Saffron Flag
So here I was, 31 yrs old, still haven’t seen Raigad. It’s like being Redneck and haven’t visited WallMart to buy confederacy flag.
So, on one fine opportunity, I decided to run for the Mecca of
Maratha, Medina of all Maharashtra dharma followers, Gibraltar of the
east, King’s fort named Raigad. I was supposed to go alone, and then my
family will be joining me on next day over there celebrating our first
anniversary.
People usually go for Maldives, Europe, Kashmir or goa or something, but
we are, well, we are Maharashtrians. We don’t usually do normal stuff.
We do crazy stuff and we look awesome doing that.
Anyhow, so after doing many hours if research, we got the contact number
of MTDC manager of Raigad resort that was not so much excited to have
some business on weekdays. After trying three different numbers,
Whatsapp and several emails, finally our prayers came to rescue and I
managed to book the Raigad resort for couple of nights. I have read some
horrible experiences to this resort online, but this was our only
option. BTW, there always is an option for roap way. You can book a
hotel at base (Plenty of options available down there) and go by
roapway. There is no last call for roapway. Until last customer has
reached the base; they will continue to operate on weekends. Just make
sure to have a return roapway ticket and tell the operators about your
schedule first hand.
After tiring, boring, never ending journey from Bangalore to Pune,
next day at six in morning, I was in the bus, standing, on Swargate,
going towards Mahad. It’s recommended to have a reservation for this
bus, otherwise like me; you will end up sitting on the gear box of the
bus. It was chilling outside, so actually I did not mind sitting on that
hot gear box.
So, after dogging the morning traffic, we took a right turn on NH4
towards Bhor and the scenery changed completely. Dark green backwaters
on left and chain of hills on right. Although the road condition was not
so good, it was a driving heaven. Birds chirping, morning hearty sun
reflecting occasionally on backwater, playing hide and seek behind dense
forest, spellbind and impregnable hills of Sahyadri with cool morning
breezes flowing through them. I was in Nirvana. I found myself smiling
unknowingly. It has been so long since I have been to real world out
there. It would have been better if I was on bike and with my better
half. But this will do for now.
Driver took a break in Varandha Ghat, I grabbed two Vada Pav. OMG, after so many days. God, VadapaV is the most underrated food ever I thought. Reached Mahad at 10:30, got to know the next Pachad bus was leaving after two hrs. (One will leave at 7 and other at 12. Daily from Mahad to Raigad fort base). So after enquiring a bit, started walking towards Shivaji Chowk from where I got Maximo (private vehicles, they are being called as) which took me to base at around 11:15.
Its a Start.. Bow down your heads my friends
Took a break in hotel, had chilled Kokam Sharbat, changed into more comfortable shirt and, after bowing and touching the first step of the fort with utmost respect, started climb. Paying respect to the Hindu Durg, home of the legend, throne of the mighty Shivaji, capital of the beginning of the empire which later stretched from Lahore to Bangladesh, from Delhi to Mysore.
Takmak tok
Lost in my thoughts, and I missed few spots. I realized this after few hundred steps, after I crossed Khubladha Buruj. Now the sun was frying me. But slow and study I kept going taking occasional photo breaks. For the fort totally have 1410 steps, I was trying literally one step at a time. Occasional green canopy and walking on relatively flat surface was making things easy for me to control my breath.
Climb few hundred steps and so, you immediately will get to know why this is ‘The Location’ for the fort. This location is protected by multi layered chain of cliffs and mountains. These hills provide a natural protection to the Raigad. These surrounding hills, difficult terrains and dense jungles make this fort impossible to conquer. British named the fort as Gibraltar of the east. But unlike Gibraltar, Raigad carry old battle scars with proud. Many stories of bravery, treachery, love, hate, cues, plots, executions have been witnessed by this old guy. If you know how to walk it, he will gladly take you through his good, bad and ugly times.
Off course the highest honour he ever received was to be the location of the Coronation of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. After that, he has seen Coronation of Sambhaji raje, he also has not yet forgotten how that new young brave King was brutally diced into pieces by Alamgir Aurangzeb. He still remembers the narrow escape of King Raja ram, the second son of Shivaji Maharaj, from Raigad to Jinji. And he still remembers the last stand taken by Varanasibai, Wife of Bajirao II against East India British forces. And now all that remaining is few half collapsed buildings and traces of the building foundations, thanks to Britts. Nothing else.
Maha Darwaja
There are two ways to enter the fort. One by hiking, and one by roapway. I choose the first one. Reached on fort after 1:30 hour if tiring climb in sun. Maha dawraja greets you with Sharabh animals on each side. Holding down the elephant under his foot. This symbol represents the might of the empire which can overpower even the mightiest of all powers. I was awestruck by the mesmerizing sight in front of me.
Alanga at Maha Darwaja (Sentry Post)
Construction of Mahadarwaja is as such, that even the enemy somehow managed to reach at entrance; they cannot ram the fort gates as the way is curved to ninety degrees. Direct bombardment from the base on the fort gate is also impossible for this reason. Paid 15 RS to the officer as entrance fees and took a break. As soon as you enter through the gates, on the right side, you will find old base foundation structure adjacent to the fortification. It is called as ‘Alanga’ where sentries or doorkeepers use to stay.
And my watch begins…
After having a brief water break and a call to family, I found out that there are still 300 steps remaining. Ok, I said and started again. Took some snaps of the couple of cannons watching over Jawli area and I went ahead in speed.
After crossing dried up ‘Hatti talao/Elephant Lake’ I came across ‘Ganga Sagar‘ lake. Here, prisoners have to dig and carry stones which were being used to construct this fort. The two towers, along with some part of Bale Killa is reflected in the lake. I reached the short tower. I brushed my right hand lightly on one of the stones.
From ‘Palkhi Darwaja’, while keeping the queen quarters on my right,
resisting the strong temptation to roam around on fort I went straight
to MTDC, to take charge of dormitory. It was in decent shape. Choose one
clean bed, cleaned it a bit more, got freshen up and went to lunch.
Pithla Bhakri and thecha. Simple pleasures of life. No dinner in any
lavishly beautiful five star hotel can compete this. There is something
free, proud like feeling in this air. Very hard to get this feeling in
overcrowded, polluted cities.
After lunch, took a break in dorm, and at 3:30, could not wait anymore,
got up, picked my cam and went to meet the almighty Raigad.
PALKHI DARWAJA
MTDC resort is located just next to roapway exit. After that, fort begins from East side. So the entrance is ‘Mena Darvaja’. Here, climb some stairs. Enter through Balekilla. And stand straight keeping the entrance at your back. On right hand side, you will see granary and palaces of King’s cabinet minister quarters. These granaries are at least fifteen feet deep with three compartments in it. During Peshwe period, it was used as prison.
Queen Chambers
On the left side, there are these huge square shaped identical Chambers, called as ‘Rani Vasa/queen’s quarters’. These 6 quarters are stretched from ‘Mena Darwaja’ to ‘Palakhi Darwaja’. As the name suggest, these rooms were constructed for queens. Maharaj had 8 wives. His first, mother of Shambho raje, the most beautiful Saibai Ranisaheb was deceased just before the Legendary Battle of Pratapgad. Her highness now lives in King’s heart forever. For rest six, he has built this palace. Due to old age, and harsh weather on fort, Jijamata, the Mother of King, was unable to stay on fort, hence king has constructed a fortified palace just for her at base village named Pachad. You can see the fortification of that palace from fort. So one queen, queen Putalabai use to stay down with Kig Mother Jijau and rest six queens use to stay, inside the fort palace. Once you enter these Queen’s Chambers, you will find two identical square shaped foundations, for one is claimed as kitchen and other as bedroom.
Toilets. Simple and Efficient.
Behind each palace, there is square room with 8 toilets. These toilet blocks can be seen as square extension from outside. In front of each palace, beyond pavement, there are six identical foundations of same lengths of each palace but with shorter width. These are the quarters for Queen’s servants.
Walk beyond that keeping the granary to right and ‘Palakhi Darwaja’ to left, enter through that small gate. You will find three identical foundations. First one is the place where legend uses to live. Only Bhavani knows how much time he actually used to spend here. Looking back at his life of 18349 days, I think he actually never had a rest. Being a tireless warrior, he must have spent majority of his time either on battlefield or in his Khalbatkhana or secret discussion Chambers which is located on the left, just in between King’s palace and coiner or ‘Taksal’.
The next foundation in front of King’s palace is ‘Daptarkhana’. All the orders for all the 360 forts were issued from this place. This was the ministry office of ‘Shrinche Swarajya’. As sacrade as King’s palace itself.
Sinhasanadhishwar
Now I could not stall any longer even if I wanted to. I started walking towards the Coronation room. After passing the Peshwa era constructed black brick wall with Windows, I was in the throne room. How can I ever describe how I felt? I was overwhelmed with Proud, esteem, honour, joy, valour, responsibility and much more. Under the beautiful bronze canopy, there is a statue of Sinhasanadhishwar king. Sitting on his gold throne. Overlooking the horizon.
असे वाटले कि हरितात्या इथे असते तर त्यांनी सुरवात केली असती कि ‘अरे गरुडासारखे डोळे, गरुडासारखे नाक” आणि मग आम्हीच “डौलदार दाढी, गालावर कल्ले, डोक्याला मंदिल, छातीवर मोत्यांची माळ , कपाळाला गंध, कमरेला भवानी” असे ओरडलो असतो.
For usual tourist, it will be like a half built room without roof and Shivaji statue overlooking. But for me, I was dragged to some other timeline. I removed my cap, one hand on my rapidly beating heart, started chanting ‘ Nischayacha Mahameru’ Poem by Samarth Ramdasswami.
निष्चयाचा महामेरू । बहुत जनांसी आधारू ।
अखंड स्थितीचा निर्धारू । श्रीमंत योगी ॥
I stood quietly near Nagarkhana with head held high and chest filled with pride.
Nagarkhana
After some time, I came back to the present timeline, I moved, and got out of Nagarkhana silently.
Bajarpeth & Holicha Mal with Nagarkhana @ Background
Descending the steps, you will teach a plateau called ‘Holicha Maal’. Shivaji statue overlooking the huge construction site. It is a row of 22 constructions of exactly same sized squares and dimensions. Usual belief is, this place is a marketplace for shopping, and these were the shops with three identical rooms each. Front room for sale, second for storage and third as a house for shopkeepers. This whole market structure is elevated at the height of approx. 5 feet above the ground level. Common belief is it was for shoppers won’t have to get down from horses for shopping. In modern sense, it was a huge drive through shopping mall. But this is according to one Englishman who visited this place almost a century after it was destroyed. There is no historical evidence for this. I on the other hand go with some other historians as this was the place for Ministers and officers to carry out the day to day empirical transactions.
Towards Takmak Point
Anyways, I went ahead to the direction of the dangerous Takmak tok.
It was getting dark. I climbed over one hill overlooking the takmak tok,
removed my bag and sat there for a while. Blonde grassland spread
across the plateau was making funny patterns as wind currents flows
through them. The horizon was blue. I could see the first mountain
ranges surrounding the fort clearly. They were blackish blue in colour.
The range beyond was slightly less visible, and beyond and
beyond…Wherever you can see, there were these dark blue mountains
pointing towards the dark blue skies. Like tall and strong Maratha
worriers with spears guarding the King’s fort. The proud tall Saffron
flag raised on takmak point was flapping with the wind over that blue
background. I could hear the beats of drums played in Nagarkhana as a
signal of sunset. That huge fort was filled with those sturdy deep
beats. Echo was reflecting through the bellow deep dark valley, dragging
me to the good old days of Maharaja.
After the dark, I got up and started walking towards Rajsadar. Shivaji statue is illuminated at night. Stood there for a while. It supposed to be a full moon, a super moon, but it was cloudy. After spending some time there, I walked towards MTDC. Had dinner early, and went to sleep in that ghostly Dormitory. I was alone there in that big hall for tonight. I red for a while, wrote for a while, trying not to be afraid by the ghastly harsh wind flowing through the dorm, making funny noises. Tomorrow, my family will be joining me. Adwait out.
The Rising
Woke up early in the morning, jumped out of comforter, splashed water on my face and I started running outside. Reached to the railings quickly to capture the sunrise. Now, I was on the north end, and again Raigad was surrounded by cliffs. Wind was blowing heavily as the cyclone was reaching Maharashtra coastal area. I don’t know whether this fort is making me dumbstruck by his natural rugged beauty or making me peaceful by its proximity to a pure raw nature. But I found myself quieter, calmer, happier, and closer to peace and freedom.
I returned back to Dorm, got freshen up, had breakfast at MTDC and went to see Jagadishwar Temple and Maharaj Samadhi. Again, walking through Raani Vasa, Diwane khas, Rajasabha, Holicha maal, I walked towards Jagadishwar.
Jagadishwar Temple from distance
Form a distance, it looks like mosque. With a signature dome and everything. But as you get closer, you can clearly see it’s a lotus shaped design. Leaving my shoes outside, I entered the temple area. There was nobody here this early and I was completely alone. As someone who has seen his fair share of temples and shrines, this doesn’t look like a special temple. Just a tall, square solid strong wall, and main dome on the roof, surrounded by small 4 domes at each corner. Not much craftsmanship like Abu or like Hampi’s Vitthal temple.
But I was not interested in the temple of Jagadishwar right now. I crossed the Jagadishwar temple compound and found myself facing ‘Shivasmarak’. Keeping the temple behind, I walked straight towards my temple, where Rajadhiraj Praudhprataap Purandar was cremated. It is an octagonal stone built platform, inside of which ashes (raksha kalash) of Shivaji Maharaj was kept. Again the same feeling of tranquillity. Had to sit down for a while to process the image lying in front of eyes. Black and while stone cold canopy over octagonal platform shining occasionally under the morning sun, on the background of the mighty sahyadri, sun playing hide and seek behind clouds and harsh winds coming directly from Arabian sea whistling. I started singing my favourite lines written by MahaKavi Bhushan…
Shivasmarak
इन्द्र जिमि जृम्भा पर बाडव सअंभ पर, रावण सदंभ पर रघुकुल राज है !
पवन बारिबाह पर, संभु रतिनाह पर, ज्यों सहसबाह पर राम द्विजराज हैं !
दावा दृमदंड पर, चीता मृगझुन्द पर, भूषण वितुण्ड पर जैसे मृगराज हैं !
तेज तमअंस पर, कन्ह जिमि कंस पर, त्यों म्लेंच्छ बंस पर शेर शिवराज हैं!!!!!!!!!!!
Just behind, there is a disputed Samadhi of Waghya dog (who supposable jumped in flames during the cremation of Raje) overlooking his king. Personally, I think that is the platform where Maharani Putalabai went Sati, to join her King for eternity.
Prasado Jagadishwarasya…
As you enter the smarak, you will find one Sanskrit writing on your right hand. It reads as follows:
।। श्रीगणपतये नम:।।
प्रासादो जगदीश्वरस्य जगतामानंद दोनुज्ञय ।श्रीमच्छत्रपते: शिवस्य नृपते: सिंहासने तिष्ठतः ।।
शाके षणणवबाणभूमि गणनादानंद संवत्सरे । ज्योती राजमुहूर्त किर्तीमहीते शुक्लेशसार्पे तिथौ ।।१।।
वापिकूपतडागराजिरूचिरै हर्म्ये वनै वीथिके ।स्तंभै: कुंम्भीगृहै नरेन्द्र सदनैरभ्रंलिहे र्मीहिते ।।
श्री मद्रायगिरौ गिरामविषये हिरोजीना निर्मीतो ।
यावचन्द्रदिवाकरौ विलसत स्तावत्समुज्जॄम्भते ।।२।।
Meaning:, This majestic house of god which brings happiness to all people was built by Hiroji on the order of Coroneted King Shivaji, built on an auspicious day in 1596 (Shak) contains wells, lakes, pleasing gardens, roads, pillars, monuments and palaces will stand here a tall, till the sun and the moon lies in skies.
As it’s been a while since I red Sanskrit, I had to take out the book “Durgadurgeshwar Raigad” by PK Ghanekar sir, and then I tried reading the encryptions. I sat down on last step near the entrance of Samadhi and started reading what Ghanekar sir has to say about it.
Seweche thayi tatpar…Hiroji you brilliant architect
As I was about to finish reading, something caught through corner of
my eve and I jumped quickly on my feet. It was the famous step of Hiroji
Indulkar that I was sitting on. Vitthala Temple at Pandharpur is prayed
by whole Maharashtra. If you have paid your visit there, you might have
familiarized with the Namyachi Payri, i.e. the step of Saint Namdev.
.This step has the same sanctity and purity of Namdev’s Step. Quite a
bit more actually.
It says Seveche thai Tatpar, Hiroji Indulkar. Meaning- At service, Hiroji Indulkar.
सेवेचे ठायी तत्पर।
हिरोजी इंदूलकर ।।
Construction for Raigad took 14 years. The main architect/engineer
was this gem named Hiroji Indulkar. During this wide time span, Maharaj
went to Agra, got imprisoned by Aurangzeb for many months. Here, Hiroji
ran out of funds. He kept his home, land mortgage. His wife did same
with her jewelry. Raised money and continued the construction with
dedication and devotion. After the historical escape of Agra, Maharaj
came back, and later, the Fort was built eventually. After viewing the
fort, off course Maharaj was nothing lesser than ecstatic. He ordered
Hiroji to demand anything in the world that he wishes for. And what
Hiroji asked in return? To keep the sign stone of his name on the first
step of the Temple. Not to make everybody reminded of who built the
fort, but for- whenever Maharaj will come to pay tributes to
Jagadishwar, his holy feet will sprinkle dust on Hiroji’s name. What a
dedication, what kind of men.
If some people consider Shivaji as a Avatar of Shiva himself, surely,
Hiroji was non the lesser than Vishwakarma, who raised this stoned built
Dwarka 850 meters above the sea level, I thought.
Tatabandi from Maha darwaja
As Babasaheb Purandare says, “only a stream of water was allowed to flow from top and only a wind to flow from bottom without the permission from the fort. The only way to win this fort is by sheer treachery”. I gently brushed my hand on ‘The Tile’, the greatest and humble most sign stone ever made, I went towards Jagadishwar temple.
Jagadishwar Temple
The beautiful Nandi sitting upfront welcomes you while Ganesh Patti greets you as you enter the temple. As being built in stones, it was cool inside. There was no one near that area that early in the morning. Veer Maruti was greeting me with a mischievous smile. As I was alone, I sat down in front of my favorite god for a while, unknowingly started chanting Bhimarupi Maharudra- By Samarth Ramdas.
As I chanted, my voice echoed in that 300 yr old temple. Goosebumps. I felt like I was somehow being connected to Maharaj and Samarth through that Veer hanuman statue with tail in his one hand, other waiving in anger, while standing tall on Panavti or Sadesaati.
रामदासीं अग्रगण्यू कपिकुळासि मंडणू ।
रामरूपी अन्तरात्मा दर्शने दोष नासती ॥
I finished Bhimarupi mantra. Shouting जय जय रघुवीर समर्थ with both hands in air, I entered the sanctum Sanatorium of the temple.
Oam Namah Shiway OR Jai Shivaray…Its really hard to differentiate.
Kailasarana was residing there. Prayed there, and I came out of the same temple where Maharaj use to pray.
Got out of the temple, received call from wife. Just for sake of fun and exercise, I started walking towards the base village. After 45 mins, I was near the khoobladha buruj, where I met wife, she bought my family. Father, mother, Father in Law and Mother in law. After some meet and greet, I started climbing again towards the fort feeling I could do this every day, for the rest of my life, happily.
Gangasagar through Sadar
|| रायगडावरी खडे पसरले शिवरायांचे पायी | तीच आम्हाला माणिक मोती दुसरी दौलत नाही ||
How to reach:
By Bus:
To Mahad: By Bus from Pune to Mahad (Swargate Bus
Stand: Ealry morning Bus at 6:00 daily. After that, after every 2 hrs).
Bus ticket: 133 Rs.
From Mahad ST Stand to Raigad Base: Bus at 8:00, 12:00 and so on. Not much frequency.
Walk towards Shivaji chowk from Mahad ST Stand which is 1Km walk and
from there, you will get Share Taxi to reach Raigad base/Pachad. In
Mahad, they call these share Taxies as ‘Maximo’. Enquire for them near
Shivaji Chowk, Mahad. Maximo Ticket: 40 Rs.
By Car:
Pune-Bhor-Varandha Ghat
Pune-Chandani Chowk-Pirangut-Tamhini ghat-Mangaon-Pachad
Pune-Chandani Chowk-Pirangut-Tamhini ghat-Nizampur-Pachad
Raigad Roap way. Dont worry, it won’t fall down.
Roapway info: You will have to go to Hirkaniwadi for Roapway. Share taxi mentioned above from Mahad will drop you there. Latest ticket fare is:
One way ticket: Rs. 175
Two Way ticket: Rs. 285
(Senior citizen) Two Way ticket: Rs. 190 (Need age proof)
MTDC Resort at Raigad:
Delux Room: Weekdays: Rs.1680
Weekends: Rs.2016
Dormitory: Weekdays: Rs.300 PP. Rs. 6000 for entire Dorm.
Weekends: Rs.400 PP. Rs. 8000 for entire Dorm.
Contact: 9422787776/9422787705/7276123053
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