03 April 2015
After waiting beside a toll booth killing mosquitos for couple of hours, replacement bus came and I moved further on my way. Next morning, when I opened my eyes, I saw a kingfisher flying parallel to my window and I realize this is going to be a trip to remember. If I would have been a highborn from Westeros, hands down, my house Sigel would have been a kingfisher. Just like a mockingbird to Littlefinger. Got fresh at Hospet bus stand and I hopped on a bus 🚌 (15 Rs) taking me to Hampi. Adrenaline, expectations and excitement are at maximum level.
As soon as you start closing by the town, ruins, pillars and temples abandoned by their gods start to appear.
Got down the bus, got the room and with some negotiations, got the
bicycle 150 Rs. for 2 days. First I wanted to go to stone chariot but
took the wrong turn and ended up near mustard Ganesh area. Went ahead
further for couple of kilometres in sun and reached queens’ bath.
This is the end point of Hampi. I started form there. As per name
suggest, queens 🛀 is a royal bathroom with hundreds of servants. It was
a time when people use to see reflection of their god in their king and
kings use to treat their people as their own children. No wonder people
use to worship them in such an extravagant manner. Huge place
surrounded by trees and lavishing lawns and strategically placed water
faucets which carry water from far away riverbed just with the help of
gravity.
There were clear signs of Muslim destruction all over the place. Unholy
things forbidden by their Allah went under hammers. Rest were saved and
converted to the Mughal architecture. Oh no! Did I just say Muslim
tyranny? I meant to say secular monument of religious unity.
Next, I went to an excavation site which seems to be a completely annihilated city. It exactly locked as Mohenjo-Daro. Just a barren land and few feet high foundation walls sprouting from ground. I wonder what exactly must have went wrong to a group of people to get so offended to do this to another group of people. Just because their worship practices don’t match with our worship practices, humans can get so mad. Its strange, primal, animalistic and unreasonable. As I turn my back to the ruins in vein, Hampi felt like a shattered reflection of intolerance among races, a tomb of compassionate humanity, a town built over screams of thousands of innocents. Or, maybe it’s just 45 degrees sun talking.
Went ahead to nearby communal bath house and by looking at the symmetry, my jaws dropped. Water use to flow their everyday irrespective of seasons, couple of miles from river sight without any mechanical devices just with the help of gravity. I wonder, were there dedicated timings for dedicated casts to take a bath? Or castism is just another divide and rule propaganda spread by Brits.
Take a right and have a ticket for next history lesson. It feels good in stomach when white monkeys have to pay more. When you cross the wall, you will see a big old black trunk tree spread across the lawn. Behind it, there lies the lotus palace or Zanana, a place for royal women. As name suggest, it has a shape of lotus. It must have been nice to be one of the royal women. Plenty of servants dying to catch your every word, everybody in the kingdom must love you, kneel before you and all you have to do is to dream of prince charming looking pretty. Unless your father gets invaded, then he has to push you under some smelly sultan as assurance of his loyalty to Sultanate. If he refuses, you will be one of the first in kingdom who will get killed and raped. If lucky, in that particular order.
In north India, whichever historical sight to visit, you find horse stables. Here, you come across elephant stables. Huge place to keep those beasts. Elephant infantries were one of the main reasons Alexander could not find a safe passage through southern India. Here, these creatures are rewarded with not only decorated roof on their head but also with air conditioning. Water is circulated through the walls to keep the place and elephant heads cool. Nothing is worse than an unhappy elephant in your army. One wrong move by Mahut and they turn their heads and start crushing their own soldiers like juggernaut.
Anyways, went further ahead towards Laxmi Narsimha. The road goes from banana plantation, keeping water canal at left. Twenty feet tall Narsimha is sitting there in Padmasan. Head of the lion, eye of the tiger practically bulging out with anger, teeth like daggers and four hands ready to chock the devil. This is one of the avatars of Vishnu. To save prince Pralhad from his demonic father, this demonic god emerged from a stone pillar shattering it into pieces. You may ask-where was this horrifying god when Sultans were destroying the Vijaynagar dynasty. God waited, just like Krishna counting hundred offences of Shishupaal. And then pillar named Sahyadri cracked after three hundred years and angry Narsimha named Shivaji got released to annihilate the Sultani daemons. (Analogy overdose? Not at all. As Narsimha tore Hiranyakashyapu, Shivaji literally tore Sultans. Just google “tiger claws and Afzal Khan”.)
Speaking of Krishna, I went ahead to meet him. Protected by three
storied strong wall, beauties carved in door frames greet you. Outer
wall is in bad shape hence protected by ugly metal rods from modern
world. Anyways, I step ahead and enter the temple. Carvings everywhere.
Walls are loaded with scenes from Krishnavatar. Scenes from Mahabharat,
from krishna’s golden days in Gokul and fight scenes in Mathura. Enough
said. Krishna temple has few temples and few other structures still
standing there. As sun was acting crazy, there was nobody inside the
temple area. I sat there for some time to catch a breath and listen to a
song or two. Now I have been to many brick made churches as well as in
marble build mosques where ever I travelled. I always feel sad whenever I
go into a church, weird in mosque and surrendered in gurudwara. But
black stone temples makes the surrounding air cool and I have always
found some kind of strange peace-full silence in these stony, dark
houses of gods. Whether it is a temple in Hampi or it may be a Buddha
monastery at Ellora. Does the architecture of shrines relate to the
comportment of the gods? God knows.
Went further towards Hampi bus stand. As I was too tired to pace the
cycle on that small hill, I prefer to walk with it. Reached mustard
ganesha. I have no freaking idea why it is called so. Twenty some feet
tall monolithic Ganpati statue. As I am from land of Lokmanya, I am used
to the statues triple to this size and way more skilfully crafted than
this. Stone boarder is mentionable though. No offence here.
Went ahead to Shiv temple. As Virupaksh festival is going on, there is a huge crowd of deities from villages. As these people never heard of UNESCO, these devotees are camping inside these temples. They have tied nylon strings on those hundreds of year’s old crafted polls. Saris are being used as drapes to create temporary shelters. Once where king use to bow his head in honour, kids are defecating there now a days. Kalay tasmain namah.
Trying not to step on the mess made by these hairless apes, I went to the temple besides Virupaksh. It has been constructed on monolithic hill. The stone was shining like water due to insane sun. Spend few minutes with some more dancing babes, angry gods and aam janata, I got out of that temple cluster and started walking towards the temple of the hour.
Entered Virupaksh. As for chariot festival, three storied wooden chariot is being constructed by locals. Tomorrow, this huge chariot will be pulled by devotees coming from all over the Southern India. Chariot is made of polished wood. At bottom, its held by strong men. Above these men, there is Ganpati in the middle. From Kalki to Matsyavatar and from Lakshmi to Saraswati, all called for Shotgun to be pulled by humans with ropes as thick as my biceps. Some eat their god’s flesh, some throw stones at a devil pillar and some pull this stunt off. Hey, no judgement here. Whatever gets you through the dark night man. (Water god drowns men, fire god burns them. Why the gods are such a vicious cunts? Where is the god of tits and wine? Says Tyrion Lannister). Outermost Gopura is the biggest stone structure in Hampi. Decorated with gods, demons, dancers, musicians, with animals and with people riding them. As roof being multi storied, you have to take your sweet time to enjoy it. First two levels along with base is made up of carved interlocked stones. Hanuman, Vishnu, brahma and Laxmi along with some other folks are waiting on the ground floor. Rest of eight stories are just windows and pillars. They might represent seven heavens and one floor for ultimate nirvana freedom from the cycle of birth and death. I am still sceptical about entering the temple. Gathering courage, I decide to step in. Paid two rupees for entrance, I went ahead. Board: 50 buks for camera-This board seems to be written at the same time the temple has been raised. These geniuses forget about the history of the rising megapixels in cell phones. As being the festival season, outer compound is filled with devotees. Shabby off-white wearing villagers and more shabby looking hippies. Only monkeys seem to be properly dressed for the occasion. Step further, on left, you will be greeted by an elephant. He has been awarded with fifteen by fifteen feet cage for his service to the lord. Try not to bother that poor fellow as it already seems to be full of petty, stranded by chains. As per the south Indian association of temple builder norms, this temple also has Nandi, flag pole, sacrifice stage, lamp pole and Tulasi Vrindavan. Main temple has literally thousands of pillars which cover almost all of the Hindu mythology. From Ram-Ravan’s fight to hanuman burning Lanka, from Shiv Parvati wedding to Narsimha tearing Hiranyakashyapu, all are present here. It will take weeks to go through all of these carvings. It comes without saying that main temple pillars are amazingly carved with mesmerizing symmetry. Now its time for evening Aarti. Tourists are tired due to walking in sun for a whole day. They are catching a break by resting their back against cold stone pillars. All of a sudden, loud Beguiles are started to wake them up. Aartis have been ignited to welcome the night. Elephant seizes the opportunity to stretch himself from these shackles as priest takes him to visit god. As devotees start to rush in temple, I take the opportunity to escape from it. As I reached room, asked hotel owner for hot water. Water heated by wood stove has a distinct burning aroma. I always have associated this smell with the simpler old times. After fifteen minutes, I was on my way to hotel mango tree. Its a hut, walls covers by Bed sheets with Indian gods. Friendly staff, good cooks, free Wi-Fi, laid back attitude and Hindustani sitting arrangement makes this place hot spot for relaxing tourists. Had falafels’ with hummus and went to room for much needed sleep. Adwait out.
04-04-2015
Woke up late, again Mango tree hotel. Had cheese omlet and good mango
lassi. It actually is a hippie hotel. 90s music, white people sitting on
ground reading about India, updating on facebook with free wifi and
writing down the lassi recipes. Nice, smiling, co operative tourists
helping each other out.
With full stomach, started walking towards Vitthal temple. Zigzag road
travels parallel to the tungabhadra river takes you to the most glorious
temple of Vijaynagar empire.
I went ahead and paid for a ticket. I hired a guide this time so to
know little bit more about the structure. Huge entrance had three
storied architecture. First floor is made up of huge rocks. These rocks
are gather together not by cement or mortar but by interlocking system
like Legos. Second floor will be of bricks with mortar to support
extremes of sculpting. And third floor will be made up of gold.
Obviously, it’s a natural Birth right of Muslim dynasties to destroy the
second floor and to steal the third one. That it the reason why ground
floor is intact and others are in ruins. Go further ahead and you will
find the famous stone chariot. During his Orissa and Mahabalipuram
expeditions, King Krishnadevray took the inspiration and built this
chariot where you can actually rotate its wheels. Inspired by Muslim
tyrants, citizens of free India broke those wheels with disk break. From
left to right, it goes like A stone chariot, flag pole, home kund, lamp
post and then Tulsi Vrindavan.
Put the stone Chariot behind, you will face Main Vitthal temple.
Somewhere around fifteenth century, five southern Muslim dynasties
gathered together in the name of Islam, defeated Vijaynagar kingdom and
destroyed each and every beautiful thing here in Hampi. Then one of
those great Sultans cut down dead Krishnadevray’s head. Drilled his
skull, removed his brains and put that cover on a drainage pipe in
Bijapur. What a glorious Sultan. I don’t know where is this treatment
written in Quraan. Anyways, Priests secretly moved the Vitthal statue to
Pandharpur.( Which was also later destroyed by Sardaar Afzalkhan. Now
as I think back, that statue itself was cursed. Wherevers it went, it
left the trail of blood and corpses. After Afzalkhan and his army got
slaughtered in the epic battle of Pratapgad, the circle got completed).
Anyways, lets move to the most important aspect of this temple: The
musical pillars in dance mantapa. British cut down couple of pillars to
get to know the secret behind different nodes, but found nothing but the
hollow tubes of different thickness and of different lengths. Resonance
produced by tapping sandalwood on these pillars generate tunes played
within classical nodes while Krishnadevraya’s second wife used to dance
on those nodes.
On the left of the temple is marriage hall where every year Vitthal use
to wed Rukmini. Nine avatars of Vishnu are carved on pillars holding the
ornate ceiling up. This carved ceiling was raised by the same method
Egyptians build pyramids. To avoid colour dripping on their eyes,
artists painted these ceilings by holding a pot of water bellow and
looking at the reflection.
Before you enter the temple you must have seen the never ending rows of
bazaar construction. It is exactly 940 meters long and 4 meters wide.
Horse trade was the game of that location. Traders all the way from
Persia, Iran and Mongolia use to come here to trade horses with diamonds
and spices. Be sure to check out the bottom of dance hall as you will
find evidence in form of carvings of these international businessmen
trading their horses while Indians testing their purchase.
Go further towards the main temple. You will find a left enclosed
doorway which rounds the temple. Roof of this round way is carved in
such a manner that sun literally drips in front of you. In such an
elegant and soothing way that it will show you the path and you can
still admire the craftsmanship on the inside walls without blinding
yourself.
Complete a round, admire the carvings, accept the shameless requests
of photographing strangers and get out of there. Keeping the temple on
right, walk straight and take a left, you shall reach The King’s
Balance. King here use to weigh himself and donate that weight of gold
and rubies to poor. Avoid comparing these kings with today’s rulers as
it will depress you. Just don’t go there.
Anyways, take shortcut this time to avoid crowd. It goes through some
more ruins of once what it was used to be a capital of a legendary
empire. Climb that tower at left. You will have an aerial view of Hampi,
hills and river Tungabhadra. Take a shelter under the topmost tower.
There aint nobody here. No gutkha spitting wrapper throwing Indians, and
no pot reeking yellow toothed hippies. Just you and LOTR soundtrack
with a view of Hampi ruins hidden in coconut trees and banana
plantations. Lose yourself.
I started walking from a heavy dinner at Mango tree, realised that
the streets on the left side of the Virupaksh Temple were completely
deserted. It was a full moon; I started walking towards river shore.
There are few ruins adjacent to the road, where you can climb on
rooftops. As doing so, I got on one ruin and sat down. At first, its pin
drop silence. Kind of scary. City people are not used to such silence
and space. The whole riverbed was shining. Shadows were making funny
patterns on the rocks. Water currents reflecting moonlight. Mind like a
blank slate…
Adwait out.
05-04-2015
Woke up late, took a bath, checked out of room and after breakfast, I
was on the ferry to cross that 10-15 feet wide Tungabhadra river. Today,
I have decided to be a tourist and not a traveller. I hired a moped for
a day at one fifty bucks. I had Italian breakfast at Mowgli restaurant.
Good hotel, little bit expensive to stay but with great view. Went
ahead to see birthplace of my childhood hero: Hanuman, towards Anjaneya
hill. Among seven immortals, I think, hanuman is my favourite one. Lord
of power, inspires you to exercise. To get healthy, to learn something
new, to respect your elders, to bow in front of knowledge, to be
mischievous and curious as a child irrespective of your age. Its a
hundred feet climb. While climbing, monkeys will play around you. I can
clearly hear them laughing at me-trying to catch a breath while climbing
those stairs, gasping for air and looking for shadow. Yes you jerks, I
am out of shape, I get it.
White walled temple greets you. Just like any other suburban temple, neither walls, nor original Hanuman statue were visible as both ware painted over and over with colour. Devotees were over burdening mother of god with their love and expectations and throwing remaining food right there in front of her. Within couple of seconds, I was walking away from that smog of expectations. While occasionally jumping over rocks, I climbed over a plateau with a single tree with white flowers. Took a breath under its shade, while looking at ruins on the other side of river. After chatting with two Swiss teachers, I managed to push them towards Ellora caves.
I tagged along with a Bengali geophysicist. We both went ahead to
visit Kishkindha, few kilometres ahead. The epic land once ruled by
Monkey king Sugreev and his hulk like brother Vaali. Just in the middle
of river, there is a small stony hill where these two brothers fought
for a kingdom and women. Along this side of river, Ram did one of the
worst things of his life: Killing Vali while hiding behind the tree. We
saw poor Vaali’s lonely tomb in middle of nowhere and the place from
where Ram stood and shot his arrow. A place surrounded by a dense
jungle, stony hills and river with crystal clear water. Opportunity to
fight with a legend with so much fire within, such a high spirit, such
an attitude that God himself has to cheat to kill you. What kind of
fighter will deny such glorified death? Not to friendship of Ram and
Sugriv, but I bowed to that stand alone tomb, to memory of Vaali to
salute him.
Till now, us both were getting fried by the sun, took shelter in Chintan
Gumpha. The cave where Lord Ram, Lakshman, Hanuman and Sugriv decided
the battle plan to march Lanka. There is a chair like structure where
Lord rested. That cold cave took me back to the days of Chandamama
comics. The exact picture of this place from that comic appeared in
front of my eyes. Who is beside Lord? Is that Lakshman? Don’t judge him
over his age. He will teach thing or two in archery to your Lagolas. And
who is that awesome fellow? Ripped torso, compassionate eyes, smiley
face glowing with knowledge and power beyond anybody’s grasp? Yeah, must
be our Maruti. Here is that old chap Jambuvant. Don’t be so quick to
judge him by his grey hair and curved back. He had swam seven seas and
rounded up the earth while doing it. A knowledge repository for Vanar
Sena. And here is Sugriv, A king, but a friend first, who is ready to
throw away his kingdom, just on a mere sign from his friend Ram. Along
with him is his Nephew, Angad. Two architect bros Nal and Neel- Who
shall build the most magnificent structure Monkeys or Humans will ever
build- Ram setu (or Adams Bridge) and many more legendary fighters. We
sat there for a while trying to catch the glimpse of that epic.
Leaving that place behind, we drove towards a Dam. A mini Goa for
hippies to sun bath, swim and smoke. Came back, exchange goodbyes with
Bong geophysicist and started walking towards the bus stand with heavy
feet. The holiday has ended and now I have to go back to meetings,
deadlines, performances, politics and bank balance. I really hate these
holiday blues. It gives you a wired feeling of combination of
satisfaction and future monotonous dullness yet to come. I don’t want to
but can’t stop comparing Hampi with Ellora, king Krishnadevray with
Shivaji. I could see the importance of getting prepared for rainy days.
Whenever got extra, Krishnadevray gave away by raising Temples,
recreation halls and most beautiful Gardens. Whenever got extra, Shivaji
build forts, roads and raised armies. It’s just a preference whether to
protect living or to protect Religion praising the fairy tells. As I
look back, “choosing self-preservation, resistance and right back at you
attitude over religion and leisure- shall decide your mere existence
one day” is the most important thing I can take home with me from Hampi.
सिर्सितील सहस्त्रशिवलिंगे 💠☘️
ज्यातील मुख्य लिंगासमोर विशाल नंदी सर्वांचे लक्ष वेधून घेतो.
इतिहासातील प्रमाण पाहिले तर विजनगरचे शासक सदाशिवराय ह्यांनी वर्ष १६७८ ते १७१८ साल दरम्यान ह्या शिवलिंगाची स्थापना केल्याचे सांगितले जाते.
तसेच काहींच्या मते ह्या शिवलिंगाची स्थापना कर्नाटक मधील राजा सोंडा अकसप्पा नायक ह्यांनी पुत्र प्राप्तीच्या आरधने पोटी ऋषीच्या सांगण्यावरून सहस्र शिळेवर शिवलिंग कोरले, ज्याचे फळ म्हणून त्यांना राज्याला उत्तराधिकारी मिळाला.
सिर्सीतील सहत्रलिंगे ही नदीपात्रातील काळया खडकावर कोरलेली असून प्रत्येक शिवलिंगाचे आकार हे वेगवेगळे आहे. नदीपात्रातील जेव्हा पाण्याची पातळी कमी असते तेव्हाच शिवलिंग समवेत इतर शिल्पाचे व्यवस्थित निरीक्षण आपल्याला करता येते. अलीकडच्या काळात ह्यातील बऱ्याच शिवलिंगाची झीज झालेली असून त्यावर पर्यारी जलप्रवाह करून हे स्थान सुरक्षित ठेवणे फार गरजेचे आहे.
अश्या प्रकारे नदी पत्रात शिवलिंग कोरण्याची संस्कृती भारताबाहेर कांबोडियातील देशात अकराव्या शतकात खेमार साम्राज्यातील राजा उदयादीत्यवर्मन द्वितीय ह्याच्या कारकीर्दीत kbal spean नावाच्या नदीपात्रात अश्याच प्रकारची सहस्त्रलिंग कोरलेली आढळतात, ज्यामुळे त्या काळात दक्षिण पूर्व आशियाई देशांतील हिंदूंचे प्रस्थ लक्षात येते.
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