Scott. After formation of ASI in 1861 interest was taken in the temple and proper upkeep & records were maintained.
Architecture of the temple:
The temple is bereft of the main tower. A cluster of miniature towers surround it while the mandapa has a pyramidal roof. The temple faces west and consists of a sanctuary and a mandapa or hall with three porches, both built on a stepped plan. Sculpture panels of beautiful maidens adorn the walls and three principal niches in the centre of each wall have figures of the gods. To reach the garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum), the devotee has to go down few steps from the main mandapa. This has led some scholars to believe that the Shivling is a swayambhu (naturally formed). As the central spire of the temple is not there, the garbhagriha is open to the skies.
A majority of the sculptures around the temple depict the Shaiva faith though there are sculptors of other Gods like Brahma, Vishnu, Bhadrakali, Ganesha, Krishna, Bhairava, Parvati, Hari-Hara etc. There are beautiful sculptors of dancing apsaras along with hermits & ascetics. The sculpture of Gajantaka is a masterpiece. It is a beautiful pose of Shiva holding the head of the demon Gajasura. Another notable sculpture is of 12-armed Mahakali. There are intricate carvings on the lower panels too. Inside the mandapa also, the columns have exquisite carvings.
Current state of the temple:
Many of the sculptures have weathered over time – either due to vandalism, natural elements or improper use of chemicals to clean them.
The temple is a live temple with abhishek & regular pujas. It gets a lot of devotees & pilgrims from nearby areas and on Shivaratri and Mondays of Shravan month, the crowd is exceptionally large. Other than archaeologists, students of Indology and lovers of ancient temples & architecture, the temple doesn’t get many tourists. It is heartening to note that the State Government has realized the importance of this ancient heritage temple. They have recently sanctioned special funds for its proper upkeep and for improving the infrastructure & facilities for the visitors.
Pictorial tour of Ambarnath temple
(Credit : https://kevinstandagephotography.wordpress.com/2021/01/10/ambarnath-temple-the-earliest-dated-bhumija-temple-in-maharashtra/)
Gondeshwar Mahadev temple, Sinnar
An architectural marvel lies at Sinnar, a town just 35 kms from Nasik on Nasik-Pune road and also on way to the famous temple of Saibaba at Shirdi. This is the 11th Century Gondeshwar Mahadev temple. Despite having close connections with Nasik for several years, I did not know about it. I visited it for the first time in April 2015 and came back mesmerized by its grandeur & architectural splendour. Ever since then I have visited it a couple of times more with the last visit in December 2019. Lakhs of people visit Shirdi by road every year but not even 1% of them visit this masterpiece of Indian art. This baffles me. Majority of them are unaware of this temple and those who know are not interested in visiting it.
History of Gondeshwar temple
The Gondeshwar temple was built during the rule of the Seuna (Yadava) dynasty. There are no historical records that establish the exact year of the construction But the estimation is that it was built in either the late 11th or early 12th century. Modern historians identify Sinnar with Seunapura, a town established by the Seuna (Yadava) king Seuanchandra. According to local tradition, the Gavali (Yadava) chief Rav Singuni established Sinnar town. His son Rav Govinda built the great temple of Gondeshwara or Govindeshwara, at a cost of 2 lakh rupees. Some scholars believe that Sinnar was the original capital of the Seuna Yadavs. They moved to Devagiri in the late 12th century.
Brief description of Gondeshwar temple
The panchayan style temple is on a raised platform. It comprises of a principal shrine dedicated to Shiva and four subsidiary shrines. The four subsidiary shrines at four corners face the principal shrine and are similar in size. They belong to Vishnu, Surya, Parvati & Ganesh. There is a Nandi pavillion in front of the main shrine. It is among the largest & best preserved temples of North Deccan. Fortunately none of the sculptures are vandalized though corrosion effect is now visible on them. The arch-like motifs have some similarities with Paramara temples of Central India. While porch columns with their bracket figures and the richly carved panels remind of the Solanki architecture of Gujarat.
The temple faces east and it appears that in ancient times, there was a large water tank in front of the temple. The entire temple complex is located in a large premises and a fort like wall runs around it. The entry now is through the southern gate. But in earlier times it must have been from the east facing gate. As you enter from the east you come into a mandap at the entrance which has its roof open to the sky.
Temple at Sunrise or Sunset
The temple presents a pretty sight at sunrise or sunset. As the sun cast its rays, the entire temple complex gets bathed in a golden hues.
Pictorial tour of Gondeshwar temple
In conclusion
These three magnificent & majestic edifices are like beautiful poetry in stone. I am at a loss to understand why these jewels/ gems of architectural beauty remain in obscurity without getting the due recognition they truly deserve. They definitely deserve better recognition & conservation.
Though, ASI & the state archaeology departments with limited resources are trying to do their best. I feel that they definitely need higher allocation of funds for improving the quality of human & other resources. Organisations like INTACH have experts & their members are spread over the country. If governments use their services to play an advisory role to the archaeology departments it would be a great step.
Accessibility
Aundha Nagnath temple is easily accessible both from Parbhani & Nanded. As there are no proper places to stay at Aundha, one can choose to stay in either of these cities. When in Parbhani one can also plan a trip to another Jyotirlinga – Parli Vaijnath (67 kms). Another interesting temple is Yogeshwari Devi temple (shakti peeth) at Ambajogai (24 kms from Parli). We had visited both these temples.
Ambarnath temple is easily accessible from Mumbai, Thane or Kalyan by local train or car. One can also plan to visit the famous Titwala Ganapati temple at a distance of 13/14 kms. from Ambarnath.
Gondeshwar temple can be easily accessed from Nasik by road. When visiting Gondeshwar temple at Sinnar one can also visit the unique & interesting Gargoti Mineral Museum at Malegaon Industrial Estate before Sinnar.
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Disclaimer:
I have made sincere efforts to provide you the correct information about all the places that have been culled out from various sources. I do not take any responsibility for any errors that might have crept in the narration. There is no intention to hurt the faith or religious sentiments of any person or community.
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