Bhigwan Lake : A Photologue
Bhigwan lake lies near the town Bhigwan off Pune-Solapur highway (90kms from Pune). It is a favourite destination of birdies from all over India and is famous for its migratory birds, especially in the winter season.
A boat can be hired at village Diksal , 15kms near Bhigwan , which takes one around the lake.
One gets to see birds like flamingoes, demoiselle cranes, open billed storks, painted storks,grey heron, king fishers, harriers,purple herons, egrets,gulls, ducks etc.
Photos:
Pic: Flamingos
Pic: Demoiselle crane
Pic: Egret
Pic: Egret
Pic: Ibis
Pic: Spoon bill stork
Pic: Painted stork
Pic: Open billed stork
Pic: Gadwall duck
Pic: Grey heron
Pic: Gull
Pic: Black winged stilt
Pic: White browed wagtail
Pic: Marsh harrier
Pic: Pond heron
Pic: Purple heron
Pic: White throated kingfisher
Text & Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Lonavala Wax Museum
Lonavala Wax Museum displays the wax works of sculptor artist Sunil Kandaloor. It is built on the lines of the Madame Tussauds museum London and the Paris wax museum. It is located at Lonavala (60 kms from Pune) at the start of the Lonavala Karla road. He has already established a similar museum in Kanyakumari. The museum displays wax statues of several famous personalities like Anna Hazare, Mahatma Gandhi,Babasaheb Ambedkar,Ch.Shivaji Maharaj,Swami Vivekananda,Kapil Dev,Sri Sri Ravishankar,Sai Baba,Ma Amrutanandamayi,Jackie Shroff,MS Subalakshmi,A R Rehman,Michael Jackson,Saddam Hussain,Hitler etc.
Some of the statues have a almost perfect likeness to their original counterparts and are difficult to distinguish apart.
pic source (above pic) : ekpravas.blogspot.com
Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha (except the ones credited).
Miscellaneous churches of Goa
Mae de deus (mother of god) church was built in 1873 in Gothic architectural style at Saligao (10kms from Panjim), North Goa.
Miscellaneous churches in Goa:
St Cajetan church (prev.known as Church of our lady of divine providence) built in the 18th century in Corinthian architectural style by Italian friars of the Theatine order.
Our Lady of Merces , a.k.a Nossa Senhora de merces ,Colva built in 1630-5. Its statue of infant Jesus was brought from the Mozambique coast by a Jesuit priest Bento Fereira and placed in the church in 1648.
Se Cathedral, Old Goa built in 1619 to commemorate victory of Alfonso de Albureques army against the moslems. It is built in the Portuguese Manueline architectural style.
Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa built in 1604 in Baroque style architecture.It holds the mummified body of St Frances Xavier.
Se cathedral, Old Goa
Church of our lady of immaculate conception, Panjim built in 1543-7 (rebuilt in 1619) in Manueline architectural style.
St Joachim church, Margao
Narsobachi wadi, Kolhapur
Narsobachi wadi is famous for its Dattatreya temple and the samadhi of the saint Swami Narsinha Saraswati .
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It is located near Kurundwad, 40 kms from Kolhapur.
.JPG)
The original temple was built almost 600 years ago and has undergone several renovations since then.
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The temple exists at the confluence of the Krishna Panchaganga rivers.
Being a very popular holy site, Narsaobachi wadi has state transport buses plying at a regular frequencies from Kolhapur.
Text and photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Ancestral Goa (Big Foot) Museum : Loutelim, Goa
Ancestral Goa museum is the brainchild of artist Maendra Jocelino Araujo Alvares.
Pics(above): Sachin Dinde
The museum is situated at Loutelim and is also known as the Big Foot museum, because of the presence of a stone imprint of a large foot which the locals believe to be that of a local saint.
Pics (above): Sachin Dinde
There is also a large sculpture of Saint Mirabai. It holds the Limca record of the largest laterite sculpture in India
For more details refer http://www.ancestralgoa.com
Text and photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Bhaja Caves : A Photo Feature
Bhaja caves are a ancient Hinayana Buddhist cave monastery excavated sometime from 2nd cen BC to 1st cen AD. They are located atop a mountain alongside the base village of Bhaja (from which the caves get their name or perhaps vice versa) in Maval khore region around 2kms from Malavli railway station near Lonavala (64kms from Pune city).
The caves can be accessed by climbing a series of steep stone steps (which can be covered in half an hours time).
The caves were a part of the highway connecting the ancient trade ports of Kalyan and Sopara.
Traders often used these caves for a stopover before proceeding to the ports and back.
Bhaja caves are also in proximity (5kms away) to the famous Karla caves (Note: ancient name of Karla was Veluraka).In fact the architectural style of Karla and Bhaja caves is quite similar.
In vicinity are also the famous forts of Lohagad and Visapur.
Bhaja acted as a great learning centre for Buddhism and also provided accomodation for the residing monks.
Bhaja is a group of 18 caves.
The main cave is a 17x18 mtr chaityagriha (having a arched horseshoe shaped facade similar to Karla). The main stupa (3.45 mtr dia) has an apse background with a grooved ribbed ceiling made in timber.
There are shilalekhs (probably in the brahmi script) mentioning donor details found in various spaces.
Besides the chaityagrihas there are many viharas where the monks were lodged. The interiors of the viharas are very simple. They have a stone plinth that probably doubled as a bed and a chair. There is also a water reservoir outside the rooms to provide potable water for the monks.
Pic: Surya
Pic: Indra
Also present is a pillared hall with some beautiful carvings of various deities (Surya,Indra), dwarpalas, animals etc.
Then there is cave room that has 14 nos smaller stupas located inside(5 nos) as well as outside(9 nos) the enclosure. They are said to store relics and ashes of the departed monks.
All in all the Bhaja caves are a tourists delight and a fine specimen for study by visting historians, archaelogists and students.
The best time to visit Bhaja would be in the monsoons (though they can be visited 365 days in a year), where there are cascades all around and the caves themselves are enwrapped with a green blanket.
Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Changavateshwar & Sangameshwar temples, Saswad : A Photo Feature
Changavateshwar temple
Venue: Saswad, 40km from Pune.
History: This temples Shivlinga was said to have been originally installed by Sage Changadeva(12th/13th cen AD). Jeernoddhar of temple by Sardar Ambuji Purandare in 1700 AD.
Sangameshwar temple, Saswad. Built at the confluence of the Karha and Chamli rivers.
Pic: Mastani talao (as seen from Dive ghat: enroute Pune Saswad road) built by Punyashlok Ahilyabai Holkar in late18th century.
Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Venue: Saswad, 40km from Pune.
History: This temples Shivlinga was said to have been originally installed by Sage Changadeva(12th/13th cen AD). Jeernoddhar of temple by Sardar Ambuji Purandare in 1700 AD.
Pic:shikhara
pic: mandovara
Pic:sthambha shilpa depicting Sharabha
Note: Temple walls & pillars have carvings depicting Gods,Godesses,Celestial beings, stories from ancient texts etc.
Note: Temple walls & pillars have carvings depicting Gods,Godesses,Celestial beings, stories from ancient texts etc.
Pic:Deepamala
Pic: Nandi placed in the antarala
Pic: sabhamandapa
pic: garbhagriha doorframe as seen from the vestibule
pic:sthambha shilpa
pic: a woman churning curds
pic:malayuddha shilp
pic:Vanar shilp
pic: Sharabha shilpa
pic:dancing Apsaras
pic: Mayur shilp
Sangameshwar temple, Saswad. Built at the confluence of the Karha and Chamli rivers.
Pic: Samadhi of Peshwa Balaji Vishwanath Bhat
pic:Nandi
pic:shikhara
Pic:temple shikhara & mandovara
pic:shikhara of an adjoining minor temple
pic: Nandi seated in the sabhamandap
pic:rest rooms
pic: Sangameshwar temple is built alongside the confluence of Karha & Chamli rivers
pic:rearside minor temple
pic: Nandi outside a minor temple behind Sangameshwar
Pic:Godaji Jagtaps samadhi outside Sangameshwar temple Saswad.Godaji Jagtap had struck down Muse Khan, second in command of Fateh Khan (Adilshahi commander) when the latter had attacked fort Purandar.
Mahalaxmi temple, Kolhapur
Mahalaxmi or Ambabai temple as it is locally known is situated in the heart of the Kolhapur city in South Maharashtra.
The temple was constructed sometime in 6-7th cen. AD.
The style of construction is distinctly Chalukyan as can be seen from the other Chalukyan temple located in the neighboring state of Karnataka.
The temple is dedicated to Goddess Mahalaxmi and has been patronised over the years by various ruling dynasties like the Marathas, Yadavas, Silharas etc.
The entire temple is built in blackstone and probably in the male female conjoint type construction without use of mortor.
The sabhamandapa appears to have been built during the maratha period and has a wooden construction typical to that period.
The temple has a stellate plan and its walls are ornate with several motifs and figurines of Gods, Goddesses, Apsaras, Gandharvas, Yakshas etc.
Photos :
Misc. photos of Kolhapur:
Misc photos - Shalini palace and Rankala lake:
Text & Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
THURSDAY, MAY 2, 2013
Bhigwan Lake : A Photologue
Bhigwan lake lies near the town Bhigwan off Pune-Solapur highway (90kms from Pune). It is a favourite destination of birdies from all over India and is famous for its migratory birds, especially in the winter season.
A boat can be hired at village Diksal , 15kms near Bhigwan , which takes one around the lake.
One gets to see birds like flamingoes, demoiselle cranes, open billed storks, painted storks,grey heron, king fishers, harriers,purple herons, egrets,gulls, ducks etc.
Photos:
Pic: Flamingos
Pic: Demoiselle crane
Pic: Egret
Pic: Egret
Pic: Ibis
Pic: Spoon bill stork
Pic: Painted stork
Pic: Open billed stork
Pic: Gadwall duck
Pic: Grey heron
Pic: Gull
Pic: Black winged stilt
Pic: White browed wagtail
Pic: Marsh harrier
Pic: Pond heron
Pic: Purple heron
Pic: White throated kingfisher
Text & Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Gondeshwar Temple : A Photo Feature
Gondeshwar is a 12/13th century hindu temple carved out in black basalt stone.
It is located at Sinnar near Nasik , off Pune Nasik highway (26kms from Nasik).
There are different claims towards the origin of this temple. As per some sources the temple was said to have been built by the Seuna Yadava king Govinda, hence was named Gondeshwar. However a 13th cen. marathi text Leelacharitra (by Chakradhara, founder of Mahanubhava sect) mentions a merchant named Govinda ( Govindeshwar=Gondeshwar) as having commissioned the temple. There is a mention of Yadava king Mahadeva (1261+) arriving in the town of Sinnar during the time of Chakradhara.
Note, there was a Bhilama matha in Sinnar (probably patronised by the Yadava king Bhillama).
The temple has been built as per the Panchayatana style with the Shiva temple being the main one and surrounded by minor temples as that of Ganesh, Parvati, Vishnu and Surya.
The temple can be classified as the bhumija nagara type with the shikhara having a central frame that tapers on all sides and surrounded by columns of smaller spires.
The temple is a wondorous display of art in stone. It has for testimony some amazing carvings and sculptures depicting stories from the Puranas and epics like the Mahabharata etc. The walls display sculptures of Devas,Devis, Apsaras, Yakshas,Gandharvas etc, that have weathered time to retain a semblance of their beauty.
This temple despite its enormous historical and cultural value lies hitherto unknown, virtually hidden from the outside world. But that also enables its tranquility and existence to lie so very conserved.
Additional photographs:
Acknowledgements: Amol Bankar
Text and Photographs : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
A Visit to Fort Shivneri : A Photo Travelogue
Date of Visit: 13th December 2009
On the way back from the nearby Lenyadri Caves, we decided to pay fort Shivneri a visit. It was well past two in the afternoon. The high altitude Lenyadri trip had sapped our energy, but enthusiasm to see the fort pushed us to embark on the climb.
The Fort Shivneri is located at Junnar town (which was earlier called Jeernanagar and Juner , and acted as a trade route to the Konkan ports), around 100 kms from Pune (off Narayangaon on Pune Nasik highway).It is one of the few well maintained forts in Maharashtra, thanks to the efforts of the locals and the initiatives taken by Shri A.M.Sonawane, the R.F.O, Junnar jurisdiction.
PIC: LUSH GREEN FIELDS AS SEEN FROM THE FORT
It has become memorable in history as the birthplace of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj, the legendary Maratha warrior king. It is unclear who actually constructed the fort, but its origins have been traced back to the Satavahana period(Their king Gautamiputra Satkarni was said to have replaced the Saka rule in this region). There were many Buddhist caves built in the vicinity. But the actual fortification may have started during the Yadava rule and continued during the Islamic rule ( Bahamani rule and later Nizamshahi of Ahmednagar). When Shahaji raje Bhosale was surrounded by enemy forces, he shifted his wife Jijabai who was pregnant with Shivaji to fort Shivneri (which was under the care of its Killedar( Fortkeeper) Sriniwas Vishwasrao).Shahajiraje ensured the streanthening of the fort to protect his family from the enemy forces. Chatrapati Shivajiraje gave up this fort in 1632 and it passed hands to the Mughals in 1637. In 1637 an attempt was made to recapture the fort by the Marathas but it was unsuccessfull. However during Chatrapati Shahurajes tenure, the Marathas surmounted the fort. The fort was later maintained by the Peshwas.
We could take our vehicle upto the foothills and parked the same below the fort.
PIC: MAHA DARWAZA
To reach the top of the fort you have to climb around 400 odd stone steps. It takes you almost one and a half hours to reach there, depending on ones stamina. To reach the top, you have to pass through seven huge fortified gates named as Maha Darwaza(Gate), Ganesh Darwaza, Pir Darwaza, Hatti(Elephant) Darwaza, Shivai (Godess temple) Darwaza ,Mena(Palanquin for the ladies) Darwaza and Kulup (lock)Darwaza.
PIC: GANESH DARWAZA
PIC: PIR DARWAZA
PIC: MENA DARWAZA
PIC: KULUP DARWAZA
PIC: HATTI DARWAZA
The most distinctly conspicuous gate one encounters is the Hatti darwaza (Elephant gate) due to its huge wooden doors fortified with iron spikes. It may have been named so, either because it was a gate to allow in the elephants, or the sharp iron spikes were meant to ward off even a elephant attack.
PIC: SHIVAI DARWAZA
Inside the premises you come across the temple of Shivai (pronounced Shivaaii) devi, the Godess of the Fort accessible through the Shivai Darwaza. It is to be noted that Shivaji was named after the Godess.
PIC: AMBERKHANA
As you climb further, you see the Amberkhana ruins, that probably served as the quarters for Malik Ahmed, then a Bahamani commander and later the progenitor of Nizamshahi of Ahmednagar, who first occupied the fort. It occupies an area of 20 x 10 meters and is an black stone structure. It reveals the presence of an regal structure that existed during those times. It later served as a grainery. During the times of Malojirao Bhosale (Shahajis father) it was used to redress public grievances. During Maratha rule, it was said to serve as stables for horses and also to house elephants.
PIC: GANGA JAMUNA TANK
As you proceed further, you come across large water tanks and water reservoirs(there are said to be ten water tanks on Shivneri, the main water cistern being the Ganga Jamuna), said to have been constructed during Yadava times.
Still further lies a memorial dedicated to Shivaji viz. ‘Shiv kunj’ or Shiv smarak, which was inaugurated by the first chief minister of Maharashtra, Shri Yeshwantrao Chavan. Therein lies a beautiful panchadhaatu (5 alloys) statue of Shivaji as a boy with his mother Jijabai.
PIC: KAMANI MOSQUE WITH THE ARCH PAINTED IN WHITE
To the right of Shiv kunj lies the Kamani mosque having Quranic verses engraved on its arch. This mosque was constructed by the Mughals after they had occupied the fort.
Diagonally facing the mosque is a storeyed stone building (which was I was told was reconstructed in 1925 by Chatrapati Shahu maharaj of Kolhapur and Shri Bhaskarrao Jadhav, Education secretary, Mumbai), which was the birthplace of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It was previously accessed by the ‘suryamukhi dwaar’ (sun facing door) which you come across as you walk still further. But since then , apart from the main building rest of the premises are ruins. Facing the main door (which is entered from the rear, the front cascade being Jharoka styled windows).
A few meters away from the main door is a square water reservoir made inside the stone flooring.
As you enter the main door, you first come across a room which houses a statue of Ch.Shivaji and cradle to signify his birthplace. Alongside this room is a narrow stone stairway which lead to the upper floor. There are arched windows on all sides and also the earlier mentioned jharoka windows). The ceiling is also beautifully done.
Diagonally facing the mosque is a storeyed stone building (which was I was told was reconstructed in 1925 by Chatrapati Shahu maharaj of Kolhapur and Shri Bhaskarrao Jadhav, Education secretary, Mumbai), which was the birthplace of Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It was previously accessed by the ‘suryamukhi dwaar’ (sun facing door) which you come across as you walk still further. But since then , apart from the main building rest of the premises are ruins. Facing the main door (which is entered from the rear, the front cascade being Jharoka styled windows).
A few meters away from the main door is a square water reservoir made inside the stone flooring.
As you enter the main door, you first come across a room which houses a statue of Ch.Shivaji and cradle to signify his birthplace. Alongside this room is a narrow stone stairway which lead to the upper floor. There are arched windows on all sides and also the earlier mentioned jharoka windows). The ceiling is also beautifully done.
Facing the birthplace structure is the ‘Badami talao’ which was an artificially created water pool. Right in its midst is a stone pillar .
On the way back you notice an tomb like structure atop an hillock. It is the ‘Koli Chauthara’, a memorial constructed for the hundreds of ‘kolis’ (fishermen) massacared by the occupying mughals after an outbreak of a rebellion(1650). Unfortunately due to the paucity of time we weren’t able to see the monument. We later realized that we missed the ‘Kadeloat’ point as well, where prisoners sentenced to death were thrown of the cliff (kadeloat).Alongside the Kadeloat point was the Qaidkhana (prison).
Nor could we see the Idgah structure (which has some Bahamani graves) , as we hurried down the stone stairs.
But on the way back we were able to photograph the sunset which indeed looks beautiful from the fort.
Fortunately going down wasn’t as strenuous as the way up and we reached the foothill within fourty five minutes.
Having finished our exhausting but fulfilling trip, we headed back for Pune, with wonderful memories of Shivneri.
Text and photographs by Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Lenyadri Caves : A Photo Feature
Lenyadri Caves or Ganesh Lena Caves as they are also known are located 4 km north of Junnar (100km from Pune) across the river Kukdi. They are a part of the Junnar group of caves. There are nearly 40 caves in this group of which the main group of 30 caves are located in a line and stretch from east to west, all facing south and overlooking the valley of Kukdi river.
The caves are numbered from east to west and among them Cave 6 and 14 are chaityagrhas and the remaining are viharas (monasteries) of which Cave 7 is the larges and also houses the image of Ganesha. The remaining monasteries are small in size which has two or three cells, in some cases with a front verandah. They range in date from 1st century to 3rd century A.D.
Cave 6 is the main chaityagrha of the Lenyadri group of caves. Although of smaller dimensions when compared to Ajanta, Karle, Bhaja, Bedsa, etc. it is significant as one of the earliest examples of Hinayana chaityagrha. On plan, the chaityagrha consists of a pillared verandah and an apsidal hall divided into a central nave and side aisles by row of sixteen pillars. The hall measures 13.3 in length; 6.7 m in width and 7.6 m in height. The hall is preceded by a pillared verandah and entered by a plain and large doorway measuring 1.8 m in width and 2.79 m in height. The stupa is located at the rear and consists of a drum with a moulding below and railing above, a globular dome and a corbelled dome with a railing at the base. A donatory inscription datable to 2nd century A.D. mentions it as a gift of a native from Kalyana (modern Kalyan near Mumbai).
Cave 7 is a huge vihara and the largest excavation at Junnar. The cave is located to the right of Cave 6 to its west. On plan the vihara consists of a large hall with cells on three sides, entered by a central door from a pillared verandah the latter approached by a flight of steps. The central door is flanked by a window on either side. The hall measures 17.37 m in length; 15.54 m in width and 3.38 m in height and it has traces of plaster and paintings.
There are 20 cells in total with varying dimensions, 7 cells in either of the side walls and 6 cells on the rear wall. The two central cells of the rear wall has been converted into one during later period and at present a Ganesha image is consecrated for worship. The verandah has six pillars and two pilasters (half-pillars) and in elevation it consists of an octagonal shaft placed over benches and back rest and topped by an inverted ghata, compressed amalaka in between two square plates, inverted stepped pyramid and finally crowned by a bracket of addorsed animal figures. The pillars support an architrave from which projects eaves relieved with a railing resting on beams and rafters.
There are 20 cells in total with varying dimensions, 7 cells in either of the side walls and 6 cells on the rear wall. The two central cells of the rear wall has been converted into one during later period and at present a Ganesha image is consecrated for worship. The verandah has six pillars and two pilasters (half-pillars) and in elevation it consists of an octagonal shaft placed over benches and back rest and topped by an inverted ghata, compressed amalaka in between two square plates, inverted stepped pyramid and finally crowned by a bracket of addorsed animal figures. The pillars support an architrave from which projects eaves relieved with a railing resting on beams and rafters.
One more chaityagrha is also located in a separate group of small caves, situated at a distance of nearly 2 km from this group.
[Text Information: Archaelogical Survey of India, photograph source : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha ]
Visit to Fort Lohagad : A Photo Travelogue
I had heard a lot of the unique fortification of Lohagad and was wanting to see it myself. Finally on 9.1.2010 , the opportunity came my way when a trip to Lohagad was actually decided upon.
Pic source: whereincity.com
Lohagad lies around fifty kilometers from Pune. It is located at the foothills of Lohagadwadi village , which is centrally located around ten kilometers between Malavali and Lonavala. It is around 3500 feet above sea level.
There are two routes to reach Lohagad (by car) from Pune. One being Pune city (Paud road)- Chandni Chowk-Pirangut-Paud village-Dudhiware Khind-Lohagadwadi. The other route is Pune city-Pune Mumbai expressway-Lonavala-Malavale-Lohagadwadi .(You can even take a road from within Lonavala directly to Lohagadwadi. This road is comparatively well maintained). We preferred the Pune Lonavala route.
We had to park our car at Lohagadwadi and tread the path up the fort on foot.
At the entrance we saw an saffron coloured board which displayed the history of the fort. A sage, Lomesh was said to have meditated here.
The fort supposedly existed since the Satavahana period (2000-2500 years back), followed by the rule of the Chalukyas, then the Rashtrakutas and the Yadavas.
Later it passed hands from the Nizamshahi of Ahmednagar (One of the Nizamshah rulers, Burhan II was imprisoned on this fort) to the Adilshahi of Bijapur, before being captured by Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj in 1648.
But Shivaji had to cede it to the Mughals vide the treaty of Purandar in 1665. Shivaji recaptured the fort in 1670 and used it for storing his treasury (the Surat loot?). The fort once again changed hands to the mughals only to be captured by Sarkhel Kanhoji Angre in 1713. Angre had apparently camped here when he had a meeting with Peshwe Balaji Vishwanath , which led to the former accepting Shahu as his king. The fort thereafter came directly under the Satara throne.
Thus the fort passed over to Chatrapati Shahu and was in the charge of his Peshwa,Balaji Vishwanath. The fort later came under the supervision of Nana Phadanvis, the erstwhile chief minister of the Peshwas (Sawai Madhavrao). He had this fort renovated. The fort was managed by his trusted aides Javji Bomble and subsequently Dhondopant Nitsure.Nana Phadavis's wife too resided in this place after his death.
The British captured the fort in 1818 after the siege of Visapur fort. The British commander Col.Prother apparently took over this fort without firing a single cannon ball. But the structures on the fort were subsequently razed to the ground by the Britishers and the fort was rendered inactive.
The initial steps are made from stone cut from the mountain itself.
One encounters many monkeys lurking around waiting expectantly for food being thrown at them by the tourists. But we were warned not to entertain them lest they follow you all the way to the fort, even attempting to snatch unguarded foodpackets from the tourists.
On the way we noticed around twenty villagers ( we were told they were from Lohagadwadi and the neighbouring Bhaje village) pulling up a giant wooden gate , apparently meant for one of the fort gates. They were chanting slogans like ‘Har Har Mahadev’ and ‘Shivaji maharaj ki jai’ as they were pulling up that giant gate up the fort steps.
One has to pass through four main gates while climbing the fort.
The first gate is Ganesh darwaza, which can be identified by a Ganesh carvings flanking the gate. One family by the name of Savale apparently offered themselves as a human sacrifice (as was the practice of those times) in return for the 'Patilki' /revenue collection-headmen rights for the village Lohagadwadi. A shilalekh in its vicinity indicates this gruesome fact.
There are three more gates viz. the Narayan darwaza (Constructed by Nana Phadanvis between 1790-94. There exists a secret tunnel where rice and foodgrains were kept for safe storage),the Maha darwaza (probably the one that can be reached by climbing a stone stairway)
and the Hanuman darwaza (which has an equally beautiful Hanuman carved on the gate). These were also constructed as per instructions by Nana Phadanvis.
On the midway, one encounters cellars which probably housed the sentries on duty (or were used as storehouses).
Midway there is also one huge cave which may have been a storehouse. Next to it is a huge water cistern.
As you look down the fort walls the pattern of the ramparts below presents a very unique design.
Down below one can also see the vast expanse of the Pawna lake adorned with the lush greenery around it.
There is also a panoramic view of the Fort Visapur which is in proximity to Lohagad. (Note, there are also many other forts in the vicinity like Tung ,Tikona,Korigad,Ghangad, etc besides the famous Buddhist caves of Bhaja,Bedse and Karla) .
After a forty five minute climb and five hundred odd steps later, we reached the top of the fort.
The fort then onwards is a plateau. The once existing structures are now in ruins.
There is an tomb, supposedly of an Arab invader, Sheikh Umar (acc. to some belonged to Aurangzebs daughter) who had occupied the fort at one point of time.This tomb has since been converted into a dargah. There are two more similar dargahs towards the right which are habitated.
One more prominent cave like structure we came across is what remains of the ‘Laxmi kothi’where the Maratha chief minister Nana Phadanvis had supposedly hidden his treasures after an attempt was made to seize them by the then Peshwa Bajirao II.
There were also two water tanks one octagonal and other hexadecagonal in shape.
There is also one Mahadev temple constructed before a seemingly ancient Shiva linga.
We also came across several small cannon barells which may have been used by the Maratha army.
There were once edifices on the fort called as Khajindar kothi,Laxmi Kothi, sadars etc which since have ceased to exist.
There were once edifices on the fort called as Khajindar kothi,Laxmi Kothi, sadars etc which since have ceased to exist.
As you go up north you see strip of land extending which takes you to the buruj (watch tower) which is the extreme end of the fort. It is almost 1500 meter by 30 meter in area and appears like a scorpions tail and is aptly called the ‘Vinchu kata’ .
The entire fort was covered in an hours time and we retraced back the path we came by.
We had lunch at the local dhaba at the foothills before bidding adieu to the fort.
Text and Photographs (except the ones credited) : Abhijit Rajadhyaksha
Bhuleshwar Temple : A Photo Feature
Bhuleshwar is a temple that is sure to leave an idelible impression on ones mind.
Known for its exquisite sculptures, the Bhuleshwar temple, is located 10kms from Yavat village and 50kms from Pune off the Pune–Solapur highway (on Yavat-Saswad road) .
The temple was constructed sometime in the thirteenth century, Yadava period . It had a fort (which was called Daulatmangal) constructed around it . This was sometime in the 17th century , and made at the behest of the Adilshahi Hindu general, Murar Jagdev ostensibly to keep a watch over the Pune region.
There are still remnants of the fort walls and ruined bastions in the vicinity.
One also sees a dilapidated mosque outside the temple premises. It was perhaps constructed by Murar Jagdev for his muslim soldiers. Afterall Murar Jagdev was a hindu general in the service of a muslim king.
Pic:samadhi of a local seer
The temple also has a mythological story woven around it. It is said that Godess Parvati seduced Lord Shiva after dancing for him in this place, before both ascended to the Kailasa mountain for the matrimony.
The temple is made in two layers. The the first layer i.e the temple wall structure which is Yadav kaalin is made from black Basalt stone, while the second layer i.e the shikhara structure is made in lime and gypsum, and was constructed during the Maratha-Peshwa period (perhaps the 18th century) as is evident from the Indo Saracenic style of shikharas which were in vogue during that period.
The spires/domes belong to the ‘nagara’ style, while the original temple is distinctly 'hemadpanthi'.
The spires are made from lime and plaster and have beautiful stucco work with detailed motifs and figurines of deities,birds,reptiles and animals.
The main dome is bulbous and ribbed with a pointed finial and is surrounded by several smaller spires. A style that has been borrowed from Islamic architecture and assimilated in time with its Hindu counterpart.
The spires are made from lime and plaster and have beautiful stucco work with detailed motifs and figurines of deities,birds,reptiles and animals.
Pic: The shikhara has figurines of Vishnu, Sharabha,Ganesha,devi etc carved on them
The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is accompanied by idols of Godess Parvati, Lord Ganesha,Nandi,Kali,Shakti,Vishnu,Saraswati,Laxmi besides a pantheon of other Hindu Gods and Godesses.
There are several dextrously carved sculptures of Apsaras/Surasundaris (celestial maidens) ,Gandharvas-Yakshas (demi gods), bhaarvahakas (on pillar capitals) adorning the walls of the temple.
Pic: Yakshas/ bhaarvaahakas adorning the mandi of the pillar and motif work on the malasthana,mala
There is the antarala joining the sabhamandapa with the garbhagriha or the sanctum sanctorum.
The sanctum houses the sacred Shiva linga, the phallic representation of Lord Shiva.
The sanctum houses the sacred Shiva linga, the phallic representation of Lord Shiva.
The doorframe of the garbhagriha is intricately carved and has some apsaras sculpted on either side of the frame's base.
In the antarala area also there are two Shivalingas. Both have a radiant Shiva face made in copper.
The mandovara or the walls of the sabhamandap and gabhara are corrugated in structure and deftly sculpted with statuetes of nymphs and other celestial beings, besides several Gods and Godesses.
There are statuetes of Parvati aai, Lord Ganesha and also a daunting sculpture of Chamundi dancing over a corpse.
Also present is a minor idol of Nandi.
The other walls have stories from the hindu epics of Ramayana and the Mahabharata etched in mural form.
Three such scenes were identifiable. The first being ‘Bharat bhet’(meeting between Ram and his brother Bharat) from Ramayana or perhaps being the scene where Arjuna confers with Lord Krishna at the Kurukshetra battlefield,
the second being the scene from Mahabharata where ‘Bheeshma pitamaha is lying wounded on the battlefield on a Sharapanjari (bed of grass) created for him by the Pandavas, who are seen attending to him’ .
Also present are murals depicting dancing elephants,Vyals (mythical lion like creatures),soldiers, chariots carved on the plinth (pitha).Then there is one figurine of Arjuna piercing the fish's eye with his arrow.One gets simply enthralled while studying them in detail.
Many of the wall sections have Apsaras or nymphs dancing , dressing up, carrying a garland that resembles a snake etc and one does get enthralled watching the variety on display .
The overhead wall panels in different sections outside the sabhamandap are particularly interesting.One such panel displays figurines of Ganesha in a female form as Ganeshi / Vinayaki (identifiable because of the trunk and also by the mouse shown as the carrier) , Shiva / Maheshwari ( in a lady form,recognised by his carrier Nandi, the bull ) and a third deity, all flanked by dragon like creatures from either side . The fire emited from the dragon forms a torana like design over the deities.There are similar panels with Vishnu (carried by a eagle-human viz.Garuda) in a feminne form as Vaishnavi,Brahma or Brahmi (carried by a swan),Kartikeya- Kartikeyani/Kaumari (carried by a peacock), Indra (Indrani) carried by his elephant Airavata, Chamundi on a corpse etc.All the Gods are shown in feminine form (a part of the Sapta or Ashta matrika / 7-8 mother goddess pantheon).The ceiling around it is exposed to the sky and one can see the lime based shikhara structure with beautiful sculptings and motifs carved over them.
One also notices minor temples, one such dedicated to Lord Vitthal-Rakhumai ( Lord Vishnu and Godess Laxmi as are worshipped locally).There is also a dark room which has a figurine of Lord Vishnu with a conch resting on the coiled Sheshanaga (multi headed serpent king), besides some aedicules with idols.
The crowds seem conspicuously absent in the temple and devotees gather here mainly during Mondays and Mahashivaratri.
Tawny eagles are said to migrate here from the north during the summers and act as a added treat for the bird watchers.
The entire temple complex is surrounded by a fortified stone wall. There are also some minor temples present in the premises .
One also notices huge stone steps that leads down to a village below.
Pic: Kurma avtar
After a visit to this temple one cant help but admire the ingenuinity of this medieval architect and his team of the most adroit artisans .
Text and Photographs: Abhijit Rajadhyaksha (except the photo credited).
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धबधबा बघून आम्ही परत निघालो कास तलाव बघायला कास तलाव बघता येतो तोही कास पठारावर न जाता... आणि शासनाने बांधलेला कास तलावाच्या ओव्हर फ्लो मधून ते पाणी अगदी आकर्षक पायऱ्यांवरून आपण वाहताना बघू शकतो...दुसरे आपण कास तलावाच्या शेजारी मनसोक्त फोटोग्राफी करू शकतो...तेथील निसर्ग व आकाशातील नयनरम्य नजारे मन मोहवून टाकतात...
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पोखरची विस्मयकारक लेणी
पोखर, सासवड जवळील नारायणपूर पासून अवघ्या ३ किमी अंतरावर असलेले हे गाव! गावात पोहोचलो तसे गावातील शाळेसमोरच्या एका छोट्या डोंगरावर ही लेणी वसली आहेत असे सांगण्यात आले. शाळेसमोरील रस्त्याने डोंगराकडे वाटचाल सुरु केली. दूरवरून पाहताना इथे लेणी आहेत अशी कल्पना सुद्धा आली नाही.
डोंगर चढायला अगदी सोपा.. ५-१० मिनिटात आम्ही चढून लेण्यांजवळ आलो.
छोट्याशा डोंगरात पोखरलेली ही लेणी. दुमजली.
खालच्या गुहेचे दोन भाग. आतला भाग गाभाऱ्या सारखा.
तिथेच दृष्टीस पडली ही मूर्ती! कोणीतरी कोरण्याचा प्रयत्न केला पण काही कारणाने ते पूर्णत्वास गेले नाही.
शेंदूर अर्चित आणि मूर्तीचे बांधकाम पूर्ण न झाल्याने तिची ओळख पटणे खरोखरच कठीण. फक्त कयास बांधला जाऊ शकतो.
मूर्ती कडे निरखून पाहिल्यास तीन मुख असणारी मूर्ती कोरण्याचा प्रयत्न केला आहे असे लक्षात येते.
घारापुरी येथील त्रिमूर्ती शिवरूप स्वरूप कोरण्याचा प्रयत्न केला आहे असे वाटते.
श्री. क्षेत्र नारायणपूर जवळच असल्याने ही मूर्ती दत्तात्रेयाची सुध्दा असू शकते असा विचार मनात येतो.
ह्या मूर्तीकडे तोंड केल्यास गाभाऱ्यातच उजवीकडे आणि डावीकडे काही प्रतिमा कोरलेल्या दिसतात. त्या नक्की काय आहेत ह्याचा अंदाज बांधणे अवघड आहे.
उजवीकडील मूर्ती
डावीकडील मूर्ती
ह्या मूर्ती रचना पाहता त्या आठव्या ते नवव्या शतकातील असाव्या असा अंदाज आहे.
वरच्या भागात चढायला किंचित कसरत करावी लागते. वरच्या भागात काही कोरीव कारागिरी नाही. शेंदूर अर्चित काही दगडी प्रतिमा आहेत.
लेणीस्थित डोंगरावरून पुरंदर आणि वज्रगडाचे दर्शन होते.
ह्या लेण्याचा मागोवा घेतल्यास काही माहिती मिळू शकते का हे पाहणे महत्वाचे आहे.
लेणी मात्र अचंबित करणारी आहेत. कोणी बांधली, का बांधली, कशाची मूर्ती कोरण्याचा हेतू होता, का अपूर्ण राहिला..इ. प्रश्न लेणी पाहल्यावर समोर येतात.
ह्या प्रश्नांना मनात घोळवतच डोंगर उतरलो.
http://www.savitakanade.com/2019/07/blog-post_17.html
पोखर गुहा – सासवड
पुरंदर किल्ल्याकडे जाणाऱ्या रस्त्याच्या अगदी उत्तरेला सासवडच्या दक्षिण-पूर्वेस 9 किमी अंतरावर पोखर गुहा बहुधा संपूर्ण महाराष्ट्रात सापडलेल्या असंख्य खडकांच्या उत्खननांपैकी सर्वात कमी ज्ञात आहे.
येथे खडकाच्या तोंडावर दोन स्वतंत्र उत्खनन केले आहेत, एक दुसऱ्याच्या वर. खालच्या उत्खननात नैसर्गिक अवकाशात कोरलेला खडबडीत दरवाजाचा समावेश आहे, ज्यामुळे एक लहान एकल कक्ष आहे. या सेलमध्ये सिंदूराने ठळकपणे कोरलेल्या अनेक देवता आहेत. दरवाजाच्या उजवीकडे, सर्वात स्पष्ट त्रिमूर्ती आहे.
उर्वरित "कोरीवकाम" काढणे अधिक कठीण आहे, ज्या प्रमाणात कोणीही सुचवू शकतो की तेथे अजिबात कोरीव काम नाही आणि प्रतिमा पूर्णपणे सिंदूर वापरून तयार केल्या गेल्या आहेत.
वरच्या उत्खननात व्हरांडाचा समावेश आहे, जवळजवळ पूर्णपणे नैसर्गिक, भिंतींमध्ये अनेक लहान उथळ कोनाडे कापलेले आहेत. या वरच्या स्तरावर प्रवेश करणे काही खडबडीत पायऱ्यांद्वारे आहे, जे लक्षणीयरीत्या हवामानामुळे आणि वनस्पतींनी जास्त वाढलेले आहे. गुहेच्या समोर एक अर्धवट उध्वस्त झालेली भिंत आहे जी एक रेक्टलीनियर एनक्लोजर बनवते.
पोखर गुंफा डेटिंग करणे दुर्दैवाने जवळजवळ अशक्य आहे लेणी स्थापत्यशास्त्रासाठी कोणतेही शिलालेख नसल्यामुळे. खालच्या सिंगल सेलच्या आतील भागाचे उग्र स्वरूप असे सुचवू शकते की हे संभाव्यतः बौद्ध मूळचे आहे, परंतु पूर्ण होण्याआधी ते सोडण्यात आले होते. कदाचित खडकात सापडलेल्या फ्रॅक्चरमुळे गुहा उत्खनन सुरू ठेवण्यापासून रोखले गेले.
जर तुम्हाला ही ब्लॉग पोस्ट आवडली असेल तर कृपया 'लाइक' करा किंवा टिप्पणी जोडा. आपण कोणत्याही नवीन सामग्रीबद्दल सूचित करू इच्छित असल्यास, फक्त 'फॉलो' बटणावर क्लिक करून साइन अप करा. तुम्ही माझ्या या किंवा इतर कोणत्याही पोस्टचा आनंद घेतल्यास, कृपया मला कॉफी विकत घेण्याचा विचार करा. डेस्कटॉप वापरकर्त्यांसाठी या वेबसाइटच्या उजव्या बाजूला आणि मोबाइल वापरकर्त्यांसाठी टिप्पणी विभागाच्या अगदी वरची सोय आहे. धन्यवाद !
तुम्हाला माझे कोणतेही फोटोग्राफी किंवा लेख वापरण्यात स्वारस्य असल्यास कृपया संपर्क साधा. मी जगभरातील कोणत्याही फ्रीलान्स कामासाठी देखील उपलब्ध आहे, माझी डफेल बॅग नेहमी जाण्यासाठी तयार असते...
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